I think you starting your videos this winter with the wood stove burning nice and warm and a bear skin rug in front of your chair sipping on some Bailey's. That's almost the perfect intro!
"What a spring!" is the quote of the day. 3 wks ago snowy icy windy trying to be spring. 94deg f yesterday and bone dry. Finally a shower or 2 last night. And more calls, text, and messages from people wanting nucs. Sold out, sold out, sold out....
Black Bears are part of my environment and electric fences are a must. I have a fancy stick/root that I keep in my truck and when in the out yards I put it on the front windshield as a reminder to turn on the fence controller before driving off. In the past I wondered, did I turn it on or did I forget, did I turn it on or did I forget? That resulted often in driving back to make sure I did. Hahahahaha Bears are just as bad as varroa, either one does not get your hive to winter :-)
Good Morning Ian. The sugar water... Like I stated last clip. So I am researching the chlorine demand and residue that bees can take. The cheap way we can keep our sugar water clean and mold-free. I worked with Acid Rain studies in the early 80s Appling want I learned with water science in the lab. Here is the bottom line. We can pull off clean feeders after a couple of feedings. The other thing I working with is a new way of feeling sugar water.
I'm interested to see how your queens and colonies fare over winter as compared to the new packages. I'd wager there's going to be much higher success over-wintering with your stock vs the new stock. Are you leaving the queens with the new packages or re-queening them? If we get too dependent on medications, do we lose the ability to breed strong queens? This weekend I'm planning on going back and watching your videos on the queen rearing, as I intend to emulate elements of your methods as I begin my own program. Thanks for the information on how you interact with the labs, researchers, etc. I think that is cool.
And I've often wondered if a propolis tincture in the feed would be helpful. Last year we built all of our supers with a ruffed interior. But honestly I've seen more propolis in the boxes after we groove the heck out of them with Dremels. I've also put propolis traps under all the covers. Not this early to harvest it but just up the load. The University of Minnesota egg campus is just south of me and I'm pretty familiar with their research there. Just a thought sir, God bless and keep at it.
Bloody chalk brood... I had in one infected hive last year and they made it through the winter but it has persisted. They have a new queen and I'll stick on some formic pro to ease the pressure from Varroa but I'm essentially leaving them to their own devices. Queen excluder is on so I'm hoping they plug out the top box and then clean out the bottom box.
Ian should a gallon bucket of clorax water to clean hive tool and rubber dipped gloves or use blue surg gloves between yards help when in the thick of the fight Would that help drop the spread
We had a nice warm spell early in spring and then poof winter returned for two nights and a bit later I noticed some damaged brood. Had to remind myself of the little cold snap.
Bears everywhere. I have them in East Tennessee. Tie your middle wire directly to the ground, too. Top and bottom is hot. Ensures a better zap. Thanks for posting the video. It was important.
Ian, what do you think on additional thermal insulation for smaller families? Nighttime cold can be one of the stressors that triggers calcified brood.
Is it chalk brood or is it moldy/dead old pollen pellets being cleaned out of the dead-out frames? I was fooled by that a couple times. I also do not see CB in my hives, my queens. Only see it (occasionally) when I bring in some bought/import queens. Is what you see from the package bees hives? The package is great to get bees in the boxes and save the season, but it is then prudent to stay on the program to requeen them with your own queens over the summer.
Ian those old combs are part of the problem. But you need to remember your hives are in a dark shed for 6 months at minus 15 deg. Realistically you are pushing shit up hill but doing fairly well with your location. Mass amout of supplements isn't what they really want but no option outside. Very short honey window. But you make it work.
Bee do not have a strong immune system they rely on the propalis. The bennefit would be steady build up and lot of royal jelly. If the Honey bees live a week longer than that would be a result. Would be good to know if trees are producing stronger saps older in age or younger in age might solve the issues we see in farming for using pesticides if the trees did it but now are not old enough to do it.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. Could the supplement protein fed in autumn be a contributing factor? Had a secret ingredient in it as well?? You put a lot of effort into setting up your apiary for last winter. New queens will be a good investment.
The supplement isn’t a new feed strategy, it’s routine. The difference has been extreme drought, followed by 2 extremely long winters. Varroa mite bombs, high vital levels and outbreaks of nosema, Now mange through that
Hi Ian, thanks for your great work, it has helped me greatly with my small apiary in Princeton, BC. I have the apis biologix bio-activator and bio-control products. Do these contain the anti- virals you are using in your trials?
My two bits. 80% of the time Chalk brood is human error, (can be miss diagnosed, can be starvation.) 10% fungi weather, 10% bad Queen gens or old Queen. I learned the hard way so I don't... tips 1. don't take nurse bees out of a small hive 2. I don't move frames on small hives, (except if absolutely needed.) 3. The Fungus is in the frames and in old pollen, not in the queens. 4. I don't shake the frames with brood in them, (use brush.) 5. The bees will clean the frames with nectar or sugar water, but this takes a little time. My bees recovered in 2 weeks. Some times they will remove all of the old pollen and put is nectar to clean it, before going back to pollen in the same cell. We can give a boost with a good pollen patty and sugar water as we wait for them clean up the mess.
Hi Ian. Any tips regarding queen introduction to an established colony? It happend to me many times that they started emergency cells by the time of release, and of course, she was K.O. Now I have to wait 8-10 days for all the eggs to become mature larvae,destroy QC. 100% acceptance, but lose a lot of days with eggs not being produced. Thanks
Oh man... so many comments! I have to run fences in every yard, so I know the monetary pain. As for the chalkbrood, have you found that replacing the queen solves the issue? I've been battling low level chalkbrood the last few years, and replacing queens doesn't seem to make a difference. It's frustrating to see the pile of mummies but pull out big beautiful frames of brood. A queen clearly doing a dang good job of laying, bees doing a dang good job of working what she's laying, but they never seem to get a handle on it. They don't die over the winter.
Have enjoyed you videos for years. I run 250 - 300 hives. You have more chalk brood than you have had for years. Could it be that the nutrition in your patties is not meeting the need for your bees this year. You changed your supplier. Worth a thought.
Yes definitely not meeting their requirements, nothing beats pollen but what we have going here saved my ass (personal observation) nosema put tremendous nutritional demand on the bees during a time of a lack of natural nutrition. Singles have less reserves than doubles, because of that singles suffered this year for nourishment. My Patty filled in that deficit. But the stressors still expressed itself
Hey, love your stuff, just bought some biologix myself. Maybe you mentioned this in the video, is the control group sugar syrup and apis biologix? So the only variable added is the antiviral? Or did you add two variables to the experiment hives by adding antiviral and apis bioligix?
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog Although anecdotal, The difference is definitely visible in the video between the two tests. Do you think the growth difference in the video is the biologix? Have you seen the biologix produce similar results without the antiviral? I sure hope this gets you thriving after the rough year you’ve had!
This is my farmer observations but yes, absolutely. I use this product for the exact reason that I helps collaborate on its development. I’m Just the bees, that’s all I contributed into this project. Andrew is the business around it
Ian I am watching this on video and not anything like opening a hive in person. So this is just an educated guess. Nosema Cernae looks like the culprit to me. MAYBE a touch of European Foulbrood. I do not know if you feed antibiotics or Fumagilan in your feed. Never seen either administered in your videos and I’m a loyal fan. In Saskatchewan NC has been a huge problem for me, maybe more so than mites. Seems easily controlled in spring by “cup of soup method”. Often seen large improvements in colony after just a single treatment of the three treatment regiment. I feel I get a better bang for the buck with the cup of soup than feeding in pails. Just “farmer experiment”.
Just an observation but can’t hurt to mention it, I’m wondering if your problem with nozsema and then chalk brood stems from not having enough ventilation in your colonies during winter shed storage? Wonder if you’ve tried cutting a two inch strip out of your migratory cover space strips to allow air flow? Personally I leave front entrance wide open 3/4” full width, also a 3/4” hole through the edge of telescoping cover, I also have 5/8” strip’s around inner perimeter but on rear it’s turned to the 3/4” size which props cover slightly. Also I’m in Pennsylvania so not the brutal winter you have but we get sub zero temps that last several days to weeks at a time. Just an observation! Thanks for all you do for the beekeeping family! Just so you know I hadn’t watched the clip about the study prior to this msg. I’ve been watching the 4x4 stream from a few weeks ago
Yes possibly, but not a problem other winters I did however put my entrances in too soon and I think I had seen a direct result from that, but the lingering winter is the main blame
Bear meat is good eating. A third set if hives for your control, hives with only the antiviral. Might the "Rocket fuel" have contributed to the old queen issue, by encouraging the swarming of the young queens that the hive might have used to re-queened the hive.
Alltech has a product cooled BioMos, it is “imunomodulation” that enhance the imuno system os several animals. I have no idea if it will work on bees. All the best from Brazil!
My farmer mind would figure that if my livestock have stomach issues , its likely what they're eating.. seems like the only thing thats changed jn the past few years is this "rocket fuel" and now they're are a bunch of issues..
Do you see a correlation between dark old brood frames and chalk brood . I found with old brood combs, sunken cappings and canibalisation often occured with some chalkbrood especialy in cool weather .i got a test done ,not afb. My suspicions include chemical residue,also chilled brood due to old stored pollen scattering the laying pattern. Im dealing with this thanks to plastic foundation and bee breeding from Rottnest island. All the best anyway.
What is the actually cause of chalk brood and is it always a Queen issue? If it isn't always the Queen then it has to be an external pressure on the colony. With it showing up in so many different colonies it has to have been something that was common to those colonies. Huge visual difference in those farmer tests colonies there Ian.👍
Chalkbrood disease is caused by the fungus Ascosphaera apis. The fungus rarely kills infected colonies but can weaken it and lead to reduced honey yields and susceptibility to other bee pests and diseases. Young infected larvae do not usually show signs of disease but will die upon being sealed in their cells as pupae. Worker bees will uncap the cells of dead larvae, making mummies clearly visible, before sometimes removing the mummified larvae and depositing them on the hive floor or at the entrance to the hive. Chalkbrood disease is present throughout most of Australia and its incidence is generally higher when a colony is subject to temperature changes, particularly cooler weather, or other sources of stress.
whats his store for this stuff. I think I will try it out in a yard and see for myself. Im kinda a real prick when it comes to stuff so i'd be happy to DDX the stuff and see how it is.
I found that after chalkbrood it can go to afb and efb next. Takes a few years or so. You should really send a sample from all your apiraries to the lab.
Looks like a big difference, fingers crossed it works out. Is the control no treatment at all or are they getting something like honey B healthy etc? Thank you.
Well? While I am not no expert! But if I was to call it on Bee numbers? It seams the plane, hives do not have the numbers compared to the treated hives.. but the lab numbers will tell for sure.. lol your having a problem with bears an I am having problem with raccoons trying to have a sweet tooth.. sooner or later Smith and Wesson will win the battle ashes to ashes, dust to dust break into my hives, and pay the ultimate penalty! But as to stress? I am convinced this cold spring has set mine back a full month 😤
@@darrenbeachy7413 lol I would if it would work ☹️ I have 23 outside bait stations on the farm an the ring tails, reach in, bend the wires and steal the bait all 23 bait stations have dog chain, bolted to them, because the raccoons, steal the whole bait station if you don’t … 🤷🏻♂️ Edit an I have tried 4 major brands of block bait an they eat it like candy even the Switzerland poison
Im Going to assume you selected two colonies sitting side by side to bee of similar size/strength in starting the experiment. Though in the field there are uncontrollable variables as well as genetic ones, the..well, I mean I'm easily impressed, but that's a staggering difference. The results speak for themselves.
Ya I agree, so many variables and such a stark difference that I considered not showing this. The colonies were sorted so that each group was chosen at random but sorted so that each had a very strong, medium and small size. It just happened to be side by side as shown. Numbers will tell the truth of what we were trying to determine
Yes, exactly. It’s why we see such improvement when the pollen flows. Applying that to a supplement feed. Some of this pollen has residues. There are also times when I don’t have pollen
Me well over there x4 of the biggest pit bull dogs officer officer the dogs killed the bear 🐻 or a 12 gauge semi auto shells full of rock salt plus 4 pit bulls. As for other problem no go on it mites what a bastard of a thing to put up with life is bad now with the cost on everything. BEST OF LUCK WITH IT.
OK so you are dealing with behavior. Not really Bears. Think of those Bears around the salmon in the river. Behavior. So ~ Don't you think? ~. The very best way to deal with the Bears is to, well, (probably somebody has already said this) but, Just hang around with a big gun until the bear shows up. Kill the bear and presto! No more behavior. Suddenly you are in the Dead Bear business. Right? Could be a bunch of cubs that were born hanging around. The electric fence sure. But the Bears will always be there, waiting for the slightest mistake. Mark my words. The Bears will not go away. They are checking and waiting. Just like you. Maybe you could teach them to be their own beekeepers? Maybe that would be worth trying. Now that would be something. Bears and Honey. A legendary relationship I'll tell ya. Keep up the reports. Thank you. This story is not over. I'll tell ya.
Brass is a very good bear deterrent, especially when applied via a Mauser barrel.
I think you starting your videos this winter with the wood stove burning nice and warm and a bear skin rug in front of your chair sipping on some Bailey's. That's almost the perfect intro!
Ian I’m glad you shared this it’s good to see the research that is going on
There definitely appears to be a massive difference between control and anti-viral! Thanks for sharing Ian!
"What a spring!" is the quote of the day. 3 wks ago snowy icy windy trying to be spring. 94deg f yesterday and bone dry. Finally a shower or 2 last night. And more calls, text, and messages from people wanting nucs. Sold out, sold out, sold out....
Black Bears are part of my environment and electric fences are a must.
I have a fancy stick/root that I keep in my truck and when in the out yards I put it on the front windshield as a reminder to turn on the fence controller before driving off.
In the past I wondered, did I turn it on or did I forget, did I turn it on or did I forget?
That resulted often in driving back to make sure I did. Hahahahaha
Bears are just as bad as varroa, either one does not get your hive to winter :-)
I’m being lessened by bears, something that I have rarely encountered
Same thing I asked myself this morning. Only Thursday. Arg.
Looks promising so far, I REALLY hope this anti-viral turns out to be as effective as it looks. Beekeepers need all the help they can get
thank you for sharing. this keeps us interested in your experiment
Good Morning Ian. The sugar water... Like I stated last clip. So I am researching the chlorine demand and residue that bees can take. The cheap way we can keep our sugar water clean and mold-free. I worked with Acid Rain studies in the early 80s Appling want I learned with water science in the lab. Here is the bottom line. We can pull off clean feeders after a couple of feedings. The other thing I working with is a new way of feeling sugar water.
I’d like you to keep me posted
wow very impressive looking forward to more information on this thank you and Andrew
I'm interested to see how your queens and colonies fare over winter as compared to the new packages. I'd wager there's going to be much higher success over-wintering with your stock vs the new stock. Are you leaving the queens with the new packages or re-queening them? If we get too dependent on medications, do we lose the ability to breed strong queens? This weekend I'm planning on going back and watching your videos on the queen rearing, as I intend to emulate elements of your methods as I begin my own program. Thanks for the information on how you interact with the labs, researchers, etc. I think that is cool.
Thank you for your preliminary results. I’m looking forward to the data. Interesting.
And I've often wondered if a propolis tincture in the feed would be helpful.
Last year we built all of our supers with a ruffed interior. But honestly I've seen more propolis in the boxes after we groove the heck out of them with Dremels.
I've also put propolis traps under all the covers. Not this early to harvest it but just up the load.
The University of Minnesota egg campus is just south of me and I'm pretty familiar with their research there.
Just a thought sir, God bless and keep at it.
Bloody chalk brood... I had in one infected hive last year and they made it through the winter but it has persisted. They have a new queen and I'll stick on some formic pro to ease the pressure from Varroa but I'm essentially leaving them to their own devices. Queen excluder is on so I'm hoping they plug out the top box and then clean out the bottom box.
Ian should a gallon bucket of clorax water to clean hive tool and rubber dipped gloves or use blue surg gloves between yards help when in the thick of the fight
Would that help drop the spread
We had a nice warm spell early in spring and then poof winter returned for two nights and a bit later I noticed some damaged brood.
Had to remind myself of the little cold snap.
Bears everywhere. I have them in East Tennessee. Tie your middle wire directly to the ground, too. Top and bottom is hot. Ensures a better zap.
Thanks for posting the video. It was important.
Just saw the report that there are more bears in east tn than usual.
@@heehaw8401 Nothing here during hunting season. Of course, I could put a hive in my food plot, lol.
@@DoubleTopHoneyCo lol. That would work.
Bill, can I run your three hot wire setup without the earth ground? I have my hives on a plastic plank elevated deck.
Major drought in New Jersey and nectar slow down! You're not alone Ian!!
My two cents... Use bleach to spray on bees and frames and you'll save them from chalk brood. Also garlic solution is good for that.
Ian, what do you think on additional thermal insulation for smaller families? Nighttime cold can be one of the stressors that triggers calcified brood.
petit coucou de la France ..😉😉
Very Interesting Video!!👍
Is it chalk brood or is it moldy/dead old pollen pellets being cleaned out of the dead-out frames? I was fooled by that a couple times.
I also do not see CB in my hives, my queens. Only see it (occasionally) when I bring in some bought/import queens. Is what you see from the package bees hives?
The package is great to get bees in the boxes and save the season, but it is then prudent to stay on the program to requeen them with your own queens over the summer.
Can’t wait to hear the lab results! Thanks Ian.
Ian those old combs are part of the problem. But you need to remember your hives are in a dark shed for 6 months at minus 15 deg. Realistically you are pushing shit up hill but doing fairly well with your location. Mass amout of supplements isn't what they really want but no option outside. Very short honey window. But you make it work.
Bee do not have a strong immune system they rely on the propalis. The bennefit would be steady build up and lot of royal jelly. If the Honey bees live a week longer than that would be a result. Would be good to know if trees are producing stronger saps older in age or younger in age might solve the issues we see in farming for using pesticides if the trees did it but now are not old enough to do it.
Excited for the results. Thanks for all your hard work. Good luck with the bear fencing too.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing.
Could the supplement protein fed in autumn be a contributing factor?
Had a secret ingredient in it as well??
You put a lot of effort into setting up your apiary for last winter.
New queens will be a good investment.
The supplement isn’t a new feed strategy, it’s routine. The difference has been extreme drought, followed by 2 extremely long winters. Varroa mite bombs, high vital levels and outbreaks of nosema,
Now mange through that
Mr. Steppler, would a golfball on your feed buckets, under a cheap hotel plastic showercap solve your nozema puddles?
by eye the results look great👍
Hi Ian, thanks for your great work, it has helped me greatly with my small apiary in Princeton, BC. I have the apis biologix bio-activator and bio-control products. Do these contain the anti- virals you are using in your trials?
No, not quite the same
I am working with anti viral and anti fungal essential oils in the sugar water. They work.
What essential oils are you finding work best?
Any idea on the stress/stresses that caused the chalk brood?
My two bits. 80% of the time Chalk brood is human error, (can be miss diagnosed, can be starvation.) 10% fungi weather, 10% bad Queen gens or old Queen. I learned the hard way so I don't... tips 1. don't take nurse bees out of a small hive 2. I don't move frames on small hives, (except if absolutely needed.) 3. The Fungus is in the frames and in old pollen, not in the queens. 4. I don't shake the frames with brood in them, (use brush.) 5. The bees will clean the frames with nectar or sugar water, but this takes a little time. My bees recovered in 2 weeks. Some times they will remove all of the old pollen and put is nectar to clean it, before going back to pollen in the same cell. We can give a boost with a good pollen patty and sugar water as we wait for them clean up the mess.
The treated hives are noticeably bigger but still horrible brood patterns. Not thriving by any means
Hi Ian. Any tips regarding queen introduction to an established colony? It happend to me many times that they started emergency cells by the time of release, and of course, she was K.O. Now I have to wait 8-10 days for all the eggs to become mature larvae,destroy QC. 100% acceptance, but lose a lot of days with eggs not being produced. Thanks
Hunt and kill
Oh man... so many comments! I have to run fences in every yard, so I know the monetary pain. As for the chalkbrood, have you found that replacing the queen solves the issue? I've been battling low level chalkbrood the last few years, and replacing queens doesn't seem to make a difference. It's frustrating to see the pile of mummies but pull out big beautiful frames of brood. A queen clearly doing a dang good job of laying, bees doing a dang good job of working what she's laying, but they never seem to get a handle on it. They don't die over the winter.
I’m unfairly faulting the queen, but I’m focused on reinforcing the vigour right off the start to ensure I have good stock that will go into fall
A normal person would balk at using a beehive for a stool. 😂
And the whole in the lid isn't plugged lol.
Its thursday.
LOL
Have enjoyed you videos for years. I run 250 - 300 hives. You have more chalk brood than you have had for years. Could it be that the nutrition in your patties is not meeting the need for your bees this year. You changed your supplier. Worth a thought.
Yes definitely not meeting their requirements, nothing beats pollen but what we have going here saved my ass (personal observation) nosema put tremendous nutritional demand on the bees during a time of a lack of natural nutrition. Singles have less reserves than doubles, because of that singles suffered this year for nourishment. My Patty filled in that deficit. But the stressors still expressed itself
Hey, love your stuff, just bought some biologix myself. Maybe you mentioned this in the video, is the control group sugar syrup and apis biologix? So the only variable added is the antiviral? Or did you add two variables to the experiment hives by adding antiviral and apis bioligix?
The control is just patty and sugar syrup, no Apis Biologix
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog Although anecdotal, The difference is definitely visible in the video between the two tests. Do you think the growth difference in the video is the biologix? Have you seen the biologix produce similar results without the antiviral? I sure hope this gets you thriving after the rough year you’ve had!
This is my farmer observations but yes, absolutely. I use this product for the exact reason that I helps collaborate on its development. I’m
Just the bees, that’s all I contributed into this project. Andrew is the business around it
Thank you Ian
Anti viral Hives look stronger
Control Hives look mediocre
In my humble opinion
Thank you Ian
Yeah ok. “ I’m just a little farmer and this is not my product that I’m selling on RUclips “
Maybe start sanitising dip hivetool and gloves between hives.
Ian I am watching this on video and not anything like opening a hive in person. So this is just an educated guess. Nosema Cernae looks like the culprit to me. MAYBE a touch of European Foulbrood. I do not know if you feed antibiotics or Fumagilan in your feed. Never seen either administered in your videos and I’m a loyal fan. In Saskatchewan NC has been a huge problem for me, maybe more so than mites. Seems easily controlled in spring by “cup of soup method”. Often seen large improvements in colony after just a single treatment of the three treatment regiment. I feel I get a better bang for the buck with the cup of soup than feeding in pails. Just “farmer experiment”.
Yup, that’s what my dust is. I was too late to act though
Can you please be more explicit?What do you mean by " a cup of soup method"? Thank you!
Just an observation but can’t hurt to mention it, I’m wondering if your problem with nozsema and then chalk brood stems from not having enough ventilation in your colonies during winter shed storage?
Wonder if you’ve tried cutting a two inch strip out of your migratory cover space strips to allow air flow?
Personally I leave front entrance wide open 3/4” full width, also a 3/4” hole through the edge of telescoping cover, I also have 5/8” strip’s around inner perimeter but on rear it’s turned to the 3/4” size which props cover slightly. Also I’m in Pennsylvania so not the brutal winter you have but we get sub zero temps that last several days to weeks at a time.
Just an observation! Thanks for all you do for the beekeeping family!
Just so you know I hadn’t watched the clip about the study prior to this msg.
I’ve been watching the 4x4 stream from a few weeks ago
Yes possibly, but not a problem other winters
I did however put my entrances in too soon and I think I had seen a direct result from that, but the lingering winter is the main blame
Start making Bear Rugs!🤔😁
Try not putting colonies where bears are. Fool
Bear meat is good eating.
A third set if hives for your control, hives with only the antiviral.
Might the "Rocket fuel" have contributed to the old queen issue, by encouraging the swarming of the young queens that the hive might have used to re-queened the hive.
Queens are the same age which they all had been reared last year.
I had 🐻 trouble this year, had to put up a fence.
Alltech has a product cooled BioMos, it is “imunomodulation” that enhance the imuno system os several animals. I have no idea if it will work on bees.
All the best from Brazil!
What do you do to deal with chalkbrood? I only keep a few colonies and one of them has come down with it. Thanks
Protein patty and maybe a fresh queen
maybe the chalkbrood is the result of the cold, wet spring?
Oh ya. And the nosema infection
Bullets are cheaper than fences thou nowdays not much.. Really hope you get the chaulk brood straightened out.
Yeah. Kill the bears because you dummies feed them honey bee colonies
My farmer mind would figure that if my livestock have stomach issues , its likely what they're eating.. seems like the only thing thats changed jn the past few years is this "rocket fuel" and now they're are a bunch of issues..
No, it’s the weather.
nano silver is also an antiviral.
Do you see a correlation between dark old brood frames and chalk brood .
I found with old brood combs, sunken cappings and canibalisation often occured with some chalkbrood especialy in cool weather .i got a test done ,not afb.
My suspicions include chemical residue,also chilled brood due to old stored pollen scattering the laying pattern.
Im dealing with this thanks to plastic foundation and bee breeding from Rottnest island.
All the best anyway.
How does the plastic foundation help?
Hello sir I'm from Nepal
What is the actually cause of chalk brood and is it always a Queen issue?
If it isn't always the Queen then it has to be an external pressure on the colony. With it showing up in so many different colonies it has to have been something that was common to those colonies.
Huge visual difference in those farmer tests colonies there Ian.👍
Weather, nosema , malnutrition
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog Ty Ian.
Hence my heavy focus on feeding
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog Ty again Ian.👍
Just going into my second season so still LOADS of questions and learning going on.😁
Chalkbrood disease is caused by the fungus Ascosphaera apis. The fungus rarely kills infected colonies but can weaken it and lead to reduced honey yields and susceptibility to other bee pests and diseases.
Young infected larvae do not usually show signs of disease but will die upon being sealed in their cells as pupae. Worker bees will uncap the cells of dead larvae, making mummies clearly visible, before sometimes removing the mummified larvae and depositing them on the hive floor or at the entrance to the hive.
Chalkbrood disease is present throughout most of Australia and its incidence is generally higher when a colony is subject to temperature changes, particularly cooler weather, or other sources of stress.
whats his store for this stuff. I think I will try it out in a yard and see for myself. Im kinda a real prick when it comes to stuff so i'd be happy to DDX the stuff and see how it is.
This is just a proof of concept that Andrew threw at me. The numbers might not show the same. If not, we will keep tweaking the formula
I have to admit, I am regularly confusing your videos and Babylon Bee videos when I look at the logo!
Thought you were going to show some cases of foul brood
Are you having any issues with mated queens being replaced repeatedly within a month?
Yes, sign of nosema compromised Queen development
Do you think your new bees brought in any of these diseases?
No, this happened before the new bees were brought in
After watching the first minute of the video i was convinced the bit you didnt want to show was you wrestling a bear :/
LOL THAT WOULD GET VIEWS LOL
I found that after chalkbrood it can go to afb and efb next. Takes a few years or so. You should really send a sample from all your apiraries to the lab.
Continually, as a rule, it the reason I know what’s happening
so what did the lab find out
Samples in the freezer, run off my feet with work and had not gotten them off to th e lab
needs a sign...
dont feed the bears
Wow more fence
Are we able to purchase the rocket fuel?
Yes
Damn Winnie
Take him
Have you got new queens from somewhere else? There is a genetic predisposition for chalkbrood.
Looks like a big difference, fingers crossed it works out. Is the control no treatment at all or are they getting something like honey B healthy etc? Thank you.
The control got patty and sugar syrup but no extra additives
Usted hace prueba de genes higiénicos para selección en su crianza de reinas ? Que estrategia usa para la variabilidad genética?
Well? While I am not no expert! But if I was to call it on Bee numbers? It seams the plane, hives do not have the numbers compared to the treated hives.. but the lab numbers will tell for sure.. lol your having a problem with bears an I am having problem with raccoons trying to have a sweet tooth.. sooner or later Smith and Wesson will win the battle ashes to ashes, dust to dust break into my hives, and pay the ultimate penalty! But as to stress? I am convinced this cold spring has set mine back a full month 😤
A bucket of mouse bait works wonders on raccoons. Just crack the lid so they can smell it but no need to open it , they can do that themselves.
@@darrenbeachy7413 lol I would if it would work ☹️ I have 23 outside bait stations on the farm an the ring tails, reach in, bend the wires and steal the bait all 23 bait stations have dog chain, bolted to them, because the raccoons, steal the whole bait station if you don’t … 🤷🏻♂️
Edit an I have tried 4 major brands of block bait an they eat it like candy even the Switzerland poison
Im Going to assume you selected two colonies sitting side by side to bee of similar size/strength in starting the experiment. Though in the field there are uncontrollable variables as well as genetic ones, the..well, I mean I'm easily impressed, but that's a staggering difference. The results speak for themselves.
Looking forward to the Update from the lab!!
Ya I agree, so many variables and such a stark difference that I considered not showing this. The colonies were sorted so that each group was chosen at random but sorted so that each had a very strong, medium and small size. It just happened to be side by side as shown.
Numbers will tell the truth of what we were trying to determine
Ivermectin?
this is my guess too
No no, natural ingredients. Are focus is on naturally found nutrients that promote natural immunity
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlogthat’s pollen
Comes from out of the earth. Pretty natural
Yes, exactly. It’s why we see such improvement when the pollen flows. Applying that to a supplement feed. Some of this pollen has residues. There are also times when I don’t have pollen
Hi l had chork brood l used banana skln ln the hive peter
Me well over there x4 of the biggest pit bull dogs officer officer the dogs killed the bear 🐻 or a 12 gauge semi auto shells full of rock salt plus 4 pit bulls. As for other problem no go on it mites what a bastard of a thing to put up with life is bad now with the cost on everything. BEST OF LUCK WITH IT.
OK so you are dealing with behavior. Not really Bears. Think of those Bears around the salmon in the river. Behavior. So ~ Don't you think? ~. The very best way to deal with the Bears is to, well, (probably somebody has already said this) but, Just hang around with a big gun until the bear shows up. Kill the bear and presto! No more behavior. Suddenly you are in the Dead Bear business. Right? Could be a bunch of cubs that were born hanging around. The electric fence sure. But the Bears will always be there, waiting for the slightest mistake. Mark my words. The Bears will not go away. They are checking and waiting. Just like you. Maybe you could teach them to be their own beekeepers? Maybe that would be worth trying. Now that would be something. Bears and Honey. A legendary relationship I'll tell ya. Keep up the reports. Thank you. This story is not over. I'll tell ya.
Cory Stevens queens.
He has reached out to Cory but Cory has to get certified to pass Canadian import rules. So they are thinking next year may work out.
spinoff.nasa.gov/node/9594 silver works as an antibiotic and more.