Sir... that was a masterpiece ! Just when you know you think you've just started to (slightly) begin to understand something (etc.)... that's when a true master shows up. These were some (soooo !) well spent 25 minutes, and I'll be having another go very soon. And you're giving a ride for their money to all those DIYers who dare calling themselves "calibration experts" or "color correction specialists". When they'd just better stick to drinking a good fresh pint ! Personally, I don't know shit about calibration... and prefer to keep silent and listen when a colour-artist offers his skills to us... mere mortals of the RGB parallel world. Immensely, thank you.
Sir this video is extremely helpful. Watching from the start till the end. A huge respect to you. At first I want to get a SpyderX for $143 (great performance for the price). Since i1 Display Pro Plus cost $350 here (older i1 display pro is just $30 cheaper). But after watching this I think 200 bucks will be justified in the long run. X-Rite seem to have a very long support for their products and the most important thing is its accuracy is still unmatched.
Maybe, but first you should double check that your screen is worth it. Many screens with Tn or no LUT are not well fit to be calibrated. That is where your money is well spent. BenQ Sw270 is a great start for under $600
@@philindeblanc Hello Phil, what about for a Dell U2715H? I am going crazy with this calibrators world.... Does the SpyderX will work fine for this monitor or better de Xrite?
Amazing explanation on the subject, thank you! I started researching about a used spyder 5 and ended up here at 4am even though my only camera is the one in my smartphone lol
Hello Sir! Thank you for your efforts in putting forth this quality information! I was very much confused between these colorimeters and was unable to make a solid decision. This comparison method is the best. I am now clear that X-Rite is the best one for my use. Thanks Again
Great content! I love that you cover important details that most tutorials just repeat the same old info. I’d love to see even more printing videos from you in detail with making fine art prints in mind.
Cheers Kyle 🍻 He-he, the last printing videos I did were not as well viewed as I'd imagine they would be when I made 'em! But nonetheless I've got a few more to do, and would detailed 10min individual paper reviews be of interest?
@@AndyAstbury Yes sir to paper reviews. I bought my first pro printer(Pixma Pro 100) this year and have become rather obsessed with fine art papers from Canson, Hahnemuhle and Moab. I've seen many of the product videos from those companies but often they're only a couple minutes each. I would definitely watch yours if you choose to make them. I'm still learning the printing craft and have come quite a ways, I still struggle with getting neutral black and white prints, but getting better. I'd also be interested in hearing your thoughts on paper varnishes, sprays, etc. I haven't tried any of them and not even sure I should. Great work, I'll be working my way through all your videos. Take care.
just started watching this vid. I am a Polish lad and i was looking for someone to share some opinion about this subject supported with experience not paid partnership like these fancy channels ... Thank you SIR ! LOTS OF RESPECT !
Mega insightful Andy! I have been pushing forward getting myself a screen calibration tool, your very detailed and technical insight definitely has helped me to understand their nuances and exact working a lot better. Many thanks!
Mr Andy, thank you for your work, it really makes quite easy to understand color calibration and the tools needed. Your information is truly valuable and I find it surprising the amount of videos with inaccurate information with a much higher visit count. Excuse my English, it's not my first language. Also I'm going to get ahead of myself here an give you a suggestion from my side and experience managing youtube channels on the 50k-100k range, which is that should optimize your video titles and video tags to make them compete and become easier to find users. This process is quite simple... whenever we write an query on youtube search bar, the autocomplete shows us a list of suggested searched. This suggestions are based on organic user inputs, so if I write down "color calibrate" youtube gives a list of suggestions which are basically a list of videos to be made, or possible titles that can help or fix another persons problem. i.E. "how to calibrate a monitor" gives suggestions such us: "how to calibrate a monitor without a colorimeter", "how to calibrate a monitor for photo editing", "how to calibrate a monitor for gaming", "how to calibrate a monitor for video editing", "how to calibrate monitor for photography ". This can be used as titles as well as video tags, which will help a great deal in making your valuable experience and information easier to find. You can use this in different ways, from getting video ideas to optimizing previous content. Another example of how to take this would be doing "How to choose a monitor for" series with those suggestions, and naming a video playlist "how to choose a monitor" which would rank up on youtube organic search results. In the long run this will be like a "snowball" effect, getting more views to your videos. This is type of informative vids and tutorials are known as "evergreen content" which have a long time value and can consistantly make views in the long run. Sorry for long explanation, but I do appreciate knowledge from professionals so all explained above was with good intented as you have helped me understand better color calibration! On other side of things, the link provided takes me to the X-Rite i1Display Studio, I know it is a little more affordable than the Display Pro, would you recommend it? Or would you recommend buying a used one? I ask this since my country customs has a law that products over $200 must pay additional taxes and fees which takes the price of Display pro from $240 to $325, quite a jump here in Peru Cheers!!
Hi Luca, thank you for your kind words and advice 🍻👍 If you print your images and want to make custom profiles the Studio would be the best buy - ruclips.net/video/U0erT7XNhhE/видео.html But if all you want to do is calibrate your monitor then the Display Pro is my recommendation.
@@AndyAstbury Mr Andy, sorry I was refering between the i1Display Studio ($150 amazon) from your link: amzn.to/2Yq7bHN it is the display version, not the i1Studio ($450 amazon) I'm on the budget so may I ask, is the i1Display Studio (amzn.to/2Yq7bHN) worth the while? Or Should I go straight to the i1Display pro? Thanks again 👏
Great comparison. I have an old ColorMunki device still (one of the original ones from well over 10 years ago). The only problem is, it isn't directly supported by hardware calibration for some monitors that support hardware calibration.
Excellent video and information. I’m now going to go to the “interweb” to see if you’ve done a video on profiling the results of calibration - software used, etcetera. I would also like to see a comparison between the X-Rite i1 Display Pro (Plus) and the i1 Studio Spectrophotometer (updated colormunki) specifically for monitor calibration. I want the ability to profile my printer and paper, but I’m concerned about monitor calibration limitations of the i1 Studio.
Cheers David! Does this video I made ruclips.net/video/U0erT7XNhhE/видео.html answer your needs? It's a bit of a ramble, about black points etc but if you stick with it to the end I think you might find it interesting.
@@AndyAstbury thanks very much for the video. Normally, I don’t like rambling, but yours is very entertaining and informative. Excellent video. I am currently deciding on a colorimeter, monitor, and possibly a spectrophotometer. I will be doing some printing at home up to A3 size. I’ve narrowed it to an X-Rite solution, but It turns out that X-Rite is making the decision difficult by crippling the calibration functionality of the i1 Studio (using the same software as the discontinued i1 Display Studio), and using completely different, (presumably more robust), software for the x1 Display Pro. Not a huge concern with a hardware monitor where I will use the manufacturer’s software, but I will be using a second monitor and laptop, so not all the displays will have hardware LUTs. I’ve watched your i1 Studio video also, which doesn’t really address this concern. Would be great of X-Rite had a thorough functionality checklist on their web site, so I could understand the trade-offs better. Off-the-subject, I’ve narrowed the monitors to the similarly priced (in the US) 32” BenQ SW321c, and the Eizo CS2740. I like the 32”, but I’m guessing the 10 bit Eizo might be ever so slightly more accurate than the 8bit + FRC BenQ. Both have 16 bit LUTs?
Either the BenQ or Eizo require hardware calibration - PaletteMaster for the former, ColorNavigator (like mine in the video) for Eizo - so XRite software is irrelevant as it will not support hardware calibration. Forget about XRite software and software calibration in general - it's nothing but a pain in the arse.
Hi, Andy. First time caller. Hope this covid saga is keeping you well. A brillaint and thorough review, first I've ever seen with a real technical and evaluative comparison of popular calibrators. I've got the spyder5 due to budget constraints, plus my work is not on a commercial level per se, so I think for me the spyder5 suffices. Though I remember when I purchased mine, Datacolor then released the Spyder5 X shortly after, and I was somewhat miffed. Oh well. I kind of knew the limilations of the spyder5 from the outset and one thing I did do was, NOT to use the datacolor software, Instead I use Displaycal which you probably know of. From what I read, It does a much better job at calibrating, though a longer time run time, but the results should be better (I assume), though I cannot truly compare to other tools. I thought it was the best approach I could take to get maximum accuracy for the Spyder5. I'd be very curious to find out how accurate or different Displaycal would treat the same three calibrators, in comparison to your Eizo monitor system. I'm not asking for you to do a video, just pondering. Incidentally, I recenlty tried to get my head around in calibratting my TV using a program called HCFR, which uses the same data libraries as displaycal; ArgyllCMS. To me the results look better, but also I also question myself. Is this correct? ha. Anyway thats all.
Cheers - covid is keeping away from this house so far, I'm just hoping it doesn't delay the wifes much needed cancer surgery. When you run a hardware calibrated system like I do it's not a good idea to put software calibration on it, because one works on the monitor, the other on the GPU - so there is no chance I can do a video on it! But I know someone who uses DisplayCal, and we tested all 3 devices on his machine and got the same results - just another version of the level playing field test. If I was using a software calibrated system and Datacolor hardware I would I think use DisplayCal, but if I was using XRite hardware then I think I'd be using XRite i1 software. As for TV calibration I would have thought Rec709 or Rec2020 would be standard?
@@AndyAstbury Oh dear, this covid crisis truly has created vortex of chaos. My nan is also awaiting surgery, but not a s crucial as cancer surgery. I truly hope she gets it soon, and gets to good health asap. I would suggest turmeric, a powerful anti inflammatory and more, as a general preventative. Not a miracle spice, but also is a miracle spice, akin to taking vitamin C. Anyway, thanks for the reply. I see what you mean, your monitor being a hardware device. My thinking was just of curiosity of said tools, though perhaps not using the Eizo as the testing ground. Though, as you said, someone has tested my curiosity and the results were similar, fair enough. I've only got a Dell U2417H, which is a 6bit +FRC type and not true 8bit, however that works, although it does cover 99% sRGB, cant recall Adobe RGB. I do agree, If I had the Xrite or colormunki type hardware I would definately use their software, though knowing me I'd still test them with DisplayCal ha. I would probably use DisplayCal with SpyderX too. I once had a Pantone Huey, now that was atrocious. Correct, for my 1080p TV, I've calibated to Rec709. I think Rec2020 is for 4K? The results look very different to the built in Pro cinema mode, especially the greyscale and black levels, not that I can be assured the Spyder5 is calibrating correctly, also the HCFR program is mind boggling to use. I've left the colour calibration alone for now. Still, an intersting experiment.
Cheers 🍻 I've never managed to get a straight answer from Datacolor as to what the Spyder Print is - colorimeter or spectrophotometer. They use the term spectrocolorimeter, which is somewhat meaningless - it's either one or the other! I would never use a colorimeter to profile a printer. But if Datacolor want to send me a Spyder Print then I would do a fair test of it for sure.
thanks Andy, very good video full of valuable information. I'm just b amateur photographer but I keep my work flow color managed. I have both i1 display pro as well as spyder5 colorimeter. I have 3 questions after watching your video. Q1: you recommended i1 because the delta E resulted is smaller, I always think delta E is a attribute of the monitor, colorimeter is the instrument to measure it, from the 3 sets should the results be interpreted as spyder able to pick up the difference? or your tablet is from validation step so delta e is already taking into account the quality of profile? Q2: in the process of monitor calibration, I only rely on the size of gamut to compare the quality of colorimeter, I simply take larger the better. But the accuracy on luminance and white point, how can we end user judge or all we can do is relying on the colorimeter？Q3: If i use both i1 and spyder and find the gamut of a display much smaller than it should be , says P3 vs Srgb, can I conclude it is monitor hardware problem or any possibility it just ptoblem of wrong display setting, or wrong calibration software setting?
Firstly, you don't say if you are on a hardware or software calibrated system, but here goes... DeltaE 2000 variation is the difference between the created profile and the standard ISO12646 test values, so it's an 'attribute' of the profile's accuracy and not the monitor per se. That being the case, the device which produces a profile with the lowest deltaE variation against the ISO12646 standard is the most accurate. With monitors, for me personally, colour accuracy is down to 'neutrality' of grey scale balance - this is more important than gamut volume; though a neutral grey balance usually results in the biggest volume. P3 - you mean Display P3? That's the factory default for Mac laptops if I'm not mistaken. I don't carry out colour-critical work on such a screen. But I do calibrate the screen all the same, again to a neutral grey balance and correct 110/120 cdm2. But the process of calibration of these types of screen usually results in a slightly smaller gamut volume because you are calibrating the on-chip GPU, which in a lot of cases is barely 8bit before you start calibration - it's software calibration as opposed to hardware calibration. If you are not using a monitor that supports hardware calibration, you need to be careful of 'double profiling' when testing different calibrator devices. In such a system, the application of a monitor profile 'warps' the GPU output, so you need to 'unwarp' said GPU output before you recalibrate with a second device. If you don't do that, by removing the first profile, then you end up 'double profiling', which will always result in a smaller gamut volume, and the more you do it the smaller it'll get.
Great video! I was totally sold on the X-write so bought the Pro version for my fairly new Windows PC. The software crashed on 2 attempts to load, and on the third try wiped out my Windows instance. So although I was really impressed with your video, not so with XWrite. Returned it and will try SpyderX.
Thank you for this in-depth video! Fascinating. I'm a graphic designer, not a photographer, and I'm not currently printing any photography. I'm wondering then if my contrast ratio actually should be greater than 400:1 to account for how images are experienced on digital screens... Is this the case, or would it still be best to get the target contrast ratio between 300:1 and 400:1? I believe you also mentioned that you went with the default settings for contrast for these colorimeters. Do you actually have the ability to set a target contrast ratio ?
Hi Andy. I am happy to see your this objective video. I want to buy a monitor calibrator and i want to use it on new monitors in the future. What do you think about calibrite display plus hl? Many people say Display Plus HL is less sensitive to measuring grays and blacks than the regular Calibrite Display Plus. I have Asus Proart PA329CV monitor. I'm realy confused. Which one do you think makes more sense?
Good question! I can't attest to any Calibrite devices because they don't deem me important enough to send me one for review! But for anything related to colour calibration that I've not covered, here's the one place I WOULD go to......... Keith Cooper, Northlight Images....... I know he has reviewed at least one Calibrite device. And Calibrite is really Xrite anyway, so I reckon they're a safe bet. But do check out Keith's channel - no nonesense or bullshit, and been in the game as long as me. PLUS, he's a much nicer chap than me!!!
@@AndyAstbury Thank you so much for answering. Unfortunately brands are not brave enough to send products to objective content creators. I'm in the same situation. Your detailed explanation of the differences is very clear for us. You should keep going. I'm gonna go ask Keith Cooper now. Take care yorself. Keep going Andy. Love from Turkey ✌
Just what I was looking for! Thanks for a data-driven comparison between the devices! I hope you see this comment, but should I use the X1’s native software or ColorNavigator?
I'll be getting the i1studio since its more budget-friendly - I have a 31.5" UHD 4K monitor from LG running on an old MacBook pro-2012 for graphic design and slight video editing. This is my first monitor, and I'm new to the tech world, so I'd appreciate it if you could steer me in the right direction of what calibration software to use and \/or settings. Thanks a ton for your wisdom!
I can recommend the i1Studio - I use one myself. You COULD buy one via this page bit.ly/3bLmdfP - that would help the channel a lot! Personally I'd go with a 2.5K instead of 4K, but it depends if you are doing photo (2.3/2.5K) or graphics/video (4k). Either way, if you get an i1Studio you will get the i1 software - use that, it'll sort things out for you very easily. If you set your target for D65 white point, 100/120 candelas per square meter and a gamma of 2.2 you will be working at industry standard specs.
Hi Andy thanks for posting this very useful info. I have a JVC NX7 projector and have calibrated it using my Spyder X with JVC's Auto Cal software and have good results. Well they seem good to my eye. Due to your comparison in this video, how much better would the Xrite i1pro2 be in getting a result with the JVC Auto Cal software. I use the JVC software as it is better than the Spyders and a lot of people in the Home Theatre game are also using it with the JVC projectors.
Here where I live the x-Rite was being sold at 210 €, while the SpyderX was on discount at 99€... I mean, I kind of need a decent calibrator since I'm an architect, but the price difference on the SpyderX was a no brainer for me even if the quality is lower.
Hey Andy! First and foremost I would like to say thank you for being such a valuable resource! It’s hard to find people that you can really trust on the Internet, and you seem to be one of the few that I really do. I do have a question... I work in video, and I’m faced with the following: - Calibrate my display only, and maintain 4K Or - Run through a DeckLink (Essentially removes the GPUs adjustments out of the picture), calibrate from there, but only get 1080p Obviously, the latter will deliver the best results, but what degree of differences are we talking here? Enough for a prosumer to worry about, or would you say I’m good with just calibrating the monitor?
Thanks for that NEB 🍻🍻 From the outset let me say I know less than nothing about video - I have a hard enough time with desktop recordings and my Osmo Pocket in Camtasia! But, I would have to say that my advice would be to calibrate the display and maintain your 4K. Like with stills your monitor is the window on to your video - if you know it's correctly calibrated and your video looks "off" then you can accurately correct it in the edit. If you use a 'hardware calibrated monitor' (Eizo,NEC,BenQ) then there are no GPU adjustments to get rid of. Hope this helps
Hi sir, I really could not understand the final conclusion and I hope you'll help me to get the best answer, I am a photographer and all of my works are shared as a hobby via the social media like instagram \ facebook etc... And I want to know if color calibrator tool is something I need I am using the Dell U2720Q display which is great. and if I'll need a color calibrator with which one should I start? the SpyderX Pro? the X-Rite i1Display Studio? or should I put an extra money for the X-Rite i1Display Pro? thanks for any answer you can give! I put my sub on your channel :]
Hi Shalev - the XRite was best in this head to head test. Every monitor NEEDS calibrating. All three calibrators in this test will make your monitor better for photography purposes, so buy which ever fits your budget - the XRite just has the edge for colour neutrality. I can't comment on the i1Display Studio as I haven't had one to test.
Hello.... soomuch info on this vdeo :) ..I have a benq2420PT and a huion camvas13 tablet hooked on to a laptop ..i am trying to match the tablet(120% srgb) and the external screen(100% srgb and around 90+argb) but i am unable to create proiles which can bring it close(like even bringin down the more capable monitor).. i had a spider elite but it creates just one icc profile.. (tiossed it) what do you suggest that can create something for this pair and scan prints as well.... i'm unsure between which spyder or xrite will be successful
Have you ever used DisplayCal? I use the i1 Dispaly Pro and get much better results using DisplayCal. I say buy the cheaper Colour Monki (same hardware as the i1 DP) and use DisplayCal to calibrate your screen.
It's okay for me, because manufacturers send this stuff to me for free! Out of preference, I would stay away from DataColor and choose XRite, but the differences are negligible and a Spyder 5 will be better than not calibrating at all.
Hello, help make the right choice. I need a calibrator for the main monitor is BenQ SW271 I use the monitor to work with photos, graphics, video, and pre-print preparation. Looked at the "ColorMunki Display or i1Display Pro?" I saw that the ColorMunki Display started working with i1Studio software. Will it give me the opportunity to receive a calibration report with ColorMunki Display as you have? I need to understand what happened before the calibration and what happened after calibration in the details and numbers like yours. I use Windows 10 machine! If I work in Adobe RGB and sRGB do I need to calibrate each color space or only one? What should be the parameters of the monitor before calibration, (color space, brightness, etc.) Will I have compatibility issues with ColorMunki Display and BenQ SW271?
Not using BenQ I cannot say 100% certainly, but I don't see why you would have a problem. The CM Display is NOT the same device as the i1 and the i1 is the more accurate device as I understand. Colour management is really simple - it's the screen you are calibrating so once this is done properly you can use any colour space in Photoshop you wish.
Something is wrong here, because that monitor doesn’t display that much gamut compared to adobeRGB, like you’re showing at the end. Is the CLUT remapping that gamut down into the smaller native space or something?
I bought the Spyder 5 elite and hate that there's a key to use it. Should have been baked into the device itself. I don't have ANY clue where the key is in my house. SO, that's neat.
Hi, thanks for your explanation, I have an IMac and an Eizo cs240 connected, Do you think is correct to use on the IMac the same profile that I have from the calibration of the Eizo monitor, or I need to calibrate separatly the IMac and if so, I need to use colornavigator for the IMac or I can only use the spider software? Thanks for your help.
Hi Luigi - does your iMac have an HDMI out? If so then get an HDMI to DVI cable and drive the Eizo that way. But which ever way you have the Eizo connected you need to use ColorNavigator and plug your calibrator into the Eizo NOT the iMac. Do not use the Eizo profile for the iMac screen, the Eizo is capable of displaying MANY more colours - pretty much AdobeRGB - but your iMac screen is more like sRGB - its display color space is very much smaller. Your setup can be very good - I used the same setup when I used to do print workshops for a big retailer here in the UK - works like a dream.
Andy I’m about to upgrade my system. Probably iMac. Do these monitors need calibrating? And will Colour Monki or equivalent do the job. Thanks for your videos. I’m Lightroom 6 and Elements but trying to learn Affinity. Thanks
All monitors need calibrating, even those on iMac. There is not a single screen on the planet that doesn't need calibration for colour critical work to ICC standard. Any calibration device is better than no calibration! If you only need your screen calibrated and you have no need for add-ons like spot colour measurement etc then stick with a colorimeter. My recommendation would be the i1 Display Pro. The Spyder X looks pretty good in the test and is a bit cheaper, then there is the ColorMunki Display which folk say is good but I have no experience of to be honest. Hope this helps.
SpyderX is as good as x-rite for all monitors at 1500eur and below. Did some testing and haven't found any significant superriority of x-rite in this class of monitors. X-rite is only better with proffesional moniyors that has all the bells and whistles.
Thank you for this video. But I have one minor thought: If I’m not mistaken, but simply by comparing the color spaces between the Spyder X and the i1 Display Pro in your video, I wouldn’t state that the i1 Display Pro is „more accurate“ then the Spyder X. The Spyder X, in your measurements, is representing a slightly bigger colorspace, except for the „reddish“ or „dark orange“.
Hello, you seem like you know a lot about this stuff, i would like to buy a colorimeter for my monitor preferably under 200€ as i'm not a content creator and i think it will do the job fine, i found X-Rite i1 display studio for 160€ or Datacolor SpiderX Pro for 200€, is the SpiderX worth the extra 40€? The X-Rite i1 Pro is 250€ not sure what are the diffrences between Pro and Studio version. Thanks.
@@AndyAstbury Thank you, very good video, the studio version looks exactly like something i want, affordable, easy to use, but i really miss that option to verify the icc profile, how do i know if it's calibrated right? Is there any other program that can measure all the values let's say before and after calibration?
There are some issue problem with my i1 Display Pro that is old model now. It calibrated to quite too warm cast on white balance. That's something need to be fixed but I am pretty sure the device I bought from may not have been properly tested in factory before shipping to all shops. If it has not been calibrated to meet the calibration certification for the accuracy then this is not an accurate device at all.
Well if that's really the case it's the first time I've ever heard of it happening. Have you tried contacting them? If you software calibrate then it could also be the monitor or the GPU - hence I hardware calibrate as this removes the GPU and operating system/driver from the equation. Also, if you have let the calibration tile get dirty or discolored then that will throw an error too.
@@AndyAstbury Yes on Windows software most of time when using calibration it end up into GPU. My monitor does not have built in hardware calibration (DDC) unfortunately. So I end up manual entering white balance and brightness before commencing it with Dispcal and it save into GPU and the ICC/ICM file. I don't buy expensive fancy monitor for photos editing. LG monitor does not do very good job with factory default white balance same goes with LG TV, most are looking cold (blue) to me. Imo manual entering white balance before starting calibration do not end up as accurate as very expensive monitor with built in hardware calibration with DDC. So it may tend to look a bit off to me. The device I bought was from retail store so each unit will be vary. I cannot guarantee this unit I bought is accurate due to without NIST calibration certification. The only one I see is accurate like Portrait Displays C6 HDR2000 due to comes with NIST certification. It would have been nice if X-Rite does offer NIST certification. Imo the accuracy from i1 display pro is okay enough to me, not perfect with my visual from what I see.
Okay I may have done it wrong in dispcal possibly. This time I leave it as default like auto things. And I did only adjustment like manual white balance and brightness before calibration goes ahead. And then I did verification and it was better than last time with lower error number. I think the main problem with most of LG monitor has too strong blue led edge or full array back light making calibration more difficult as some calibrator are trying to over correct the white balance so sometimes it may look too warm, it might need further adjustment or try again to get it right. This time it came out better and I am happy with that this time. Sony TV I bought beats LG as it has almost the most accurate ever. I don't know how Sony do it. I have Sony X900H here in Australia. The monitor I use is LG gaming gear 32GK650F. Old LG TV I use to have was terrible with so blue cast and not bright enough and I got rid of it gave it to dad, it was 55UJ65T. I know Sony TV do not have as good refresh rate/input lag rate as LG is although I prefer accurate colours over it anyway. Only tiny bit of problem from Sony TV is red colour is not perfect as it sometime causes magenta cast. Wish Sony should make monitor, would be nice to have.
I appreciate your work, but your method is flawed. All colorimeters are flawed. They have a *- deviation within each unit of each model, and they have an overall accuracy, hence why some models are way more expensive, than others. When you're doing the validation, you should use a colorimeter that is much more expensive, than the tested models. Now, I'm in no doubt the X-rite i1display Pro is the better choice anyway. Calibration software for TVs that cost thousands of dollars, like Calman 5 software, only supports the I1display Pro for the same reason, when we're talking about "cheap" colorimeters. Hence why I own the X-rite. Unfortunately the software that comes with the I1display Pro sucks. It's not very accurate, hence why I use DisplayCAL for calibrating my monitors. The problem with the original software to the i1Display Pro, is that you can calibrate two very different monitors, and they don't look alike, after calibration. They do, using DisplayCAL. And that software is 100% free!
As I have said in many videos, colourimeters are not as good as spectros, but the rest of your comment is bloody pointless. This test uses THE SAME target settings, on THE SAME monitor, using three different devices, THEREFORE, it is a level playing field test - and the software used to do the test is irrelevant.
Sir... that was a masterpiece !
Just when you know you think you've just started to (slightly) begin to understand something (etc.)... that's when a true master shows up. These were some (soooo !) well spent 25 minutes, and I'll be having another go very soon.
And you're giving a ride for their money to all those DIYers who dare calling themselves "calibration experts" or "color correction specialists". When they'd just better stick to drinking a good fresh pint !
Personally, I don't know shit about calibration... and prefer to keep silent and listen when a colour-artist offers his skills to us... mere mortals of the RGB parallel world.
Immensely, thank you.
Cheers Gilles 🍻🍻
@@AndyAstbury No Audio in this video. All other videos are working fine besides this one.
For those who are super impatient, he basically says the x-rite is the best of all 3 units. Period. With hard facts.
Thanks
Thank you
yes but spyderx is as good as x-rite for monitors below at 1500eur and below.
Best video I have seen on the matter.
Cheers!
Sir this video is extremely helpful. Watching from the start till the end. A huge respect to you.
At first I want to get a SpyderX for $143 (great performance for the price). Since i1 Display Pro Plus cost $350 here (older i1 display pro is just $30 cheaper).
But after watching this I think 200 bucks will be justified in the long run. X-Rite seem to have a very long support for their products and the most important thing is its accuracy is still unmatched.
Thank you, I'm happy you found it helpful 🍻🍻
Maybe, but first you should double check that your screen is worth it. Many screens with Tn or no LUT are not well fit to be calibrated. That is where your money is well spent. BenQ Sw270 is a great start for under $600
@@philindeblanc Hello Phil, what about for a Dell U2715H? I am going crazy with this calibrators world.... Does the SpyderX will work fine for this monitor or better de Xrite?
Thank you for setting the score. You're not the only person that recommends it based on facts. I'm picking up the Xrite.
15:25 comes down to the actual conclusion
Thank you sir, this level playing field evaluation of those three devices was exactly what I was looking for and the X-Rite is the one I will go for.
Cheers Dave 👍👍
Came here for monitor calibration advice, found the headquarters of RUclips nerdom. I subscribed.
Amazing explanation on the subject, thank you!
I started researching about a used spyder 5 and ended up here at 4am even though my only camera is the one in my smartphone lol
😆😆Cheers Eduardo 🍻😆
Wow this review opens more doors than how many it closes to me, but thanks for the very precious explanation. You've just got a new follower.
Thank you Paolo 🍻👍
Hello Sir!
Thank you for your efforts in putting forth this quality information! I was very much confused between these colorimeters and was unable to make a solid decision. This comparison method is the best. I am now clear that X-Rite is the best one for my use. Thanks Again
Great content! I love that you cover important details that most tutorials just repeat the same old info. I’d love to see even more printing videos from you in detail with making fine art prints in mind.
Cheers Kyle 🍻 He-he, the last printing videos I did were not as well viewed as I'd imagine they would be when I made 'em! But nonetheless I've got a few more to do, and would detailed 10min individual paper reviews be of interest?
@@AndyAstbury Yes sir to paper reviews. I bought my first pro printer(Pixma Pro 100) this year and have become rather obsessed with fine art papers from Canson, Hahnemuhle and Moab. I've seen many of the product videos from those companies but often they're only a couple minutes each. I would definitely watch yours if you choose to make them. I'm still learning the printing craft and have come quite a ways, I still struggle with getting neutral black and white prints, but getting better. I'd also be interested in hearing your thoughts on paper varnishes, sprays, etc. I haven't tried any of them and not even sure I should. Great work, I'll be working my way through all your videos. Take care.
just started watching this vid. I am a Polish lad and i was looking for someone to share some opinion about this subject supported with experience not paid partnership like these fancy channels ...
Thank you SIR ! LOTS OF RESPECT !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Mega insightful Andy! I have been pushing forward getting myself a screen calibration tool, your very detailed and technical insight definitely has helped me to understand their nuances and exact working a lot better. Many thanks!
Glad to help👍
Thank you for this great video Mr. Andy. Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this beautiful review! Your "affiliate" is forgiven.
No worries!
Mr Andy, thank you for your work, it really makes quite easy to understand color calibration and the tools needed.
Your information is truly valuable and I find it surprising the amount of videos with inaccurate information with a much higher visit count.
Excuse my English, it's not my first language. Also I'm going to get ahead of myself here an give you a suggestion from my side and experience managing youtube channels on the 50k-100k range, which is that should optimize your video titles and video tags to make them compete and become easier to find users.
This process is quite simple... whenever we write an query on youtube search bar, the autocomplete shows us a list of suggested searched.
This suggestions are based on organic user inputs, so if I write down "color calibrate" youtube gives a list of suggestions which are basically a list of videos to be made, or possible titles that can help or fix another persons problem.
i.E. "how to calibrate a monitor" gives suggestions such us: "how to calibrate a monitor without a colorimeter", "how to calibrate a monitor for photo editing", "how to calibrate a monitor for gaming", "how to calibrate a monitor for video editing", "how to calibrate monitor for photography ".
This can be used as titles as well as video tags, which will help a great deal in making your valuable experience and information easier to find.
You can use this in different ways, from getting video ideas to optimizing previous content. Another example of how to take this would be doing "How to choose a monitor for" series with those suggestions, and naming a video playlist "how to choose a monitor" which would rank up on youtube organic search results. In the long run this will be like a "snowball" effect, getting more views to your videos. This is type of informative vids and tutorials are known as "evergreen content" which have a long time value and can consistantly make views in the long run.
Sorry for long explanation, but I do appreciate knowledge from professionals so all explained above was with good intented as you have helped me understand better color calibration!
On other side of things, the link provided takes me to the X-Rite i1Display Studio, I know it is a little more affordable than the Display Pro, would you recommend it? Or would you recommend buying a used one? I ask this since my country customs has a law that products over $200 must pay additional taxes and fees which takes the price of Display pro from $240 to $325, quite a jump here in Peru
Cheers!!
Hi Luca, thank you for your kind words and advice 🍻👍
If you print your images and want to make custom profiles the Studio would be the best buy - ruclips.net/video/U0erT7XNhhE/видео.html
But if all you want to do is calibrate your monitor then the Display Pro is my recommendation.
@@AndyAstbury Thanks a lot for your suggestion Andy! Know I know which is the way to go.
I'll watch the video, have a great day!
@@AndyAstbury Mr Andy, sorry I was refering between the i1Display Studio ($150 amazon) from your link: amzn.to/2Yq7bHN it is the display version, not the i1Studio ($450 amazon)
I'm on the budget so may I ask, is the i1Display Studio (amzn.to/2Yq7bHN) worth the while? Or Should I go straight to the i1Display pro?
Thanks again 👏
Hi Luca - the i1Display Pro amzn.to/3dYHMuv is the one to go for in my opinion
Hi Andy, thanks for clearing that out!
Have a great day! 👏
Great comparison. I have an old ColorMunki device still (one of the original ones from well over 10 years ago). The only problem is, it isn't directly supported by hardware calibration for some monitors that support hardware calibration.
Cheers Jason🍻🍻
Excellent video and information. I’m now going to go to the “interweb” to see if you’ve done a video on profiling the results of calibration - software used, etcetera. I would also like to see a comparison between the X-Rite i1 Display Pro (Plus) and the i1 Studio Spectrophotometer (updated colormunki) specifically for monitor calibration. I want the ability to profile my printer and paper, but I’m concerned about monitor calibration limitations of the i1 Studio.
Cheers David! Does this video I made ruclips.net/video/U0erT7XNhhE/видео.html answer your needs? It's a bit of a ramble, about black points etc but if you stick with it to the end I think you might find it interesting.
@@AndyAstbury thanks very much for the video. Normally, I don’t like rambling, but yours is very entertaining and informative. Excellent video. I am currently deciding on a colorimeter, monitor, and possibly a spectrophotometer. I will be doing some printing at home up to A3 size. I’ve narrowed it to an X-Rite solution, but It turns out that X-Rite is making the decision difficult by crippling the calibration functionality of the i1 Studio (using the same software as the discontinued i1 Display Studio), and using completely different, (presumably more robust), software for the x1 Display Pro. Not a huge concern with a hardware monitor where I will use the manufacturer’s software, but I will be using a second monitor and laptop, so not all the displays will have hardware LUTs. I’ve watched your i1 Studio video also, which doesn’t really address this concern. Would be great of X-Rite had a thorough functionality checklist on their web site, so I could understand the trade-offs better. Off-the-subject, I’ve narrowed the monitors to the similarly priced (in the US) 32” BenQ SW321c, and the Eizo CS2740. I like the 32”, but I’m guessing the 10 bit Eizo might be ever so slightly more accurate than the 8bit + FRC BenQ. Both have 16 bit LUTs?
Either the BenQ or Eizo require hardware calibration - PaletteMaster for the former, ColorNavigator (like mine in the video) for Eizo - so XRite software is irrelevant as it will not support hardware calibration. Forget about XRite software and software calibration in general - it's nothing but a pain in the arse.
Hi, Andy. First time caller. Hope this covid saga is keeping you well. A brillaint and thorough review, first I've ever seen with a real technical and evaluative comparison of popular calibrators. I've got the spyder5 due to budget constraints, plus my work is not on a commercial level per se, so I think for me the spyder5 suffices. Though I remember when I purchased mine, Datacolor then released the Spyder5 X shortly after, and I was somewhat miffed. Oh well.
I kind of knew the limilations of the spyder5 from the outset and one thing I did do was, NOT to use the datacolor software, Instead I use Displaycal which you probably know of.
From what I read, It does a much better job at calibrating, though a longer time run time, but the results should be better (I assume), though I cannot truly compare to other tools. I thought it was the best approach I could take to get maximum accuracy for the Spyder5.
I'd be very curious to find out how accurate or different Displaycal would treat the same three calibrators, in comparison to your Eizo monitor system. I'm not asking for you to do a video, just pondering.
Incidentally, I recenlty tried to get my head around in calibratting my TV using a program called HCFR, which uses the same data libraries as displaycal; ArgyllCMS. To me the results look better, but also I also question myself. Is this correct? ha.
Anyway thats all.
Cheers - covid is keeping away from this house so far, I'm just hoping it doesn't delay the wifes much needed cancer surgery.
When you run a hardware calibrated system like I do it's not a good idea to put software calibration on it, because one works on the monitor, the other on the GPU - so there is no chance I can do a video on it!
But I know someone who uses DisplayCal, and we tested all 3 devices on his machine and got the same results - just another version of the level playing field test.
If I was using a software calibrated system and Datacolor hardware I would I think use DisplayCal, but if I was using XRite hardware then I think I'd be using XRite i1 software.
As for TV calibration I would have thought Rec709 or Rec2020 would be standard?
@@AndyAstbury Oh dear, this covid crisis truly has created vortex of chaos. My nan is also awaiting surgery, but not a s crucial as cancer surgery. I truly hope she gets it soon, and gets to good health asap. I would suggest turmeric, a powerful anti inflammatory and more, as a general preventative. Not a miracle spice, but also is a miracle spice, akin to taking vitamin C.
Anyway, thanks for the reply. I see what you mean, your monitor being a hardware device.
My thinking was just of curiosity of said tools, though perhaps not using the Eizo as the testing ground. Though, as you said, someone has tested my curiosity and the results were similar, fair enough. I've only got a Dell U2417H, which is a 6bit +FRC type and not true 8bit, however that works, although it does cover 99% sRGB, cant recall Adobe RGB.
I do agree, If I had the Xrite or colormunki type hardware I would definately use their software, though knowing me I'd still test them with DisplayCal ha. I would probably use DisplayCal with SpyderX too. I once had a Pantone Huey, now that was atrocious.
Correct, for my 1080p TV, I've calibated to Rec709. I think Rec2020 is for 4K?
The results look very different to the built in Pro cinema mode, especially the greyscale and black levels, not that I can be assured the Spyder5 is calibrating correctly, also the HCFR program is mind boggling to use. I've left the colour calibration alone for now.
Still, an intersting experiment.
Very informative, thank you.
Thank you Stuart 👍
thank you a thousand! you're so real!
Happy to help!
Great comparison..Wish you had the old Spyder Print Pro to compare with the i1PhotoPro or Pro2 or3, or others that scan patches.
Cheers 🍻 I've never managed to get a straight answer from Datacolor as to what the Spyder Print is - colorimeter or spectrophotometer. They use the term spectrocolorimeter, which is somewhat meaningless - it's either one or the other!
I would never use a colorimeter to profile a printer.
But if Datacolor want to send me a Spyder Print then I would do a fair test of it for sure.
thanks Andy, very good video full of valuable information. I'm just b amateur photographer but I keep my work flow color managed. I have both i1 display pro as well as spyder5 colorimeter. I have 3 questions after watching your video. Q1: you recommended i1 because the delta E resulted is smaller, I always think delta E is a attribute of the monitor, colorimeter is the instrument to measure it, from the 3 sets should the results be interpreted as spyder able to pick up the difference? or your tablet is from validation step so delta e is already taking into account the quality of profile? Q2: in the process of monitor calibration, I only rely on the size of gamut to compare the quality of colorimeter, I simply take larger the better. But the accuracy on luminance and white point, how can we end user judge or all we can do is relying on the colorimeter？Q3: If i use both i1 and spyder and find the gamut of a display much smaller than it should be , says P3 vs Srgb, can I conclude it is monitor hardware problem or any possibility it just ptoblem of wrong display setting, or wrong calibration software setting?
Firstly, you don't say if you are on a hardware or software calibrated system, but here goes...
DeltaE 2000 variation is the difference between the created profile and the standard ISO12646 test values, so it's an 'attribute' of the profile's accuracy and not the monitor per se. That being the case, the device which produces a profile with the lowest deltaE variation against the ISO12646 standard is the most accurate.
With monitors, for me personally, colour accuracy is down to 'neutrality' of grey scale balance - this is more important than gamut volume; though a neutral grey balance usually results in the biggest volume.
P3 - you mean Display P3? That's the factory default for Mac laptops if I'm not mistaken. I don't carry out colour-critical work on such a screen. But I do calibrate the screen all the same, again to a neutral grey balance and correct 110/120 cdm2.
But the process of calibration of these types of screen usually results in a slightly smaller gamut volume because you are calibrating the on-chip GPU, which in a lot of cases is barely 8bit before you start calibration - it's software calibration as opposed to hardware calibration.
If you are not using a monitor that supports hardware calibration, you need to be careful of 'double profiling' when testing different calibrator devices. In such a system, the application of a monitor profile 'warps' the GPU output, so you need to 'unwarp' said GPU output before you recalibrate with a second device. If you don't do that, by removing the first profile, then you end up 'double profiling', which will always result in a smaller gamut volume, and the more you do it the smaller it'll get.
This was a real tour de force tutorial
Cheers 🍻🍻
Excellent video! Thank you for all the information and explanations
Cheers Isaiah 🍻👍
Great video! I was totally sold on the X-write so bought the Pro version for my fairly new Windows PC. The software crashed on 2 attempts to load, and on the third try wiped out my Windows instance. So although I was really impressed with your video, not so with XWrite. Returned it and will try SpyderX.
Thank you for this in-depth video! Fascinating. I'm a graphic designer, not a photographer, and I'm not currently printing any photography. I'm wondering then if my contrast ratio actually should be greater than 400:1 to account for how images are experienced on digital screens... Is this the case, or would it still be best to get the target contrast ratio between 300:1 and 400:1? I believe you also mentioned that you went with the default settings for contrast for these colorimeters. Do you actually have the ability to set a target contrast ratio ?
Hi Andy. I am happy to see your this objective video. I want to buy a monitor calibrator and i want to use it on new monitors in the future. What do you think about calibrite display plus hl? Many people say Display Plus HL is less sensitive to measuring grays and blacks than the regular Calibrite Display Plus. I have Asus Proart PA329CV monitor. I'm realy confused. Which one do you think makes more sense?
Good question! I can't attest to any Calibrite devices because they don't deem me important enough to send me one for review! But for anything related to colour calibration that I've not covered, here's the one place I WOULD go to......... Keith Cooper, Northlight Images....... I know he has reviewed at least one Calibrite device. And Calibrite is really Xrite anyway, so I reckon they're a safe bet. But do check out Keith's channel - no nonesense or bullshit, and been in the game as long as me. PLUS, he's a much nicer chap than me!!!
@@AndyAstbury Thank you so much for answering. Unfortunately brands are not brave enough to send products to objective content creators. I'm in the same situation. Your detailed explanation of the differences is very clear for us. You should keep going. I'm gonna go ask Keith Cooper now. Take care yorself. Keep going Andy. Love from Turkey ✌
Cheers! Tell Keith I sent you.
Super helpful video, thank you!
Cheers 🍻
Thank god
Just what I was looking for! Thanks for a data-driven comparison between the devices! I hope you see this comment, but should I use the X1’s native software or ColorNavigator?
Great video thanks! :D
Glad you liked it!
I'll be getting the i1studio since its more budget-friendly - I have a 31.5" UHD 4K monitor from LG running on an old MacBook pro-2012 for graphic design and slight video editing. This is my first monitor, and I'm new to the tech world, so I'd appreciate it if you could steer me in the right direction of what calibration software to use and \/or settings. Thanks a ton for your wisdom!
I can recommend the i1Studio - I use one myself. You COULD buy one via this page bit.ly/3bLmdfP - that would help the channel a lot!
Personally I'd go with a 2.5K instead of 4K, but it depends if you are doing photo (2.3/2.5K) or graphics/video (4k).
Either way, if you get an i1Studio you will get the i1 software - use that, it'll sort things out for you very easily.
If you set your target for D65 white point, 100/120 candelas per square meter and a gamma of 2.2 you will be working at industry standard specs.
Hi Andy thanks for posting this very useful info. I have a JVC NX7 projector and have calibrated it using my Spyder X with JVC's Auto Cal software and have good results. Well they seem good to my eye. Due to your comparison in this video, how much better would the Xrite i1pro2 be in getting a result with the JVC Auto Cal software. I use the JVC software as it is better than the Spyders and a lot of people in the Home Theatre game are also using it with the JVC projectors.
Here where I live the x-Rite was being sold at 210 €, while the SpyderX was on discount at 99€... I mean, I kind of need a decent calibrator since I'm an architect, but the price difference on the SpyderX was a no brainer for me even if the quality is lower.
Any calibration is better than none at all 👍
Hey Andy! First and foremost I would like to say thank you for being such a valuable resource! It’s hard to find people that you can really trust on the Internet, and you seem to be one of the few that I really do.
I do have a question... I work in video, and I’m faced with the following:
- Calibrate my display only, and maintain 4K
Or
- Run through a DeckLink (Essentially removes the GPUs adjustments out of the picture), calibrate from there, but only get 1080p
Obviously, the latter will deliver the best results, but what degree of differences are we talking here? Enough for a prosumer to worry about, or would you say I’m good with just calibrating the monitor?
Thanks for that NEB 🍻🍻
From the outset let me say I know less than nothing about video - I have a hard enough time with desktop recordings and my Osmo Pocket in Camtasia!
But, I would have to say that my advice would be to calibrate the display and maintain your 4K.
Like with stills your monitor is the window on to your video - if you know it's correctly calibrated and your video looks "off" then you can accurately correct it in the edit.
If you use a 'hardware calibrated monitor' (Eizo,NEC,BenQ) then there are no GPU adjustments to get rid of.
Hope this helps
Hi sir, I really could not understand the final conclusion and I hope you'll help me to get the best answer, I am a photographer and all of my works are shared as a hobby via the social media like instagram \ facebook etc... And I want to know if color calibrator tool is something I need I am using the Dell U2720Q display which is great.
and if I'll need a color calibrator with which one should I start?
the SpyderX Pro?
the X-Rite i1Display Studio?
or should I put an extra money for the X-Rite i1Display Pro?
thanks for any answer you can give! I put my sub on your channel :]
Hi Shalev - the XRite was best in this head to head test.
Every monitor NEEDS calibrating.
All three calibrators in this test will make your monitor better for photography purposes, so buy which ever fits your budget - the XRite just has the edge for colour neutrality.
I can't comment on the i1Display Studio as I haven't had one to test.
@@AndyAstbury Thanks sir,
I would pick the X-RITE PRO ver, would you recommend to use the stock software?
Your monitor does NOT support hardware calibration, so use the XRite i1 Profiler software.
new subscriber here! Thank you for sharing your insights, very much helpful indeed!
Thanks for the sub Jerome, glad the video was helpful 👍
Hello.... soomuch info on this vdeo :)
..I have a benq2420PT and a huion camvas13 tablet hooked on to a laptop ..i am trying to match the tablet(120% srgb) and the external screen(100% srgb and around 90+argb) but i am unable to create proiles which can bring it close(like even bringin down the more capable monitor)..
i had a spider elite but it creates just one icc profile.. (tiossed it)
what do you suggest that can create something for this pair and scan prints as well.... i'm unsure between which spyder or xrite will be successful
Have you ever used DisplayCal? I use the i1 Dispaly Pro and get much better results using DisplayCal. I say buy the cheaper Colour Monki (same hardware as the i1 DP) and use DisplayCal to calibrate your screen.
I did try DisplayCal Jose but I couldn't get quite as consistent a grey balance as I get using Eizo ColorNavigator.
Do you think worth it buy a spyder 5 pro? Just for casual uses
It's okay for me, because manufacturers send this stuff to me for free! Out of preference, I would stay away from DataColor and choose XRite, but the differences are negligible and a Spyder 5 will be better than not calibrating at all.
Hello,
help make the right choice.
I need a calibrator for the main monitor is BenQ SW271
I use the monitor to work with photos, graphics, video, and pre-print preparation.
Looked at the "ColorMunki Display or i1Display Pro?"
I saw that the ColorMunki Display started working with i1Studio software. Will it give me the opportunity to receive a calibration report with ColorMunki Display as you have?
I need to understand what happened before the calibration and what happened after calibration in the details and numbers like yours.
I use Windows 10 machine!
If I work in Adobe RGB and sRGB do I need to calibrate each color space or only one?
What should be the parameters of the monitor before calibration, (color space, brightness, etc.)
Will I have compatibility issues with ColorMunki Display and BenQ SW271?
Not using BenQ I cannot say 100% certainly, but I don't see why you would have a problem. The CM Display is NOT the same device as the i1 and the i1 is the more accurate device as I understand.
Colour management is really simple - it's the screen you are calibrating so once this is done properly you can use any colour space in Photoshop you wish.
Something is wrong here, because that monitor doesn’t display that much gamut compared to adobeRGB, like you’re showing at the end. Is the CLUT remapping that gamut down into the smaller native space or something?
I bought the Spyder 5 elite and hate that there's a key to use it. Should have been baked into the device itself. I don't have ANY clue where the key is in my house. SO, that's neat.
Hi, thanks for your explanation, I have an IMac and an Eizo cs240 connected, Do you think is correct to use on the IMac the same profile that I have from the calibration of the Eizo monitor, or I need to calibrate separatly the IMac and if so, I need to use colornavigator for the IMac or I can only use the spider software? Thanks for your help.
Hi Luigi - does your iMac have an HDMI out? If so then get an HDMI to DVI cable and drive the Eizo that way. But which ever way you have the Eizo connected you need to use ColorNavigator and plug your calibrator into the Eizo NOT the iMac. Do not use the Eizo profile for the iMac screen, the Eizo is capable of displaying MANY more colours - pretty much AdobeRGB - but your iMac screen is more like sRGB - its display color space is very much smaller. Your setup can be very good - I used the same setup when I used to do print workshops for a big retailer here in the UK - works like a dream.
Andy I’m about to upgrade my system. Probably iMac. Do these monitors need calibrating? And will Colour Monki or equivalent do the job. Thanks for your videos. I’m Lightroom 6 and Elements but trying to learn Affinity. Thanks
All monitors need calibrating, even those on iMac. There is not a single screen on the planet that doesn't need calibration for colour critical work to ICC standard. Any calibration device is better than no calibration!
If you only need your screen calibrated and you have no need for add-ons like spot colour measurement etc then stick with a colorimeter.
My recommendation would be the i1 Display Pro. The Spyder X looks pretty good in the test and is a bit cheaper, then there is the ColorMunki Display which folk say is good but I have no experience of to be honest.
Hope this helps.
Andy Astbury Many thanks Andy.
You're most welcome 👍
Am I the only that takes different profiles with spyder x elite every time I calibrate . They are totally different and wrong . Think of buying Xrite
is the SPYDER 3 PRO a good option nowadays?
No, not really!
do you know how the spyder x compare to the x-rite studio, not the pro version? is it still better then the spyder x ?
SpyderX is as good as x-rite for all monitors at 1500eur and below. Did some testing and haven't found any significant superriority of x-rite in this class of monitors. X-rite is only better with proffesional moniyors that has all the bells and whistles.
Well, how remiss of me to use a professional grade monitor - damn, I must try harder next time.
Thank you for this video. But I have one minor thought:
If I’m not mistaken, but simply by comparing the color spaces between the Spyder X and the i1 Display Pro in your video, I wouldn’t state that the i1 Display Pro is „more accurate“ then the Spyder X. The Spyder X, in your measurements, is representing a slightly bigger colorspace, except for the „reddish“ or „dark orange“.
I never tested 'colour space'.....same test target for all 3 devices and the best one is the one that gives the lowest DeltaE2000 variations - simple.
@@AndyAstbury Got it. Thanks.
Hello, you seem like you know a lot about this stuff, i would like to buy a colorimeter for my monitor preferably under 200€ as i'm not a content creator and i think it will do the job fine, i found X-Rite i1 display studio for 160€ or Datacolor SpiderX Pro for 200€, is the SpiderX worth the extra 40€? The X-Rite i1 Pro is 250€ not sure what are the diffrences between Pro and Studio version. Thanks.
ARTisRight has the best explanation of the differences between the XRite models ruclips.net/video/Z0ul9SsilY8/видео.html
@@AndyAstbury Thank you, very good video, the studio version looks exactly like something i want, affordable, easy to use, but i really miss that option to verify the icc profile, how do i know if it's calibrated right? Is there any other program that can measure all the values let's say before and after calibration?
Bro, what meter should I get in 2021? I want a good calibration and I don't want to shell out my entire account to get it.
Same one.
100 nits? Damn. Am I the only one who likes a bright display? ::shrug::
That’s the problem with calibrating for print vs calibrating for a bright vivid display.
There are some issue problem with my i1 Display Pro that is old model now. It calibrated to quite too warm cast on white balance. That's something need to be fixed but I am pretty sure the device I bought from may not have been properly tested in factory before shipping to all shops. If it has not been calibrated to meet the calibration certification for the accuracy then this is not an accurate device at all.
Well if that's really the case it's the first time I've ever heard of it happening. Have you tried contacting them? If you software calibrate then it could also be the monitor or the GPU - hence I hardware calibrate as this removes the GPU and operating system/driver from the equation. Also, if you have let the calibration tile get dirty or discolored then that will throw an error too.
@@AndyAstbury I’ll investigate further to see what went wrong.
@@AndyAstbury Yes on Windows software most of time when using calibration it end up into GPU. My monitor does not have built in hardware calibration (DDC) unfortunately. So I end up manual entering white balance and brightness before commencing it with Dispcal and it save into GPU and the ICC/ICM file. I don't buy expensive fancy monitor for photos editing. LG monitor does not do very good job with factory default white balance same goes with LG TV, most are looking cold (blue) to me. Imo manual entering white balance before starting calibration do not end up as accurate as very expensive monitor with built in hardware calibration with DDC. So it may tend to look a bit off to me. The device I bought was from retail store so each unit will be vary. I cannot guarantee this unit I bought is accurate due to without NIST calibration certification. The only one I see is accurate like Portrait Displays C6 HDR2000 due to comes with NIST certification. It would have been nice if X-Rite does offer NIST certification. Imo the accuracy from i1 display pro is okay enough to me, not perfect with my visual from what I see.
Okay I may have done it wrong in dispcal possibly. This time I leave it as default like auto things. And I did only adjustment like manual white balance and brightness before calibration goes ahead. And then I did verification and it was better than last time with lower error number. I think the main problem with most of LG monitor has too strong blue led edge or full array back light making calibration more difficult as some calibrator are trying to over correct the white balance so sometimes it may look too warm, it might need further adjustment or try again to get it right. This time it came out better and I am happy with that this time. Sony TV I bought beats LG as it has almost the most accurate ever. I don't know how Sony do it. I have Sony X900H here in Australia. The monitor I use is LG gaming gear 32GK650F. Old LG TV I use to have was terrible with so blue cast and not bright enough and I got rid of it gave it to dad, it was 55UJ65T. I know Sony TV do not have as good refresh rate/input lag rate as LG is although I prefer accurate colours over it anyway. Only tiny bit of problem from Sony TV is red colour is not perfect as it sometime causes magenta cast. Wish Sony should make monitor, would be nice to have.
I appreciate your work, but your method is flawed.
All colorimeters are flawed. They have a *- deviation within each unit of each model, and they have an overall accuracy, hence why some models are way more expensive, than others.
When you're doing the validation, you should use a colorimeter that is much more expensive, than the tested models.
Now, I'm in no doubt the X-rite i1display Pro is the better choice anyway. Calibration software for TVs that cost thousands of dollars, like Calman 5 software, only supports the I1display Pro for the same reason, when we're talking about "cheap" colorimeters. Hence why I own the X-rite.
Unfortunately the software that comes with the I1display Pro sucks. It's not very accurate, hence why I use DisplayCAL for calibrating my monitors.
The problem with the original software to the i1Display Pro, is that you can calibrate two very different monitors, and they don't look alike, after calibration. They do, using DisplayCAL. And that software is 100% free!
As I have said in many videos, colourimeters are not as good as spectros, but the rest of your comment is bloody pointless. This test uses THE SAME target settings, on THE SAME monitor, using three different devices, THEREFORE, it is a level playing field test - and the software used to do the test is irrelevant.