I am a trained teacher and this is an excellent video. Congratulations to all concerned on the clarity and high standard of information and presentation. Well done!
Great video as usual, when fitting a hob I like to remove the hob, fit the oven or whatever is going beneath then mark on the sides of the cupboard the room/void behind the oven, then remove the oven and refit the hob, now knowing what access we have for pipework.
Excellent video and walk-through. But I would have asked for the hob to sit more forward. With the bigger hobs at the back, you'd expect to use bigger pots, which cannot sit evenly with this setup
Smashing video. You took it step by step which I found VERY useful. Now I actually know why you should turn the hot tap on and check the flame picture of the burners. Don’t think I’ll ever forget that.. Thanks Derek 👍🏻 Asian Jon. Training.
Hi I really love all your videos they're very helpful and educational. I would like to ask you if it's possible please turn the music down or make it without music because it's very distracting .Many thanks looking forward to watching your new videos
Great video really appreciate your time you’ve put into all your videos. I’m currently on week 4 of my gas training and had a lil kick up my ass to get this (horrible) portfolio done. as I’ve only got 2 weeks left. This video help me with a gas hob install I done a few months back to put into my portfolio. Thank you
Harry Jones make sure you have your training books with you and your analyser is calibrated and don’t forget your non contact voltage indicator and all your pads , warnings notice and labels etc. The inspector will want to see you do a tightness test purge and commission a boiler. Good luck mate and make sure you have plenty of biscuits in 😂😂😂 thanks for watching and let me know how you go on 👍🏻
good posts. I'm watching your videos from Istanbul. I'm dealing with stove repairs. You are very successful at your job. I'm waiting for your videos about the stoves. Respects
thanks tom cat looks good and thanks for teaching us and making those gas safe videos. Shouldn't that 6mm power cable be clamped to the wall 25mm away from the hob gas pipe and valve? Also what was the gas rate, working pressure, heat input and het output net please?
You can use a jig saw with a cutting blade at the point of first cutting the worktop from new. First measure the hob all the way round, ensure that it is square. Using a wood drill bit wide enough for the jigsaw blade at each corner to start your cut. The saw that you are using is correct, since this is now used to create a larger cut to install a larger hob than the original hob. Always use a jigsaw when making the first cut out, since you have more control. Never use the saw to make the first cut!
Spoke to Gas Safe today regarding gas hobs and was informed that a test point is also now required on hobs, luckily Screwfix do a gas tap with a built in test point, unfortunately 15mm only.
You can buy test adapters that fit onto the gas connectors or were the hose fits onto a cooker but you can also buy injector extended test points so they don’t just need to be on the isolation valve.
You should have actually moved the hob to the front edge with the bigger stoves being at the back the wall can/will take damage. I personally dont recommend going for hobs with biggest stoves at the back end.
Why releasing gas in the air. My gas teacher instructed me to light the burners then shut off the isolation valve under the hob and wait for the click, then reopen the gas at isolation and check for no gas flow safely. The taps will be open without leaking if all good. We can also do it with tightness test if we leave the gauge on the meter test screw after the first tightness test so we do not have to smell or hear the gas ourselves when we reopen the isolation valve under the hob. Also spraying an injector can be an option. For this kind of hob it easily reachable.
What if you have no isolation valve on the hob and what if it’s a cooker with a hose. There are different ways of testing thermoelectric devices and I prefer to simulate real life under full control of the test.
@@tomkatgastraining thanks for the prompt reply. You still have ECV just in case you are missimg the isolation valve. But I would add a valve for a few quids before replacing the hob. Makes more sense to me
Had a debate with someone the other day when you are doing an annual safety/landlords on this would taking a burner pressure from the injector with the other three on be the correct way to do your burner pressure as opposed to heat input. (Likely you would gas rate as these cookers are usually caked in grease)
When doing the pressure you turn the burner on the opposite corner to take the correct pressure not turn on all the others. I don’t see the need to do it if your gas rate is correct and the flame picture is ok
Derek, where are your protective gloves when using the power tool? Gloves that have rubber coating help grip the tool and prevent it from slipping out of your hands; as during work your hands sweat, and can cause slipping and possibly a dangerous accident. Only saying....
I have never wore gloves in my hole working life I find them very restrictive. Don’t get me wrong gloves can help keep your hands like a baby’s bottom but I don’t think they help me in any way. My wife likes my very course hands only saying 🤣. Anyway thanks for your concerns but at nearly 54 years old I don’t think I will start now 😜👍🏻
Hi Tomkat, Can you use a flexible hose like CSST if there is no oven below the hob, and there is no drawers coming into contact with the pipe or fittings?, Unsure whether the cooker hose argument includes these metal flex hoses or just rubber hoses.
Hi Derek what fitting did you use to connect the hob to the pipework. Last time I took asc at local independent training centre they said you can't use compression female iron. Ard they right I've always used them
Antony Buckley it’s one of those situations where you will get half of the engineers saying you can and half saying no. The regs say compression fittings can only be used in accessible locations I say under a hob is accessible and you as an engineer have a good idea that the hob is connected with a female or male iron to copper. As long as the fitting has a taper thread and you use the correct jointing compound there is nothing wrong in my eyes but plenty will disagree. I have looked in all the regs about it and the manufacturers instructions and all say appropriate fitting. At the end of the day the hob connection is a compression fitting thanks for watching sorry I didn’t give you a definitive answer but I don’t think there is one it’s like can a hob be fed with a cooker hose. Cheers 👍🏻
I'm assuming you turned the isolation key before loosening the bolts mate? I didn't see that mentioned in the video. I need to change a worktop in my own kitchen and the gas hob needs taken out which means disconnecting the gas pipe. Is this easy enough done?
@TomKatgastraining did you solder the copper pipe out of situ or soldered it once you had it in place altogether. Could you pls do another video of installing gas hobs? Thanks
@@tomkatgastraining underneath the workable where the underside of the hob is. How did you manage to not leave any burn marks? Did you use a rotherberg blow torch having it on a small flame and a heat shield or matt?
hob is way too far back for my tastes. The front part of the hob is just the dials, no flame. so there's no need to have it set back so much. With that hob and the burners built so far back on the hob anyway. People using the kitchen will have a tough time with it.
I’ve just had an installer reject fitting my new hob as there was not 5cm space behind the hob to the wall. To be honest it looks like this one is less than 5cm too. Does that distance of 5cm vary from hob to hob?
Ibrahim Ali why would you do that on a cooker you can hear the gas turn off I think you are getting the test on a multifunction control valve and you don’t do a tightness test after that . Thanks for your comment and watching cheers
@@tomkatgastraining Aprreciate the response Tomkat, looking forward to more videos from you. If I can suggest futures ones - 1) electrics for boilers 2) fault finding 3) in depth info on controls 4) individual parts like diverter valves/ pumps etc.
Not sure how that can be allowed to be signed off if the manufacturer says 50mm clearance at the wall and you provide 45mm surely thats an incorrect installation and cannot be signed off.
Is there a new requirement to install a separate gas test point at a new appliance that doesn't have one as part of the appliance? Does this apply to gas hobs?
So as the MI'S instructions for clearances were not met, does that mean it would be NCS straight away and does that leave the installer open to prosecution should anything bad happen or is it a case that you recorded on the invoice that you have told the customer what to do and now it their responsibility should anything bad happen?
Paweł L who ever you get to install your new boiler will be the guy to tell you which would be the best boiler for your property. Thanks for watching cheers
Hi wonder if you could help me. I am about to replace my gas hob similar connection to the one you showed in the video, with an electric induction hob. What I want to know is, will it be safe to disconnect the gas pipe at shut off valve and just leave it like that. Tia
I have a question, I have both a gas hob and a gas oven. But my gas outlet only has one exit. Do I need to fit in a three-way valve? Or? I would appreciate if you reply
Hi. I am trying to install our new cooktop but while it fits the space when the regulator is unattached, once I attach the regulator it does not fit. Can I install the regulator just after the cooktop shut off valve and will it still work safely and effectively? It couldn't be more than 5-6 feet additional distance for the gas to travel through the flex hose.
So the aluminium elbow on the hob use the tapered elbow as some hobs come with 2 a parallel and tapered elbow then screw a normal brass female compression iron that has parallel thread.
I like all ur videos I’m a gas engineer too , but I don’t like the background music, great video ur voice and how you explain all good but I think U don’t need background music
When he removed the connecting pipe to the old hob the isolation valve seemed to be open. Couldn’t have been surely but it looked like the handle was aligned with the pipe.
@@tomkatgastraining That wasn’t evident from the video, but good to know that my eyes were not deceiving me. Had I been carrying out that job as a GasSafe certified technician I would have closed the isolation valve to minimise the risk of air diffusing back along the supply pipe upstream of the isolation valve and because it is the sensible thing to do. Also note that the latest revision of BS 6172 is BS 6172:2010
Hi Ya. We need to replace our old hob but it's pretty big (74cm w x 52cm d approx), how would we get a hob fitted that isn't quite big enough for the space? Cheers
Hi. Just wanted to ask as i am doing my onsite training. Im getting different info regarding heat input rating in kw net or kw gross. For example on some appliance databadges or mi's it sometimes doesn't clearly indicate if heat input is in kw net or kw gross. Would appreciate if u get back to me.
If the appliance is older than the year 2000 it will be in gross kw after 2000 it will be net. That’s always a good indication but if it doesn’t say gross assume it’s net. Hope that helps
The terminology is different between English speaking countries, here in the US they are called gas fitters, in the UK they are called gas engineers. Just like we call them train engineers here, they call them train drivers.
I'd still say that gas cock is readily accessible. Some would argue not, 🤷♂️. The logic book I have in the van make sure the fsd goes off within 90 seconds for a hotplate. Has it changed to 60 seconds ? I was always told to turn the gas off at the meter, remove the flexi gas, pipe or turn off at the meter itself in the centre. In the real world we blow the burners off at low flame and time it. In this one mi supersedes all right
All thermoelectric should shut down within 60 seconds but if the hob MIs say 90 then we go off that . As for turning the gas off at the meter why would you do that as you would have to purge the gas again . Thanks for your comment and watching cheers
Turning off at the cooker isolation valve is acceptable. I was told that it could be turned off at the meter, in the centre. Maybe the meter was in close proximity. 60 seconds drop out is pretty much a set standard for Mi's that's what I tend to go with, thanks for the clarification Derek. Sometimes it's worth just listening to your instructor, no arguments 😊. For my next renewals I'll be heading on over to your centre. (Less then 3 years)
I need some help. I have measured my current hob. Its 60cm X 50 CM. Buying a replacement hob, I chose 60cm x 50 cm, but all the hobs listed are H4.5 x W56 x D49cm Can you help?
@@tomkatgastraining when you turn the tap on and click the igniter creating the flame thermocouple opens gas then stays on when you turn the tap off after a few second thermocouple closes and shuts off gas to valve with a click all your doing it blowing it out instead of turning the dial down when I do it that way you turn the dial to the off position when it clicks it won’t turn back on unless you push it down all your doing is wasting your own breath and making your self dizzy
@@pauls826 but is it passing and I am simulating a real scenario. Anyway you do what you think is best and I will continue to train my trainees so they understand how safety devices work and to make engineers judgement.
@@tomkatgastraining yourll know if it’s passing when you try to turn the knob and it doesn’t move because the gas valves closed try it tomorrow in the centre you will know what I mean I’m not having a stab at your training your videos are good all I’m saying is you’ve no need to blow them out putting your face near flames when you can just turn the knobs off wait for the clicks and try to turn them on again without pressing them down it’s simple
@@pauls826 we have 2 cookers at the centre that have thermoelectric devices that stick you turn the gas off with the control knob it turns off the gas and you hear the thermoelectric click so you think it’s worked you then blow out the flame with the gas still on and you hear the click but the gas still comes out. You don’t need to tell me how to do my job because I have been at it a long time. Like I said you do your tests and I will do mine at the end of the day both tests are in the training manuals
I understand that this video is tutorial, but you should have explained that if you are changing an old unit for a like for like new one (exception being the sixe of the opening) there is no need to do all that pressure test, unless it is to highlight a leak. So, for tutotrial purposes, it's OK but the change over of a gas hob is not rocket sience nor do you need a diploma from any organization, it's pure and simple common sense. The government made the rulling to stop any old cowboy that think's they can mess with the gas fitting and test for leaks with a naked flame, As the British Gas engineer did when I reported a possible gas leak, when I was living in a rented property, back in 1976 🤔
This video is misnamed. It is not about the installation of a gas hob but about the replacement of an existing gas hob. Therefore it gives no information about how to actually install a gas hob, making the connections according to gas regulations and so on. Anyone who requires a video to show them how to disconnect and then reconnect simple screwed connections should not be attempting such a task.
I am a trained teacher and this is an excellent video. Congratulations to all concerned on the clarity and high standard of information and presentation. Well done!
Brian O'Connell thanks for your comment and watching cheers
He is very professional. Hands on and very clear!
Great video as usual, when fitting a hob I like to remove the hob, fit the oven or whatever is going beneath then mark on the sides of the cupboard the room/void behind the oven, then remove the oven and refit the hob, now knowing what access we have for pipework.
Excellent video and walk-through. But I would have asked for the hob to sit more forward. With the bigger hobs at the back, you'd expect to use bigger pots, which cannot sit evenly with this setup
Smashing video. You took it step by step which I found VERY useful. Now I actually know why you should turn the hot tap on and check the flame picture of the burners. Don’t think I’ll ever forget that.. Thanks Derek 👍🏻
Asian Jon. Training.
Tesla hob flex is a pretty good bit of kit and a real time saver.
Agree
Hi I really love all your videos they're very helpful and educational.
I would like to ask you if it's possible please turn the music down or make it without music because it's very distracting .Many thanks looking forward to watching your new videos
Great video really appreciate your time you’ve put into all your videos. I’m currently on week 4 of my gas training and had a lil kick up my ass to get this (horrible) portfolio done. as I’ve only got 2 weeks left. This video help me with a gas hob install I done a few months back to put into my portfolio. Thank you
Nice vid, just what I needed. Got my first Gas Safe Inspector visit tomorrow and sh*thing bricks...
Harry Jones make sure you have your training books with you and your analyser is calibrated and don’t forget your non contact voltage indicator and all your pads , warnings notice and labels etc. The inspector will want to see you do a tightness test purge and commission a boiler. Good luck mate and make sure you have plenty of biscuits in 😂😂😂 thanks for watching and let me know how you go on 👍🏻
@@tomkatgastraining Thanks Derrick, passed the inspection! Glad you reminded me about having the labels and warning pads ready!.
@Stephen Banbury Cheers Stephen, I got asked about the Dfe and remembered the answer thanks to you!
good posts. I'm watching your videos from Istanbul. I'm dealing with stove repairs. You are very successful at your job. I'm waiting for your videos about the stoves. Respects
Excellent video Derek. Great knowledge.. 👍😁
Tomkat gas trainee.
Jon-Paul Ward
Another great and informative video Derek! 👍
Keeping it real. Thanks, Derek!
I was waiting for him to saw through the electric cable at 3:31. That big hob at the back looks a bit close to that cupboard to me.
Sorry to disappoint you and you must have amazing eyes to be able to judge distance on a video
thanks tom cat looks good and thanks for teaching us and making those gas safe videos. Shouldn't that 6mm power cable be clamped to the wall 25mm away from the hob gas pipe and valve? Also what was the gas rate, working pressure, heat input and het output net please?
The man putting in mine has been here over 3 hours 😮
Thumbs up lads 👍 fab informative video
Thanks
Very informative video, thanks Derek👍👍👍
You can use a jig saw with a cutting blade at the point of first cutting the worktop from new. First measure the hob all the way round, ensure that it is square. Using a wood drill bit wide enough for the jigsaw blade at each corner to start your cut. The saw that you are using is correct, since this is now used to create a larger cut to install a larger hob than the original hob. Always use a jigsaw when making the first cut out, since you have more control. Never use the saw to make the first cut!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This is the wrong type of hob for the installation, the Wok burner is so close to the wall, it does not have any space to fit a wok
Absolutely wrong
Great content .....nice one Derek.
Great video. Love this, I need to go for training, 👍
Amazing video 👏
Great job Derek
Spoke to Gas Safe today regarding gas hobs and was informed that a test point is also now required on hobs, luckily Screwfix do a gas tap with a built in test point, unfortunately 15mm only.
You can buy test adapters that fit onto the gas connectors or were the hose fits onto a cooker but you can also buy injector extended test points so they don’t just need to be on the isolation valve.
@@tomkatgastraining 👍
Great video :) Thanks Derek!
For the edges on the worktop how would you normally seal hob to work top?
You should have actually moved the hob to the front edge with the bigger stoves being at the back the wall can/will take damage. I personally dont recommend going for hobs with biggest stoves at the back end.
Great music video. Couldn't hear the lyrics, though, but I'm sure they were great.
Why releasing gas in the air. My gas teacher instructed me to light the burners then shut off the isolation valve under the hob and wait for the click, then reopen the gas at isolation and check for no gas flow safely. The taps will be open without leaking if all good. We can also do it with tightness test if we leave the gauge on the meter test screw after the first tightness test so we do not have to smell or hear the gas ourselves when we reopen the isolation valve under the hob. Also spraying an injector can be an option. For this kind of hob it easily reachable.
What if you have no isolation valve on the hob and what if it’s a cooker with a hose. There are different ways of testing thermoelectric devices and I prefer to simulate real life under full control of the test.
@@tomkatgastraining thanks for the prompt reply. You still have ECV just in case you are missimg the isolation valve. But I would add a valve for a few quids before replacing the hob. Makes more sense to me
@@antoniogalluccio4213 and your way makes no sense to me and thats called difference of opinion.
Great Video
How we should consider the installation if the clearances are not respected?
Thanks
Top vid Derek just watched 👍
Nice work 👍👍
Great
Demo would it not be a good idea to measure the ope in the worktop and then buy a hob that would fit in so no cutting required
Thank you
Great video, how do you Stick Form sticker tape What I mean is which side is goes on the worktop And which side goes cooker?
This is a very informative video I'm just wondering how much would this cost roughly to have done as I need similar work carried out
How many burners were on whilst doing a gas rate?
Had a debate with someone the other day when you are doing an annual safety/landlords on this would taking a burner pressure from the injector with the other three on be the correct way to do your burner pressure as opposed to heat input. (Likely you would gas rate as these cookers are usually caked in grease)
When doing the pressure you turn the burner on the opposite corner to take the correct pressure not turn on all the others. I don’t see the need to do it if your gas rate is correct and the flame picture is ok
Derek, where are your protective gloves when using the power tool? Gloves that have rubber coating help grip the tool and prevent it from slipping out of your hands; as during work your hands sweat, and can cause slipping and possibly a dangerous accident. Only saying....
I have never wore gloves in my hole working life I find them very restrictive. Don’t get me wrong gloves can help keep your hands like a baby’s bottom but I don’t think they help me in any way. My wife likes my very course hands only saying 🤣. Anyway thanks for your concerns but at nearly 54 years old I don’t think I will start now 😜👍🏻
Gloves will pull your fingers into the blade, and will inhibit modern safety systems built into modern tools!
Hi Tomkat,
Can you use a flexible hose like CSST if there is no oven below the hob, and there is no drawers coming into contact with the pipe or fittings?, Unsure whether the cooker hose argument includes these metal flex hoses or just rubber hoses.
Thanks for the video
Hi Derek what fitting did you use to connect the hob to the pipework. Last time I took asc at local independent training centre they said you can't use compression female iron. Ard they right I've always used them
Antony Buckley it’s one of those situations where you will get half of the engineers saying you can and half saying no. The regs say compression fittings can only be used in accessible locations I say under a hob is accessible and you as an engineer have a good idea that the hob is connected with a female or male iron to copper. As long as the fitting has a taper thread and you use the correct jointing compound there is nothing wrong in my eyes but plenty will disagree. I have looked in all the regs about it and the manufacturers instructions and all say appropriate fitting. At the end of the day the hob connection is a compression fitting thanks for watching sorry I didn’t give you a definitive answer but I don’t think there is one it’s like can a hob be fed with a cooker hose. Cheers 👍🏻
Good video. Is it ok to have the gas pipe for the hob connecting to the 22mm gas pipe at the bottom of the boiler
Hi, is that a 15mm x 1/2 female fitting you have used to connect the hob?
Anyone know what height a cooker hood has to be from a gas hob. I assume it's from the pan supports highest point of reference.
What silicone would you use to bridge the gap from worktop to tiles. I'm talking about the line behind the hob
Hi
Not much tutorial going on.
Mostly we done this then done that ?
I'm assuming you turned the isolation key before loosening the bolts mate? I didn't see that mentioned in the video. I need to change a worktop in my own kitchen and the gas hob needs taken out which means disconnecting the gas pipe. Is this easy enough done?
What are the correct washers to use for a gas hob cooker, fibre or rubber?
Them wall units are are too close to the hob and hood..
good video
@TomKatgastraining did you solder the copper pipe out of situ or soldered it once you had it in place altogether. Could you pls do another video of installing gas hobs? Thanks
mohan abdul I soldered it in place. Why do you want me to do another video on the same thing ?
@@tomkatgastraining underneath the workable where the underside of the hob is. How did you manage to not leave any burn marks? Did you use a rotherberg blow torch having it on a small flame and a heat shield or matt?
hob is way too far back for my tastes. The front part of the hob is just the dials, no flame. so there's no need to have it set back so much. With that hob and the burners built so far back on the hob anyway. People using the kitchen will have a tough time with it.
My wife would have divorced me for just this
I’ve just had an installer reject fitting my new hob as there was not 5cm space behind the hob to the wall. To be honest it looks like this one is less than 5cm too. Does that distance of 5cm vary from hob to hob?
Did you do tightness test after blowing out flames to make sure valves weren't passing? It wasn't on camera.
Ibrahim Ali why would you do that on a cooker you can hear the gas turn off I think you are getting the test on a multifunction control valve and you don’t do a tightness test after that . Thanks for your comment and watching cheers
@@tomkatgastraining Aprreciate the response Tomkat, looking forward to more videos from you.
If I can suggest futures ones - 1) electrics for boilers 2) fault finding 3) in depth info on controls 4) individual parts like diverter valves/ pumps etc.
Not sure how that can be allowed to be signed off if the manufacturer says 50mm clearance at the wall and you provide 45mm surely thats an incorrect installation and cannot be signed off.
How much for that job in Sussex area? I need this exact thing done. Need to know what sort of money I’d need to pay. Thanks!
Is there a new requirement to install a separate gas test point at a new appliance that doesn't have one as part of the appliance? Does this apply to gas hobs?
Martin Wright this hob was installed last summer I had forgotten about it but yes a new regulation is coming in along with some other big changes soon
So as the MI'S instructions for clearances were not met, does that mean it would be NCS straight away and does that leave the installer open to prosecution should anything bad happen or is it a case that you recorded on the invoice that you have told the customer what to do and now it their responsibility should anything bad happen?
What about the microwave in the former serving Hatch ? Too many misdemeanours to dwell on one
Hi Darek,
My combi boiler just broke down and need replacing. Which boiler you will recommend. At the moment i have Isar HE24.
Thanks
Paweł L who ever you get to install your new boiler will be the guy to tell you which would be the best boiler for your property. Thanks for watching cheers
There some yellow in them flames I thought they had to be crisp blue
Video was very interesting. The music in the background is very irritating!
Can I exchange my old Gas hob for another one used from eBay on my own? Or I need to take expert?
Hi wonder if you could help me.
I am about to replace my gas hob similar connection to the one you showed in the video, with an electric induction hob. What I want to know is, will it be safe to disconnect the gas pipe at shut off valve and just leave it like that. Tia
Sorry no you must get a competent gas safe registered engineer to disconnect it for you
"can't tell if I'm shouting or not" Derrick, you always shout mate
Camilo Alcapia
I have a question, I have both a gas hob and a gas oven. But my gas outlet only has one exit. Do I need to fit in a three-way valve? Or?
I would appreciate if you reply
No you need to get a gas engineer to do it for you
Don't you have to carry out burner pressure on domestic appliances?
We follow regulation 26 (9) of the gas safety installation and use regulations
Hi. I am trying to install our new cooktop but while it fits the space when the regulator is unattached, once I attach the regulator it does not fit. Can I install the regulator just after the cooktop shut off valve and will it still work safely and effectively? It couldn't be more than 5-6 feet additional distance for the gas to travel through the flex hose.
If I was you I would get a professional in. It sounds like you are not in the U.K. with what you have written.
Thanks
Is that the correct connection from pipework to hob looks like a water fitting?
Peter sutton it has a tapered thread
I'm a Nigerian. How can i get trained by your company online and get certificate
Sorry we don’t offer that kind a service
standing pressure is supposed to be 21-30mb??
Sorry mate who trained you 🙄
Derk is the female brass iron onto the gas hob elbow sealed with a fibre washer on flat face or is it taper thread seal
Antony Buckley depends on the manufacturer of the hob and the type of the gas connection but the male iron must be tapered 👍🏻
So the aluminium elbow on the hob use the tapered elbow as some hobs come with 2 a parallel and tapered elbow then screw a normal brass female compression iron that has parallel thread.
PLEASE DESCRIBE TH AFLAME SHAP AND COLLOR
I like all ur videos I’m a gas engineer too , but I don’t like the background music, great video ur voice and how you explain all good but I think U don’t need background music
I agree .. thought it was very jingly jangle.. distracting
Probably showing my age
When he removed the connecting pipe to the old hob the isolation valve seemed to be open. Couldn’t have been surely but it looked like the handle was aligned with the pipe.
The gas was turned off at the gas meter 🤔
@@tomkatgastraining That wasn’t evident from the video, but good to know that my eyes were not deceiving me. Had I been carrying out that job as a GasSafe certified technician I would have closed the isolation valve to minimise the risk of air diffusing back along the supply pipe upstream of the isolation valve and because it is the sensible thing to do.
Also note that the latest revision of BS 6172 is BS 6172:2010
@@tsb3093 what about removing the meter 😜
@@tomkatgastrainingclearly not relevant
@@tsb3093 clearly is
Is there any certification required for the commissioning?
Any gas work carried out requires paperwork
Dave Thompson.
Hi Ya. We need to replace our old hob but it's pretty big (74cm w x 52cm d approx), how would we get a hob fitted that isn't quite big enough for the space? Cheers
You would need a new worktop if the hole was too big for the hob
@@tomkatgastraining thanks for replying.
Hi. Just wanted to ask as i am doing my onsite training. Im getting different info regarding heat input rating in kw net or kw gross. For example on some appliance databadges or mi's it sometimes doesn't clearly indicate if heat input is in kw net or kw gross. Would appreciate if u get back to me.
If the appliance is older than the year 2000 it will be in gross kw after 2000 it will be net. That’s always a good indication but if it doesn’t say gross assume it’s net. Hope that helps
@@tomkatgastraining cheers.
Does this need a regulator in the feed pipe?
There is a regulator at the gas meter it’s fed with natural gas are you thinking of lpg
Hi Derek,
How do you gas rate a gas hob?
Thank you.
Put the rings on one at a time
I think you mean a gas fitter as there are no engineering qualifications needed for this type of work?
The terminology is different between English speaking countries, here in the US they are called gas fitters, in the UK they are called gas engineers. Just like we call them train engineers here, they call them train drivers.
What did you charge for that
I'd still say that gas cock is readily accessible. Some would argue not, 🤷♂️. The logic book I have in the van make sure the fsd goes off within 90 seconds for a hotplate. Has it changed to 60 seconds ? I was always told to turn the gas off at the meter, remove the flexi gas, pipe or turn off at the meter itself in the centre. In the real world we blow the burners off at low flame and time it. In this one mi supersedes all right
All thermoelectric should shut down within 60 seconds but if the hob MIs say 90 then we go off that . As for turning the gas off at the meter why would you do that as you would have to purge the gas again . Thanks for your comment and watching cheers
Turning off at the cooker isolation valve is acceptable. I was told that it could be turned off at the meter, in the centre. Maybe the meter was in close proximity. 60 seconds drop out is pretty much a set standard for Mi's that's what I tend to go with, thanks for the clarification Derek. Sometimes it's worth just listening to your instructor, no arguments 😊. For my next renewals I'll be heading on over to your centre. (Less then 3 years)
copper all the way to a hob . no question.
Can I just ask why you didn't need to leave a 55mm space between the hob and the wall? Thanks.
You can ask
Great video. But please can you remove the music? :-)
Thomas Bradwell
I need some help.
I have measured my current hob.
Its 60cm X 50 CM.
Buying a replacement hob, I chose 60cm x 50 cm, but all the hobs listed are
H4.5 x W56 x D49cm
Can you help?
New worktop or the right size hob
Hi, should you (silicone) sealant around the hob afterwards?
No the hob comes with a seal
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Chris taylor
😂what you blowing them out for just turn the taps off and wait for a clunking I always wack boiler on then do working pressure with hob and boiler on
Because turning the tap off is testing the control tap not the thermoelectric
@@tomkatgastraining when you turn the tap on and click the igniter creating the flame thermocouple opens gas then stays on when you turn the tap off after a few second thermocouple closes and shuts off gas to valve with a click all your doing it blowing it out instead of turning the dial down when I do it that way you turn the dial to the off position when it clicks it won’t turn back on unless you push it down all your doing is wasting your own breath and making your self dizzy
@@pauls826 but is it passing and I am simulating a real scenario. Anyway you do what you think is best and I will continue to train my trainees so they understand how safety devices work and to make engineers judgement.
@@tomkatgastraining yourll know if it’s passing when you try to turn the knob and it doesn’t move because the gas valves closed try it tomorrow in the centre you will know what I mean I’m not having a stab at your training your videos are good all I’m saying is you’ve no need to blow them out putting your face near flames when you can just turn the knobs off wait for the clicks and try to turn them on again without pressing them down it’s simple
@@pauls826 we have 2 cookers at the centre that have thermoelectric devices that stick you turn the gas off with the control knob it turns off the gas and you hear the thermoelectric click so you think it’s worked you then blow out the flame with the gas still on and you hear the click but the gas still comes out. You don’t need to tell me how to do my job because I have been at it a long time. Like I said you do your tests and I will do mine at the end of the day both tests are in the training manuals
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Ha! an electrician to wire a hob, this isn't a pop at you by any means but jesus is this what the regs etc have come too.
The electrician was one of my trainees so it was a bit of a joke 🙄
craig h
I understand that this video is tutorial, but you should have explained that if you are changing an old unit for a like for like new one (exception being the sixe of the opening) there is no need to do all that pressure test, unless it is to highlight a leak. So, for tutotrial purposes, it's OK but the change over of a gas hob is not rocket sience nor do you need a diploma from any organization, it's pure and simple common sense.
The government made the rulling to stop any old cowboy that think's they can mess with the gas fitting and test for leaks with a naked flame, As the British Gas engineer did when I reported a possible gas leak, when I was living in a rented property, back in 1976 🤔
This video is misnamed. It is not about the installation of a gas hob but about the replacement of an existing gas hob. Therefore it gives no information about how to actually install a gas hob, making the connections according to gas regulations and so on. Anyone who requires a video to show them how to disconnect and then reconnect simple screwed connections should not be attempting such a task.
Irritating music😡