Glad I found this. Have a project with veneer given to me and had not a clue on how veneer is done. Thanks. This was great/perfect. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you for posting. I never do any veneer before. I have a old 1930s radio to restore. The veneer is coming off in big bits. Will be playing around fist to get fermiluler with thisAll the best Richard
Thanks very much. I have a challenging project, the restoration of a model airplane, (large, 2m wingspan). It has a very nice wood veneer fuselage but it is showing it age. I want to cover with a new layer of veneer. Since the bottom of the fuselage is curved, it is difficult to clamp. Your instructions for the impact cement was very helpful. I am anxious to try it.
There's another useful method I employ for my loudspeaker business. I use quality pva glues and apply to the substrate using a small roller then apply the veneer and then rub from the centre out using a burnished, perfectly smooth block of oak as a veneer hammer just to get the glue to start grabbing a little. I then use a non steam iron set to medium and working a small area at a time starting at one end, push the iron firmly over the area without holding for too long so the glue doesn't get too hot. The idea is to get the iron to press the veneer locally then use smooth wooden blocks to go over the area ironed to take the heat out quickly. The heat is transferred to the blocks. This causes the glue to grab and starts the setting process but leaves enough time to go over the entire piece and re iron and smooth as needed ensuring all air pockets are removed and all edges bonded. The piece is then turned over and I use a sharp knife to trim the excess ensuring the blade runs along the length to be trimmed where the grain flows up and away with the direction of the cut. A final edge trim is done after 20 minutes when the bond strength permits usig a small inexpensive hand plane then 240 grit finishing paper to smooth if needed. The inside face is done with balancing veneers for any panel a4 sized or above which is unbraced. I have had good success with this method but it does require a degree of skill which only comes with practice and patience.
Great introduction and well presented!, does anyone know of a good supplier for thicker workable Vaneer that can be sanded and finished to high gloss finish? im currently using Vaneer that's 0.6mm thick and its not very workable, i would love to use Walnut blur to resurface the top of a pool table but it might be something a bit more advanced for a beginner....
Excellent demo. Question. Why not use epoxy for the glueing process and vacuum bag? I'm currently dreaming up a compass rose marquetry for a boat but it has to handle extremely humid environment. Also what are your thoughts on paper backed veneers for simplicity. Cheers
WOW! thanks so much for getting back about that question its been helpful. Staining from the epoxy huh? You've brought something up I've not thought about. I've never worked with veneers/exotic woods for boat projects so forgive me on my ignorance but on teak holly floors we use polyurathane for durability would you seal it with that then as a taped project thats been sealed with the poly ututhane epoxy it to the backing (sealed marine plywood), vacuum bag, then I was going to apply a UV non yelling self leveling epoxy? I was going use a 2ply zebrawood, Koa and Walnut to make the compass rose but you're saying to seal the marquetry 1st. Do you think I'm on the right track? Cheers thanks for the response.
Not sure I would use a roller to make sure the veneer is well pushed down. Make up a traditional veneer hammer substituting a piece of hard hardwood for the iron we were always told was used. Iron can react badly with the tannin in some veneers such as Oak. Reason for the hammer over the roller is the contact area of a roller means you need super-human strength to achieve the same pressure on the veneer as with a hammer.
I've been hammer veneering for 60 years and always made my 'Hammer' using a 1/8" by 1"x 4" strip of brass insert as this does not react with the tanning, particularly in Oak
Thanks for the video, really great! I've recently been trying out veneering, but using PVA/wood glue and clamps approach, one thing I found was that some of the (walnut) burr veneer I had had some very small holes in it that allowed the glue to seep through and glue to the clamping boards. The veneer then got wrecked when I unclamped it all. I solved this by putting cling film between the veneer and clamping board - probably not a traditional approach! Quick question, when using the impact/contact glue, what's the reason for putting 2 coats of the glue on each side?
I'm sure it's because some of the first coat is absorbed into the pores of the wood. So the first coat essentially seals the wood, then the second coat is used for the gluing
Do not use evo stik on larger projects,especially if you using burr walnut which has a lot of movement over time.the joint will eventually creep ie meaning move apart.
@@mitsuracer87 SSD Seagate çok istiyorum inşallah canım hayırlısıyla nasip olur siddika çok daha çok girer ve iki daire basi çok iyi geceler canım benim çok istiyorum yaaa taş gibi mi var mi bura çok iyi geceler mesajları arattır ne zaman müsaitseniz haber ajansı sana ne oluyor kız öğrenci pansiyonu çok iyi gözünüz aydın olsun diye biz çıktık ve iki daire ve iki kat fazla borcu bitirip İstanbul'da çok iyi geceler canım bu ay içinde uygunsa bende bu ne böyle bı de muayene istasyonu açık hava tiyatrosu tarafından sahnelenen tiyatro festivali bu ay 🌙🌙🌙🌙🌙 da bir başka güzel rabbim bol müşteri hizmetleri çağrı ve asansor da bir on yıl sonra yeniden bir buçuk gibi mi var ya o da benim içime kurt 🐺🐺🐺 da ne bileyim hani herşeyi görsün da ne bileyim ben
Erik cramer : Ah well. The rude language emerges. Iron and the tannin in oak will create, not a surface discolouration, but a stain that can’t be removed. The roller against a veneer hammer is simply physics. If it sucks for you then I am delighted. I offered a couple of pieces of advice based on my many years of experience. Good bye. Shan’t bother to contribute anymore.
fiona aquilina . Hi there. For the doors it is fine. For the work tops it is best to steer clear of laminated on chipboard ones. There are some great materials out there: Dekton, Corian Silstone etc. if you have gone to the expense of Walnut veneers and the time and trouble to produce a bespoke product then go for a really good top.
Best tutorial on veneering. No nonsense, straight to the point using simple tools and materials.
Glad I found this. Have a project with veneer given to me and had not a clue on how veneer is done. Thanks. This was great/perfect. Thanks for posting this.
Absolutely excellent. Thank you, appreciated!
I know this is five years old, but I'm glad you explained how veneer isn't always a cheap shortcut. I admit, I assumed that it was.
-4Carl, Nice presentation, covered all the important basics.
Thank you for posting. I never do any veneer before. I have a old 1930s radio to restore. The veneer is coming off in big bits. Will be playing around fist to get fermiluler with thisAll the best Richard
Great job. Enjoyed the video a lot.
Excellent lecture/demo.Thanks for sharing!
Great help - Thanks!
Very informative! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks very much. I have a challenging project, the restoration of a model airplane, (large, 2m wingspan). It has a very nice wood veneer fuselage but it is showing it age. I want to cover with a new layer of veneer. Since the bottom of the fuselage is curved, it is difficult to clamp. Your instructions for the impact cement was very helpful. I am anxious to try it.
i was very interested in this but last time i checked veneer prices ade it very expensive to play with!
good video
Excellent info. Thank you very much
thank you for the thorough video. I learned a lot and am anxious to start an art project using veneer.
Thank You!
There's another useful method I employ for my loudspeaker business. I use quality pva glues and apply to the substrate using a small roller then apply the veneer and then rub from the centre out using a burnished, perfectly smooth block of oak as a veneer hammer just to get the glue to start grabbing a little. I then use a non steam iron set to medium and working a small area at a time starting at one end, push the iron firmly over the area without holding for too long so the glue doesn't get too hot. The idea is to get the iron to press the veneer locally then use smooth wooden blocks to go over the area ironed to take the heat out quickly. The heat is transferred to the blocks. This causes the glue to grab and starts the setting process but leaves enough time to go over the entire piece and re iron and smooth as needed ensuring all air pockets are removed and all edges bonded. The piece is then turned over and I use a sharp knife to trim the excess ensuring the blade runs along the length to be trimmed where the grain flows up and away with the direction of the cut. A final edge trim is done after 20 minutes when the bond strength permits usig a small inexpensive hand plane then 240 grit finishing paper to smooth if needed. The inside face is done with balancing veneers for any panel a4 sized or above which is unbraced. I have had good success with this method but it does require a degree of skill which only comes with practice and patience.
loudspeaker business???? May I see your creations?? Website?
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks a lot.. More veneer tuts plz.
Saving my A level project
thanks!
Any advice on using paper-backed veneers?
great vid
Great video! It was very helpful. Are you planning to post new videos?
Aims and objectives! I thought for a minute this was for submitting to Ofsted! :)
John - "a nationally accredited course which is inspected by Ofsted" I know! my comment was a joke!
Very useful. Thank you.
can veneer be use on fiber cement board? how?
дякую !
Great introduction and well presented!, does anyone know of a good supplier for thicker workable Vaneer that can be sanded and finished to high gloss finish? im currently using Vaneer that's 0.6mm thick and its not very workable, i would love to use Walnut blur to resurface the top of a pool table but it might be something a bit more advanced for a beginner....
Veneer you maniac. Walnut Burr you twit.
make mor3e veneering info. this guy is very good.
Now those are C-clamps!
How you dealing with the edge of the mdf,and do I need any type of primer/sealer before I start with the gluing of the veneer?Thanks!
Excellent demo. Question. Why not use epoxy for the glueing process and vacuum bag? I'm currently dreaming up a compass rose marquetry for a boat but it has to handle extremely humid environment. Also what are your thoughts on paper backed veneers for simplicity. Cheers
WOW! thanks so much for getting back about that question its been helpful. Staining from the epoxy huh? You've brought something up I've not thought about. I've never worked with veneers/exotic woods for boat projects so forgive me on my ignorance but on teak holly floors we use polyurathane for durability would you seal it with that then as a taped project thats been sealed with the poly ututhane epoxy it to the backing (sealed marine plywood), vacuum bag, then I was going to apply a UV non yelling self leveling epoxy? I was going use a 2ply zebrawood, Koa and Walnut to make the compass rose but you're saying to seal the marquetry 1st. Do you think I'm on the right track? Cheers thanks for the response.
Thank you that was very informative. (Y)
Not sure I would use a roller to make sure the veneer is well pushed down. Make up a traditional veneer hammer substituting a piece of hard hardwood for the iron we were always told was used. Iron can react badly with the tannin in some veneers such as Oak. Reason for the hammer over the roller is the contact area of a roller means you need super-human strength to achieve the same pressure on the veneer as with a hammer.
I've been hammer veneering for 60 years and always made my 'Hammer' using a 1/8" by 1"x 4" strip of brass insert as this does not react with the tanning, particularly in Oak
Thanks for the video, really great! I've recently been trying out veneering, but using PVA/wood glue and clamps approach, one thing I found was that some of the (walnut) burr veneer I had had some very small holes in it that allowed the glue to seep through and glue to the clamping boards. The veneer then got wrecked when I unclamped it all. I solved this by putting cling film between the veneer and clamping board - probably not a traditional approach! Quick question, when using the impact/contact glue, what's the reason for putting 2 coats of the glue on each side?
I'm sure it's because some of the first coat is absorbed into the pores of the wood. So the first coat essentially seals the wood, then the second coat is used for the gluing
Do not use evo stik on larger projects,especially if you using burr walnut which has a lot of movement over time.the joint will eventually creep ie meaning move apart.
@@mitsuracer87 SSD Seagate çok istiyorum inşallah canım hayırlısıyla nasip olur siddika çok daha çok girer ve iki daire basi çok iyi geceler canım benim çok istiyorum yaaa taş gibi mi var mi bura çok iyi geceler mesajları arattır ne zaman müsaitseniz haber ajansı sana ne oluyor kız öğrenci pansiyonu çok iyi gözünüz aydın olsun diye biz çıktık ve iki daire ve iki kat fazla borcu bitirip İstanbul'da çok iyi geceler canım bu ay içinde uygunsa bende bu ne böyle bı de muayene istasyonu açık hava tiyatrosu tarafından sahnelenen tiyatro festivali bu ay 🌙🌙🌙🌙🌙 da bir başka güzel rabbim bol müşteri hizmetleri çağrı ve asansor da bir on yıl sonra yeniden bir buçuk gibi mi var ya o da benim içime kurt 🐺🐺🐺 da ne bileyim hani herşeyi görsün da ne bileyim ben
@@mitsuracer87 da
I see trust is high: locked router bit cabinet...
Could you also cut the veneer on the edges,to make a fold line and then bend it arround the edge?
Erik cramer . Hi. In a word, no! Reason: wood is fibrous and all that will happen is the edge will look a mess.
Charles Watson hmm that sucks for me
Erik cramer : Ah well. The rude language emerges. Iron and the tannin in oak will create, not a surface discolouration, but a stain that can’t be removed. The roller against a veneer hammer is simply physics. If it sucks for you then I am delighted. I offered a couple of pieces of advice based on my many years of experience. Good bye. Shan’t bother to contribute anymore.
hey chuck...calm down m8. you'd think the guy kicked your dog or something. take the stick out before he tries to bite it. :o
@@kewlbns69 ]
Is there a glue side and the face side?
John McMahon School of Fine Woodwork Ltd
I wish looking to do a walnut veneer kitchen . do you recommend for kitchen. is it durable enough ?
Walnut is ok it's the finish that make it durable we used lacquer finish for kitchen cabinets but not counter top
fiona aquilina . Hi there. For the doors it is fine. For the work tops it is best to steer clear of laminated on chipboard ones. There are some great materials out there: Dekton, Corian Silstone etc. if you have gone to the expense of Walnut veneers and the time and trouble to produce a bespoke product then go for a really good top.
This guy likes to hear himself talk. could have done this video in 3 minutes if he didn't waste time telling you useless information