And here I thought when the bees are chasing me around the be yard, it's because they're angry with me. Turns out they are just trying to get me to lose weight. 🤣 😂 All jokes aside, great video as always.
My bees in MN have finally had 4 days together where they are foraging big time. YEA!! I feel they are 3 weeks behind last year. Not sure if that will affect the honey crop. Most of my hives are not strong yet the first part of May. Last year they were packed in May.
I had three hives this spring, all survived winter. Lost a queen in two, one of them swarmed in early April, crazy...it was still freezing except for one warm day. Everything can look great and two weeks later it's a mayhem, chasing bees around the yard like a nutjob, haha.
My 3 years of beekeeping and Spring is here in Sweden, They have been flying very nicely since 2 days here in Timrå. I lost a bee colony because mice disturbed them this winter and ate on their frames, But the other 2 are on their way anyway. Now I also hope that it is possible to divide so there will be 8 bee hives in slightly different places near where I live in central Sweden out on the coast. Thanks Laurel and Kameron for the restful videos.
LAUREL and Kamon, I am still in my first year. Currently hoping my first grafted queens become well mated. The Hive Life Conference was a lot of fun and no doubt your content has saved my bees and set me on track years ahead of what would be typical. I really appreciate the content.
Thanks 3 boys. We are just doing our part to help the community we love. The more we help others, the stronger our bee community is. Tell all the boys I said hey!
Yep, I cut cells this year and last and while it is a ton of work to be in every 6 to 7 days and then when cells are found to go thru every frame, it worked well. Of course I added space to them after cutting cells otherwise it was all for naught, but it was worth it for those that almost got away. I even did it on some that had a few capped. I'd say it was 75% success rate. Where it failed, I finally had to split.
Wondering about pulling cell frames, putting into a 10 frame three way mating box on top of the honey supers. Using a double screen board. Coming from a colder Minnesota beekeeper's yard. Great old queen video, thank you!
Great video Kamon! It is amazing that once they choose to swarm, they definitely get after it. And like you said it’s hard to stop once they’ve gotten so far. Nice looking Hive regardless Sir. Thanks for all the great insight.
@@kamonreynolds - Thanks Sir! Doing great. Came out of winter with some of the strongest hives I’ve had in the last four years. So good. I’ve taken about 6 splits only re-queening two of the splits. Letting them grow queens in the rest to propagate those genetics. So far this year, although off to a rough start with late snow and cold is looking to be a pretty good season so far.
Ha Kamon I enjoyed the video u did a good job, with it I have made my cell builder and I am going to try grafting when it is ready. I agree with u u can not have to many bees. Have a great week hope u do something special for lourel this sunday for mothers day
I'll be raising my first queens this year. Goal is to reach 15 hives. I might buy some too, to increase the genetic variety. Only 3 of my 5 colonies survived and I'd like to avoid genetic bottlenecks.
Kamon, Great Video my friend... still working on getting my wife Toni to film for my videos... still likes to stay in the truck.... I am slowly getting her out some... lol 😂
Well, I've decided to go back to double deeps this year. I tried single brood chambers and couldn't control swarming, so after that I tried 1 deep and 1 medium and that was better, but still had problems with swarming. I'm in central AR and our springs here on average are booming very early and if you have a strong colony coming out of winter they build up so fast and brood up just about to early to start splitting so it's just a nightmare. I admit I could benefit from better genetics against swarming and I have started that this year so we will see how it goes. Really enjoy the videos Kamon!
@@cducote6257 I don't have the surplus comb to do that or I would. I will finally have a decent amount of surplus comb after this season which will no doubt help tremendously next season.
@@christophersublett1037 you don't need comb, they will draw it out. That's the whole idea. Grab another 10 frames and a box and put a drawn out frame then an empty frame and so on. Checkerboard them and the bees will draw out the comb
Kamon, excellent tips as always. I had a colony swarm and I cought them and placed them in a new deep. There was some capped queen cups in the box which was 2-10 frame deeps. As it happened 3-4 days later the bees swarmed again with a new queen? IDK, They few off after several attempts trying to shake them into a box. On a good note I managed to get 2 more swarms that just showed up one moving into a deep set up 10 min prior to there arrival, What luck. So from 2 to 6 colonies in the same week. I had to buy more equipment for future expansion.
yes ,leave at least 2 queen cells ,with the existing hive , I have good success doing that .leave at least 2 or 3 frames of brood,2frames food and pollen ,drawn cone if you have it.
It's ironic that I just pulled my queen excluders last week. I saw that the bee's were backfilling the brood boxes with nectar and getting honey bound. I've found that once I get a good majority of cells in my bottom medium super filled with nectar the queen won't cross it, so I don't have to worry about the queen getting up in the supers and laying. I also run a deep and a medium for brood boxes. I use to run double deeps. With that number of bee's in that hive I would be running another box for brood, whether a deep or medium.
Hello Kamon what a great reminder video for us to stay on our toes . A question sometimes back maybe around the end of last year there was a video about a tree that put out great amounts of pollen and nectar it so much it would be equal to a bunch of land but I do not remember the amounts . I was thinking it may have been maybe you or Bob or maybe Bruce that had this video. Do you know anything about this tree or what kind it may be or who may have put the video’s out . Just checking Thanks
If you want to split the hive and don't have extra queens, would you move the original queen to a nuc and let the hive hatch out one of those capped queen cells?
I’ve done that many times; knock out all swarm cells except one ,they then carry on as a new hive with daughter Queen, But sometimes 30% that one virgin will swarm.Just be mindful they are Swarm Queen’s.You could come back to an empty hive
Another way would be to put the frame with the queen cell into the nuc/2nd hive with brood and nurse bees, and keep the queen in the original hive. That's what I did a few weeks ago. Not checked the nuc yet but plenty of bees flying to and from it. Not sure if that would work in the situation in the video as to me they looked ready to swarm any day!
your bees seem pretty calm ... I was doing this a few days ago & they were extremely pissed off/agitated to the point I had to stop the inspection (NW MT) Found a couple queen cells between the upper/lower ... they broke open when I pulled the top deep off
1st year on undrawn foundation honey supers, do you still want to run 9 frames or start with10? I watch to many videos, lol. I remember watching someone saying that for them, the bees would draw wonky comb with the extra space on undrawn foundation at first? Once you have drawn comb, would you want to put your more damaged combs close to the middle so they will repair them quicker? Smart man, Happy Family, Happy Bees, Happy Keeper. Ty for sharing, Blessed Days...
Hey DC. Start with 10 on the foundations. Just check back in a couple weeks and if they have drawn 8-9 of them space them out to 9. Putting combs that have more honey and comb to the edge and those with less to the center will get them drawn much quicker
Thank you for the demonstration. My mentors who were pollinators would be cringing when you cut out all the cells. But everyone has their way to do things. I can’t do liquid honey anymore and am going to comb honey. However I’m trying something different. I use to deeps to overwinter my colonies and these get packed with bees. I want this for comb. My hives have swarm cells and I do something different. I’m hoping how I manage my hives in past years works this year for comb honey. When there are swarm cells I take two frames with cells and put them in nucs. Shake a few frames in and they’re set. I find the queen and put her in a box with just brood and no cells. I shake all the bees from the other box in with her. All the nurse bees that cause congestion are with her. I place the bottom box with the remaining frames of brood and two queen cells on the bottom board. Next is a medium super. Over this I place a queen excluder and a comb honey box. ( it used to be three honey supers). The double screen board on top and now the box holding the queen. After three weeks the new queen is laying. I check the comb honey box to see it’s progress and either remove it as a crop or add a second box on top for more production. I remove the old queen and a couple frames for a nuc box and leave the rest on top for a powerful producing colony. The hard part is checking the comb honey on a regular basis because I want that white wax. If it’s left inside for too long the bees walk on the cappings and stain it a light brown. It’s just not as nice looking for selling. At the end of the producing season my top deep is dropped down and I’m back to my two deep set up. Oh one thing. After removing the old queen go back after three days and cut out any queen cells. Do that again in five days. Don’t miss one cell. Cut them out even if you think it’s a drone but you’re not sure. If you don’t cut them you’ll end up with them in a tree. It looks complicated but it really isn’t. Maybe kaymon would try it and show us with either honey production or comb honey production. Producing comb honey is more work but it’s sure worth it.
464 person to like the video, do I win an apimaye hive lol. Done my first split a week ago and when I checked yesterday the original queen was in the split luckily, I lost track of her when when I grabbed my queen cage. The original hive have drawn and capped another queen cell so time will tell. The queen in the split is laying up a storm. Thank goodness for stupid successful mistakes. Loving all your video’s Kamon and thanks.
They were horasing her right there.. 5-6 bees walking all over her when she was trying to lay. Usually she walks around like a bulldozer.. not that one. It probably started some days ago.. that's why the brood pattern got worse. It's difficult to explain to people that she's old and nothing special.. when they think that amount of bees is a strong hive. A great teaching video as always.
Hi, efter watching this Im wondering why you dont add a second box for the queen to lay eggs in? Swarming is a sign of lack of space, isnt it? Thanks, Johannes, Sweden
Even with unlimited space bees will many times still try to swarm. This is ingrained into them for reproduction. Space is a big factor but there are other things that can trigger swarming
I purchased 3 nucs a week ago and when I went out yesterday to replace their feed and add another box and 2 of them were already backlaying(ignoring empty frames i placed during installing the nuc) and had swarm cells produced. None of the swarm queens are capped yet. Could I split them to prevent the swarm and utilize the new queens or is it better just destroy the swarm cells and give them more space? Normally this happens too much later in the season and I have plenty of nurse bees to do splits but I am second guessing because each hive only has 2-3 frames of brood at the moment and I am worried a split would weaken them too much.
So I did it backwards I left the queen as I couldn't find her. I took the queen cells frame and resource frames for a nuc. Now I have a queen-less hive and a nuc that the new queen hasn't come back yet. :(
Kamon, I just checked my 4th 5 frame nuc split that I made coming out of winter. When I did the splits I added two queens that were given to me and 2 that I purchased. 3 of those splits had one emergency queen cell in each one and the 4th had 2 EQC. What do you think would cause this to happen?
You mentioned she is getting old, could the queen cell been a supersedure cell? The hive may have been doing what you will do on their own. Good vid and thank you for the content.
K&L, great video with great timing. What do you think your average is for the amount of honey from a medium super with 9 frames spaced the way you do it? I realize they can be different amounts from different supers. Thanks so much for this video! This is my 6th spring keeping bees and I’m still learning and get ideas when watching your videos.
Karmon, during a nectar flow, If I made a split from a brood box and removed say 3 frames of bees and i wanted to replace with 3 frames of foundation, should the foundation be placed in the center of the brood chamber or on the outside.
Hey Kamon, I've not seen too many keepers use 9 spacing in the brood chamber. Is there a reason you are doing that? Thanks! Can we have too many bees? Well sadly my HOA says yes.
9 frames in a 10 frame works well and is a common practice but 10 frames likely is better and I am trying to switch back to it when I can. I like giving that queen an extra frame to lay on
One of my hives swarmed last week. I am still inspecting to see if I can find any eggs or queen cells but so far, I haven't .I'm also looking for virgin queen. how long do I wait before I panic?
Thanks Kamon and Laurel. I am just beginning my 2nd year. Had 1 hive come thru Winter. I split it and it still swarmed. I must have missed a queen cell. My split is good. Queen in there laying. I am concerned that my 1st hive is queenless. Did an inspection yesterday and didn't see any larvae. There are 2 supercedure cells in there so I am hoping a queen emerges and mates. Based on timing, I should see larvae by next Friday. If not, I will be looking for a new queen. there are still plenty of bees so I don't think I need a nuc. Since I am new i don't have all the resources you have.
If you mean queen cells that haven't emerged yet it'll be more than a week before you see larvae. If you mean the new queen that hadn't currently returned to the hive at the time of your post, did she return? How's your beekeeping going now?
Hey Kamon awesome video as always. I have a question maybe u or someone might know. I been doing this for 5 years now and I been stung countless times but a week ago one got into my veil and stung my jaw area near ear. I put together the hive and went in to remove stinger maybe 3 minutes. We’ll I got a reaction I never ever had. I had to call 911. First I got itchy like all heck all over especially my feet then broke out in big hives all over. Soon I started feeling trouble breathing and the. My whole left side face swelling up where I got stung. My thought is I allowed the venom sack to completely pump everything into me by waiting to long to remove stinger. I did see the sack was empty and not contracting when I pulled stinger. Could that have been it is it possible or did I develop anaphylactic allergy? I hate to find out by getting stung again LOL!!! Any thoughts or experience from waiting to remove stinger asap. Thank you
Yikes that is a bit scary. I don't know much about bee sting reactions. I have always had very mild experiences with bee venom. Be careful and I hope it never happens again Zack.
Zack, best to scrape the Sting off asap, use your fingernail, or maybe an ex ATM card in your top pocket. Scrape it off from the side, like clearing Ice, this prevents (stops more) venom entering the bloodstream. Maybe get a better Bee Veil in the meantime... And maybe speak or see your MD about getting an Adrenaline Pen (in the UK they are called Epi-Pens, not sure if same Stateside. Also next time you get a Sting to a Limb, elevate it above your Heart. Stops the venom from going into your circulation. (Or make a temporary Hook n Loop Tourniquet, to also slow it down.) Alas both these won't help a Sting on the Face. 🙄 But it would be a real shame to stop beekeeping because of anaphylaxis ! Worked in Health, old retired Beeks would go to Bee Pals, for a Slap n Sting Session. 🤭 As a few Stings, kept their lifetime immunity going ! (If you get stung say after 50yrs or so, then don't... Bam, a Sting in the garden can be a game changer. Not good. So Beeks, be Sting proactive*, in Hobby or Commercial Beekeeping. Know your First Aid, have an individual know where you are, and get medical care if in doubt. Better to be safe (feel dumb) in embarrestment, at the E.R or M.D office, than snuffing it. Snuffing it only applicable to your Smoker ! Not you. 🤭 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Happy Beekeeping 2022. 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Advise here is only a personal comment. Always access or see a Health Professional in your region. Be safe and enjoy your Bees ! * You can take an over the counter Pharmacy "Hayfever" Antihistamine Medication. This will work best about 4hrs before Bee 'exposure'. I reacted horribly for my first few months on starting Beekeeping. Hands Swollen up etc....Just painful not life threatening or anything. Now it's just an 'ouch' girls, Don't do that ! .... moment. 🐝 Some say Stings help their Pain, and access Bee Sting Therapy, popular in some European Countries. 🤔
I had a similar reaction 3 weeks ago, had a bee sting straight into a vein on my finger - through my glove! I removed the sting using hive tool then carried on what I was doing. Gradually I started feeling cr*p, so I closed up the hive and went inside. My scalp started "creeping", my palms started itching and next thing I knew I was covered in hives from the neck down. I also started feeling nauseous, like I was going to pass out and I couldn't stand up. I do have a couple ofJext pens (like Epi-pen), but I'd been told only to use them if I couldn't breathe, so I didn't. My mum was going to the docs so I hitched a ride with her. The docs sent me to A&E (ER), where they did an ECG and blood tests. All was fine and the hives subsided very soon after I'd taken an antihistamine (I did make myself a cup of nettle tea before hitching the ride with mum but didn't get time to drink it! Nettles are full of natural antihistamines). A few days later I was working on the land about 20 yards from the hives with lots of flying bees. I got stung in the middle of my back, no reaction whatsoever. When I inspected the hives last week, I got stung on the back of my hand, again had no reaction. I think maybe the full blown reaction was because it went straight into a vein (I can still see where the sting was, there was a browny-black scab on it for a while!). The reason I have the Jext pens is I was reacting more and more to bee stings, so they were for 'just in case' the worst happened. When I had the reaction described above, like you it was the worst I'd ever experienced and I really thought I might have to give up beekeeping. Thankfully the stings I've had since, have shown that I'm okay to carry on! I hope the same has been the case for you!
The 2nd cell found was referred tovasca swarm cell. I thought those were considered to be supercedure cells. In your opinion is there a difference? Do we need to treat a hive differently based on whether they are swarm vs supercede cell?
I'm a beginner. I have only one box just for a starter for now. I bought those wax frames but for some reason bees not working on frames instead, they're on the walls. What am l doing wrong?
You might be better off creating a QR code for each hive which can link you to a database page of the colony to record all your information about your colonies
That part of beekeeping is hard to control. Day 1: I check my hive I see eggs but can't find the queen and 8 queen cells bottom of the frames Day 7: No eggs in the hive can't find the queen or any other queen in the hive. What happend ?
The queen lays the egg. It's how the workers look after that cell that determines whether it becomes a queen or not (they feed it a lot of royal jelly, for instance).
hello Kamon. i was taught that the queen only gets mated those few times when she first hatches and when she runs out of sperm she is done ? but, ive heard a few times about queen bees going out to be mated again after they run out of sperm, so whats your thinking on this ?.
You can. I just don't need the queens since I graft. Also, since I graft I want to select only from our best and this queen isn't one I want daughters from. However, there was a time I would have saved the cells gladly :-)
When mine swarmed today I caught them and let them walk back in the box they came out of. Hopefully they will stay and make honey. Thanks for the information 👍 ❤️🐝
Need help the person I was going to get bees from fell through at the last minute now I can't find any please help would like 4 necessary please help from n.y
Very briefly, he made 2 colonies from 1 by removing a couple of frames of brood and the old queen and placing them into a nuc box with some frames of stores (honey, nectar and pollen). He removed/destroyed all the queen cells on the frames in the old hive and later added a new, mated queen (he could have left one of the queen cells but he wanted the hive to produce more honey so he needed a laying queen asap). (The nuc was taken to a different location where, if I understood him correctly, he added some nurse bees.) Hope this helps!
Too much work. Could try taking the queen out, shake her and all other bees off into a nice onto an unused drawn out frame and allow the swarm cells to hatch.
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And here I thought when the bees are chasing me around the be yard, it's because they're angry with me. Turns out they are just trying to get me to lose weight. 🤣 😂 All jokes aside, great video as always.
Haha that is so funny!
Always a great feeling when you find the Queen after you see swarm cells.
Yes!
Great Solid information as usual. Thanks and happy Beekeeping.
It is so crazy how you are almost in the flow and here in Minnesota it finally just started to get warm out. Like always thanks
Ten four! We still have some snowbanks on here and there in northern maine..
Oh wow!
Wowza!!
My bees in MN have finally had 4 days together where they are foraging big time. YEA!!
I feel they are 3 weeks behind last year. Not sure if that will affect the honey crop. Most of my hives are not strong yet the first part of May. Last year they were packed in May.
@@russellkoopman3004 our season is a couple of weeks behind too so maybe the bloom will still match the bees!
I had three hives this spring, all survived winter. Lost a queen in two, one of them swarmed in early April, crazy...it was still freezing except for one warm day. Everything can look great and two weeks later it's a mayhem, chasing bees around the yard like a nutjob, haha.
My 3 years of beekeeping and Spring is here in Sweden, They have been flying very nicely since 2 days here in Timrå. I lost a bee colony because mice disturbed them this winter and ate on their frames, But the other 2 are on their way anyway. Now I also hope that it is possible to divide so there will be 8 bee hives in slightly different places near where I live in central Sweden out on the coast. Thanks Laurel and Kameron for the restful videos.
LAUREL and Kamon, I am still in my first year. Currently hoping my first grafted queens become well mated. The Hive Life Conference was a lot of fun and no doubt your content has saved my bees and set me on track years ahead of what would be typical. I really appreciate the content.
Thanks 3 boys. We are just doing our part to help the community we love. The more we help others, the stronger our bee community is. Tell all the boys I said hey!
Yep, I cut cells this year and last and while it is a ton of work to be in every 6 to 7 days and then when cells are found to go thru every frame, it worked well. Of course I added space to them after cutting cells otherwise it was all for naught, but it was worth it for those that almost got away. I even did it on some that had a few capped. I'd say it was 75% success rate. Where it failed, I finally had to split.
Wondering about pulling cell frames, putting into a 10 frame three way mating box on top of the honey supers. Using a double screen board.
Coming from a colder Minnesota beekeeper's yard. Great old queen video, thank you!
Great video Kamon! It is amazing that once they choose to swarm, they definitely get after it. And like you said it’s hard to stop once they’ve gotten so far. Nice looking Hive regardless Sir. Thanks for all the great insight.
Thanks Larry! Hope you are doing very well!
@@kamonreynolds - Thanks Sir! Doing great. Came out of winter with some of the strongest hives I’ve had in the last four years. So good. I’ve taken about 6 splits only re-queening two of the splits. Letting them grow queens in the rest to propagate those genetics. So far this year, although off to a rough start with late snow and cold is looking to be a pretty good season so far.
I agree with Laurel - yes you can have to many bees especially when your yard can't support them lol - ask me how I know :) ha ha ha
Ha Kamon I enjoyed the video u did a good job, with it I have made my cell builder and I am going to try grafting when it is ready. I agree with u u can not have to many bees. Have a great week hope u do something special for lourel this sunday for mothers day
This is so appropriate for my present situation. Thanks for your help as always
How do you add a nucleus colony to a 10 frame box without the other bees killing her? Thanks for the videos their a great way to learn
I'll be raising my first queens this year. Goal is to reach 15 hives. I might buy some too, to increase the genetic variety. Only 3 of my 5 colonies survived and I'd like to avoid genetic bottlenecks.
Kamon,
Great Video my friend... still working on getting my wife Toni to film for my videos... still likes to stay in the truck.... I am slowly getting her out some... lol 😂
Great information for this novice apiarist! I learn something everytime I watch one of your videos. Thank you and I hope you have a great day!
EE 🐝
Only 2 queen cells, one capped with the queen still in the colony - this could have been supersedure anyway...
Still, better safe than sorry!
David, that is what i thought also
Well, I've decided to go back to double deeps this year. I tried single brood chambers and couldn't control swarming, so after that I tried 1 deep and 1 medium and that was better, but still had problems with swarming. I'm in central AR and our springs here on average are booming very early and if you have a strong colony coming out of winter they build up so fast and brood up just about to early to start splitting so it's just a nightmare. I admit I could benefit from better genetics against swarming and I have started that this year so we will see how it goes. Really enjoy the videos Kamon!
Best of luck Christopher!
If it's too early dont split them. Throw another box on so they have room to grow to keep them from swarming.
@@cducote6257 I don't have the surplus comb to do that or I would. I will finally have a decent amount of surplus comb after this season which will no doubt help tremendously next season.
@@christophersublett1037 you don't need comb, they will draw it out. That's the whole idea. Grab another 10 frames and a box and put a drawn out frame then an empty frame and so on. Checkerboard them and the bees will draw out the comb
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Very helpful!!!
Kamon, excellent tips as always. I had a colony swarm and I cought them and placed them in a new deep. There was some capped queen cups in the box which was 2-10 frame deeps. As it happened 3-4 days later the bees swarmed again with a new queen? IDK, They few off after several attempts trying to shake them into a box. On a good note I managed to get 2 more swarms that just showed up one moving into a deep set up 10 min prior to there arrival, What luck. So from 2 to 6 colonies in the same week. I had to buy more equipment for future expansion.
Question, since you did a split with the queen and had queen cells, could you leave a queen cell with the old hive for a new queen with that hive?
yes ,leave at least 2 queen cells ,with the existing hive , I have good success doing that .leave at least 2 or 3 frames of brood,2frames food and pollen ,drawn cone if you have it.
I have used them as well but I only leave 1 with great success as well Kamon did not leave any because he had queens to put in there. That he raised.
Thanks Kamon I really appreciate you guys.
It's ironic that I just pulled my queen excluders last week. I saw that the bee's were backfilling the brood boxes with nectar and getting honey bound. I've found that once I get a good majority of cells in my bottom medium super filled with nectar the queen won't cross it, so I don't have to worry about the queen getting up in the supers and laying. I also run a deep and a medium for brood boxes. I use to run double deeps. With that number of bee's in that hive I would be running another box for brood, whether a deep or medium.
Found a hive yesterday, 12 capped cells on the top bar. Couldnt see a way to post a picture. Crazy.
Hello Kamon what a great reminder video for us to stay on our toes . A question sometimes back maybe around the end of last year there was a video about a tree that put out great amounts of pollen and nectar it so much it would be equal to a bunch of land but I do not remember the amounts . I was thinking it may have been maybe you or Bob or maybe Bruce that had this video. Do you know anything about this tree or what kind it may be or who may have put the video’s out . Just checking Thanks
Maybe the Linden Tree. Mike Conner has a YT on trees and bees which is quite good.
Had 2 this last week with cells. Made some splits and life is good.
If you want to split the hive and don't have extra queens, would you move the original queen to a nuc and let the hive hatch out one of those capped queen cells?
I’ve done that many times; knock out all swarm cells except one ,they then carry on as a new hive with daughter Queen, But sometimes 30% that one virgin will swarm.Just be mindful they are Swarm Queen’s.You could come back to an empty hive
Another way would be to put the frame with the queen cell into the nuc/2nd hive with brood and nurse bees, and keep the queen in the original hive. That's what I did a few weeks ago. Not checked the nuc yet but plenty of bees flying to and from it. Not sure if that would work in the situation in the video as to me they looked ready to swarm any day!
Maybe they were just in the process of supercedure?
Could be Glenn. Either way I will place my own queen in there shortly! Happy Beekeeping
Great advice as usual. Working on Resource Hives this year - "maybe" queens next year... maybe.
Those 2 cells were supercedercells, no swarmceĺls. Greet video's. Greetings the Dutch Beevlogger (NBV BIJENBLOG)
your bees seem pretty calm ... I was doing this a few days ago & they were extremely pissed off/agitated to the point I had to stop the inspection (NW MT) Found a couple queen cells between the upper/lower ... they broke open when I pulled the top deep off
1st year on undrawn foundation honey supers, do you still want to run 9 frames or start with10? I watch to many videos, lol. I remember watching someone saying that for them, the bees would draw wonky comb with the extra space on undrawn foundation at first? Once you have drawn comb, would you want to put your more damaged combs close to the middle so they will repair them quicker? Smart man, Happy Family, Happy Bees, Happy Keeper. Ty for sharing, Blessed Days...
Hey DC. Start with 10 on the foundations. Just check back in a couple weeks and if they have drawn 8-9 of them space them out to 9. Putting combs that have more honey and comb to the edge and those with less to the center will get them drawn much quicker
Enjoyed the video. Shaping up to a be good honey season. Take care.
I saw this video about 2wks too late. I let my best hive swarm thinking they would leave a good hive but I was wrong! A 2 deep hive all left!
Thank you for the demonstration. My mentors who were pollinators would be cringing when you cut out all the cells. But everyone has their way to do things.
I can’t do liquid honey anymore and am going to comb honey. However I’m trying something different.
I use to deeps to overwinter my colonies and these get packed with bees. I want this for comb. My hives have swarm cells and I do something different. I’m hoping how I manage my hives in past years works this year for comb honey.
When there are swarm cells I take two frames with cells and put them in nucs. Shake a few frames in and they’re set.
I find the queen and put her in a box with just brood and no cells. I shake all the bees from the other box in with her. All the nurse bees that cause congestion are with her. I place the bottom box with the remaining frames of brood and two queen cells on the bottom board. Next is a medium super. Over this I place a queen excluder and a comb honey box. ( it used to be three honey supers).
The double screen board on top and now the box holding the queen. After three weeks the new queen is laying. I check the comb honey box to see it’s progress and either remove it as a crop or add a second box on top for more production. I remove the old queen and a couple frames for a nuc box and leave the rest on top for a powerful producing colony.
The hard part is checking the comb honey on a regular basis because I want that white wax. If it’s left inside for too long the bees walk on the cappings and stain it a light brown. It’s just not as nice looking for selling.
At the end of the producing season my top deep is dropped down and I’m back to my two deep set up.
Oh one thing. After removing the old queen go back after three days and cut out any queen cells. Do that again in five days. Don’t miss one cell. Cut them out even if you think it’s a drone but you’re not sure. If you don’t cut them you’ll end up with them in a tree.
It looks complicated but it really isn’t.
Maybe kaymon would try it and show us with either honey production or comb honey production.
Producing comb honey is more work but it’s sure worth it.
I missed something. When I remove the old queen and place her in a nuc I remove the double screen board
Can you take the capped queen cell and put it in another brood box with brood to start a hive?
Absolutely!
Why run 9 frames in the brood box? Less places for the queen to lay eggs less room to store winter resources
I am surprised you let the old queen live.
Since you already have queens available, I would have thought you would have given her the tool test.
She died when we brought a new queen back
Hy Kamon, have a queen just like that, slowing down. what happened to yours did she make the winter alright.
What would happen if you put a queen xcluder under the brood chamber and above? Would it make the queen stay out and fight it out with other queens?
464 person to like the video, do I win an apimaye hive lol. Done my first split a week ago and when I checked yesterday the original queen was in the split luckily, I lost track of her when when I grabbed my queen cage. The original hive have drawn and capped another queen cell so time will tell. The queen in the split is laying up a storm. Thank goodness for stupid successful mistakes. Loving all your video’s Kamon and thanks.
They were horasing her right there.. 5-6 bees walking all over her when she was trying to lay. Usually she walks around like a bulldozer.. not that one. It probably started some days ago.. that's why the brood pattern got worse. It's difficult to explain to people that she's old and nothing special.. when they think that amount of bees is a strong hive. A great teaching video as always.
Could they have been getting her ready to swarm? I thought that the bees stop a queen laying and feed her less so she loses weight prior to swarming
Hi, efter watching this Im wondering why you dont add a second box for the queen to lay eggs in? Swarming is a sign of lack of space, isnt it? Thanks, Johannes, Sweden
Even with unlimited space bees will many times still try to swarm. This is ingrained into them for reproduction. Space is a big factor but there are other things that can trigger swarming
I like this video and I still don't understand Queens. What is the life story of queens? How do they go and get mated and come back to the hive?
I purchased 3 nucs a week ago and when I went out yesterday to replace their feed and add another box and 2 of them were already backlaying(ignoring empty frames i placed during installing the nuc) and had swarm cells produced. None of the swarm queens are capped yet. Could I split them to prevent the swarm and utilize the new queens or is it better just destroy the swarm cells and give them more space? Normally this happens too much later in the season and I have plenty of nurse bees to do splits but I am second guessing because each hive only has 2-3 frames of brood at the moment and I am worried a split would weaken them too much.
So I did it backwards I left the queen as I couldn't find her. I took the queen cells frame and resource frames for a nuc. Now I have a queen-less hive and a nuc that the new queen hasn't come back yet. :(
I always thought that if the queen cells were capped, that the existing queen had already swarmed. I guess that's not the case.
It might only just have been capped, so she may well have left later that day or the next if Kamon hadn't done the split
Kamon, I just checked my 4th 5 frame nuc split that I made coming out of winter. When I did the splits I added two queens that were given to me and 2 that I purchased. 3 of those splits had one emergency queen cell in each one and the 4th had 2 EQC. What do you think would cause this to happen?
You mentioned she is getting old, could the queen cell been a supersedure cell? The hive may have been doing what you will do on their own. Good vid and thank you for the content.
K&L, great video with great timing. What do you think your average is for the amount of honey from a medium super with 9 frames spaced the way you do it? I realize they can be different amounts from different supers. Thanks so much for this video! This is my 6th spring keeping bees and I’m still learning and get ideas when watching your videos.
Karmon, during a nectar flow, If I made a split from a brood box and removed say 3 frames of bees and i wanted to replace with 3 frames of foundation, should the foundation be placed in the center of the brood chamber or on the outside.
Hey Kamon, I've not seen too many keepers use 9 spacing in the brood chamber. Is there a reason you are doing that? Thanks! Can we have too many bees? Well sadly my HOA says yes.
9 frames in a 10 frame works well and is a common practice but 10 frames likely is better and I am trying to switch back to it when I can. I like giving that queen an extra frame to lay on
One of my hives swarmed last week. I am still inspecting to see if I can find any eggs or queen cells but so far, I haven't .I'm also looking for virgin queen. how long do I wait before I panic?
Thanks Kamon and Laurel. I am just beginning my 2nd year. Had 1 hive come thru Winter. I split it and it still swarmed. I must have missed a queen cell. My split is good. Queen in there laying. I am concerned that my 1st hive is queenless. Did an inspection yesterday and didn't see any larvae. There are 2 supercedure cells in there so I am hoping a queen emerges and mates. Based on timing, I should see larvae by next Friday. If not, I will be looking for a new queen. there are still plenty of bees so I don't think I need a nuc. Since I am new i don't have all the resources you have.
If you mean queen cells that haven't emerged yet it'll be more than a week before you see larvae. If you mean the new queen that hadn't currently returned to the hive at the time of your post, did she return? How's your beekeeping going now?
Hi from the Caribbean Kamon, love your videos, who makes the jacket that you are wearing in this vid?
This suit is an Ultra breeze. They are the best vented jacket I have found.
I smushed a queen cell in the middle of the frame today and it was full of white goo I’m guessing royal jelly. What will happen now?
Kamon “may the flow be with you” young bee keeper. Star Wars pun…
Huh, I always thought that once they cap swarm cells, they leave, so I'd want to find the queen before smashing all my swarm cells......
How soon did you add the New Queen into this hive?
Hey Kamon awesome video as always. I have a question maybe u or someone might know. I been doing this for 5 years now and I been stung countless times but a week ago one got into my veil and stung my jaw area near ear. I put together the hive and went in to remove stinger maybe 3 minutes. We’ll I got a reaction I never ever had. I had to call 911. First I got itchy like all heck all over especially my feet then broke out in big hives all over. Soon I started feeling trouble breathing and the. My whole left side face swelling up where I got stung. My thought is I allowed the venom sack to completely pump everything into me by waiting to long to remove stinger. I did see the sack was empty and not contracting when I pulled stinger. Could that have been it is it possible or did I develop anaphylactic allergy? I hate to find out by getting stung again LOL!!! Any thoughts or experience from waiting to remove stinger asap. Thank you
Yikes that is a bit scary. I don't know much about bee sting reactions. I have always had very mild experiences with bee venom. Be careful and I hope it never happens again Zack.
Zack, best to scrape the Sting off asap, use your fingernail, or maybe an ex ATM card in your top pocket. Scrape it off from the side, like clearing Ice, this prevents (stops more) venom entering the bloodstream. Maybe get a better Bee Veil in the meantime... And maybe speak or see your MD about getting an Adrenaline Pen (in the UK they are called Epi-Pens, not sure if same Stateside. Also next time you get a Sting to a Limb, elevate it above your Heart. Stops the venom from going into your circulation. (Or make a temporary Hook n Loop Tourniquet, to also slow it down.) Alas both these won't help a Sting on the Face. 🙄
But it would be a real shame to stop beekeeping because of anaphylaxis !
Worked in Health, old retired Beeks would go to Bee Pals, for a Slap n Sting Session. 🤭 As a few Stings, kept their lifetime immunity going ! (If you get stung say after 50yrs or so, then don't... Bam, a Sting in the garden can be a game changer. Not good.
So Beeks, be Sting proactive*, in Hobby or Commercial Beekeeping. Know your First Aid, have an individual know where you are, and get medical care if in doubt. Better to be safe (feel dumb) in embarrestment, at the E.R or M.D office, than snuffing it.
Snuffing it only applicable to your Smoker ! Not you. 🤭
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Happy Beekeeping 2022.
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Advise here is only a personal comment. Always access or see a Health Professional in your region.
Be safe and enjoy your Bees !
* You can take an over the counter Pharmacy "Hayfever" Antihistamine Medication. This will work best about 4hrs before Bee 'exposure'.
I reacted horribly for my first few months on starting Beekeeping. Hands Swollen up etc....Just painful not life threatening or anything. Now it's just an 'ouch' girls, Don't do that ! .... moment. 🐝
Some say Stings help their Pain, and access Bee Sting Therapy, popular in some European Countries. 🤔
You been at it Five years and only now had a bad reaction, This is NOT GOOD . Get an Epi - Pen or Quit this could Kill you.
I had a similar reaction 3 weeks ago, had a bee sting straight into a vein on my finger - through my glove! I removed the sting using hive tool then carried on what I was doing. Gradually I started feeling cr*p, so I closed up the hive and went inside. My scalp started "creeping", my palms started itching and next thing I knew I was covered in hives from the neck down. I also started feeling nauseous, like I was going to pass out and I couldn't stand up. I do have a couple ofJext pens (like Epi-pen), but I'd been told only to use them if I couldn't breathe, so I didn't. My mum was going to the docs so I hitched a ride with her. The docs sent me to A&E (ER), where they did an ECG and blood tests. All was fine and the hives subsided very soon after I'd taken an antihistamine (I did make myself a cup of nettle tea before hitching the ride with mum but didn't get time to drink it! Nettles are full of natural antihistamines).
A few days later I was working on the land about 20 yards from the hives with lots of flying bees. I got stung in the middle of my back, no reaction whatsoever. When I inspected the hives last week, I got stung on the back of my hand, again had no reaction. I think maybe the full blown reaction was because it went straight into a vein (I can still see where the sting was, there was a browny-black scab on it for a while!).
The reason I have the Jext pens is I was reacting more and more to bee stings, so they were for 'just in case' the worst happened. When I had the reaction described above, like you it was the worst I'd ever experienced and I really thought I might have to give up beekeeping. Thankfully the stings I've had since, have shown that I'm okay to carry on! I hope the same has been the case for you!
I just experienced this same issue a few days ago. Great video sir. #superflowison
The 2nd cell found was referred tovasca swarm cell. I thought those were considered to be supercedure cells.
In your opinion is there a difference? Do we need to treat a hive differently based on whether they are swarm vs supercede cell?
I'm a beginner. I have only one box just for a starter for now. I bought those wax frames but for some reason bees not working on frames instead, they're on the walls. What am l doing wrong?
But wouldn't your laying pattern be a bit off if the queen has been lacking space and the workers have been hindering her??
If I missed it I'm sorry but why did you set that box up for 9 frame spacing? I thought that was for supers? Thanks
What kind of queens do you used
How do YOU handle wax moths with your frames in storage?
You might be better off creating a QR code for each hive which can link you to a database page of the colony to record all your information about your colonies
Please try Vino bee barn
old queens are wiser because wisdom comes with age
why do you wait 5 days before adding a nuc? and can you just plug the nuc in or do you do paper combine
That part of beekeeping is hard to control.
Day 1: I check my hive I see eggs but can't find the queen and 8 queen cells bottom of the frames
Day 7: No eggs in the hive can't find the queen or any other queen in the hive.
What happend ?
Does the Queen lay the egg in the queen sell or do the workers put it in.??
The queen lays the egg. It's how the workers look after that cell that determines whether it becomes a queen or not (they feed it a lot of royal jelly, for instance).
Your name is Cayman if you have closed caption turned on, LOL
I let mine get too strong! they left and took the hive box with them.
What do you do if you have numerous cells
Why space the brood chamber to 9?
hello Kamon.
i was taught that the queen only gets mated those few times when she first hatches and when she runs out of sperm she is done ? but,
ive heard a few times about queen bees going out to be mated again after they run out of sperm, so whats your thinking on this ?.
Unlikely to say the least.
I was wondering why u didn’t cut the queen cells out and put them in a incubator bank the for later? Or can u do that?
You can. I just don't need the queens since I graft. Also, since I graft I want to select only from our best and this queen isn't one I want daughters from. However, there was a time I would have saved the cells gladly :-)
Ok well I’m trying for the first time this season. Any good helpful hints ? I have a graft set I bought the season also. Hadn’t had time to use it yet
Can you have too many bees😂😂
When mine swarmed today I caught them and let them walk back in the box they came out of. Hopefully they will stay and make honey. Thanks for the information 👍 ❤️🐝
If you returned the swarm to the original box how did deal with the extra queen?
@@romoshka1 no queen in the box just cells and i tore them out
Been watching your videos a few years I'm looking for Caucasian queens or carniolan do you have any to sell Thanks for all your videos
Can you have too many bees? No! 😅😅
Need help the person I was going to get bees from fell through at the last minute now I can't find any please help would like 4 necessary please help from n.y
Can someone explain exactly what he did. I had a hard time following.
Very briefly, he made 2 colonies from 1 by removing a couple of frames of brood and the old queen and placing them into a nuc box with some frames of stores (honey, nectar and pollen). He removed/destroyed all the queen cells on the frames in the old hive and later added a new, mated queen (he could have left one of the queen cells but he wanted the hive to produce more honey so he needed a laying queen asap). (The nuc was taken to a different location where, if I understood him correctly, he added some nurse bees.) Hope this helps!
Too much work. Could try taking the queen out, shake her and all other bees off into a nice onto an unused drawn out frame and allow the swarm cells to hatch.
Why do you not let them make there own queen?
Hahahah must be hard to go trough every frame every couple days if you dont know how to stop them to swarm
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