Hi, Ron from Ron Small Engines here. When we see this rare problem, we suspect water from condensation in the oil, which foams it up and pushes a lot through. The second suspect is the drain hole. The third suspect is excessive oil. The fourth suspect is the spring. In some engines like Tecumseh horizontal shaft engines, it is a reed valve which is part of the valve cover. In snowblower engines, it is rarely the blow-by unless someone has never changed the oil, only added oil year after year. With sludge build up, the connecting rod breaks earlier than either blow-by develops or the valve cover vent fails.
I've seen quite a few of the scenarios that you've mentioned. Briggs actually promoted the never change the oil as marketing garbage. Water foaming and steaming up in the vent sump and forming a heavy varnish and clogging the screen and sump drain hole.
@@brantsmallenginerepairs on that Toro mower,I did like you said concerning the drive belt to the transmission,belt appears to be stretched out too much
The breather hose is for the compression and vacuum created in the crankcase when the piston moves up and down. The reason it goes into the air filter base is to prevent dirt entering the crankcase when it creates a vacuum. The compression and vacuum in the crankcase is also used in two cycle engines to move air and fuel to the cylinder
Excellent video. I am interested to know if it blew any more oil out weeks after your repair. Thanks for sharing thus. These odd issues is where a person watching these videos really learns alot.
Glad you found this video interesting. Unfortunately I can not answer your question as I would have sold or given this mower back to it's owner after fixing it. I can say though that I didn't receive word about this mower having issues after I sent it on it's way so I can assume the fix worked. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
I'd love to agree to dissagree or dissagree to agree or i not even sure it's the right terminology. lol any who ...sometimes it's easy fix sometimes it is hard to find for myself on these engines. nevertheless thank you very much for your time and patience. i commend you sir. 👍💪👌🙏
I just got 2 other Kohlers in with the same exact issue. I have replaced the oil to proper level, checked and cleaned the breather area including disc, spring and drain hole. Did a leak down and got less than 5% leak. Only air I could hear was from the two small holes in valve area. So rings and head gasket are good. Even verified gasket was good by taking head off. Adjusted valves while in there. So this seems to be pretty common among these xt engines.
@@kylarholcomb could be except leak down test did not show worn rings. There was little to no air coming from oil dipstick and only 5% leak down during test
had a problem like this on a Kohler, I had to 1, clean out the PCV system and use 20% Engine Restore with remainder as regular oil in a oil change, and then for me it went away. a blown head gasket may case the same I heard. as well as warn rings this seems to be a common thing with xt engines. gr8 video, similar issue for me few years back and same solution
Worn piston Rings would cause a similar problem. Some of the charge would blow past the piston Rings, causing the crankcase to pressurise more than normal.
You had oil contaminated by fuel - as shown at the beginning of your video, this would make the oil thinner and more likely to splash out the crankcase vent. Changing the oil is likely the real repair here- and the oil burning was caused initially by the bad seat and needle in the old carburetor. Thanks for sharing your repair.
THERE'S YOUR SIGN......... That is where the oil sump is getting too much product. Gas and oil mix. I see a new Chinese carb on there. Good luck with it.
This is a great step by step. I have the same engine and I noticed that oil will leak from the same tube/hose even at rest. Was yours doing that or only leaking while running?
This was not my personal mower. It was a customer machine or a flip. If it leaks out of the base of the filler tube when not running, you likely have 2 problems. Bad O ring and overfilled oil. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
The crankcase breather itself is likely worn and going bad. if it does not open up from oil pressure and divert the pressure the oil will blow through the hose to the carburetor breather instead of draining back into the crankcase through the drain hole because pressure will blow the oil out faster than it can collect and drain. The little disc you talk about is flexible and when it loses flexibility it will malfunction. When it works correctly oil pressure blow by is diverted so it cannot blow out the engine through the carb filter hose. This isolated oil collects around the drain hole where it is not under pressure, so it drains back into the crankcase. Only residual fumes should be going to the carb for burning else you would use a lot of oil and the carb would burn too rich and smoke with an oil air breather needing to be constantly cleaned...
Hi - is there any way to "bore" out that little drain hole to make the oil return easier into the crankcase? (Briggs v-twin 20 hp intek on a John Deere L120 lawn tractor). You would be drilling aluminum to bore it out but how do you keep the drill shavings from getting into the crankcase?
I wouldn't necessarily do this since it was designed a specific way for a reason. But as for the shavings, you could use a glob of grease on the end of the drill bit to "capture" the shavings. Go slow and replace grease often. Then make sure to change the oil when done. Once again, I don't recommend this but just trying to help.
Don't drill out anything. If the hole is not clogged and everything is working as it should there is no need to make the drain hole larger. The oil around the drain is not under pressure and will drain properly. You could send shaving into your engine oil and maybe even break off a drill bit. On a car the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve works on the same principle. Routine maintenance is to replace the PCV valve every so many miles, probably around 50,000 miles. So, on your mower make sure you have clean oil and regular oil changes and after considerable run time hours if you experience oil blow by then replace the relatively inexpensive crankcase breather or do it as a preventative measure.
cub cadet 19" pushmower , very same problem looks like same engine, oil leaking from breather onto deck a couple ounces every time mow city size lot 60 x 120,,, engine seems pressurized so i removed the vent hose and position it above lawnmower with a cloth "filter' attached to end and it becomes saturated with oil ...the oil always changed and maintained. then removed and cleaned valve disc and enlarged drain hole a little to ensure drainage back to crankcase..removed cylinder head and checked head gasket ,seemed ok so i used a bit of permatex to ensure a good seal and torqued bolts evenly .. any advice thanks dave
Could be worn piston rings allowing pressure that is built up in the cylinder to bypass rings and build up too much pressure in crankcase. Is there any white smoke out of the exhaust? You could also check the compression for worn rings or a leak down test. Both require special tools. Also, did you check the tension on the spring like in the video? Maybe a bad spring.
hi thanks for the quick response ,,no white smoke out of exhaust ,,runs fine like original but a little bit louder than new ,,when i checked the disc valve they had forgotten to install the coiled spring so i installed one but up until i experienced oil leak from the breather didnt have any issues ,they also had a bolt plugging the tube off of the muffler system [i assumed it was someone at the factory playing games and i removed it ] emissions ? @@brantsmallenginerepairs
@@danthony7531 compression blow by is probably not your problem so doing a leak down test is probably not necessary. But if you want to learn how to do one, check out this video. ruclips.net/video/NkSSZ_np4KE/видео.html I would double check the spring and change oil making sure to not overfill.
I have a craftsman m110 push mower that is only a year old that leaks oil out of air filter when warmed up other than that runs excellent can I do the same process you did to fix my mower ?
Each engine has a slightly different crankcase breather system. If yours has a Kohler engine than it will be the same. If the engine is different, the concept will be the same but the components might be different. I would start by checking the oil level first though to make sure it's not overfilled.
@@russellprice7628 not sure what your asking. I didn't replace any parts on this mower to stop the leaking oil. As for the leaking carburetor, I just replaced the whole carburetor
Visible oil drips from the muffler would most likely be caused by flipping the mower over with the exhaust down. Ideally you should tip a mower so that the handle is down and the front wheels off the ground. Also check to make sure it's not over filled with oil.
I have the same problem with mine and the oil was like a solid almost and I don’t know how old it is but the lady who had obviously didn’t do any maintenance on it and I’m not that mechanically inclined
First thing would be to drain all the oil. Try to get as much out of it as possible. Make sure to tip it carburetor side up if you tip it over. If it's really sludgy, maybe add a bit of gasoline to help loosen it up but make sure you drain all of that out. Add some fresh oil and do not overfill. Run it for 5 to 10 minutes and then change the oil again. Hopefully this helps.
My zero turn looked like it ate Taco Bell it was shooting out black oil and had a lot of smoke so I decided to take off the air filter and start it that was a disaster my mower is black now any suggestions
Am having the same problem,have try every thing I no and what have seen in your video but is not working. Secondly the spring was out before it was brought to my work shop,I can not have the same spring to fix it the.
@@megaengineeringsolution1911 sorry but I don't have what's app. I tried looking for a parts diagram for your engine but can't find anything. It's going to be pretty hard to help without any info on the engine. This type of engine is not available in Canada. Sorry
I was able to stop the oil from PCV by adjusting oil level and increasing the spring tension on the disc of the PCV system. Thanks for watching. Cheers
I was thinking worn rings as well. Blow by pressurizing the crankcase. The old oil viscosity may have been thinning out as well,allowing for more blow by. It may be working now,but I think its days are numbered.
Full is full is full is as full. Reason why they added a FULL mark on the stick. You are NOT supposed to over fill past the full mark. Anything over that full mark is NOT GOOD. "Oh it's just a little bit", wrong answer. Keep it at the full mark prior to starting any air cooled engine.
OMG ! ML too the DH at the MP ! Run Marvel Mystery Oil threw the crankcase about a quarter cup. Run for 20 minutes,flush, refill with oil. Or? Tear your mower apart as the PROFESSOR describes and take 2 hours. I ain't saying what I said works all the time,but for us old farts we know Marvel Mystery Oil is just that. ...A Mystery
Hi, Ron from Ron Small Engines here. When we see this rare problem, we suspect water from condensation in the oil, which foams it up and pushes a lot through. The second suspect is the drain hole. The third suspect is excessive oil. The fourth suspect is the spring. In some engines like Tecumseh horizontal shaft engines, it is a reed valve which is part of the valve cover. In snowblower engines, it is rarely the blow-by unless someone has never changed the oil, only added oil year after year. With sludge build up, the connecting rod breaks earlier than either blow-by develops or the valve cover vent fails.
Appreciate the comment Ron. Thanks for the input.
I've seen quite a few of the scenarios that you've mentioned.
Briggs actually promoted the never change the oil as marketing garbage.
Water foaming and steaming up in the vent sump and forming a heavy varnish and clogging the screen and sump drain hole.
I have a Troy bilt mower with a Honda engine..it's smoking and then idle slows down. Head gasket (?)???
@@brantsmallenginerepairs on that Toro mower,I did like you said concerning the drive belt to the transmission,belt appears to be stretched out too much
@@gradyhernandez4699 thanks.
Your video saved my mower little ho,e on bottom clogged cleaned it and no longer pushing oil out of air filter. Cheers steve
Glad this helped Steve. Cheers
The breather hose is for the compression and vacuum created in the crankcase when the piston moves up and down. The reason it goes into the air filter base is to prevent dirt entering the crankcase when it creates a vacuum. The compression and vacuum in the crankcase is also used in two cycle engines to move air and fuel to the cylinder
Thanks for watching. Cheers
Excellent video. I am interested to know if it blew any more oil out weeks after your repair. Thanks for sharing thus. These odd issues is where a person watching these videos really learns alot.
Glad you found this video interesting. Unfortunately I can not answer your question as I would have sold or given this mower back to it's owner after fixing it. I can say though that I didn't receive word about this mower having issues after I sent it on it's way so I can assume the fix worked. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
I'd love to agree to dissagree or dissagree to agree or i not even sure it's the right terminology. lol any who ...sometimes it's easy fix sometimes it is hard to find for myself on these engines. nevertheless thank you very much for your time and patience. i commend you sir. 👍💪👌🙏
I just got 2 other Kohlers in with the same exact issue. I have replaced the oil to proper level, checked and cleaned the breather area including disc, spring and drain hole. Did a leak down and got less than 5% leak. Only air I could hear was from the two small holes in valve area. So rings and head gasket are good. Even verified gasket was good by taking head off. Adjusted valves while in there. So this seems to be pretty common among these xt engines.
piton rings are worn out building to much crank case pressure
@@kylarholcomb could be except leak down test did not show worn rings. There was little to no air coming from oil dipstick and only 5% leak down during test
I enjoy watching how people trouble shoot the problems
Fun and relaxing
Me too! Thanks for watching.
had a problem like this on a Kohler, I had to 1, clean out the PCV system and use 20% Engine Restore with remainder as regular oil in a oil change, and then for me it went away. a blown head gasket may case the same I heard. as well as warn rings this seems to be a common thing with xt engines. gr8 video, similar issue for me few years back and same solution
I agree. This seems to be a big issue with the Kohler engines. Not a big fan. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Worn piston Rings would cause a similar problem. Some of the charge would blow past the piston Rings, causing the crankcase to pressurise more than normal.
Thanks for the tip. Someone else also mentioned that.
You had oil contaminated by fuel - as shown at the beginning of your video, this would make the oil thinner and more likely to splash out the crankcase vent. Changing the oil is likely the real repair here- and the oil burning was caused initially by the bad seat and needle in the old carburetor. Thanks for sharing your repair.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
THERE'S YOUR SIGN......... That is where the oil sump is getting too much product. Gas and oil mix. I see a new Chinese carb on there. Good luck with it.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
This is a great step by step. I have the same engine and I noticed that oil will leak from the same tube/hose even at rest. Was yours doing that or only leaking while running?
This was not my personal mower. It was a customer machine or a flip. If it leaks out of the base of the filler tube when not running, you likely have 2 problems. Bad O ring and overfilled oil. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Thank s for the video
My pleasure. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Thanks for the video like your channel this is some great info as I’m haveing some of the issues with one of my repairs .
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Works perfect for me thank you guys
That's great news. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
If engine is not worth rebuilding just dump vent hose to out side and put a tad of steel wool in end of hose
Good tip. Thanks for watching. Cheers
The crankcase breather itself is likely worn and going bad. if it does not open up from oil pressure and divert the pressure the oil will blow through the hose to the carburetor breather instead of draining back into the crankcase through the drain hole because pressure will blow the oil out faster than it can collect and drain. The little disc you talk about is flexible and when it loses flexibility it will malfunction. When it works correctly oil pressure blow by is diverted so it cannot blow out the engine through the carb filter hose. This isolated oil collects around the drain hole where it is not under pressure, so it drains back into the crankcase. Only residual fumes should be going to the carb for burning else you would use a lot of oil and the carb would burn too rich and smoke with an oil air breather needing to be constantly cleaned...
Thanks for taking the time to watch and respond. Cheers
Hi - is there any way to "bore" out that little drain hole to make the oil return easier into the crankcase? (Briggs v-twin 20 hp intek on a John Deere L120 lawn tractor). You would be drilling aluminum to bore it out but how do you keep the drill shavings from getting into the crankcase?
I wouldn't necessarily do this since it was designed a specific way for a reason. But as for the shavings, you could use a glob of grease on the end of the drill bit to "capture" the shavings. Go slow and replace grease often. Then make sure to change the oil when done. Once again, I don't recommend this but just trying to help.
Don't drill out anything. If the hole is not clogged and everything is working as it should there is no need to make the drain hole larger. The oil around the drain is not under pressure and will drain properly. You could send shaving into your engine oil and maybe even break off a drill bit. On a car the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve works on the same principle. Routine maintenance is to replace the PCV valve every so many miles, probably around 50,000 miles. So, on your mower make sure you have clean oil and regular oil changes and after considerable run time hours if you experience oil blow by then replace the relatively inexpensive crankcase breather or do it as a preventative measure.
Actually 150ml overfill is a lot. For small engines it don't take much to overfill.
Yep. I always caution anyone not to overfill at all. Cheers
What did you use to clean/unclog that little drain hole?
Get a can of BRAKE PARTS cleaner at Walmart. With the little straw spray the whole,then use welder tip cleaning brush too poke down in the whole.
cub cadet 19" pushmower , very same problem looks like same engine, oil leaking from breather onto deck a couple ounces every time mow city size lot 60 x 120,,, engine seems pressurized so i removed the vent hose and position it above lawnmower with a cloth "filter' attached to end and it becomes saturated with oil ...the oil always changed and maintained. then removed and cleaned valve disc and enlarged drain hole a little to ensure drainage back to crankcase..removed cylinder head and checked head gasket ,seemed ok so i used a bit of permatex to ensure a good seal and torqued bolts evenly .. any advice thanks dave
Could be worn piston rings allowing pressure that is built up in the cylinder to bypass rings and build up too much pressure in crankcase. Is there any white smoke out of the exhaust? You could also check the compression for worn rings or a leak down test. Both require special tools. Also, did you check the tension on the spring like in the video? Maybe a bad spring.
hi thanks for the quick response ,,no white smoke out of exhaust ,,runs fine like original but a little bit louder than new ,,when i checked the disc valve they had forgotten to install the coiled spring so i installed one but up until i experienced oil leak from the breather didnt have any issues ,they also had a bolt plugging the tube off of the muffler system [i assumed it was someone at the factory playing games and i removed it ] emissions ? @@brantsmallenginerepairs
i wasnt sure how to do leakdown test
@@danthony7531 are you saying it didn't leak before you installed the spring and now it does leak after installing the spring?
@@danthony7531 compression blow by is probably not your problem so doing a leak down test is probably not necessary. But if you want to learn how to do one, check out this video. ruclips.net/video/NkSSZ_np4KE/видео.html
I would double check the spring and change oil making sure to not overfill.
Do you think the hole was clogged too,? What if I drill that hole a little bigger
The hole was made a certain size during manufacturing and shouldn't need to be opened up if everything is working as it should.
Thanks
I have a craftsman m110 push mower that is only a year old that leaks oil out of air filter when warmed up other than that runs excellent can I do the same process you did to fix my mower ?
Each engine has a slightly different crankcase breather system. If yours has a Kohler engine than it will be the same. If the engine is different, the concept will be the same but the components might be different. I would start by checking the oil level first though to make sure it's not overfilled.
@@russellprice7628 not sure what your asking. I didn't replace any parts on this mower to stop the leaking oil. As for the leaking carburetor, I just replaced the whole carburetor
@@brantsmallenginerepairs this was a question I asked another person on a different topic my mistake, going to delete this comment
What if it’s leaking out of the exhaust
Visible oil drips from the muffler would most likely be caused by flipping the mower over with the exhaust down. Ideally you should tip a mower so that the handle is down and the front wheels off the ground. Also check to make sure it's not over filled with oil.
Piston rings bad , ring set and gasket set
I have the same problem with mine and the oil was like a solid almost and I don’t know how old it is but the lady who had obviously didn’t do any maintenance on it and I’m not that mechanically inclined
First thing would be to drain all the oil. Try to get as much out of it as possible. Make sure to tip it carburetor side up if you tip it over. If it's really sludgy, maybe add a bit of gasoline to help loosen it up but make sure you drain all of that out. Add some fresh oil and do not overfill. Run it for 5 to 10 minutes and then change the oil again. Hopefully this helps.
Thanks😊
No problem. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Are you’ll using 30w ?
10W30 for lawnmowers. 5W30 for snowblowers.
My zero turn looked like it ate Taco Bell it was shooting out black oil and had a lot of smoke so I decided to take off the air filter and start it that was a disaster my mower is black now any suggestions
Depends on where the oil is coming from. First, check to make sure it's not over filled. Could be a head gasket also.
How to replace a head gasket on a Troy bilt.mower with Honda engine. TB130XP
I do not have a video for this and there's no way I can explain this procedure. i recommend searching RUclips. Cheers
have exact same mower oil is at bottom of air filter will look that up thanks
Hopefully this helps you out. Cheers
Am having the same problem,have try every thing I no and what have seen in your video but is not working.
Secondly the spring was out before it was brought to my work shop,I can not have the same spring to fix it the.
What is the exact model number of your engine?
Fragram 123cc
I can send the image on WhatsApp for you.
Add me up this is my number:08130695395
@@megaengineeringsolution1911 sorry but I don't have what's app. I tried looking for a parts diagram for your engine but can't find anything. It's going to be pretty hard to help without any info on the engine. This type of engine is not available in Canada. Sorry
What about Facebook,this is my user name,Godsgift george.you see working with some few lane mower on my profile picture
Piston rings bad
Replace them is easy and gasket set
I was able to stop the oil from PCV by adjusting oil level and increasing the spring tension on the disc of the PCV system. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Bad rings blow by .
I was thinking worn rings as well.
Blow by pressurizing the crankcase.
The old oil viscosity may have been thinning out as well,allowing for more blow by.
It may be working now,but I think its days are numbered.
Question??
What's your question?
Full is full is full is as full. Reason why they added a FULL mark on the stick. You are NOT supposed to over fill past the full mark. Anything over that full mark is NOT GOOD. "Oh it's just a little bit", wrong answer. Keep it at the full mark prior to starting any air cooled engine.
Agreed. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
OMG ! ML too the DH at the MP ! Run Marvel Mystery Oil threw the crankcase about a quarter cup. Run for 20 minutes,flush, refill with oil. Or? Tear your mower apart as the PROFESSOR describes and take 2 hours. I ain't saying what I said works all the time,but for us old farts we know Marvel Mystery Oil is just that. ...A Mystery
Interesting. I see it might work in some instances. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers