Thank you so much for this. I have been wanting to rewind my own armatures for a while now to get a nice sweet spot between 32TPA and 22TPA armatures. Will definitely be trying this very soon.
One of the best tutorials on the web. I always wanted to know about this. And still,a lot of questions remain open. Would like to see the second part video,like how do you apply the two part epoxy? And I guess,you will balance the armature lastly,when everything is done,right Sam? A lot of high end parts are needed for this,damn. So much work with this,this motor is worth every penny.
Not rewinding but my motor just stopped working after it blows my fuse and mosfet away testing externally off the gun. How do I test the armature for damage and will I be able to fix / salvage it for reusing? I have tested the commutator bar-to-bar resistivity and I am getting 0.8ohms all around, does this means that the commutator shorted?
great video Sam ! thank you!! where do you buy your magnetic wire ? how do you choose it's diameter ? and how do you clean the armature ? ( removing epoxy. .. )
Cheers :) I mostly buy the wire in from RS-Components or Farnell in the UK. Generally speaking, you want to use the thickest wire for your desired turn count, anything between 0.5mm (very high TPA) - 1mm (very low TPA) will be fine. The epoxy on the AAC motors is pretty easy to remove. Sometimes a fine, cylindrical hand file or some sand paper is required as well. Don't use any solvents or the protective coating on the armature will be damaged.
Could you tell me whether that includes with or without the lacquer on the outside, I have some that are 0.50 and 0.75 in diameter with the lacquer layer included. I can use the 0.75mm for some high TPA count armatures, assuming the lacquer isn't that thick. Also can you link the ones you use Sam?
On most the airsoft armatures I've seen they use resin as well, from what I can tell its optional? And any recommendations for doing this on a systema motor?
You need something to hold the windings in place. A lot of PTW motor builders use string and resin with a card/plastic insert and some resin over the top to hold everything in place. My preferred method is to use a potting epoxy specifically designed for coating motors. They generally have a higher thermal conductivity and are stronger and more chemical resistant :)
Cheers :) I'll need to go back and finish filming the second half of this. The process is almost identical for a PTW motor, though the armatures are longer so they won't fit on the usual comm lathes without modification.
great tutorial as always. I was actually very curious about this as I have an SHS arm that had a strand come off and the wire got crushed. Bad epoxy in the Chinese motors I guess.
Thanks :) One of the main problems is that only a couple of small blobs of epoxy are used in the centre of the arms. This leaves the top and bottom of the wires completely unsecured.
Kingdom of Airsoft yes, it actually was a part of the wire at the side that came off. Oh well, the SHS can made for a good 32TPA frankentorque. I kept the old armature in case I ever wanted to wind an armature but I had never seen a guide on it so I was reluctant
I'm pretty sure the gauge of matters, but I'm wondering if it's ok to use thicker wire, my logic says it's going to run cooler on the same voltage, but then the tpa is going to be lower in the same volume. What gauge wire is the airsoft standard?
Yeah, that's right. Winding motors is a bit of a balancing act (pun intended), it's generally best to use the thickest gauge wire for the TPA you're aiming for. 0.7mm - 0.9mm is pretty standard for high TPA to low TPA respectively.
Sorry about the delayed response. I don't know of any manufacturer who sells just the armatures but KIC in Taiwan do supply high quality motors and certain spare parts. I'd recommend practicing on any old motor and grabbing something from Action Army or Star Wei once you want to build something nice :)
I do indeed :) You're welcome to send it over any time, the address is up on the website. Just be sure to include a wee note with your return address and contact details ;)
Not rewinding, but my motor just stopped working after it burns my fuse & mosfet. How can i test if my armature is damaged? I hv tested the resistance for commutator bar-to-bar and i am getting 0.8ohms all around does this means the commutator shorted?
By trial and error, at last, i think i got super hjghspeed and torque, and it after a 3 full magazine, the motor is stable,,, there is many factor ti build it, to fast speed and torque
Its a stock 28TPA with neo magnet with around 0.6mm measured diameter. I was shimming the magnet and the armature prior to the testing. I am from south east asia btw
Ok, be sure, all parts is good, like spring, carbon, winding make sure it holdly tihgt. And the comutator, a little bit bigger tobthe original i s better. Magnetic Wire gauge, 21, 3phase rotor, 1st count is 15, 2nd is 15, and the 3rd is 16.. That is my winding of my motor..it can drive up to 170 spring in airsoft., and use battery turnigy nano tech2.2mah 40 c and up..
If the glue is on the commutator, the best way to remove it is with a comm lathe. Failing that, you can try to gently chip away at it (if it's epoxy) or chuck the armature in a dremel/drill and use some sand paper to remove it. If the glue is on the windings, you generally can't remove it without damaging the coils and having to rewind them. To remove glue on armatures I'm going to rewind anyway, I usually go in with a cutting disc on the dremel and grind it off; being very careful to avoid removing the insulating coating on the laminated armature plates.
I'm filing the inner surface of the comm tab to expose the bare copper underneath. This is so the wire can make a solid join to the tab when soldering it on.
Thank you Bro, I fixed my burnt motor!!
Thank you so much for this. I have been wanting to rewind my own armatures for a while now to get a nice sweet spot between 32TPA and 22TPA armatures. Will definitely be trying this very soon.
you would probably need 26awg wire for 32 tpa right?
Nice video👏👏👏
I have a 19g copper wire just want to ask if how many turns could i make for a high torque? Thank you
One of the best tutorials on the web. I always wanted to know about this. And still,a lot of questions remain open. Would like to see the second part video,like how do you apply the two part epoxy? And I guess,you will balance the armature lastly,when everything is done,right Sam? A lot of high end parts are needed for this,damn. So much work with this,this motor is worth every penny.
Hello, really love the video u made but can I use a 80watt soldering iron?
Not rewinding but my motor just stopped working after it blows my fuse and mosfet away testing externally off the gun. How do I test the armature for damage and will I be able to fix / salvage it for reusing?
I have tested the commutator bar-to-bar resistivity and I am getting 0.8ohms all around, does this means that the commutator shorted?
whats the AWG you are using? What wire would be the best for 28 or more tpa on the same long type motor? Thanks!!
Hi, I'm thinking of doing it on my systema, but what has me upset is knowing how to remove the epoxy
what is the AEG motor number??
like tamiya mini4wd is number after fa-130, wanna get some spare parts for airsoft ones
great video Sam ! thank you!!
where do you buy your magnetic wire ? how do you choose it's diameter ? and how do you clean the armature ? ( removing epoxy. .. )
Cheers :)
I mostly buy the wire in from RS-Components or Farnell in the UK.
Generally speaking, you want to use the thickest wire for your desired turn count, anything between 0.5mm (very high TPA) - 1mm (very low TPA) will be fine.
The epoxy on the AAC motors is pretty easy to remove. Sometimes a fine, cylindrical hand file or some sand paper is required as well.
Don't use any solvents or the protective coating on the armature will be damaged.
Could you tell me whether that includes with or without the lacquer on the outside, I have some that are 0.50 and 0.75 in diameter with the lacquer layer included. I can use the 0.75mm for some high TPA count armatures, assuming the lacquer isn't that thick. Also can you link the ones you use Sam?
What was the brand name of the epoxy that was used at the end
That was MG Chemicals high thermal transfer potting epoxy :)
On most the airsoft armatures I've seen they use resin as well, from what I can tell its optional? And any recommendations for doing this on a systema motor?
You need something to hold the windings in place. A lot of PTW motor builders use string and resin with a card/plastic insert and some resin over the top to hold everything in place.
My preferred method is to use a potting epoxy specifically designed for coating motors.
They generally have a higher thermal conductivity and are stronger and more chemical resistant :)
is that 22 number magnetic wire?
I use the tutorial for my RC car :D Good work on video!
Very good tutorial, does this process also apply to PTW motors?
Cheers :)
I'll need to go back and finish filming the second half of this.
The process is almost identical for a PTW motor, though the armatures are longer so they won't fit on the usual comm lathes without modification.
Hi Sam, great video/tutorial, the inevitable question I have to ask is, do you plan on selling these?
These are available right now :)
Drop me an email or PM and I'll get one sorted for you any time.
great tutorial as always. I was actually very curious about this as I have an SHS arm that had a strand come off and the wire got crushed. Bad epoxy in the Chinese motors I guess.
Thanks :)
One of the main problems is that only a couple of small blobs of epoxy are used in the centre of the arms.
This leaves the top and bottom of the wires completely unsecured.
Kingdom of Airsoft yes, it actually was a part of the wire at the side that came off. Oh well, the SHS can made for a good 32TPA frankentorque. I kept the old armature in case I ever wanted to wind an armature but I had never seen a guide on it so I was reluctant
I'm pretty sure the gauge of matters, but I'm wondering if it's ok to use thicker wire, my logic says it's going to run cooler on the same voltage, but then the tpa is going to be lower in the same volume. What gauge wire is the airsoft standard?
Yeah, that's right.
Winding motors is a bit of a balancing act (pun intended), it's generally best to use the thickest gauge wire for the TPA you're aiming for.
0.7mm - 0.9mm is pretty standard for high TPA to low TPA respectively.
great video, do you know if there is a manufacturer where i can bui new comuntators?
Sorry about the delayed response.
I don't know of any manufacturer who sells just the armatures but KIC in Taiwan do supply high quality motors and certain spare parts.
I'd recommend practicing on any old motor and grabbing something from Action Army or Star Wei once you want to build something nice :)
Could you use lead free solder do to this type of work ?
You could but it would be much more difficult and the results would be worse :p
do you rewind systema ptw motors? can I send mine to you?
I do indeed :)
You're welcome to send it over any time, the address is up on the website.
Just be sure to include a wee note with your return address and contact details ;)
What the size of a wire, high torque high speed?
Not rewinding, but my motor just stopped working after it burns my fuse & mosfet. How can i test if my armature is damaged? I hv tested the resistance for commutator bar-to-bar and i am getting 0.8ohms all around does this means the commutator shorted?
By trial and error, at last, i think i got super hjghspeed and torque, and it after a 3 full magazine, the motor is stable,,, there is many factor ti build it, to fast speed and torque
Wer u from budy?
Its a stock 28TPA with neo magnet with around 0.6mm measured diameter. I was shimming the magnet and the armature prior to the testing.
I am from south east asia btw
Ok, be sure, all parts is good, like spring, carbon, winding make sure it holdly tihgt. And the comutator, a little bit bigger tobthe original i s better. Magnetic Wire gauge, 21, 3phase rotor, 1st count is 15, 2nd is 15, and the 3rd is 16.. That is my winding of my motor..it can drive up to 170 spring in airsoft., and use battery turnigy nano tech2.2mah 40 c and up..
How to clean remove glue in aramture
If the glue is on the commutator, the best way to remove it is with a comm lathe.
Failing that, you can try to gently chip away at it (if it's epoxy) or chuck the armature in a dremel/drill and use some sand paper to remove it.
If the glue is on the windings, you generally can't remove it without damaging the coils and having to rewind them.
To remove glue on armatures I'm going to rewind anyway, I usually go in with a cutting disc on the dremel and grind it off; being very careful to avoid removing the insulating coating on the laminated armature plates.
3:18 wtf was that ?
I'm filing the inner surface of the comm tab to expose the bare copper underneath.
This is so the wire can make a solid join to the tab when soldering it on.
@@KingdomofAirsoftUK i mean , about the lagging in sound at 3:18 :)))
Hello, really love the video u made but can I use a 80watt soldering iron?