Audi Q5 clicking CV joint, torn boot, axle and wheel bearing replacement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- In this video I will be working on a 2015 Audi Q5 2.0L. Both cv joint boots are torn and the driver side is making a clicking noise when turning. The driver side will need a replacement axle shaft. If that wasn't enough, both of the wheel bearing are bad, making noise, and need to be removed and replaced.
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:58 Removing axle
3:11 Disassembling axle
5:16 Installing new cv boot kit
7:02 Replacing wheel bearing
11:24 Installing new axle
Parts and Cost Breakdown
--------------------------------------------
CV Boot Kit - GKN - $39.95
New Import Direct axle shaft from OReilley's (drivers side) - $191
New Audi wheel bearing kit (passenger side) - $350
New Duralast wheel bearing kit from AutoZone (drive side) - $89.99
Bearing puller - $25 rental from AutoZone
Pittsburgh hex socket set from Harbor Freight - $29.99
Torque Values
------------------------
Axle to wheel hub bolt - 200NM plus 180 degrees
Axle to transmission bolts - 70NM
Wheel bearing to knuckle bolts - 80NM plus 90 degree
Wheel bolts - 145NM
Brake caliper to carrier bolts - 196NM
www.happywrenching.com
Music in this video -
Wanted by Purrple Cat | purrplecat.com/Music promoted by www.chosic.com/free-music/all... Commons CC BY-SA 3.0creativecommons.org/licenses/... 
Авто/Мото
![NoCap - Yacht Party [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rm_lvDln8kE/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is dope. Heard the clicking, found the torn boot and thought “damn, that looks like it’s going to be expensive”, then thought the axle doesn’t look that hard to get out. 5 seconds of googling brought me here and got this fixed in about an hour. Don’t think I’ve ever tackled a repair for the first time and had it go this smoothly thanks to this video.
Tip for anyone who lands here struggling with getting any of the bolts off: buy some PB blaster. That stuff is magic.
Also had an issue with clicking on the driver's side as I turned left. Boot was torn and grease was flung everywhere. This video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Thanks for posting the torque values too! Shifting into neutral let me rotate the axle shaft to get off all the bolts. Also recommend the guy at Raxles; felt very dated to have to telephone him to place an order but he was very friendly and helpful. Fast shipping too.
This video is AWESOME. You are honest and unbiased. I like the way you give different options
At 2:45 you can see a part of the sheetmetal in engine bay is cut away. You cannot access the heat shield from the wheelwell without the modification. There are 3 bolts on the heat shield, one of them is completely inaccessible from the wheelwell (and completely blind access from the top). I recommend leave the heat shield alone, use a floor jack to raise the rotor/disc to the highest position possible, steering cranked full-left. This will give just barely enough room to remove and replace.
You should wear a cape my man! I struggled with passenger side for a couple of hours & was getting ready to take loosen the suspension when I came across your tip in the comments. Tried it and had the job done in half & hour. Thank you!!
Oof wish I saw this before I went ahead with the heat shield removal
Great video. Thanks! The new boot for my 2016 Q5 just came yesterday and I'm getting ready to tackle it this morning.
Thank you, it's clean and neat👍, I just changed the right cv axle and the noise which was the same as yours is gone. 🙏
Thanks for the video. Just replaced the CV axle on my wife’s car. Took longer than expected but it all worked out. Thanks for explaining all the tools needed and torque values.
Awesome video! I just finished replacing the CV axles on my 2016 Q5 and your video was very helpful. Thank you for including all the torque specs. Great job editing, the video was well done.
Thanks for the video just did the axle replacement. Removing and replacing the heat shield on passenger side was a pain in the a$$ even with all the swivels and extensions. If you’ve had the pinch bolt out recently that might be easier.
Thank you for the excellent video, well done! I changed the driver's side axle on my 2015 Q5 using your clear instructions and it went very Smooth! Best regards!
This is great. I just test drove an Audi Q5 that had this sound. Now I have leverage to negotiate!
Great work! Thank you. I find your video to be quite helpful.
very good explain and good video ,thank you
I only need to change the outer CV joint, but this method removing the whole axle seems a lot easier than messing with the control arms.
Very good🤙
Helps owners like me. Lucky I bought an extended warranty on my 2017 q5. I have 95km and am a light driver but I have owned Audi’s for 17 years….big problems happen near end of warranty! Thanks
I have owned several older audi’s and its always a love/hate thing with them. They are amazing when they work correctly but are such a headache when they break down.
@@happywrenching i may switch brands- apparently new Mercedes are getting higher reliability than Audi….My old 1990 Honda Civic Si was a gem! Should have kept it
Thank you
Amazing 🎉Video!
I've replaced both CV axles (had torn boots), and there is one wheel bearing that is slightly clicking. How urgent is it to replace the wheel bearing if it is clicking (similar sound to 7:02 in your video)?
Hey man quick question? I see now what the difference is between a 2012 and 2013 Audi q5 2.0t front axle. Just because I have 2013 with a torn boot and I have a 2012 parts q5 with good axles. And anyways researching wise it shows that it fits 2009-2012 and 2013 and up is different but I tried the 2012 axle on the 2013 and splines and all lined up and bolted down good. Driving on it doesn’t make no noises and drives good. And also the length is the same. Would you have any input on This? Should I be ok with a 2012 full oem axle on the 2013? Btw great video on how to change the boot. I did buy the axle boot kit for the 2013 axle but wanted to see about the input if a 2012 axle is ok to run on a 2013
Hi, that's great video!!
That make me curious about my car Audi Q5 2010, current symptom. The sound I heard from your video on test drive sessopm a bit low but with my headphone I could heard sound similar to my car which had symptom like this: When I drive off speed below 20 KM, no sound at all, but when I start to speed up from 20-40km I heard that sound (really not sure how to explain about the sound). But when the car speed up to 100KM sometime I could still hear the sound but sometime no sound.
So with that descripted symptom it could possible cause by wheel bearing? BTW, I only heard sound on driver side and I had already tried to chang the drive shaft on driver side but I can still hear the same sound. Any suggestion would be helpful and appreciated.
FCP Euro for the win!
I wonder how is the O'Reilly Axle doing so far?
Hello. When ac joint is broken the gearboxe shows failure?
Can you send a link to the parts that you used?
Tips for the inner triple square bolts? Only was able to break one free
Best thing to use is an electric impact wrench. If that’s not available then a regular wrench and a breaker bar for more leverage.
Hi , that’s great video
I have a question if my cv axle leaking oil only one side so I have to change both side or just one side only? Thx
If the other side is not leaking, not torn, and not making noise, there is no need to replace.
What’s the code for the wheel bearing my gosh not one person mentioned it
When replacing the wheel bearing, did you purchase the new wheel bearing kit from Audi, or just the Duralast bearing DL513301? Do you need the whole hub assembly for this Audi?
I actually purchased both - Audi for one side and Duralast for the other - just to see the difference. Both have held up fine so far. Both come with new bolts. Not sure what you mean by needing the whole assembly - DL513301 is the whole hub assembly
Good job using those legs on that axel bolt 😂
The boot is fixed but now we have some dents and scratches on the hood...
Raxles out of Florida are excellent and affordable.
Agree, they are the closest thing to oem quality. A good middle ground between cheap aftermarket axles and oem.
My 2018 S4 sounds like this. The clicking/tapping in the beginning of the video, is that an axle making that noise? I replaced the driver axle, but it sounds like it could be coming from the passenger side also. Sounds like its right in the middle. The passenger axle makes the click if I jack it up and pull/push up and down the axle shaft, is that a tell-tale sign?
Yes, those are the worn out ball bearings inside the axle joint that are making that clicking noise in the video. Shouldn't be making any noise if you pull/push up and down on the axle shaft.
You said it should be replaced but you re-used the joint anyway with the same bearings that fell out?
Good catch, and I should have explained better. I showed the footage of the bearings falling out of the driver side axle and then cut to the footage of me replacing the boot on the passenger axle. The driver side I replaced the whole axle with the Import Direct part.
Can you reuse the axle bolt?
No!
Having replaced cv shafts on a vw/Audi car I would never recommend getting a aftermarket cv shaft. Vw/Audi uses a hollow shaft that aftermarket cv shafts don’t use. This will cause vibrations while driving. Only rebuild vw/Audi cv shafts
No issues with this Import Direct axle from OReilly's. Granted I've only put about 100 miles but so far no vibrations and no noise. With power tools the driver side axle on the Q5 can be swapped out in 15 minutes. With the lifetime warranty it was fairly low risk decision. A lot of aftermarket axles have issues so I agree, if you want to avoid potential problems go with a replacement from raxles. Cost is $400 as of 7/19/2022 and they reuse the original audi shafts with all new joints, boots, etc.
Wow Thanks you , I have this problem and Audi want to charge me 1800$ I love my Audi Q5 . A friend tell me to change only the little piece inside 🤷🏾♂️I don’t know what to do
If I change only the piece is going to cost me half .
@@yantha9028 The little piece inside is the actual cv joint itself. If you are in the U.S, I recommend getting a rebuilt axle from raxles.com.
what is the name of these tools?
Not sure which tools specifically you are referring to - I use Milwaukee electric impact and ratchet. QuickJack to lift the car, random sockets and extensions.
Do you have the reference for the little red torque measuring tool you use at 12:15?
Your part from Oriley's is also a cheap Chinese axle. Only buy GKN replacements from an import specialty suppler.
I'm referring to the $65 axles that can be bought on most site. The Oreiley axle may be Chinese but its a step up. No issues with mine after 5,000 miles.
@@happywrenching Honestly the Oreiley branded ones are not much better. I hope you saved your original to rebuild with GKN joints.
Honestly, if Audi made great axles, they would last longer. My opinion, go with Duralast or ORielly brand. They will outlast German OEM cr&p