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Thanks!

in fl cbs uses rebar pored in the slab , but i like to see something like a 3-4 inch each side t even the alternatives are still straight shafts now i do know good engineering should have tests proving the claims by makers , i might like a combo of some j or l plus some drilled in if in hurricane or tornado areas although i would only build filled block or poured concrete in the tornado ally plus a shelter

You'll need between 2500 to 3,000 pounds of force to pull out a 1/2-inch diameter J-bolt embedded 6 inches in 4000 psi concrete. With around 30 of these bolts in a typical 2000 square foot house, that means you'll need 90,000 pounds of force or wind at 150 MPH.

my double wide mobile home withstood hurricane Michael a category 5 hurricane and we had a heavy duty metal roof installed which with stood an EF 2 tornado that cam over it. It has 2 x 2 trusses on 16 inch centers and 5 1/2 studs. An impact knocked out two studs in the main bathroom. All the old siding had holes everywhere. the manufacturer did not use house wrap...that should be illegal. windows were single pain which should have been illegal. There are some corners that just should not be skipped over to save money.

Excellent explanation. Thank you 🙏

Where’s the data?

Benjamin Banneker wasn’t no slave. Descendant of the original black Europeans that founded the 13 black colonies. The white Irish were slaves up until the American revolution.

This was the most informative construction video I've seen. Loved this info! Thank you

What if it's just for a shed

This would never fly in a seismic zone . the codes would not allow it

I was out with some friends in Houston and we drove by a new housing area, the Philipinos I was with were shocked we built with wood,, they build (smaller) with concrete blocks due to all of the storms they get. they lift the better furniture up off the ground and go 'take cover',, when they return after the storm the power wash the floor (also made of concrete) put the furniture down and go about their lives. I have been thru a lot of hurricanes and tornados. in hurricane zones they use hurricane straps on every exterior board to the seal plate and rafter. tornado zones should do the same. if you notice 'hurricane proof homes' are curved outside the home.. a lot like your car,, the wind rolls past and many of those homes are made of a styrofoam!! now of course we would want something more than styrofoam to protect us from flying boards, but you can curve plywood.. or build igloo style.

You are so educational and adorable. I really appreciate you.

You can just chill in a rebar on sideways on an angle like 20° or so fill it with some grout or some Hilti head epoxy put it in there and then well then that's something on the end of it to hold your post down that's just as strong as an anchor bolt going straight down relying on that little edge I think it's even stronger it's like alligator nailing

As an Ironworker, L&J bolts cast in concrete at the safest to set on. Epoxy needs a pull test and can't be trusted unless they have it done.

Epoxy is great stuff. Honest i would have though the J-bolt would be harder to pull out than threaded rod with epoxy.

No fukn way are those anchor alternatives superior to the J bolt.

Are you kidding? You should use exactly what the architect and/or engineer specifies. And your test??? Are you kidding about that also? For testing...You should use a deep enough anchor so the anchor itself breaks...NOT the concrete.. THen you know what it will really hold. We have put 1" threaded rod down 36 inches into a footing with 4 inch plate washers at the bottom... What is that good for????30 tons of uplift? Sure,..I'm sure I'm just a fluke and haven't read any plans (that I am involved with) where they do not specify J bolts...or fairly long allthreads with washers. If you look up on the simpson website,..you can see EXACTLY how much a 1/2 inch J bold embedded 9 inches (underneath the top rebar) will hold. Nice click bait,..that's all I can say. I have never seen a post installed anchor allowed on a bearing wall.. And it will never happen on any job I am on. Post installed anchors happen,..and they are usually allthread embedded into concrete using structural epoxy,..and they have roughly the same strength as cast in place j bolt anchors...if they are the same length.

well...seems a "tornado-resistant" ROOM would be, you know...AFFORDABLE. And, better-suited to Designs that most-folks would actually PAY-for to Own. Say...Jay, do YOU live in such a structure, hmmmmmmm??? :-)))

Thank You for sharing this valuable information , and the work you put into this well done video production. it is still helping the public stay safer two years now. I am building in Florida and plan to use these methods . You are a credit to your country and your parents who raised you.

make the L longer ....it will work wayy better....perhaps i should say wider.. More "__" ratio to the" | " so its CAPITAL "L" shape literally think about how much more down force it can have in the concrete with more Parallel Force ....IJS

HUH!

That's crazy!

dude makes no sense, he had that bolt in inch of crete for his dumb jig, if instaling a hook into concrete is complicated for you then that's not the industry for ya. Those expansion bolts will crack concrete and still not provide the strength nesesary, the screws with glue are useless come on bro, most of those epoxies are not even made for harsh climates...

As a contractor of 20 years specializing in excavation and foundation retrofitting, I STRONGLY disagree. Do not let your contractor use post installed anchors unless a mistake was made. ONLY when a mistake is made should a post installed anchor be used. I don’t doubt that calculations on paper show post installed anchors being similarly as strong as cast in place, but those calculations certainly don’t take into consideration all of the factors, like horizontal rebar being embedded above J bolts, weakening of concrete with micro cracks from drilling holes, greater moisture intrusions, removal of galvanized material from post installed anchors, etc.

Build underground, or steel rebar re-enforced concrete dome. The main problem is wind pushing against a flat wall.

haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.... that's YT-for ya's!!

Add skylights that would suck out or open when the pressure changes

ICFs would be quicker, cheaper, and more practical.

Sorry to see so few views on this video. These kinds of introspective retrospectives are valuable for people; I’m in my mid sixties and still enjoy the messages. I appreciate your insight and humility.

If you want a tornado proof home Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to to 25" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof non toxic and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Take care Ray

Sir, I have been building for 60 years, dyna bolts regulrly fail, scew in anchors great for hold down or temporary formwork fix to adjoining concrete, rag bolts have stood the test of time in low stress engineered situations. This sounds like more white board commission for DEI academics have now got hold of the construction industry. Start using Ramset concrete insert bolts where you can run a continuous line of deformed rebar through them that integrates with the cocrete and rebar design. Heavens help the construction industry with this level of wooly thinking, talk about engineering loadings what we have going on here are mutational loadings . Welcome to the harsh roadmap of reality! KPP nz

J bolts which are wired to and hook on a horizontal rebar before the pour do not pull out. Rebar threading is also a good option which is used where I live in California.

As a builder who has used j-bolts for 50 years, I can attest to their effectiveness. Over-engineering is a problem. Please stop.

Instead of building the whole house like a safe room, couldn't you just build a safe room as a usable space and build the rest so that it doesn't blow away, but you just patch holes? You'll be replacing windows anyway. So build it for the wind forces, not debris per se. That red area has to deal with a lot of water and hail that comes with the thunderstorms that create the tornadoes, but at the same time it's hot and dry in the summer, so maybe v2 can be fire resistant too? Use metal roofs, fiber cement siding and Rockwool insulation. Because temperatures can be extreme, maybe also make it energy efficient so you can survive a few days without power. Oh, and make it affordable 😂

Shame on you! So much misrepresentation in this video! You falsified the 'J/L Bolt Flaw' video. In your video @1:24 that is NOT a J/L bolt failing!!! You stole that video from someone else! And it's a wedge anchor failing! Here is the original video ruclips.net/video/LBe4okYOvyA/видео.html You used that video to imply it was a J/L failure. If you're using someone else's video you should be crediting them. Not passing it off as your (false) test.

Idea is clear, but it is misleading. L and J anchors function differently and they are installed differently Apple and potatoes, no real solution.

In norway we build houses with alot of reinforcwd concrete

Hello Jay Garth, My name is Jake, and I am a builder in South Korea. Your content is highly advanced and offers a lot to learn. I sincerely thank you for creating such excellent content. In Korea, houses are often built with reinforced concrete (RC). This is because we have many cement factories, and we are very proficient in manufacturing rebar, making it cheaper than in the U.S. Moreover, the small size of our country makes transportation easy. As a result, unlike in the U.S., we have well-established education, laws, and regulations regarding reinforced concrete. However, this is not the case for timber structures. The situation is the opposite in Korea compared to the U.S. Therefore, your engineering content on timber structures is incredibly valuable and precious here in Korea. I would like to introduce your channel's content in Korean on my RUclips channel. I am seeking your permission to do so.

This is how they build houses in Mexico

Used to think about building a dome home, but wasn’t sure how to maintain it and keep it from leaking. Maybe time to reconsider.

If I may. Engineers and Scientists tend to overthink things. Even if you build a modern house with 12inch ICF blocks and tied in the Mono-poured roof with rebar from the walls, you will still have windows and doors. The pressure differential of an EF4/EF5 is enough to render the occupants of such a structure uncomfortable to say the least. One would be wise to just build their house to local code, then excavate a 10x10 storm shelter using IFC, CMU, ect. Purpose built storm shelters not only provide TRUE protection against EF5 tornados, but they are also much more affordable/ accessible to the average American. Nothing new. Just my redneck perspective on the topic.

Love this concept! I hope it's been tested since. I'd rather have a small home with this kind of structure any day over a larger standard one.

Great video! Thank you for sharing. Spray foam for attic insulation is like glue.

I'm very sceptical to the claim that titatan or redhead could be stonger than j bolts .more convenient yes stronger hell no

I'm a mechanical engineer, building my own home. I used L bolts as called out by the structural engineer, but upgraded to galvanized for a few extra bucks. In a few locations we needed additional bolts such as around doorways so we installed Titen bolts (screw anchors) in those locations. I loved using the Titan bolts and they were very easy to install. The concern I have is the design heavily relies on the integrity of the thread. It seems as if the thread would be the weak link over time as the thread corrodes and rusts. The thread is fairly thin so it feels as if it could decay relatively fast. I would suspect the galvanized layer is also somewhat compromised as the threads are twisted into the abrasive concrete. I wonder what kind of life span these bolts have been tested to.

When I built my garage I did the j bolts on the block. However, I think both are fine, they both prevent uplift but at some point if the force it to much then both ultimately fail. It’s still better than nothing on the sill.

65 years in the trades = This subject, and this presentation, is in my case amusing. Not to dwell on that, let me point out the obvious. Contractors are aware of the choices. DIYers don't often get involved with projects that require them. Engineers wet themselves when you get technical, hence my amusement. See below!

I think we have to start thinking out of the box.

Hello, this sounds I guess sort of simplistic or unrealistic, but why can't the house have a roof that extends down to the ground in case of high winds or have the home partially descend into the ground in case a tornado is coming? Is this totally impractical? I wonder

Good video! Another reason to be a Garth fan!😂