I just started at a new company and I never had to use a trow ball much at my old job where we just spiked everything. These video's are really helping me adjust. I always get stuck on twigs all the time and it very time consuming especially in locust trees.
Was testing a new descender today and I tossed my weight bag into the tree and it landed right on top of the branch I wanted to get over. I "threw the loop" and it just popped the weight over the other side. My son looked away me like I had just performed some kind of black magic. That's one of the most useful tricks I've learned over the years when working with ropes.
Thanks! Your videos are great, I'd love to hear your take on srt in conifers, especially fir, with canopies that start 6o' up, and snappy branches... Techniques and branch diameter minimums...
Fir branches can be very snappy and I like to get the line close to the stem and over two branches heading out at angles to each other. Cedars with their down sloping branches are sneaky, higher is often better and sometimes base tied to a tree off to the side giving a more favourable angle.
@@neild7971 Thanks! All advice is highly appreciated. I'm climbing the occasional 100' fir, mostly spindly little ones with few or no lateral branches and no larger trees nearby, which sometimes can't be felled from the ground.. I am removing the firs on our property to stop conifer encroachment and regain oak woodland habitat. I spike up with a flipline and a climb line/quickie/SRT cinching the trunk, when I can, I put a base anchor and life line overhead, or just cinch up on the spar on the lowest branch I can isolate the stem with... Getting the line right up against the stem can be hard. A canopy anchor and cinching the spar along with a few branches is another trick I've seen. I'm curious about how to spread out SRT basal anchor loads in fir trees, and what other folks feel is too small a diameter of healthy fir branch to rely on.
Sounds like the kind you would want to pull the rope around flipping over branches and pull a cinched anchor around the stem. I’d probably wear spikes and use them to progress above that point
Personally, I've found that when pulling the throw ball through the canopy to isolate a crotch, its beneficial to let it run when you feel the release of pressure from pulling against small branches. The reason to let it run is it makes it far less likely to wrap around a branch, then your only option is to rip it off if possible, or retrieve that throw ball when you're in the tree. The sudden stop created by continuing to pull creates a pendulum swing, and when the line hits a branch while the ball is swinging, it tends to wrap around said branch. Letting it run prevents this.
How about with a conifer? How would you set a canopy anchor in a douglas fir tree? I just saw a Richard Mumford video where he's showing moving between trees - he did something with this throwline and weight and retrieved it horizontally....no explanation, and comments disabled. Do you know what I'm referring to?
You can go over a lot of branches and then just use a dog snap or a shizll to set your line, you don’t need to do double bagging or pull your throw line with another throw ball at the end.
Thank you, the throwing a loop trick really helped me out! Now my Dad and I will be able to set our rope in a tree easier.
Glad it helped ! If you get good at that it’ll make you look like a rope wizard
I just started at a new company and I never had to use a trow ball much at my old job where we just spiked everything. These video's are really helping me adjust. I always get stuck on twigs all the time and it very time consuming especially in locust trees.
Great line and throwline workflow tips...Thank You Tree Cowboy...!
Thanks glad you found them useful :)
Thank you, your videos are very useful.
Glad to hear it !
Very helpful, really enjoying your videos, thank you ☺️ 👍🏼
Glad to hear it, thanks 🙏🏽
Thanks for the helpful tips.
Was testing a new descender today and I tossed my weight bag into the tree and it landed right on top of the branch I wanted to get over. I "threw the loop" and it just popped the weight over the other side. My son looked away me like I had just performed some kind of black magic. That's one of the most useful tricks I've learned over the years when working with ropes.
Thanks! Your videos are great, I'd love to hear your take on srt in conifers, especially fir, with canopies that start 6o' up, and snappy branches... Techniques and branch diameter minimums...
If in doubt I use the line ‘as my spikes’ and flip line up
I like to pull my line in on the first reasonable shot but continue throwing for the optimum spot a few more goes if needed
Fir branches can be very snappy and I like to get the line close to the stem and over two branches heading out at angles to each other. Cedars with their down sloping branches are sneaky, higher is often better and sometimes base tied to a tree off to the side giving a more favourable angle.
@@neild7971 Thanks!
All advice is highly appreciated.
I'm climbing the occasional 100' fir, mostly spindly little ones with few or no lateral branches and no larger trees nearby, which sometimes can't be felled from the ground.. I am removing the firs on our property to stop conifer encroachment and regain oak woodland habitat.
I spike up with a flipline and a climb line/quickie/SRT cinching the trunk, when I can, I put a base anchor and life line overhead, or just cinch up on the spar on the lowest branch I can isolate the stem with...
Getting the line right up against the stem can be hard.
A canopy anchor and cinching the spar along with a few branches is another trick I've seen.
I'm curious about how to spread out SRT basal anchor loads in fir trees, and what other folks feel is too small a diameter of healthy fir branch to rely on.
Sounds like the kind you would want to pull the rope around flipping over branches and pull a cinched anchor around the stem. I’d probably wear spikes and use them to progress above that point
Thanks for the video!
Lead teardrop fishing weights, they come in 1/2 up to about 7 ounce , they are cheap and a lot more " ballistic" than tree weights 😉
Throwballs are 10-16 ounces, and soft by design to minimize damage in case of a missed throw.
Personally, I've found that when pulling the throw ball through the canopy to isolate a crotch, its beneficial to let it run when you feel the release of pressure from pulling against small branches. The reason to let it run is it makes it far less likely to wrap around a branch, then your only option is to rip it off if possible, or retrieve that throw ball when you're in the tree.
The sudden stop created by continuing to pull creates a pendulum swing, and when the line hits a branch while the ball is swinging, it tends to wrap around said branch. Letting it run prevents this.
How about with a conifer? How would you set a canopy anchor in a douglas fir tree?
I just saw a Richard Mumford video where he's showing moving between trees - he did something with this throwline and weight and retrieved it horizontally....no explanation, and comments disabled. Do you know what I'm referring to?
You can go over a lot of branches and then just use a dog snap or a shizll to set your line, you don’t need to do double bagging or pull your throw line with another throw ball at the end.
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Could we have a spur comparison maybe?
I recorded that today just for you :) keep an eye out I’ll likely publish that episode in April!
Attaching small stick to climb line gives stronger looping action to get the rope back in the crotch.
Yes 👍🏼 I will do that on occasion, especially if the crotch in question is 100’ away
parametric resonance
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Still, or have you tried it out since.