If you turn the umbrella so the zipper is at the bottom, it will close up properly. The draw string is supposed to wrap around the bracket, from the top.
All these speedlight series are new experiences - right out of the box. Not the case with large pro studio gear. Thanks for watching! (I wish I could've heard you screaming!)
Very late to the game but the Photek SoftLighters have a two part umbrella shaft so the protruding section can be unscrewed allowing the modifier to be positioned much closer to the subject.
Thanks. We're really not about the gear here. I like to teach lighting and posing principles. Lots of folks out there are all about the equipment. My main lights are 25+ years old. Thanks for watching!
As always, you have given us an excellent learning video. I personally use one of these modifiers with the FlashPoint equivalent of the Godox AD200Pro. They are about the same size as the V1 but has interchangeable heads and about twice the power for about $100 more than the V1. It makes for an extremely versatile, flexible, powerfull and affordable set up.
If you have an umbrella bracket with adjustable shoe like "Impact Deluxe Umbrella Mount", you can mount the flash and the umbrella rod exactly parallel to each other, which means 1) flash will hit the center of umbrella, 2) the direction of light from flash to center of umbrella will be strait too parallel to umbrella rod. I haven't tried these umbrella style soft boxes, but I was wondering what if you cut down the excess rod, as you might not need it if you want to use diffuser sheet. You can also put some rubber or gaff tap on the edge of the rod to avoid potential accidents or injuries.
The first mounting method would seem to place the light closer to centre line into the umbrella vs the shoe mount which leaves the flash sitting much higher to centre...
Far be it for me to tell you about lighting Tim but I have been using a similar diffused umbrella set up with my Canon speelights for many years . For the shaft issue, if you push the shaft in towards your Godox it will give you more shooing room & spread the light therefore covering the whole umbrella more evenly. If you have the shaft out further, the godox will cover less of the umbrella & the shaft will be in your way. There are other umbrella admittedly more expensive like Westcott that also have a diffusion plate that is attached to the shaft closer towards the actual umbrella acting more like a beauty Dish which also cuts out any unwanted hotspots. Then there is Westcott's (Joel Grimes) Beauty Dish umbrella type set up which I believe to be the best speedlight modifier on the market (also has a studio light adapter called Switch for Bowens/profoto etc, mounts). Admittedly it is not cheap but you pay more for quality I guess. I'm sure there is probably cheaper versions of the same thing in the market place nowadays.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Ha yes "you can teach an old dog new tricks" - The small flash technology has come along in leaps & bounds in the past years. Check out some of Westcott's modifiers (Joel Grimes Beauty Dish & others) etc. Also the Magmod accessaries (magnetic grids, magnetic small diffussers).I have tried all the different brands & Westcott & the now Magmod (especially the grids) are by far the best & easiest to use on the market. Not sure if Mgmod would be compatible with Godox but I could be wrong. Good luck with it all Tim & love your work, your still at the top of the tree I might add as well !!
I`m using normal shoot-through umbrellas with my speedlites, BUT if I want to avoid that the light goes everywhere I cover the entire construction (umbrella + speedlite) with light-proof black fabric and leave only a part of the umbrella free to transform the umbrella into a "softbox", works fine for me and it is much easier to assemble and use than the type of umbrella shown in this video
Whatever works for you. I don't worry about "soft spillage" which can contribute to base illumination. Hard, strong light escaping can't show up in the shooting area ... Test until you like the results. Thanks for watching.
I have this type of umbrella. Beautiful results. One thing though. He’s using it wrong. The round opening goes exactly over the flash head. That’s why it looks crooked. And that’s why with the Bowen’s mount, it was off center.
The speed light goes into the round hole with the draw string. Open the draw string enough so you can utilize the zipper but the light goes dead center then use the draw string to tighten around the light. Then zip up the opening. No light leaks. I have one. But be careful. The legs of the umbrella are very weak and can't support the umbrella open on the floor with the light attached for odd positioning. Best to get an umbrella with fiberglass legs as they are much more robust.
It depends on MANY Variables. In general, a direct line (flash tube facing subject) is most powerful. Like my softbox, a shoot thru umbrella is very efficient. A flash pointed to the back of an umbrella, and the light going thru a front fabric would be very diffused, but would likely eat up some power. Size of box, umbrella, diffusion material etc, all matters. They are all better for portraits than flash alone. Hope that helps.
I think that it is not dead center with the round head. The light is going to hit the top part of the umbrella first then it will spread out. Get a regular speedlight with at the original S Bracket than it would be more dead center.
Tim, I recently purchased this S2 bracket, and I'm having a hard time getting my umbrella to fit through the little hole. I have a 51" deep white umbrella with a 8 mm shaft. Is there any trick to getting that umbrella shaft to push through the umbrella holder thing? It's driving me crazy.
Thanks for watching! Sorry, I've never had that happen. Why not add another tilting light stand/flash head adapter or use the big whole above the mounting screw? Good luck! I find there are adapters for everything.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Thanks, Tim. I think I could definitely use that bigger hole (just need to find a screw). I'm also going to contact the company to see if maybe I am doing something wrong.
@@andrewdoyle19 So, yes, it did work out eventually! Not the way I expected (ha ha), but it did work out. Basically, someone told me to just "very firmly" try to push that umbrella shaft through. When I did so, I'm afraid that a metal piece inside the hole snapped and came right out. But . . . problem solved. The umbrella would then slide in, no problem. I just use a medium to large size binder clip and clip it over the top of the shaft where I want it to stay, and it's worked. Now, I'm not using it outside (yet), so I haven't had any issues with it not staying put. But, I could see that if one was to take it outside, you might need someone to watch over it in case it got windy.
Thanks for making the video, and for answering! I guess your answer explains why some manufacturers make a variant when you can unscrew a part of the shaft once you a set up🤔🙂
I do everything MANUAL with POWER OUTPUT controlling the results. Every set up is quite different. I try to start with ISO 100, 1/125th second, between 5.6 and f/10 (depending on plan with the image), THEN I set distance and power on my lights, beginning with the main.
Cut the shaft with an angle grinder The model has to many pimples? Cut it with an angle grinder Your lens isnt sharp enough? Cut it with an angle grinder
Agree. I have a studio full of high-end gear, a complete road-ready duplicate studio, but am trying to find lighter stuff. The search continues .. Thanks for watching.
If you turn the umbrella so the zipper is at the bottom, it will close up properly. The draw string is supposed to wrap around the bracket, from the top.
Thanks!
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques You're very welcome Tim.
Love your videos...very helpful. Thanks!
I'm screaming at the monitor....turn the umbrella some so the flash fits the round hole!!!!
All these speedlight series are new experiences - right out of the box. Not the case with large pro studio gear.
Thanks for watching! (I wish I could've heard you screaming!)
Me too.... Hahahahaha.
use a hacksaw and cut off the excess length of the umbrella shaft,it will enable you to get your light source closer to your subject.
Very late to the game but the Photek SoftLighters have a two part umbrella shaft so the protruding section can be unscrewed allowing the modifier to be positioned much closer to the subject.
Thanks. We're really not about the gear here. I like to teach lighting and posing principles. Lots of folks out there are all about the equipment. My main lights are 25+ years old. Thanks for watching!
That's interesting. I'll check that out. I've got a product like the one shown here and the protruding shaft is unfortunate. Thanks for the tip.
I've been shooting with one of these for about 5 years with my Sunpak433d speedlight on location and my monolights in studio. I love the dang things.
Great lesson thank you, I find an old tennis ball with a screwdriver hole in it over the umbrella shaft makes me feel safer
Great tip! Thanks for watching!
As always, you have given us an excellent learning video. I personally use one of these modifiers with the FlashPoint equivalent of the Godox AD200Pro. They are about the same size as the V1 but has interchangeable heads and about twice the power for about $100 more than the V1. It makes for an extremely versatile, flexible, powerfull and affordable set up.
You're right. My small units and modifiers are all intended for work outside the studio.
Finally I found a video like this! It took forever to find one to show you how to set it up! Thank you!!!!
I hope it helped. I was still figuring out all these small light accessories and modifiers.
Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate that you showed the alternate adapter! I'm new to flash and these 'construction' tips are so helpful!
If you have an umbrella bracket with adjustable shoe like "Impact Deluxe Umbrella Mount", you can mount the flash and the umbrella rod exactly parallel to each other, which means 1) flash will hit the center of umbrella, 2) the direction of light from flash to center of umbrella will be strait too parallel to umbrella rod. I haven't tried these umbrella style soft boxes, but I was wondering what if you cut down the excess rod, as you might not need it if you want to use diffuser sheet. You can also put some rubber or gaff tap on the edge of the rod to avoid potential accidents or injuries.
Thanks! And thanks for watching.
This is a better design than the one I have. The stand has to go through a slit in the umbrella - which makes it impossible to angle it up or down.
I have 2 of the umbrellas-love them, mostly use only one at a time with a speed light or strobe
Thanks for watching! I've been trying many different modifiers. Some great, so not so much.
The first mounting method would seem to place the light closer to centre line into the umbrella vs the shoe mount which leaves the flash sitting much higher to centre...
Great tip! thanks for watching
Thanks Tim! I was looking at this umbrella and think about getting it. I am going to look further.
Far be it for me to tell you about lighting Tim but I have been using a similar diffused umbrella set up with my Canon speelights for many years . For the shaft issue, if you push the shaft in towards your Godox it will give you more shooing room & spread the light therefore covering the whole umbrella more evenly. If you have the shaft out further, the godox will cover less of the umbrella & the shaft will be in your way. There are other umbrella admittedly more expensive like Westcott that also have a diffusion plate that is attached to the shaft closer towards the actual umbrella acting more like a beauty Dish which also cuts out any unwanted hotspots. Then there is Westcott's (Joel Grimes) Beauty Dish umbrella type set up which I believe to be the best speedlight modifier on the market (also has a studio light adapter called Switch for Bowens/profoto etc, mounts). Admittedly it is not cheap but you pay more for quality I guess. I'm sure there is probably cheaper versions of the same thing in the market place nowadays.
Thanks. All this small gear is still foreign to me, but I'm figuring it out.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Ha yes "you can teach an old dog new tricks" - The small flash technology has come along in leaps & bounds in the past years. Check out some of Westcott's modifiers (Joel Grimes Beauty Dish & others) etc. Also the Magmod accessaries (magnetic grids, magnetic small diffussers).I have tried all the different brands & Westcott & the now Magmod (especially the grids) are by far the best & easiest to use on the market. Not sure if Mgmod would be compatible with Godox but I could be wrong. Good luck with it all Tim & love your work, your still at the top of the tree I might add as well !!
Excelente aula, mostrou na prática como funciona e isso ajuda muito aos iniciantes da fotografia. Grato
Great video every thing has it applications for what your shooting.📷⚡😁
Thanks for watching.
Supberb teaching Tim, always love your videos, please do continue! Greetings from Scotland!
I`m using normal shoot-through umbrellas with my speedlites, BUT if I want to avoid that the light goes everywhere I cover the entire construction (umbrella + speedlite) with light-proof black fabric and leave only a part of the umbrella free to transform the umbrella into a "softbox", works fine for me and it is much easier to assemble and use than the type of umbrella shown in this video
Whatever works for you. I don't worry about "soft spillage" which can contribute to base illumination. Hard, strong light escaping can't show up in the shooting area ... Test until you like the results.
Thanks for watching.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques My pleasure !
I have this type of umbrella. Beautiful results. One thing though. He’s using it wrong. The round opening goes exactly over the flash head. That’s why it looks crooked. And that’s why with the Bowen’s mount, it was off center.
Thank you! And thanks for watching.
Thanks for showing this setup!
I love watching your videos, they are relaxing and I learn new tips, thanks so much
Thank you.
The speed light goes into the round hole with the draw string. Open the draw string enough so you can utilize the zipper but the light goes dead center then use the draw string to tighten around the light. Then zip up the opening. No light leaks. I have one. But be careful. The legs of the umbrella are very weak and can't support the umbrella open on the floor with the light attached for odd positioning. Best to get an umbrella with fiberglass legs as they are much more robust.
Thanks. Seems reasonable.
Yup, I have one just like this with the same setup. Works great.
Thanks bro. Was wondering about these and you provided a good run-down.
Like the way you build this up I have learnt a lot here
Nice guidance sir with the less budget we can setup our small home studio
Which produces more light shoot through umbrella or reflective umbrella or a softbox?
It depends on MANY Variables. In general, a direct line (flash tube facing subject) is most powerful. Like my softbox, a shoot thru umbrella is very efficient. A flash pointed to the back of an umbrella, and the light going thru a front fabric would be very diffused, but would likely eat up some power.
Size of box, umbrella, diffusion material etc, all matters.
They are all better for portraits than flash alone.
Hope that helps.
Thank you for sharing!
Really nice video, If I win this giveaway I would take the automatic slider.
I think that it is not dead center with the round head. The light is going to hit the top part of the umbrella first then it will spread out. Get a regular speedlight with at the original S Bracket than it would be more dead center.
Thanks. I have both the original S1 and traditional shape speedlights.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques You are welcome and I also have the original S brackets for my two Nikon speed lights.
太巧了，我使用的设备与大师的几乎一样。
Thanks for watching!
Amazing channel Sir !
How do I get the umbrella stem through the s bracket? Mine had a blockage or seems too smal
Can i use a bigger size of umbrella ,around 105cm for godox v1 flash?
Sure. I used one recently as a "high fill" at an event. You'll need an S2 bracket and an umbrella that fits the umbrella shaft opening.
Thanks Tim for your honest opinion about this modifier, maybe it might be useful as a portable device ?
Thanks for watching! That is my only intent for ALL the speedlight and modifier info. I have great high-end gear in my studios already.
Tim, I recently purchased this S2 bracket, and I'm having a hard time getting my umbrella to fit through the little hole. I have a 51" deep white umbrella with a 8 mm shaft. Is there any trick to getting that umbrella shaft to push through the umbrella holder thing? It's driving me crazy.
Thanks for watching! Sorry, I've never had that happen. Why not add another tilting light stand/flash head adapter or use the big whole above the mounting screw? Good luck! I find there are adapters for everything.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Thanks, Tim. I think I could definitely use that bigger hole (just need to find a screw). I'm also going to contact the company to see if maybe I am doing something wrong.
@@daph24ne Did you ever work it out? I am having the same problem!
@@andrewdoyle19 So, yes, it did work out eventually! Not the way I expected (ha ha), but it did work out. Basically, someone told me to just "very firmly" try to push that umbrella shaft through. When I did so, I'm afraid that a metal piece inside the hole snapped and came right out. But . . . problem solved. The umbrella would then slide in, no problem. I just use a medium to large size binder clip and clip it over the top of the shaft where I want it to stay, and it's worked. Now, I'm not using it outside (yet), so I haven't had any issues with it not staying put. But, I could see that if one was to take it outside, you might need someone to watch over it in case it got windy.
What about simply cutting off a piece of the umbrella shaft, so that the distance to the subject can be decreased?
Thanks for watching!
I think it would all fall apart when you collapse it.
Thanks for making the video, and for answering! I guess your answer explains why some manufacturers make a variant when you can unscrew a part of the shaft once you a set up🤔🙂
I’m new to the godox speedlite. Do they have a modeling light ??
The V1's I use do, but they are very week and might only be good in a darkened room. The AD300Pro has a lot more output. Thanks for watching!
What settings for the Godox v1 in this?
I do everything MANUAL with POWER OUTPUT controlling the results. Every set up is quite different. I try to start with ISO 100, 1/125th second, between 5.6 and f/10 (depending on plan with the image), THEN I set distance and power on my lights, beginning with the main.
Tnx
Cut the shaft with an angle grinder
The model has to many pimples? Cut it with an angle grinder
Your lens isnt sharp enough? Cut it with an angle grinder
What camera and lens are you using?
Thanks for watching, Avery!
Canon 5D Mark IV w/ Canon EF/L-series 70-200
Add a hacksaw. Shorten that post!
The back-and-forth with the black-and-white takes in the beginning is really annoying.
Thanks for watching just the same.
Lost me at not spinning the box!
You get what you pay for ! A pretty clunky umbrella with a free eye poker on the end. Beneath your standards Tim.
Agree. I have a studio full of high-end gear, a complete road-ready duplicate studio, but am trying to find lighter stuff. The search continues ..
Thanks for watching.
The free eye poker is there because he mounted in the wrong way; YT masters...