How to clean your Film Negatives… How do you Clean yours?
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- I feel this is quite a cloudy area when it comes to film negatives. I thought I would share how I clean my film negatives using 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol and wipes. It has always worked well for me for clearing water marks left on my negatives after drying.
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I purchased “C-100 Total Emulsion Cleaner”. Works great. The stuff stinks, because it evaporates in 10 seconds. You get high as a kite using it. Lol.
Dang I bursted to laugh on that intro part where you show how to wash 😆
Great tips! Instead of cotton gloves I use Kitchen Prep gloves - Dust free, Latex free, cheap and thin. Also excellent for loading negatives in reels as it prevents the sweats from sticking the negatives together. Can be a problem especially in the summer. Cheers!
Thank you for the video!
I wash my negatives in ordinary liquid dishwashing detergent, every time the negatives are very clean!
I just breathe on the negatives, shiny side up and wipe with a glasses cloth and if there’s a scratch nose grease is the way to go!
For the final rinse, I use distilled water and Photo Flo. Before scanning, I use the rocket blower and an antistatic towel.
I have negs that are about 40 years old and have been kept in plastic sleeves in sealed boxes they hardly have any dust or dirt on them but if you find your negatives do have dust and dirt on them and look bad rewash them and hypo by Kodak hang them up to dry in a dust free area if they only have a slight dust this video is very useful ! Thanks!
Great video, helpful tips to clean negatives.
As you know, anything can happen in the darkroom, good, bad and ugly stuff.
Since 1973, when my B&W or color negatives get scratched, after the screaming is done, I use a product
from B&H (special order) it's EDWAL NO SCRATCH liquid, it sells for $25 an ounce!
You apply it to the emulsion side of the negative like a nail polish, and while
still wet, in the enlarger it goes, scratch is gone.. Brilliant
Cheers Carmine! I've heard of that before.
I use alcohol in pretty much the same way you showed. I rarely get streaks or spots anymore since I started using a final short dunk in PhotFlo mixed in distilled water and then hanging to drip dry without squeegee or wiping the film.
Drying marks! Ugh! Update: Thank you thank you thank you! I just did this with a negative that was important to me and it had drying spots on the shiny side and it was showing up in the prints. I did this process here and they are now pristine with no more spots! Thank you, sir! I appreciate this video very much!
Petroleum based products will always leave an oily residue because It is distilled from oil. Alcohol based products evaporate quickly leaving the gunk on the cloth or swab and for me give the cleanest negs.
I live in a hard water area and to eliminate water marks and smears I have always used a wetting agent, the tiniest merest touch in the wash, and then wiped between my wet fingers along the film length, hung up and dried.
Another tip, when in a hurry and under pressure of time, a trick I use when needing negs to dry extremely fast, I immerse the wet negs in some methylated spirits after the washing and then hang to dry, reducing drying time drastically.
In the absence of wetting agent, a minuscule amount of washing up liquid will eradicate any smears just as well.
Thank you for sharing. I have a bunch of negatives from the past that are 20+ years old and now it's time to scan them. I was looking for a solution that doesn't involve re-washing everything, and looks like I found it.
My first job when I left school was in a colour lab, developing & printing C41 and E6 film. We used to use lighter fluid to clean film when required, we would ware white cotton gloves and run the film through our fingers. The only thing was it would dry your fingers out something awful, and the smell. IPA is probably better as it’s purer and evaporates quicker. Both highly flammable so be careful!
I've seen comments here and elsewhere that isopropyl can damage emulsions.
What about PEC-12? The manufacturer labels it "Photographic Emulsion Cleaner".
It's expensive . Cheapest I've seen is almost $80/quart, $9.50/2 oz.
Guys if you want to use the best product for the job on cleaning negatives I suggest the PEC 12 Photographic Emulsion Cleaner. Its the best emulsion cleaner you can use, its 100% safe and effective, Stop using cheap products for your films as it may damage or compromise it. Use what is trusted and a well known brand recommended by professionals.
I just toss mine in the automatic washer with the ole ladies delicates... lol... I worked in a professional lab for a couple of years and all we ever used was the alcohol wipe technique. Good video Roger
Cheers. I nearly did for the start
I’ve been using PEC-12 since the days when I worked at Positive Image Photo Lab in the 80s. Great stuff.
Love the pressure meter !! useful and informative, thank you.
I use my eyeglass cleaner (alcohol + water).. seems to work just fine.. spritz just a bit on a microfiber cloth that came with it and wipe it right off.
Many years ago, from an old darkroom technician, I learned the nose grease technique. If there are scratches, while the outside of your nose with you finger, then the negative. Scary to try but works in a pinch.
It's something I have tried in the past. With not good success! My friend worked in a lab printing. He said if they got caught doing it they would be in trouble... they always did, apparently.
Thanks. I use alcohol in about the same way you showed. For more persistent stains, I wipe with alcohol several times quicly, but gently!, and then use thedémaquillage cloth.
Great really helpful video thanks! Which LED light panel and stand loupe are you using please?
Great info, Roger. I once had an issue with water marks, but started using a 2 min. final rinse in distilled water, problem solved. KB
Same here.
I use distilled water to mix my wetting agent and that solved it for me!!! My water is very hard!!!
its not so easy to get here. De-ionized is everywhere. Not distilled.
I use photoflo and that’s it. Leave them hang for four hours without looking.
When I used to use too much photoflo, it was a problem more often with marks.
Now I use a very small amount, hardly any suds, much better
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss That's weird. It's a common grocery store item in the US. We use it in our clothing iron, and I use it mixed with Photo-Flo as a final rinse, then wipe the film with a squeegee dipped in the Photo-Flo solution.
Thank you! Any information is helpful!
I'm going to watch your video again "Cheap 500mm Lens is actually NOT BAD!"
Will 91% Iso Alco work? None of the stores near me carry anything higher. I need to clean a stuck piece of napkin on a film negative of my late father.
Tried with Pure iso propyl and did a good job of cleaning the fingerprints and after scanning the film -the eyes in the image are blacked out !!
This is the best cleaning video. I use the 99.9% Isopropyl too but easy does it as you said. When I first started using it I got carried away and took off about half the emulsion. One can't over emphasize proper storage either.
Thanks for sharing!!
I use nearly the same technique and materials. I use a Kinetronics Soft Microfiber Anti-Static Cloth - 10 x 18 to lay the negs on and wet the PEC pad with alcohol and swipe the film with it while wet with the alcohol. Yes the rocket blower to speed the drying afterword.
Like others have recommended, use photoflo in water to re-wash (if you must) for sure if new film. They use to make film squeegees that looked like small tongs with soft ribbed rubber for squeegeeing the film. dip them in the water and photoflo solution first.
Why did I think we were really going to take our film into the shower 😆🤦🏻♀️
Before a cleaning a film, I'm always wash my hands or better I wash the dishes.Also I wear gloves first and I touch a cleaning cotton afterwards. Cheers!
I add 5ml of 28% ammonia to a liter of 99 % alcohol. Seems to work well. Not sure its better than straight alcohol but adding chemicals together makes me feel like a mad scientist. Its a recipe from the first edition Darkroom cookbook.
Great video and thank you for sharing this Roger.
Very welcome
Learned all I need to in the intro 🤣. Keep up the good work Boss!
Do you know how to get off the individual lamination/plastic sleeve that were put on by photo processors like Walmart?
I don't Charlene.
Thanks for the tips and advice. I was looking after a video that explain this..
My procedure is very similar to yours, except that I use PEC-12.
Ngl I had a stroke the first time I used isopropyl alcohol in the attempt of cleaning it.. it all got muddy and splotchy, I definitely ruined the poor negative (it wasn't even mine) . What could have gone wrong?
To remove dust I first give the film strip a good shake, like a whip. It is made of plastic and as long as you don't touch the surface, it is ok. Then I use a camel hair (Delta1) brush to brush off dust (don't forget to clean the brush regularly, e.g. with your blower). Finally I use the Rocket blower to blow finer dust particles away. Rocket blower is a trademark, and I have first tried those generic smaller blowers, but find them to be not very effective. I avoid cotton gloves as much as possible because the cotton fibres themselves generate dust, but sometimes one just needs them to avoid touching the surface of the negatives (I hate rubber gloves because they are awkward to put on and to take off). -- If you have streaks from drying they can be removed with a drop of water on a cotton swap. I guess one needs alkohol to remove grease spots, but is it better to avoid those in the first place...
Personally I wouldn't put water back in the film but if it works for you then it works. I've never tried
Thank You, I will try this way sir!
Best of luck!
Thanks Roger! very useful information. Tetenal Graphic Art Cleaner makes a good job, when needed.
Great tips, I am just getting nto film photography 35mm, and I have just bought a few rolls of hp5. I also have the opportunity of a durst DA900 enlarger which is a condenser type enlarger, which I believe you use this type. Now I have just come across an article that states because condenser type gives more contrast than a diffuser type enlarger, you should reduce your developing time. I'd love your input. It also says negs need to be really clean because the condenser type will show every spec of dust. But they deliver much sharper prints than diffuser types
Correct John. My condenser enlarger shows every bit of crap on the neg! It's a harder hitting light source where as the Diffuser enlarger bounces and diffuses the light which is more forgiving on dust and hair. Also diffuser I believe renders a lower contrast.
I don't have a problem with water stains now because the final wash has a few drops of washing up liquid added which works a treat. I di have a few old negs from the 70/80s with water marks and I have thought about using alcohol or even some deionised/distilled water and a micro fibre cloth.
Back to the conflicting online forums, washing up liquid may not be good over time, lol. I use it too sometimes!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm a cheapskate 🙂
Start with 80 grit and then move up to a 1000 grit wet sandpaper
😂😂
😁😳🫣
I think you are doing it right!!!
All my photos and negatives have been damaged in a flood. They are stuck together and wet. The chemicals are coming off them. Are they salvageable?
That's bad news 😔. I've had negs stuck together in the past and if you try and pull them apart they are ruined. I would be inclined to run a warm sink and let the negs sit in there for a while under inspection and see if they free themselves. Good luck 🤞
First tip 'handle with care' Learn not to be careless or ham fisted throughout the whole process especially loading film onto a developing spool for instance, if you have sweaty hands wear gloves. My final rinse I add a couple of drops of washing liquid, for me I find this lessons alkaline stains.
For decades now I've used an old mirror!! To cut the film into strips. a cloth over one end which I lay the emulsion side down making sure the mirror surface is very clean then with an old plastic ruler and craft knife I cut my strips. Yes, I use glasses cleaning cloths when necessary, never ever chemicals, prevention better than a cure mindset.
Thanks Malcolm.
I just breathe on the negatives shiny side up of course and wipe with a glasses cloth🤷♀️
👍If it works for you it'll do for me, great morning coffee time viewing....thanks.
Thanks , very informative !
Thank you but I don’t like the idea of going close to the emulsion side… maybe blowing air only
You have to be careful! Sometimes you need to. Careful with the air. I've never used it because some say it can spit. You can always rewash the negs
Can you please give me some tips on how to clean neagtives way back in the 80's up to early year 2000. Thank you and God bless 🙏❤️
Very carefully if they are very old negatives! I would use the alcohol still as I showed in this video but would test on the edge of the film first both. Just to make sure it doesn't take the emulsion off or make the negative tacky.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you so much and God bless 🙏❤️
Good advice there!!!
really useful info great work
Glad you liked it
I have a very fine haired and delicate Sable brush somewhere, It is great for lenses, maybe I can dust off negatives with it?
I'm sure it would work fine Baz! Thanks for becoming a member and your support!
I was just water rinse and dry after the alcohol, especially since the next step after fixing is a water rinse
I’ve read that you should use the highest percentage of alcohol you can, since water will damage slide emulsions
hello, on my kodak vision 2 i accidentally poured ethanol inside the canister while loading it. I plan on selling them anyways if they are not damaged by alcohol. Do you think it is ruined already or maybe it will not be affected at all?
A bit of a preventative measure I've found useful: Paper coffee filters. Fold the filter in half around the strip, GENTLY dab - don't drag - the stationary filter between your fingers. Lift and fold again down the strip and get a new one as necessary. Works well at avoiding steaks I normally otherwise get on 35mm.
"Wouldn't recommend rewashing old negatives" Alright, but some of my decades old film are filthy. What am I supposed to do if I can't wash them? (What's the difference between "wash" and "rewash"?)
Any recommendations to clean old slides and negatives (most are color)? Thanks!
I've never tried slides Max
Thanks for this video! actually I'm having a hard time finding tips for my case... I've found some really old negatives from my grandfather, they are from the 30's and 40's and are really really dirty. What would you do in this case?
Wow. You'll want to be careful Ivan. I'm not sure how delicate the emulsion would be at that age. Maybe try the 99% alcohol and test one of the negatives that looks like it's a bad photo, blurry, a back yard maybe? If that makes sense. Just very lightly clean the negative. Hope you find a way they sound priceless to you
Thanks for sharing your approach, a bit like cleaning my DSLR sensor - has to be done but scares the perverbal out of me. As a developer - scanner, keeping the scan platten glass is more of an issue. Lucky to live in a soft water area, so a few drops of wetting agent, drying in drying tent and the use of cotton gloves minimise the chance of having to reach for the alcohol......
Would you recommend to use same same cleaning materials for slides? (Dispositive)? I have lots of 65 years old slides to scan!
I have not tried it on slides. I imagine so but without testing I wouldn't like to say
Wonderful recommendation!! May I ask, where did you purchase the picture frames on the wall behind you? Thanks!!
From Dunelm a home depot store. Pretty cheap about £7 each
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks!!
I got around 50 developed rolls, stored for more than 40 years. What will be your advice to make them flat before cutting them in stripes for sheet storage?
Yikes! Yes they would be very curly after 40 years I imagine! I've o kybhad a few rolls in the past that have been clock springs! I've got them into sleeves and left the sleeve in heavy books for a few weeks. They flattened a bit but not great. They flattened more over the years in my neg folder amongst all the weight of the others
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss cheers
can you clean old slides the same way i have a load from my grandparents that was in there loft before i scan them in.
I'm not sure about slides but I imagine so as long as you remove the frame first
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss i do have a few that are done for will try them 1st thanks for the info
Hai, how do you wash and dry film ? Next video...😁👍
I have recently seen streaks on my negs which are the result of using Kodak Wetting agent. I still use the agent but I then give them a quick rinse in deionised water. Seems to work.
PS: most of the dust embeded on the negs, get there during the drying stage. While the film is drying both sides of the film are very sticky, so please do take care to dry the negs in a clean environment. In the old times I had a drying tent. Not these days, sadly.
I use my small bathroom and close the door. Now and again I get a damn spec floating. I don't steam beforehand as most of the time it is fine. Drying Cabinets are expensive.
I'm using film cleaner if it's really dirty.
hey, what is the led surface your using?
I never clean mine and I never have dust on my prints. Go figure
so you leave them with drying marks on, or you never get those?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I get lucky I don’t seem to get them much. I do photoflo and hang in my spare bathroom with the door closed for 4 hours and they’re ok
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I’ll also add that when I used too much photoflo in the past that’s when I got the white drying marks but I use a lot less now, and I don’t see them anymore.
I just use alcohol microfibre Glasses lens wipes 🥲 1 pound from home bargains they come in a orange box