Ok bud let me offer some advice heres the order of operations anneal, size, trim, chamfer and debur then dry tumble then remove primer then load shoot and repeat
This might help you with bumping the shoulder. I take a 1st measurement of fired case. 2nd, I set the full-length body die like the manufacturer recommended, taking measurement of case and figuring out how much to back out die in thousands. For example if the difference between the 2 cases is 10 thousands and you want a 2 thousands bump you would need 8 thousands clearance using a filler Guage between shell holder and bottom of die with handle pulled down this will get you very close note you will have 1 piece of brass fully resized mark it and use as a fouler . Also, like others have said, let Dillion case lube dry or switch case lube imperial or even RCBS case lube dry graphite I use in necks when turning necks. Also, beware of shell holders use only the manufacturer of die shell holder. For example, Do Not Do Hornady die with Lee shell holder, the shell holder will charge in thickness from one manufacturer to another and will cause problems. Hope you find this helpful.
@sedireloading1204 I would say full-length/ bumping shoulder it is no longer recommended to neck only after about 2-3 firings you will have to full-length size. You can find a RUclips video on Eric Cortina about two years ago, and he shows how he bumps shoulders using the first 2 steps his press is a Coaxial Press. With a single stage press, I find using a Filler Guage helps. You just have to place it to the side of the shell holder, and you just want a slight drag. you do not want to pinch it between shell holder and bottom of full-length sizing die.
Did you shake your bottle of Dillon lube, alcohol & lanolin? Also, allow the alcohol to evaporate from the case fully so only the lanolin is on the case before sizing. Hope this helps. Make sure the die is clean inside.
Yes I did. I cleaned the die before starting the video. I may try a different lube. But it was getting tight very soon don’t think any line will get past that.
Had a similar thing with my 22-250, just moving too much brass at once so I backed the die right off and did it in 2 stages and that seemed to work fine.
Ok bud let me offer some advice heres the order of operations anneal, size, trim, chamfer and debur then dry tumble then remove primer then load shoot and repeat
This might help you with bumping the shoulder. I take a 1st measurement of fired case. 2nd, I set the full-length body die like the manufacturer recommended, taking measurement of case and figuring out how much to back out die in thousands. For example if the difference between the 2 cases is 10 thousands and you want a 2 thousands bump you would need 8 thousands clearance using a filler Guage between shell holder and bottom of die with handle pulled down this will get you very close note you will have 1 piece of brass fully resized mark it and use as a fouler . Also, like others have said, let Dillion case lube dry or switch case lube imperial or even RCBS case lube dry graphite I use in necks when turning necks. Also, beware of shell holders use only the manufacturer of die shell holder. For example, Do Not Do Hornady die with Lee shell holder, the shell holder will charge in thickness from one manufacturer to another and will cause problems. Hope you find this helpful.
Thank you. I am looking at getting a different sizing setup and trying different lube. Trying to convince myself weather body sizing is necessary
@sedireloading1204 I would say full-length/ bumping shoulder it is no longer recommended to neck only after about 2-3 firings you will have to full-length size. You can find a RUclips video on Eric Cortina about two years ago, and he shows how he bumps shoulders using the first 2 steps his press is a Coaxial Press. With a single stage press, I find using a Filler Guage helps. You just have to place it to the side of the shell holder, and you just want a slight drag. you do not want to pinch it between shell holder and bottom of full-length sizing die.
Cool video my man.
Thank you
I’ve been there. Keep going. I use the RCBS lube and pad with Redding dry powder for the neck
Imperial case wax lube. You can’t go wrong
Did you shake your bottle of Dillon lube, alcohol & lanolin? Also, allow the alcohol to evaporate from the case fully so only the lanolin is on the case before sizing. Hope this helps. Make sure the die is clean inside.
Yes I did. I cleaned the die before starting the video. I may try a different lube. But it was getting tight very soon don’t think any line will get past that.
Had a similar thing with my 22-250, just moving too much brass at once so I backed the die right off and did it in 2 stages and that seemed to work fine.
I will give that a try next time. Makes sense good advice