I hope you get to see this comment. I know you said that you’re not a mechanic but you’ve probably dealt with my situation. So when I turn the key on my 99 z28 Camaro it just clicks . When I put the key in the lights turn on but when I try to start the car all the lights go out. I tested the starter at orielys and they said it was good . I bought a new battery to just in case & ignition switch too that you showed in the video and it still does the same thing . My dad ran a cable underneath the car from the starter to the battery and it turns on for a brief second . It will stay on if you consistently spray starter fluid into the intake. So obviously there isn’t any fuel running . We can hear the fuel pump turn on when you place the key too. I also replaced the fuel filter . So I’m stuck and out of options . Is it the key? Is it the computer? I’m hope that anyone can give me an honest answer. The car turned on fine like a couple of months ago but now it doesn’t even turn the motor over . Just a simple click . Please help ☹️
Wow. Whatever it is it's probably simple like a relay or fuse. Start with those and check all wiring. Especially look for signs of mice. They can cause havoc if they've chewed a wiring harness. Also, check all of your grounds, engine, battery, etc. Hope this helps!
@@jhuntosgarage Will do . And yes there was a lot of mice in my car since it had been parked but it would turn on like nothing . But I’ll check out the wiring more closely. I’ll let you know ! Thank you !
Thanks to you I finally replaced the ignition switch on my husband's 1997 Firebird. The process was a bit different, but I used your video as the primary tutor. Thank you very much.
I have spent weeks trying to figure out why my car won't start and I think this video was the answer I've been looking for. super helpful, thank you so much!
Great video, only one I can find. Everyone describes ignition switch,, but they are changing the lock cylinder instead.. Thanks for making this detailed video on a gen 4 Camaro-Firebird. I will have to tackle this task when I get the part.
You got down with it sir. I have the same problem. At first I thought it was my lock cylinder slipping i had to wiggle it to get it to start. I replaced it and worked a little better but not like it's supposed to. Left me stranded 3days later i couldn't start it. I wiggled the rod going to that ignition switch down there and it fires right up. I can't get it to shut down though unless I wiggle that rod some more. Needless to say its time to replace that switch thank you for this awesome video!
A great job showing, describing and solving what has to be the worst placement for a critical part ever devised, making what should be a simple remove-and-replace an absolute horror show of a task. And it seems Chevy used this same switch and placement in almost all of its vehicles for over 20 years! Just atrocious...even with your excellent instructions it took me hours of struggling to get it out and back in. I have good size fingers on a large hand, not the right combo for this job. Like you, I cut my teeth on sixties Mustangs and still can't fathom why over the years everything had to get so incredibly complicated. And thanks so much for mentioning that the only way to get the back plug out of the switch is to simultaneously press in *both* tabs on the underside while pulling on it.Even knowing this, it was still almost impossible to do within the confines of the space available for one, much less two fingers to go. What... one release tab on a single plug just wasn't expensive enough? There had to be two? Right next to each other? Un-b-freakin'-liveable...
Thank you for showing us how to change an ignition switch in a 93 to a 98 Camaro and ignition switch just went out in my 93 Z28 and watching this video trust me it saved me and yeah who Engineers a switch like that if I can change the plugs in an LT1 which is what I have I can do the ignition switch I like how you are mentioned the flux capacitor yeah I wouldn't surprise me in those cars😇😇😇😇😇💝💝💝THANK YOU
That is the same switch setup on my 1988 Firebird. Same column, just different cosmetic parts up front. I'm watching to see how did you release the wire cable from the old ignition switch? I'm headed out to try again. That wire is to lock the automatic shifter when ignition is locked. I honestly don't even need it, since car is converted from auto to manual and auto shifter is gone. But, since I'm installing the switch I want to do it correctly. Oh Im in thee to replace the 'dimmer' hi/lo beam switch (that other rod on the left). If that goes, you can lose both hi and low beams.
I think this has been an issue for awhile but also now the sector isn't grabbing the actuator to pull the switch.. This is fun fun, I tell you. Replaced the starter not 6 months ago, I'm on the verge of just buying a used complete steering column, that looked rather easy to replace compared to all these little parts.
Next time i'd suggest disconnecting the battery and the air bag (yellow connectors) before dropping the steering column. But thanks for making the video. My switch only failed when it was cold. I'd have to restart the car at least 10 times before the car warmed up then it worked without a hitch.
Had that switch go bad and the only way to get her started was to tilt the s wheel to a particular position in order to start it...also on cold days it would act up also.
The rod does not engage the flux capacitor. It slides the swith to on/start/acc. This has been the GM set up for a couple decades to locate the key to the column. It's not complicated, just unfamiliar too you.
I just tried to do mines following your video and that did you tighten up the 5/16 bolt first or the rear I was only able to install the screw and a bolt on the front
Fuck this was my issue! Thanks 🙏 my ignition rod is loose, took it back apart again and the rod fell completely out! Started it manually sticking a pick in the hole as you explain at 13:18 while had the key in the ignition at the same time obviously.
Hi Commando what are the symptoms of the ignition switch? I replaced my key lock cylinder already thinking of why my 94 camaro won't start, there's no resistance on my key lock cylinder to try and start it and my old key lock cylinder did the same thing, just turns freely. And I have no dash lights or no gauges come on. And battery is fully charged, radio n headlights do come on. Thank you on any advice.
Ik this video was posted 6y ago but maybe I'll get a response ... I put a new switch in and the car still won't start. Doesn't have any power no dash lights or anything I really need help
Working on a 92 camaro rs somebody swapped a 350 TBI into and I cannot get the wheel, shifter, or the tumbler to move. So I’m just going to bypass the tumbler altogether for a toggle system. Is this a logical idea or just a waste of time?? Will it fix the wheel and shifter lock problem?
I have issue where it randomly just clicks once and doesn't start but all the dash lights come on and stay on you can hear the fuel pump priming. Sometimes a 2nd try will turn her over or it may take 5-30+ tries. It doesn't cut out the way yours did. Would my issue also be the ignition starter switch? I did replace the starter and solenoid still same issue. New battery as well.
@@jhuntosgarage yeah I did try 2 different started and tried a new solenoid with my orginal still same result. I will get the ignition switch and recheck the grounds.
Good question. Got stuck at a gas station the day before and just messed around with switch until it worked, took about 20 mins. This was my best guess knowing how those switches are. Glad I could help!
Well the starter seemed to engage every now and then, It just wasn't staying started after starter engagement, and sometimes would do nothing at all?... correct op?
I've got a third gen, and I believe that switched smoked out today. Now I've got no crank, and the starter enable relay (VATS) buzzes and won't enable the solenoid.
@@jhuntosgarage I'm pretty sure it is, but only the crank part of it. In run position, I have power to everything. I was able to jump it by putting key in run position and injecting 12v at the starter enable relay, it fired right up. That let me move the car without issue, until I can get the part and install it. I can't find any damaged wiring anywhere, but smoke poured out from under the dash yesterday morning, the starter also engaged itself while the engine was running. After that, no crank with the key. It looks like only the feed from the switch to the starter enable relay is so weak, that the relay just buzzes as it gets to turn on the solenoid. I'm hoping the connectors aren't melted at the switch, I don't know yet. Thanks for making this video.
Did u change it out ? If so did it work. I swapped mine out finally relized it was prob. But now car wont start at all. Have power everything comes on when key is turned to start no crank nothing!!
I'm gonna try this on my 94 camaro hopefully it solves my issue otherwise I'm tearing out the VATS and the computer and running toggle switches to all the electronics and a button to start
@@gabrieljackson4995 Warning the electrical systems in these cars may be confusing if you ever had any work done on it involving the electrical. Some of the wires weren't ran right so I ended up having to tear everything out so I could re run the electric and set up the toggles since the ignition switch didn't work. I've still got to get the button but all of the toggles work well and was overall easier than reaching the top of the steering column with a socket wrench after dropping the steering wheel without taking out the seat so it went all the way to the floor.
@@WAYOFLIFE2.2 yea I no luck either someone before me messed up the wiring bad now I’m stuck paying for it. Is there a harness I can replace and wat is it called if you know
Fantastic video, have exactly the same problem, starts and dies straight away. I know know what to order and how to replace it, looks like a mare though. A little winter job for me here in the UK!
YOU FORGOT TO INFORM EVERYONE TO REMOVE THE THREE SCREWS SECURING THE STEERING COLUMN TO THE FIRE WALL INSIDE THE CAR. i have the same issue and tackled this today using your video.. my question to you WAS this.-------->>>> how did you get your column to drop so far down? your column is clearly below the bottom of the dash brd. And at 10:40-10:45 ish mark in your video it looks like you got 5-6" between the bottom of the threaded bolt and the steering column bracket... my column will not drop below the dash, it will not even clear the bolt for the steering column bracket. REGUARDLESS of the amount of pulling and tugging i do i can not get the cloumn to fall as low as yours.. did you do something that you forgot to mention in your video.?------------YES YOU DID FORGET TO NFORM EVERYONE TO REMOVE THE THREE SCREWS SECURING THE STEERING COLUMN TO THE FIRE WALL INSIDE THE CAR.. great video tho, it help me alot except for that one detail......it cost me a few hours of head scratching.
I think my blue switch is roasted. Connect the blue and black to the ignition switch and all power turns on without key action. Can not get car to start..
please people don't buy Colum ignition switches made by STANDARD , I installed it on my 1991 GMC 1500 , and it wouldn't allow the rod to go into the spring to start , the front elec connector was defectives it wouldn't allow to push against the return spring , I should of went to GM DELCO parts. thanks China.
Very good point. Sometimes we are learning on the fly as is the case with this video. Editing for the sake of the viewer is usually the major consideration. This one was that scenario since I didn't want to do this twice. Most of my other videos are not this scenario. Thanks for your feedback and I hope the info was helpful.
I hope you get to see this comment. I know you said that you’re not a mechanic but you’ve probably dealt with my situation. So when I turn the key on my 99 z28 Camaro it just clicks . When I put the key in the lights turn on but when I try to start the car all the lights go out. I tested the starter at orielys and they said it was good . I bought a new battery to just in case & ignition switch too that you showed in the video and it still does the same thing . My dad ran a cable underneath the car from the starter to the battery and it turns on for a brief second . It will stay on if you consistently spray starter fluid into the intake. So obviously there isn’t any fuel running . We can hear the fuel pump turn on when you place the key too. I also replaced the fuel filter . So I’m stuck and out of options . Is it the key? Is it the computer? I’m hope that anyone can give me an honest answer. The car turned on fine like a couple of months ago but now it doesn’t even turn the motor over . Just a simple click . Please help ☹️
Wow. Whatever it is it's probably simple like a relay or fuse. Start with those and check all wiring. Especially look for signs of mice. They can cause havoc if they've chewed a wiring harness. Also, check all of your grounds, engine, battery, etc. Hope this helps!
@@jhuntosgarage Will do . And yes there was a lot of mice in my car since it had been parked but it would turn on like nothing . But I’ll check out the wiring more closely. I’ll let you know ! Thank you !
“Something else I wanted to do today” 😂 all of us
Thanks to you I finally replaced the ignition switch on my husband's 1997 Firebird. The process was a bit different, but I used your video as the primary tutor. Thank you very much.
I have spent weeks trying to figure out why my car won't start and I think this video was the answer I've been looking for. super helpful, thank you so much!
Great video, only one I can find. Everyone describes ignition switch,, but they are changing the lock cylinder instead.. Thanks for making this detailed video on a gen 4 Camaro-Firebird. I will have to tackle this task when I get the part.
Thanks for the feedback! Best of luck to you!
You got down with it sir. I have the same problem. At first I thought it was my lock cylinder slipping i had to wiggle it to get it to start. I replaced it and worked a little better but not like it's supposed to. Left me stranded 3days later i couldn't start it. I wiggled the rod going to that ignition switch down there and it fires right up. I can't get it to shut down though unless I wiggle that rod some more. Needless to say its time to replace that switch thank you for this awesome video!
A great job showing, describing and solving what has to be the worst placement for a critical part ever devised, making what should be a simple remove-and-replace an absolute horror show of a task. And it seems Chevy used this same switch and placement in almost all of its vehicles for over 20 years! Just atrocious...even with your excellent instructions it took me hours of struggling to get it out and back in. I have good size fingers on a large hand, not the right combo for this job. Like you, I cut my teeth on sixties Mustangs and still can't fathom why over the years everything had to get so incredibly complicated. And thanks so much for mentioning that the only way to get the back plug out of the switch is to simultaneously press in *both* tabs on the underside while pulling on it.Even knowing this, it was still almost impossible to do within the confines of the space available for one, much less two fingers to go. What... one release tab on a single plug just wasn't expensive enough? There had to be two? Right next to each other? Un-b-freakin'-liveable...
We long for simpler times in so many ways. I feel you. Thanks for commenting and your feedback.
The other rod is for high beam for lights .to the switch
I'm praying this fixes mine
Same! Good luck. 🙏
The wire at the manifold is what controls that make sure it's not burnt
Thank you for showing us how to change an ignition switch in a 93 to a 98 Camaro and ignition switch just went out in my 93 Z28 and watching this video trust me it saved me and yeah who Engineers a switch like that if I can change the plugs in an LT1 which is what I have I can do the ignition switch I like how you are mentioned the flux capacitor yeah I wouldn't surprise me in those cars😇😇😇😇😇💝💝💝THANK YOU
Glad I could help and thanks for watching!
LIFE SAVER 😇😇💝💝
This video may have saved me a ton of time and frustration.
That is the same switch setup on my 1988 Firebird. Same column, just different cosmetic parts up front. I'm watching to see how did you release the wire cable from the old ignition switch? I'm headed out to try again. That wire is to lock the automatic shifter when ignition is locked. I honestly don't even need it, since car is converted from auto to manual and auto shifter is gone. But, since I'm installing the switch I want to do it correctly. Oh Im in thee to replace the 'dimmer' hi/lo beam switch (that other rod on the left). If that goes, you can lose both hi and low beams.
I think this has been an issue for awhile but also now the sector isn't grabbing the actuator to pull the switch.. This is fun fun, I tell you. Replaced the starter not 6 months ago, I'm on the verge of just buying a used complete steering column, that looked rather easy to replace compared to all these little parts.
Next time i'd suggest disconnecting the battery and the air bag (yellow connectors) before dropping the steering column. But thanks for making the video. My switch only failed when it was cold. I'd have to restart the car at least 10 times before the car warmed up then it worked without a hitch.
Holy shit you just said happy for of July and what are the odds it’ll be the 4th in 3 days
Like broken clock. 😁
Had that switch go bad and the only way to get her started was to tilt the s wheel to a particular position in order to start it...also on cold days it would act up also.
The rod does not engage the flux capacitor. It slides the swith to on/start/acc. This has been the GM set up for a couple decades to locate the key to the column. It's not complicated, just unfamiliar too you.
Needed this for a 78 gmc Sierra, prob need that blinker switch too ty
Add extra earths .check temp sender .under drivers side head on the block
And fuses
I learned some stuff . Not bad thank you
Thank you Sir!
Really helpful. Thanks for this.
to get that cable out without the screws turn the key into on position and it allows you to pull the switch out
Thanks for your input!
how did you get the column to drop so low mine doesn't seem to wanna drop down like yours I removed the 2 bracket bolts and the 3 on the firewall
Good question. Seems like they should be the same. I'm sorry, not sure what to tell you.
I just tried to do mines following your video and that did you tighten up the 5/16 bolt first or the rear I was only able to install the screw and a bolt on the front
i believe the pin was holding the switch in place till you put that cable/wire in place then you pull pin
Fuck this was my issue! Thanks 🙏 my ignition rod is loose, took it back apart again and the rod fell completely out! Started it manually sticking a pick in the hole as you explain at 13:18 while had the key in the ignition at the same time obviously.
Hi Commando what are the symptoms of the ignition switch? I replaced my key lock cylinder already thinking of why my 94 camaro won't start, there's no resistance on my key lock cylinder to try and start it and my old key lock cylinder did the same thing, just turns freely. And I have no dash lights or no gauges come on. And battery is fully charged, radio n headlights do come on. Thank you on any advice.
@rockandrolf8611 I am having the same issue. No dash lights or gauges,will not crank, but radio, and headlights and such, do come on.
This just happened to my 93 z28 where can I get a replacement for it? From wat year should I get it from ?
Most parts stores or Rock Auto carry these. Get the switch for your year car. Thanks
Second rod is for high beam switch.
no, it is for the flux capacitor hahahahaha
Ik this video was posted 6y ago but maybe I'll get a response ... I put a new switch in and the car still won't start. Doesn't have any power no dash lights or anything I really need help
This sounds like a problem closer to the battery, like a fuse or relay. Hit me up on Instagram and we can discuss further. J_huntos_garage.
If you dont have gauges it's going to be 40 or 50 amp fuse up front
Great video !
There's more vid's on this car on the Project Oddball playlist. Check it out and don't forget to subscribe. Thanks for watching!
mine actually locked up and the rack and sector gear wouldn't move
How did you get your column to push down so far mine won't go down at far
Hi Richard. Thanks for watching. There's 2 nuts for the column and 2 nuts for the bracket. That should be the only nuts holding it up.
Working on a 92 camaro rs somebody swapped a 350 TBI into and I cannot get the wheel, shifter, or the tumbler to move. So I’m just going to bypass the tumbler altogether for a toggle system. Is this a logical idea or just a waste of time?? Will it fix the wheel and shifter lock problem?
Wow. No, I would spend some more time researching that issue. Almost sounds like the key is wrong.
I have issue where it randomly just clicks once and doesn't start but all the dash lights come on and stay on you can hear the fuel pump priming. Sometimes a 2nd try will turn her over or it may take 5-30+ tries. It doesn't cut out the way yours did. Would my issue also be the ignition starter switch? I did replace the starter and solenoid still same issue. New battery as well.
Ignition switch is suspect, for sure but grounds and connections can be as well. I wouldn't rule out a faulty "new" starter either.
@@jhuntosgarage yeah I did try 2 different started and tried a new solenoid with my orginal still same result. I will get the ignition switch and recheck the grounds.
Hey man - thank you so much for the video. How did you initially rule out the starter?
Good question. Got stuck at a gas station the day before and just messed around with switch until it worked, took about 20 mins. This was my best guess knowing how those switches are. Glad I could help!
Well the starter seemed to engage every now and then, It just wasn't staying started after starter engagement, and sometimes would do nothing at all?... correct op?
@@jhuntosgarage mine does same thing, replaced starter twice to make sure now gonna try this
I've got a third gen, and I believe that switched smoked out today. Now I've got no crank, and the starter enable relay (VATS) buzzes and won't enable the solenoid.
This switch could be it.
@@jhuntosgarage I'm pretty sure it is, but only the crank part of it. In run position, I have power to everything. I was able to jump it by putting key in run position and injecting 12v at the starter enable relay, it fired right up. That let me move the car without issue, until I can get the part and install it. I can't find any damaged wiring anywhere, but smoke poured out from under the dash yesterday morning, the starter also engaged itself while the engine was running. After that, no crank with the key. It looks like only the feed from the switch to the starter enable relay is so weak, that the relay just buzzes as it gets to turn on the solenoid. I'm hoping the connectors aren't melted at the switch, I don't know yet. Thanks for making this video.
get the vats bypass module by gator thank me later
@@smokerslounge8880 VATS is working fine, but the ignition switch shorts internally when in the crank position.
Did u change it out ? If so did it work. I swapped mine out finally relized it was prob. But now car wont start at all. Have power everything comes on when key is turned to start no crank nothing!!
I'm gonna try this on my 94 camaro hopefully it solves my issue otherwise I'm tearing out the VATS and the computer and running toggle switches to all the electronics and a button to start
Same thing I’m doing tomorrow if it don’t work I’m going to do the same lol on my 95 caprice
@@gabrieljackson4995 Warning the electrical systems in these cars may be confusing if you ever had any work done on it involving the electrical. Some of the wires weren't ran right so I ended up having to tear everything out so I could re run the electric and set up the toggles since the ignition switch didn't work. I've still got to get the button but all of the toggles work well and was overall easier than reaching the top of the steering column with a socket wrench after dropping the steering wheel without taking out the seat so it went all the way to the floor.
@@WAYOFLIFE2.2 yea I no luck either someone before me messed up the wiring bad now I’m stuck paying for it. Is there a harness I can replace and wat is it called if you know
get the GATOR vats bypass module if youre having vat security lights no start issues...thank me later
What's the part number on the switch.i think I have the same prob o. My 99 firebird
Pretty sure it came from Autozone.
how did you get the steering column to drop like that? mines stays in place
Two bolts hold a bracket, u shaped.
Thank you!
My black wire that’s in back if the ignition switch won’t come out as far as yours reasons ?
I'll check on that. Stay tuned.
Fantastic video, have exactly the same problem, starts and dies straight away. I know know what to order and how to replace it, looks like a mare though. A little winter job for me here in the UK!
Ed Bilboe Glad to help Ed! Surprised to hear you have these Camaros over there. Check me out on Facebook John Hunt (same logo). Send some pics!
YOU FORGOT TO INFORM EVERYONE TO REMOVE THE THREE SCREWS SECURING THE STEERING COLUMN TO THE FIRE WALL INSIDE THE CAR. i have the same issue and tackled this today using your video.. my question to you WAS this.-------->>>> how did you get your column to drop so far down? your column is clearly below the bottom of the dash brd. And at 10:40-10:45 ish mark in your video it looks like you got 5-6" between the bottom of the threaded bolt and the steering column bracket... my column will not drop below the dash, it will not even clear the bolt for the steering column bracket. REGUARDLESS of the amount of pulling and tugging i do i can not get the cloumn to fall as low as yours.. did you do something that you forgot to mention in your video.?------------YES YOU DID FORGET TO NFORM EVERYONE TO REMOVE THE THREE SCREWS SECURING THE STEERING COLUMN TO THE FIRE WALL INSIDE THE CAR.. great video tho, it help me alot except for that one detail......it cost me a few hours of head scratching.
It is quite possible I may have missed something.
Pshhhh I got tiny hands. So I just monkey myself in. But it would have been much easier!!!! Now to get my car to START
I think my blue switch is roasted. Connect the blue and black to the ignition switch and all power turns on without key action. Can not get car to start..
Gabriel Calkins Yeah, sounds like it is. If I remember right the switch is not very eexpensive.
Prob know by now but that plastic plug pops out so it will slide
Do you live in Mississippi
I do not. Texas.
please people don't buy Colum ignition switches made by STANDARD , I installed it on my 1991 GMC 1500 , and it wouldn't allow the rod to go into the spring to start , the front elec connector was defectives it wouldn't allow to push against the return spring , I should of went to GM DELCO parts. thanks China.
If you’re gonna make a video showing how to do something show how to do it don’t just cut to the parts where you’ve already done it
Very good point. Sometimes we are learning on the fly as is the case with this video. Editing for the sake of the viewer is usually the major consideration. This one was that scenario since I didn't want to do this twice. Most of my other videos are not this scenario. Thanks for your feedback and I hope the info was helpful.