This is exceptionally useful information. Just the tip with the guide on the left (looking at the engine from the camera's direction) could literally save someone's build. I've been researching this procedure for a while now, and no one had mentioned it. Nicely done, thank you !
Thank you. I created the video because I couldn't find much information myself. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, I am glad you found it helpful
@@GregoryEsman Thanks buddy. We need to do our best to preserve these modern classics for the next generation. E38 and E39 are 2 of my favourite BMWs ever made. Is your a 7series or 5 series?
@@TheKeenMechanic Agreed :) Ugh, I can't wait until I'm done this study period so I can start working on my car. I'm literally craaawling putting a guide together for myself. It's so tedious, but I'm learning lots. I would love to experience an E38. Mine is the '03 540i :)
@@GregoryEsman Cool, you are lucky to get one of the last 540i production year. I have E39 530i facelift 2001, 535i 2000 and a diesel 525d. My 740i is a very rare model with ACC active cruise control with double glazed windows, seat massage and other cool extras. Best of luck and keep in touch. As we speak I am about to start the assembly of my restored upper sump and gasket replacement, so I absolutely love working on these M62s. Speak soon
Hello. Really enjoy your BMW DIY videos. Thanks for putting many together. I have a question, I started doing my chain guides on my 2000 540i M62TU ordered all the parts need including the timing tools. I got the new guides on (I just replace the main guided not the shoe guides on top) and the timing tool tensioner. I didn't touch Vanos sprockets throughout the process because I was just replacing the main guides. At that point I decide to remove the cam locks and crank pin to hand rotate the engine to check my work and it skipped tooth smh. Causing the driver side cams to rotate, but not the passenger side. My question. Is there an easy way to fix this? I rotated back to top dead, But the cams on both sides are clearly not positioned correctly. Any help would be graciously accepted. Thanks again
Hi and thanks for watching my video. Please check these 2 videos first if you haven't done it at this point. This will help you unserstand the timing system a bit better ruclips.net/video/PD07qYztc4Q/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/doedbdqOzRM/видео.html Don't worry, you can loosen or remove the timing chains and then make sure the timing tools are properly alligned and perfectly fit in place, then you can install your chains back in place. The intake cams will have some resistance when adjusting because of the vanos system and you will need to use a spanner as shown in the vidoes or torx bit at the front to align in place. Don't worry, just make sure everything is in place before you install the chains and remember to put a cable/zip tie on the bank 1 tensioning chain tensioner to hold tight in place so chain is under a bit of tension before turning by hand. As long as everything fits in place and all marks align you will have no problem with the timing. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic So when I get to the chain removal part. remove the primary and secondary (cam chain) then realign each cam separate to fit in the locking blocks? And I need to do this for each bay. Thanks again
@@davis2920 I wouldn't touch the small chains on the camshafts if nithing jumped there. They should be under normal tension from their tensioners and they shouldn't jump unless your sprockets are badly worn which I have never seen before on the M62TU or chain is stretched which would be very unusual. I guess you are talking about the main long chain that turns the camshafts and the crankshaft together?
@@TheKeenMechanic No I was talking about the camshafts chain, but reading your response it appears I don't need to touch that chain to realign the camshafts? Just realign with the main chain off then lock them in-place with the block?
@@davis2920 Yes, if you can manage to lock both banks with the blocks without forcing anything too much and then lock crankshaft if not already locked and install the long chain, cable tie in place if you are not using the tensioning tool from the timing kit and everything should align. Please do it gently and don't use force. When you have tension on the chain with the zip tie then you can try to rotate a few times to see if everything will align in place. It is best if you remove the spark plugs to have a better feel and no resistance due to cylinder compression
I didn’t mark the chain and units before I removed the vanos units chains and the tensioners, is that an issue? Also would it bend valves if the cam jumped independently while at tdc with the pin in the flywheel?
Hi Kolten. This engine is an interference type engine and if your cams are not adjusted correctly you will bend the valves. If you don't have a timing kit order one please and use the locking tools to adjust everything in place before you put it together and before you start the engine. When you put it together if you are not sure remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine by hand to make sure everything turns ok. You will need a multimeter to set up vanos in the correct location. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic I have the gas master timing kit from german auto solutions. I was just concerned because when I was loosening the cam bolts on the vanos they jumped and were no longer aligned properly I was wondering if turning the cams back to the correct orientation would possibly bend valves if it hasn't already
@@Elite.customs_479 From what you have told me I don't think you would have bent the valves if the cams moved just a bit, only a few degrees. How did the cam slip? Was it not locked and did you not hold it with a spanner when loosening the vanos bolts?
The cam slipped trough the open ended wrench I was using while loosening the bolt, but it jumped a while rotation off so the writing on the cam was facing down
Your tools are made of aluminium if I am not mistaken and might be a bit weeker when holding the cams. The ones I have are made of steel and are very strong and hold the square bits of the cams very well in place in case of slippage. I think you might be ok. There is 2 ways to find out. Option 1 is to take of the head which is a bog job and inspect-leak test with fuel. Option 2 is to put it together, rotate by hand and see if you feel any metal to metal contact when turning gently and if bent when you start you will have missfire on the affected valves. Hope this helps and let me know how you get on. I personally would take a chance and go with option 2
Priceless and timeless information for anyone with one of these old V-8 mills in their BMW! Bravo, and thank you once again The Keen Mechanic!!!
Thank you my friend. It means a lot to me when someone appreciates my work. I can't thank you enough for your support🤝
Thank for this video! I’m going to study this before doing mine!
Thanks for watching🤝
It was a pleasure to watch a video. Thank you! I am waiting for next lesson,master!
Thank you. I hope you enjoyed it and found it helpful. Much appreciated
great vids!
More coming soon🤝
hard work pay off :)
Thanks. I like to go into detail. Hope you found it helpful
This is exceptionally useful information. Just the tip with the guide on the left (looking at the engine from the camera's direction) could literally save someone's build. I've been researching this procedure for a while now, and no one had mentioned it. Nicely done, thank you !
Thank you. I created the video because I couldn't find much information myself. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, I am glad you found it helpful
@@TheKeenMechanic You're welcome. And I entirely know how you feel, because I feel the same way too :)
@@GregoryEsman Thanks buddy. We need to do our best to preserve these modern classics for the next generation. E38 and E39 are 2 of my favourite BMWs ever made. Is your a 7series or 5 series?
@@TheKeenMechanic Agreed :) Ugh, I can't wait until I'm done this study period so I can start working on my car. I'm literally craaawling putting a guide together for myself. It's so tedious, but I'm learning lots. I would love to experience an E38. Mine is the '03 540i :)
@@GregoryEsman Cool, you are lucky to get one of the last 540i production year. I have E39 530i facelift 2001, 535i 2000 and a diesel 525d. My 740i is a very rare model with ACC active cruise control with double glazed windows, seat massage and other cool extras. Best of luck and keep in touch. As we speak I am about to start the assembly of my restored upper sump and gasket replacement, so I absolutely love working on these M62s. Speak soon
Im impressed with this method (dots) but you should do the Vanos rebuild Because of so much work!
Keep going!
Thanks. I think you are right. Vanos is in good order and I dont drive the car much but probably not a bad idea for people to do it at this point🤝
@@TheKeenMechanic i have same, 4,6 is X5 to do... but it has 130 tkm, and i can Hear Vanos Gugling...
But Realy good explained, thanks!
@@bimmer_garage No problem. My pleasure
Love your m62tu videos!! One question what's the type of white marker you used to note the position?
Hi and thanks for your comment. I used sharpie white paint marker.
🤜🤛
Hey Keen, do you know what the tightening torque for the bolt on the tensioning guide is ?
Check out this chart
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html
Hello. Really enjoy your BMW DIY videos. Thanks for putting many together. I have a question, I started doing my chain guides on my 2000 540i M62TU ordered all the parts need including the timing tools. I got the new guides on (I just replace the main guided not the shoe guides on top) and the timing tool tensioner. I didn't touch Vanos sprockets throughout the process because I was just replacing the main guides. At that point I decide to remove the cam locks and crank pin to hand rotate the engine to check my work and it skipped tooth smh. Causing the driver side cams to rotate, but not the passenger side. My question. Is there an easy way to fix this? I rotated back to top dead, But the cams on both sides are clearly not positioned correctly. Any help would be graciously accepted. Thanks again
Hi and thanks for watching my video. Please check these 2 videos first if you haven't done it at this point. This will help you unserstand the timing system a bit better ruclips.net/video/PD07qYztc4Q/видео.html
and ruclips.net/video/doedbdqOzRM/видео.html
Don't worry, you can loosen or remove the timing chains and then make sure the timing tools are properly alligned and perfectly fit in place, then you can install your chains back in place. The intake cams will have some resistance when adjusting because of the vanos system and you will need to use a spanner as shown in the vidoes or torx bit at the front to align in place. Don't worry, just make sure everything is in place before you install the chains and remember to put a cable/zip tie on the bank 1 tensioning chain tensioner to hold tight in place so chain is under a bit of tension before turning by hand. As long as everything fits in place and all marks align you will have no problem with the timing. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic So when I get to the chain removal part. remove the primary and secondary (cam chain) then realign each cam separate to fit in the locking blocks? And I need to do this for each bay. Thanks again
@@davis2920 I wouldn't touch the small chains on the camshafts if nithing jumped there. They should be under normal tension from their tensioners and they shouldn't jump unless your sprockets are badly worn which I have never seen before on the M62TU or chain is stretched which would be very unusual. I guess you are talking about the main long chain that turns the camshafts and the crankshaft together?
@@TheKeenMechanic No I was talking about the camshafts chain, but reading your response it appears I don't need to touch that chain to realign the camshafts? Just realign with the main chain off then lock them in-place with the block?
@@davis2920 Yes, if you can manage to lock both banks with the blocks without forcing anything too much and then lock crankshaft if not already locked and install the long chain, cable tie in place if you are not using the tensioning tool from the timing kit and everything should align. Please do it gently and don't use force. When you have tension on the chain with the zip tie then you can try to rotate a few times to see if everything will align in place. It is best if you remove the spark plugs to have a better feel and no resistance due to cylinder compression
Awsome video bro 👌
Thanks Matthew. Much appreciated mate
I didn’t mark the chain and units before I removed the vanos units chains and the tensioners, is that an issue? Also would it bend valves if the cam jumped independently while at tdc with the pin in the flywheel?
Hi Kolten. This engine is an interference type engine and if your cams are not adjusted correctly you will bend the valves. If you don't have a timing kit order one please and use the locking tools to adjust everything in place before you put it together and before you start the engine. When you put it together if you are not sure remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine by hand to make sure everything turns ok. You will need a multimeter to set up vanos in the correct location. Hope this helps
@@TheKeenMechanic I have the gas master timing kit from german auto solutions. I was just concerned because when I was loosening the cam bolts on the vanos they jumped and were no longer aligned properly I was wondering if turning the cams back to the correct orientation would possibly bend valves if it hasn't already
@@Elite.customs_479 From what you have told me I don't think you would have bent the valves if the cams moved just a bit, only a few degrees. How did the cam slip? Was it not locked and did you not hold it with a spanner when loosening the vanos bolts?
The cam slipped trough the open ended wrench I was using while loosening the bolt, but it jumped a while rotation off so the writing on the cam was facing down
Your tools are made of aluminium if I am not mistaken and might be a bit weeker when holding the cams. The ones I have are made of steel and are very strong and hold the square bits of the cams very well in place in case of slippage. I think you might be ok. There is 2 ways to find out. Option 1 is to take of the head which is a bog job and inspect-leak test with fuel. Option 2 is to put it together, rotate by hand and see if you feel any metal to metal contact when turning gently and if bent when you start you will have missfire on the affected valves. Hope this helps and let me know how you get on. I personally would take a chance and go with option 2