Thanks for taking the time to explain step by step the work process. This is helping me a lot as I am new in the hvac field. Keep the good work. Thanks again Sr.
Nice clean work. Our ongoing joke at work when flaring tubing and someone forgets to put the nut on first is to tell them "I've heard of people doing that, but I personally never have."
Why don't just braze in the filter drier? Will be much easier than flaring. 7:33 16 Cubic 3/8 filter drier? You decide the filter drier size by what if the old one has rusted uncleared label? Thanks
Nice work Jim! Great tip on forming a coil in the cap tubes. I'm not keen on LeakLock myself but each to their own and it obviously works well for you. I'm one of those annoying techs who braze everything in haha
Great Video. When I was in the trade back in the 80s we would use the same type of torch that didn't need the oxygen it would suck the air thru the base of the nozel to mix with the acetalyne, forget what you call them, but you would need the flex to get a proper bond because that type of torch doesn't produce enough heat but it does just as good a job as long as you use the flex, also its nice not to have to lug the oxygen tank up to the roof allot lighter set up.
Did I miss the nitrogen flow of 3-5 and also the drilling of the line and shavings. Am I being too book smart where in reality the whole brazing with nitrogen thing is blown out of proportion?
just had to comment about teflon on a flare, the thread on a flare have nothing to do with the seal, it seals against the outer and inner face of the flare. by putting tape on the flare you are adding resistance to how much force it takes to tighten the fitting, if you get leaks, it is a bad flare, not because of the threads.
Good point - I though the flare was pushed tight again the seat to make the seal... the threads were just to provide clamping force. I was also worried about the drill filings and soot buildup on the inside without nitrogen... is he just messing with us??
@Weaver Cattle Company amen weaver, I love all these dopes making comments. I always watch and learn from the old timers. They know better than all these morons who regurgitate marketing statements
Being so particular about tidy cap tubes, no acid in system, etc...what happened to not brazing without a nitrogen purge? Now you’ve got the black flake carbon build up...and @ 3:40 did you just drill into the line and not even try to remove the shavings? I’m shaking my head here. Did you even do an acid test after that explanation in the beginning of part one of this video? No rubber grommets around the line set running through the metal housing cabinet. I mean, you’ve got the general principles down, but the filthy area that you are working in and the few things mentioned here remind me that even really talented technicians could use some refresher courses of what not to do. Honestly, I don’t mean to be so critical, but you’ve got all these guys on here saying how professional you are and then to see this. Help us all out and personally critique this video and tells us all where you could’ve done better and what not to do. I know you’ve got it in you to do a phenomenal job. You’ve got this sir.
Great video Jim! I was wondering what your thoughts are on accessing systems without access ports like refrigerators for example. Do you use a pinch off tool or do prefer using piercing valves and then brazing in new access fittings? Thanks in advance.
Hi, Jim I'm Eddie I didn't notice in the video if you put the schrader valve back in on the line to the left where you coiled cap tube with the screw driver, for the pressure control valve.
Have you ever seen what is in a compressor sump? Lots of crap in the bottom settled out. The TXV has a screen and the filter dryer has a mesh material. I have drilled it and had no issues.
Nice, clean work, thank you for the video. Did you nitrogen test it before pulling the vacuum to test for leaks? I'm assuming you opened the system between the vacuuming and the bubbles, but that was edited out?
nisw1918 it's acetylene with a turbo torch, there are air intake ports on it that suck in extra air(oxygen) it's a slower even heat that doesn't overheat the copper
Hey Jim I was always afraid to drill into a line because of metal fragments that will get trapped in the line. How do you deal with that so not to cause longevity issues with the system? I realize the drier will catch a lot but will it catch all the tiny particles of metal and in your case you drilled in the suction line so the fragments will enter the compressor before getting to the filter. Not knocking you I'm just asking how to do this safely? I'd guess to pressurize the system with nitrogen while drilling so it blows the particles out.
+MrNiceGuy I use to rebuild semi hermetics, I found that metal bits, like solder or braze BBs sit at the bottom of the oil sump under the oil and stay there, I've never had any problems from this. thanks
+Jim Pettinato Good to know. I feel a lot better about this process now. Thanks for the explanation. I've picked up a lot watching you work. Thanks for sharing!
hey Jim, when you drilled the pilot hole then the 1/4 after.. I always panic thinking that some copper filing went in the tube.. how did you prevent that?
Very neat and meticulous work...well done
Thanks for taking the time to explain step by step the work process. This is helping me a lot as I am new in the hvac field. Keep the good work. Thanks again Sr.
Thank you very much for your time and teaching !! Whish you were my teacher in school!!
Thank you, just trying to share with everyone, it takes years to figure what works and what doesn't
Nice to see someone still takes pride in their work.
Nice clean work. Our ongoing joke at work when flaring tubing and someone forgets to put the nut on first is to tell them "I've heard of people doing that, but I personally never have."
No nitrogen,, why compress some and braze some
***** you sir are definitely a professional! I learn a lot from your videos! Keep them coming!
thanks
Merry Christmas everyone.
Nice vid
Why don't just braze in the filter drier? Will be much easier than flaring.
7:33 16 Cubic 3/8 filter drier? You decide the filter drier size by what if the old one has rusted uncleared label? Thanks
Nice work Jim! Great tip on forming a coil in the cap tubes. I'm not keen on LeakLock myself but each to their own and it obviously works well for you. I'm one of those annoying techs who braze everything in haha
heavydiesel 👍
Merry Christmas
Nice job Jim!!!! Merry Christmas!!!
Merry Christmas
Great Video. When I was in the trade back in the 80s we would use the same type of torch that didn't need the oxygen it would suck the air thru the base of the nozel to mix with the acetalyne, forget what you call them, but you would need the flex to get a proper bond because that type of torch doesn't produce enough heat but it does just as good a job as long as you use the flex, also its nice not to have to lug the oxygen tank up to the roof allot lighter set up.
Siri you are a super professional thank you for the video
You can call me flare man for now on. Thanks Jim I wish we had you as an instructor in shop.
Did I miss the nitrogen flow of 3-5 and also the drilling of the line and shavings. Am I being too book smart where in reality the whole brazing with nitrogen thing is blown out of proportion?
18:50 was the yellow cylinder for the original refrigerant? Did he put that back into the system?
Jim, I am a new subscriber and your vids are great. Keep up the good work.
just had to comment about teflon on a flare, the thread on a flare have nothing to do with the seal, it seals against the outer and inner face of the flare. by putting tape on the flare you are adding resistance to how much force it takes to tighten the fitting, if you get leaks, it is a bad flare, not because of the threads.
Good point - I though the flare was pushed tight again the seat to make the seal... the threads were just to provide clamping force. I was also worried about the drill filings and soot buildup on the inside without nitrogen... is he just messing with us??
True even stated in the name compression fitting
@Weaver Cattle Company amen weaver, I love all these dopes making comments. I always watch and learn from the old timers. They know better than all these morons who regurgitate marketing statements
are you using the air over propane torch set? are you brazing or silver soldering? looks like silver soldering?
Does the black soot not cause problems without nitrogen running through and how do you purge the drill filings?
Como se llama la cinta que utiliZo
Being so particular about tidy cap tubes, no acid in system, etc...what happened to not brazing without a nitrogen purge? Now you’ve got the black flake carbon build up...and @ 3:40 did you just drill into the line and not even try to remove the shavings? I’m shaking my head here. Did you even do an acid test after that explanation in the beginning of part one of this video? No rubber grommets around the line set running through the metal housing cabinet. I mean, you’ve got the general principles down, but the filthy area that you are working in and the few things mentioned here remind me that even really talented technicians could use some refresher courses of what not to do. Honestly, I don’t mean to be so critical, but you’ve got all these guys on here saying how professional you are and then to see this. Help us all out and personally critique this video and tells us all where you could’ve done better and what not to do. I know you’ve got it in you to do a phenomenal job. You’ve got this sir.
Great video Jim and great job
thanks
Enjoyed the video - But I would never braze without a nitrogen flow. Also that valve on the suction side, would that not cause a restriction?
Great video Jim! I was wondering what your thoughts are on accessing systems without access ports like refrigerators for example. Do you use a pinch off tool or do prefer using piercing valves and then brazing in new access fittings? Thanks in advance.
shraetor valves
Thanks for the reply Jim!
Hi, Jim I'm Eddie I didn't notice in the video if you put the schrader valve back in on the line to the left where you coiled cap tube with the screw driver, for the pressure control valve.
Great show Jim!!!
nice video, pleasure watching.
great stuff
watching down in Australia
Jim Thanks for Sharing Top Notch!!!!!
So only change the liquid line filter? Makes sense to me.
Better than new
Great video sir. Are you concerned drilling may leave copper shavings in the system?
Have you ever seen what is in a compressor sump? Lots of crap in the bottom settled out. The TXV has a screen and the filter dryer has a mesh material. I have drilled it and had no issues.
Bad compressor in 30 days.
Mr.Jim, somebody toll me is better to make hol with torch inestad to drill, becouse get in piece of cooper to the system?
Nice, clean work, thank you for the video. Did you nitrogen test it before pulling the vacuum to test for leaks? I'm assuming you opened the system between the vacuuming and the bubbles, but that was edited out?
Good Video. Very Detailed.
thanks
What kind of torch is that ? Thanks for the very informative videos .
nisw1918 it's acetylene with a turbo torch, there are air intake ports on it that suck in extra air(oxygen) it's a slower even heat that doesn't overheat the copper
OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Jim I was always afraid to drill into a line because of metal fragments that will get trapped in the line. How do you deal with that so not to cause longevity issues with the system? I realize the drier will catch a lot but will it catch all the tiny particles of metal and in your case you drilled in the suction line so the fragments will enter the compressor before getting to the filter. Not knocking you I'm just asking how to do this safely? I'd guess to pressurize the system with nitrogen while drilling so it blows the particles out.
+MrNiceGuy I use to rebuild semi hermetics, I found that metal bits, like solder or braze BBs sit at the bottom of the oil sump under the oil and stay there, I've never had any problems from this. thanks
+Jim Pettinato Good to know. I feel a lot better about this process now. Thanks for the explanation. I've picked up a lot watching you work. Thanks for sharing!
how cool is it that the bastard whoever installed that unit routed the BX wire across the electrical box lol
hey Jim, when you drilled the pilot hole then the 1/4 after.. I always panic thinking that some copper filing went in the tube.. how did you prevent that?
+ZuffaLtdDanaWhite I use to rebuild semi hermetics, I found metal bits in the oil sump, they fall to the bottom and stay there.
Good job! thanks...
hi Jim why you solder shredder valve when you can use service valve one.thanks
DO ANY SHAVINGS GET IN THERE WHEN YOU DRILL IT?
How much for a job like this one.
What was the name of that you pulled out at 12:55 leak detection thingy
mr.jim..what grade of rod were you using to solder with? was it 5% or 15%. thanks
dynaflow, it's low
Jim, where's the nitrogen? I thought you needed it to prevent oxidation. Thanks!
In the atmosphere.... Lmao
Cuperic Oxide will get removed eventually with the refrigerant, especially R22 and eventually cause wear and tear on compressor.