@ProvoBeastAudio, how do I know if I have a Sony factory system? I have an XLT Premium with the 8" and 7 speaker system but the bass in it is pathetic, especially on low volume. I don't want earth-shattering, stomach-punching bass but definitely more than what it has now without changing out the factory stereo or cutting/modifying a bunch of stuff.
Is the b&o system the same for everything he did even though his is a Sony? Thank you in advance getting ready to start this on my 2019 f250 with the b&o
So I’m estimating the ampacity for the door speakers. I ordered the listed 20’ 18awg/9 conductor. Am I going to experience noticeable sound throttling? I ordered some 12awg to run from the amps up to the headset since I don’t have the B&O or Sony system. You have all the experience so what do you suggest. I’m considering just running the 18awg & if I notice throttling stepping up to the larger wire gauge.
Nice work! I installed exact same unit in my 2016 F-150. The problem I’m having is the bass fades in and out for about the first ten minutes of driving then it works fine. As long as I’m parked it doesn’t happen. Any suggestions?
i did this 2yrs ago with cross overs same wire adapters and when all done i only has front signal like all ford factory setups so had to runrca Ys i was only using 4ch amp form all door speakers crossovers for smaller ones and factory amp on factory sub box just swapped sub, but couldnt get left right for front and back, maybe i overlooked something but when rears didnt work it pissed me off so i just did what i said so sound came out. b ut IDC Ill run wire to each one if needed
How do you like the SKAR products in comparison to alpine. I’m running alpine component 6.1/2” fronts and alpine 6.1/2” coaxial rears. Already blown front tweeters and rear coaxial blown. Not too impressed with durability.
I have a 2019 f350 lariat with the b&o. Is there a way to bypass how the higher i turn up the radio the less the sub thumps? I have my rca converter tapped into my whatever that silver box is behind the seat that the door speakers hook up to.
Thats called bass rolloff, and is done to protect the factory sub at higher volumes. You can get a line out converter that corrects bass rolloff, and commonly one used is the AudioControl LC2i: amzn.to/3vbq7fP
Can we use this just for a subwoofer upgrade if we are not planning on changing the front and rear door speakers? is it a different wiring harness that is needed. i own a 2017 f350 with the sony system and i want more bass in the back end.
@@nicoortega36 if were just adding a sub do we still need the harnesses that plug into the factory amp or no. I would think just the Pac apsub-fd21 would be the only thing you need since your not changing the front and rears..
Well from a conductivity standpoint, actually aluminum is significantly more conductive than steel. There are plenty of arguments whether to ground to the steel frame or run a dedicated ground to the battery, others go right to the body. The ground we used worked fantastic without issue.
@@ProvoBeastAudio good to hear, I’m doing my install this weekend and everyone on forums said to use a pain bolt to get to behind the rear seat latch. But your option is way easier
Sure, you can do a 4 gauge or 1/0 distribution and connect amps there too. Some ways easier doing that, other ways can be a bit more expensive. Just depends on your install.
Parts used linked in the description of the video!
@ProvoBeastAudio, how do I know if I have a Sony factory system? I have an XLT Premium with the 8" and 7 speaker system but the bass in it is pathetic, especially on low volume. I don't want earth-shattering, stomach-punching bass but definitely more than what it has now without changing out the factory stereo or cutting/modifying a bunch of stuff.
What if it’s a 2019 Ford F-250 with the B&O system , still the FD31 kit or is it something else?
You guys should sell a kit with the amps and crossovers already mounted and wired. I’d buy one.
Thank you for listing everything in your description. Your attention to detail has allowed me to move forward with my project! (2022 f250 B&O)
Is the b&o system the same for everything he did even though his is a Sony? Thank you in advance getting ready to start this on my 2019 f250 with the b&o
Thanks for a very detailed installation. 👍
The 5amp fused to tap into is #18
Excellent video thank you!
So I’m estimating the ampacity for the door speakers. I ordered the listed 20’ 18awg/9 conductor. Am I going to experience noticeable sound throttling? I ordered some 12awg to run from the amps up to the headset since I don’t have the B&O or Sony system. You have all the experience so what do you suggest. I’m considering just running the 18awg & if I notice throttling stepping up to the larger wire gauge.
My 2020 f250 isn’t fitting any wire down the door jam, let alone zero gauge
Clean install!
Nice work! I installed exact same unit in my 2016 F-150. The problem I’m having is the bass fades in and out for about the first ten minutes of driving then it works fine. As long as I’m parked it doesn’t happen. Any suggestions?
If you're just adding subs can I still use all the harness/products you used or do I need to do something different?
Can I just pay you to install for me? This is CLEAN.
So I am wanting to just add a subwoofer would I still need the second amp for the speakers and tweeters?
i did this 2yrs ago with cross overs same wire adapters and when all done i only has front signal like all ford factory setups so had to runrca Ys i was only using 4ch amp form all door speakers crossovers for smaller ones and factory amp on factory sub box just swapped sub, but couldnt get left right for front and back, maybe i overlooked something but when rears didnt work it pissed me off so i just did what i said so sound came out. b ut IDC Ill run wire to each one if needed
I have a 2019 f250 with a B&O sound system your links have nothing for me, would it be the same as the Sony links?
I’m wondering the same thing
Need this info 😅
Or need to use the ap4 -fd31
Can i ask how much was the labor on that whole install?
So, for my 17 F series with sony. Do I need both PAC adapters to add the amp at the back and replace the sub? Do I need the ampro part too?
Did you have to raise the back seat for that box??
What if i want to use the bass control that came with the amp, will it plug into the PAC module?
What cross over did you use 2017 Sony system
I'd love to see an example of doing this on the same truck, but a model that didn't come with a factory amp.
Where did you get those grills for the subs ?
How do you like the SKAR products in comparison to alpine. I’m running alpine component 6.1/2” fronts and alpine 6.1/2” coaxial rears. Already blown front tweeters and rear coaxial blown. Not too impressed with durability.
I’ll take alpine over Skar any day. If you see blowing speakers, there is an issue with the install.
do those equipment pieces work for the Bang and Olufsen systems aka the other "premium audio system" which are also in superdutys
I’m still wondering the same thing
Did you had to cut off a any load resistor? Where did you connect the center speaker too? The gray connector ? 5:12
Did you figure this out
I have a 2019 f350 lariat with the b&o. Is there a way to bypass how the higher i turn up the radio the less the sub thumps? I have my rca converter tapped into my whatever that silver box is behind the seat that the door speakers hook up to.
Thats called bass rolloff, and is done to protect the factory sub at higher volumes. You can get a line out converter that corrects bass rolloff, and commonly one used is the AudioControl LC2i: amzn.to/3vbq7fP
@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks boss, ill giver a run.
How much would something like this cost for my 2019 f250
700-900 with subs and everything idk how much the box is tho
Will this work on. 2020 f250 with the B&O system. I’m seeing a lot of conflicting info
Yes it will! I just need to add those parts, let me add them now to the description!
Okay, that info is added, the Pac harness differs a bit so check it out. Same process, just slightly different parts.
Can we use this just for a subwoofer upgrade if we are not planning on changing the front and rear door speakers? is it a different wiring harness that is needed. i own a 2017 f350 with the sony system and i want more bass in the back end.
what did you end up doing for the sony?
I’m also curious. Don’t wanna mess with the speakers. Just want a sub
You can do the same process but use the PAC APSUB-FD21 which instead of the one shown in the video for sub only. Hope this helps out 😊
@@nicoortega36 if were just adding a sub do we still need the harnesses that plug into the factory amp or no. I would think just the Pac apsub-fd21 would be the only thing you need since your not changing the front and rears..
@@adamtratar82 correct no need for the harness that plugs in, just need the pac to connect the sub
How is that ground working, isn't Ford aluminum cab?>
Well from a conductivity standpoint, actually aluminum is significantly more conductive than steel. There are plenty of arguments whether to ground to the steel frame or run a dedicated ground to the battery, others go right to the body. The ground we used worked fantastic without issue.
@@ProvoBeastAudio good to hear, I’m doing my install this weekend and everyone on forums said to use a pain bolt to get to behind the rear seat latch. But your option is way easier
Did you change speakers?
Yes, those videos linked in the description.
Where are you guys located?
Couldn’t you just run one power wire to a block on the amp rack
Sure, you can do a 4 gauge or 1/0 distribution and connect amps there too. Some ways easier doing that, other ways can be a bit more expensive. Just depends on your install.
So I am wanting to just add a subwoofer would I still need the second amp for the speakers and tweeters?
I am just doing subs. which wiring harness do i need?
Depends on the trim of your truck, the amp your installing, etc. Send me a message on facebook / instagram and we can help you with your build.