I stopped using K&N filters years ago after I opened the k&n HP-1004 oil filter that I used use and saw exactly what you saw in this video. The z418st syntec equivalent is way more and better filter media.
G'day mate. Thx for a great video. I am a fully qualified mechanic and work in a very busy workshop. I agree 100% with you.For my money the Ryco Syntec all day everyday.No comparison.We get a lot of young blokes with high performance cars requesting K&N filters and as i suspected all marketing spin and hype.By the way we dont use Ryco. Our everyday trade filter is Sakura and for the money they get the job done.I must admit that the Ryco Syntec looks a great quality unit. We might start to recommend them to our customers with european cars. Thanks once again. Cheers
Had a small oil leak and found it was from one of the welds for the hex bit... lucky I monitor oil levels frequently so it didn't run low. Stuff K&N, I'm going back to OEM filters.
Cheers for the video, answered my question, going to buy the Ryco ST filter. Im guessing it would be better for a car running thich oil with upgraded high flow oil pump that also runs on e85. The mesh seems like a be sell to me.
Recently noticed that the last K&N filter I purchased for our Camry was made in Mexico and at least 5 or 6mm shorter than the old USA product. Took it back to Supercheap and swapped for a Ryco that was 20mm longer. Is there anything even bigger available to suit the Camry. Also use Donaldson filters on my Landcruiser 1hz. How do you rate them ?
Seems like from your videos (besides the Fleetguard's since you're basically sponsoring them): Economy - Mann Midrange - Aeroflow Top - Ryco ST Interesting to note that Sakura produces Fleetguard filters, yet they're quite different in design and the loose coil in the Sakura is not the best considering how much better the Fleetguard construction is. The Repco/Proselect/NAPA are identical and not terrible (however there is a video of a tear in join on the material after use with the Proselect on RUclips which meant oil just went right through unfiltered, so that's put me off those three). The Cooper/Wesfil/Ryco are all pretty much identical, but the price point ranges hugely due to branding, and the holes in the material is pretty poor really. It'd be interesting to see used versions of these filters to see if the holes developed further etc. K&N is clear branding and certainly isn't what it states on the box, and so many people keep tightening it using the hex nut which breaks it, but regardless of people's stupidity, the Aeroflow would be better and cheaper. But for ultimate performance, clear winner is the Ryco ST, but unless you can get it for an affordable price, it's not worth it to most consumers and/or mechanic shops. Trickle your Fleetguard products throughout these too which are not bad for what they are, just harder to find and price point varies across suppliers.
Is there a way to keep the oil from bypassing and locking up the bypass valve? I have to do a 20 to 30 minute cam break in on my new motor at 2500 rpm and I do not want the oil to bypass. Any suggestions.
Hi Herb, I reckon the only thing you could do is find a filter with the same thread and approx gasket size that has no bypass valve in it. What number filter do you normally use?
@@departmentoffiltration6021 I have a 74 pontiac 400 and all pontiac blocks use the same filter. If we use a performance oil pump with higher pressures, is the filter being bypassed all the time except at an idle? Lol. Is there such a thing as a filter with no bypass valve?
A quick look at you car online says that a Wix 51258 is the filter that fits and the wix website lists that it has no bypass valve. Many filters do not have the valve and rely only on the pressure bypass in the block itself. Filter bypass valves work on differential pressure not actual pressure. That is they work on the difference in pressure on one side of the filter to the other. If the pressure drop is to great then it will open. It may stay closed under very high pressure as long as that pressure is similar on both sides of the filter. But as for you you don't need to worry about it anyway. Just check that the brand filter you get has no bypass valve as some companies will list a cross reference to that wix number that does have a bypass valve and replaces other part numbers aswell. So just double check before you buy on the manufactures website.
@@departmentoffiltration6021 Thank you very much, that explains it even better that its differential pressure. I just wanted a way so it doesn't bypass the filter for break in, which means as soon as the new engine starts, I have to keep it running at 2500 rpm for 20 to 30 minutes to break in the cam and let the rings seat. I want to make sure that any small metal from the break in gets trapped in the filter. I just looked up that Wix and will order a few! Thanks!
have used the older silver series with good results----the new made ones are not like the old ones though---but the gold series have been leaking around the nut---[i have read on user reviews]--sure don't want to buy one and find out@@departmentoffiltration6021
That's no good Terry, it's hard when you pay alot for something and to expect it to be the best, but they turn out just as good if not worse than average stuff.
Edgardo, a quick google search will bring you a wealth of info on k&n filter being banned by motorsports officials because of leaks and offical realls relating to a large amount of leaking filters
Hey mate, thanks for the suggestion however these filters are a bit out of the price range for my videos. However I would love to get my hands on one and take a look at it!
This review presents of clear facts as they are, not a biase view based on brand. Yes k&n HAS had a good name and if you trust just the name then no worries, but would I ever use this particular filter on my own car after seeing what it is made of, no matter what brand it is? no.
@@departmentoffiltration6021 Great review of the K&N. I agree. This filter is over-hyped and not what it used to be or certainly what they are charging for. There are some good features about it, but nothing outstanding. I don't really like any K&N products. The air filters pass a lot of dirt. These 'Gold' oil filters use a cellulose media without any more than mediocre filtering ability. The can is sturdy, but nothing spectacular about the media. And that sheetmetal nut is a stupid marketing gimmick. It was designed as a 'racing' filter and those requirements are different than a street vehicle and compromises are made in other areas, such as filtering ability in order to get flow rates up. All in all a lot of money for a lot of nothing. Purolator 'Boss' or Fram 'Titanium' blow this filter away. And cost less. Lots of K&N fanboys but objectively that K&N can and nut do nothing when the real 'business' part of a filter comes down to the media.
Even their air filters are terrible according to one video by an engineer who tested it with a particle detector and the cement powder went through the filter during the test, which was almost as bad as no air filter and much worse than normal air filters.
@@JulianKapa They have a great marketing dept. They were a popular upgrade on trucks a few years ago, especially diesel trucks. They are known to wipe out the turbine inlet and intake system and accelerate piston ring wear. Looks like the turbo's were sandblasted. They were originally made for racing where they didn't care because they would frequently teardown an engine after a few runs and money wasn't a concern.
The purpose for the whole is to secure the filter with safety wire to ensure it won't loosen - common practice in the aviation maintenance industry.
Indeed it is, thanks for your input G R
I stopped using K&N filters years ago after I opened the k&n HP-1004 oil filter that I used use and saw exactly what you saw in this video. The z418st syntec equivalent is way more and better filter media.
G'day mate. Thx for a great video.
I am a fully qualified mechanic and work in a very busy workshop.
I agree 100% with you.For my money the Ryco Syntec all day everyday.No comparison.We get a lot of young blokes with high performance cars requesting K&N filters and as i suspected all marketing spin and hype.By the way we dont use Ryco.
Our everyday trade filter is Sakura and for the money they get the job done.I must admit that the Ryco Syntec looks a great quality unit.
We might start to recommend them to our customers with european cars. Thanks once again. Cheers
Thanks mate, I'm glad you like the videos. Thanks for that Info about what you use
I use sakura in my workshop they are perfect fine. For the European car i use Mann when available
Had a small oil leak and found it was from one of the welds for the hex bit... lucky I monitor oil levels frequently so it didn't run low.
Stuff K&N, I'm going back to OEM filters.
Cheers for the video, answered my question, going to buy the Ryco ST filter. Im guessing it would be better for a car running thich oil with upgraded high flow oil pump that also runs on e85. The mesh seems like a be sell to me.
Recently noticed that the last K&N filter I purchased for our Camry was made in Mexico and at least 5 or 6mm shorter than the old USA product. Took it back to Supercheap and swapped for a Ryco that was 20mm longer. Is there anything even bigger available to suit the Camry. Also use Donaldson filters on my Landcruiser 1hz. How do you rate them ?
@petermincher4063 I Highly recommend Donaldson you should be able to get a Donaldson filter to suit your carry aswell
Seems like from your videos (besides the Fleetguard's since you're basically sponsoring them):
Economy - Mann
Midrange - Aeroflow
Top - Ryco ST
Interesting to note that Sakura produces Fleetguard filters, yet they're quite different in design and the loose coil in the Sakura is not the best considering how much better the Fleetguard construction is. The Repco/Proselect/NAPA are identical and not terrible (however there is a video of a tear in join on the material after use with the Proselect on RUclips which meant oil just went right through unfiltered, so that's put me off those three). The Cooper/Wesfil/Ryco are all pretty much identical, but the price point ranges hugely due to branding, and the holes in the material is pretty poor really. It'd be interesting to see used versions of these filters to see if the holes developed further etc. K&N is clear branding and certainly isn't what it states on the box, and so many people keep tightening it using the hex nut which breaks it, but regardless of people's stupidity, the Aeroflow would be better and cheaper. But for ultimate performance, clear winner is the Ryco ST, but unless you can get it for an affordable price, it's not worth it to most consumers and/or mechanic shops. Trickle your Fleetguard products throughout these too which are not bad for what they are, just harder to find and price point varies across suppliers.
Ryco filter are not sold in Europe 😢
Is there a way to keep the oil from bypassing and locking up the bypass valve? I have to do a 20 to 30 minute cam break in on my new motor at 2500 rpm and I do not want the oil to bypass.
Any suggestions.
Hi Herb, I reckon the only thing you could do is find a filter with the same thread and approx gasket size that has no bypass valve in it. What number filter do you normally use?
@@departmentoffiltration6021 I have a 74 pontiac 400 and all pontiac blocks use the same filter. If we use a performance oil pump with higher pressures, is the filter being bypassed all the time except at an idle? Lol. Is there such a thing as a filter with no bypass valve?
A quick look at you car online says that a Wix 51258 is the filter that fits and the wix website lists that it has no bypass valve. Many filters do not have the valve and rely only on the pressure bypass in the block itself.
Filter bypass valves work on differential pressure not actual pressure. That is they work on the difference in pressure on one side of the filter to the other. If the pressure drop is to great then it will open. It may stay closed under very high pressure as long as that pressure is similar on both sides of the filter.
But as for you you don't need to worry about it anyway. Just check that the brand filter you get has no bypass valve as some companies will list a cross reference to that wix number that does have a bypass valve and replaces other part numbers aswell. So just double check before you buy on the manufactures website.
@@departmentoffiltration6021 Thank you very much, that explains it even better that its differential pressure.
I just wanted a way so it doesn't bypass the filter for break in, which means as soon as the new engine starts, I have to keep it running at 2500 rpm for 20 to 30 minutes to break in the cam and let the rings seat. I want to make sure that any small metal from the break in gets trapped in the filter.
I just looked up that Wix and will order a few! Thanks!
No worries, thanks very much
some k&n oil filters have been leaking around the nut--might check on this info
Have they really Terry, that's no good at all.
have used the older silver series with good results----the new made ones are not like the old ones though---but the gold series have been leaking around the nut---[i have read on user reviews]--sure don't want to buy one and find out@@departmentoffiltration6021
That's no good Terry, it's hard when you pay alot for something and to expect it to be the best, but they turn out just as good if not worse than average stuff.
probably beacuse you used the top nut to tight the filter!! That nut is to be use only on removal.
Edgardo, a quick google search will bring you a wealth of info on k&n filter being banned by motorsports officials because of leaks and offical realls relating to a large amount of leaking filters
Try pure power oil filters next
Hey mate, thanks for the suggestion however these filters are a bit out of the price range for my videos. However I would love to get my hands on one and take a look at it!
The same one I bought was made in Mexico. Hmm looked like they moved thir manufacturing
K&N's garbage IMO
Bro K&N oil filter is top filter out there. Bad review
This review presents of clear facts as they are, not a biase view based on brand. Yes k&n HAS had a good name and if you trust just the name then no worries, but would I ever use this particular filter on my own car after seeing what it is made of, no matter what brand it is? no.
@@departmentoffiltration6021 Great review of the K&N. I agree. This filter is over-hyped and not what it used to be or certainly what they are charging for. There are some good features about it, but nothing outstanding. I don't really like any K&N products. The air filters pass a lot of dirt. These 'Gold' oil filters use a cellulose media without any more than mediocre filtering ability. The can is sturdy, but nothing spectacular about the media. And that sheetmetal nut is a stupid marketing gimmick. It was designed as a 'racing' filter and those requirements are different than a street vehicle and compromises are made in other areas, such as filtering ability in order to get flow rates up. All in all a lot of money for a lot of nothing. Purolator 'Boss' or Fram 'Titanium' blow this filter away. And cost less.
Lots of K&N fanboys but objectively that K&N can and nut do nothing when the real 'business' part of a filter comes down to the media.
citation: (crackpipe)
Even their air filters are terrible according to one video by an engineer who tested it with a particle detector and the cement powder went through the filter during the test, which was almost as bad as no air filter and much worse than normal air filters.
@@JulianKapa They have a great marketing dept. They were a popular upgrade on trucks a few years ago, especially diesel trucks. They are known to wipe out the turbine inlet and intake system and accelerate piston ring wear. Looks like the turbo's were sandblasted.
They were originally made for racing where they didn't care because they would frequently teardown an engine after a few runs and money wasn't a concern.