My daughters saw my tile "Prominently Displayed". They were very pleased. Thanks again. Also we're using nail polish and acetone to color some of their creations tonight, double thanks again!
I find I recommend this video to everyone who asks about leveling their printers, I fond I don't even bother with the paper anymore, I just run this sliced file and adjust my Tram (level is really the wrong term.) Thank you for publishing this technique.
Awesome technique. It makes a lot of sense, now that I have set the plate with a business card as the "feeler gauge", but the actual hot application is the definitive answer. Thank-you.
Adult super vision… *gets superman in the house and blows everything off with his laser eyes* "Thats called supervision my boy… never gonna give u up" Also… never trust edited comments
I use this method since 3 years. Of cause it is much easier on my makerbot clone since the build plate isn't moving. But on my Anet A8 it is working fine too. On every print I use a 2-3 wide brim and this is enough for checking and correct the build level. I don't need auto leveling sensor.
No, it's safety third! But why did you waste all that time waiting for it to heat so slowly? Just use the preheat menu in the center, takes 3-5 minutes tops to get 200c/50c on my Mini V1. Also a interchangeable bit screwdriver with a 2mm hex bit works much better.
This method is similar to something I did with my first printer. With just a 1cm square ring around the outer edge of the print area. It worked very well but I found it wasted too much filament. (the brim idea is a good idea)
Can you share your Start and end Gcode. I cannot quite get mine right. I wanna kill the fan after 1 min after the print. And rather the gcode not run the start up temp but the individual project. Using cura
Hey Professor Joe, I see that you tape your MSM bed with the leveling screws exposed. I found that exactly two strips of 3M #2090 tape at 2.88" width will cover the table perfectly when leaving a strip front and rear exposed as you do. Also found by accident that a light wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol works as well or better than glue stick. Just a light almost dry swipe, too much and the print gets welded to the tape. I'm going to try your "live leveling" technique, but at about 20mm/second, because I'm old and slow ... :-)
Rich Post With my first covering, a piece of Buildtak, I tried covering the whole space with divots cut out for the screws only to discover that the 120 square could area didn't include that area. Love and learn. slowing down the process is an excellent idea.
You cannot have "too little" amps going into the printer. If your power supply could not supply the amps the internal resistance of the printer would make it draw, the voltage would be dropping, and most, if not all modern switchmode power supplies would go into hiccup or foldback mode to protect itself when that happens. So if the power supply could not supply enough current, the printer would most certainly reset.
It's a new thing for me. Used to be quicker, but lately the build plate is taking a while to reach temperature. the nozzle heats up quick though. Maybe I need to approve the forums.
Well, I generally use others' models for the chess sets. And I have pretty stringent requirements. Like the pieces have to be clearly recognizable as their traditional counterparts. That said I've searched on yeggi and there are no dragon chess sets out there, so I'd have to make my own from scratch, and I can already tell I'm getting stumped on the design. The rook is easy enough, just wrap a dragon around a tower. I suppose for the bishop I could do some sort of wizard... I don't know. But what for the queen? Daunting. I'll let it stew for a while.
That's ok it just took a minute for you to respond I got worried, I'll be paitient it's not easy to make 3D meshes from "just a thought." However If you would like a sample dragon maybe try to make skyrim dragon heads be the pieces. As for the issue with what piece is what maybe put and indent on the bottom for what piece it is? a pawn shape for pawns bishop shape for bishops etc.
My daughters saw my tile "Prominently Displayed". They were very pleased. Thanks again. Also we're using nail polish and acetone to color some of their creations tonight, double thanks again!
I find I recommend this video to everyone who asks about leveling their printers, I fond I don't even bother with the paper anymore, I just run this sliced file and adjust my Tram (level is really the wrong term.) Thank you for publishing this technique.
Awesome technique. It makes a lot of sense, now that I have set the plate with a business card as the "feeler gauge", but the actual hot application is the definitive answer. Thank-you.
Great technique, I have to try it! Thank you!
It's amazing how much quieter your mini is than mine. I'm good with leveling the bed. I pretty much came here for a noise comparison.
That and I watch all your videos. You never know when you'll learn something, even in an "irrelevant" or "redundant" video.
Adult super vision…
*gets superman in the house and blows everything off with his laser eyes*
"Thats called supervision my boy… never gonna give u up"
Also… never trust edited comments
Great vid again 2nd aswell
I use this method since 3 years. Of cause it is much easier on my makerbot clone since the build plate isn't moving. But on my Anet A8 it is working fine too. On every print I use a 2-3 wide brim and this is enough for checking and correct the build level. I don't need auto leveling sensor.
No, it's safety third!
But why did you waste all that time waiting for it to heat so slowly? Just use the preheat menu in the center, takes 3-5 minutes tops to get 200c/50c on my Mini V1.
Also a interchangeable bit screwdriver with a 2mm hex bit works much better.
Dont bump the head while printing as the Timing belts will jump and the print will start to shift of the original..
This method is similar to something I did with my first printer. With just a 1cm square ring around the outer edge of the print area. It worked very well but I found it wasted too much filament. (the brim idea is a good idea)
you should heat the bed and nozzle for at least 5 mins before leveling the bed, and level when things are hot :)
Can you share your Start and end Gcode. I cannot quite get mine right. I wanna kill the fan after 1 min after the print. And rather the gcode not run the start up temp but the individual project. Using cura
Hey Professor Joe, I see that you tape your MSM bed with the leveling screws exposed. I found that exactly two strips of 3M #2090 tape at 2.88" width will cover the table perfectly when leaving a strip front and rear exposed as you do. Also found by accident that a light wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol works as well or better than glue stick. Just a light almost dry swipe, too much and the print gets welded to the tape. I'm going to try your "live leveling" technique, but at about 20mm/second, because I'm old and slow ... :-)
Rich Post With my first covering, a piece of Buildtak, I tried covering the whole space with divots cut out for the screws only to discover that the 120 square could area didn't include that area. Love and learn.
slowing down the process is an excellent idea.
My IIIP heats up a lot faster than your. Do you have enough amps going into it?
You cannot have "too little" amps going into the printer. If your power supply could not supply the amps the internal resistance of the printer would make it draw, the voltage would be dropping, and most, if not all modern switchmode power supplies would go into hiccup or foldback mode to protect itself when that happens. So if the power supply could not supply enough current, the printer would most certainly reset.
Thanks for the answer zaprodk. Why do you think his takes so long to warm up?
They may have changed the power supply specifications (lower voltage) or the heater.
It's a new thing for me. Used to be quicker, but lately the build plate is taking a while to reach temperature. the nozzle heats up quick though. Maybe I need to approve the forums.
I would make it print a little slower.
Jacob R Excellent point.
being extra safe, especially after the "hairspray incident", doesnt hurt :)
Bilal Akyüz Without question it changed my approach, even if the whole thing turned out to be exaggerated and easily avoidable.
It definetly was
beats hand coding a track all around the edge in gcode !!
tchiwam Hard mode activated.
Actually it's not that bad.
Yo
Are you ever going to get to my request I made about 2 years ago? ....no ok
You may have to remind me. What request did you have?
3D Printing Professor Well I was thinking a bout the tungsten chess set you made, could you make a special dragon themed chess? set I wish I had one.
Well, I generally use others' models for the chess sets. And I have pretty stringent requirements. Like the pieces have to be clearly recognizable as their traditional counterparts. That said I've searched on yeggi and there are no dragon chess sets out there, so I'd have to make my own from scratch, and I can already tell I'm getting stumped on the design. The rook is easy enough, just wrap a dragon around a tower. I suppose for the bishop I could do some sort of wizard... I don't know. But what for the queen? Daunting. I'll let it stew for a while.
That's ok it just took a minute for you to respond I got worried, I'll be paitient it's not easy to make 3D meshes from "just a thought." However If you would like a sample dragon maybe try to make skyrim dragon heads be the pieces. As for the issue with what piece is what maybe put and indent on the bottom for what piece it is? a pawn shape for pawns bishop shape for bishops etc.
Do not even breathe...just saying. PHEAR the 3d printer, lol.