YES! I’ve replaced these input jacks soooo many times only to have them fail again in a year. Just tried this on a Frontman 25R, and it works like a charm. You rock!
Thanks for the video! I had thought a standard jack would not fit. But, I had already purchased the plastic input jack, so I used it. It fixed my amp. However, when it acts up again, I will be replacing the plastic input hack with a Switchcraft. I pulled apart the old plastic jack. It truly is cheap junk to minimize cost and hand labor. Thanks again for the video; it made it very easy to get into the case and pull out the PCB assembly to replace the jack. Joe
You are the MAN! Thank you for the video. I bought a Frontman 15R with this exact issue. I especially found it helpful when you labeled the leads on the old jack.
Obviously, Fender wants to avoid ground loops and does not want the input socket to touch ground. The metal " enclosure " and the panel are grounded to Earth as they should be. Another reason is for a possible use of differential input ( instrumentation amplifier ), but, they do not seem to do this. Whatever the reason, Fender is very welcome to do so as long as the mechanical assembly is metallic, stainless steel. So, they can make the socket of three stages : panel ( and therefore ground ) connected stainless steel, plastic and metallic ground cylinder. The same as now, but, with an extra metallic pipe on top, assembled to the panel and therefore ground. Then, the stainless steel pipe becomes a beam, which, circles all over the plastic enclosure or better becomes a stainless steel enclosure, with the plastic enclosure inside. This way, the input ground will not be connected to the panel electrically, but, the mechanical assembly will be stainless steel.
I have, just, replaced the Fender, plastic, input socket with a three pin, standard socket. The socket has a signal pin, ground pin and a switch pin. The switch pin and the ground pin are connected to each other ( and to ground ) at the socket. Thus, there are only two wires, which, come out of the socket : signal and ground. When nothing is inserted into the socket, the switch is connected to signal and grounds the input, so, the amplifier does not make noise. When a jack is inserted, the switch opens and is not connected to anywhere. Thus, the input of the amplifier is connected to signal. I have disassembled the Fender, plastic socket. Inside, they, also, have the same arrangement with signal, ground and switch. Their connections are made of Brass and or Copper. This is OK, because, Brass and mainly Copper have very low resistance, much lower than Stainless Steel. However, the mechanical stability is very low with the Brass or Copper signal pin squashed and twisted. They should have used bimetal arrangement : Copper and Stainless Steel. Copper gives low resistance, Stainless Steel, mechanical strength. The Fender socket was different than in the video. The socket had 4, protruding pins, labeled : 1, 2, 4 and 5. On the PCB, 1 and 5 are connected to each other and to negative ( ground ). Also, on the PCB, 2 and 4 are, also, connected to each other and to signal. Therefore, the ground of the new socket must be connected either to 1 or to 5 ( or to 1 and 5 ). The signal of the new socket must be connected to 2 or 4 ( or 2 and 4 ). The easiest arrangement for soldering is to connected the signal of the new socket to 2 and the ground of the new socket to 5. This is what I have carried out. No noise ( when the guitar is disconnected ) and easier soldering. I have used an excellent quality socket, purchased from an electronics shop. However, the jack of the cable must be good quality, too. One must be aware, some ( inexpensive ) cables have narrower jacks. Possibly, this is because they are 6mm in diameter and not 6.35mm ( = 1 / 4 " ). Or just lousy manufacturing. Also, be careful with the assembly : The panel hole, made for Fender sockets is much wider than the diameter of the new socket. Apart of gluing, a possible solution, which, I have found is to position and hold the new socket to upper and right ( looking at the assembled amplifier ). The washer ( there was no lock washer in the new socket ), when pressed by the nut, fills the gap and the new socket stays stable ( up and right ). This signal contact rod of the new socket is positioned towards the PCB ( there are no connections there, because, the PCB is single sided ), but, the rod is higher than the PCB anyway ( remember : Up and right ). Do not overtighten or the new socket may be damaged. Lock washer helps. Clean the old solder point excellently with a wick. Blow the BCB and the whole inner side of the amplifier with a blower, where available. Install heat shrinks to ALL solder pins of the new socket. There are two capacitors near. Do not damage them and do not allow them to touch any electrical connection, although, they ( or one of them ) may be grounded.
Thank you so much! Just fixed this same amp that I’ve had since my Squire! I don’t have a bass amp at the moment and I don’t really wanna abuse my Orange guitar amps, so I’m gonna use this as a bass amp/punching bag hahaha
Great tip about fluxing the wick. My old Fender Champion 110 has a broken input jack. I been meaning to fix it for ages. The other oddity - it is darn loud for a nominal 25w amp. On the clean channel I can't go past 1 - wondering if the volume pot is defective.
It may have something conductive caught in it, a little bit of solder, etc. You could try blasting it out with some cleaner first and if that doesn't help replace it.
I have seen pots wear this way. The resistive strip in the pot has a wiper arm that slides along the resistive strip. Over time, this wiper arm can wear right through the resistive strip, causing the wiper to short on the backing behind it. This will cause the amp to go full volume, as there is no resistance there. The pot is probably not worn near the '1' position, because that area is the least used. Certainly replace the pot. Be sure to note if it is a linear taper or audio taper type pot, as they are not the same.
Just found your site and subscribed today, been binging on it this evening. Really enjoying your channel and your down-to-Earth style. Thanks for a good time and good info.
To remedy the problem with narrow jack or wide socket or the two thereof, a 3.5cm long and 5mm wide Copper shielding has been wound over the base of the jack. This makes two turns, because, the circumference of an assumed, 6mm un diameter, d, jack is pi * d = 3.14 * 6 = 18.85mm. To make two turns ( the thickness of the first turn is ignored ), 2 * 18.85 = 37.7mm. Just to be sure the winds will not overlap more than twice, 3.5cm was used instead of 3.77cm. The jack seems to fit very well, now. The thickness of the Copper shielding is around 0.65mm, thus, the jack is around 1.3mm thicker. This is a huge gap. I have not measured the exact diameters of the jack and the socket, but, I may and would report. The glue of the Copper shielding is said to be extremely conductive. The new, stronger, well secured, Stainless Steel socket allows for a thicker jack.
Forgot to mention. The power supply looks linear with a transformer, which, outputs, only, 2 * 10.5V RMS, 14.85V amplitude ( with, probably, 5% or more tolerance ). Thus, the charge in the capacitors is safe, but, of course, the best is to, always, ensure there is no any charge. 24 hours of waiting may be OK. Unplug the amplifier from the wall, press the power button on, when, unplugged and play a chord or two ( although, not necessary ). In addition a capacitor voltage can, always, be measured. Capacitor discharge can be ensured by connecting the two pins on the PCB with metal object, wire, or crocodile wire. To avoid damage to the capacitors, do this, only, after all other options have been carried out, when sure the charge is zero, only, just, to be, even, surer. So, the transformer provides an amplitude of 14.85V. In case Si diodes, 1.4V or more will be lost at the bridge from the two peaks, 0.7V per amplitude. Thus, the amplitude is decreased to 14.15V. Then, the amplifier would lose another 0.7V, because, the amplifier is, probably, not rail to rail. Thus, the amplitude is decreased to 13.45V. Another 0.7V ( more like 1V ) is lost at the output transistor. Thus, the maximum, output amplitude is decreased to 12.75V. Therefore, The maximum, RMS, output voltage is 12.75 / SQRT ( 2 ) = 0.015V ~ 9V. Most likely, the speaker is 8 Ohms. Thus, the maximum output power is ( 9 ^ 2 ) / 8 = 81 / 8 = 10.125W ~ 10W. When the overdrive is on and assuming the overdrive performs full distortion ( a perfect square wave ) and assuming the hardware allows this to be displayed at the output, the maximum power of the amplifier is defined by the maximum amplitude, which, also, is the amplitude of the square wave voltage. Therefore, the maximum power would be ( 12.75 ^ 2 ) / 8 = 20.3W ~ 20W. However, the speaker must be rated for this. Most likely, the speaker's maximum voltage is between 10W and 15W and the overdrive is limited in amplitude and of course limits the square wave to around 9V amplitude to ensure the output power is not higher than around 10W.
Thanks for the video!!! My fender bass amp's input jacket has been acting up im going to attempt to solder for the first time this after lol wish me luck 😄🤞
I actually got lucky and didn't have to change the input jack. I just added a bit of solder and it works and sounds good as new!! Thanks for your video I definitely would not have had the confidence or any idea of what to do with it!! You rock🤘
hey brother - i have a crate practice amp and it's humming loudly without my guitar plugged into it. it has the black pastic jack, and i have some regular jacks so i'm going to try what you did and see what happens. thanks brother
It's an easy fix if you can identify where the hot and ground are on the board. I have the same crap input jack (Fender Frontman 15G) to replace, how to figure out the ground and hot spots on the board? This jack have no marking of any kind
The ground will be in line with the shaft of the plug and the tip is hot so you have to identify which contact goes to the correct tab in the jack by where they are located on it. Or use a volt meter and test it for continuity once it's out to determine which tab goes to each contact
Would replacing the input jack in a large Peavey bass amp be as simple? Would I need a specific input jack, or would any quality 1/4 inch input jack do?
Do you know if Peavey suffers from this same problem? I absolutely love my amp, although I have had it for many many years, it has some connection issue in the jack area and I'm wondering if it's just an easy fix. I really don't want to replace the amp because the sound is just incredible and the version of my amp is no longer available.
I don't know for sure which jack your amp would have, but it never hurts to carefully take some of the screws out and take a look. I would imagine it would be something similar.
I have the original Peavey Envoy 110 (with the silver stripe, released in the 1990's). I disassembled it and actually didn't need to resolder or replace anything. As it turned out, I discovered from RUclips that the spring connector thing (forgive me, I don't know how to adequately explain it) sometimes become a little loose on older amps from wear/tear and it just took a simple bit of pressure to sort of bend the little connector piece a bit tighter and it seemed to have done the trick!
Whats wrong with the original jack, does it effect the sound or just connectivity and I havent dont much wiring but why dont you use the solder directly to remove the jack?
The jack on this amp was giving intermittent connectivity and was making incredible amounts of static. The enclosed jack would probably be preferable in this case except they are made so cheaply that the replacement will probably fail as well. I use solderwick because there is so much solder in the holes on the board that by the time you freed one tab the next one would cool and then couldn't be removed. Thanks for the questions!
Any 20 to 24 gauge wire will work, you can get some at an auto parts shop or maybe a car stereo place might give you a couple of inches for free if you ask them if they have any and explain what you're doing. Good luck!
It would make loud static noises if the cord moved even a little bit, and sometimes you would plug in and it wouldn't output any sound until you jiggled the cord
@@pawnshopguitarguy thanks 👍 my fender 15r is just constant static in overdrive dropouts on the clean channel. Thanks for posting your video it's going to be beneficial to saving my cheaply bought amp but i wished i offered the guy I bought it from $10 for it instead of $20 'a slight crackling noise' he said. Thanks once again from Australia 🦘
We used to always turn devices on with them unplugged to hopefully discharge them but on my first day of electronics school an instructor in another classroom shorted a cap with a screwdriver if I remember correctly and it still killed him through a grounding rubber floor mat. So I just stay away from them as a general rule and discharge them to ground if they're very large
Make sure there isn't any solder that's bridging the gap between the connections and make sure that you don't have the polarity reversed. There could be any number of causes but i usually find my biggest mistake is usually a "bad' solder connection that is fixed by a quick redo or a little solder removal. good luck!
It was actually held in by the fabric and vinyl near the corners and I had to take a plastic wedge and push the stuff out of the way so I could pull it apart. I also had to push the vinyl back carefully to reassemble it, be careful not to tear the vinyl or speaker cloth
It was leftover from a Squier Strat that I had upgraded the electronics on, you can also get new Switchcraft jacks for less than $5 at a guitar or electronics parts supply
If you have a multimeter you can insert one lead into the jack just far enough to touch the negative contact then using the ohm meter try the terminals until you get the one with no resistance. generally the pins run inline with the jack also to keep the contact length short.
i tried everything exactly the same way and i get that sort of white noise when i turned it on, but guitar seems not to be connected still.. what should i do?
Verify that you have the polarity correct and make sure it's not the guitar or the cord. I took a guitar apart once before I realized the cable was bad, not the guitar.
YES! I’ve replaced these input jacks soooo many times only to have them fail again in a year. Just tried this on a Frontman 25R, and it works like a charm. You rock!
Thanks for the video! I had thought a standard jack would not fit. But, I had already purchased the plastic input jack, so I used it. It fixed my amp. However, when it acts up again, I will be replacing the plastic input hack with a Switchcraft. I pulled apart the old plastic jack. It truly is cheap junk to minimize cost and hand labor. Thanks again for the video; it made it very easy to get into the case and pull out the PCB assembly to replace the jack. Joe
They use the enclosed jacks to keep debris out of the amp I think but they're so poorly made it seems like a waste.
You are the MAN! Thank you for the video. I bought a Frontman 15R with this exact issue. I especially found it helpful when you labeled the leads on the old jack.
Glad to help, the enclosed jacks are so bad...
Yeah I’ve got a 15G and it needs a new jack too. I actually like the little amp.
Obviously, Fender wants to avoid ground loops and does not want the input socket to touch ground. The metal " enclosure " and the panel are grounded to Earth as they should be. Another reason is for a possible use of differential input ( instrumentation amplifier ), but, they do not seem to do this. Whatever the reason, Fender is very welcome to do so as long as the mechanical assembly is metallic, stainless steel. So, they can make the socket of three stages : panel ( and therefore ground ) connected stainless steel, plastic and metallic ground cylinder. The same as now, but, with an extra metallic pipe on top, assembled to the panel and therefore ground. Then, the stainless steel pipe becomes a beam, which, circles all over the plastic enclosure or better becomes a stainless steel enclosure, with the plastic enclosure inside. This way, the input ground will not be connected to the panel electrically, but, the mechanical assembly will be stainless steel.
I have, just, replaced the Fender, plastic, input socket with a three pin, standard socket. The socket has a signal pin, ground pin and a switch pin. The switch pin and the ground pin are connected to each other ( and to ground ) at the socket. Thus, there are only two wires, which, come out of the socket : signal and ground. When nothing is inserted into the socket, the switch is connected to signal and grounds the input, so, the amplifier does not make noise. When a jack is inserted, the switch opens and is not connected to anywhere. Thus, the input of the amplifier is connected to signal.
I have disassembled the Fender, plastic socket. Inside, they, also, have the same arrangement with signal, ground and switch. Their connections are made of Brass and or Copper. This is OK, because, Brass and mainly Copper have very low resistance, much lower than Stainless Steel. However, the mechanical stability is very low with the Brass or Copper signal pin squashed and twisted. They should have used bimetal arrangement : Copper and Stainless Steel. Copper gives low resistance, Stainless Steel, mechanical strength.
The Fender socket was different than in the video. The socket had 4, protruding pins, labeled : 1, 2, 4 and 5. On the PCB, 1 and 5 are connected to each other and to negative ( ground ). Also, on the PCB, 2 and 4 are, also, connected to each other and to signal. Therefore, the ground of the new socket must be connected either to 1 or to 5 ( or to 1 and 5 ). The signal of the new socket must be connected to 2 or 4 ( or 2 and 4 ). The easiest arrangement for soldering is to connected the signal of the new socket to 2 and the ground of the new socket to 5. This is what I have carried out. No noise ( when the guitar is disconnected ) and easier soldering.
I have used an excellent quality socket, purchased from an electronics shop. However, the jack of the cable must be good quality, too. One must be aware, some ( inexpensive ) cables have narrower jacks. Possibly, this is because they are 6mm in diameter and not 6.35mm ( = 1 / 4 " ). Or just lousy manufacturing.
Also, be careful with the assembly : The panel hole, made for Fender sockets is much wider than the diameter of the new socket. Apart of gluing, a possible solution, which, I have found is to position and hold the new socket to upper and right ( looking at the assembled amplifier ). The washer ( there was no lock washer in the new socket ), when pressed by the nut, fills the gap and the new socket stays stable ( up and right ). This signal contact rod of the new socket is positioned towards the PCB ( there are no connections there, because, the PCB is single sided ), but, the rod is higher than the PCB anyway ( remember : Up and right ). Do not overtighten or the new socket may be damaged. Lock washer helps.
Clean the old solder point excellently with a wick. Blow the BCB and the whole inner side of the amplifier with a blower, where available. Install heat shrinks to ALL solder pins of the new socket. There are two capacitors near. Do not damage them and do not allow them to touch any electrical connection, although, they ( or one of them ) may be grounded.
Thank you so much! Just fixed this same amp that I’ve had since my Squire! I don’t have a bass amp at the moment and I don’t really wanna abuse my Orange guitar amps, so I’m gonna use this as a bass amp/punching bag hahaha
Great tip about fluxing the wick.
My old Fender Champion 110 has a broken input jack. I been meaning to fix it for ages. The other oddity - it is darn loud for a nominal 25w amp. On the clean channel I can't go past 1 - wondering if the volume pot is defective.
It may have something conductive caught in it, a little bit of solder, etc. You could try blasting it out with some cleaner first and if that doesn't help replace it.
@@pawnshopguitarguy great plan. Bonus is piping the amp output into a Hartke 4x10w - sounds amazing.
I have seen pots wear this way. The resistive strip in the pot has a wiper arm that slides along the resistive strip. Over time, this wiper arm can wear right through the resistive strip, causing the wiper to short on the backing behind it. This will cause the amp to go full volume, as there is no resistance there. The pot is probably not worn near the '1' position, because that area is the least used. Certainly replace the pot. Be sure to note if it is a linear taper or audio taper type pot, as they are not the same.
Just found your site and subscribed today, been binging on it this evening. Really enjoying your channel and your down-to-Earth style. Thanks for a good time and good info.
To remedy the problem with narrow jack or wide socket or the two thereof, a 3.5cm long and 5mm wide Copper shielding has been wound over the base of the jack. This makes two turns, because, the circumference of an assumed, 6mm un diameter, d, jack is pi * d = 3.14 * 6 = 18.85mm. To make two turns ( the thickness of the first turn is ignored ), 2 * 18.85 = 37.7mm. Just to be sure the winds will not overlap more than twice, 3.5cm was used instead of 3.77cm. The jack seems to fit very well, now. The thickness of the Copper shielding is around 0.65mm, thus, the jack is around 1.3mm thicker. This is a huge gap. I have not measured the exact diameters of the jack and the socket, but, I may and would report. The glue of the Copper shielding is said to be extremely conductive.
The new, stronger, well secured, Stainless Steel socket allows for a thicker jack.
Forgot to mention. The power supply looks linear with a transformer, which, outputs, only, 2 * 10.5V RMS, 14.85V amplitude ( with, probably, 5% or more tolerance ). Thus, the charge in the capacitors is safe, but, of course, the best is to, always, ensure there is no any charge. 24 hours of waiting may be OK. Unplug the amplifier from the wall, press the power button on, when, unplugged and play a chord or two ( although, not necessary ). In addition a capacitor voltage can, always, be measured. Capacitor discharge can be ensured by connecting the two pins on the PCB with metal object, wire, or crocodile wire. To avoid damage to the capacitors, do this, only, after all other options have been carried out, when sure the charge is zero, only, just, to be, even, surer.
So, the transformer provides an amplitude of 14.85V. In case Si diodes, 1.4V or more will be lost at the bridge from the two peaks, 0.7V per amplitude. Thus, the amplitude is decreased to 14.15V. Then, the amplifier would lose another 0.7V, because, the amplifier is, probably, not rail to rail. Thus, the amplitude is decreased to 13.45V. Another 0.7V ( more like 1V ) is lost at the output transistor. Thus, the maximum, output amplitude is decreased to 12.75V. Therefore, The maximum, RMS, output voltage is 12.75 / SQRT ( 2 ) = 0.015V ~ 9V. Most likely, the speaker is 8 Ohms. Thus, the maximum output power is ( 9 ^ 2 ) / 8 = 81 / 8 = 10.125W ~ 10W. When the overdrive is on and assuming the overdrive performs full distortion ( a perfect square wave ) and assuming the hardware allows this to be displayed at the output, the maximum power of the amplifier is defined by the maximum amplitude, which, also, is the amplitude of the square wave voltage. Therefore, the maximum power would be ( 12.75 ^ 2 ) / 8 = 20.3W ~ 20W. However, the speaker must be rated for this. Most likely, the speaker's maximum voltage is between 10W and 15W and the overdrive is limited in amplitude and of course limits the square wave to around 9V amplitude to ensure the output power is not higher than around 10W.
Thanks for the video!!! My fender bass amp's input jacket has been acting up im going to attempt to solder for the first time this after lol wish me luck 😄🤞
I actually got lucky and didn't have to change the input jack. I just added a bit of solder and it works and sounds good as new!! Thanks for your video I definitely would not have had the confidence or any idea of what to do with it!! You rock🤘
hey brother - i have a crate practice amp and it's humming loudly without my guitar plugged into it. it has the black pastic jack, and i have some regular jacks so i'm going to try what you did and see what happens. thanks brother
Just verify your polarity and it's really pretty easy
Thanks for this video! And, it's not just Fender's cheapest amp that used this crap input jack.
Thanks man!. Got this problem, now I know!
Thanks!
You're welcome
It's an easy fix if you can identify where the hot and ground are on the board. I have the same crap input jack (Fender Frontman 15G) to replace, how to figure out the ground and hot spots on the board? This jack have no marking of any kind
The ground will be in line with the shaft of the plug and the tip is hot so you have to identify which contact goes to the correct tab in the jack by where they are located on it. Or use a volt meter and test it for continuity once it's out to determine which tab goes to each contact
Would replacing the input jack in a large Peavey bass amp be as simple? Would I need a specific input jack, or would any quality 1/4 inch input jack do?
I can't say for sure, but it's probably worth taking a look. I used an extra leftover jack from a guitar I repaired so any 1/4 " jack should suffice.
Do you know if Peavey suffers from this same problem? I absolutely love my amp, although I have had it for many many years, it has some connection issue in the jack area and I'm wondering if it's just an easy fix. I really don't want to replace the amp because the sound is just incredible and the version of my amp is no longer available.
I don't know for sure which jack your amp would have, but it never hurts to carefully take some of the screws out and take a look. I would imagine it would be something similar.
I have the original Peavey Envoy 110 (with the silver stripe, released in the 1990's). I disassembled it and actually didn't need to resolder or replace anything. As it turned out, I discovered from RUclips that the spring connector thing (forgive me, I don't know how to adequately explain it) sometimes become a little loose on older amps from wear/tear and it just took a simple bit of pressure to sort of bend the little connector piece a bit tighter and it seemed to have done the trick!
@@winkmurder Awesome, easy fixes are always the best.
Whats wrong with the original jack, does it effect the sound or just connectivity and I havent dont much wiring but why dont you use the solder directly to remove the jack?
The jack on this amp was giving intermittent connectivity and was making incredible amounts of static. The enclosed jack would probably be preferable in this case except they are made so cheaply that the replacement will probably fail as well. I use solderwick because there is so much solder in the holes on the board that by the time you freed one tab the next one would cool and then couldn't be removed. Thanks for the questions!
What type of wire did you use? I'm having trouble finding wiring to connect the input to the circuit board.
Any 20 to 24 gauge wire will work, you can get some at an auto parts shop or maybe a car stereo place might give you a couple of inches for free if you ask them if they have any and explain what you're doing. Good luck!
Is the socket replacement mono or stereo? I need to replace my Fender Frontman 25R
What did it sound like or what was it doing before you fixed it ? I wished you'd filmed it as a reference for the noobs like me 😂
It would make loud static noises if the cord moved even a little bit, and sometimes you would plug in and it wouldn't output any sound until you jiggled the cord
@@pawnshopguitarguy thanks 👍 my fender 15r is just constant static in overdrive dropouts on the clean channel. Thanks for posting your video it's going to be beneficial to saving my cheaply bought amp but i wished i offered the guy I bought it from $10 for it instead of $20 'a slight crackling noise' he said. Thanks once again from Australia 🦘
Can you touch the capacitor connections with a screwdriver to discharge them?
We used to always turn devices on with them unplugged to hopefully discharge them but on my first day of electronics school an instructor in another classroom shorted a cap with a screwdriver if I remember correctly and it still killed him through a grounding rubber floor mat. So I just stay away from them as a general rule and discharge them to ground if they're very large
Awesome video. Thanks!
Always glad to help!
I tried this one. But the amp only sounds for about 10 seconds and slowly dieing. What to do?
Make sure there isn't any solder that's bridging the gap between the connections and make sure that you don't have the polarity reversed. There could be any number of causes but i usually find my biggest mistake is usually a "bad' solder connection that is fixed by a quick redo or a little solder removal. good luck!
How did you remove the back case? Mine is just not coming off 😢
It was actually held in by the fabric and vinyl near the corners and I had to take a plastic wedge and push the stuff out of the way so I could pull it apart. I also had to push the vinyl back carefully to reassemble it, be careful not to tear the vinyl or speaker cloth
My KONA AMP ALSO HAS THAT EXACT INPUT JACK,WHICH OF COURSE IS FRIED .so will the pos.and negative be in the same position on MY circuit board?
I would say that it's 90% likely to be identical - the positive lead could be different but the ground pin should be the same one.
My question is, what brand of jack is the new one? The new jack appears to be identical to a
guitar output jack, correct?
Yes, any 1/4 inch input jack will work. I used one leftover from a recently upgraded guitar.
Where did you get the replacement jack from ??
It was leftover from a Squier Strat that I had upgraded the electronics on, you can also get new Switchcraft jacks for less than $5 at a guitar or electronics parts supply
Not only is the original, crappy socket total garbage, but, looks even more expensive than the standard, good quality ones.
hi, thanks for your video, but how about if the input jack has 4 pins, how can i locate the positive/negative pole
If you have a multimeter you can insert one lead into the jack just far enough to touch the negative contact then using the ohm meter try the terminals until you get the one with no resistance. generally the pins run inline with the jack also to keep the contact length short.
@@pawnshopguitarguy thanks
i tried everything exactly the same way and i get that sort of white noise when i turned it on, but guitar seems not to be connected still.. what should i do?
Verify that you have the polarity correct and make sure it's not the guitar or the cord. I took a guitar apart once before I realized the cable was bad, not the guitar.
@@pawnshopguitarguy i finally fixed the issue with your method, don't know why it did not worked out at first.. thanks so much! Great helpful videos!
@@taiwangina7587 Glad to help! Keep on rocking!
I need to replace 2 inputs in my
SWR Bass amp
The hardest part is figuring out which is the positive and which is the negative terminal, after that it's a piece of cake
Rock on 🤘