So if my calculations are right, the cars systems are taking approximately 50w of power continuously in a dormant state. Would be interesting to speculate what part of the car is drawing this level of power? An alarm systems current draw is normally around 0.5amps (6w) so what part of the car is working hard??
@@colinhare4722 I have a feeling there are dozens of modules and you will not find anything in particular with a thermal imaging camera. Also those located deep inside the dashboard, console, etc will not be detectable. If you have one, go ahead and see. Let me know what you find.
@@MTNRanger I have a thermal camera. My car is on SW 2.1 and has high vampire loss (~4%/day). Relays ERY07, ERY06, ERY05, ERY09, ERY08 in the under-hood fuse box seem warm. Maybe others too.
@@rogerche.790 Do you mean a charging station (EVSE)? Some charging stations when they reach the set max charge do not start charging again u less you unplug and plug back in. So not useful if the car is left for a very long time.
I have a Fisker L1 Charging cable as well as Lectron L1 15amp charger identical to the one you have. So far, I’ve been charging my car at various charge stations, such as charge point. For the first time ever, I tried to charge my car at my building. I recently moved to a brand new apartment building. Every time, I plug in either of the chargers it start charging for 10-15min before it cut/pop the circuit/breaker on the wall. My neighbor has VW iD4 and doesn’t have any issues charging. I tried different outlets in the building and have the same issue. I tried to lower the charging in the car from 32 to 16 and 8, but it still interrupt the circuit. I tried “Sleep cycle” and “reset” option on the car but didn’t help. I have an Ocean Ultra and running 2.0 software. What do you think the issue? How can I resolve this issue and get my car charged without interrupting the circuit? Many thanks
@@user-vx3jv6cc2g you have to make sure the circuit does not have anything else running on it. It does sound like an issue with the circuit and not the car. Can you try the VW’s charger to see if it happens? Does the VW charge at the same outlet as you?
I tried the VW charger and used the same outlet my neighbor use to charge her iD4. It cut the circuit while connected to my car and once switched to her car it works just fine. I tried three other outlets in the building with her charger and my charger in all the cases it cut the circuit. I took my car to nearby ChargePoint this morning and was able to charge my car for almost an hour with no issue. I’m running out of charge and I’m planning to the ChargePoint tomorrow and leave my car for a day to charge. Do you think the issue could be my car? Do you think if I lower the amp in my car from 32 to 16 or 8 make any change? Although once I tried lower amp on the car and yet the disconnected circuit.
@ If you are charging at the ChargePoint without issue, it's most likely the building. Something could be triggering the issue such as grounding or voltage. This is the first time I have heard of this type of problem. Possibly the VW is less sensitive to the issue.
Hi Matt, is there ANY WAY you can advise us how to stop the many yellow false notifications that pop up on the screen, usually in damp rainy conditions or when the sun shines towards the car?
I don't think there will be any changes to the existing Fisker app. There is going to be a new app coming out with new features. I don't have the release date.
i was thinking of getting battery tender, but Fisker tech said its only if you let your vehicle sit for a few weeks to a month its best to have this, ill drive mine to work 5 days a week, tech said i wouldn't need it then.
Yes, like I mention in the video, just like the tech says. If your 12V battery is weak that it needs the tender all the time, look at getting it replaced.
Its strange how some cars have major 12v issues and some dont. I have a extreme that has 0 vampire loses when it sits for a couple of days and my dad has a one that has been sitting for nearly 2 months at this point in a uninsulated pole barn 30f temp and no 12v issues and 8% hv loss
@@MTNRangerYes these cars do seem very temperamental to even the smallest issues so I assume even a single loose connector could cause massive phantom drain luckily the only issues I have with mine is MAJOR real range loss on 2.2 (200 miles to a full charge screen shows 175) haven't yet figured out if it's temperature related since the one day it was above 30 a nice 45 degrees my efficiency was back to a normal 0.29 kwh per mile instead of the 0.5-0.6 it seems to stick around nowadays and my worry of the HV battery pack and lithium plating in these colder temperatures as it seems the bms never shuts down charging even if the pack is below freezing (I assume it's because the battery is so large and the charger will only charge at a max of 30 amps the c rate is low enough for it to be a near non issue)
@@gameplay_unknown8658 Yes, the 2.2 update did a radical change to the reported range. With the more realistic numbers, it is a little offputting, but I consider it at least a bottom floor on range. It does seem pretty conservative with the estimates. Based on my winter road trip, I got close to the 287 miles it calculated when I started at 100%. During the Summer, the same trip would have been 320-340 miles. But pretty much all EVs have a 20-30% drop off in efficiency during cold winter months.
So if my calculations are right, the cars systems are taking approximately 50w of power continuously in a dormant state. Would be interesting to speculate what part of the car is drawing this level of power? An alarm systems current draw is normally around 0.5amps (6w) so what part of the car is working hard??
We have been wondering what is causing it for over a year now. So many subsystems. Also it seems to vary widely between individual Oceans.
@MTNRanger A thermal imaging camera could help locate the source of the loss. 40-50w doesn't go missing without creating a bit of heat. Just a thought
@@colinhare4722 I have a feeling there are dozens of modules and you will not find anything in particular with a thermal imaging camera. Also those located deep inside the dashboard, console, etc will not be detectable. If you have one, go ahead and see. Let me know what you find.
@@MTNRanger I have a thermal camera. My car is on SW 2.1 and has high vampire loss (~4%/day). Relays ERY07, ERY06, ERY05, ERY09, ERY08 in the under-hood fuse box seem warm. Maybe others too.
@@MTNRanger Madj said the PKC is always awake.
Hi Mark
I have a private loading station at home, in such case I do not need a battery tender, correct? Thanks Roger
@@rogerche.790 Do you mean a charging station (EVSE)? Some charging stations when they reach the set max charge do not start charging again u less you unplug and plug back in. So not useful if the car is left for a very long time.
I have a Fisker L1 Charging cable as well as Lectron L1 15amp charger identical to the one you have. So far, I’ve been charging my car at various charge stations, such as charge point. For the first time ever, I tried to charge my car at my building. I recently moved to a brand new apartment building. Every time, I plug in either of the chargers it start charging for 10-15min before it cut/pop the circuit/breaker on the wall. My neighbor has VW iD4 and doesn’t have any issues charging. I tried different outlets in the building and have the same issue. I tried to lower the charging in the car from 32 to 16 and 8, but it still interrupt the circuit. I tried “Sleep cycle” and “reset” option on the car but didn’t help. I have an Ocean Ultra and running 2.0 software. What do you think the issue? How can I resolve this issue and get my car charged without interrupting the circuit? Many thanks
@@user-vx3jv6cc2g you have to make sure the circuit does not have anything else running on it. It does sound like an issue with the circuit and not the car. Can you try the VW’s charger to see if it happens? Does the VW charge at the same outlet as you?
I tried the VW charger and used the same outlet my neighbor use to charge her iD4. It cut the circuit while connected to my car and once switched to her car it works just fine. I tried three other outlets in the building with her charger and my charger in all the cases it cut the circuit. I took my car to nearby ChargePoint this morning and was able to charge my car for almost an hour with no issue. I’m running out of charge and I’m planning to the ChargePoint tomorrow and leave my car for a day to charge. Do you think the issue could be my car? Do you think if I lower the amp in my car from 32 to 16 or 8 make any change? Although once I tried lower amp on the car and yet the disconnected circuit.
@ If you are charging at the ChargePoint without issue, it's most likely the building. Something could be triggering the issue such as grounding or voltage. This is the first time I have heard of this type of problem. Possibly the VW is less sensitive to the issue.
Hi Matt, is there ANY WAY you can advise us how to stop the many yellow false notifications that pop up on the screen, usually in damp rainy conditions or when the sun shines towards the car?
No solution at this time.
@MTNRanger this is my #1 issue with the car. I'll be so happy if/when this issue is addressed
I paid for the FOA membership but the app is still the same did you see any changes?
I don't think there will be any changes to the existing Fisker app. There is going to be a new app coming out with new features. I don't have the release date.
I thought the new app release date was Today Jan 1st at least that’s how they made it seem
@ I’ve been away on vacation and I’m catching up on the news.
Matt, can I use a 40 amp level 2 charger on my fisker?
You can use any EVSE, but the max accepted by the car's onboard charger is 32 amp. For example, my 40 amp EVSE works fine and sends 32 amp to the car.
i was thinking of getting battery tender, but Fisker tech said its only if you let your vehicle sit for a few weeks to a month its best to have this, ill drive mine to work 5 days a week, tech said i wouldn't need it then.
Yes, like I mention in the video, just like the tech says. If your 12V battery is weak that it needs the tender all the time, look at getting it replaced.
Its strange how some cars have major 12v issues and some dont. I have a extreme that has 0 vampire loses when it sits for a couple of days and my dad has a one that has been sitting for nearly 2 months at this point in a uninsulated pole barn 30f temp and no 12v issues and 8% hv loss
I think it may have to do with the dozens of modules in the car - not all may be updated. Then I suppose it could be luck!
@@MTNRangerYes these cars do seem very temperamental to even the smallest issues so I assume even a single loose connector could cause massive phantom drain luckily the only issues I have with mine is MAJOR real range loss on 2.2 (200 miles to a full charge screen shows 175) haven't yet figured out if it's temperature related since the one day it was above 30 a nice 45 degrees my efficiency was back to a normal 0.29 kwh per mile instead of the 0.5-0.6 it seems to stick around nowadays and my worry of the HV battery pack and lithium plating in these colder temperatures as it seems the bms never shuts down charging even if the pack is below freezing (I assume it's because the battery is so large and the charger will only charge at a max of 30 amps the c rate is low enough for it to be a near non issue)
@@gameplay_unknown8658 Yes, the 2.2 update did a radical change to the reported range. With the more realistic numbers, it is a little offputting, but I consider it at least a bottom floor on range. It does seem pretty conservative with the estimates. Based on my winter road trip, I got close to the 287 miles it calculated when I started at 100%. During the Summer, the same trip would have been 320-340 miles. But pretty much all EVs have a 20-30% drop off in efficiency during cold winter months.