Thomas, just a suggestions really, f you want to make a really precise cut put baking paper down underneath the bottom layer, that'll prevent the bottom layer from sticking to the box and your cut will be much cleaner as you don't need to peel a strip of veneer from the box.
Very nice work, just what I needed. Would like to see a pick and products on ur finished build. Just realizing store bought products leave alot to be desired.
Great Job. I wish you were near Tucson, boy do I have a project for you.I would have loved to see how you trimmed the veneer, stained and poly'ed the project.
Be careful, guys. I was using a framing square as a straight edge to cut a floor tile, once upon a time. The razor sharp utility knife blade skipped over the edge of the square and across one of my fingers. Yea, to the bone. Blood sprayed everywhere and made a huge mess. Needed stitches, but got super glue instead. No time to bleed. Had to get finished.
Nice work Thomas! I'm looking to try this on a smaller scale for a small box, still with a 1'' rounded corner... Wish me luck! - also, just out of curiosity, have u thought about putting a nice slim ebony or wenger beading where the seams would meet? Could be a nice accentuation on the finished product?
Thanks sir! Yes, I've purchased a few pre-fabbed inlay pieces to do something with, but haven't had the time, or I should say had the guts to try it yet. That might look good if it was in a spot where it made sense. I think with a 1" roundover as long as the grain is parallel to the curve, it should go fairly easy. If the veneer sounds like it wants to do some cracking, hit it with some veneer softener an hour before putting the glue on, that will make it more flexible.
Iron-on has some serious pro's: There's no bad smells, the process is not super-dependent on perfect timing, no "oops, it touched and it won't come off" issues, etc. Of course, there are some good contact cements, I've used a good one called Titan DX premium contact cement from veneersupplies.com. It's water based, holds fine and cleans up with water. You can use it indoors, it's not super-smelly. Also, if you are using non-paper backed veneers, iron on method is not recommended, the heat from the iron causes the wood to shrink and crack, as you know - not backed veneers are not nearly as stable as backed against cracking, chipping, etc. Non-backed veneers are good candidates for contact cement. I just don't love contact cement in general, it can 'sling' around as you apply it with a roller if you're not careful, and it gets on tools and stuff and makes stuff gummy and rubbery feeling. Plus it can run fairly easily getting on the good veneer you just applied. When used carefully, I'm sure it's fine, but I always come back to iron-on Heat lock as it's almost idiot-proof. Iron on method needs a fairly flat surface with no inside curves, if there are inside curves, then contact cement is the best choice. Outside curves where an iron could still touch work fine with the iron on method as seen in the video. Also, with that contact cement, a scraper is needed to provide adequate pressure. Hope there's something useful in all of that blabbing!
Wow, computer speakers. Umm thats not going to put out much BASS. Not when your used to 32k watts and 6 18" subs. No I'm joking but that's what I used to do in car audio. Dam van hit 157 spl at the windshild. No I was watching a guy use tightbond II and an iron to bend the bend on the long grain side the same way. In fact looking at the mass produced end table next to me they bent the wood both direction and on all 4 rounded over conners. So it can be done. I think i would have used a full sheet. Impressed you used mdf. Im not that big on looks my 12" just going to get painted i used used mdf. That had paint on it. I might wrap it in vinyl or somthing i used a lot of screws. Dont want to risk a router bit on it not a whiteside. Also its down firing its going in a conner at the back of the room where you wont see it. The 12w3 JL audio sub with a 400 watt amp should hit pretty hard. Not bad for a home theater room. It really might be too much bass for this large room. If not ill make one for the 15w6. Almost rather have a 10w7 and 1000 watts. In a ported box all 3 versions.
Sorry you feel that way, I do kind of understand. I'm not a pro at this, just wanted to put it out there to help someone else who may have struggled with this in the past or wants to try veneering. We've all gotten spoiled by having so many nearly-professional videos out there, they make my feeble attempts look pretty amateurish.
Thank you very much. Your fine instructions were clear and much appreciated.
Thomas, just a suggestions really, f you want to make a really precise cut put baking paper down underneath the bottom layer, that'll prevent the bottom layer from sticking to the box and your cut will be much cleaner as you don't need to peel a strip of veneer from the box.
Very nice work, just what I needed. Would like to see a pick and products on ur finished build. Just realizing store bought products leave alot to be desired.
You can use a hot damp towel to bend the veneer around a tight corner. Let the veneer dry before you glue it up.
Nice job.
Zarbo is my favorite!
Nice guide, thanks! exactly what I was looking for 🙂👍
Great Job. I wish you were near Tucson, boy do I have a project for you.I would have loved to see how you trimmed the veneer, stained and poly'ed the project.
I'm your biggest fan. 🤓
I bet you say that to all the RUclipsrs!
Be careful, guys. I was using a framing square as a straight edge to cut a floor tile, once upon a time. The razor sharp utility knife blade skipped over the edge of the square and across one of my fingers. Yea, to the bone. Blood sprayed everywhere and made a huge mess. Needed stitches, but got super glue instead. No time to bleed. Had to get finished.
Black tape works too anything to hold the flesh togather untill you get treatment and a Titus shot.
Wow, that seam really came out nice. Thanks for the video!
Nice work Thomas! I'm looking to try this on a smaller scale for a small box, still with a 1'' rounded corner... Wish me luck! - also, just out of curiosity, have u thought about putting a nice slim ebony or wenger beading where the seams would meet? Could be a nice accentuation on the finished product?
Also, before I forget, did you use contact adhesive on the glue-up? I couldn't figure out the name of the brand u used (I'm from the UK)
Thanks sir! Yes, I've purchased a few pre-fabbed inlay pieces to do something with, but haven't had the time, or I should say had the guts to try it yet. That might look good if it was in a spot where it made sense. I think with a 1" roundover as long as the grain is parallel to the curve, it should go fairly easy. If the veneer sounds like it wants to do some cracking, hit it with some veneer softener an hour before putting the glue on, that will make it more flexible.
Thanks for the tips Thomas! Keep at it, looking forward to seeing some more of your vids in the future!
Thanks Tom! Do you prefer iron-on method to contact cement, or can share any pros/cons between the two?
Iron-on has some serious pro's:
There's no bad smells, the process is not super-dependent on perfect timing, no "oops, it touched and it won't come off" issues, etc.
Of course, there are some good contact cements, I've used a good one called Titan DX premium contact cement from veneersupplies.com. It's water based, holds fine and cleans up with water. You can use it indoors, it's not super-smelly. Also, if you are using non-paper backed veneers, iron on method is not recommended, the heat from the iron causes the wood to shrink and crack, as you know - not backed veneers are not nearly as stable as backed against cracking, chipping, etc. Non-backed veneers are good candidates for contact cement.
I just don't love contact cement in general, it can 'sling' around as you apply it with a roller if you're not careful, and it gets on tools and stuff and makes stuff gummy and rubbery feeling. Plus it can run fairly easily getting on the good veneer you just applied. When used carefully, I'm sure it's fine, but I always come back to iron-on Heat lock as it's almost idiot-proof.
Iron on method needs a fairly flat surface with no inside curves, if there are inside curves, then contact cement is the best choice. Outside curves where an iron could still touch work fine with the iron on method as seen in the video. Also, with that contact cement, a scraper is needed to provide adequate pressure.
Hope there's something useful in all of that blabbing!
Helpful video, though would have preferred louder voice, and much quieter music, thanks for showing us
Good
Beter use a protein glue like hide glues
Wow, computer speakers. Umm thats not going to put out much BASS. Not when your used to 32k watts and 6 18" subs.
No I'm joking but that's what I used to do in car audio. Dam van hit 157 spl at the windshild.
No I was watching a guy use tightbond II and an iron to bend the bend on the long grain side the same way. In fact looking at the mass produced end table next to me they bent the wood both direction and on all 4 rounded over conners.
So it can be done. I think i would have used a full sheet. Impressed you used mdf. Im not that big on looks my 12" just going to get painted i used used mdf. That had paint on it. I might wrap it in vinyl or somthing i used a lot of screws. Dont want to risk a router bit on it not a whiteside. Also its down firing its going in a conner at the back of the room where you wont see it. The 12w3 JL audio sub with a 400 watt amp should hit pretty hard. Not bad for a home theater room. It really might be too much bass for this large room. If not ill make one for the 15w6. Almost rather have a 10w7 and 1000 watts. In a ported box all 3 versions.
Your music is bloody annoying it is far louder than it should be and is a total put off bye.
Sorry you feel that way, I do kind of understand. I'm not a pro at this, just wanted to put it out there to help someone else who may have struggled with this in the past or wants to try veneering.
We've all gotten spoiled by having so many nearly-professional videos out there, they make my feeble attempts look pretty amateurish.
Bloody Hell!!!! How dare for making a mistake
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