Good video; gave me some insight regarding one of the screw placements that kept me from separating the housing itself. What would have been "most useful" is to indicate what screws were phillips and the others being a Torx driver. The phillip screws that attach the housing to the tank were obvious, the others were not; especially when removing the cover around the gauges (T10) and the screw doesn't actually come out, but simply allows the cover to slip off. The others were T20. My problem was that I accidentally pulled the power cord out and needed to re-attach. Additionally, one of the T20 screws needs a longer driver to reach the screw head. The size of the hole where the screw was located prevented me from using attachments (socket driver) with a T20 bit; I had to go purchase a longer set. On the plus side, I gained a new reason to buy more tools ; )
Great video! I'll admit I thought it was going to be another one of those long intros, with meandering music and 1990s transitions between every shot. That's certainly NOT the case I'm happy to report. This video is well shot and edited, straight to the point and very informative. Your efforts on making it easy to understand have not gone unnoticed. Seriously thank you, I have the confidence now, I should be able to tackle it. Probably only take about 6 hours. Max 6½
It can be from the two air host quick connects, the drain valve, the hose that is clamped from the pump to the tank. The only thing left is this part in the video. you can put soapy water on the hose ends and you can place your finger over the drain valve and air hose connects. If you see bubble or feel any pressure building up under your finger when place over these other openings then you know.
Hi appreciate the video I had a different internal issue but the video was a good assist in removal and getting internal. After reassembly and test the HP hose from the tank to the regulator was very hot to the touch. Can you tell me why that may be ?
Great tutorial but I suspect this was demonstrated with a new compressor because the gasket wasn't "welded" to the cylinder head like mine was. Getting the remnant of the old one took about 10 minutes. So if you're going to attempt a fix of this seal make sure you order a new gasket. Uodate: the leak turned out not to be from the tube seal. I probably should've tried pinpointing the leak with soapy water. When I did that I found 2 leaks. One from a loose clamp on the rubber hose and the other from the bottom of the piston cylinder. Air in getting past the piston and coming out the bottom. Not alot but enough to empty the tank in about a half hour. Now the suspects are the check valve or valve plate at the top of the cylinder. Unit has very few hours on it.
I'm not sure this is my problem. Tank will fill to only about 50psi and never shuts off. It will hold this pressure so I know there is not a leak. Do you think it is this seal that you're replacing? Thanks for the help.
I have air leaking out of the round hole in the middle left of the cylinder head directly above the tube (as seen around 3:37 minute mark). Will this tube seal fix this or is my issue elsewhere? There is little to know air coming out around where tube goes into motor.
So after doing research the hole in the head is there on purpose. The cause of air leaking there is the check valve on the tank has failed. So just to follow up, I took out my check valve (its connected to the tank), I then cleaned it using WD40 then sprayed it with penetrating oil. I then stuck a pick down the narrow hole cylinder of the check valve, the valve should open when you press down on it. Rust was stopping mine. After lubricating and cleaning it, its back to normal. No need to get a new valve just clean your old one, instructions in porter cable manual say to use varnish or paint remover to clean. Reassemble using new clamp and red locate, back to work. www.ereplacementparts.com/cylinder-head-p-62827.html www.about-air-compressors.com/porter-cable-air-compressor-has-leaking-air.html#submission_29718839
Chvydrptop, thank you for the reply. I finally came to the same conclusion after taking the entire compressor apart for no reason. Oh well, how better to learn, right? I bought a new check valve off ebay and it leaked worse than the one I had, so I sent it back and tried cleaning mine up and it started working again, although it still leaks some. I already bought another new one, but I may try doing a more thorough cleaning of my existing one and applying some new thread sealant. Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
Great that you show how to do it. Now what symptoms does this fix? lol How do I know if mine is bad or if my issues are related at all to the tube seal?
Nice tutorial, but that’s not a Nut Driver. What size hex driver did you use and how long is it? My standard Allen wrench could not reach the depth it’s placed at.
If you're looking for other parts, you can simply enter the part number at www.fix.com/ or enter your model number and search through for the part you need!
Went to replace the gaskets and tube seal. Unbolted the cylinder head and the plate won’t come off the piston. It seems like it’s mounted on there, and the gaskets are paper and are permanently adhered to the metal so I can’t replace the gaskets unless I scrape it all off. Am I doing something wrong here? How the hell do I get the cylinder plate off the piston?
My porter cable 17 gallon compressor lasted about 9 years (barely used in that time, maybe 3 years regular use). The motor bearing recently wore out to the point where the bearings fell all over the place, real shame the parts are ALL PRESSED INTO PLACE. The motor shaft was moving around so violently it was actually jamming the compressor piston. Don't let those "maintenance free" stickers fool you, all that means is "If anything breaks, throw it out, cant fix anything". New stuff is all total junk once anything fails. Such as shame. I'm buying an exposed compressor next, nice large belt, 240v motor, even hand crank if needed so i can see all of the internals :)
What's the function of this seal? People are looking for solutions to their own compressor problems. I have no idea why are you replacing this seal. Is it because the tank won't pressurize to 150psi - like it stalls at 120psi?? Describe the symptom so we know why you are changing this seal out.
And in order to get that third star screw out of the right side of the case to take the case apart (2:15) you must have a driver that fits in the small hole and at least six inches long to reach inside to contact the star screw. I had to go buy a long star driver that will only ever have one useful purpose.
You blocked the tool you used to take off the gage cover with your hand! That's what I wanted to know, looks like it may have been an Allen, will try...
WARNING !!! Inch pounds and foot pounds when mixed up can cause you to strip out a screw easily! My torque wrench is foot pounds. So I set it at 50. 50 inch pounds is 4.17 FOOT pounds. Check my info yourself.
your problem maybe in the piston and cylinder which compresses the air. The same happened to a DeWalt compressor I fixed and that was the issue. I'm currently trying to figure out what is the problem with a Porter Cable Pancake compressor I'm working on, and I think that's also the problem.
My question too - my old PC compressor started hissing air out from inside the shroud when it got worked hard. Do I need a nickles worth of rubber to fix it?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
It's obvious to me that you truly know how to work on this compressor. Well done, and carry on!!
Good video; gave me some insight regarding one of the screw placements that kept me from separating the housing itself. What would have been "most useful" is to indicate what screws were phillips and the others being a Torx driver. The phillip screws that attach the housing to the tank were obvious, the others were not; especially when removing the cover around the gauges (T10) and the screw doesn't actually come out, but simply allows the cover to slip off. The others were T20. My problem was that I accidentally pulled the power cord out and needed to re-attach. Additionally, one of the T20 screws needs a longer driver to reach the screw head. The size of the hole where the screw was located prevented me from using attachments (socket driver) with a T20 bit; I had to go purchase a longer set. On the plus side, I gained a new reason to buy more tools ; )
Great video! I'll admit I thought it was going to be another one of those long intros, with meandering music and 1990s transitions between every shot.
That's certainly NOT the case I'm happy to report.
This video is well shot and edited, straight to the point and very informative. Your efforts on making it easy to understand have not gone unnoticed. Seriously thank you, I have the confidence now, I should be able to tackle it. Probably only take about 6 hours. Max 6½
Thanks for watching, Brett!
Thx, jagoff at work pulled my plug wire out yesterday and I’ve been going nuts trying to figure out the wiring.
It would help if you let us know if it's a Phillips or flathead seeing that it's hard to see for us blind people down that little black hole
Some are t15 some are Phillips , common sense would say it is not a flathead
How do I determine where exactly the air leak is coming from. On mine I can only tell that it’s coming from under the shroud?
It can be from the two air host quick connects, the drain valve, the hose that is clamped from the pump to the tank. The only thing left is this part in the video. you can put soapy water on the hose ends and you can place your finger over the drain valve and air hose connects. If you see bubble or feel any pressure building up under your finger when place over these other openings then you know.
Hi appreciate the video I had a different internal issue but the video was a good assist in removal and getting internal. After reassembly and test the HP hose from the tank to the regulator was very hot to the touch. Can you tell me why that may be ?
My porter cable compressor, smells like burnt plastic,and doesn't turn on..any idea what's the issue?.thanks for the help
Should the head gasket and cylinder head easily separate from the cylinder after removing the bolts? Or should i have to pry it apart?
Great tutorial but I suspect this was demonstrated with a new compressor because the gasket wasn't "welded" to the cylinder head like mine was. Getting the remnant of the old one took about 10 minutes. So if you're going to attempt a fix of this seal make sure you order a new gasket.
Uodate: the leak turned out not to be from the tube seal. I probably should've tried pinpointing the leak with soapy water. When I did that I found 2 leaks. One from a loose clamp on the rubber hose and the other from the bottom of the piston cylinder. Air in getting past the piston and coming out the bottom. Not alot but enough to empty the tank in about a half hour. Now the suspects are the check valve or valve plate at the top of the cylinder. Unit has very few hours on it.
im glad i get to read this before i start digging in my pancake.... tanks for the info
I'm not sure this is my problem. Tank will fill to only about 50psi and never shuts off. It will hold this pressure so I know there is not a leak. Do you think it is this seal that you're replacing? Thanks for the help.
Torx 20 to remove the manifold cover
Hola donde consigo los gasques y esa pieza que xmbiastes
It’s a great video but lacks the tool sizes. Had to scroll and look for them.
I have air leaking out of the round hole in the middle left of the cylinder head directly above the tube (as seen around 3:37 minute mark). Will this tube seal fix this or is my issue elsewhere? There is little to know air coming out around where tube goes into motor.
So after doing research the hole in the head is there on purpose. The cause of air leaking there is the check valve on the tank has failed. So just to follow up, I took out my check valve (its connected to the tank), I then cleaned it using WD40 then sprayed it with penetrating oil. I then stuck a pick down the narrow hole cylinder of the check valve, the valve should open when you press down on it. Rust was stopping mine. After lubricating and cleaning it, its back to normal. No need to get a new valve just clean your old one, instructions in porter cable manual say to use varnish or paint remover to clean. Reassemble using new clamp and red locate, back to work.
www.ereplacementparts.com/cylinder-head-p-62827.html
www.about-air-compressors.com/porter-cable-air-compressor-has-leaking-air.html#submission_29718839
Chvydrptop, thank you for the reply. I finally came to the same conclusion after taking the entire compressor apart for no reason. Oh well, how better to learn, right? I bought a new check valve off ebay and it leaked worse than the one I had, so I sent it back and tried cleaning mine up and it started working again, although it still leaks some. I already bought another new one, but I may try doing a more thorough cleaning of my existing one and applying some new thread sealant. Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
Great job to get to spending online $2.99 for a gasket, instead of $269 + tax. Presentation was fantastic for a retired banker
Hi, what size Allen wrench do I need to take off the manifold housing?
looks like square head I going to try 3 or4 mm key stock
it’s torx bolts
I just cut it with my multi tool.
Great that you show how to do it. Now what symptoms does this fix? lol How do I know if mine is bad or if my issues are related at all to the tube seal?
After removing the motor, if you find that the tube is not firmly attached, wiggles, the tube gasket should be the culprit.
Did he say to tighten the manifold cover bolts to 49-55 inch-pounds? They don't seem tight, or as tight as when I removed them initially.
😊 will you get parts for the compressor
Where I can buy this tube seal??
My compressor has a leak where would the leak come from
Nice tutorial, but that’s not a Nut Driver. What size hex driver did you use and how long is it? My standard Allen wrench could not reach the depth it’s placed at.
I ground down an old long, 5”, slot screw driver. I used an already removed T20 screw to get the best fit.
Como canbiar la vanda del conpresor
Hey great video. Where can I get parts
Hi Jeffrey, you can find this part on our website: www.fix.com/parts/compressor/porter-cable/fix10049061/tube-seal-n044359/
If you're looking for other parts, you can simply enter the part number at www.fix.com/ or enter your model number and search through for the part you need!
Something that isn't discussed enough is the bladder in a pancake compressor and when it blows why a person hears what sounds like sand in the tank?
Went to replace the gaskets and tube seal. Unbolted the cylinder head and the plate won’t come off the piston. It seems like it’s mounted on there, and the gaskets are paper and are permanently adhered to the metal so I can’t replace the gaskets unless I scrape it all off. Am I doing something wrong here? How the hell do I get the cylinder plate off the piston?
Una pregunta el sello del piston lo venden se cambia solo o se cambia todo el piston
oye mi compresor no para de trabajar será ese switch
Hola hizo el cambio puede compartir su experiencia por favor
What were the signs of a failed tube seal?
My porter cable 17 gallon compressor lasted about 9 years (barely used in that time, maybe 3 years regular use). The motor bearing recently wore out to the point where the bearings fell all over the place, real shame the parts are ALL PRESSED INTO PLACE. The motor shaft was moving around so violently it was actually jamming the compressor piston.
Don't let those "maintenance free" stickers fool you, all that means is "If anything breaks, throw it out, cant fix anything".
New stuff is all total junk once anything fails. Such as shame.
I'm buying an exposed compressor next, nice large belt, 240v motor, even hand crank if needed so i can see all of the internals :)
What's the function of this seal? People are looking for solutions to their own compressor problems. I have no idea why are you replacing this seal. Is it because the tank won't pressurize to 150psi - like it stalls at 120psi?? Describe the symptom so we know why you are changing this seal out.
Still no replies. I guess this video is useless.
And in order to get that third star screw out of the right side of the case to take the case apart (2:15) you must have a driver that fits in the small hole and at least six inches long to reach inside to contact the star screw. I had to go buy a long star driver that will only ever have one useful purpose.
You blocked the tool you used to take off the gage cover with your hand! That's what I wanted to know, looks like it may have been an Allen, will try...
They are most likely Star Bolts (Torx), not Hex
WARNING !!! Inch pounds and foot pounds when mixed up can cause you to strip out a screw easily! My torque wrench is foot pounds. So I set it at 50. 50 inch pounds is 4.17 FOOT pounds. Check my info yourself.
Got one brand new ,out of the box .Plugged it in won't even turn on.
Where can i buy those parts
www.partswarehouse.com/Tools/PorterCable
FYTI,,, you can do this job without taking off any wires.
I changed the belt on my porter cable 6gl pancake compressor it still will not build pressure any Idea's
your problem maybe in the piston and cylinder which compresses the air. The same happened to a DeWalt compressor I fixed and that was the issue. I'm currently trying to figure out what is the problem with a Porter Cable Pancake compressor I'm working on, and I think that's also the problem.
What are the common symptoms of a bad tube seal?
Hi, because of the heat that builds up around the tube seal, this will cause the seal to wear and start to leak air eventually.
My question too - my old PC compressor started hissing air out from inside the shroud when it got worked hard. Do I need a nickles worth of rubber to fix it?
How hard is it to tell us what size drivers you used to remove the screws? I moved on to another video.
I see you dont reply but thank you
The new Porter Cable sure has a lot of problems.
Any extra bolts lol
Nice screw driver :)
Step 1- Throw it out
Step 2- Buy a new one from amazon while watching a movie at night
ROFL
T10 / T15
Lu7p
My porter cable smells
I came for the black wire idk were it goes its the only thing you left out fucking great !