Have you ever run into this? Did you repair it and save a bunch of money or just replace it? I personally can't resist saving at least $15 by just fixing them myself.
One thing to consider when selecting the replacement male or female is how hard is the plastic. I've bought "industrial" ends and had a couple shatter if the end gets smacked against the concrete. I prefer the Hubble ends as they're a slightly softer material that won't shatter. The other reason I use the non-consumer grade type is that I will only use clamp plate connectors. Using the J-hook on stranded wire is a non-starter.
if you need to wrap a stranded wire on a J hook, the twist on most stranded wire is in the wrong direction. when you tighten the screw, individual strands are likely to come out of the twist reversing the twist, so the exposed strands are twisted counterclockwise will cause the strands to be drawn tighter into the twist. it's a small thing that makes a better connection.
I got all excited because I thought from the title it would show how to repair damage smack in the middle of the cord. I could cut it in half and have two 25' or or learn how to repair it. Ideas?
I have a question. I bought an exhaust fan for my bathroom years ago. Never installed it. But I'm remodeling my bathroom, and I'm getting ready to replace the exhaust fan before I sheetrock. The exhaust fan, though, has plug-ins, where the old fan is hardwired. Can I cut off the plug-ins and connect the fan wires to the romex? I want to make sure I won't cause some kind of overload where my breakers are constantly tripping, and worse yet, make it a fire hazard. Thanks
On the stranded wire, instead of stripping off all the sheathing, pull it just enough to expose the wire and then loop it around the screw and trim off any extra sheathing
Behavioral Science. You never, ever pull jacket back/wires out, and he did cable prep properly. With sole exception of using a knife on a thin-jacket cable and probably giving white wire's insulation a nick (need better res, 4:19).
Good video for a common situation. However, here’s a kinda uncommon problem I’ve run into: I have a wonderful old lamp that I love but if I put an LED bulb in it it will start to flicker. I have heard two solutions. 1 Put an incandescent bulb in it. 2. Replace the lamp. Is there any other option?
big question: is the switch a mechanical switch or a dimmer/electronic switch. if the latter, a dimmable LED bulb may perform better. otherwise, rebuilding the lamp is the third option. (to clarify, if there is a bad connection in the switch or socket, it could provide enough of an intermittent flow of electricity to cause the more sensitive LD to flicker, and replacing the switch and socket could fix it.)
@@kenbrown2808 Thanks. I’ll ck that out. I have rebuilt lamps before but this one looks like it would b a pain. However if nothing else works I’ll give it my best shot.
@yvonnejackson1696 the socket would be the first thing to look at. Sometimes just flexing the center contact a bit and polishing it with a pencil eraser helps. Unplugged, of course.
Wouldn't it be better to replace both ends and not just one side. Kinda like tires, should replace tires in pairs, so why not replace both male and female ends? Am a total beginner so if this is a dumb question i get it.
I would have made a ring, looping the end around the conductor and then tin it. I hate tinned connections, but certainly better than bare stranded under bolt. The best way would be a crimp with through-hole terminal, but that housing is fairly small.
Why you dont use wire end sleeves in the USA? Here in Europe you can't even think about screwing a clamping screw directly onto a stranded wire. Of course there are botches who do this - but even a responsible hobbyist uses wire end ferrules...
I don't know if you've priced any decent quality extension cords, but even a crappy 16 gauge 50' cord is $16. All my cords 50' and under are 14 or 12 gauge, and longer than 50' are all 12 gauge (and that's American 12 gauge, not Vevor or Aliexpress 12 gauge). They're expensive, so replacing a damaged end is far more cost effective. What sucks is damage in the middle, where your 50' cord is now a 20' cord and a 30' cord.
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Have you ever run into this? Did you repair it and save a bunch of money or just replace it? I personally can't resist saving at least $15 by just fixing them myself.
One thing to consider when selecting the replacement male or female is how hard is the plastic. I've bought "industrial" ends and had a couple shatter if the end gets smacked against the concrete. I prefer the Hubble ends as they're a slightly softer material that won't shatter. The other reason I use the non-consumer grade type is that I will only use clamp plate connectors. Using the J-hook on stranded wire is a non-starter.
I learned a lot today. The colors of the screws and which to use for the black wire. Excellent tutorial.
Good video. Thanks!
Back to work. Job well done, and thank you. 😊
if you need to wrap a stranded wire on a J hook, the twist on most stranded wire is in the wrong direction. when you tighten the screw, individual strands are likely to come out of the twist reversing the twist, so the exposed strands are twisted counterclockwise will cause the strands to be drawn tighter into the twist. it's a small thing that makes a better connection.
Great demonstration. Checking polarity w/ circuit tester satisfying way to finish. Good movie making, like the pacing..
I got all excited because I thought from the title it would show how to repair damage smack in the middle of the cord. I could cut it in half and have two 25' or or learn how to repair it. Ideas?
This is the REAL question.
I have a question. I bought an exhaust fan for my bathroom years ago. Never installed it. But I'm remodeling my bathroom, and I'm getting ready to replace the exhaust fan before I sheetrock. The exhaust fan, though, has plug-ins, where the old fan is hardwired. Can I cut off the plug-ins and connect the fan wires to the romex? I want to make sure I won't cause some kind of overload where my breakers are constantly tripping, and worse yet, make it a fire hazard.
Thanks
On the stranded wire, instead of stripping off all the sheathing, pull it just enough to expose the wire and then loop it around the screw and trim off any extra sheathing
I did it per the instructions.
Behavioral
Science.
You never, ever pull jacket back/wires out, and he did cable prep properly. With sole exception of using a knife on a thin-jacket cable and probably giving white wire's insulation a nick (need better res, 4:19).
Good video for a common situation. However, here’s a kinda uncommon problem I’ve run into: I have a wonderful old lamp that I love but if I put an LED bulb in it it will start to flicker. I have heard two solutions. 1 Put an incandescent bulb in it. 2. Replace the lamp.
Is there any other option?
big question: is the switch a mechanical switch or a dimmer/electronic switch. if the latter, a dimmable LED bulb may perform better. otherwise, rebuilding the lamp is the third option. (to clarify, if there is a bad connection in the switch or socket, it could provide enough of an intermittent flow of electricity to cause the more sensitive LD to flicker, and replacing the switch and socket could fix it.)
@@kenbrown2808 Thanks. I’ll ck that out. I have rebuilt lamps before but this one looks like it would b a pain. However if nothing else works I’ll give it my best shot.
@yvonnejackson1696 the socket would be the first thing to look at. Sometimes just flexing the center contact a bit and polishing it with a pencil eraser helps. Unplugged, of course.
Wouldn't it be better to replace both ends and not just one side.
Kinda like tires, should replace tires in pairs, so why not replace both male and female ends?
Am a total beginner so if this is a dumb question i get it.
Personally I would have soldered or "tinned" the end of the strand wire before installing.
I would have made a ring, looping the end around the conductor and then tin it. I hate tinned connections, but certainly better than bare stranded under bolt.
The best way would be a crimp with through-hole terminal, but that housing is fairly small.
Why you dont use wire end sleeves in the USA? Here in Europe you can't even think about screwing a clamping screw directly onto a stranded wire. Of course there are botches who do this - but even a responsible hobbyist uses wire end ferrules...
It’s an extension cord. Also, nothing wrong with clamping down on stranded wire.
$13 to $15 for a female end, I'd just buy a new extension cord if that's the case.
I agree. I’m guessing those options are more for people just wanting a heavier duty setup.
I don't know if you've priced any decent quality extension cords, but even a crappy 16 gauge 50' cord is $16. All my cords 50' and under are 14 or 12 gauge, and longer than 50' are all 12 gauge (and that's American 12 gauge, not Vevor or Aliexpress 12 gauge). They're expensive, so replacing a damaged end is far more cost effective. What sucks is damage in the middle, where your 50' cord is now a 20' cord and a 30' cord.
Uncrimped stranded wire under screw. Big NO.
Making a ring and tinning it is barely tolerable. This, however, is not tolerable.
I knew this comment would come. Says you. But the instructions say to do it this way and that it is acceptable. There’s nothing wrong with it.