I agree with @Outback Outlaw....fueling up with dirty fuel! I would suggest this. 1) Using a fuel can; get a fuel sample from your regular fuel station and pour some into a mason jar and check for debris (could be the liner on the storage tank deteriorating) or 2) try a different fuel station, but using the same method, as above, to check again for contamination. Hope this helps.
It could be as simple as refuelling with dirty fuel. Fuel service stations are supposed to change out their filters regularly. Also if they don’t keep the tanks full condensation builds up contaminating the fuel. This is then passed onto the motorist. I would also check from the service stations you get fuel what their regimen is in maintaining their product. Although it might not be that, but over here we get contaminated fuel all the time.
One problem I have found here in OZ is that the real old servos are the cause for a lot of contaminated fuel. Back in the dark ages (70's ) the tanks were made of metal, usually straight steel. Overtime the steel starts to beak down and this is another reason for dirty fuel. The modern fuel tanks out here are polymer so the breaking down is minuscule.
I really like what you did to check fuel pressure. I am gonna keep that in mind for future tests. Like some other commenters said, I would def check the injectors, or just replace with that kinda mileage. You are doing it right with the trouble shooting. Keep up the great work my dude!
Nothing like having just under 2k cc’s of power and not being able to slam on it. You got this my man! PS sold my Roadmaster and am going for that Challenger next season!!
Like you said, air, fuel, spark. After that, it's compression and timing. Hang in there Brandon, you can do it. Your garage looks a lot like mine, three motorcycles in there, and only one is road worthy.
Hi, just come across your video, good checks really like everything you did. Things you missed, your fuel reg is sticking, should never have the pressure drop as you blip the throttle, you have high content of moisture in your fuel causing the filter to fail, the filter has an active element that reacts with moisture causing discoloration and blocks up. I just got my bike running right after not using it a few years, same issue as your one. Did the pump and filter, filter looked bad only had 5000km on it, the original filter looked brand new with 45000km which I replaced shortly before I stopped riding the bike as a daily. Needless to say the new pump and filter did nothing to improve performance. I overlooked the reg at this point. I added really good quality fuel system cleaner, and rode the bike, my reg was so stick was causing huge backfiring at certain throttle and rpm due to lack of fuel pressure, gave the bike a hard time for few hours. Eventually the reg got stuck on high pressure causing my idle to be 2200rpm. Rode the bike the following day with fresh fuel for few hours eventually all got back to normal. Reccomed fresh good fuel, ride the bike hard, pull over let it heat soak 15/30 min ride hard again/ Just ride the bike! I'm surprised and impressed with the quality of the 109r, minus 2nd gear and the final drive which I destroyed along with many rear tyres. Hope you have solved your bike issue buy now. Looking the video was posted a year ago. For the other readers out there, points I raised are facts I'm in the tradie 20years. Regards from Sydney AU.
Good process going through it all logically. I would have replaced the clutch too with those symptoms. Fuel filter gets discolored, that just looks like normal color. But your pump is good, don’t mess with it. My next step would be to clean the fuel injectors if you can (Seafoam in tank is a cheap way, but sometimes you need to pull them). Also check if the fuel lines are due to be replaced. I have a 2014 Triumph that they said to replace the fuel lines to the rail at 4 years. The bike only had 9000 miles on it, so I thought I would skip that. NOPE. They were literally breaking down internally and put little rubber pieces all in my injectors. So just check that. Does the bike have an ECU that needs the air sensor? Possible the sensor isn’t reading enough air when you dump it hard, so it is holding back fuel until the air catches up? I don’t know either. But this is great content and I applaud you taking the time to do the work. Good job.
Also: Some bikes can get a bit of vacuum built up in the tank during extended "high-rpm" (or highway) running - try a highway pull with the gas cap a little loose? (Mostly empty so you don't splash too much). If you can find a local race/speed shop, they *may* have an ultrasonic fuel injector cleaner. There was one close to me that I used about 6 years ago, it was VERY reasonable for my purposes (~$25 per injector, factor for inflation and location of course). Mine just took the bare injectors and they did the rest.
I’ve been told the fuel pump could check out as good on the pressure and still end up bad. Gonna pull everything off tonight and see what’s up. Probably will have a video out in it Sunday. All great tips, Peeps.
@@BrandonBicasso That makes sense. If it has a restriction (dirt in the wrong spot?) it could be able to make the static pressure but not be able to keep up with peak flow demand.
@@squish3r Well, I took it for a spin Sunday and ripped on it like a maniac. Had not a single hiccup. I needed to drain that fuel out anyway. My guess is there’s some gremlins inside of the fuel pump canister. I took it off when changing out the fuel filter the first time and took a peek but didn’t think anything else of it. I’ll find out for sure. I also know I didn’t want to spend the $200 on a new pump so I left it alone to just the filter. Which means when some of that funk passes through the pump down the rail, it could be hitting those injectors briefly causing the issue. Then, the injectors eventually pass the funk through the cylinder and it’s burned off.
You've gotten some great advice on potential feeling problems, is, if none of those options fails to clear your issue I would suggest working your way back through the wiring harness paying very close attention to any part of the harness you've manipulated during your maintenance. Sometimes the insulation gets brittle and then cracks slightly when manipulated And this in turn can bugger a signal Coming from a sensor which your fuel injection computer uses to determine how much fuel to feed the motorcycle and when. I don't envy you if this is the case because these kinds of problems can be completely infuriating to track down even for a professional who went to a specialized electronic school.
Top tier fuel is all I use. May cost a little more at the pump but it's well worth it in the long run because your fuel system stay clean. Also, adding marvel mystery oil to your tank every once and a while will assist the top tier fuel in keeping you fuel system running super clean.
My vote is for MAF sensor or equivalent. Run some sea foam thru it maybe? Try some 110 racing fuel or non ethanol gas. KN air filter? It seems maaaaybe it's a respiration issue(breathing) Check engine compression? I think uve already change spark plug and wires, no? Yeh maybe a bad load of gasoline jammed that filter. As a diesel driver I've learned that if the pumps is hella slow, dont fill up there, as that is indicative of a station not replacing the pump filters.. So I would put it past bad gas load. How this... remove filter, wash out tank... Fill up on non ethanol fuel from lowes/HD out a can. Do not reinstall filter... and test it. Install new filter test it.... Ps. I need to learn to not comment while watching vids but to wait till the end. :)
I thought about the sea foam definitely! I haven’t checked the MAF sensor but most of that is pretty clean. I’ll check it again. I do have KN filters. Cleaned those last time I did all of that maintenance. Haven’t checked the engine compression but did change all the plugs and verified the coils/wires were good. So many things can be at play 🤣
Bro, you're missing a big part of the picture. Your ecu needs accurate data from your throttle position sensor and your 2 IAP sensors to determine load. If one of those is glitchy its not going to pick up the throttle opening % accurately. It's not going to go into acceleration enrichment map areas. You gotta dig a little deeper here. Hit me back this is my area haha
Was waiting on you to chime in 🤣🤣🤣 I thought about the tps and the throttle body sync at one point. There’s a fuel processor on it (cobra fi2000) and it could be acting funky. I was gonna take the ecu out at some point and send it off for a flash so I didn’t need that anymore.
@@BrandonBicasso buddy! Throw the cobra over your left shoulder!!! That could be the problem right there. They do nothing positive. 100% get it flashed. BCS is the company to use over there
Someone else mentioned removing it as well. Def could have gotten wonky over the years. It’s one of those set it and forget it things that I haven’t touched in years.
@@BrandonBicasso even if it's working its 100% making things worse. They're based on a completely flawed premise of operation. Anything that promises "self tuning" is a gimmick. Toss it
Sounds like dirty fuel. Drain, rinse, inspect tank with camera to make sure coating isn't chipped and rust isn't forming. Then check injectors to see if clogged. Also check for vaccum leaks and bad electric connections on injectors
I'm wondering if your gas station got some kind of contamination in their storage tanks. Do you get gas for all your vehicles from the same place? And, if so, are you experiencing any difficulties with any of them? SOMETHING is causing that filter to turn black. I'll definitely be following this problem to see how you eventually solve it. By the way, you have explained and filmed the process you've gone through so far, excellently. As one bike owner who tries to do most of their own work, to another, you have my respect, Brandon. Peace
Preciate that Eric! I will definitely get to the bottom of it soon. What’s wild is the gas station I use (maybe 3 years) is very new compared to the places I’ve used before.
Brandon, I'm a 1/3 through this video and even here in Australia I can tell you what is wrong. 43,000 miles is a long way for you fuel injectors to work perfectly. The fuel filter you showed also tell me the you have been getting dirty fuel. Most of the time the fuel injectors will pump through without a problem however, now it's gotten to the stage the the injectors need cleaning or replacing. The first warning sign is when you give the throttle a fistful you get the starving of fuel. Just so you know I own a Yam Roadliner XV1900.
I have a feeling it's the fuel you're buying. If your filter is that bad that fast it's the fuel going in. Might ad some injecter cleaner for good measure. I put seafoam in every few tanks, seems to help a lot.
Put it back together with fresh spark plugs and go run it to reproduce the problem. Remove and inspect the plugs. Determine for sure that it is lean or rich. Posible issues could be cracked/ leaking intake manifold boots, intake air snorkel or filter clogged/collapsing,(mouse nest) TPS/other sensors out of range, or throttle not opening 100%... Good Luck.
Will have to test it all again at some point. This proved the fuel pump is getting what it needs, buuuuut the throttle test wasn't enough. Would get more info if I did that on the highway.
Had the same problem on my first victory that I brought used so I started using 91 octane gas and the problem declined never had that problem with my new Honda always put 91from day one.
After seeing this video and reading some of the comments, I'm taking my cobra f2000 off and getting my ecu flashed. Just replaced my fuel filter as well. Want to bad, but my bike seems a little sluggish at slow speed.
Definitely need a new fuel sock. How long has it been since you have serviced your air cleaners? Try running some fuel cleaner through the fuel system too. Put a bit more than recommended
I think it's the injectors...like I said"I think" I don't know for sure. Have you ever had the bike dyno test? I not saying Dyno testing is a practical to find a problem, but I think it can pin point air, and fuel weaknesses. Good luck, thanks for sharing, and I look forward to seeing the fix.
I’ve most likely missed an episode or two 😂 but have you tried the drive shaft? My VTX 1300 was experiencing the same issue. Once I changed the drive shaft fluid… man did I experience a significant change 🤷🏿♂️. The bike was taking off!!!
Does the beast stumble right was at after a cold start or after a little riding? I’ve got a couple ideas of what it could be. This sounds like a good reason for me to take a day trip to Montgomery soon.
Uhhh, it really rides fine until you ask for me throttle when it’s loaded on the highway. I thought the throttle body could be out of sync at one point too.
Could it be bad gas and maybe the just need a good cleaning? Every year when I store mine I add stable and fuel cleaner. When I start riding again I use the tank up and add new gas with more cleaner and Lucas Injector cleaner.
Are you getting stuttering or just when you turn the throttle the power doesn't get to the wheels? I had the latter and my mechanic just adjusted my clutch cable and problem solved
Mm, it’s stuttering. I hate I don’t have video on what it’s doing but it’s like traction control cutting in on the fuel when I’m throttling down. It sputters and eventually kicks in and goes.
Whenever i change a fuel filter that is attached to a fuel pump inside of a tank of a fuel injected bike....I always drain the tank and rinse out with new gas and carb cleaner and change out the fuel pump...especially if the bike is 10 years or older on a used bike....
HEY BRA,, I THINK YOU NEED TO CHECK YOUR AIR FILTERS AND YOU NEED TO HAVE YOUR COMPUTER FLASHED... I HAVE A M109R 2019 AND I WSA EXPERIENCING SOME OF THE SAME UNTIL I HAD MY COMPUTER FLASHED,, NOT ONLY DID THAT GET RID OF THE SUGGEST ACCELERATION, NOW MY BIKE IS MUCH FASTER THAN THE STOCK PERFORMANCE... LET ME KNOW IF THAT WORKS FOR YOU
The fuel filter will get dirty in one tank of gas, I would try cleaning the throttle bodies mines was running poorly and a good cleaning and it runs good, The other thing might be the clutch adjustment. Good luck
Hi thanks for your great videos do you have a link for when you did the valves and the clutch I am at present able to do my breaks oil change air filters spark blue that is it bu like to do my clutch and valve thanks.
I have a video on the clutches but it’s more of a reference. There’s a copy of the service manual in the description of that video though. I only checked my valves as they were still in spec. I’ll be taking the cams out next time but that won’t be for another few thousand miles. ruclips.net/video/ulSybaJPfyg/видео.html
When something goes wrong with your bikes, how do you typically figure out what the issue is? Googling through forums or calling a dealer? A buddy of mine suddenly had an acceleration issue with his bike and has no idea what happened to it.
Googling to see if someone else has the issue too. Then of course, checking things that could be the problem. Having a manual helps with that. I started checking the things that could be the problem and ruled out each component. But, just because something is ruled to be not be a problem, it still could cause intermittent issues.
Did you find the problem? Mine is doing this and before I go spending money I would like to research. I put injector cleaner in it but thats it so far.
Fuel controller had a severed ground so when I asked for more power on the top end, fuel controller was acting up. The ground was only holding by a few strands of copper on the battery. Should also check your gas cap seals and air filters.
My 5 cent - eliminate the easy checks first. 1. if some dirt ust\whatever is in the tank you will see it by draining some fuel _from the tank_ in a clean glass, swirl, let it stand for an hour to wait for sediment, slowly pour away 99% of it, wipe the rest with a clean paper towel. If the towel comes up even a bit dirty, drain it, get a camera in, look for rust\chipping. flush it with clean fuel, (while you are at it, get some clean fuel in a glass to see if your "clean" fuel is actually clean) repeat. I had drained rust flakes of 1-2 mm from one of the bikes I checked hehehe. 2. try a different gas station for a week. But, since you were talking about a Tennessee trip you took, I doubt that is an issue with that particular station. Still worth a shot though. 3.try some highly-volatile fuel system cleaners (branded as "valve cleaners" "fuel system cleaners" "injector cleaners" or whatever. Usually low-weight hydrocarbons. Its a bandaid rather then a sollution, but if you see a difference its something. 4. you said air is ok. What about the oxygen sensor on the exhaust side as someone probably already mentioned? They should run longer than these 15-20 years, but could be a cheap check. 5. you said sparkplugs are ok. check again, its quickly done and even replacing them is cheap. Also... If your conjecture that there is an issue with the fuel delivery is correct, then after the event you should be running lean for a moment. I might be wrong, but I would do a roadside sparkplug check (gun it, killswithch while it hesitates, coast to a stop, get the plugs out, check color. Both, because there might be an issue just with one cylinder.) 6. I second the suggestion on driveshaft oil change. again, quick and cheap hehehe. As I said, nothing from these will probably solve your problem. But, negative result is one step in the right direction. And, before I'll tackle expensive electronic/injector side I'd rather be damn sure that it is exactly that where the problem lies..
wait. 0.40, you said the revs go up but no power. If revs go up, the engine is fine, its powertrain, no? Also, imo, any issues with inconsistent fuel delivery will result in non-precise throttle-revs relation. Like, when you open it to 80% revs and keep the throttle, it will want to go up from that or drop not by much, but I'd say if it is constant within 20-50rpm then engine side is fine. On the warm engine. Might be wrong though, I remember that '21 HD I testdrove that couldn't keep its idle within 300rpm constant, was all over the place.
@@Kashak666 all great suggestions. And yes, the revs would jump but it wouldn’t put power down. Then another situation it felt like a fuel cut. I filmed something last night about it all but I had no problems with it Saturday. Beat on it and not a single issue. Fuel filter still looks overly dirty for one I just installed so I still think there’s an issue going on with the fuel system. Even if that is not the solution to the weird riding issues that’s going on. Like you said, those are still things to check and rule out. Glad the community is understanding of it all and offering solutions!
@@BrandonBicasso yes, that brown filter is definitely not ok. I dont know the fuel path on m109, but isnt the filter the first step after the tank? (tank->filter->pump->hoses->injectors as a simplified fuel path I mean) And, there would be no back-flow through the filter, so whatever dirt is on\in it came from the tank. Also, as a suggestion. You are getting a new filter probably anyways. Cut up the old one and look for visible particles. If you find anything - you are probably up for tank clean\seal. Inconsistent symptoms are the worse xD Keep digging, you'll find the issue)- and, keep us updated hehehe Aalso. Just read somewhere that it could be related to the cracking\deterioration on the inside of fuel hoses, but imo that is usually the issue on very old bikes that were sitting dry for way too long.
@@Kashak666 I thought about the hose between the tank and rail being junked. I think the fuel lines are supposed to be inspected every so many thousands of miles anyway. And the 109 doesn’t have a back flow through the filter. The regulator in the tank will pick up the fuel and dump it back so it’s all circulation inside the tank. And I will definitely cut up the old fuel filter. Didn’t think to do that!
The only thing worse then having one bike that is broke down….is having two bikes that are both broke down. 😭 good thing you have the victory to ride for a while!
What up Brandon! Yo you running that Gump Gas ⛽ bruh...lol but seriously your fuel filter is dirty in a short span due to running bad fuel. Are you running regular unleaded or premium. If there is any contamination from the gas you running you can bet its affecting your performance. At first my initial reaction was something is up with your transmission, but the way that fuel filter setup its probably a quick fix with a fuel flush and treatment and then fill her with some premium gas. (Used to ride in MGM too back in the day). Hope this is helpful to you. ✌🏾🤙🏿💪🏿
open the filter up and check it out, so it stumbles UNDER A LOAD not in neutral..... air fuel mixture, google your issue with Suzuki M109r stumbles under a load.
Someone else mentioned that off camera. Taking the fuel filter off, and running the bike but that brings the risk of clogging the fuel pump. And yeah, having it under load would make a difference. Learning!
if not there then check spark plugs - make sure the gaping is good, they are not full of carbon if so change them, not super wet if so there is something else that is wrong could be the plug wire not seating properly so that one isn't sparking if oily then it is something else that would required another tear down, injectors - make sure they too are cleaned out. I have had some success with just the carb/injector cleaners that are fuel additives a couple of tank fulls on older cars/trucks and motos, check to make sure your air box is on properly, the old honda shadow would literally DIE if there was too much air coming in.. cause if you put on a nice air cleaner and you didn't get a tune that could also be the issue with running out at higher speeds.. and then check all the hoes... I mean hoses lol gotta make sure they are sealed up nice and tight things do rattle off so check that and since we live in the colder weather stuff it helps to really check those fittings. keep up the fun vids and like how you are not afraid to just try something out.. cheers.
@@BrandonBicasso would you be able to check the Reservoir on the pump itself before the new one arrives? You may be able to take it down and check it. Who knows, you may end up with two pumps!
To my knowledge and quick observation, no. I’d expect the fuel pump assembly to have a bit of debris on it if that were the case. That’s not to say something isn’t floating around in there though.
I had an issue with my 16 Scout...I would ride it and all of a sudden it would shut off on me....I bought a pump online replaced it...it's running fine now...it would start with no problem run for a while then just bogg down and shut off...I would just replace the pump all together.
@@BrandonBicasso can't wait to see what the final verdict is...but I hope it's fixed for good ..... It wasn't a good feeling going 70mph -30mph on the highway.
An old engine maybe he doesn't like the ethanol, cheap shit brands of gasoline? Ride the Fuel tank empty up to 20 % and drain the rest. Then put a small amount of petrol in the tank and rinse it out again. Is it a carburated engine ,then clean the carburetor reservoir And possibly the rest to? When my bike starts its hibernation I drain the gas tank and then I put in a special petrol. That stuff stays stable for a whole year. Greetings from Holland ( Joop )
If the revs go up but you don't accelerate its a clutch issue. If on the other hand its a hesitation issue, then it's some kind of fuel issue, like clogged injectors, bad gas, air mixture problem, etc. Looks like you need to change gas stations.
No worries! Part of the fun for me is figuring out the problem and providing a solution. Plus, it can help someone else out there figure out their own issue.
You might double check your coils. My experience with Suzuki’s are the coils at least on the older models are marginal. They break down under load at higher rpm with time and mileage. The only way I know how to test them is on a machine that shows how far of a gap they will jump like a spark plug gap.
@@michaelowens1183 as for those, used a volt meter and tested them per the manual. All of them checked out as in spec but… that’s only testing them “that way”. Doesn’t mean they won’t act up when pinched or under a load. I won’t rule them out.
@@BrandonBicasso Hey, something else to think about, you said the valve adjustment was on the tight side of specs. You would be surprised how much a slightly tight exhaust valve would effect how an engine runs. I always checked valves in two positions.
2 things to check that will cause a stumble: injectors slightly clogged and a vacuum leak such as a tear in a rubber air intake boot
Haven’t checked the injectors but def worth looking in to.
Was gonna recommend both of those.
I agree with @Outback Outlaw....fueling up with dirty fuel! I would suggest this. 1) Using a fuel can; get a fuel sample from your regular fuel station and pour some into a mason jar and check for debris (could be the liner on the storage tank deteriorating) or 2) try a different fuel station, but using the same method, as above, to check again for contamination. Hope this helps.
It could be as simple as refuelling with dirty fuel. Fuel service stations are supposed to change out their filters regularly. Also if they don’t keep the tanks full condensation builds up contaminating the fuel. This is then passed onto the motorist. I would also check from the service stations you get fuel what their regimen is in maintaining their product. Although it might not be that, but over here we get contaminated fuel all the time.
Good idea. If this gas station is the culprit, I’d be surprised. It’s less than 3 years old. 🤣
One problem I have found here in OZ is that the real old servos are the cause for a lot of contaminated fuel. Back in the dark ages (70's ) the tanks were made of metal, usually straight steel. Overtime the steel starts to beak down and this is another reason for dirty fuel. The modern fuel tanks out here are polymer so the breaking down is minuscule.
I really like what you did to check fuel pressure. I am gonna keep that in mind for future tests. Like some other commenters said, I would def check the injectors, or just replace with that kinda mileage. You are doing it right with the trouble shooting. Keep up the great work my dude!
Nothing like having just under 2k cc’s of power and not being able to slam on it. You got this my man! PS sold my Roadmaster and am going for that Challenger next season!!
Like you said, air, fuel, spark. After that, it's compression and timing. Hang in there Brandon, you can do it. Your garage looks a lot like mine, three motorcycles in there, and only one is road worthy.
Gotta get those bikes back on the road! 🤓
Hi, just come across your video, good checks really like everything you did. Things you missed, your fuel reg is sticking, should never have the pressure drop as you blip the throttle, you have high content of moisture in your fuel causing the filter to fail, the filter has an active element that reacts with moisture causing discoloration and blocks up.
I just got my bike running right after not using it a few years, same issue as your one.
Did the pump and filter, filter looked bad only had 5000km on it, the original filter looked brand new with 45000km which I replaced shortly before I stopped riding the bike as a daily.
Needless to say the new pump and filter did nothing to improve performance.
I overlooked the reg at this point.
I added really good quality fuel system cleaner, and rode the bike, my reg was so stick was causing huge backfiring at certain throttle and rpm due to lack of fuel pressure, gave the bike a hard time for few hours. Eventually the reg got stuck on high pressure causing my idle to be 2200rpm. Rode the bike the following day with fresh fuel for few hours eventually all got back to normal.
Reccomed fresh good fuel, ride the bike hard, pull over let it heat soak 15/30 min ride hard again/ Just ride the bike!
I'm surprised and impressed with the quality of the 109r, minus 2nd gear and the final drive which I destroyed along with many rear tyres.
Hope you have solved your bike issue buy now. Looking the video was posted a year ago. For the other readers out there, points I raised are facts I'm in the tradie 20years.
Regards from Sydney AU.
Good process going through it all logically. I would have replaced the clutch too with those symptoms. Fuel filter gets discolored, that just looks like normal color. But your pump is good, don’t mess with it. My next step would be to clean the fuel injectors if you can (Seafoam in tank is a cheap way, but sometimes you need to pull them). Also check if the fuel lines are due to be replaced. I have a 2014 Triumph that they said to replace the fuel lines to the rail at 4 years. The bike only had 9000 miles on it, so I thought I would skip that. NOPE. They were literally breaking down internally and put little rubber pieces all in my injectors. So just check that.
Does the bike have an ECU that needs the air sensor? Possible the sensor isn’t reading enough air when you dump it hard, so it is holding back fuel until the air catches up? I don’t know either. But this is great content and I applaud you taking the time to do the work. Good job.
Also: Some bikes can get a bit of vacuum built up in the tank during extended "high-rpm" (or highway) running - try a highway pull with the gas cap a little loose? (Mostly empty so you don't splash too much).
If you can find a local race/speed shop, they *may* have an ultrasonic fuel injector cleaner. There was one close to me that I used about 6 years ago, it was VERY reasonable for my purposes (~$25 per injector, factor for inflation and location of course). Mine just took the bare injectors and they did the rest.
I’ve been told the fuel pump could check out as good on the pressure and still end up bad. Gonna pull everything off tonight and see what’s up. Probably will have a video out in it Sunday. All great tips, Peeps.
@@BrandonBicasso That makes sense. If it has a restriction (dirt in the wrong spot?) it could be able to make the static pressure but not be able to keep up with peak flow demand.
@@squish3r Well, I took it for a spin Sunday and ripped on it like a maniac. Had not a single hiccup. I needed to drain that fuel out anyway. My guess is there’s some gremlins inside of the fuel pump canister. I took it off when changing out the fuel filter the first time and took a peek but didn’t think anything else of it. I’ll find out for sure. I also know I didn’t want to spend the $200 on a new pump so I left it alone to just the filter. Which means when some of that funk passes through the pump down the rail, it could be hitting those injectors briefly causing the issue. Then, the injectors eventually pass the funk through the cylinder and it’s burned off.
@@BrandonBicasso Interesting... At that point I'd personally try to "flush" the fuel tank and change the in-tank sock again and just run it!
You've gotten some great advice on potential feeling problems, is, if none of those options fails to clear your issue I would suggest working your way back through the wiring harness paying very close attention to any part of the harness you've manipulated during your maintenance. Sometimes the insulation gets brittle and then cracks slightly when manipulated And this in turn can bugger a signal Coming from a sensor which your fuel injection computer uses to determine how much fuel to feed the motorcycle and when. I don't envy you if this is the case because these kinds of problems can be completely infuriating to track down even for a professional who went to a specialized electronic school.
Top tier fuel is all I use. May cost a little more at the pump but it's well worth it in the long run because your fuel system stay clean. Also, adding marvel mystery oil to your tank every once and a while will assist the top tier fuel in keeping you fuel system running super clean.
My vote is for MAF sensor or equivalent. Run some sea foam thru it maybe?
Try some 110 racing fuel or non ethanol gas.
KN air filter?
It seems maaaaybe it's a respiration issue(breathing)
Check engine compression?
I think uve already change spark plug and wires, no?
Yeh maybe a bad load of gasoline jammed that filter.
As a diesel driver I've learned that if the pumps is hella slow, dont fill up there, as that is indicative of a station not replacing the pump filters..
So I would put it past bad gas load.
How this... remove filter, wash out tank...
Fill up on non ethanol fuel from lowes/HD out a can.
Do not reinstall filter... and test it.
Install new filter test it....
Ps. I need to learn to not comment while watching vids but to wait till the end. :)
I thought about the sea foam definitely! I haven’t checked the MAF sensor but most of that is pretty clean. I’ll check it again. I do have KN filters. Cleaned those last time I did all of that maintenance. Haven’t checked the engine compression but did change all the plugs and verified the coils/wires were good. So many things can be at play 🤣
@@BrandonBicasso good content... feels like another day at the office, but with motorcycles.
Lol I was just talkin to you about this beauty on IG. Didn't know it was running bad!
Yeeeah, it'll still slap a few people with some stop light pulls, tho!
Bro, you're missing a big part of the picture. Your ecu needs accurate data from your throttle position sensor and your 2 IAP sensors to determine load. If one of those is glitchy its not going to pick up the throttle opening % accurately. It's not going to go into acceleration enrichment map areas. You gotta dig a little deeper here. Hit me back this is my area haha
Was waiting on you to chime in 🤣🤣🤣 I thought about the tps and the throttle body sync at one point. There’s a fuel processor on it (cobra fi2000) and it could be acting funky. I was gonna take the ecu out at some point and send it off for a flash so I didn’t need that anymore.
@@BrandonBicasso buddy! Throw the cobra over your left shoulder!!! That could be the problem right there. They do nothing positive. 100% get it flashed. BCS is the company to use over there
Someone else mentioned removing it as well. Def could have gotten wonky over the years. It’s one of those set it and forget it things that I haven’t touched in years.
@@BrandonBicasso even if it's working its 100% making things worse. They're based on a completely flawed premise of operation. Anything that promises "self tuning" is a gimmick. Toss it
@@lukeatadelaideperformancee8052 Lol, got it. I’ll keep you posted on it. I’ll probably take it off first, do a ride and see what’s up from there.
I'd check the TPS (throttle position sensor) first. It might need to be recalibrated or replaced. Is the bike throwing any codes?
Not a single one. I’ve thought about the throttle body sync as well.
Deorman Robey
I think crank case fumes are vented into the air filter housing.
Thicc love - I hate chasing issues but the thicc fairy will bless u in ur efforts -another hood video
Thicc fairy always got the goods
Sounds like dirty fuel. Drain, rinse, inspect tank with camera to make sure coating isn't chipped and rust isn't forming. Then check injectors to see if clogged. Also check for vaccum leaks and bad electric connections on injectors
I'm wondering if your gas station got some kind of contamination in their storage tanks.
Do you get gas for all your vehicles from the same place? And, if so, are you experiencing any difficulties with any of them?
SOMETHING is causing that filter to turn black. I'll definitely be following this problem to see how you eventually solve it.
By the way, you have explained and filmed the process you've gone through so far, excellently.
As one bike owner who tries to do most of their own work, to another, you have my respect, Brandon.
Peace
Preciate that Eric! I will definitely get to the bottom of it soon. What’s wild is the gas station I use (maybe 3 years) is very new compared to the places I’ve used before.
Brandon, I'm a 1/3 through this video and even here in Australia I can tell you what is wrong. 43,000 miles is a long way for you fuel injectors to work perfectly. The fuel filter you showed also tell me the you have been getting dirty fuel. Most of the time the fuel injectors will pump through without a problem however, now it's gotten to the stage the the injectors need cleaning or replacing. The first warning sign is when you give the throttle a fistful you get the starving of fuel. Just so you know I own a Yam Roadliner XV1900.
Yeah, seems like I need to take them off and give them a check or more than likely replace them.
I agree with Greg. I would look at the fuel injectors.
I would have a look at my o2 sensor, and if you have played with your exhaust, as well as the air filter.
That is a stumper. Hope you figured it out. Learning a lot from these videos.
I have a feeling it's the fuel you're buying. If your filter is that bad that fast it's the fuel going in. Might ad some injecter cleaner for good measure. I put seafoam in every few tanks, seems to help a lot.
Put it back together with fresh spark plugs and go run it to reproduce the problem. Remove and inspect the plugs. Determine for sure that it is lean or rich. Posible issues could be cracked/ leaking intake manifold boots, intake air snorkel or filter clogged/collapsing,(mouse nest) TPS/other sensors out of range, or throttle not opening 100%... Good Luck.
I truly feel your pain. It's the gasoline. To many bikes have went down last season dew to fuel issues.
Will have to test it all again at some point. This proved the fuel pump is getting what it needs, buuuuut the throttle test wasn't enough. Would get more info if I did that on the highway.
Now that I think about it. Mine started doing the same thing. Wait and see if a code pops up out of the blue. A 001 code.
Had the same problem on my first victory that I brought used so I started using 91 octane gas and the problem declined never had that problem with my new Honda always put 91from day one.
It could be gas but ya boy been using 93 since ‘12 💪🏾😮💨
After seeing this video and reading some of the comments, I'm taking my cobra f2000 off and getting my ecu flashed. Just replaced my fuel filter as well. Want to bad, but my bike seems a little sluggish at slow speed.
Worth a try to see if it fixes your issue. I have getting the ecu flashed on my list as well.
It will definitely be an improvement over a “tuner” module.
Have you cleaned the injectors?
I know this doesn't have anything to do with your video but I've been looking everywhere for a smoked out sport windshield. Where did you get yours?
Here’s the exact one I ordered from eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/174729026872
Perfect! Thanks.
Definitely need a new fuel sock. How long has it been since you have serviced your air cleaners? Try running some fuel cleaner through the fuel system too. Put a bit more than recommended
Few months on the air cleaners.
@@BrandonBicasso sometimes a clogged or over oiled air filter can cause top end loss of power due to needing to suck so much air
I think it's the injectors...like I said"I think" I don't know for sure. Have you ever had the bike dyno test? I not saying Dyno testing is a practical to find a problem, but I think it can pin point air, and fuel weaknesses. Good luck, thanks for sharing, and I look forward to seeing the fix.
Good point. Haven’t had the bike dyno’d before. I’d have to travel for it so I’ve never had it done.
I’ve most likely missed an episode or two 😂 but have you tried the drive shaft? My VTX 1300 was experiencing the same issue. Once I changed the drive shaft fluid… man did I experience a significant change 🤷🏿♂️. The bike was taking off!!!
Possibly but being that it’s an on/off issue there’s no telling what it could be 🤣
Does the beast stumble right was at after a cold start or after a little riding? I’ve got a couple ideas of what it could be. This sounds like a good reason for me to take a day trip to Montgomery soon.
Uhhh, it really rides fine until you ask for me throttle when it’s loaded on the highway. I thought the throttle body could be out of sync at one point too.
@@BrandonBicasso I’m thinking that or a vacuum leak from around the intake gaskets or hoses around the throttle body
Could it be bad gas and maybe the just need a good cleaning? Every year when I store mine I add stable and fuel cleaner. When I start riding again I use the tank up and add new gas with more cleaner and Lucas Injector cleaner.
That’s what she said 🤌🏾😮💨
Are you getting stuttering or just when you turn the throttle the power doesn't get to the wheels? I had the latter and my mechanic just adjusted my clutch cable and problem solved
Mm, it’s stuttering. I hate I don’t have video on what it’s doing but it’s like traction control cutting in on the fuel when I’m throttling down. It sputters and eventually kicks in and goes.
Whenever i change a fuel filter that is attached to a fuel pump inside of a tank of a fuel injected bike....I always drain the tank and rinse out with new gas and carb cleaner and change out the fuel pump...especially if the bike is 10 years or older on a used bike....
Do you still have your clutch return spring? I lost minw when I put my new cable on now she slips. That could be it?
Everything on the clutch was put back. I was very careful with it for that reason 😂
HEY BRA,, I THINK YOU NEED TO CHECK YOUR AIR FILTERS AND YOU NEED TO HAVE YOUR COMPUTER FLASHED... I HAVE A M109R 2019 AND I WSA EXPERIENCING SOME OF THE SAME UNTIL I HAD MY COMPUTER FLASHED,, NOT ONLY DID THAT GET RID OF THE SUGGEST ACCELERATION, NOW MY BIKE IS MUCH FASTER THAN THE STOCK PERFORMANCE... LET ME KNOW IF THAT WORKS FOR YOU
The fuel filter will get dirty in one tank of gas, I would try cleaning the throttle bodies mines was running poorly and a good cleaning and it runs good, The other thing might be the clutch adjustment. Good luck
Hi thanks for your great videos do you have a link for when you did the valves and the clutch I am at present able to do my breaks oil change air filters spark blue that is it bu like to do my clutch and valve thanks.
I have a video on the clutches but it’s more of a reference. There’s a copy of the service manual in the description of that video though. I only checked my valves as they were still in spec. I’ll be taking the cams out next time but that won’t be for another few thousand miles.
ruclips.net/video/ulSybaJPfyg/видео.html
When something goes wrong with your bikes, how do you typically figure out what the issue is? Googling through forums or calling a dealer? A buddy of mine suddenly had an acceleration issue with his bike and has no idea what happened to it.
Googling to see if someone else has the issue too. Then of course, checking things that could be the problem. Having a manual helps with that. I started checking the things that could be the problem and ruled out each component. But, just because something is ruled to be not be a problem, it still could cause intermittent issues.
I have called my dealer for troubleshooting tips as well. I'm pretty cool with my local Suzuki shop.
Did you find the problem? Mine is doing this and before I go spending money I would like to research. I put injector cleaner in it but thats it so far.
Fuel controller had a severed ground so when I asked for more power on the top end, fuel controller was acting up. The ground was only holding by a few strands of copper on the battery. Should also check your gas cap seals and air filters.
Hey bro check my comment, hope it helps just got mine sorted .
@@BrandonBicassoalso a good point, though mine had fuel controller issue, ignored it I got lucky just by riding it.
My 5 cent - eliminate the easy checks first.
1. if some dirt
ust\whatever is in the tank you will see it by draining some fuel _from the tank_ in a clean glass, swirl, let it stand for an hour to wait for sediment, slowly pour away 99% of it, wipe the rest with a clean paper towel. If the towel comes up even a bit dirty, drain it, get a camera in, look for rust\chipping. flush it with clean fuel, (while you are at it, get some clean fuel in a glass to see if your "clean" fuel is actually clean) repeat. I had drained rust flakes of 1-2 mm from one of the bikes I checked hehehe.
2. try a different gas station for a week. But, since you were talking about a Tennessee trip you took, I doubt that is an issue with that particular station. Still worth a shot though.
3.try some highly-volatile fuel system cleaners (branded as "valve cleaners" "fuel system cleaners" "injector cleaners" or whatever. Usually low-weight hydrocarbons. Its a bandaid rather then a sollution, but if you see a difference its something.
4. you said air is ok. What about the oxygen sensor on the exhaust side as someone probably already mentioned? They should run longer than these 15-20 years, but could be a cheap check.
5. you said sparkplugs are ok. check again, its quickly done and even replacing them is cheap. Also... If your conjecture that there is an issue with the fuel delivery is correct, then after the event you should be running lean for a moment. I might be wrong, but I would do a roadside sparkplug check (gun it, killswithch while it hesitates, coast to a stop, get the plugs out, check color. Both, because there might be an issue just with one cylinder.)
6. I second the suggestion on driveshaft oil change. again, quick and cheap hehehe.
As I said, nothing from these will probably solve your problem. But, negative result is one step in the right direction. And, before I'll tackle expensive electronic/injector side I'd rather be damn sure that it is exactly that where the problem lies..
wait. 0.40, you said the revs go up but no power. If revs go up, the engine is fine, its powertrain, no?
Also, imo, any issues with inconsistent fuel delivery will result in non-precise throttle-revs relation. Like, when you open it to 80% revs and keep the throttle, it will want to go up from that or drop not by much, but I'd say if it is constant within 20-50rpm then engine side is fine. On the warm engine. Might be wrong though, I remember that '21 HD I testdrove that couldn't keep its idle within 300rpm constant, was all over the place.
@@Kashak666 all great suggestions. And yes, the revs would jump but it wouldn’t put power down. Then another situation it felt like a fuel cut. I filmed something last night about it all but I had no problems with it Saturday. Beat on it and not a single issue. Fuel filter still looks overly dirty for one I just installed so I still think there’s an issue going on with the fuel system. Even if that is not the solution to the weird riding issues that’s going on. Like you said, those are still things to check and rule out. Glad the community is understanding of it all and offering solutions!
@@BrandonBicasso yes, that brown filter is definitely not ok. I dont know the fuel path on m109, but isnt the filter the first step after the tank? (tank->filter->pump->hoses->injectors as a simplified fuel path I mean) And, there would be no back-flow through the filter, so whatever dirt is on\in it came from the tank.
Also, as a suggestion. You are getting a new filter probably anyways. Cut up the old one and look for visible particles. If you find anything - you are probably up for tank clean\seal.
Inconsistent symptoms are the worse xD
Keep digging, you'll find the issue)- and, keep us updated hehehe
Aalso. Just read somewhere that it could be related to the cracking\deterioration on the inside of fuel hoses, but imo that is usually the issue on very old bikes that were sitting dry for way too long.
@@Kashak666 I thought about the hose between the tank and rail being junked. I think the fuel lines are supposed to be inspected every so many thousands of miles anyway. And the 109 doesn’t have a back flow through the filter. The regulator in the tank will pick up the fuel and dump it back so it’s all circulation inside the tank. And I will definitely cut up the old fuel filter. Didn’t think to do that!
The only thing worse then having one bike that is broke down….is having two bikes that are both broke down. 😭 good thing you have the victory to ride for a while!
😂😂😂 Truth!
What up Brandon! Yo you running that Gump Gas ⛽ bruh...lol but seriously your fuel filter is dirty in a short span due to running bad fuel. Are you running regular unleaded or premium. If there is any contamination from the gas you running you can bet its affecting your performance. At first my initial reaction was something is up with your transmission, but the way that fuel filter setup its probably a quick fix with a fuel flush and treatment and then fill her with some premium gas. (Used to ride in MGM too back in the day). Hope this is helpful to you. ✌🏾🤙🏿💪🏿
That gump gas done got me in trouble Fam 😂😂
@@BrandonBicasso cracking up right now bruh! 🤣
open the filter up and check it out, so it stumbles UNDER A LOAD not in neutral..... air fuel mixture, google your issue with Suzuki M109r stumbles under a load.
Someone else mentioned that off camera. Taking the fuel filter off, and running the bike but that brings the risk of clogging the fuel pump. And yeah, having it under load would make a difference. Learning!
if not there then check spark plugs - make sure the gaping is good, they are not full of carbon if so change them, not super wet if so there is something else that is wrong could be the plug wire not seating properly so that one isn't sparking if oily then it is something else that would required another tear down, injectors - make sure they too are cleaned out. I have had some success with just the carb/injector cleaners that are fuel additives a couple of tank fulls on older cars/trucks and motos, check to make sure your air box is on properly, the old honda shadow would literally DIE if there was too much air coming in.. cause if you put on a nice air cleaner and you didn't get a tune that could also be the issue with running out at higher speeds.. and then check all the hoes... I mean hoses lol gotta make sure they are sealed up nice and tight things do rattle off so check that and since we live in the colder weather stuff it helps to really check those fittings.
keep up the fun vids and like how you are not afraid to just try something out.. cheers.
Could it some sediment within the tank that’s starving the pump and clogging the filter?
Not sure. Checked it a few days ago (video uploading tonight) and the tank was clean. I have a new pump/filter on order.
@@BrandonBicasso would you be able to check the Reservoir on the pump itself before the new one arrives? You may be able to take it down and check it. Who knows, you may end up with two pumps!
Is there rust in the tank?
To my knowledge and quick observation, no. I’d expect the fuel pump assembly to have a bit of debris on it if that were the case. That’s not to say something isn’t floating around in there though.
Does your 109 have any performance mods?
Air filter, exhaust and a cobra fi2000. Other than that, nope.
@@BrandonBicasso ok so is the problem happening in either 4th or 5 gear @ wot?
@@tha1n0nlyblk36 Yep. But not every time. Ran it the other day wide open for a 60ish mile ride to empty the tank and not a single hiccup.
@@BrandonBicasso look into the secondary throttle plate restrictions in 4th and 5th gears on the m109r forums
What happened to the apron??
😂😂, forgot to put it on.
I had an issue with my 16 Scout...I would ride it and all of a sudden it would shut off on me....I bought a pump online replaced it...it's running fine now...it would start with no problem run for a while then just bogg down and shut off...I would just replace the pump all together.
Yeah, I’m still thinking that fuel pump is the problem.
@@BrandonBicasso can't wait to see what the final verdict is...but I hope it's fixed for good ..... It wasn't a good feeling going 70mph -30mph on the highway.
Gregg Masnick makes sense
What octane are you running
93 💪🏾
Power Commander might be the solution
Or the problem 🤣
try changing the injectors
Crank case fumes are vented into the tank. That crap on the filter could be carbon from blow-by.
Hmm, didn’t know that. Interesting which could explain the black residue.
@@BrandonBicasso I'm pretty sure that's right, although some engines are vented to the intake manifold. Point and laugh at me if I'm wrong. 🤣
@@deormanrobey892 if you’re wrong, I’m grateful that you at least gave a tip to look into. 🤓
An old engine maybe he doesn't like the ethanol, cheap shit brands of gasoline?
Ride the Fuel tank empty up to 20 % and drain the rest.
Then put a small amount of petrol in the tank and rinse it out again.
Is it a carburated engine ,then clean the carburetor reservoir
And possibly the rest to?
When my bike starts its hibernation I drain the gas tank and then I put
in a special petrol. That stuff stays stable for a whole year.
Greetings from Holland ( Joop )
Mmm, I’m definitely using ethanol and 93. Could be cheap gas but I’d think Shell would have their shit together too.
Have you checked the coil
All 4 are still in spec on their voltage👌🏾 I checked those when I pulled that fuel filter out last time. Never posted a video on it.
what happend for this beast?
Getting some weird hesitation when riding on the highway 🙁
Could have a fuel line deteriorating internally.
Yeah, I’m considering getting another line. Not sure yet.
Lol.. turn the key 🔑…
Sorry.. couldn’t help myself…!!
🤔injector’s.. have you ever run
Fuel injector cleaner..??
They may need to be replaced
Your issue Is the escape gate
If the revs go up but you don't accelerate its a clutch issue. If on the other hand its a hesitation issue, then it's some kind of fuel issue, like clogged injectors, bad gas, air mixture problem, etc. Looks like you need to change gas stations.
My condolences....
It’s probably rust
P.S. love what you do!!! 9-life
clearly you need air in your tire mane 🤨 how can you not see that ? 😜😜 good investigation sir! you'll figure it out for sure !
Bro get some fuel from somewhere else . Drain the fuel
Bummer sorry buddy. Sounds like a pain in the arse!
Hey, it’s at least rideable! I just want it to be the best it can be and that means fixing it. 👌🏾🤓
@@BrandonBicasso ❤️👊✊👍
Why wouldn’t you just hire a professional? Don’t take it the wrong way.
No worries! Part of the fun for me is figuring out the problem and providing a solution. Plus, it can help someone else out there figure out their own issue.
Bra just sell the bike and get a newer one
That’s wild
@@BrandonBicasso why u say that mi g
You might double check your coils. My experience with Suzuki’s are the coils at least on the older models are marginal. They break down under load at higher rpm with time and mileage. The only way I know how to test them is on a machine that shows how far of a gap they will jump like a spark plug gap.
@@michaelowens1183 as for those, used a volt meter and tested them per the manual. All of them checked out as in spec but… that’s only testing them “that way”. Doesn’t mean they won’t act up when pinched or under a load. I won’t rule them out.
@@BrandonBicasso Hey, something else to think about, you said the valve adjustment was on the tight side of specs. You would be surprised how much a slightly tight exhaust valve would effect how an engine runs. I always checked valves in two positions.