Voluming Explanation (redo)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- So I had to redo this but here it is. An explanation of what I understand about air volume in the AEG system and what kind of barrel and cylinder should and shouldn't get.
sites.google.c...
^details on how to get the HS5 calculator at the bottom of the page.
![What nobody tells you. [Lambda barrels]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0k36aktXh1I/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad to see you redid the video, good job thanks for the info. :D
Super Helpful man. Nice work getting all that info for us.
i enjoyed the way you said Tokyo Marui at 7:00 :)
you're supposed to roll the r a little and actually more pronounced than I usually do.
Hmm, interesting. Thanks for that little lesson
So basically, a ported cylinder for short barrel (like the m4, aks74u) and a non ported cylinder for longer barrel (like the m16, ak, dmr).
So no port over 300mm and ported for anything under 300mm?
Just FYI I have a stock type 0 cylinder with a stock 472mm barrel, that thing shoots flawlessly, I then installed a 455mm barrel and no change, so I'm assuming 472mm is the limit on cylinder volume to barrel volume, unless someone has a barrel longer than 472mm.
Elfren Authorlee PSG-1 has a 500mm barrel
Charlie Whelan 590mm*
Can you do a spec video on your bow flex thanks
DMR shniper rifle seal team 6 scout sniper super operator setup
if you want to get rid a little or all the porting ,wrap with tape RG COINED THIS !!!
Joule creep is a shitty thing to do and more fields should be measuring by joules with their _own_ bbs. Anything with a long barrel should have it's .2 and .3 and .4 measured.
they "should" but most won't. Some event organizers are getting smarter though.
I am shooting .25 with 407mm/6.03 barrel. Do i need full cylinder or ported one like 80% volume ?
probably a slight port but I would just do full and up your BB weight if you can
Nice effort there, spot on as far as I can tell!
Oh, and you might do some messing around with different camera angles…. But good job.
I've thought of trying some different angles and B roll but these videos take long enough for me to get my lazy ass around to making and uploading I feel like that would delay things even more. Right now I'm more concerned about getting the info out there. I do have some plans for some gameplay videos at some point though
Quick question. I have an m4 DMR I built with a ares gearbox with a m140 Spring. The stock cylinder is a type 0 (no port). I have a 509mm x6.03 tbb. I can not figure out the ratio that I have between cylinder and barrel but I do have sorbo to correct aoe. I have perfect airseal but the bbs always fly up about 70-80 ft away. Should I consider a gaurder type 0 m4 bore cylinder or even expand the window and put in a sr25 bore up? Any info would be appreciated.
+Stev3419 Does it have to be that long? You might just install a shorter inner barrel. if the bb's are flying up you might have a hop up setup that is overhopping but I don't think the issues is caused by your air volume ratio.
+valleyriverarms The hop up adjustment doesn't do much with the 509mm barrel. it shoots perfectly straight with the stock barrel but the stock barrel is only about 300mm. If I use the 509mm barrel and I back the hop up off the slightest bit the the pellets go straight down after about 40-50 from leaving the barrel. I have sorbo pad in the cylinder for aoe correction so i loose quite a bit of volume in there. I've done the math and the cylinder to barrel ratio I have right now is around 1.6:1. The 2 people I know with dmrs have an air ratio around 1.9-2.1:1 but they are both sr25s with the longer cylinder but still have a 509mm barrel. I spent a good amount on buying my 509 mm stainless steel Prometheus type tightbore and have about $600 in the gun so I would like to use this barrel with the gearbox I've built up. If I do not get it straightened out anytime soon I might end up putting a polarstar Jack into it instead but as I stated would rather use the gearbox that I put the money into
+Stev3419 way too long of a barrel. get a 400-455mm. have one installed in my ak, much better accuracy
Maybe ported bore up cylinders exists for DSGs
Oh you just said that
"It went to hell" alright good first minute already
Fantastic job explaining this. Im new to aeg's (used hpa for years) simply switching from a ported cylinder to a non ported cylinder gives joule creep with a more "shortish" barrel. Is weighing the piston just going to give even more on top of this as well?
yeah ive heard of people doing this
9:37 boreup kits with ported cylinder are fot dsg and ssg shote stroke builds to get s bump in air ratio in the sort lenght of cylinder there piston moves in.
You happen to know whats the optimal barrel length for those extended v2 gearboxes SR25´s have, as I understand the cylinder in them is quite a bit longer? Also do you know if they have bore up kits for those?
I imagine there's a bore up kit but I don't know where you would find it. use the calculator for the optimal barrel length because idk what it is.
Where's the link? Or should I not be lazy and research it haha
updated
wouldnt it be theoretically better to get cyllinders without holes, then do the math and put the hole in the right spot for the volume to be matched with the barrel ?
i mean i can assume that way it would be the most accurate to match right? is there also something to say about the amount of compression that takes place by the speed and weight of the piston ?
sure yeah that would be the better option but that requires extra work most people don't wanna do
What cylinder should i use on 300m 6.01 barrel length
ported one on the more aggressive side
Hi!!! i have some issues with air voluming, i hope you can help me out
Cylinder volume ratio: 31141
Barrel volume ratio: 12993
Total ratio: 2.39
Mi barrel is a 4.55mm 6.03 bore
Mi question is, may i need to do some kind of tip hole to mi cylinder?
thanks and have a nice day
For anything longer than 400mm you want a full cylinder with no ports
I was wondering what you think of most stock cylinders, do company's mostly get this ratio right or no ?
Depends on the company and the gun. Most of them probably not. It's pretty common to use a full cylinder in a lot of things.
Ok, so when my cousin’s gun shoots I can literally see with my bare eyes, compressed (gassy looking) air coming out of the barrel after the B.B., is this a possible sign of overly high compression volume?
Yeet 4K are you sure it’s not a gbbr
you might have too much oil in your gun too
Hey i have been making this build for a while now and i believe i am having a airvolume issue k so i have a type 0 cylinder with perfect compression system a tight bore 6.03 inner barrel and short stroked 1 tooth I did some research and in theory my barrel length and cylinder are match up with a 2.35:1 ratio and i should be slightly over voluming it but (i also took off 5 mm from the cylinder in the calculator for the sorbo with the short stroke) My barrel is 420mm so i should be shooting fine right but no its having the same results as it did with a 510mm inner barrel and its just dropping like my friends use to be (undervolumed gun but it is fixed) it is truly dissapointing when you have an m130 and your only getting like 50ft max in range any what should i do? Could it possibly be the how soft the sorbo pad is?
are your fps results lower than they should be? That's a better quantifier than range. Although that is a bit low. Check to make sure you're not losing fps in the bucking seal. Sorbo does compress but I'm not sure it would be that drastic. Possibly try different springs to rule out a soft spring.
well i actualy tried 3 buckings a lonex matrix and g&g same results. Its the hardest spring i got and my i think i allready told you but my friends guns used to be having around the same results but when we put in a full cylinder and then it worked fine it kinda just drops out of the barrel even though the hop up is turned all the way up (btw its a lonex M130) thanks but i dont thinks its the spring nor the bucking would you know any other ways?
Rau123 For good measure might try Madbull blue. They seal super tight. If your hop up is turned all the way up it might be too aggressive and is slowing the bb down depending on the shape of the bucking on the nub. I would still check for any obstructions and possibly try another spring to see if anything changes. A lot of this is going to be isolating problems.
valleyriverarms i guess it wont hurt to try but i am not convinced that it is the hopup but i should have told you before i did tried my friends hopup also that works in his gun great and the results were also the same he has a g&g hop up same as mine with A+ bucking and the same thing happened i was just thinking of this could it possibly be the delayer chip, or possibly barrel suck it also has a really low fps like 300fps but like what you said i will try an m120 see how that goes. btw thanks very much for responding i think your the only youtuber that has responded to every question i have asked.
How about TEFLON cylinders ?
Angelos Tselios Teflon in cylinders just protects and "lubes" it. The piston goes smoothly in teflon cylinders. I have Deep Fire's teflon cylinder
When you read my long name, I stole your sandwich
Yes, I just wanted your opinion if teflon its better to buy a teflon cylinder, or the best occasion to use them.
Thanks !!!
Doesn't your spring strength also play into it all?
Tech question
Guarder bore up kit ( www.evike.com/products/28017/) for my vfc m4( www.evike.com/products/31981/) yay or nay? And your opinion on guarder. Thank you ^-^
I think I explained in the video that I think bore up kits with a port in them are dumb. Because you're bleeding out the air volume you're trying to increase. Guarder airseal parts in general are pretty nice though.
Okay thanks. And have you ever had problems with the piston head?
Nope. Rarely use bore up though