How to make the arc and puddle visible || RotarySMP
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- Mounting a welding lens to my camera.
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The TIG 200P welder was supplied by Arc Captain.
Use this link to purchase from them, and you will receive a discount, and a small portion of the profit will flow to help support the channel.
www.arccaptain.com/?ref=rotar...
This is the affiliate link to the Arc captain helmet:
www.arccaptain.com/products/a...
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This is the auto-darkening lens module I used on the camera:
EU link: amzn.to/3Kgpl5j
US link: amzn.to/3VfAppL
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00:00 - Intro
00:41 - Design the welding lens holder
01:07 - Model it in FreeCad
01:41 - First 3D print attempt
01:48 - Trial fit up
04:26 - Second print attempt
04:36 - Third print attempt
05:00 - Fourth print attempt
05:13 - Final assembly
05:57 - Test with TIG - Arc Captain TIG 200P ACDC
07:25 - Test with MIG
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Music
Eldar Kedem - Stringy Road
Rodellos Machine - The Civil War Song
The Hunts - Spare Me February Darlin 
Наука
Recording MIG to accurately depict what the Welder sees is difficult but you've done as good a job as I've seen anywhere on RUclips. Recording TIG during a Direct Current Steel weld is much nicer to watch. You've done a great job learning these processes and that's not easy at 50+. Keep up the great work Mark!
Thank you very much!
The human eye (and brain ;-) just has quite some huge dynamic range. Much more than camera and screen can depict.
If activate a strong additional illumination and spread the contrast more (gamma-correction) it might even closer depict what the welder experiences.
Also gives a good Video: Hook up the welding trigger switch to a relay to active a strong halogen light-source ---> the welding videos will look even better.
Short and sweet. Thanks for keeping the fluff to a minimum. It's also fun to see the 3D printing design iterations in a welding and photograph video.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for doing that so we can see the weld puddle, very much appreciated!
Glad you enjoyed that one :)
Mark, thanks for shot of the HPSOV/PRSOV, p/n 3215302. We designed and qualified this valve back in the early ‘90s for use on all three B777 engine variants. I can still remember very long hours performing analysis and many late nights conducting qualification testing. Hope it is still performing well. 👍😎👍
Good Eye Joel. In my mind the GE90-90B is a modern new engine, but they are actually reaching end of life. :/
What does that say about us?
Yep Mark, everyone on our team that developed this bleed air equipment for the B777 has since retired. Those were great days. We learned a ton. We learned to always be curious.
Now with RUclips I spend my time learning machining, welding, fabricating, casting, forging, 3D printing. Thanks for the weekly doses of inspiration. Your use of 3D printing in this episode was spot on 👍👍
Looks good. About the only way I can think to improve the image is a very bright flood light, to bring the rest of the image a little closer to the brightness of the arc.
I tried that, but the LED lighting caused the auto darkening to play up.
4th weld was the nicest because the base metal temp increased with each weld allowing the cold settings to work better. Increase your volts and slow down on your travel speed.
Thanks for the tips. This was already at max voltage, for this welder, so I guess a wire speed reduction is the only remaining control
nice job. I find welding very similar to marksmanship, as far as learning and maintaining the skill. For me, after getting the basics down, it's really about living in the moment, concentrating on breathing, and enjoying the experience. I find it very calming, so I agree with your music choice during the welding montages. You know there is the physical effort required to keep a steady sight picture and just the repetition of keeping everything lined up and moving along. Happy Sunday and Enjoy the journey! Thx for posting the great videos! Remember to breath!
Thanks Mike. Good point.
Love Your welding shoes with the hole in front to kick out any hot splatter that might get in.
HI Peter, they are getting close to end of life :(
Great outcome! Funny that I've never considered using tie-wraps for retention like that, and it's a nice quick and easy solution. Way easier than the snap features I've been experimenting with recently, so definitely think I'll be using that in future 3d prints.
Goes well with my laziness ;)
Very resourceful! 👍
Thanks Doric. Have a really nice Sunday.
@@RotarySMP Will do. I’m finishing up re-bearing-ing (😄) my beautiful, recently acquired Clausing drill press. Since I can’t get a Viennese one like yours, this’ll have to do.
@@624Dudley Cool. Will you post a video, or photos?
@@RotarySMP 🤔 It didn’t occur to me to record the process…perhaps a still photo or two could be arranged.
Really cool! It will be intresting to see how well the PLA will hold up to the UV!
Good point. But if it deteriorates, I will print another and paint it.
@@RotarySMP i don't think it will be an actual problem, but we will see. You could also just give it a coat of clearcoat but honestly i would be more intrested to see if it even becomes a problem, so maybe try it wothout first.
That really does work well! Spent all day Friday welding up my leaky woodburner, and managed to use nearly all my gas up! My local calor depot keeps mig mix in stock and It gets delivered to my door for £30 a bottle! Keep up the good videos!
Phil, UK
That is really cheap. It is up to €369 for 10 year bottle rental (includes first filling), and €62 per filling.
@@RotarySMP good grief! I don’t have bottle rental now because of that! I used to have a BOC account for many years, but changed to AP when BOC became ludicrously expensive. I paid a one time deposit on my mig gas bottle which is a small commercial size, and my argon is from a rental free company in Liverpool although i may be changing that to hobbygas as they have a local depot . Tig was £200 deposit and £60 a bottle for gas but it is twice the size of the mig bottle
@@philhermetic Here, the price of getting an owned bottle recertified have become so outlandish, that this rental is the best deal I could find.
@@RotarySMP Lobbyism by the industrial gas industry has paid off.
@@erik_dk842 Yeah, it really seems like a mafia.
I've never welded so it's awesome to see how it actually looks like. 👍
I will keep tweaking the settings and can maybe get that even better.
@@RotarySMP Have you tried to lock down aperture & shutter on the camera but leaving the ISO to auto?
@@JanneRanta That is how I mostly use it. The range in brightness between set and weld is so extreme, that you need more stops than is easily achieved.
@@RotarySMP You could then experiment with auto aperture in addition to the auto-iso. That should give enough range I'd think.
You can't beat a good widget.😊
Hi Ken, thanks for watching it.
I'm no expert but the camera settings could be tweaked to get that looking just as it does to the welder. Nice job.
I was hoping for a set up, where I dont need separate settings for the set, and the weld. It is a real PITA to play around with the camera, when you have the gloves and helmet on, and cables draped around you.
But this still needs some tweaking, and I might try two custom set up's so I can just switch between the two with the C2 and C3 knob positions.
Possibly the best welding footage I've ever seen. Impressive.
Wow, thanks!
nicw job on the side project! love seeing what your up to now and again! keep it up! also, your ark captain affiliate i think is cool bc they say your honest reveiw and liked it, and so did i
Thanks for the kind feedback. I am surprised Arc Captain took me on, as my welding still sucks :).
Instead of a auto lens you could try a solid filter from Phillips-Safety, they are expensive but ive found, for eye balls atleast, that they are super consistent and give better clarity. they would probably help you with your own welding too. it just means that you are going to have to frame the shot and then mount the filter lense.
That is what I am trying to avoid. When you have the gloves and helmet on, playing with the camera is a PITA.
@@RotarySMP could an auto darkening rear view mirror from a car assist in this at all? Just spit balling.
@@RotarySMP what if it was a flap like a normal helmet. flap goes up, flap goes down
@@mandrakejake Would be a challenge to get the mirror lined up.
I have only ever used CO2 & Argon. The CO2 seems a bit better than Flux Core wire. Nice recording setup!
I need to T the TIG's argon bottle with the Soda stream Co2 bottle and see if I can get a nice mix.
@@RotarySMP I have a vague memory of using pure argon on my MIG when I ran out of mix. Sadly I don't recall the results. Looking forward to the T-ing the bottles together hack.
It is interesting that you have this splattery mess of mig. I also use mig with only with Co2, the difference is that I use a big bottle and my welds aro not nearly as splattery. Cheers from Austia-Koroška slovenia
Thanks for the feedback on that. Maybe I just havent found the right settings.
@RotarySMP Yes, no problem. I use Co2 because it is the cheapest option.... ever that is relatively expensive at 55 Euro refill. I dont have the guts to ask whats the price on the mixed gas lol 😆
@@alyo3299 Here, Argon is €62, and mixed gas for MIG is €59 at Zgonc. I couldn't find any better deal.
dont stop moveing the torge. slow but constant is the key and if the distance it to big between then do some small sverly motion
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate that.
@@RotarySMP your welcome m8
My Sunday has begun.
Hi Willem, slow start :)
@@RotarySMP Was waiting on you!
@@WillemvanLonden Hope you are also having a really good day.
Grate video!
that looks like it works good:)
HI Luke, it is quite an improvement in set up.
As an ex Air Force guy you must have a stash of speed tape knocking about
Unfortunately not. I could have done with some instant aircraft.
or just a few slices of a tin can, or drink can as shims to keep it in place... or with a heat gun, melt a few drops of wax or plastic and drop in a ready made seal.
The camera will correct the sensitivity to what it sees to an average of 18% gray (even with the filter).
When you have a small bright spot surrounded with a large dark area, everything will be 'made' lighter.
Dark area become gray, the bright spot much too bright (overexposed). Because the camera average the lighting.
(Opposite: a small black object on a bright white surface: the camera will underexpose it. No detail of the black object is visible anymore and the white surface becomes grayer.)
Use a manual setting instead of automatic, tune the balance and you will notice the difference. Good luck!, Greetings
I used to shoot everything manual with the G81, but since I got the GH5S i typically shoot manual, with auto-ISO. However yesterday i set up two custom profiles with full manual, white balanced with the filter for showing the part, and stopped down to the arc.
The black masking tape you can buy in Korea is great for your purpose. (Also for holding closed battery compartments)
I have never been to Korea, but would love to visit a hardware store there. :)
@@RotarySMP what was more amazing was the shopfront machine shops and foundries around gwangjang. Small workshops or what.
@@mapp0v0 I would love to see that. Maybe one day.
lovely
Thanks.
Nice design, need to reactivate my 3D printer sometime..
You should Rob. Handy tool.
it might sound silly but when you're filming the welding could you try adding more lighting (like excessive light levels) so the difference between arc on and off are closer, to make the contrast even out a bit.
I run into issues with my LED lighting triggering the auto-darkening if I add more.
@@RotarySMP wow, a real catch 22, thanx for ....enlightening me!!
Why not setup some incandescent lighting for this purpose? Is your LED lighting powered by a PWM power supply, could you make it a DC power supply?
Aha! I caught this one early, yet to watch. Hello Mr SMP - Heather
Hi Heather. Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP Sure thing. Good vid as always, thank you. Your 3D printing matches my experience exactly. I produce a 'perfect' CAD first time, then realise that stuff doesn't line up. I then go through two or three iterations before getting a reasonable result. I'm punching the air on those odd occasions when it works first time.
@@GeoffTV2 In some ways 3D printing makes me even lazier. I sort of accept there will be multiple iterations, and dont try hard enough to get it right first time :)
@@RotarySMP 😂 Yep, same.
for me 1st try was ok . 4 dabs of silicone on the frame and cut the knob to lenght 😊
Yeah, that would have done it as well. :)
Nice widget 😀
Hi Julia, it is quite an improvement on tape :)
Insulating tape works fine for temporary solutions but in mid range it turns one of the following: simple plastic tape which peels off, sticky ectoplasm makes everything nasty what touches. However I got the joke.😊
Yeah, taping rarely works ;)
for slight mods maybe a 3D (printing) pen would be ideal, like channel Sanago (korea)
It is pretty amazing what some people do with them, but not my scene. Would take a lot of practice.
I’ll definitely get the helmet. Mine is terrible
I really like the visibility of this one.
At 8:50, if the MIG wire touches the puddle, isn't that called "Short Circuit MIG"? Shouldn't you limit SC-MIG to thin sheet metal and the like? Can you turn up your voltage for your heavier plate welding projects? Thanks for this video and project idea!
Thanks John, but 24V is as high as it goes.
instead of plastic you can use glass protective sheets for smartphone screens.
Good idea.
The plastic is not just cheap plastic, it should be made of LEXAN, and Lexan will filter ultra-violet rays due to its inherent chemistry. You could still add a second lens cover solution, and even a filter gel, and a polarizer as well to the stack up. Now we need a new 3DP frame to hold a 5pc stack up and still align with the cable ties!
Jeez, I wish my eyes could see the weld puddle as well as the camera can. Then maybe my welds would looks less like a blind monkey on a merry-go-round was holding the gun.
Hi JC. That is the same for me. Once I edit the footage I can see how wobbly and random my motion looks. :)
it only gets worse as you get older... lol.
I usually have issues with adhesion on 3d prints due to the relatively rough surface, which is why I prefer ABS as it is much easier to sand/file smooth if I need to use tape.
I have only ever used PLA, as once I got it working, I was too lazy to change anything :)
@@RotarySMPWith the printer being what it is, PLA remains your best option. Just don't use the prints in spaces where it can get warm, like a car. Or an airplane.
@@graealex ...or near welding :)
@@RotarySMP Either way, they tend to lose their mechanical integrity above 60°C already. That's about the only drawback of PLA. Modified PLA can be very robust otherwise, especially when you print with a large nozzle and a bit on the hot side.
@@graealex I tend to use 3D printing mostly for pretty unimportant things. If I really like something, I try to cast it using a 3D printed pattern.
It looks like theres controls for sensitivity and delay on the auto darkening lens. Try lowering the sensitivity and increasing the delay and see if that helps.
Thanks for the tip, I will try that.
I find florescent lighting tends to trigger my auto darkener
I played around and seem to have a setting which works for me now.
For dimensions fastest way is just to scan the object on a flatbed scanner with a ruler next to it
I dont have a flatbed scanner, and I find it easier to just use calipers.
@RotarySMP sometimes I get a part with hand drilled holes all over the place, for those I just trace them in cad
@@Hilmi12 Yeah, for random non-cartesian holes, I have also done the flatbad scan with a copier at work. But this welding lens was a simple rectangle box.
Use anti splatter spray, so blobs dont stick
I need to get some.
for mig welding, is your wire polarity ok? flux core, mig or tig might need different polarity. that would explain the spatters.
I first connected it wrong, and then switched to electrode positive before starting to weld.
Hey just fyi: the arccaptain links seem to not be working. I get a nice 404 page from them...
Thanks for checking that. Wierd, I just retried it, and they work for me. Wonder if there is a cookie set here?
I just regenerated the affiliate link and got the same link again. I will contact Arc Captain and ask for advice.
I'm not convinced you really can tune 3d printed holes coming out undersized. Like it's just the result of the concave and enclosed plastic features shrinking as they cool. Any kind of software solution would probably have to be in the clever simulation realm and add alot of time to the slicing... but it's not too much of a hassle to just to manually add a percentage to the hole diameters in CAD, estimated through intuition and gumption, and manually clean up the ones you got slightly wrong.
I normally ad 0.2mm to diameter, and thought I had on that pattern.
I always work in a circular moition when welding, it drags the puddle.
I need more practice at all these techniques. Thanks.
Lucky I am I don't have a 3D printer. I think it wouldn't take long before I'll throw the thing out of the window...
Hi Michel. I think the modern ones are much more reliable, and auto sort themselves out. This is an old home built machine, and is a bit of an unreliable diva. :)
Well, technically that CO2 bottle was meant to provide the 5% to the other 95% argon... At least that was the plan.
Hi Alexander. I wanted to make sure it all works properly before making a mixer, but since I weld so little, and need to stay in practice with TIG, I am not sure how much I will MIG.
@@RotarySMP the small addition of CO2 to argon in MIG shielding mixtures is to "activate" the weld pool to give penetration. It is not surprising running 100% CO2 results in spatter central welds. Yes spatter not splatter. google the difference ;)
@@RotarySMP Anyway, pure CO2 produces more spatter. But for the small welds where 90% of the time is setup and making sure everything stays straight, I agree, TIG doesn't have much of a speed penalty. And with the new welder you can avoid the problems you had before, like always blowing a crater in your weld at the end.
its slightly to dark when welding
I thought it was still too light, as you dont really want to see the arc, it is all about the puddle.
@@RotarySMP well maybe YT make it look different from what you actually see with the cam
Don't weld in a puddle!
You'll get zapped
Thanks. Noted.
jeah, why not just print a new knob ^^
Cause I already had this one :) And it didn't occur to me.
@@RotarySMP I am sorry, that probably sounded different to how I meant it.. Occurrence right ? As if it never happened to me ^^ .. if only anyone had it in the right moment.
Funny that Arccaptain should be promoting their products in the EU when they don't have any local sales partners. And even if they did, we UK punters would get further crucified due to our dumb, self-inflicted Brexit idiocy. Importing from the US would surely result in zero warranty. Hopefully they are working on EU / UK sales channels.
Yeah, they have an EU warehouse. I am setting up a giveaway on a future video, and they wont be able to do free shipping to the UK, I suspect for the reasons you identify.
Tape, cable ties ... amateur! 😉
Pros use silicon ... 😇
Good call Clas. Nothing like bath sealant to hold the universe together :)