Thank you to everyone who made a purchase on eBay via our affiliate link at rossmanngroup.com/ebay for helping support this type of content. Your viewership is appreciated and as always, I hope you learned something!
Do you have a contact email i can contact you at? Your video is very informative but i dont know if i am comfortable with soldering my ipad touch screen connector with my shitty soldering iron lol.
Dude.... thank you so much for this video, as well as the comprehensive catalogue of videos here on your channel. I just recently started doing my own board repair work on flight controllers, ESCs, and all other UAV hardware components to try and save myself the ludicrous amount of money I spend on replacements. I’ve been looking for an extensive resource for information on PCB reworking like this, and so far your channel has been an immeasurable help to me, so I wanted to thank you! I will make any purchases that I can thru your affiliate accounts, this micro soldering iron included, thanks again!
Dude I’m totally new to this and I want to be able to fix my PlayStation controllers which as everyone knows go bad pretty regularly (bad design) but I want a good iron and this Hakko set up looks really good. Anyway thank you so much for making this video I truly appreciate it and am now a subscriber…
@@vgrepairs thank you I appreciate the advice I’m definitely not going to be doing electronics regularly besides fixing controllers and small stuff like that.
"Why would you need a key to set the temperature?" - You don't. Plug the key, break it off and it'll stay there forever :). "whoever designed it..." - the name is usually on the bottom of the station with his signature. He's proud.
@ Louis Rossman I bought a used one and it didn't come with a key... was about to return it but I took it apart and noticed that the key only interrupts an optical sensor. Taped over the receiver and it works like a key is inserted! Hope this help other people that find the key annoying. Anyway brother... I wish you the best with your new location! Cheers from Colorado!
You can buy just the yellow receptacle piece that fits the FM2032 micropencil, if you want to convert a stand. Part number B5000, about $6-7 from Hakko.
I've noticed that when you try to remove the solder bridge, there's a lot of oxidation on the tip. What I like to do in these cases, is to re-tin the tip with fresh solder and dip it in the tip cleaner. That allows the the blob to more easily flow back on the tip. Try it. I think you'll like it.
We had these same FX-951 soldering station on our production lines. In our case, the key was used to keep the temperature locked in and the operator was unable to change it. This was due to people raising the temperature way up and causing pads to go bye bye. Since we didnt have the key, we would just cut out a piece of cardboard shaped like the key and worked perfectly fine!😅 So, if you lose the key don't even buy a new one. Cut one out yourself.
25:13 all solder stations are adjusting the power to the tip if needed to reach the set temp, even the 30usd Chinese Hakko clones, the main difference is in the tip design and manufacturing quality of the tips. All JBC and Metcal (and the Hakko fx951 too) are heating the tip DIRECTLY -heating element runs right inside the tip, that is why when u replace the tip it is not only a small piece of metal but a long metal shaft, every tip includes the heating element too. The station can pump the energy directly to the tip of the tip. The price of a single tip will be much higher, like 20-60usd but it is very fast to recover and very stable too. Much cheaper to use only a single heat element which is about 2-4cm far from the tip, with a heat buffer around, so when u replace the tip is just a small piece of metal squeezed to the heat buffer, very cheap to replace the tip but the heat has to travel a lot from the heat element, if there is no proper contact between the parts the heat cannot travel trough and this is EXACTLY the issue with the 30usd stations. Actually not the station itself is crap but the iron and specifically the tip, the heat will "stuck" in the heat element because there is multiple air gap between the replaceable parts but even in the supposedly single piece tip, if u have a Hakko-copy cheap 1usd tip from ebay look inside of it and u will see an "insert" pushed in (loosely), if they would not push that in it would not make any contact with the heat element. So it is crap design and crap manufacturing. It still worth to have one though, good for small boards and melt plastic or hot glue. But if you have a "heat buffer-single heat element" design with proper manufacturing it is still fine and results in a usable iron, like the Weller WP80 with the WPS80 iron (tip selection is very limited for micro soldering). So why is the JBC is so expensive? Because it pumps 130-150w (temporary peak) DIRECTLY in the tip making it the fastest recovering iron on the market and they have the widest selection of tips, and this allows them to overcharge for their products.
+fifferfiffer Good info. I figured I was doing a terrible job of explaining it. Those irons where it heats something that the tip then goes around are far behind the irons with the very long tip. I'd rather have the good $15 tip than the garbage $5 tip.
Tip design and manufacturing quality.... I'm...ok.. Nice advertising mumbo jumbo... Now explain why any decent hardness metal tip can't be sharpened enough to do micro. All the end of the day it's metal, conduct hear, and is sharp.
Hey, you should check out the Pace ADS200 when it comes out (seems to be stuck in manufacturing hell at the moment, nobody is able to get hold of them). They're ~240$ brand new including 1x of their newest top tier handpiece. And they're not a step-down by the looks of it - they are a full meat and potatoes serving of Pace grade soldering. Well, allegedly, hence, you should test it!
I also have the FX-951. the key is used in production environments where the production engineers don't want the technicians changing the temperature of the iron. this can be useful with certain types of solder where some elements can boil off or you may overheat some components. the assembler will always to what they can to make life easier, even if it means burning components. Basically its designed to be set up by smart people who know what they are doing and used by very stupid people on a production line!I just leave the key in!The instruction leaflet is really worth a 10 minute read. you can set things like the tolerance for the beep. so if you have it set to 400 degrees it will beep once it gets within +- 5 degrees or whatever tolerance you like.I love the sleep function. the iron has paid for itself in tips many times over!BTW the key actually only blocks an IR sensor down the left hand side! a piece of thick card works just as well!
+Peter Morgan "the assembler will always to what they can to make life easier, even if it means burning components. Basically its designed to be set up by smart people who know what they are doing and used by very stupid people on a production line!I " I know exactly where you are coming from :D Been there, DONE THAT!!!! Are you a production engineer? ;)
+Louis Rossmann No, I use the iron (and many of the other tools you have there!) to make brass models for customers. but I do have an engineering background.Not sure if RUclips will allow me to add a link to my site but here goes. focusmodelling.co.uk.I have been trying to turn it into more of a youtube channel, but I just don't understand how you guys find the time. I am turning out 1 vid every couple of weeks.
I have been using the FX-951 basically since it came out and I have been thinking about getting the FM-2032 attachment for it and I just could never justify buying it until now lol. I have gotten by fine with the standard tip and a tip that we filed down which is very hit or miss lol. Time to make my life easier and get one of these and throw away that filed tip lol. You're awesome thank you for this video, really helped me make up my mind finally.
hi, thank you for all the video you do, it's really great a want to mansion that what you say for the price of soldering handpiece is not totaly exact. in fact the price of an T210 from JBC is 50euro(about 60dollars) if you get just the iron without the stand. for hakko the FM-2032 is 100dollars in us(and about 100euro in europe) for the iron. this is way cheaper for JBC. same thing for all handpieces like microtwezer this is just for the iron handpiece. you dont have to buy the stand for all soldering iron, so if you want to buy it: the iron stand is 125euro for JBC, 70dolars for hakko. this is way cheaper for hakko in conclusion, if you buy just the handpiece, the JBC is cheaper. if you buy the iron and stand, it's about the same price other thing, for the station, the JBC you compare to the hakko is the high end station. compare it to the CD-S or CD-S is great comparison(around 450dollars)
you mention that tip cleaner a few times for the JBC. I know folks that use jbc's at work.. dual pencil setups, hot air, rework stations.. they use the brass sponge, they didnt see the tip cleaner as worth it either..
I guess the key is for use in production environments where you want to make sure that the soldering lady doesn't turn it way up to work faster, but ruining the components in the process.
+zaprodk The company I work for has all the irons locked to a maximum temperature as well, which is stupid. Sometimes you need more power, and then you can not go any higher than 390 degrees Celsius (I believe it is set). It even has nothing to do with the component life or -sensitivity, but it is just to preserve the life of the JBC tips in those irons. People don't know the way they are supposed to treat the equipment they are using, apparently.
+Crocellian the day I work someplace where I can't set the temperature of my station is the day I jump out a window. But knowing my employer the net would probably bounce back in
Thank you . Your videos have been rather helpful to explain Different soldering techniques. I wish I had more experience with this . I can diagnose issues quickly but don’t have the equipment or experience in this type of repair. In fact today I have a Samsung tv come in with the ribbon connector on the t con board badly corroded. I removed the board removed excess corrosion then gave an ultrasonic bath in alcohol. It worked fine afterwards for an hour but then the picture started cutting out again . I suppose the metal oxidized this quickly??? I can replace the board but was curious if putting some flux and heat would help.
What's going to be the standard size/shape tip for general use? The FX951 on Amazon that comes with one tip uses a D16, but the bundle that comes with 5 tips comes with D08, D12, D24, D32 and D52. I believe I read that the FX888D uses a D16 by default. I think my old workplace used a D24 for soldering 22AWG stranded wire together but I can't really remember if it was that big, or if it just looked that big while tinned. Or would you even recommend going up to a D32? Which two or three chisel tips would you recommend? I was thinking the D12, D16, and D24. I'll probably only play around with computer keyboard PCBs, RC cars, and electric guitar wiring. Do you think a D08 is too small? Thanks!
2014: "Hisco Announces Acquisition of All-Spec Industries." Outside of items you sell in your online store have you had the same experience with Hisco online experiences, or is this typical conglomeration destruction?
52:13 price comparison to JBC, i think u should have compare the Hakko to the JBC CD-1SE 120 V - Precision station which is about 500usd (compact line) JBC`s website is bit misleading when it shows the compatible tools, but if u download the manual on the 4. page u can see that it is compatible with 3 different iron holders: T210-A Precision Purpose Handle T245-A General Purpose Handle T470-A HD Purpose Handle and this is a lot a tip variation from micro to heavy duty soldering. It is not compatible with the nano handle and hot tweezers though so if u need those u really have to go with the DIR station for 770usd. AFAIK there is no hot tweezers available for Hakko-951.
Hey louis, sorry for replying on an old video but i was wondering what tip do you recommend for soldering 01005 and 0201, I currently have a hakko that uses t15 tips. thanks
Great video , so did you use the max heat with the 2032 (840)Fahrenheit ,only that looked like where it was set when you first put the camera on it ??? Loving how up front you are and informative 👍 How did / do you know where to run that jumper wire to !!!
While I like your videos I have to say that you do go a bit off the deep end with the menu system thing. Much like you I prefer analog controls, I just want to reach over and crank a knob up or down when I need more or less heat. With that said times have changed and we need to adapt. It took me less than a few seconds to figure out how to set the temperature on my Hakko FX-951 and to be honest, I don't really mind it. You are correct, the pound button is the offset temp for those who are anal retentive over knowing the exact tip temp. As you know tips with different thermal masses will have different offsets and the offset lets you program in the exactly measured offset so the display is correct. Like most people who have been soldering for a while I solder by feel so knowing the exact tip temp isn't important. I suppose knowing the exact tip temp might be important for newbies who haven't fully developed their soldering skills yet for me it's just another distraction. I also have to ask why you simply don't disable the key locking feature. The key is for production environments. Production environments have problems with line workers who are paid by the piece trying to increase their production numbers by cranking the irons up to max temp, (ALL KNOBS TO THE RIGHT) . As such it's critical that production managers have the ability to lock the irons down to prevent these clowns from overheating componets. Overheated components that sneak past QC end up increasing the warranty returns as they fail in the field. In a one-man shop, you just disable the key. The instructions for the FX951 are about 3 paragraphs long and it take about 2 minutes to read. Had you scanned the instructions you would have learned that you can simply disable the key function which is the first thing I did when I got mine. I suppose Hakko could default the key to disabled but apparently, they sell the FX-951 by the 1000's to production facilities where that feature is actually used. If you think the Hakko menu is complicated you should look at the TS-100 iron coming out of China. It's the latest fad amongst hobbyists. It has an OLED display and a frigging nested menu system that's like 30 levels deep. Its a "smart iron" with a USB port for programming profiles LOL !!! I swear the people who buy these things spend more time talking about them and fiddling with the menu settings than actually using them.
Reading a manual to use a ZM-R6200c, I understand. However, the moment you have to read a manual for a basic soldering iron, that's a fail - especially if it costs nearly $300.
Louis Rossmann Welcome to the digital age, LOl hey face it, menu systems and LCD touch screens it's what everybody wants. Personally as far as I'm concerned it's just a soldering iron I needed to get hot hold temperature and get the job done I don't need a menu system and 30 or 40 different settings. Like I said take a look at the ts100 that thing has inexpensive menu system. And most of the hobbyist think it's the best soldering iron ever made. I think you and I are in the minority, I come from an analog background and would much prefer a nice analog feeling knob. But I'm willing to tolerate the menu system because I really like the new cartridge style tips and I don't think I can go back to the soldering iron that doesn't have a sleep feature. By the was my son came by today and we watched your video together. I'm impressed he actually watched the whole thing with me. He got his ham ticket when he was 8 and I had him building kits by 11, he has since lost interest but I think you got a kick out of watching it replaced that video connector. One last thing I'm curious about the Kester solder that your using is. it seems like whatever flux is in it is compatible with the paste flux that you're using.
Hey Louis I'm a noob trying to get a little more serious with soldering can you give me advise because I'm thinking of buying a Hakko fx-951 or something like a Pace ADS200 or A WJS 100. Can you tell me what it's going to be a better choice on the long run? And which has a better heater technology?
Would you recommend the Hakko FX100? I was looking into both the FX100 and FX951. I know it induction type is the next generation. I was thinking of future proofing.. Your thoughts and opinion would be appreciated.
Louis, is that micropencil compatible with most Hakko stations? I have an FX-888D (digital but I bought it awhile back for general purpose stuff and so far it's done good with microsoldering with a T18-BR02 tip). I'd love to have an actual micropencil handpiece for tacking individual pins. But I don't want to drop $150-$200 on the handpiece and tip if it won't work with my current station. I have plans of upgrading to a more appropriate station but if the one I already have can work with it I'd like to stick with it.
Thank you for the great tips in your video. Now I know what iron to get for board work. By the way what kind of microscope are you using? And how much was it? Thanks again for the great video.
Hello and thanks for this helping useful video! Could you measure the trasformer's output voltage of the station because i 'd like to convert it to eu standards 230V AC. Thanks in advance!
Where's your 5s trace repair, yo? That's where the micropencil really shines. You can do it. Try one, I have been missing hearing Louis's creative cursing in my life for a few weeks :)
The most annoying thing I’ve noticed when trying to buy soldering equipment is all of the soldering iron companies mainly aim their business at the US MARKET. It’s so hard to buy soldering equipment when you live in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧. 240v Hakko stuff is hard to get.
I love Japan, but I guess the japanese are really into minimalism (Hakko being japanese), so pound is temp and all all that and asterix as well, hehe:-)
Hi Louis need some advice I'm considering buying the 951 with the 2031 but I also love like the idea of the fm 203 for the advantage of using the tweezers for smd work.Would you recommend the tweezers or should I get a hot air station and 951
+Louis Rossmann I was the same way the first time when I unpacked the Hakko FX-951. My first goal out of the box was to change the reading to C because I hate F. So I took the time to go thru the manual, that's how I learned about the temp calibration :)
hi man, like your videos. i have aoyue 968 and its complete shit, i think to upgrade to fx-951, but theres a lot of fake ones online im in UK. do you know how to find out that its real one?
It's not a bad device, but you don't get the diversity in tips you get with the Hakko, nor the diversity in irons. It's designed for the micro pencil only. The Hakko T30-KN, IMO, is a better tip than most of what JBC is offering for what I do, and the FX-951 will power the T15-JS02 with a 2027 iron as well as the micropencil 032. I think the Hakko is a better deal unless you really value the pretty LCD Now when it comes to hot air yeah I think that JBC slaughters everyone else but on basic irons Hakko/weller have caught up big time. Ten years ago they sucked compared to JBC but that gap has closed.
This isn't true I think the JBC CD will work with the 210 and 245 handles. I believe the 210 is considered a micro pencil for JBC. Just look at their web page and it says the unit works for both handles.
It is not true that it is only designed for the t210 micropencil, it is totally valid for the t245, also a soldering iron for general use.@@rossmanngroup
Which extra tips would you recommend for the FM-2027 iron? I currently have the T15-J tip, which doesn't work very well for wicking. Which bevel tip do you use?
hi Louis what do you think about the fm-206 station????? I know this one is so good but I need some help to decide if I get the dual or the fm206 any help please
Louis - same opinion on the Hakko FM202 being junk? I agree with everything you said about shoddy interfacing but ultimately am interested in performance.
A Nixon FM-202 is fine if you use microsoldering tweezers. If you don't use microsoldering tweezers then I'd just get the 951, the 951 can sleep and doesn't have the bullshit design flaw of power button on the back of the device.
48:30 hehe, Hakko is not gonna change the design to make it more comfortable otherwise how can they push u towards the more expensive stations. If someone solders on a daily basis, especially on a wide range of products deep in their heart they wish for a station with - at least - 2 irons SIMULTANEOUSLY so u dont have to f*uck around with constant changing of the iron + the plug will eventually break. Btw, does anyone know how can i buy the Hakko FM-203 dual station in Europe on an acceptable price? If i have to pay the shipping and 23% VAT (566usd + about 100usd shipping +23% VAT on BOTH!! product and shiping, adds up 750eur) it is more expensive than the JBC DDE dual station (593eur with VAT).
+fifferfiffer I agree with you, sooo practical to have ready to go irons with the 2 or 4 most used tips. After a quick look at Hakko FM-203 in Europe, i se they are really overpriced here. Ex. from Hakko Hungary: FM-203 Dual station with 1 pencil cost 750 euro brutto. And from tme.eu : JBC DME-2A 300w 4 channel, station cost 757 Euro netto. And from tme.eu : JBC DDE-2 150w 2 channel, station cost 479 Euro netto. If i buy from sweden and Import from other EU country, then i dont pay VAT at all, just tell a friend with company or boss at work to buy it for you. Check with your country, pretty shure it works same way. Brutto= with Tax, VAT Netto= without Tax, VAT By the numbers it is something like choose between clockradio or JBC for EU people. Also agree with Mr.Rossman that if Hakko delivers the heat, you dont need the luxery stuff withTime consuming menues. Knob is always a Knob, quick and easy.
Why is it that we don't see your jbc soldering station and hot air station, I have seen some of your videos where you mention the jbcs but you aren't using them
@@rossmanngroup because I have a problem :'( In hakko station appear one erro with this: "S - E" And, obviously I can't use the micropencil. Do you know what can happening? 😭
Thank you to everyone who made a purchase on eBay via our affiliate link at rossmanngroup.com/ebay for helping support this type of content. Your viewership is appreciated and as always, I hope you learned something!
do you have an email I can contact you
Do you have a contact email i can contact you at? Your video is very informative but i dont know if i am comfortable with soldering my ipad touch screen connector with my shitty soldering iron lol.
When louis make a video in 2015 and helps in 2019 thanks again man
2020
2021
2022 almost 2023 lol
2024
My FX-951 and FM-2032 arrived today and I couldn't be happier. Thanks Louis for the recommendation.
+DigitalAura Glad this helped you!
Dude.... thank you so much for this video, as well as the comprehensive catalogue of videos here on your channel. I just recently started doing my own board repair work on flight controllers, ESCs, and all other UAV hardware components to try and save myself the ludicrous amount of money I spend on replacements. I’ve been looking for an extensive resource for information on PCB reworking like this, and so far your channel has been an immeasurable help to me, so I wanted to thank you! I will make any purchases that I can thru your affiliate accounts, this micro soldering iron included, thanks again!
Dude I’m totally new to this and I want to be able to fix my PlayStation controllers which as everyone knows go bad pretty regularly (bad design) but I want a good iron and this Hakko set up looks really good. Anyway thank you so much for making this video I truly appreciate it and am now a subscriber…
Don't buy the hakko as a starter iron. Get a cheap adjustable dial soldering iron from Amazon with some spare tips.
@@vgrepairs thank you I appreciate the advice I’m definitely not going to be doing electronics regularly besides fixing controllers and small stuff like that.
"Why would you need a key to set the temperature?" - You don't. Plug the key, break it off and it'll stay there forever :).
"whoever designed it..." - the name is usually on the bottom of the station with his signature. He's proud.
The problem is, if you leave the key there, turn off, then turn on, it will not let you set the temperature.
@ Louis Rossman I bought a used one and it didn't come with a key... was about to return it but I took it apart and noticed that the key only interrupts an optical sensor. Taped over the receiver and it works like a key is inserted! Hope this help other people that find the key annoying. Anyway brother... I wish you the best with your new location! Cheers from Colorado!
You can buy just the yellow receptacle piece that fits the FM2032 micropencil, if you want to convert a stand. Part number B5000, about $6-7 from Hakko.
I've noticed that when you try to remove the solder bridge, there's a lot of oxidation on the tip. What I like to do in these cases, is to re-tin the tip with fresh solder and dip it in the tip cleaner. That allows the the blob to more easily flow back on the tip. Try it. I think you'll like it.
+mrnuke Good point. I find it's more difficult to keep oxidation off the micro tips from the larger ones.
We had these same FX-951 soldering station on our production lines. In our case, the key was used to keep the temperature locked in and the operator was unable to change it. This was due to people raising the temperature way up and causing pads to go bye bye. Since we didnt have the key, we would just cut out a piece of cardboard shaped like the key and worked perfectly fine!😅 So, if you lose the key don't even buy a new one. Cut one out yourself.
25:13 all solder stations are adjusting the power to the tip if needed to reach the set temp, even the 30usd Chinese Hakko clones, the main difference is in the tip design and manufacturing quality of the tips.
All JBC and Metcal (and the Hakko fx951 too) are heating the tip DIRECTLY -heating element runs right inside the tip, that is why when u replace the tip it is not only a small piece of metal but a long metal shaft, every tip includes the heating element too. The station can pump the energy directly to the tip of the tip. The price of a single tip will be much higher, like 20-60usd but it is very fast to recover and very stable too.
Much cheaper to use only a single heat element which is about 2-4cm far from the tip, with a heat buffer around, so when u replace the tip is just a small piece of metal squeezed to the heat buffer, very cheap to replace the tip but the heat has to travel a lot from the heat element, if there is no proper contact between the parts the heat cannot travel trough and this is EXACTLY the issue with the 30usd stations. Actually not the station itself is crap but the iron and specifically the tip, the heat will "stuck" in the heat element because there is multiple air gap between the replaceable parts but even in the supposedly single piece tip, if u have a Hakko-copy cheap 1usd tip from ebay look inside of it and u will see an "insert" pushed in (loosely), if they would not push that in it would not make any contact with the heat element. So it is crap design and crap manufacturing. It still worth to have one though, good for small boards and melt plastic or hot glue.
But if you have a "heat buffer-single heat element" design with proper manufacturing it is still fine and results in a usable iron, like the Weller WP80 with the WPS80 iron (tip selection is very limited for micro soldering).
So why is the JBC is so expensive? Because it pumps 130-150w (temporary peak) DIRECTLY in the tip making it the fastest recovering iron on the market and they have the widest selection of tips, and this allows them to overcharge for their products.
+fifferfiffer Good info. I figured I was doing a terrible job of explaining it.
Those irons where it heats something that the tip then goes around are far behind the irons with the very long tip.
I'd rather have the good $15 tip than the garbage $5 tip.
Tip design and manufacturing quality.... I'm...ok.. Nice advertising mumbo jumbo... Now explain why any decent hardness metal tip can't be sharpened enough to do micro. All the end of the day it's metal, conduct hear, and is sharp.
i use 951 for a year.it's work but when need to change temperature, it's sucks.finally bought fx950 an analog version i really love it
Hey, you should check out the Pace ADS200 when it comes out (seems to be stuck in manufacturing hell at the moment, nobody is able to get hold of them). They're ~240$ brand new including 1x of their newest top tier handpiece. And they're not a step-down by the looks of it - they are a full meat and potatoes serving of Pace grade soldering. Well, allegedly, hence, you should test it!
OK I am sold on FM-2032, thanks
Great video on how well the hakko 951 funtions
You can mod the 951 to not require the key card. Shouldn't have to though, absolutely, if that's what you're thinking.
I also have the FX-951. the key is used in production environments where the production engineers don't want the technicians changing the temperature of the iron. this can be useful with certain types of solder where some elements can boil off or you may overheat some components. the assembler will always to what they can to make life easier, even if it means burning components. Basically its designed to be set up by smart people who know what they are doing and used by very stupid people on a production line!I just leave the key in!The instruction leaflet is really worth a 10 minute read. you can set things like the tolerance for the beep. so if you have it set to 400 degrees it will beep once it gets within +- 5 degrees or whatever tolerance you like.I love the sleep function. the iron has paid for itself in tips many times over!BTW the key actually only blocks an IR sensor down the left hand side! a piece of thick card works just as well!
+Peter Morgan "the assembler will always to what they can to make life easier, even if
it means burning components. Basically its designed to be set up by
smart people who know what they are doing and used by very stupid people
on a production line!I "
I know exactly where you are coming from :D Been there, DONE THAT!!!! Are you a production engineer? ;)
+Louis Rossmann No, I use the iron (and many of the other tools you have there!) to make brass models for customers. but I do have an engineering background.Not sure if RUclips will allow me to add a link to my site but here goes. focusmodelling.co.uk.I have been trying to turn it into more of a youtube channel, but I just don't understand how you guys find the time. I am turning out 1 vid every couple of weeks.
The "-10" is used for temperature calibration. There's a specific calibration device for this.
hahaha "i didn't even know you were able to wipe your ass with a piece of aluminum" that is hilarious
I have been using the FX-951 basically since it came out and I have been thinking about getting the FM-2032 attachment for it and I just could never justify buying it until now lol. I have gotten by fine with the standard tip and a tip that we filed down which is very hit or miss lol. Time to make my life easier and get one of these and throw away that filed tip lol. You're awesome thank you for this video, really helped me make up my mind finally.
+Short CirQit I didn't feel like spending $130 on it and tips for a long time but I am glad we di
I wish they had a small 1mm bevel tip for the 2032. Would make drag soldering small stuff a lot easier.
I have a Hakko FX888D and i have to work with "UP" and "Enter". The previous version just had a knob for adjusting the temperature.
You can 3D print a card that doesn't stick out as far, it's basically flush (almost) and be sure to use black ABS or it might not work.
Some very good points. and i am in the market for my first station,so this is very helpful.
in 2016,this vid is still a great guide for me.
Ah, I remember bridging 2 capacitors, then accidentally knocking it off and losing it... fun times
hi,
thank you for all the video you do, it's really great
a want to mansion that what you say for the price of soldering handpiece is not totaly exact.
in fact the price of an T210 from JBC is 50euro(about 60dollars) if you get just the iron without the stand. for hakko the FM-2032 is 100dollars in us(and about 100euro in europe) for the iron. this is way cheaper for JBC. same thing for all handpieces like microtwezer
this is just for the iron handpiece. you dont have to buy the stand for all soldering iron, so if you want to buy it:
the iron stand is 125euro for JBC, 70dolars for hakko. this is way cheaper for hakko
in conclusion, if you buy just the handpiece, the JBC is cheaper. if you buy the iron and stand, it's about the same price
other thing, for the station, the JBC you compare to the hakko is the high end station. compare it to the CD-S or CD-S is great comparison(around 450dollars)
"I didn't know you could wipe your ass with a piece of aluminum."
Shit had me dying.
you mention that tip cleaner a few times for the JBC. I know folks that use jbc's at work.. dual pencil setups, hot air, rework stations.. they use the brass sponge, they didnt see the tip cleaner as worth it either..
I love the way that you are talking ,
thanks for your great job
I guess the key is for use in production environments where you want to make sure that the soldering lady doesn't turn it way up to work faster, but ruining the components in the process.
+zaprodk It's odd because in production environments the soldering lady probably gets whipped and beaten if she doesn't work faster.
+Louis Rossmann Well maybe you are correct, but the production environments that i have been in, it hasn't been so (i'm from Denmark)
+zaprodk The company I work for has all the irons locked to a maximum temperature as well, which is stupid. Sometimes you need more power, and then you can not go any higher than 390 degrees Celsius (I believe it is set). It even has nothing to do with the component life or -sensitivity, but it is just to preserve the life of the JBC tips in those irons. People don't know the way they are supposed to treat the equipment they are using, apparently.
Awesome video, I just found your channel. Help me understand the fume extractor you are using. Thank you...
Thank you for the free education
Awesome review. Your videos are always top notch.
The annoyance key is for production shops. Employees getting piece work pay set irons too hot. Management controls them with the key.
+Crocellian the day I work someplace where I can't set the temperature of my station is the day I jump out a window. But knowing my employer the net would probably bounce back in
Thank you . Your videos have been rather helpful to explain Different soldering techniques. I wish I had more experience with this . I can diagnose issues quickly but don’t have the equipment or experience in this type of repair. In fact today I have a Samsung tv come in with the ribbon connector on the t con board badly corroded. I removed the board removed excess corrosion then gave an ultrasonic bath in alcohol. It worked fine afterwards for an hour but then the picture started cutting out again . I suppose the metal oxidized this quickly??? I can replace the board but was curious if putting some flux and heat would help.
What's going to be the standard size/shape tip for general use? The FX951 on Amazon that comes with one tip uses a D16, but the bundle that comes with 5 tips comes with D08, D12, D24, D32 and D52. I believe I read that the FX888D uses a D16 by default.
I think my old workplace used a D24 for soldering 22AWG stranded wire together but I can't really remember if it was that big, or if it just looked that big while tinned. Or would you even recommend going up to a D32?
Which two or three chisel tips would you recommend? I was thinking the D12, D16, and D24. I'll probably only play around with computer keyboard PCBs, RC cars, and electric guitar wiring. Do you think a D08 is too small? Thanks!
2014: "Hisco Announces Acquisition of All-Spec Industries."
Outside of items you sell in your online store have you had the same experience with Hisco online experiences, or is this typical conglomeration destruction?
How do these display connectors get destroyed? Is it because of humidity or water damage?
52:13 price comparison to JBC, i think u should have compare the Hakko to the JBC CD-1SE 120 V - Precision station which is about 500usd (compact line)
JBC`s website is bit misleading when it shows the compatible tools, but if u download the manual on the 4. page u can see that it is compatible with 3 different iron holders:
T210-A Precision Purpose Handle
T245-A General Purpose Handle
T470-A HD Purpose Handle
and this is a lot a tip variation from micro to heavy duty soldering.
It is not compatible with the nano handle and hot tweezers though so if u need those u really have to go with the DIR station for 770usd.
AFAIK there is no hot tweezers available for Hakko-951.
What's your trick for keeping solder on the actual tip of a J-style, instead of it instantly migrating to "the elbow"?
Hi Louis you can run the station wihout the key............
You finally found some gloves Gj! :D
+Enflics Yep, needed!
THAT WHITE BOX WITH THE MONITOR ID BEGGING TO GET KOCKED OFF
man this is awesome! hat off for all the best education stuff and the details explaining all that. I have hakko fx 888d but the
fx -951 it's better.
have you tried the TS100 soldering iron? curious what your take is. I love watching your videos!
Hey louis, sorry for replying on an old video but i was wondering what tip do you recommend for soldering 01005 and 0201, I currently have a hakko that uses t15 tips. thanks
T30-KN with a 2032 iron. But I'm weird.
@@rossmanngroup thanks
Great video , so did you use the max heat with the 2032 (840)Fahrenheit ,only that looked like where it was set when you first put the
camera on it ??? Loving how up front you are and informative 👍 How did / do you know where to run that jumper wire to !!!
+alaster harmons Boardview software told me where to put jumper, FX-951 was at 840f for the entire time.
If you had to choose between the Hakko FX-951 or the JBC CD-S, being the Hakko a little more expensive, which one would you pick up?
While I like your videos I have to say that you do go a bit off the deep end with the menu system thing.
Much like you I prefer analog controls, I just want to reach over and crank a knob up or down when I need more or less heat. With that said times have changed and we need to adapt. It took me less than a few seconds to figure out how to set the temperature on my Hakko FX-951 and to be honest, I don't really mind it.
You are correct, the pound button is the offset temp for those who are anal retentive over knowing the exact tip temp. As you know tips with different thermal masses will have different offsets and the offset lets you program in the exactly measured offset so the display is correct. Like most people who have been soldering for a while I solder by feel so knowing the exact tip temp isn't important. I suppose knowing the exact tip temp might be important for newbies who haven't fully developed their soldering skills yet for me it's just another distraction.
I also have to ask why you simply don't disable the key locking feature. The key is for production environments. Production environments have problems with line workers who are paid by the piece trying to increase their production numbers by cranking the irons up to max temp, (ALL KNOBS TO THE RIGHT) . As such it's critical that production managers have the ability to lock the irons down to prevent these clowns from overheating componets. Overheated components that sneak past QC end up increasing the warranty returns as they fail in the field.
In a one-man shop, you just disable the key. The instructions for the FX951 are about 3 paragraphs long and it take about 2 minutes to read. Had you scanned the instructions you would have learned that you can simply disable the key function which is the first thing I did when I got mine. I suppose Hakko could default the key to disabled but apparently, they sell the FX-951 by the 1000's to production facilities where that feature is actually used.
If you think the Hakko menu is complicated you should look at the TS-100 iron coming out of China. It's the latest fad amongst hobbyists. It has an OLED display and a frigging nested menu system that's like 30 levels deep. Its a "smart iron" with a USB port for programming profiles LOL !!! I swear the people who buy these things spend more time talking about them and fiddling with the menu settings than actually using them.
Reading a manual to use a ZM-R6200c, I understand. However, the moment you have to read a manual for a basic soldering iron, that's a fail - especially if it costs nearly $300.
Louis Rossmann Welcome to the digital age, LOl hey face it, menu systems and LCD touch screens it's what everybody wants. Personally as far as I'm concerned it's just a soldering iron I needed to get hot hold temperature and get the job done I don't need a menu system and 30 or 40 different settings.
Like I said take a look at the ts100 that thing has inexpensive menu system. And most of the hobbyist think it's the best soldering iron ever made.
I think you and I are in the minority, I come from an analog background and would much prefer a nice analog feeling knob.
But I'm willing to tolerate the menu system because I really like the new cartridge style tips and I don't think I can go back to the soldering iron that doesn't have a sleep feature.
By the was my son came by today and we watched your video together. I'm impressed he actually watched the whole thing with me. He got his ham ticket when he was 8 and I had him building kits by 11, he has since lost interest but I think you got a kick out of watching it replaced that video connector.
One last thing I'm curious about the Kester solder that your using is. it seems like whatever flux is in it is compatible with the paste flux that you're using.
Hey Louis I'm a noob trying to get a little more serious with soldering can you give me advise because I'm thinking of buying a Hakko fx-951 or something like a Pace ADS200 or A WJS 100. Can you tell me what it's going to be a better choice on the long run? And which has a better heater technology?
Hi, brillant video, how did you know where to jump the broken pad to? i mean if it was the pad next to it would u jump it to the same place? thanks!
Thank you so much for this video! A great help :)
Thanks for watching!
Would you recommend the Hakko FX100? I was looking into both the FX100 and FX951. I know it induction type is the next generation. I was thinking of future proofing.. Your thoughts and opinion would be appreciated.
what temp do you solder at? :)
Could it had been advantageous to remove the LCD connector using Chipquik?
FX-950 is the analog one
Louis, is that micropencil compatible with most Hakko stations? I have an FX-888D (digital but I bought it awhile back for general purpose stuff and so far it's done good with microsoldering with a T18-BR02 tip). I'd love to have an actual micropencil handpiece for tacking individual pins. But I don't want to drop $150-$200 on the handpiece and tip if it won't work with my current station. I have plans of upgrading to a more appropriate station but if the one I already have can work with it I'd like to stick with it.
That micropencil isn't listed to be compatible with your station. I also have your same model. Seems we're outta luck
Thank you for the great tips in your video. Now I know what iron to get for board work. By the way what kind of microscope are you using? And how much was it?
Thanks again for the great video.
+luke Skywalker get an amscope 3-90x trinocular boom
Thank you for your video . what do you use when you clean the coating and foam out of the PCB/Motherboard ?
Is the FX-1001 Handle a justifiable buy?
Louis come on,you know better than to use a bathroom fan as ventilator😂😂
Hello and thanks for this helping useful video! Could you measure the trasformer's output voltage of the station because i 'd like to convert it to eu standards 230V AC. Thanks in advance!
Ughh I bought the 951 only to find out 4 months later that it’s not compatible with hot tweezers 🤦🏻♂️
Where's your 5s trace repair, yo? That's where the micropencil really shines. You can do it. Try one, I have been missing hearing Louis's creative cursing in my life for a few weeks :)
+Jessa Jones I don't turn on soldering irons for $200 phones.
+Louis Rossmann Boo.
Where can we get 220V version of FX-951?
The most annoying thing I’ve noticed when trying to buy soldering equipment is all of the soldering iron companies mainly aim their business at the US MARKET. It’s so hard to buy soldering equipment when you live in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧. 240v Hakko stuff is hard to get.
Is the key only mechanical? I would probably just saw the handle off..
Hi, Louis! What do you think about Weller micro soldering tools, wmrt and wxmp series?
What kind of solder do you use? Brand, lead content, thickness?? Thanks
I love Japan, but I guess the japanese are really into minimalism (Hakko being japanese), so pound is temp and all all that and asterix as well, hehe:-)
Hi Louis need some advice I'm considering buying the 951 with the 2031 but I also love like the idea of the fm 203 for the advantage of using the tweezers for smd work.Would you recommend the tweezers or should I get a hot air station and 951
-10 is the tip sensor temp calibration. Factory default is 0 but somehow you changed it to -10 :)
+toly78 Probably while poking around frustrated!!
+Louis Rossmann I was the same way the first time when I unpacked the Hakko FX-951. My first goal out of the box was to change the reading to C because I hate F. So I took the time to go thru the manual, that's how I learned about the temp calibration :)
20:51 but does it go to 11?
Hakko FX-951 work with 220v 60 hrz or non
excellent!
Cool
Why not modify your station to bypass the key?
hi man, like your videos. i have aoyue 968 and its complete shit, i think to upgrade to fx-951, but theres a lot of fake ones online im in UK. do you know how to find out that its real one?
What would you think about the JBC CD-1SE in comparison? It's about $450.
It's not a bad device, but you don't get the diversity in tips you get with the Hakko, nor the diversity in irons. It's designed for the micro pencil only. The Hakko T30-KN, IMO, is a better tip than most of what JBC is offering for what I do, and the FX-951 will power the T15-JS02 with a 2027 iron as well as the micropencil 032. I think the Hakko is a better deal unless you really value the pretty LCD
Now when it comes to hot air yeah I think that JBC slaughters everyone else but on basic irons Hakko/weller have caught up big time. Ten years ago they sucked compared to JBC but that gap has closed.
This isn't true I think the JBC CD will work with the 210 and 245 handles. I believe the 210 is considered a micro pencil for JBC.
Just look at their web page and it says the unit works for both handles.
It is not true that it is only designed for the t210 micropencil, it is totally valid for the t245, also a soldering iron for general use.@@rossmanngroup
Which extra tips would you recommend for the FM-2027 iron? I currently have the T15-J tip, which doesn't work very well for wicking. Which bevel tip do you use?
+Emmanuel Dion-Weiss I have no idea, the label wore off mine. The medium sized one.
+Patrick Woodlock No barlow lens here.
hi Louis what do you think about the fm-206 station????? I know this one is so good but I need some help to decide if I get the dual or the fm206 any help please
fm-206 is junk. it's a 203 with a really bad hot air nozzle. search this channel to watch review of fm-206
Louis - same opinion on the Hakko FM202 being junk? I agree with everything you said about shoddy interfacing but ultimately am interested in performance.
A Nixon FM-202 is fine if you use microsoldering tweezers. If you don't use microsoldering tweezers then I'd just get the 951, the 951 can sleep and doesn't have the bullshit design flaw of power button on the back of the device.
Thanks Louis! Awesome review by the way and appreciate your wit.
25:58 No... that is just a tribute...
48:30 hehe, Hakko is not gonna change the design to make it more comfortable otherwise how can they push u towards the more expensive stations.
If someone solders on a daily basis, especially on a wide range of products deep in their heart they wish for a station with - at least - 2 irons SIMULTANEOUSLY so u dont have to f*uck around with constant changing of the iron + the plug will eventually break.
Btw, does anyone know how can i buy the Hakko FM-203 dual station in Europe on an acceptable price? If i have to pay the shipping and 23% VAT (566usd + about 100usd shipping +23% VAT on BOTH!! product and shiping, adds up 750eur) it is more expensive than the JBC DDE dual station (593eur with VAT).
+fifferfiffer I agree with you, sooo practical to have ready to go irons with the 2 or 4 most used tips.
After a quick look at Hakko FM-203 in Europe, i se they are really overpriced
here.
Ex. from Hakko Hungary: FM-203 Dual station with 1 pencil cost 750 euro brutto.
And from tme.eu : JBC DME-2A 300w 4 channel, station cost 757 Euro netto.
And from tme.eu : JBC DDE-2 150w 2 channel, station cost 479 Euro netto.
If i buy from sweden and Import from other EU country, then i dont pay VAT at all, just tell a friend with company or boss at work to buy it for you. Check with your country, pretty shure it works same way.
Brutto= with Tax, VAT
Netto= without Tax, VAT
By the numbers it is something like choose between clockradio or JBC for EU people.
Also agree with Mr.Rossman that if Hakko delivers the heat, you dont need the luxery stuff withTime consuming menues. Knob is always a Knob, quick and easy.
Why is it that we don't see your jbc soldering station and hot air station, I have seen some of your videos where you mention the jbcs but you aren't using them
He bought and did a review of it, look it up if that's what you want :)
Will this micro pencil works on any soldering workstation
Hi, the FX-951 comes with an iron: is the tip interchangeable with a T15-JS02 or am i obliged to buy the FM-2032 ?
micropencil tips require micropencil iron. standard tips require standar diron.
Thanks!
Is this station still worth it?
what kind of air(suction) purifier is that? i dont want to die . lol . im looking to buy one. thanks bro.
"The tools I use and why I bought them."
Who actually says that drag soldering is unprofessional?
please can you add all the tips that you use in your videos and in this message as reply ;-) thanks
what connector does that iron use? im wondering if i can just plug it into my station or not..
Me too, I have a 936
talkative guy >.
Is that an Amscope Microscope?
Hi!
When are you going to start selling stuff like you said maybe 1-2 weeks ago? :-)
+Stockholms Oskar Shortly, I figured I should have at least 2 to 3 reviews up before auctioning gear off for money.
Nice :-)
60fps video?... my GMA 950 MacBook isn't coping well :D
+Kyle's Tech Channel Yikes, I can't believe those still work!
Haha yeah it's still chugging along I use it as a throw around travel machine surprisingly its still in great shape
Can't you just stick the card inside?
Can i use this micropencil with hakko fx 951 station? Are compatible?
Yes, I use my FM-2032 with an FX-951 and it works great!
@@rossmanngroup because I have a problem :'(
In hakko station appear one erro with this: "S - E"
And, obviously I can't use the micropencil.
Do you know what can happening? 😭
microscope name ?
You literally look like Dexter 38:37
Its Hakko, NOT Hackko. Why do u always call its Hackko?