It is a rare business owner who doesn't just try to sell us the most expensive thing. Thank you so much for the honest advice you put out and how we can manage the hobby even when on a budget.
I believe I have a new antenna project coming up, at least I know what the type/name is: W3DZZ. I like the fact that Peter is focused on post apocalypse HF antenna building, based on his half century of Ham experience and a great antenna design from the 50’s…that still gets it all done. He can probably build a properly tuned antenna without anything beyond a tape measure. Nice way to learn. Keep up the good work Peter!
Well done Peter. Thank you for reminding us that SWR isn't everything. I believe we hams fixate far too much on SWR when we really should be looking at field strength. 73 OM
@@mewrongwayKOCXF The men in the "horse and buggy days" had generally better radio skills than we have today despite all our fancy gear. The seasoned antenna engineer would place an RF thermocouple ammeter on a pole and drag its contacts along the open wire transmission line to see SWR. You could easily visualize the nodes and anti-nodes much better in those days. Today we are not much more than appliance operators for the most part (with some few exceptions). 73 OM
You might find this interesting. In the in the US Marine Antenna Handbook. MCRP 6-22D "To make a long wire antenna directional, place a terminating device at the distant station end of the antenna. The terminating device should be a 600-ohm" "Constructing a long wire antenna requires only wire, support poles, insulators, and a terminating resistor (if directionality is desired). The only requirement is that the antenna be strung in as straight a line as the situation permits. The antenna is only 15 to 20 feet above ground, so tall support structures are not required. The antenna is normally fed through a coupler that can match the antenna’s 600- ohm impedance. Coaxial cable can be used if a 12 to 1 balun is available to convert the coaxial cable 50-ohm impedance to the required 600 ohms." Why not use a 9:1 and a 450ohm 200w resistor terminated to ground?
I understand the "English" system of measure - I know how long my foot it, I know how far it is from my nose to the tips of my fingers, I know the length of how far I walk at a normal pace in 15 minutes - I do not naturally understand the fraction of the earths circumference or whatever that basis of the new age measure is. Keep on using natural measures, you are doing fine. Great vid, always look forward to your casual and competent presentations.
Well done Peter. You might want to try out the coffee and ham radio ARES end fed antenna. I built it for my QRP rig and it has amazed me with it's swr across many bands.
more hints and tips . keep them coming . had a go at some traps a mag loop . love the loop . collecting old cb radio antennas at the min want the alloy . 10 15 and 20 my next goal vertical . no garden is my problem
Hi Peter. I wonder why you didn't talk about making the whole trap from one lenght of Coax. Then you dont have to search for the right wire, coilform and inductance, nor searching the hamfests for highvoltage capacitors. OK, it is a bit difficult to explain in some minutes, but you find it in "Rothammel's Antennenbuch" or in "ARRL Antenna book" im shure also in RSGB publications. And for QRP antennas it works fine and lightweight with the Red Amidon #2 Mix tores and normal capacitors.
The W3DZZ was my first antenna. I recall feeding it with 75 ohm twin (can you still buy that?). By joining the two feeder wires together before the ATU it would even work on 160 M, like a Marconi T.
I am new to shortwave listening. I was gifted a Texsen s2200x for my 71st birthday a couple weeks ago. I have been trying to figure out what kind of outdoor receiver a (Only) antenna to put up. I have just an indoor wire up now. I am confused hy all the videos that seem to show antennas for transmitting. Maybe a MLA-30 or something else, a just wire? With a wire, is some kind of unun necessary? On a retirement income so costs are a factor. The radio has both a 500 ohm (for a wire and ground) and (2) 50 ohm BNC connections for SW and Air/FM. Any suggestions to hep this newbie enjoy SWL and get satisfactory results would help.
A length of wire is a good start. The longer the wite the better. i would suggest a wire down the garden or yard, a 9:1 UnUn at house end and coax cablleback to the receiver.
There is no such thing as a “non-compromise antenna”. The entire exercise of designing any antenna is picking which compromises are ok. I wish we could stop saying “compromise antenna” like it’s a dirty word.
It is a rare business owner who doesn't just try to sell us the most expensive thing. Thank you so much for the honest advice you put out and how we can manage the hobby even when on a budget.
Happy to help!
I believe I have a new antenna project coming up, at least I know what the type/name is: W3DZZ.
I like the fact that Peter is focused on post apocalypse HF antenna building, based on his half century of Ham experience and a great antenna design from the 50’s…that still gets it all done. He can probably build a properly tuned antenna without anything beyond a tape measure. Nice way to learn.
Keep up the good work Peter!
Yes feet and inches are all I need!
Well done Peter. Thank you for reminding us that SWR isn't everything. I believe we hams fixate far too much on SWR when we really should be looking at field strength.
73 OM
100% agree.
Back in the horse and buggy days a field strength meter was more popular in the shack than a SWR meter! Cant remember the last time I seen a FS meter!
@@mewrongwayKOCXF The men in the "horse and buggy days" had generally better radio skills than we have today despite all our fancy gear. The seasoned antenna engineer would place an RF thermocouple ammeter on a pole and drag its contacts along the open wire transmission line to see SWR. You could easily visualize the nodes and anti-nodes much better in those days. Today we are not much more than appliance operators for the most part (with some few exceptions). 73 OM
Thank you Peter for all your videos and advise. Much appreciated!!
Well done on your 52 nd year in business, I picked up a FT710 from the shop in late September
Nice radio. It’s my hf base station. Lovely receiver.
well done peter on 52 years. keep enjoying the radio. 73 m0fsd
Many thanks.
Great video, very well detailed explanation thanks Peter!
Glad it helped
Peter, thank you very much for using feet!
Thanks Kevin.
You might find this interesting. In the in the US Marine Antenna Handbook. MCRP 6-22D "To make a long wire antenna directional, place a terminating device
at the distant station end of the antenna. The terminating device
should be a 600-ohm" "Constructing a long wire antenna requires only wire, support poles,
insulators, and a terminating resistor (if directionality is desired).
The only requirement is that the antenna be strung in as straight a
line as the situation permits. The antenna is only 15 to 20 feet above
ground, so tall support structures are not required. The antenna is
normally fed through a coupler that can match the antenna’s 600-
ohm impedance. Coaxial cable can be used if a 12 to 1 balun is
available to convert the coaxial cable 50-ohm impedance to the
required 600 ohms." Why not use a 9:1 and a 450ohm 200w resistor terminated to ground?
Known as TEF Terminated End Fed antenna. The length needed is beyond mos gardens or back yards. Interesting though.
I understand the "English" system of measure - I know how long my foot it, I know how far it is from my nose to the tips of my fingers, I know the length of how far I walk at a normal pace in 15 minutes - I do not naturally understand the fraction of the earths circumference or whatever that basis of the new age measure is.
Keep on using natural measures, you are doing fine.
Great vid, always look forward to your casual and competent presentations.
Many thanks.
Well done Peter. You might want to try out the coffee and ham radio ARES end fed antenna. I built it for my QRP rig and it has amazed me with it's swr across many bands.
Very interesting video, my Danish friend has used one for years with much success.
73.
Good to hear
more hints and tips . keep them coming . had a go at some traps a mag loop . love the loop . collecting old cb radio antennas at the min want the alloy . 10 15 and 20 my next goal vertical . no garden is my problem
Hi Peter. I wonder why you didn't talk about making the whole trap from one lenght of Coax. Then you dont have to search for the right wire, coilform and inductance, nor searching the hamfests for highvoltage capacitors. OK, it is a bit difficult to explain in some minutes, but you find it in "Rothammel's Antennenbuch" or in "ARRL Antenna book" im shure also in RSGB publications. And for QRP antennas it works fine and lightweight with the Red Amidon #2 Mix tores and normal capacitors.
Yes Ive tried it but you cannot beat simplicity. Just trim the coax length until you hit resonance.
Another great video, many thanks! Robert K5TPC
Thanks Robert
The W3DZZ was my first antenna. I recall feeding it with 75 ohm twin (can you still buy that?). By joining the two feeder wires together before the ATU it would even work on 160 M, like a Marconi T.
Yes I recall that.
It seemed like everyone I knew had a trap dipole in the 60’s!
Yes I remember that.
I am new to shortwave listening. I was gifted a Texsen s2200x for my 71st birthday a couple weeks ago.
I have been trying to figure out what kind of outdoor receiver a
(Only) antenna to put up. I have just an indoor wire up now.
I am confused hy all the videos that seem to show antennas for transmitting.
Maybe a MLA-30 or something else, a just wire?
With a wire, is some kind of unun necessary?
On a retirement income so costs are a factor.
The radio has both a 500 ohm (for a wire and ground) and (2) 50 ohm BNC connections for SW and Air/FM.
Any suggestions to hep this newbie enjoy SWL and get satisfactory results would help.
A length of wire is a good start. The longer the wite the better. i would suggest a wire down the garden or yard, a 9:1 UnUn at house end and coax cablleback to the receiver.
long as you can . coax centre to the wire . outer to an earth rod . you will be amazed
@@watersstantonthanks..you answered my UNUN quandry as well.
Another option for a small garden is to use one leg as an inverted L, tuned against ground with a few radials.
Vertical polarised.
Hi I tried to contact your store twice via the Web page and then via email but to avail.
What is the best way to make contact. Regards Andre
If you are in the UK call them and mention my name!
Can't you just use a resister and capacitor to do the same as this coils T1, T2 ? I remember someone doing this .
No you need a tuned circuit.
Enjoy your videos. I did have to resubscribe ! RUclips is at it? 73 Leo
Many thanks
Bravo on the "FEET" measurements...😅
Ha Ha.
So you can start referring to the various bands in imperial then. See how that goes for you.
Imperial is good
Good to hear.l
There is no such thing as a “non-compromise antenna”. The entire exercise of designing any antenna is picking which compromises are ok. I wish we could stop saying “compromise antenna” like it’s a dirty word.
Feel better now ?
anectodal with no actual making.
I think a better antenna is the fan dipole. You can have what ever band you like
And get a good return loss. Paul HS0ZLQ, G0MIH.
Yes there are many options. The W3DZZ claims to have gain on 20m for example as it functions a three half waves in phase.