Wait the water pump Polly doesn’t need to be torqued down, I was one was loose on mine after it was replaced at a shop and I hand tightened it! You think that’s good enough, and the serpentine belt moved a little when I tightened it, that’s normal right? My bad super new to cars
Nice! Which Milwaukee is that (e.g. the one you used to remove the crank bolt)? I'm quite impressed that a 3/8 could take this off since a) that bolt is crazy tight and b) it's unlikely any cordless 1/2 drive impact guns could fit into that space without removing or repositioning the AC condenser.
@craigwalsh8116 I really thought I'd have to use my IR pneumatic 1/2" drive impact as I've done before on this car 60k miles or so ago but the 3/8" Milwaukee with 1/2" adapter for my impact socket worked. I was shocked and impressed. I'm sure I torqued it last time too, if I didn't it's held on for 7 years...
@@allforwheelsgarage I did mine almost 6 years ago and tried some air impacts without success. I now have an Astro Thor air impact that I believe will fit and it's a bit of a monster, so hoping that will do the job. Last time, my friend and I spent a good 4 hours trying various approaches to try to get this bolt off and had to finally resort to using a special pully holding tool, 3/4 breaker bar and cheater pipes to get this off. While I've only put about 50k miles on since that service, I need to repeat the job to replace the leaking VVTI pulley (I tried just replacing the o-ring with the pulley still attached, but this didn't fix the leak). Btw, I like that you used the proper timing marks, though those are the ones that indicate 30 degrees before TDC, not TDC. Placing the engine at 30 before TDC orients the pistons such that accidentally rotating the camshafts during camshaft pulley removal will not result in piston to valve contact. Also, very clear info. Much appreciated!
@craigwalsh8116 This video is of my 03 IS300 5-speed, I also had an 01 automatic I did a few years ago. On the automatic one, I had to use a chain strap wrench on the crankshaft pulley to hold it and a 3' long 3/4" breaker bar with a 5' pipe over it. I thought I was gonna break the crankshaft trying to get that bot off. I had no choice on that car though because it had a blown head gasket. This is the 3rd TB I've put on this car, the first was when I bought it back in 2012 @109k miles, the previous owner did it but didn't do the seals so the VVT cam gear and front seals were leaking. Then again @ 180k 6 or 7 years ago. Then now @189k because of the water pump. I did the water pump last time too but the car hasn't been driven muck in the past 5 years so I think the bearing just went bad from sitting.
Wait the water pump Polly doesn’t need to be torqued down, I was one was loose on mine after it was replaced at a shop and I hand tightened it! You think that’s good enough, and the serpentine belt moved a little when I tightened it, that’s normal right? My bad super new to cars
Nice! Which Milwaukee is that (e.g. the one you used to remove the crank bolt)? I'm quite impressed that a 3/8 could take this off since a) that bolt is crazy tight and b) it's unlikely any cordless 1/2 drive impact guns could fit into that space without removing or repositioning the AC condenser.
@craigwalsh8116 I really thought I'd have to use my IR pneumatic 1/2" drive impact as I've done before on this car 60k miles or so ago but the 3/8" Milwaukee with 1/2" adapter for my impact socket worked. I was shocked and impressed. I'm sure I torqued it last time too, if I didn't it's held on for 7 years...
@@allforwheelsgarage I did mine almost 6 years ago and tried some air impacts without success. I now have an Astro Thor air impact that I believe will fit and it's a bit of a monster, so hoping that will do the job. Last time, my friend and I spent a good 4 hours trying various approaches to try to get this bolt off and had to finally resort to using a special pully holding tool, 3/4 breaker bar and cheater pipes to get this off. While I've only put about 50k miles on since that service, I need to repeat the job to replace the leaking VVTI pulley (I tried just replacing the o-ring with the pulley still attached, but this didn't fix the leak).
Btw, I like that you used the proper timing marks, though those are the ones that indicate 30 degrees before TDC, not TDC. Placing the engine at 30 before TDC orients the pistons such that accidentally rotating the camshafts during camshaft pulley removal will not result in piston to valve contact. Also, very clear info. Much appreciated!
@craigwalsh8116 This video is of my 03 IS300 5-speed, I also had an 01 automatic I did a few years ago. On the automatic one, I had to use a chain strap wrench on the crankshaft pulley to hold it and a 3' long 3/4" breaker bar with a 5' pipe over it. I thought I was gonna break the crankshaft trying to get that bot off. I had no choice on that car though because it had a blown head gasket. This is the 3rd TB I've put on this car, the first was when I bought it back in 2012 @109k miles, the previous owner did it but didn't do the seals so the VVT cam gear and front seals were leaking. Then again @ 180k 6 or 7 years ago. Then now @189k because of the water pump. I did the water pump last time too but the car hasn't been driven muck in the past 5 years so I think the bearing just went bad from sitting.