I love the sound the QMX+, QMX makes. Even the so called "clicks" are ok with me. I chose the "Really Twisted Sister 12v" transformer :) I have over 4 watts on all bands, with 20 having 5.1 and 60 5.9 watts output with 12v (QMX Mid Band)
@Linas_LY2H we get lucky sometimes, I'm sure it was a fluke, lol. I'm having a blast, I use it more than my KX2, FT818 etc. Something about using a rig that I assembled and got to work makes it sweeter. 73, de AI5DD Joe
First QMX was DOA after I assembled it. Never had a problem with any of the other three QRPLABs kits I have build. Blew it up trying to troubleshoot it. Ordered the next one assembled. Works great. Have been waiting patiently for the SSB Tx fix. Since Dayton 2022. Will not buy a QMX+ until the fix is in. No matter, Hans designs great radios. Using my Trusdx as my SOTA all-a-rounder until the QMX gets the ssb firmware update.
@@raithjames860 Sorry for your first QMX Raith :( Glad the second one is alive'n'kickin'! SSB is gonna be a big thing in the market of these nice radios, looking forward to it too! Have fun, 73! Linas LY2H
Glad you got there Linas. Last week I ordered an assembled QMX+. Likely 3+ months wait. Look forward to seeing your mods. In a perfects world we can install a battery, speaker and ATU into the enclosure. I would be very happy if I got a battery and spraker in there. 73 from Scotland.
@@MM0OPXFieldRadio Thanks Colin! So, yo'll have plenty of time to get the mids ready! I saw the guys from perfect world have put some mod files on Github already, like mini-ATU, speaker, battery etc. :) I'm not in a hurry for these mods, as I treat this radio as experimenter's box,rather than a completed-radio-in-a-box, and these mods would take the whole space available up... But we will see! 73! Linas LY2H
I had the same problems with the PCM chip on a QMX. Since the device works as a transmitter, I use the QMX as a WSPR transmitter. Then I set up a QDX and a QMX+, both of which work perfectly. I replaced the display with a white and black display and installed a Radxa Zero 3W inside. The power supply is via PD trigger on a power bank. 9V when I connect the power amplifier, 12V for stand alone. 73 DH1HM
I have a built QMX+ coming too and have heard of several other DOA's and I am really hoping mine will be alive as I do not have the tech skill to fix it.
@ I'm sure it will! If it is Rev2 what you've ordered, the probability of a faulty chip is very low, I've red on the groups.io that with switching power supplies pre-built on the board in the factory ( was not the case in the Rev1), the QRPLabs is able to make checks on this chip before dispatching the kit. Let us know, what will you've found! 73! Linas LY2H
Now the proud owner of a new QMX Plus! Having just moved to a new QTH, all I need is to set up a reasonable HF antenna, and probably an ATU, and get on-air! I would like to use FT8 and JS8Call and really anticipate the firmware release to allow SSB and Winlink modes. I have a hankering to use a Raspberry Pi for the software, or revert to a Win 10 tablet! I’ll be interested to see how you get on with the QMX Plus in future videos. Richard G8ITB.
@@g8itb-radio Happy New Yer Richard, and happy dxing with your QMX +! I haven't tried my QMX+ with the Raspberry Pi yet, but it shouldn't be a problem as I have tried my QDX and it was running fine on FT8. 73! Have fun! 73! Linas LY2H
Ah! Already snowy in Lithuania!? Here is Chicago - it is just cold - Minus 6 Celsius. I heard click and thumps in previous software, but it seems it was resolved several updates ago.
@@KD9ZHF we have +2C today, sunny, and the snow is gone (will come back soon, though :(( ) Hope, clicks and thumps will not, in the uocoming fw uodates :) 73! Linas LY2H
Looking at your problem, hot air is the correct was to remove the chip. If possible use an adapter for the package you are trying to remove. To use the bad board look at your schematic solder down the pins you can on the chip then run wires to where the missing traces go. Now remove the torn up traces to allow the chip to sit on the board.
Linas, if you are 100% sure that a chip like the 1804 is defective and needs to be removed from the PCB, you can also cut off all the legs along the plastic housing of the chip. Use fine side cutters and cut off all the legs. You can then easily remove the cut pins from the PCB with tweezers and a soldering iron. You can then use desoldering litz to clean the print tracks neatly before mounting a new chip. Very unfortunate that it went wrong. Hopefully you can get the QMX+ up and running again with an external PCB and loose wires. Thanks for your interesting video again. By the way Linas, do you have a link/url for the (orange) 3D printed tilt-stand for the QCX Mini? I can only find the model as a simple stand, but I'm looking for the model which also is a protection for the nobs and screen by using it upside down. I know someone created it but I cannot find it anymore. I guess yours is such a one. Thanks in advance. 72, Carel PA0CMU
@@carelmulder8035 thanks Carel! Yes, your method would have been much better! As it comes to the QMX cover/stand, it's from Thingiverse, author F4EGX, pops up on "QMX" search. Fits also the QCX , despite that box being a bit thinner. 73! Linas LY2H
@@KG6YJ Hello OM, I don’t have the Hi-band QMX, so I don’t know. My QMX+ does have a birdie on 21,066.18 Mhz in CW and 21,066.9Mhz in Digi with no antenna connected. I wouldn’t call them super strong , though :) . It would be interesting to know the origin of this “product”, even if it does not make my life unbearable :)) 73! Linas LY2H
@Linas_LY2H Thanks Linas. My QMX hi-band has a super strong birdie at 21.066MHz，with earphones it sounds like 599+30dB or so. My friend's QMX has the same thing. Now I know it's there and just skip. Yes, root-causing it would be interesting. Will buy a QMX+ kit and try. 73! de KG6YJ, Jun.
@@MINI-4X4-RADIO Yes, the QMX is connected with only one USB cable to the PC, and the sentences (data) from the GPS receiver is transmitted via this cable to the Terminal interface (PuTTY in my case). One of the terminal apps is called the "GPS viewer" which displays all the data on the screen. HTH, 73! Linas LY2H
@@Linas_LY2H O.K if the GPS shows up as a COM Port in Windows Then using the latest version of "BktTimeSync" you can use it to Sync Time on your PC, and also Pass the Grid Square to WSJTX.
@ If I understood correctly what Hans , G0UPL been writing in one of his iogroups posts, it is not , currently, possible to sync PC's time using the QMX's built-in GPS receiver's signal, it would take some further firmware update in arranging the virtual comports accordingly. Accordingly to Hans, it is doable and in his plans of doing. The fact that you can see the GPS data on the PC in the Terminal app, is, probably not enough for syncing purposes. But I'm not a coding expert :)
Hello my friend linas. Very interested to see your shack and all the work you do. My qcx and qdx work great ,waiting time for assembled unit is far too long. Still hope to catch you on 40m or 20m ft8. 73 zl3xdj
Sorry to see the problems you had with your first QMX+, that does look a bit of a mess. I received my QMX+ a couple of days ago and am partway through the build. Like you I was surprised at how good that six layer board is at taking the heat out of the joint. My iron of choice is a 50W Weller TCP, but my standard tips, don’t run hot enough for this board. I’ve switched to a different iron, which I can program to run hotter, 430 degrees and plenty of liquid flux seems to do the job. Also I’m taking my time and not rushing it, I’m partway through the band pass filters. Anyway your second radio seems to be performing very well. I haven’t got a K3 to compare it against, but do have a K2 and KX3. Thanks for sharing your experience. 73 Nick G0OQK
It does sound rather thumpy. Is that a high speed code thing? I will only be at 12 wpm at the most once I wean myself off of 12/7 Farnsworth. I have listened to many other QMX videos (I pick out slow code samples normally) and I have not noticed it and figured when I did, it was the amplifier/speaker.
hi and great video, in the description you write that the qmx+ works well with fldigi, but unfortunately in my case (and from what I read online not only for me) while the qdx worked perfectly with fldigi the qmx+ only works in rx but in tx it doesn't work. I followed your advice for qmx with fldigi step by step but it doesn't work. do you have any advice on this or have you already done some tests using qmx+ (not a small qmx) and fldigi?? as you write the firmware is identical but evidently between qmx and qmx+ there are some differences. thanks for any possible answer and for all your videos that are a source of information for both cw and digital modes. 73 by IW3ICL - Raffaele
@@sAsDoCToR Thanks Raffaele! I have no problems with my QMX+ with Fldigi working RTTY. Have just done qsos with IR0RIVT and II3RTRE on 20m :), just testing the setup. I have followed all my recommendations for the QMX setup from my other video and it works well for the QMX+ too. Actually, if you can control the frequency via the hamlib and can see stations on the waterfall and get them decoded, then it should work on TX also , if only the soundcard is configured correctly. One very important thing is to get the Transmit level attenuator to 0,0db, (it's a tiny window in the bottom right corner on the Fldigi screen). All this is shown in my QMX Fldigi video. Please try again! 73! Linas LY2H
@@Linas_LY2H Hi, I read what sAsDoCToR wrote and I have to say that he is right about the fact that the QMX+ does not work in tx in fact mine has the exact same problem, then going to see the guide that you published on how to set the QMX (the small one) with fldigi if we go to minute 14:47 you can notice that the radio is recognized as QDX and not as QMX while in my case the radio is regularly recognized as QMX+ and this is where obviously some problem arises. It would be really appreciated if you made a small video guide on how to correctly set the QMX+ or if perhaps you found differences and if the radio is regularly recognized by your PC as QMX+. Thanks for your videos 73 de IW3ICI, Fiorenzo.
@ Hello Fiorenzo! Thanks for watching my channel. Could you please be more specific on what your problem is? You write, it does not work on transmit. But does your QMX+ work ok on Receive? Can you see and decode stations? Is CAT control working, like, you see the frequency the same on the radio and in Fldigi? Can you PTT? My settings for my QMX+ is exactly the same as for my QMX in the other video. The Rig control is set for the hamlib, and the rig chosen is Kenwood TS-440S (stable). It is very important to check the box "Use hamlib" and "PTT via Hamlib command". In the Soundcart-->Devices settings it is important to check the box "PortAudio". Then in the Capture line and in the Playback line you need to choose the right device from the pop-up meniu, which is "Digital Audio Interface (QDX Transceiver)". It's the only choice, actually. It's OK the radio is recognized as a QDX soundcard , because the digital part of the QMX is actually the QDX transceiver, integrated into QMX/QMX+. So do you see "QMX+" here on your radio? It should be OK too, and this might be depending on the firmware version you run. I run v. 026 and all I say is valid for this version. If you run v.027, it could be different. ( I reverted back to the v.026, because 027 seemed a bit unstable for me, but I have not tested it for work with Fldigi). 73! Linas LY2H
@@Linas_LY2H Hi Linas, I'll try to be clearer, I can tell you that there is no problem in reception, it receives and decodes the stations, even the CAT control works and I see the same frequency as the radio. I confirm that the RIG control is also set to HAMLIB with Kenwood TS-440S (stable) also PTT via Hamlib command, the only thing different from your settings (as in your video) is the Suondcard where in the Capture line and in the Playback line in the pop-up menu, the only "Digital audio interface that appears is QMX +. I have a doubt that at this point it is not a firmware problem, in my QMX + I have version v.027 and therefore I replaced the firmware with version v.026 like yours but even so Digital audio interface always appears QMX + and therefore nothing changes and it continues not to work in TX. 73! Fiorenzo IW3ICI
@ That's good news, actually! I think it's ok if it appears as QMX+, probably it's set so in the newer version of the PCB. The radio is working in principal :). Then, I would check if the transmit is Enabled in the Bands configuration, it's normally Disabled in the new radio. Then, I would check what is the status of the 3 dots on the left side of the radio's display: how many of them you see when radio goes into TX? If 1- there is no signal coming into the radio from the PC, 2- signal is coming but is too low in level. 3-all OK, full transmit power out. So, if the send is enabled in the band configuration menu, I would check if all the sound output levels on your PC are at maximum, it's important for the QDX/QMX . Last, but not least, I would check the Transmit attenuator in the right bottom corner of the Fldigi app, make sure it's at 0,0. Something of all this should work out :)! 73! Linas LY2H
Hints: How do you know the chip is ready to remove? Give it a *tiny* nudge from one end. Gently, like you were pushing an ant. If the chip is ready, it will slip sideways as easily as if it were sitting on a dry countertop. Keep the air on it and then you can lift it up carefully. Big mistake: Using too little heat for too long. Too little heat for too long breaks the bond holding the copper pads and traces to the PCB material. Looks like this was one of the problems. For a chip like that it shouldn’t take longer than 30 seconds max. Fact: Most SMT components can take a lot more heat than you think they can. Hint: to make things easier, you can warm the underside of the PCB with a hair dryer. Warm the underside of the board slowly until the top side of the PCB is fairly hot but not so hot you can’t hold your finger on the top side for three seconds. This will get you in the ballpark.
@@R50_J0 John, thanks for your excellent tips! I will try to follow them next time I use the hot-gun. It seems to me , though, that some tips , like pre-heating the bottom side of the board, simply didn't work because of the multi - layer nature of the board with some of inner layers being ground planes. 73! Linas LY2H
Of course a low temp pre-heating of the back of the board helps. Not a lot, but a noticeable amount. Though as a beginner you may not notice it. Internal power planes (copper flooded areas) are detrimental to thru-hole rework but rather helpful for SMT rework because they store and spread heat during preheat. Simple inner signal layers with little copper mass are inconsequential. I think there is a big misunderstanding on the size of the back-side preheat zone. On a board the size of the QMX+ the backside preheat area would be at minimum half the PCB. I would probably preheat the whole PCB, either with a proper PCB rework preheater or with a hot air gun with a very large standoff distance. You should *not* use a hot air gun, only a hair dryer set to high and held 4” - 6” away. Remember to test the front side every 10 seconds with the tip of a finger. No need for an IR thermometer, this isn’t an exact science for hobbyists, only for rework professionals at PCB assembly houses. It is absolutely not required to preheat the board for a successful removal. It is only helps with heat pen dwell time, thermal shock and uneven PCB expansion, etc. Forget about PCB preheating until you can confidently remove SMT components off e-waste PCBs with ease.
No amount of verbal instruction will substitute for practicing for several hours taking components off an e-waste PCB. Some practice. That’s all you need.
Adding the low temp chip removal alloy and then using the hot air rework pen would be a good idea. Like “training wheels” on a bicycle. I never used the stuff since it is expensive and unnecessary for professionals who do SMT rework daily.
Looks like you pried or lifted up the chip before it was ready. A typical beginner mistake. When the chip is ready and all pins are melted, the chip will lift up like a feather. It simply takes experience and a bit of skill to remove a chip such as that. Very quick and easy if you’ve practiced many times on scrap PCBs. That is the key. Just because you have the proper tool for the job doesn’t mean you will use it successfully the first time. The airflow and temperature needs to be adjusted properly. It isn’t done by adjusting digital controls to specific settings or temps. You adjust those variables by experience and trial and error for each hot air rework station. Best advice anyone can give you: Practice on e-waste PCBs. Practice, experiment, and understand the variables.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I love the sound the QMX+, QMX makes. Even the so called "clicks" are ok with me. I chose the "Really Twisted Sister 12v" transformer :) I have over 4 watts on all bands, with 20 having 5.1 and 60 5.9 watts output with 12v (QMX Mid Band)
@@ai5dd Great output specs! You must have twisted the sisters really well :) ! I have no big problems with the clicks either. Have fun! 73! Linas LY2H
@Linas_LY2H we get lucky sometimes, I'm sure it was a fluke, lol. I'm having a blast, I use it more than my KX2, FT818 etc. Something about using a rig that I assembled and got to work makes it sweeter. 73, de AI5DD Joe
First QMX was DOA after I assembled it. Never had a problem with any of the other three QRPLABs kits I have build. Blew it up trying to troubleshoot it. Ordered the next one assembled. Works great. Have been waiting patiently for the SSB Tx fix. Since Dayton 2022. Will not buy a QMX+ until the fix is in. No matter, Hans designs great radios. Using my Trusdx as my SOTA all-a-rounder until the QMX gets the ssb firmware update.
@@raithjames860 Sorry for your first QMX Raith :( Glad the second one is alive'n'kickin'! SSB is gonna be a big thing in the market of these nice radios, looking forward to it too! Have fun, 73! Linas LY2H
Glad you got there Linas. Last week I ordered an assembled QMX+. Likely 3+ months wait. Look forward to seeing your mods. In a perfects world we can install a battery, speaker and ATU into the enclosure. I would be very happy if I got a battery and spraker in there. 73 from Scotland.
@@MM0OPXFieldRadio Thanks Colin! So, yo'll have plenty of time to get the mids ready! I saw the guys from perfect world have put some mod files on Github already, like mini-ATU, speaker, battery etc. :) I'm not in a hurry for these mods, as I treat this radio as experimenter's box,rather than a completed-radio-in-a-box, and these mods would take the whole space available up... But we will see! 73! Linas LY2H
I had the same problems with the PCM chip on a QMX. Since the device works as a transmitter, I use the QMX as a WSPR transmitter. Then I set up a QDX and a QMX+, both of which work perfectly. I replaced the display with a white and black display and installed a Radxa Zero 3W inside. The power supply is via PD trigger on a power bank. 9V when I connect the power amplifier, 12V for stand alone. 73 DH1HM
@@hmlds7336 Thanks, sounds like a plan B for me, in case of damage turning to be irrepairable! 73! Linas LY2H
My first QMX ...little one dead on arrival....my QMX plus LOVE IT....have fitted a speaker and audio amp in it and it is awesome! 73 OM de VK2AOE.
@@TheArtofEngineering Great to hear you fit it with the internal speaker/amp! Do you have any files to share on this mod? 73! Linas LY2H
I have a built QMX+ coming too and have heard of several other DOA's and I am really hoping mine will be alive as I do not have the tech skill to fix it.
@ I'm sure it will! If it is Rev2 what you've ordered, the probability of a faulty chip is very low, I've red on the groups.io that with switching power supplies pre-built on the board in the factory ( was not the case in the Rev1), the QRPLabs is able to make checks on this chip before dispatching the kit. Let us know, what will you've found! 73! Linas LY2H
Now the proud owner of a new QMX Plus! Having just moved to a new QTH, all I need is to set up a reasonable HF antenna, and probably an ATU, and get on-air! I would like to use FT8 and JS8Call and really anticipate the firmware release to allow SSB and Winlink modes. I have a hankering to use a Raspberry Pi for the software, or revert to a Win 10 tablet!
I’ll be interested to see how you get on with the QMX Plus in future videos.
Richard G8ITB.
@@g8itb-radio Happy New Yer Richard, and happy dxing with your QMX +! I haven't tried my QMX+ with the Raspberry Pi yet, but it shouldn't be a problem as I have tried my QDX and it was running fine on FT8. 73! Have fun! 73! Linas LY2H
Ah! Already snowy in Lithuania!? Here is Chicago - it is just cold - Minus 6 Celsius. I heard click and thumps in previous software, but it seems it was resolved several updates ago.
@@KD9ZHF we have +2C today, sunny, and the snow is gone (will come back soon, though :(( ) Hope, clicks and thumps will not, in the uocoming fw uodates :) 73! Linas LY2H
Looking at your problem, hot air is the correct was to remove the chip. If possible use an adapter for the package you are trying to remove. To use the bad board look at your schematic solder down the pins you can on the chip then run wires to where the missing traces go. Now remove the torn up traces to allow the chip to sit on the board.
@@thuff3207 thanks! That's the way to go I was thinking about too! 73! Linas LY2H
Linas, if you are 100% sure that a chip like the 1804 is defective and needs to be removed from the PCB, you can also cut off all the legs along the plastic housing of the chip. Use fine side cutters and cut off all the legs. You can then easily remove the cut pins from the PCB with tweezers and a soldering iron. You can then use desoldering litz to clean the print tracks neatly before mounting a new chip. Very unfortunate that it went wrong. Hopefully you can get the QMX+ up and running again with an external PCB and loose wires. Thanks for your interesting video again.
By the way Linas, do you have a link/url for the (orange) 3D printed tilt-stand for the QCX Mini? I can only find the model as a simple stand, but I'm looking for the model which also is a protection for the nobs and screen by using it upside down. I know someone created it but I cannot find it anymore. I guess yours is such a one. Thanks in advance.
72, Carel PA0CMU
Hi this is how I do it. I do one more step, I tin all the pins with fresh lead/tin/silver solder this helps with the removal of the pins.
@@carelmulder8035 thanks Carel! Yes, your method would have been much better! As it comes to the QMX cover/stand, it's from Thingiverse, author F4EGX, pops up on "QMX" search. Fits also the QCX , despite that box being a bit thinner. 73! Linas LY2H
A also have a QCX mini destroyed trying to replace SMD components. QMX+ went well 🙂 73 Luis, CU2IJ
@@lamap45 It's cool your QMX+ is doing great! Have many Dx! 73! Linas LY2H
Does QMX+ also have a super strong chirp at 21.066MHz like the QMX? Other frequencies have weaker chirps on QMX, not sure about QMX+
@@KG6YJ Hello OM, I don’t have the Hi-band QMX, so I don’t know. My QMX+ does have a birdie on 21,066.18 Mhz in CW and 21,066.9Mhz in Digi with no antenna connected. I wouldn’t call them super strong , though :) . It would be interesting to know the origin of this “product”, even if it does not make my life unbearable :)) 73! Linas LY2H
@Linas_LY2H Thanks Linas. My QMX hi-band has a super strong birdie at 21.066MHz，with earphones it sounds like 599+30dB or so. My friend's QMX has the same thing. Now I know it's there and just skip. Yes, root-causing it would be interesting. Will buy a QMX+ kit and try. 73! de KG6YJ, Jun.
When you had the GPS Data/Details on your Chuwi Mini PC
Are you read that from the QMX+ via USB/CAT COM port.?
Thanks
@@MINI-4X4-RADIO Yes, the QMX is connected with only one USB cable to the PC, and the sentences (data) from the GPS receiver is transmitted via this cable to the Terminal interface (PuTTY in my case). One of the terminal apps is called the "GPS viewer" which displays all the data on the screen. HTH, 73! Linas LY2H
@@Linas_LY2H
O.K if the GPS shows up as a COM Port in Windows
Then using the latest version of "BktTimeSync" you can use it to Sync Time on your PC, and also Pass the Grid Square to WSJTX.
@ If I understood correctly what Hans , G0UPL been writing in one of his iogroups posts, it is not , currently, possible to sync PC's time using the QMX's built-in GPS receiver's signal, it would take some further firmware update in arranging the virtual comports accordingly. Accordingly to Hans, it is doable and in his plans of doing. The fact that you can see the GPS data on the PC in the Terminal app, is, probably not enough for syncing purposes. But I'm not a coding expert :)
O siaube kas taip chipus keicia 😀 Reikejo pas mane atnesti buciau svariai pakeites 😀
@@MyOpenCANLab Taip, pritariu :) Ačiū, žinosiu, kur kreiptis ... 73! Linas LY2H
Hello my friend linas. Very interested to see your shack and all the work you do.
My qcx and qdx work great ,waiting time for assembled unit is far too long. Still hope to catch you on 40m or 20m ft8. 73 zl3xdj
@@brianfields4479 Thanks Brian! I'm sure we'll make it FT8 too! CUL! 73! Linas LY2H
Sorry to see the problems you had with your first QMX+, that does look a bit of a mess. I received my QMX+ a couple of days ago and am partway through the build. Like you I was surprised at how good that six layer board is at taking the heat out of the joint. My iron of choice is a 50W Weller TCP, but my standard tips, don’t run hot enough for this board. I’ve switched to a different iron, which I can program to run hotter, 430 degrees and plenty of liquid flux seems to do the job. Also I’m taking my time and not rushing it, I’m partway through the band pass filters. Anyway your second radio seems to be performing very well. I haven’t got a K3 to compare it against, but do have a K2 and KX3. Thanks for sharing your experience. 73 Nick G0OQK
@@laverdanick Thanks Nick! Have fun and good luck in building your QMX+! 73! Linas LY2H
It does sound rather thumpy. Is that a high speed code thing? I will only be at 12 wpm at the most once I wean myself off of 12/7 Farnsworth. I have listened to many other QMX videos (I pick out slow code samples normally) and I have not noticed it and figured when I did, it was the amplifier/speaker.
@@PaulK7VIQ I'm not sure about the speed /thumps relation, it's yet to be seen :), after more experimenting ...
hi and great video, in the description you write that the qmx+ works well with fldigi, but unfortunately in my case (and from what I read online not only for me) while the qdx worked perfectly with fldigi the qmx+ only works in rx but in tx it doesn't work.
I followed your advice for qmx with fldigi step by step but it doesn't work.
do you have any advice on this or have you already done some tests using qmx+ (not a small qmx) and fldigi??
as you write the firmware is identical but evidently between qmx and qmx+ there are some differences.
thanks for any possible answer and for all your videos that are a source of information for both cw and digital modes.
73 by IW3ICL - Raffaele
@@sAsDoCToR Thanks Raffaele! I have no problems with my QMX+ with Fldigi working RTTY. Have just done qsos with IR0RIVT and II3RTRE on 20m :), just testing the setup. I have followed all my recommendations for the QMX setup from my other video and it works well for the QMX+ too. Actually, if you can control the frequency via the hamlib and can see stations on the waterfall and get them decoded, then it should work on TX also , if only the soundcard is configured correctly. One very important thing is to get the Transmit level attenuator to 0,0db, (it's a tiny window in the bottom right corner on the Fldigi screen). All this is shown in my QMX Fldigi video. Please try again! 73! Linas LY2H
@@Linas_LY2H Hi, I read what sAsDoCToR wrote and I have to say that he is right about the fact that the QMX+ does not work in tx in fact mine has the exact same problem, then going to see the guide that you published on how to set the QMX (the small one) with fldigi if we go to minute 14:47 you can notice that the radio is recognized as QDX and not as QMX while in my case the radio is regularly recognized as QMX+ and this is where obviously some problem arises.
It would be really appreciated if you made a small video guide on how to correctly set the QMX+ or if perhaps you found differences and if the radio is regularly recognized by your PC as QMX+.
Thanks for your videos 73 de IW3ICI, Fiorenzo.
@ Hello Fiorenzo! Thanks for watching my channel. Could you please be more specific on what your problem is? You write, it does not work on transmit. But does your QMX+ work ok on Receive? Can you see and decode stations? Is CAT control working, like, you see the frequency the same on the radio and in Fldigi? Can you PTT?
My settings for my QMX+ is exactly the same as for my QMX in the other video. The Rig control is set for the hamlib, and the rig chosen is Kenwood TS-440S (stable). It is very important to check the box "Use hamlib" and "PTT via Hamlib command". In the Soundcart-->Devices settings it is important to check the box "PortAudio". Then in the Capture line and in the Playback line you need to choose the right device from the pop-up meniu, which is "Digital Audio Interface (QDX Transceiver)". It's the only choice, actually. It's OK the radio is recognized as a QDX soundcard , because the digital part of the QMX is actually the QDX transceiver, integrated into QMX/QMX+.
So do you see "QMX+" here on your radio? It should be OK too, and this might be depending on the firmware version you run. I run v. 026 and all I say is valid for this version. If you run v.027, it could be different. ( I reverted back to the v.026, because 027 seemed a bit unstable for me, but I have not tested it for work with Fldigi).
73! Linas LY2H
@@Linas_LY2H Hi Linas, I'll try to be clearer, I can tell you that there is no problem in reception, it receives and decodes the stations, even the CAT control works and I see the same frequency as the radio.
I confirm that the RIG control is also set to HAMLIB with Kenwood TS-440S (stable) also PTT via Hamlib command, the only thing different from your settings (as in your video) is the Suondcard where in the Capture line and in the Playback line in the pop-up menu, the only "Digital audio interface that appears is QMX +.
I have a doubt that at this point it is not a firmware problem, in my QMX + I have version v.027 and therefore I replaced the firmware with version v.026 like yours but even so Digital audio interface always appears QMX + and therefore nothing changes and it continues not to work in TX.
73! Fiorenzo IW3ICI
@ That's good news, actually! I think it's ok if it appears as QMX+, probably it's set so in the newer version of the PCB. The radio is working in principal :). Then, I would check if the transmit is Enabled in the Bands configuration, it's normally Disabled in the new radio. Then, I would check what is the status of the 3 dots on the left side of the radio's display: how many of them you see when radio goes into TX? If 1- there is no signal coming into the radio from the PC, 2- signal is coming but is too low in level. 3-all OK, full transmit power out. So, if the send is enabled in the band configuration menu, I would check if all the sound output levels on your PC are at maximum, it's important for the QDX/QMX . Last, but not least, I would check the Transmit attenuator in the right bottom corner of the Fldigi app, make sure it's at 0,0. Something of all this should work out :)! 73! Linas LY2H
What is that lovely little PC you are using Linas? Would you recommend it? Looks ideal for portable work. Nice setup... 73 VK4QP
@@cthoadmin7458 Thanks! It's an older CHUWI Minibook tablet/PC Win11, not sure if still in production, might be something newer :) 73! Linas LY2H
Hints: How do you know the chip is ready to remove?
Give it a *tiny* nudge from one end. Gently, like you were pushing an ant. If the chip is ready, it will slip sideways as easily as if it were sitting on a dry countertop. Keep the air on it and then you can lift it up carefully.
Big mistake: Using too little heat for too long.
Too little heat for too long breaks the bond holding the copper pads and traces to the PCB material. Looks like this was one of the problems.
For a chip like that it shouldn’t take longer than 30 seconds max.
Fact: Most SMT components can take a lot more heat than you think they can.
Hint: to make things easier, you can warm the underside of the PCB with a hair dryer. Warm the underside of the board slowly until the top side of the PCB is fairly hot but not so hot you can’t hold your finger on the top side for three seconds. This will get you in the ballpark.
@@R50_J0 John, thanks for your excellent tips! I will try to follow them next time I use the hot-gun. It seems to me , though, that some tips , like pre-heating the bottom side of the board, simply didn't work because of the multi - layer nature of the board with some of inner layers being ground planes. 73! Linas LY2H
Of course a low temp pre-heating of the back of the board helps. Not a lot, but a noticeable amount. Though as a beginner you may not notice it.
Internal power planes (copper flooded areas) are detrimental to thru-hole rework but rather helpful for SMT rework because they store and spread heat during preheat. Simple inner signal layers with little copper mass are inconsequential.
I think there is a big misunderstanding on the size of the back-side preheat zone. On a board the size of the QMX+ the backside preheat area would be at minimum half the PCB. I would probably preheat the whole PCB, either with a proper PCB rework preheater or with a hot air gun with a very large standoff distance. You should *not* use a hot air gun, only a hair dryer set to high and held 4” - 6” away. Remember to test the front side every 10 seconds with the tip of a finger. No need for an IR thermometer, this isn’t an exact science for hobbyists, only for rework professionals at PCB assembly houses.
It is absolutely not required to preheat the board for a successful removal. It is only helps with heat pen dwell time, thermal shock and uneven PCB expansion, etc.
Forget about PCB preheating until you can confidently remove SMT components off e-waste PCBs with ease.
No amount of verbal instruction will substitute for practicing for several hours taking components off an e-waste PCB. Some practice. That’s all you need.
Adding the low temp chip removal alloy and then using the hot air rework pen would be a good idea. Like “training wheels” on a bicycle.
I never used the stuff since it is expensive and unnecessary for professionals who do SMT rework daily.
@ Thanks!
Looks like you pried or lifted up the chip before it was ready. A typical beginner mistake. When the chip is ready and all pins are melted, the chip will lift up like a feather.
It simply takes experience and a bit of skill to remove a chip such as that. Very quick and easy if you’ve practiced many times on scrap PCBs. That is the key.
Just because you have the proper tool for the job doesn’t mean you will use it successfully the first time.
The airflow and temperature needs to be adjusted properly. It isn’t done by adjusting digital controls to specific settings or temps. You adjust those variables by experience and trial and error for each hot air rework station.
Best advice anyone can give you: Practice on e-waste PCBs. Practice, experiment, and understand the variables.
73 de SM6MOJ