First time here very professional. Like watching a surgeon work keep up the great work. It’s nice to see this in our industry. We need a lot more professionals like you so we can weed out the hacks. This has always been my biggest problem with this industry is slowly but surely we’re moving forward. I’m a Master ASE fleet technician we deal with local dealers great some bad. Glad I found this channel. Love learning about all makes and models.
I recently put a new head on my first 1.6 Ecoboost. Every single thing is special service tool this and special procedure that. It took me like 3 hours just to measure and adjust valve lash 🤣 The engine I did had the intake cam phaser randomly shift and bent the intake valves. Engine had never been worked on and only had like 70K on the clock. Weird. Great video!
Would be nice if Ford put roodruff keys on crank & cams but must be cheaper to manufacture. Your engine probably had it's cam bolts torqued late on a Friday at Ford.
I have a 2017 Ford Fusion SE. I told I was given a new motor. When I picked up the car and drove about 8 hours. The check engine light came on. I took it back and I was told it needs a Crankcase pressure sensor. Can you give me any advice on what to do. I feel like I am being taken for a ride. Rhonda
Hi Rhonda. Your fusion probably had tsb 20-2100 done which has the short block replaced. Have a video of that service on the channel. If you can have them give you the codes it's setting then let me know. Can enter them into Fords database and get back to you.
Got a 1.5L ecoboost also. Just had my engine replaced. But the thing is misfiring at idle only. No check engine light or anything. Could this be a timing issue also?
I would think if it was a timing issue it would misfire all the time and have cam/crank correlation codes. Get it scanned and run misfire monitor to see if it's just on one cylinder. Ford want misfire profile relearn done with a scan tool after engine install so make sure that was performed also.
@raincitywrench117 Turns out that the tech that replaced the engine thinks it's in the cylinder heads. Since a reman engine block & cylinder head was put in, he believes the cylinder head valve clearances weren't set right and also it wasn't shimmed properly. They're going to try to get my car running today. Does that sound more familiar to you at all?
I thought all of the seals comes with the block when you take the car to the dealership and the block is replaced? Basically all of the seals come already attached to the replacement block. When i had my 1.5 done ford replaced my engine my alternator and belts were even replaced.
The 1.5 short block comes only with the crankshaft and pistons. Everything else has to be transferred or replaced like oil pan, timing cover, cylinder head, front and rear seals, etc. Maybe you got a long block installed? I think they come complete
Looks like you are there. Here is what the normal maintenance schedule says: Every 150000 mi (240,000 km) Change automatic transmission fluid. Replace accessory drive belt(s).4 Replace timing belt (1.5L engine).
I have a 15 Fusion with the 1.5l at the Ford dealer in Everett. They replaced the engine 2.5 years ago, it has 6 months left on the warranty. Last week the heater wasn’t working and I found the dgas dry… here we go again! I’m worried they’re going to jerk me around. Do you have any suggestions?
I would install a cooling system pressure tester on the degas bottle for a few hours and see where the leak develops. It may have an external leak like a hose clamp, water pump, etc. If you don't find an external leak then pull the spark plugs and look down inside to see if coolant is puddling up on a piston. The oil cooler can leak internal and mix with the oil. Visually inspect the oil on the dipstick for signs of water in the oil. Also, pull the oil cap and inspect inside for condensation, water in oil, milky sludge, etc.
Yes sir 🙂 www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Compatible-Ecoboost-303-1097-303-1550/dp/B07TCMF9TH/ref=asc_df_B07TCMF9TH/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366306749487&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7892900741923834910&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-1004293265272&ref=&adgrpid=75066162654&th=1
I just rebuild a 1.5 Ecoboost with the new block and I did the timing like you with the tools still in the camshafts when tighting the bolts. But when I started the engine, it ran very rough. So I checked the timing again und saw that the intake cam was little off so that the VCT tool doesnt fit. Do you have an idea how this can happen? I just hope that there is no further damage to the engine. Greetings from Germany
Doesn't make any sense the cam would be off if the bolts were tightened with the tools in place. Did you also check the crankshaft pulley alignment with it on it's stop to make sure the tool engages with the slot? I would try setting everything back up and tightening all the bolts but before you install the valve cover, remove all the tools. Rotate the crankshaft over by hand a few times. Reinstall the crank stop pin and rotate crankshaft over until it stops then reinstall all the tools to make sure they slide in and everything is lined up. If it looks good then wrap it up. Good Luck!
@@raincitywrench117 I still dont know what the problem was, but I set the timing right again and tightened the bolts again and now it runs completely normal.
What position would you say your cam notches are in when correctly timed? Just purchased a car with timing issues Looking at mine it appears like they're in the 1 o'clock exhaust an 12 intake
Would post a snip but can't. Looks like they may both be @ 12:00 but in workshop they are partially covered with 303-1097 tool. I don't use the marks, if the tool slides in then it's aligned. This is quite the setup and can easily be screwed up. The crank can be off or each individual cam off even with the 303-1097 tool installed. I would get a cheap alignment set, pull the front cover and valve cover and start from scratch making sure to be thorough. Here are the directions if the link works: f01.justanswer.com/dcraig1000/4b59f200-a8bf-42ee-a027-7c2ddd2aefae_eee.pdf Think this is the set I bought: www.amazon.com/BELEY-Engine-Flywheel-Locking-Camshaft/dp/B07WXP6DMB/ref=asc_df_B07WXP6DMB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366306749487&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13466324808269377668&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033354&hvtargid=pla-817825322049&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=75066162654&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366306749487&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13466324808269377668&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033354&hvtargid=pla-817825322049
@@jessegray4819 That's a fuel rail pressure too low code. I would remove the high pressure fuel pump and make sure the drive tappet isn't messed up along with the camshaft lobe. Also make sure one of the fuses didn't blow that powers the low pressure pump.
The rod has a hook on the bottom. I hooked it on the front aluminum casting in the spark plug valley. You can see it pretty good at the 5:00 min mark. That hook arm comes with my transverse support fixture. www.toolsource.com/misc-c-318/700-lb-engine-support-bar-p-161847.html
I have yet to see heavy carbon buildup issues on these engines like the european models and a catch can will have no affect on the cylinder head gasket. Do you have it already installed?
@@raincitywrench117 yes I have a jlt catch can for carbon build up. I was wondering about a valve cover breather for pressure build up because these engines are known to have leaking head gasket.
@@garofalo1707 Ok, I understand. The JLT will definitely help keep the valves clean. As for the breather I can't say what affect on the head gasket it will have. If your 1.5L has the updated short block then you won't have a problem with it. Here is what the updated block looks like: minutes 14:00-14:17 ruclips.net/video/vVCyzQ249CE/видео.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench Haven't done one of these jobs in over a year.
@@grandmark47 Think those are iridium plugs which last a LONG time but that's when I like to replace them. It should say when Ford recommends in the service specifications pages of the owners manual.
What a clean and organized shop. Great work.
First time here very professional. Like watching a surgeon work keep up the great work. It’s nice to see this in our industry. We need a lot more professionals like you so we can weed out the hacks. This has always been my biggest problem with this industry is slowly but surely we’re moving forward. I’m a Master ASE fleet technician we deal with local dealers great some bad. Glad I found this channel. Love learning about all makes and models.
Thanks for watching and the comment!
Very clean, precise and delicate job!brilliant!!!
Learned a lot just by watching! Timing an engine is different than it use to be.
Ford definitely made it more complicated then it needed to be for sure.
Ford man they are notorious
Excellent explanations and craftsmanship. Hope you keep making videos to share your knowledge. Thank you.
Thank you very much!
I recently put a new head on my first 1.6 Ecoboost. Every single thing is special service tool this and special procedure that. It took me like 3 hours just to measure and adjust valve lash 🤣 The engine I did had the intake cam phaser randomly shift and bent the intake valves. Engine had never been worked on and only had like 70K on the clock. Weird. Great video!
Would be nice if Ford put roodruff keys on crank & cams but must be cheaper to manufacture. Your engine probably had it's cam bolts torqued late on a Friday at Ford.
Yeah these engines are garbage all just because ford wanted to save a few pennies per engine
@@cheesecurd100s And Rotunda gets to manufacture and sell more tools. LOL
Nice wrench extender out there man 6:05 . Great tool. Really help
Used it today loosening some tie rod adjuster nuts. Have the larger one also. Handy tools indeed.
Thanks for posting this video! Super helpful
You're welcome!
Good job takes proper tools I see.
Great work.
Hi, I would like to know witch chain wranch did you use in this video,thanks
Think this is the one I have:www.mactools.com/products/fe6a26c9-c7c8-4fab-ad03-a4aa010d570d
hell ya cool
I have a 2017 Ford Fusion SE. I told I was given a new motor. When I picked up the car and drove about 8 hours. The check engine light came on. I took it back and I was told it needs a Crankcase pressure sensor. Can you give me any advice on what to do. I feel like I am being taken for a ride.
Rhonda
Hi Rhonda. Your fusion probably had tsb 20-2100 done which has the short block replaced. Have a video of that service on the channel. If you can have them give you the codes it's setting then let me know. Can enter them into Fords database and get back to you.
@@raincitywrench117 thank you!🙏😊 I will definitely find that out and get back to you.
Hello. Please tell me when to replace the engine belt
Got a 1.5L ecoboost also. Just had my engine replaced. But the thing is misfiring at idle only. No check engine light or anything. Could this be a timing issue also?
I would think if it was a timing issue it would misfire all the time and have cam/crank correlation codes. Get it scanned and run misfire monitor to see if it's just on one cylinder. Ford want misfire profile relearn done with a scan tool after engine install so make sure that was performed also.
@raincitywrench117 Turns out that the tech that replaced the engine thinks it's in the cylinder heads. Since a reman engine block & cylinder head was put in, he believes the cylinder head valve clearances weren't set right and also it wasn't shimmed properly. They're going to try to get my car running today.
Does that sound more familiar to you at all?
I thought all of the seals comes with the block when you take the car to the dealership and the block is replaced? Basically all of the seals come already attached to the replacement block. When i had my 1.5 done ford replaced my engine my alternator and belts were even replaced.
The 1.5 short block comes only with the crankshaft and pistons. Everything else has to be transferred or replaced like oil pan, timing cover, cylinder head, front and rear seals, etc. Maybe you got a long block installed? I think they come complete
My ford fusion with the 1.5 is going on 148,000 miles with the original timing belt. Getting a little nervous now.
Looks like you are there. Here is what the normal maintenance schedule says: Every 150000 mi (240,000 km) Change automatic transmission fluid. Replace accessory drive belt(s).4
Replace timing belt (1.5L engine).
Still running strong?
I have a 15 Fusion with the 1.5l at the Ford dealer in Everett. They replaced the engine 2.5 years ago, it has 6 months left on the warranty. Last week the heater wasn’t working and I found the dgas dry… here we go again! I’m worried they’re going to jerk me around. Do you have any suggestions?
I would install a cooling system pressure tester on the degas bottle for a few hours and see where the leak develops. It may have an external leak like a hose clamp, water pump, etc. If you don't find an external leak then pull the spark plugs and look down inside to see if coolant is puddling up on a piston. The oil cooler can leak internal and mix with the oil. Visually inspect the oil on the dipstick for signs of water in the oil. Also, pull the oil cap and inspect inside for condensation, water in oil, milky sludge, etc.
The tools your use..are they in that same kit you showed
Yes sir 🙂 www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Compatible-Ecoboost-303-1097-303-1550/dp/B07TCMF9TH/ref=asc_df_B07TCMF9TH/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366306749487&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7892900741923834910&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-1004293265272&ref=&adgrpid=75066162654&th=1
I just rebuild a 1.5 Ecoboost with the new block and I did the timing like you with the tools still in the camshafts when tighting the bolts. But when I started the engine, it ran very rough. So I checked the timing again und saw that the intake cam was little off so that the VCT tool doesnt fit. Do you have an idea how this can happen? I just hope that there is no further damage to the engine.
Greetings from Germany
Doesn't make any sense the cam would be off if the bolts were tightened with the tools in place. Did you also check the crankshaft pulley alignment with it on it's stop to make sure the tool engages with the slot? I would try setting everything back up and tightening all the bolts but before you install the valve cover, remove all the tools. Rotate the crankshaft over by hand a few times. Reinstall the crank stop pin and rotate crankshaft over until it stops then reinstall all the tools to make sure they slide in and everything is lined up. If it looks good then wrap it up. Good Luck!
@@raincitywrench117 I still dont know what the problem was, but I set the timing right again and tightened the bolts again and now it runs completely normal.
@@Meganex14 Awesome!
Ic u didnt pull starter to install flywheel tool to hold enging
I cheated 😅 Used the crankshaft stop pin and chain wrench around pulley as extra support when tightening the crank bolt.
What position would you say your cam notches are in when correctly timed?
Just purchased a car with timing issues
Looking at mine it appears like they're in the 1 o'clock exhaust an 12 intake
Would post a snip but can't. Looks like they may both be @ 12:00 but in workshop they are partially covered with 303-1097 tool. I don't use the marks, if the tool slides in then it's aligned. This is quite the setup and can easily be screwed up. The crank can be off or each individual cam off even with the 303-1097 tool installed. I would get a cheap alignment set, pull the front cover and valve cover and start from scratch making sure to be thorough. Here are the directions if the link works: f01.justanswer.com/dcraig1000/4b59f200-a8bf-42ee-a027-7c2ddd2aefae_eee.pdf
Think this is the set I bought: www.amazon.com/BELEY-Engine-Flywheel-Locking-Camshaft/dp/B07WXP6DMB/ref=asc_df_B07WXP6DMB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366306749487&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13466324808269377668&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033354&hvtargid=pla-817825322049&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=75066162654&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366306749487&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13466324808269377668&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033354&hvtargid=pla-817825322049
I got the kit already I'll double check it, do I need any special tools to remove the valve cover?
Okay so I took it all apart and timed it and now I'm getting a p00c6 code and it won't start? Any idea
@@jessegray4819 That's a fuel rail pressure too low code. I would remove the high pressure fuel pump and make sure the drive tappet isn't messed up along with the camshaft lobe. Also make sure one of the fuses didn't blow that powers the low pressure pump.
Do you have the engine hanging by a threaded rod in the spark plug hole?
The rod has a hook on the bottom. I hooked it on the front aluminum casting in the spark plug valley. You can see it pretty good at the 5:00 min mark. That hook arm comes with my transverse support fixture. www.toolsource.com/misc-c-318/700-lb-engine-support-bar-p-161847.html
I see now. Thanks. 👍
Do you think the 1.5 ecoboost can benefit from a valve cover breather ?maybe save the head gasket. I have a jlt oil cache can instead .
I have yet to see heavy carbon buildup issues on these engines like the european models and a catch can will have no affect on the cylinder head gasket. Do you have it already installed?
@@raincitywrench117 yes I have a jlt catch can for carbon build up. I was wondering about a valve cover breather for pressure build up because these engines are known to have leaking head gasket.
@@garofalo1707 Ok, I understand. The JLT will definitely help keep the valves clean. As for the breather I can't say what affect on the head gasket it will have. If your 1.5L has the updated short block then you won't have a problem with it. Here is what the updated block looks like: minutes 14:00-14:17 ruclips.net/video/vVCyzQ249CE/видео.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench Haven't done one of these jobs in over a year.
Yo wrench i had a short block done I've put a 100k on it since do think it's time for new spark plugs
@@grandmark47 Think those are iridium plugs which last a LONG time but that's when I like to replace them. It should say when Ford recommends in the service specifications pages of the owners manual.