Update* The Diesel Heaters are back in stock on Amazon.com >> amzn.to/47KUrMq This unit has a new “Level mode” that allows the heater to be adjusted based on a level of heat you choose, by toggling the keys on the pad. This allows the heater to automatically adjust based on the level of heat your set taking the guesswork out and the need to change settings in engineering mode. Like in the older heaters. Coupled with the Bluetooth app and this mode of control, no more need for thermostatic control and extension of the cable, But It’s still a good idea though. 🍻 Winter is coming, we wish you all a warm safe journey! Update: Power adapter has FC and CE logos and heater has CE, UK|CA, triangle with check mark ✅ aka A-Tick, and FCC ID: 2A7W6-SS2. *ATTN* DISCLAIMER : THIS HEATER DOES NOT HAVE UL LABELS AND CERTIFICATIONS: THIS IS A CHINESE DIESEL HEATER NOT MADE BY U.S STANDARDS. BEWARE NEVER DIRECTLY INPUT 120 VAC INTO THE HEATER. ALWAYS USE THE SUPPLIED CABLES AND ADAPTERS FOR USE. AND REFER TO USERS MANUAL. MISUSE OF THIS PRODUCT CAN CAUSE ELECTRICAL FIRE AND OR SHOCK. Additional information: Exceptional Heating Performance: Efficiently warms your space with a 5-8kW adjustable range. Achieve a cozy room temperature of 20°C swiftly while boasting a low fuel consumption of just 0.1-0.48L/h. Enjoy a whole night of warmth on just 6L oil. Unparalleled Safety Features: Engineered with a crucial overheating protection function, ensuring your heater operates safely. Certified and compliant with industry-leading safety standards, guaranteeing peace of mind with every use. Unique All-in-One Box Design: A compact and innovative storage structure that is easily portable. Designed for effortless installation, dismantling, and maintenance. Smart Bluetooth App Control: Experience the convenience of remote heater control via the App. Save time, energy, and stay comfortable with just a tap on your iOS or Android device. Versatile Applications: Perfectly suited for an array of settings, be it a car, caravan operating on 12V or 24V, or at home with 110V. Performs stably even at high altitudes, making it a reliable heating solution for various environments. 0:01 Hcalory SS2 Intro 0:38 Whats in the box 1:40 New VS Old Heater 6:50 Start Up 12:07 Wireless Smart Phone App Control Setup
Its the same old parts in it, the controller is almost never the issue it is the fan motor and pump that go first on these . I have had these for years and repaired them many many times . I still use them all the time but you need to have extra parts on hand . @@ATEMOFFROAD
wThe power input socket is for 220 Volts in Europe - so an unaware use could feed high voltage into the heater and destroy the unit - and possibly his future ... DANGEROUS DESIGN FLAW
I do a fair bit of higher altitude (above 5000' elev) camping. The MaxSpeedingRods (and some similar Chinese heaters) report to have automatic calibration for altitude. Does this one have that? Another question, my heater port in the side of the canopy has a thermostatic probe... Is there a way to connect an external thermostat? I plan to have the diesel heater outside the truck (on ground or mounted to the side) so if it is measuring the ambient temperature of the outside that would be pointless and essentially it becomes a manual on/off remote control heater instead of turning on automatically at night while sleeping. Nice video - thank you for the review. I look forward to your response.
The manufacturer claims the heater self adjusts for higher altitude, this would make sense as there are now two user friendly modes that can be accessed based on your setting. If you watch my winter camping videos I mention on the older heaters that extending the cable to reach the heated space is a must, because the thermostat is built inside the controller. And the thermostat automatically adjust the heater to room/tent heat you set and that if you Leave the thermostat outside it will cause the heater to run up to full load. Bringing the thermostat inside the heated space also allows the heater to throttle way down, saving fuel and power making the heater much more efficient and controllable . This mode is also on the new heater, unfortunately the cable is too short to bring the controller inside the tent or heated space. This new controller allows a secondary mode with no need to extend the cable, that if you are heating a space separate from the heater like a tint, new mode allows you to throttle up or down the heater regardless of where the thermostat is located. This new mode calculates the fuel and fan speeds based on elevation and outputs a steady controlled heat. We see this control in the form of green (low) to red (high) or hotter as the bars on the HMI. Hope this helps 🍻
With Mode 2 it sounds like a fixed manual setting is the only option. If I wanted it to be about 50 degrees at night while sleeping I would be guessing on a setting based upon using it prior to going to bed and hoping it was close enough if the temp dropped or increased - correct? @@ATEMOFFROAD
@@MarkBuchanan3D yes a more user friendly manual mode if you will , it won’t automatically adjust you would still need to extend the cable as previously mentioned. For myself it works because once the space is heated the heater is usually throttled down to it’s lowest setting anyway. I keep a carbon monoxide detector in my tent it has a built in thermometer, so I’ll manually adjust based on that readout for the night. Now what would be really cool is if the app had a built in thermometer and through the app it automatically adjusted. I’m still playing with the app to see if that is an option
Nah, $300 is insane when I can buy the older style for less than $120 and it does the exact same thing. This essentially has the same parts but now in flashy, new enclosure. I see this comment section flooded with people who have money to blow. Some of us don't have disposable income to just throw towards redundant "upgraded" products.
That’s fair, I know it’s not going to be for everyone’s use, I use for winter tent camping so we need something that is rugged and can hold up to the abuse of offroad camping. I respect your analysis, price must have gone up? Last I checked it was $200 still very affordable for this design heater. 🍻
How are these say with a blend of motor oil in them. I understand you need to start it with kerosene or e85 or diesel. Then you can run motor oil in some of these .
@@Tiersmoke92555 exactly,the controller and controls are different. Improved and more user friendly. Your buying the updated controls and better enclosure. The old heater cannot do what this new heater can do on the fly. Especially For tent camping you won’t need to extend the controllers cable so the thermostat can be in the heated space. They fixed that with the new level mode heat setting. The Old heater is an indoor heater only unless you modify it. Also for advanced settings you must go into engineering mode and calculate altitude/fan and fuel pump speed if the thermostat is overrode. This setting would need to be changed every time based on location. The new heater takes the guess work out of all that and automatically adjusts. It’s more efficient this way and way easier to set up for the mobile user. No others are at this level.🍻
That IEC 60320-1 C13 connector they use is extremely concerning. As there are many of them in every household if they own a desktop computer or various other AC appliances that commonly use them, it creates the possibility that a user could in inadvertently plug this unit into mains power with disastrous results for the unit and perhaps the user. As these would never pass CSA ANSI standards, they could get rejected if noticed by customs during the import procedure. Unfortunately, HCALORY is not the only manufacturer that is using these connectors for 12V, but hopefully they will get the message and change that. Just as you did due diligence by discussing the potential of adding a fuse, I'd recommend replacing that IEC connector with something like an XT60 or Anderson power pole.
As soon as I saw that I thought the same, "someone is going to plug a kettle lead into that", very dangerous. 120v or 240v instead of 12v would have some interesting results.
FYI: If you unscrew the nose cone of the cigarette lighter plug-in end, there should be a an in-line fuse already in there so you should not have needed to strip your power cord to add another fuse. Also, if you want/need to add another fuse, it might be better to place it in-line inside of the heater case so there is nothing on your power cord to get snagged and damage it, leaving you stranded until it can be fixed. Seems like it might be a nice unit and easier to travel with it stored than the tall slim units. Thanks for the video!
Good point and all documented n the next video 🍻Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD Also note, you should not have the double fuse on that. Putting the ATO style one inline with the one built into the 12v adapter plug, changes the resistance of that circuit. Keep in mind, the way a fuse works, is by protecting from a short/too high a draw DOWN stream from the point of the fuse. It does nothing up stream of it (hence why your car/rig has a fusible link directly off the battery, and so on)
@@obiesunstreak2409 actually this cig plug doesn’t have a fuse , so keep that in mind you don’t want to rely on a fuse that may actually not be there. I have an older incandescent spot light thats 12v the cig adapter never came with a built in fuse and it pull’s close to 12amps. The truck circuit is fused it’s not self protected. This part in the video my not be the best example of protecting the heater . The next video I share I corrected all this with the best possible solution for both the AC and Dc supplies. Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD are you sure? that plug you showed in the picture has the knurled tip that should unscrew and expose a glass style fuse inside with a small spring.
I think this product is trading “convenience” for *safety*. Not wise to burn up your oxygen within the same room you’re heating. There was even a warning on the app sharing that. I would rather have both my exhaust and air intake from/for combustion to be outside of the area I’m heating to ensure an oxygen rich room. if you’re camping within a tent with a lot of ventilation, then that’s understandable. But, would not suggest this for a more airtight environment like for a camper or van.
Regarding the fuse for 12v power: if you unscrew the knurled ring at the tip of the cigarette lighter plug, you may find there is already a glass fuse inside.
Yes but some don’t have the fuse so just have to watch that. At the time I wasn’t sure if I was going to put cig adapter or battery clamp, I had already put the fuse on. 🤦♂️
@@TallTexasGMan that’s correct, I will address this next video, the cig adapter I have doesn’t have a fuse this is why I added one, it’s rated 15 amps 🍻
@@TheBioniXman You are joking? Maybe when it is running but not at start-up. It will require double your 41W and then some, during the start-up (and run-down) cycle.
is it really worth the extra $100 to $150 more cost over other brands? It has a plastic box, other side-by fuel tank units have metal boxes. Is it just the electronics or is there something more? While I am researching these for best use in my application, it looks like taller / tank over models are better suited for bolted down situations. These tank beside units would be obviously better for camping or moving around. Plastic case + fire = a worried me. Convenience of the electronics; is it really that different between brands.
Yes I thought the same thing, but only in the wrong hands. The plug is standard I verified with an old computer power supply. The heater has its own power supply to adapt to AC. Someone would have to introduce a completely different cable for that to be a problem. Worst case senerio is the unit shorts out and could catch on fire. I guess will have to try it? Although, this is what the mfgs says: Unparalleled Safety Features: Engineered with a crucial overheating protection function, ensuring your heater operates safely. Certified and compliant with industry-leading safety standards, guaranteeing peace of mind with every use.
The DC connector is exactly the same as many 110 vac connections on all sorts of things. That could lead to a nasty condition if someone plugs that unit into 110 vac.
Yes I thought the same thing, but only in the wrong hands. The plug is standard I verified with an old computer power supply. The heater has its own power supply to adapt to AC. Someone would have to introduce a completely different cable for that to be a problem. Worst case senerio is the unit shorts out and could catch on fire. I guess will have to try it? Although, this is what the mfgs says: Unparalleled Safety Features: Engineered with a crucial overheating protection function, ensuring your heater operates safely. Certified and compliant with industry-leading safety standards, guaranteeing peace of mind with every use.
I was thinking the same, whichever way you look at it is a real bad idea - even on something you made yourself that only you will use, let alone a general Joe public consumer!
Using IEC C13 C14 connectors for 12V DC when it's usually used for 110/230V AC seems like a really bad idea. For DC and this amount of amps there exists connectors like XT60 or XT90, so why introduce this kind of potential hazard.
I am very tempted to show what would happen in the case 120v AC was input into the mains. But In theory we can also predict what would happen. Remember the controllers control circuit is what relays the heater circuit to turn ON. The controllers control circuit is also low voltage/ low amps, Controlling a HIGH amperage heater circuit. I suspect if AC is applied the low voltage/amp control circuitry would take the hit before the possibility of the high amp heater circuit absorbing a load to catch fire. The circuit would be damaged like a fuse shorted, and in the form of a bad trace on the board. With the low current circuit damaged you would not even be able to turn the machine on with AC applied. It would sit there and wait. likey reducing any shock or hazards. You would just have a dead ☠️ heater. Ive also verified the pinout on an AC 120v cable in relation to the 12v heater connections pinout and this is what I have found. If connected, AC Hot lands on DC ground, AC neutral lands On +12v.
@@ATEMOFFROAD probably won't be dangerous isn't good enough - the metalwork on a faulty heater could easily become live if mains voltages are applied because there is no protective earth, and if you can plug it into the mains as easy as you can a kettle...someone will
Is it me or the fact that they use a plug that is identical to a computer power supply could lead to people plugging in the 120 or 240 (europe) volt power in to the 12 volt plug?
Are these units weatherproof? I want to mount mine on the side of my van on the outside. Right now my diesel heater sits on the ground outside with a plastic bag over the top and the controller is covered to protect from rain and snow. Hcalory does not mention anything about being weatherproof for this model or their suitcase version which makes me wonder. Thanks for the video.
I have a question I have a 2001 dodge Cummins extended cab. My heater core went out. I was wondering if you would recommend me installing a diesel heater in it somehow. Instead of having to find a god mechanic to replace my heater core and dash board
It would take up some space, I’ve seen people use this heater inside there trucks usually for when they are parked but I suppose it would work just as good on the road. You will want to do your best to pipe the exhaust outside and make sure it’s not going to burn anything or leak any exhaust into the cab. It gets really hot, Consider having a carbon monoxide detector close by. 🍻
It's for camping purposes or van life. Electric heater request too much watts vs a diesel powered heater. And probably 10amps or more depending on what electric heater Truckers have been using this webasto knockoff type heater for years
Because this sips a very small amount of electricity to only run the pump and glow plug, the primary power source of the heat is the diesel. It isn’t intended for home use traditionally.
@@ZeroAlligator I've seen a handful of people using it for their unheated shop or garages as well... Very economical to setup the exhaust out & just power it up
WOW this new style heater in that box is a game changer for diesel heaters!! However I still find it hilarious it's being marketed as an 8Kw heater when in reality it's only a 5Kw!! 😂😂
If you haven't heard of John McK 47, I would suggest you watch his YT 17 part series on diesel heaters! He explains why there's no such thing as an 8Kw heater. It's all marketing and a way to deceive the consumer. Also he does an excellent job explaining how diesel heaters work and how to repair and maintain your heater. Worth every minute of your time!
This isnot a new style heater, just a new style box to hold it. As for the heat output...these style heater have always been...whatever. I have a 3Kw and a 5Kw. They bot produce the same amount of heat on high. I beleiev they both offer more than 5Kw. Perhaps the early models from 2018 or so were all 8Kw?
Looks like a cool setup, please update how it works for you. We have a Vevor 5KW and it carbons up from running it on low too much, but any higher runs you out of the tent, even with windows open.
I’ll keep you updated for sure most likely through a camp video though. The other heater was a VEVor so I know what you mean by carbon buildup. I usually turn mine up on high for a about 5 minutes before I shut it down especially when I go to winterize it. Haha I’ve been run out of my tent before too when I first started using these. lol until I found out the thermostat is built into the controller, so extending the cable and having the controller in the heated space then allows the thermostat to see the space is becoming heated and throttles way down as it get closer to the set temperature. It’s More efficient too and solved that problem where you loose control. I do know you can go into engineering mode and manually turn down the fans speed and the fuel pump switch frequency, to by pass the thermostat to turn the heater down. But I never really messed with it. It just seemed easier to extend the controller cable. On the new heater the interface is improved, the mode with the bars that moves up and down allows you adjust the temperature up or down to a setting you like so should no longer need to have the controller in the tent , just wireless control from my phone. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD I own 3 Oriental knock-offs and none of them are anywhere _near_ as reliable or well made as my _Eberspacher_ that they are trying to emulate! Main thing is the thermostat - the _real_ one goes into standby once set temp. is reached, it just shuts down and monitors the temp. until it needs to fire up again. I can leave it on all the time and it doesn't pose any threat to my valuables. Cheapo copies just pump diesel constantly unless you shut them off - as far as I know; do any of yours go into standby from a stat signal? I had to replace one of their motors and really struggled to find a matching part - the one I bought had different electrics from the one in the picture so had to be modified. It only worked for an hour then quit, but the pump carried on filling the burn chamber with juice - lucky I was there to pull the plug!
horrible exhaust and unsafe...stuffed in a cheap tool box?..dam..the core unit is the only good thing...everything else is junk...exhaust is a 90 degree angle...what could go wrong.
Remember your USE of a this heater can be defined as totally different than one who uses for camping and traveling. It’s been tried and trued. This is the best heater hands down for tent camping, I’ve seen your other comments about garage heating diys , this is the heater for those that don’t want a big DIY project, they want the convenience of buying a heater ready to go out of the box. The controls are way more user friendly and the overall design is excellent for winter tent camping, van, Rv trailer and overlanding 🤷♂️ There is literally nothing that can compete with this heater that’s affordable and as convenient. The simple fact that it packs properly into a car is awesome. Also the 90 degree exhaust tube on these you don’t like , are 💯 solid and of way thicker material that no other heater or kit offers,. The other heater in this video uses a flex exhaust tube which CRACK very easily, I’ve already bought three replacements of these at almost 25 dollars a piece, the flexible tube is very thin and cannot handle the high heat at a 90 bend, the material fatigues, brittles and cracks then leaks over time with use.
I think it is stupid that a company used an AC C13 - C14 style plug for a low voltage DC application. You know someone will grab a PC cord and plug that thing into the wall.
I encourage youtubers to loudly and repeatedly complain about the unsafe design of these chinese units that use an IEC connector port that is designed for 120 volt mains power to take a low voltage current (after the supplied transformer steps down 120v to 12v). Keep those plugs and receptacles in their own lane and NEVER cross adapt. The reason is for reducing the chances that some unaware user in the future will get their hands on one of these units and see that IEC shape plug and just use a 120v cord. Not only will this fry the board, it will energize those inside wires and exposed connection points with deadly 120v potential for death. For those who already have one of these units, change the IEC port on the side of the case to something that is designed for low voltage uses like an XT30, XT60, or Anderson connector. It will take a little time and parts, but it will reduce the the risk of electrocution for all future users of this nice little heater.
I agree, it should be changed. I believe to China, that IEC is standard low voltage 24vdc or less. In reality two things will happen, the 120vac will wait just like on any plug that’s plugged into the wall and on the other end not or the unit catches on fire post hit of the incorrect incoming voltage. A good GFCI should protect the user. 🍻
You know there’s no such thing as a 8kw Chinese heater Only 5kw rebranded as 8kw. Do the math it’s well documented. Lots of well explained RUclips vids about this scam
I can get 3 8 hr nights on 6 liters easily and that’s heating a tent. 🍻 watch this one guy>>Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
It’s designed to look like a tool/tackle box to hide it from your insurance company. Chinese Diesel Heater… sounds like something on the top of a fire investigator’s checklist.
They’re coming , Hurry hide all the diesel heaters 😂😂 it’s probably a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher and carbon monoxide detector around. I use them outside when snow camping in a tent. Not much can catch on fire in those conditions. 🍻
You list a disclaimer about its suitability then you give links to the supplier ?, personally I'd never buy this heater because of the dangers with monoxide poisoning in a enclosed place, the manufacture recommended these units for car, trucks and mobile homes, in some countries these heaters have been banned because of safety issues in vehicles.
Yes that’s because I use this heater , but never in my home. It’s a good heater for winter tent camping and I always have a carbon monoxide detector in my tent. I always run a disclaimer. I want no part of peoples miss use of this product. 🍻
Yes it is , in todays world people are trained on labels and voltage types so its less likely but very possible. If it can happen it will. Most likely short the pcm and the AC will just sit there. 😩 not good at all, We should try it.
I like this question, so I’d have to revert back to the buddy heater system as far as heaters go. I like the the diesel heater mainly because it’s like a hot air dryer, it keeps any moisture out of the tent. Going back to the basics a good sleeping bag rated for the temps your in, warm clothing, and you can also boil hot water and place into metal or plastic bottles and place those in your sleeping bag. Are all good ways to keep warm when sleeping. You can boil water with a camp fire. Do hand warmers count? Ever seen a zippo body warmer? I use those for hunting they work great 👍🏼
Just spend the extra money on a fuel injection kerosene heater that can be used safely indoors without having to drill a hole in the wall to let the exhaust fumes out.
Nice product at first glance, but the biggest alarm bell for me is the choice of power connector. While it's good they haven't used a proprietary connector, the fact they are using an IEC C14 mains connector is a huge red flag; someone could very easily connect a cable at mains voltage into this unit. I think it's safe to say this unit has not got any legitimate safety approvals for import to the USA/Canada/Europe. I notice it has CE/UK CA/FCC markings, but these will not be legitimate.
@@bobbarker5884 yes someone would have to introduce a totally different cable for it to be problem. There is nothing wrong with the supplied cables and adapters other than the fact that the connection type is used on other common voltages like 120VAC that some could mistakenly plug into the heater.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Agreed, and that is the problem. Sadly, things have to be pretty fool proof, and as that unit effectively has a mains connector on it, I would question the authenticity of the standards markings. It wouldn't stop me buying one though; it seems a great piece of kit. I would probably change the connector though.
It the best heater,,, hot pipe is in my fire place and it helps to heat my house I could save money if I had one in every room,,,,, It will heat for 2 day on low on one take
I will be impressed when they start using metal housing, full metal jacket for that thing is the only way. No plastic, and the biggest fail is it continues to run and waste fuel after reaching desired temp. I use the old style you showed, but I removed it and rebuilt it into a metal box with plenty of fire protection.
Yeah I have no control over that, it’s most likely the plastic they use on engines that can handle hight heat, but they could be listening which is good for new products. As far as controls go the modes seem very simple to throttle down to the lowest setting, no more trouble with that. which is pretty low. If need be any lower you may as well just turn it off. 🍻
You can turn it onto temperature sensor mode instead of pump hertz mode... the controlers have a thermometer which switches off when it acheives the target temp...
Thee is no limit to the amount of time and money that can be spent to make you more comfortable using a liquid fuel heater. There is a reason this type of heater is generally so affordable. They make is safe enough. Most mishaps occur due to improper installation so a redesign by the manufacturer would only serve to increase the price..
I would, they need to handle off road stress during transport, the case needs to be rugged enough to protect the heater and fuel tank. We take our heaters where vans don’t go.
Respectfully, I have no idea why anyone would want to get involved with a diesel space heater that needs to be vented like these things do. I use propane Big Buddy or Little Buddy heaters in my deer stands and tent when portable heat is needed. If you don't want to use a 20lb propane tank to fire them you can buy a Big Buddy and a "Flame King" 1Lb refill kit and 1lb refillable tanks for allot less than this unit costs. These refill kits are very safe to use and way more less expensive than buying prefilled 1lb propane tanks. Without getting into all of the details about these heaters if you do the research and follow the instructions on how to care for the units they will provide safe reliable portable heat for a long time. My first Big Buddy heater that I bought in 2007, for my deer stand, is still working as if new. Ps: The Flame King refill kits, that have three refillable tanks included cost about $75.00 and the Big Buddy costs about $125.00 as of 12/23. Also most of the parts you will ever need to maintain these heaters ( ignitors,fuel filters etc...) are available on Amazon or at Tractor Supply. Just saying...
I’m not ignoring the fact that those are great heaters, particularly for your main use, this heat is a bit different though. The heat on a diesel heater is sourced from a heat exchanger and not a blue flame. Also I’ve had several big buddies and the last time I used one in my tent my sons sleeping bag caught on fire because it slipped off the cot , totally my fault as I left the heater on over night un attended. Should have turned it off! Lastly and probably the biggest reasons I use a diesel heater over propane is that, # 1 I can heat two spaces/ (tents) and the hot air is temperature controlled. This means it’s like a clothing dryer keeping the inside of your tent #2 (moisture free). Check out these videos. 🍻 Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html Winter Tent Camping In My Jeep Wrangler Tj - Hcalory Diesel Heater Update + Christmas Tree Cutting ruclips.net/video/NFNNrBvggW8/видео.html
WAUW, using a household plug to feed 12 volt, ......... asking for problems, KING of diesel heaters......😫😫😫 BTW, it's just a normal chinese heater in a facy box........
I’ve never had a problem with this connection as it solid, but yes someone can place the wrong voltage on the heater and produce magic smoke. That’s fair!
i have a small heater for my camper. i took out the small fuel can an used a 5 gallon jeep/military can that i modified for more fuel to fill less often!
Its still the same heater everyone else is selling. Just put into a plastic box instead. Same cheap muffler and pipe etc. Just way too much cost for my liking. No fuel filter or fuse shows me that they are not going to go the extra mile give you their best.
@@ATEMOFFROAD If you take an unreliable motor put it in the most beautiful luxury car with all the comforts, features and upgrades, in the end your still left with an unreliable car. You can sell your product to gullible people, the smart ones will see it for what it is.
This is chintzy as hell compared to the old unit... they literally took some random pelican clone case and threw parts in it. Honestly its probably a fire hazard because that plastic is probably not rated for some of the temperatures that are going to be near it.
Honestly I’ve been using this heater for two months now and it’s tried and true for winter tent camping, and that’s probably the most rugged abuse these heaters get. We know its not for everyone, but this is an excellent affordable choice for camping. BTW the case is actually steel. Check out the video >>Winter Tent Camping In My Jeep Wrangler Tj - Hcalory Diesel Heater Update + Christmas Tree Cutting ruclips.net/video/NFNNrBvggW8/видео.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD Hmm, that is fair. It looks plastic by perhaps my eyes deceive me, its definitely a Chinese parts checklist and throw it in a box kind of build though. If its metal at least that's probably save at least, or at least as safe as any any other diesel heater.
Better fuel line is always the best way to go. but this line has lasted me over two years now. I mean it’s cheap but it’s also working far beyond my expectations. 🤷♂️
i hear that if you buy a to big one , then it will run more on low speed and you will get a build up of soot inside it, and it will stop working. Do it have a auto cleaning or do you just have to turn it to max sometimes to burn the soot away?
while having a connector for the 12v power is nice, the one they chose is a no no as if someone didnt know or didnt have the original 12v plug they might try and plug 120v wall power into it as its a standard IEC power connector that you find on computers and other mains voltage devices.
It’s a 3 bedroom, we’ve no heating whatsoever and kerosene is now more expensive than diesel in our great little country. I know it wouldn’t heat a house but if it even took the chill and dampness out I’d be happy, thanks for the reply
Or would certainly help, you could also look into running it on heating oil or red diesel as essentially they’re both the same thing and 50% cheaper than white diesel from the pump. Also I can say this really will help with dampness. I had it in a damp garage and it sorted it out in less than a week and I was able to fix the walls and paint it.
Nice video! 2 questions. How many sq ft do you think this would heat and is there any smell at all inside the space your heating? Been looking at these and I’m curious. Thanks 🙌🏼
I would think a full size RV/ travel VAN would be sufficient enough to heat for some perspective, there’s to many variables to really get a good solid idea Sq ft. How well it’s insulated, and how cold it is? For example I’ve taken my heater in 17F and heated my roof top tent to about 79F on low. Little to no insulation. It’s made to heat cars , vans, campers RVS and I’ve seen people use these for small shops and cabins. As for the smell, I get an occasional wiff of diesel usually at start up and shutdown when the unit is running rich. Once it leans out I don’t smell anything. Just be sure to keep the exhaust far from the air intake and you will be good. For RVS and campers I see people keep the entire units inside and poke a hole through the floor or wall for the exhaust so these heaters can be inside circulating the indoor heat which would make the heater more efficient VS my use to heat up a tent and I’m heating cold air all the time when In use. Always have a carbon monoxide detector close by i the heated space. I like mine because it also has a thermometer built in. I listed the link in the description box of this videos I Hope that helps and thanks for watching. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD my heater is outside in a locker, i have the exhaust system running in thelocker which keeps that area luke warm, and combustion intake drawing from the top of the locker. Then the non combustion air intake side i have rigged an intake from the inside of the yacht, at a high point, to recirculate warm air and route the internal 75mm 5m long insulated duct around the yacht internally to where i might need it. I have also pierced holes in certain sections and that heats other sections if needed. Almost like a sprinkler/soaker system in a garden. The holes are at strategic places to warm the main cabin area, when i am sleeping at the forward cabin so in the morning the fore cabin can be at 20 degrees c. And the main cabin around 12 degrees so it isnt a shock, it warms the main cabin up in a matter of mins. I vent the cabins the main heat is in to keep condensation down a bit. It is a dry heat however so no issues from any from the unit. It is purely cold air hitting warm air...
@@stevenlarratt3638 great set up sounds solid. I was curious about anti gelling additives and if you ever needed to use those in precaution to sudden temperature drops as this heater doesn’t offer any insulation surrounding the tank. I was told by the local gas station that there diesel fuels are “winter blends” where they have pre mixed additives to prevent gelling. This makes sense as they probably would not be able to pump the diesel in sub freezing areas. Thinking ahead I have not yet needed the use of additives, but I do move my heater from warm to colder climates so some stations may not have the winter blend available. Do you see this as a problem on your end? Should there be concern using an additive in the heater? What happens to the heater if the diesel gels? Any thoughts? 🍻
Very bad idea make this 12 v connection... If it lost contact one time, heater will burn fuel inside without ventilation, with no exhaust. And its cant be just turned off immideately, heater must burn all fuel in chamber and reduce the heat inside before turning off... * about duct - this new plastic covered duct wil smell, its not for heat, this is vent duct only... Good luck :)t
If power is lost yes everything would stop and you may have unburned fuel inside the heater, no exhaust gets inside the tent because the burner/exhaust is completely isolated from the hot air ventilation. It’s a heat exchanger. As far as the duct goes, I prefer to use the cardboard/ aluminum duct the heater comes with at the outlet. Then couple the grey/aluminum one to the end of that, this way it’s not directly on the hottest part of the heater. One would ask how the smell gets inside the tent if the hot air is sealed part of the aluminum inside the duct? The Smell gets through Aluminum?
@@ATEMOFFROAD I mean burn fuel inside without burn chamber ventilation :) and i recommend to buy quiet pump (less ticking noise) add fuel damper, and dont let pump to contact the case (isolate it with foam etc, + put a vibro isolation on the case + upgrade muffler (newer model or used car webasto muffler) it will give you more silent and comfort :)
Not Amazon, Hcalory they sent me a heater without the fuel cap and have been giving me the run around and refuse to even respond to emails. They want photos and videos of the problem so they can better decide what the problem is. The problem is they sent me an incomplete unit and refuse to correct the simple solution of just sending me the missing fuel cap. I can't imagine what would happen if you have a serious problem with the heater. No customer support at all without a fricking video. Buyer beware with this company
@@trapperd6518 links I provide are through Amazon not directly through Hcalory. buy one off Amazon then return that one 🤷♂️ Always use Amazon for this stuff. They don’t play games and the return process is simple and fast. Sorry for your experience but this doesn’t mean the heater is bad?
Great review, thank you! I have a couple of the older units and like them a lot, will be looking at one like this for my next purchase. One thing you should be aware of when using an infrared thermometer is that they work by detecting infrared emissions. Not all surfaces are equal in this regard. Shiny surfaces are notorious for lack of emissivity. Flat black and strangely enough water work very well. Do a quick Google on emissivity tables to shed some insight into their accuracy on various surfaces.
This unit has both of those in its design, this video goes into more depth of setup and controls. 🍻Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
I started the video assured this guy was just going to shill an expensive unit then disappear into his hobbit home. It happened but at least it was done respectfully. It doesnt look remarkable. If youre technologically and mechanically illiterate and own a smart phone it may have some advantages of plug and play thats worth the steep mark up. But no. No one listened to anybody. its no game changer. The AI knows when it gets cold and strikes while the iron is hot. As long as the power stays on the adsense must flow.
That’s fair, and I do mentioned in recent update videos other features that can be of use that other heaters don’t offer. The controller and controls are different and Improved and more user friendly. Your buying the updated controls and better enclosure. The old heater cannot do what this new heater can do on the fly. Especially For tent camping you won’t need to extend the controllers cable so the thermostat can be in the heated space. They fixed that with the new level mode heat setting. The Old heater is an indoor heater only unless you modify it. Also for advanced settings you must go into engineering mode and calculate altitude/fan and fuel pump speed if the thermostat is overrode. This setting would need to be changed every time based on location. The new heater takes the guess work out of all that and automatically adjusts. It’s more efficient this way and way easier to set up for the mobile user. No other heaters are at this level thats of course if your in need of better options. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Im cool with you, you seem interested in the heaters enough to enjoy them. Its a balance between the viewer and the adsense. This one dude just straight up shilled a welder a month ago and I said ooh weee me so mad. Now that mad is just permeating me with my perception of what im clicking on. I never noticed the inefficiency of the thermostat or cared about the ease of access of the plug and play. without a heater I do hot rocks so used to sleeping like a feral cat or 'nam vet. To not notice the dilemma of not having the "smart functions" of home HVAC. My only notice of how to improve it was flip out feet to get it off the ground higher w out disrupting its space saving design.Somewhat Easy solve for someone without a major dilemma of how do you even plug it in? I see how this one has features to expand the market for it.
I've seen the "old style" 8kw heaters for under $100 so why this plastic cased heater is $200 doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to buy. If they figured out how to quiet down the fuel pump then I'd might bite.
Wow those are getting low in cost, not bad don’t get me wrong I still love my Stella heater. But it’s heavily modified for my use. Here is a breakdown - faster heating - larger fuel tank - improved controls and controller - Bluetooth app - toolbox design - fast setup - 120vac power adapter - high elevation heating
@@ATEMOFFROADuntil they invest in an aluminum or stainless housing, it's is the same thing. It is not faster at heating, the controls do exactly the same thing just with a different layout, and the power supply is cheap. METAL housing and more fire protection.. maybe a CO2 alarm just in case and having the fuel tank right next to the unit is very stupid. A METAL 5 gallon tank is only 30$ and is much better suited given the pump is primed by gravity. There should be some ceramic insulation at the least between all sides and the tank/unit gap. They did absolutely nothing new here... Nothing.
Definitely not to be used by the stupid. The power connector is the same as a UK kettle-lead. 🤔 If a stupard loses or breaks the power lead, they may be tempted to try and plug the supply directly to the 230V wall-socket, with the attendant loud blue flash. 😱
I am very tempted to show what would happen in the case 120v AC was input into the mains. But In theory we can also predict what would happen. Remember the controllers control circuit is what relays the heater circuit to turn ON. The controllers control circuit is also low voltage/ low amps, Controlling a HIGH amperage heater circuit. I suspect if AC is applied the low voltage/amp control circuitry would take the hit before the possibility of the high amp heater circuit absorbing a load to catch fire. The circuit would be damaged like a fuse shorted, and in the form of a bad trace on the board. With the low current circuit damaged you would not even be able to turn the machine on with AC applied. It would sit there and wait. likey reducing any shock or hazards. You would just have a dead ☠️ heater. Ive also verified the the pin out on an AC 120v cable in relation to the 12v heater connections pinout and this is what I have found. If connected, AC Hot lands on DC ground, AC neutral lands On +12v.
How would this unit do heating a 30x40 non-insulated pole barn in your opinion? Can the entire unit be brought inside if the exhaust is vented outside or would I need to add a hose to bring outside air into the air intake? Thank you for this video, I'm looking for a solution to provide some level of warmth to my barn so I can work on vehicles during the winter months below freezing. I hope to hear your opinion as I have no experience with these heaters to date. I do like the design of this one but maybe something else may be more suited to my application.
Non insulated of that size is not very effective to be honest, is it open celling? There’s a lot of variables to consider. Yes the heater unit can be brought inside , the exhaust should never be in the heated space. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD thank you for responding. Yes the ceiling is open with some very thin insulation on the roof to prevent condensation. There are narrow gaps in the insulation that allow condensation that drips on my vehicles. I think my best use of funds right now would be enclosing the ceiling and insulating the walls before I try installing probably two of these units on opposing walls in the barn. I recently retired so I have plenty of time. I will eventually use this method for heat with some of the ideas I've gotten from other videos for maximum efficiency. Thanks again for responding.
A large uninsulated pole barn needs far more heat than this can provide. There is a reason folks pay thousands to keep a pole barn a few degrees warmer, starting with insulation.
I wouldn't even compare these to pelican plastic, drip anything that's slightly acetone style cleaner on it, and this plastic will instantly starti melting. This unit has a very short 3 inch duct exhaust, making it difficult to connect hose too that seems properly secured. fuel pump is a loud ticking, clacker style pump. If hcalory would update these small issues, it would be perfect.
I’d say not bad, I make it quieter in this video. 🍻Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
I’ve been using them for a few years now and I can say they have come along way. I recommend it, especially if SHTF having additional means to keep your family warm is essential 🍻
Update* The Diesel Heaters are back in stock on Amazon.com >> amzn.to/47KUrMq
This unit has a new “Level mode” that allows the heater to be adjusted based on a level of heat you choose, by toggling the keys on the pad. This allows the heater to automatically adjust based on the level of heat your set taking the guesswork out and the need to change settings in engineering mode. Like in the older heaters. Coupled with the Bluetooth app and this mode of control, no more need for thermostatic control and extension of the cable,
But It’s still a good idea though. 🍻
Winter is coming, we wish you all a warm safe journey!
Update: Power adapter has FC and CE logos and heater has CE, UK|CA, triangle with check mark ✅ aka A-Tick, and FCC ID: 2A7W6-SS2.
*ATTN* DISCLAIMER : THIS HEATER DOES NOT HAVE UL LABELS AND CERTIFICATIONS:
THIS IS A CHINESE DIESEL HEATER NOT MADE BY U.S STANDARDS. BEWARE NEVER DIRECTLY INPUT 120 VAC INTO THE HEATER. ALWAYS USE THE SUPPLIED CABLES AND ADAPTERS FOR USE. AND REFER TO USERS MANUAL. MISUSE OF THIS PRODUCT CAN CAUSE ELECTRICAL FIRE AND OR SHOCK.
Additional information:
Exceptional Heating Performance: Efficiently warms your space with a 5-8kW adjustable range. Achieve a cozy room temperature of 20°C swiftly while boasting a low fuel consumption of just 0.1-0.48L/h. Enjoy a whole night of warmth on just 6L oil.
Unparalleled Safety Features: Engineered with a crucial overheating protection function, ensuring your heater operates safely. Certified and compliant with industry-leading safety standards, guaranteeing peace of mind with every use.
Unique All-in-One Box Design: A compact and innovative storage structure that is easily portable. Designed for effortless installation, dismantling, and maintenance.
Smart Bluetooth App Control: Experience the convenience of remote heater control via the App. Save time, energy, and stay comfortable with just a tap on your iOS or Android device.
Versatile Applications: Perfectly suited for an array of settings, be it a car, caravan operating on 12V or 24V, or at home with 110V. Performs stably even at high altitudes, making it a reliable heating solution for various environments.
0:01 Hcalory SS2 Intro
0:38 Whats in the box
1:40 New VS Old Heater
6:50 Start Up
12:07 Wireless Smart Phone App Control Setup
Still same old heater with same motor , same pump ,same blast tube that gets cracked disc and clogged screen.
@@gloknor haha you forgot, improved controller, controls and enclosure. 🍻
Its the same old parts in it, the controller is almost never the issue it is the fan motor and pump that go first on these . I have had these for years and repaired them many many times . I still use them all the time but you need to have extra parts on hand . @@ATEMOFFROAD
why dont you just use an thermoelectric generator (Peltier module) on the exhaust to giv it the 12v power for the fan etc?
@@Moontrue1on1 the peltier modules are not really efficient enough to scavenge enough of the waste heat to do that
wThe power input socket is for 220 Volts in Europe - so an unaware use could feed high voltage into the heater and destroy the unit - and possibly his future ... DANGEROUS DESIGN FLAW
I do a fair bit of higher altitude (above 5000' elev) camping. The MaxSpeedingRods (and some similar Chinese heaters) report to have automatic calibration for altitude. Does this one have that? Another question, my heater port in the side of the canopy has a thermostatic probe... Is there a way to connect an external thermostat? I plan to have the diesel heater outside the truck (on ground or mounted to the side) so if it is measuring the ambient temperature of the outside that would be pointless and essentially it becomes a manual on/off remote control heater instead of turning on automatically at night while sleeping.
Nice video - thank you for the review. I look forward to your response.
The manufacturer claims the heater self adjusts for higher altitude, this would make sense as there are now two user friendly modes that can be accessed based on your setting. If you watch my winter camping videos I mention on the older heaters that extending the cable to reach the heated space is a must, because the thermostat is built inside the controller. And the thermostat automatically adjust the heater to room/tent heat you set and that if you Leave the thermostat outside it will cause the heater to run up to full load. Bringing the thermostat inside the heated space also allows the heater to throttle way down, saving fuel and power making the heater much more efficient and controllable . This mode is also on the new heater, unfortunately the cable is too short to bring the controller inside the tent or heated space. This new controller allows a secondary mode with no need to extend the cable, that if you are heating a space separate from the heater like a tint, new mode allows you to throttle up or down the heater regardless of where the thermostat is located. This new mode calculates the fuel and fan speeds based on elevation and outputs a steady controlled heat. We see this control in the form of green (low) to red (high) or hotter as the bars on the HMI. Hope this helps 🍻
Also with the new mode should no longer need to have the controller in the tent , just wireless control from phone app. 🍻
With Mode 2 it sounds like a fixed manual setting is the only option. If I wanted it to be about 50 degrees at night while sleeping I would be guessing on a setting based upon using it prior to going to bed and hoping it was close enough if the temp dropped or increased - correct? @@ATEMOFFROAD
@@MarkBuchanan3D yes a more user friendly manual mode if you will , it won’t automatically adjust you would still need to extend the cable as previously mentioned. For myself it works because once the space is heated the heater is usually throttled down to it’s lowest setting anyway. I keep a carbon monoxide detector in my tent it has a built in thermometer, so I’ll manually adjust based on that readout for the night. Now what would be really cool is if the app had a built in thermometer and through the app it automatically adjusted. I’m still playing with the app to see if that is an option
Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
does this one have the irritating pump click?
Insulate the pump with sound deadening materials
Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
Nah, $300 is insane when I can buy the older style for less than $120 and it does the exact same thing. This essentially has the same parts but now in flashy, new enclosure. I see this comment section flooded with people who have money to blow. Some of us don't have disposable income to just throw towards redundant "upgraded" products.
That’s fair, I know it’s not going to be for everyone’s use, I use for winter tent camping so we need something that is rugged and can hold up to the abuse of offroad camping. I respect your analysis, price must have gone up? Last I checked it was $200 still very affordable for this design heater. 🍻
I do like it, not at that price point
How are these say with a blend of motor oil in them. I understand you need to start it with kerosene or e85 or diesel. Then you can run motor oil in some of these .
Bluetooth, better thermostat control, larger fuel tank, easier set up, easy to pack and transport, if cost is a factor and an issue...
@@Tiersmoke92555 exactly,the controller and controls are different. Improved and more user friendly. Your buying the updated controls and better enclosure. The old heater cannot do what this new heater can do on the fly. Especially For tent camping you won’t need to extend the controllers cable so the thermostat can be in the heated space. They fixed that with the new level mode heat setting. The Old heater is an indoor heater only unless you modify it. Also for advanced settings you must go into engineering mode and calculate altitude/fan and fuel pump speed if the thermostat is overrode. This setting would need to be changed every time based on location. The new heater takes the guess work out of all that and automatically adjusts. It’s more efficient this way and way easier to set up for the mobile user. No others are at this level.🍻
That IEC 60320-1 C13 connector they use is extremely concerning. As there are many of them in every household if they own a desktop computer or various other AC appliances that commonly use them, it creates the possibility that a user could in inadvertently plug this unit into mains power with disastrous results for the unit and perhaps the user. As these would never pass CSA ANSI standards, they could get rejected if noticed by customs during the import procedure. Unfortunately, HCALORY is not the only manufacturer that is using these connectors for 12V, but hopefully they will get the message and change that. Just as you did due diligence by discussing the potential of adding a fuse, I'd recommend replacing that IEC connector with something like an XT60 or Anderson power pole.
That’s fair 🍻
As soon as I saw that I thought the same, "someone is going to plug a kettle lead into that", very dangerous. 120v or 240v instead of 12v would have some interesting results.
Only if the user is dum dum
FYI: If you unscrew the nose cone of the cigarette lighter plug-in end, there should be a an in-line fuse already in there so you should not have needed to strip your power cord to add another fuse. Also, if you want/need to add another fuse, it might be better to place it in-line inside of the heater case so there is nothing on your power cord to get snagged and damage it, leaving you stranded until it can be fixed. Seems like it might be a nice unit and easier to travel with it stored than the tall slim units. Thanks for the video!
Good point and all documented n the next video 🍻Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications
ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD Also note, you should not have the double fuse on that. Putting the ATO style one inline with the one built into the 12v adapter plug, changes the resistance of that circuit.
Keep in mind, the way a fuse works, is by protecting from a short/too high a draw DOWN stream from the point of the fuse. It does nothing up stream of it (hence why your car/rig has a fusible link directly off the battery, and so on)
@@obiesunstreak2409 actually this cig plug doesn’t have a fuse , so keep that in mind you don’t want to rely on a fuse that may actually not be there. I have an older incandescent spot light thats 12v the cig adapter never came with a built in fuse and it pull’s close to 12amps. The truck circuit is fused it’s not self protected. This part in the video my not be the best example of protecting the heater . The next video I share I corrected all this with the best possible solution for both the AC and Dc supplies. Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications
ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD are you sure? that plug you showed in the picture has the knurled tip that should unscrew and expose a glass style fuse inside with a small spring.
@@obiesunstreak2409 I’m sure, both of them in this video have no fuse 🤷♂️
I think this product is trading “convenience” for *safety*. Not wise to burn up your oxygen within the same room you’re heating. There was even a warning on the app sharing that. I would rather have both my exhaust and air intake from/for combustion to be outside of the area I’m heating to ensure an oxygen rich room.
if you’re camping within a tent with a lot of ventilation, then that’s understandable. But, would not suggest this for a more airtight environment like for a camper or van.
That’s fair, we use ours for tent camping, all fresh air and not recycled. 🍻
Regarding the fuse for 12v power: if you unscrew the knurled ring at the tip of the cigarette lighter plug, you may find there is already a glass fuse inside.
Yes but some don’t have the fuse so just have to watch that. At the time I wasn’t sure if I was going to put cig adapter or battery clamp, I had already put the fuse on. 🤦♂️
Most cig outlets can not source 20A most struggle at 10A.
@@TallTexasGMan that’s correct, I will address this next video, the cig adapter I have doesn’t have a fuse this is why I added one, it’s rated 15 amps 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD My 5kw runs at 19 watts on the medium setting and maximum is 41 watts on start up.
@@TheBioniXman You are joking? Maybe when it is running but not at start-up. It will require double your 41W and then some, during the start-up (and run-down) cycle.
is it really worth the extra $100 to $150 more cost over other brands? It has a plastic box, other side-by fuel tank units have metal boxes. Is it just the electronics or is there something more? While I am researching these for best use in my application, it looks like taller / tank over models are better suited for bolted down situations. These tank beside units would be obviously better for camping or moving around. Plastic case + fire = a worried me. Convenience of the electronics; is it really that different between brands.
The fact it use the standard power cable for the dc input is just asking for trouble
Yes I thought the same thing, but only in the wrong hands. The plug is standard I verified with an old computer power supply. The heater has its own power supply to adapt to AC. Someone would have to introduce a completely different cable for that to be a problem. Worst case senerio is the unit shorts out and could catch on fire. I guess will have to try it? Although, this is what the mfgs says: Unparalleled Safety Features: Engineered with a crucial overheating protection function, ensuring your heater operates safely. Certified and compliant with industry-leading safety standards, guaranteeing peace of mind with every use.
The DC connector is exactly the same as many 110 vac connections on all sorts of things. That could lead to a nasty condition if someone plugs that unit into 110 vac.
Yes I thought the same thing, but only in the wrong hands. The plug is standard I verified with an old computer power supply. The heater has its own power supply to adapt to AC. Someone would have to introduce a completely different cable for that to be a problem. Worst case senerio is the unit shorts out and could catch on fire. I guess will have to try it? Although, this is what the mfgs says: Unparalleled Safety Features: Engineered with a crucial overheating protection function, ensuring your heater operates safely. Certified and compliant with industry-leading safety standards, guaranteeing peace of mind with every use.
I was thinking the same, whichever way you look at it is a real bad idea - even on something you made yourself that only you will use, let alone a general Joe public consumer!
Using IEC C13 C14 connectors for 12V DC when it's usually used for 110/230V AC seems like a really bad idea. For DC and this amount of amps there exists connectors like XT60 or XT90, so why introduce this kind of potential hazard.
I am very tempted to show what would happen in the case 120v AC was input into the mains. But In theory we can also predict what would happen. Remember the controllers control circuit is what relays the heater circuit to turn ON. The controllers control circuit is also low voltage/ low amps, Controlling a HIGH amperage heater circuit. I suspect if AC is applied the low voltage/amp control circuitry would take the hit before the possibility of the high amp heater circuit absorbing a load to catch fire. The circuit would be damaged like a fuse shorted, and in the form of a bad trace on the board. With the low current circuit damaged you would not even be able to turn the machine on with AC applied. It would sit there and wait. likey reducing any shock or hazards. You would just have a dead ☠️ heater.
Ive also verified the pinout on an AC 120v cable in relation to the 12v heater connections pinout and this is what I have found. If connected, AC Hot lands on DC ground, AC neutral lands On +12v.
@@ATEMOFFROAD probably won't be dangerous isn't good enough - the metalwork on a faulty heater could easily become live if mains voltages are applied because there is no protective earth, and if you can plug it into the mains as easy as you can a kettle...someone will
Be great if I could use this in my apartment
Is it me or the fact that they use a plug that is identical to a computer power supply could lead to people plugging in the 120 or 240 (europe) volt power in to the 12 volt plug?
not a huge fan that they used a standard 240/120V connection for a 12 volt appliance. that's an accident waiting to happen.
Are these units weatherproof? I want to mount mine on the side of my van on the outside. Right now my diesel heater sits on the ground outside with a plastic bag over the top and the controller is covered to protect from rain and snow. Hcalory does not mention anything about being weatherproof for this model or their suitcase version which makes me wonder. Thanks for the video.
They are not weather proof unfortunately you would have to protect the air inlet side where the fan is from water getting inside. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD so how do you protect yours when in use? Is it outside somewhere?
Nice job god bless
Thank you 🍻
I have a question I have a 2001 dodge Cummins extended cab. My heater core went out. I was wondering if you would recommend me installing a diesel heater in it somehow. Instead of having to find a god mechanic to replace my heater core and dash board
It would take up some space, I’ve seen people use this heater inside there trucks usually for when they are parked but I suppose it would work just as good on the road. You will want to do your best to pipe the exhaust outside and make sure it’s not going to burn anything or leak any exhaust into the cab. It gets really hot, Consider having a carbon monoxide detector close by. 🍻
ruclips.net/video/EsNUvE0NQr4/видео.htmlsi=602p3qMmoJrr6TpC
Nathan of RUclips channel Class A Living has uploaded a video showing how he installed a diesel heater in his truck. ☮️
Leaking a fair bit of diesel from the filler cap but otherwise looks ok
Think the fuel hose under the box near the exhaust-exit is just a NO-GO! Unsafe!
Maybe
$540.94 here in Canada
Yikes that’s steep!
Please forgive my ignorance, but if I need electricity anyway, why wouldn't I just buy an electric heater?
It's for camping purposes or van life.
Electric heater request too much watts vs a diesel powered heater. And probably 10amps or more depending on what electric heater
Truckers have been using this webasto knockoff type heater for years
Because this sips a very small amount of electricity to only run the pump and glow plug, the primary power source of the heat is the diesel. It isn’t intended for home use traditionally.
@@ZeroAlligator I've seen a handful of people using it for their unheated shop or garages as well... Very economical to setup the exhaust out & just power it up
Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
WOW this new style heater in that box is a game changer for diesel heaters!! However I still find it hilarious it's being marketed as an 8Kw heater when in reality it's only a 5Kw!! 😂😂
We will find out soon, it says 8KW on the name plate right on the heater. 🤷♂️
If you haven't heard of John McK 47, I would suggest you watch his YT 17 part series on diesel heaters! He explains why there's no such thing as an 8Kw heater. It's all marketing and a way to deceive the consumer. Also he does an excellent job explaining how diesel heaters work and how to repair and maintain your heater. Worth every minute of your time!
@@alanosborne1947 never have , thanks for sharing 🍻
This isnot a new style heater, just a new style box to hold it. As for the heat output...these style heater have always been...whatever. I have a 3Kw and a 5Kw. They bot produce the same amount of heat on high. I beleiev they both offer more than 5Kw. Perhaps the early models from 2018 or so were all 8Kw?
Looks like a cool setup, please update how it works for you. We have a Vevor 5KW and it carbons up from running it on low too much, but any higher runs you out of the tent, even with windows open.
I’ll keep you updated for sure most likely through a camp video though. The other heater was a VEVor so I know what you mean by carbon buildup. I usually turn mine up on high for a about 5 minutes before I shut it down especially when I go to winterize it. Haha I’ve been run out of my tent before too when I first started using these. lol until I found out the thermostat is built into the controller, so extending the cable and having the controller in the heated space then allows the thermostat to see the space is becoming heated and throttles way down as it get closer to the set temperature. It’s More efficient too and solved that problem where you loose control. I do know you can go into engineering mode and manually turn down the fans speed and the fuel pump switch frequency, to by pass the thermostat to turn the heater down. But I never really messed with it. It just seemed easier to extend the controller cable. On the new heater the interface is improved, the mode with the bars that moves up and down allows you adjust the temperature up or down to a setting you like so should no longer need to have the controller in the tent , just wireless control from my phone. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD I own 3 Oriental knock-offs and none of them are anywhere _near_ as reliable or well made as my _Eberspacher_ that they are trying to emulate! Main thing is the thermostat - the _real_ one goes into standby once set temp. is reached, it just shuts down and monitors the temp. until it needs to fire up again. I can leave it on all the time and it doesn't pose any threat to my valuables. Cheapo copies just pump diesel constantly unless you shut them off - as far as I know; do any of yours go into standby from a stat signal?
I had to replace one of their motors and really struggled to find a matching part - the one I bought had different electrics from the one in the picture so had to be modified. It only worked for an hour then quit, but the pump carried on filling the burn chamber with juice - lucky I was there to pull the plug!
That's NOT an idiot-proof power receptacle as it's identical to those which can be plugged directly into a 120V circuit. Dumb design.
horrible exhaust and unsafe...stuffed in a cheap tool box?..dam..the core unit is the only good thing...everything else is junk...exhaust is a 90 degree angle...what could go wrong.
Remember your USE of a this heater can be defined as totally different than one who uses for camping and traveling. It’s been tried and trued.
This is the best heater hands down for tent camping, I’ve seen your other comments about garage heating diys , this is the heater for those that don’t want a big DIY project, they want the convenience of buying a heater ready to go out of the box. The controls are way more user friendly and the overall design is excellent for winter tent camping, van, Rv trailer and overlanding 🤷♂️ There is literally nothing that can compete with this heater that’s affordable and as convenient. The simple fact that it packs properly into a car is awesome. Also the 90 degree exhaust tube on these you don’t like , are 💯 solid and of way thicker material that no other heater or kit offers,. The other heater in this video uses a flex exhaust tube which CRACK very easily, I’ve already bought three replacements of these at almost 25 dollars a piece, the flexible tube is very thin and cannot handle the high heat at a 90 bend, the material fatigues, brittles and cracks then leaks over time with use.
I think it is stupid that a company used an AC C13 - C14 style plug for a low voltage DC application. You know someone will grab a PC cord and plug that thing into the wall.
I agree, both the manufacturer and the doer are stupid. 🤷♂️ I believe they are updating it, and have been notified by me personally. 🍻
I encourage youtubers to loudly and repeatedly complain about the unsafe design of these chinese units that use an IEC connector port that is designed for 120 volt mains power to take a low voltage current (after the supplied transformer steps down 120v to 12v). Keep those plugs and receptacles in their own lane and NEVER cross adapt. The reason is for reducing the chances that some unaware user in the future will get their hands on one of these units and see that IEC shape plug and just use a 120v cord. Not only will this fry the board, it will energize those inside wires and exposed connection points with deadly 120v potential for death. For those who already have one of these units, change the IEC port on the side of the case to something that is designed for low voltage uses like an XT30, XT60, or Anderson connector. It will take a little time and parts, but it will reduce the the risk of electrocution for all future users of this nice little heater.
I agree, it should be changed. I believe to China, that IEC is standard low voltage 24vdc or less. In reality two things will happen, the 120vac will wait just like on any plug that’s plugged into the wall and on the other end not or the unit catches on fire post hit of the incorrect incoming voltage. A good GFCI should protect the user. 🍻
You know there’s no such thing as a 8kw Chinese heater
Only 5kw rebranded as 8kw. Do the math it’s well documented. Lots of well explained RUclips vids about this scam
Silly ain’t it
My word guy BORING . WE CARE ABOUT 3 THINGS , TANK SIZE . HOW MANY LITERS USED PER NIGHT , QUALITY OF HEAT PROVIDED .
I can get 3 8 hr nights on 6 liters easily and that’s heating a tent. 🍻 watch this one guy>>Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications
ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
It’s designed to look like a tool/tackle box to hide it from your insurance company. Chinese Diesel Heater… sounds like something on the top of a fire investigator’s checklist.
They’re coming , Hurry hide all the diesel heaters 😂😂 it’s probably a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher and carbon monoxide detector around. I use them outside when snow camping in a tent. Not much can catch on fire in those conditions. 🍻
My father in laws name was Mike Stewart really miss that guy, but eh everything is made in China these days 🤷♂️
Does this heater set outside?? Or can it be modified with a longer exhaust so it can set inside??
@@nightwolf1963 it’s made to be inside, I would wrap the exhaust and be sure to always have a carbon monoxide detector close by. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROADwhat kind of distance from the duct can it be felt
You list a disclaimer about its suitability then you give links to the supplier ?, personally I'd never buy this heater because of the dangers with monoxide poisoning in a enclosed place, the manufacture recommended these units for car, trucks and mobile homes, in some countries these heaters have been banned because of safety issues in vehicles.
Yes that’s because I use this heater , but never in my home. It’s a good heater for winter tent camping and I always have a carbon monoxide detector in my tent. I always run a disclaimer. I want no part of peoples miss use of this product. 🍻
How long before someone plugs it in to 120 vac since they use the same plug? Bad choice of plug, especially without an internal fuse.
Yes it is , in todays world people are trained on labels and voltage types so its less likely but very possible. If it can happen it will. Most likely short the pcm and the AC will just sit there. 😩 not good at all, We should try it.
bit of a joke ....YOU need power to run it ,,,what do you do with no electricity ...lmassoff .
I like this question, so I’d have to revert back to the buddy heater system as far as heaters go. I like the the diesel heater mainly because it’s like a hot air dryer, it keeps any moisture out of the tent. Going back to the basics a good sleeping bag rated for the temps your in, warm clothing, and you can also boil hot water and place into metal or plastic bottles and place those in your sleeping bag. Are all good ways to keep warm when sleeping. You can boil water with a camp fire. Do hand warmers count? Ever seen a zippo body warmer? I use those for hunting they work great 👍🏼
Small complaint. All of these units should have a Celsius / Fahrenheit setting.
This one does has both, later in this video I change it you will see it’s very simple to do. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD ok, great
Just spend the extra money on a fuel injection kerosene heater that can be used safely indoors without having to drill a hole in the wall to let the exhaust fumes out.
Nice, any links to those? Thanks 🍻
Nice product at first glance, but the biggest alarm bell for me is the choice of power connector. While it's good they haven't used a proprietary connector, the fact they are using an IEC C14 mains connector is a huge red flag; someone could very easily connect a cable at mains voltage into this unit. I think it's safe to say this unit has not got any legitimate safety approvals for import to the USA/Canada/Europe. I notice it has CE/UK CA/FCC markings, but these will not be legitimate.
Fair enough!
Do you mean it would be dangerous only if someone used a cord that's not supplied with the unit? Their ac adapter is good right?
@@bobbarker5884 yes someone would have to introduce a totally different cable for it to be problem. There is nothing wrong with the supplied cables and adapters other than the fact that the connection type is used on other common voltages like 120VAC that some could mistakenly plug into the heater.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Agreed, and that is the problem. Sadly, things have to be pretty fool proof, and as that unit effectively has a mains connector on it, I would question the authenticity of the standards markings. It wouldn't stop me buying one though; it seems a great piece of kit. I would probably change the connector though.
Only problem is when you make it fool proof, somebody makes a better fool!
It the best heater,,, hot pipe is in my fire place and it helps to heat my house I could save money if I had one in every room,,,,, It will heat for 2 day on low on one take
Awesome use for the heater, please be sure to have a carbon monoxide detector close by. 🍻
Too bad it can’t be entirely gas powered. I don’t wanna have to buy a large batter as well to run it for camping..
can run it off a gas Generator ?
If used in the UK ,your house insurance will be void if it causes a fire and ends up burning ur house down ,inc thos in it.😮😊
I’d never use this in my house , we have legitimate HVAC heaters . I use this for a tent. Camping.
I used for like 3-4 days then got an E10, and the prime button won't work.
Never point the exhaust up, and always turn the heater on high at startup and before shutdown
I couldn’t watch your whole video as you bore the life out of me.
Did you at any stage mention the btu output
That’s fair ! 😅 27200 BTU
Can you turn off the audio from the controller? That is super annoying, I would not buy this just because of that.
Yes absolutely 👍🏼
I will be impressed when they start using metal housing, full metal jacket for that thing is the only way. No plastic, and the biggest fail is it continues to run and waste fuel after reaching desired temp. I use the old style you showed, but I removed it and rebuilt it into a metal box with plenty of fire protection.
Yeah I have no control over that, it’s most likely the plastic they use on engines that can handle hight heat, but they could be listening which is good for new products. As far as controls go the modes seem very simple to throttle down to the lowest setting, no more trouble with that. which is pretty low. If need be any lower you may as well just turn it off. 🍻
You can turn it onto temperature sensor mode instead of pump hertz mode... the controlers have a thermometer which switches off when it acheives the target temp...
New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
Thee is no limit to the amount of time and money that can be spent to make you more comfortable using a liquid fuel heater. There is a reason this type of heater is generally so affordable. They make is safe enough. Most mishaps occur due to improper installation so a redesign by the manufacturer would only serve to increase the price..
I use the brief case model in my Kodiak Canvas tent and it's been worth every penny spent.
Awesome! I was looking at that one too, almost go it. Good hear it’s worth it. 🍻
Is the briefcase model from the same company?
I wonder if I can put this in my sprinter van and run the exhaust to the outside of the van
Absolutely 👍🏼 check this out :amzn.to/3Pe1ZjV
Honestly, you do not buy these heaters for their ability to strug-off being dropped🤣😅😆🤣😜🤪
I would, they need to handle off road stress during transport, the case needs to be rugged enough to protect the heater and fuel tank. We take our heaters where vans don’t go.
Old box design seem to be better
Sounds like a commercial for a cheaper (plastic) made unit 😏
The heater and controls are solid, but we know it’s not going to be for everyone. 🤷♂️
run your exhaust through a little radiator to utilise the heat waste through the exhaust.
I like it 👍🏼🍻
Respectfully, I have no idea why anyone would want to get involved with a diesel space heater that needs to be vented like these things do. I use propane Big Buddy or Little Buddy heaters in my deer stands and tent when portable heat is needed. If you don't want to use a 20lb propane tank to fire them you can buy a Big Buddy and a "Flame King" 1Lb refill kit and 1lb refillable tanks for allot less than this unit costs. These refill kits are very safe to use and way more less expensive than buying prefilled 1lb propane tanks. Without getting into all of the details about these heaters if you do the research and follow the instructions on how to care for the units they will provide safe reliable portable heat for a long time. My first Big Buddy heater that I bought in 2007, for my deer stand, is still working as if new. Ps: The Flame King refill kits, that have three refillable tanks included cost about $75.00 and the Big Buddy costs about $125.00 as of 12/23. Also most of the parts you will ever need to maintain these heaters ( ignitors,fuel filters etc...) are available on Amazon or at Tractor Supply. Just saying...
I’m not ignoring the fact that those are great heaters, particularly for your main use, this heat is a bit different though. The heat on a diesel heater is sourced from a heat exchanger and not a blue flame. Also I’ve had several big buddies and the last time I used one in my tent my sons sleeping bag caught on fire because it slipped off the cot , totally my fault as I left the heater on over night un attended. Should have turned it off! Lastly and probably the biggest reasons I use a diesel heater over propane is that, # 1 I can heat two spaces/ (tents) and the hot air is temperature controlled. This means it’s like a clothing dryer keeping the inside of your tent #2 (moisture free). Check out these videos. 🍻 Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications
ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
Winter Tent Camping In My Jeep Wrangler Tj - Hcalory Diesel Heater Update + Christmas Tree Cutting
ruclips.net/video/NFNNrBvggW8/видео.html
@ATEMOFFROAD I get it my friend you make some good points.
WAUW, using a household plug to feed 12 volt, ......... asking for problems, KING of diesel heaters......😫😫😫
BTW, it's just a normal chinese heater in a facy box........
You act like it is something new. It is the same heater in a different case.😂
🤣🤣
Doesn’t the 12v cigarette adapter have a 20a buss fuse in it
No 10 amp but the one I made in this video has the 20a ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=YLRVUq0AcSh5MWLW
how long can u run this on a full tank. thanks
I cAn get about 3, 8 hour nights on of a full tank on low. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD dang thats pretty good
Power inlet is shit - easily to plug in an IEC mains power lead into it
I’ve never had a problem with this connection as it solid, but yes someone can place the wrong voltage on the heater and produce magic smoke. That’s fair!
I'm also a Jeep person
Awesome 😎
i have a small heater for my camper. i took out the small fuel can an used a 5 gallon jeep/military can that i modified for more fuel to fill less often!
I hit your link to purchase the hcalory can't find it anywhere
New stock is available link: amzn.to/47KUrMq
Is the product Listed to UL requirements? If not insurance will not cover it.
Power adapter has FC and CE logos heater has CE, UK|CA, triangle with check mark ✅, and FCC ID: 2A7W6-SS2. Does this mean anything?
The triangle logo is called an A-Tick apparently ?
No need for a fuel filter it all burns up in the combustion chamber
That’s fair. 🍻
Using an IEC C13/C14 connector (Kettle Cord) for 12v is utterly horrifying given the risk of somebody accidentally plugging in a 240V cable
It is
Have you confirmed that it is truly 8kW ??
It puts out a massive amount of heat that’s all I know 27200 BTU🍻
Its still the same heater everyone else is selling. Just put into a plastic box instead. Same cheap muffler and pipe etc. Just way too much cost for my liking. No fuel filter or fuse shows me that they are not going to go the extra mile give you their best.
@@ATEMOFFROAD If you take an unreliable motor put it in the most beautiful luxury car with all the comforts, features and upgrades, in the end your still left with an unreliable car. You can sell your product to gullible people, the smart ones will see it for what it is.
@@hoosierdaddy3705 that’s fair and I respect your opinion, I know the heater is not for everyone. 🍻
This is chintzy as hell compared to the old unit... they literally took some random pelican clone case and threw parts in it. Honestly its probably a fire hazard because that plastic is probably not rated for some of the temperatures that are going to be near it.
Honestly I’ve been using this heater for two months now and it’s tried and true for winter tent camping, and that’s probably the most rugged abuse these heaters get. We know its not for everyone, but this is an excellent affordable choice for camping. BTW the case is actually steel. Check out the video >>Winter Tent Camping In My Jeep Wrangler Tj - Hcalory Diesel Heater Update + Christmas Tree Cutting
ruclips.net/video/NFNNrBvggW8/видео.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD Hmm, that is fair. It looks plastic by perhaps my eyes deceive me, its definitely a Chinese parts checklist and throw it in a box kind of build though. If its metal at least that's probably save at least, or at least as safe as any any other diesel heater.
I think it's a bad idea having the fuel cap on the side of the tank
Maybe 🤔
When are they going to stop using that shitty green fuel tube 🤦
Better fuel line is always the best way to go. but this line has lasted me over two years now. I mean it’s cheap but it’s also working far beyond my expectations. 🤷♂️
i hear that if you buy a to big one , then it will run more on low speed and you will get a build up of soot inside it, and it will stop working. Do it have a auto cleaning or do you just have to turn it to max sometimes to burn the soot away?
The shutdown cycle clears out the heater automatically. It’s a good idea to run on high for 2-3 minutes before you shut down the heater. 🍻
Boy that lid for the remote looks like it will break off on week 1
Still on there 😅
while having a connector for the 12v power is nice, the one they chose is a no no as if someone didnt know or didnt have the original 12v plug they might try and plug 120v wall power into it as its a standard IEC power connector that you find on computers and other mains voltage devices.
Tune it up with twin exhausts and a fat turbo😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
🤣🤣
I forgot one thing can the Celsius be changed to Fahrenheit
Absolutely, closer to the end of the video you can see in the display I changed it to F
Could you heat a house with this? My home has no heating whatsoever and winter is knocking on our door 🥶
Maybe parts, how big is your house. Someone on here said they hear a 35’ yacht
I have one in a large RV and it’s very good. You could heat a room with this easily.
It’s a 3 bedroom, we’ve no heating whatsoever and kerosene is now more expensive than diesel in our great little country. I know it wouldn’t heat a house but if it even took the chill and dampness out I’d be happy, thanks for the reply
Or would certainly help, you could also look into running it on heating oil or red diesel as essentially they’re both the same thing and 50% cheaper than white diesel from the pump. Also I can say this really will help with dampness. I had it in a damp garage and it sorted it out in less than a week and I was able to fix the walls and paint it.
Same diesel heater in Australia less than a $100 same brand
Very nice 👍🏼
Nice video! 2 questions. How many sq ft do you think this would heat and is there any smell at all inside the space your heating? Been looking at these and I’m curious. Thanks 🙌🏼
I would think a full size RV/ travel VAN would be sufficient enough to heat for some perspective, there’s to many variables to really get a good solid idea Sq ft. How well it’s insulated, and how cold it is? For example I’ve taken my heater in 17F and heated my roof top tent to about 79F on low. Little to no insulation. It’s made to heat cars , vans, campers RVS and I’ve seen people use these for small shops and cabins. As for the smell, I get an occasional wiff of diesel usually at start up and shutdown when the unit is running rich. Once it leans out I don’t smell anything. Just be sure to keep the exhaust far from the air intake and you will be good. For RVS and campers I see people keep the entire units inside and poke a hole through the floor or wall for the exhaust so these heaters can be inside circulating the indoor heat which would make the heater more efficient VS my use to heat up a tent and I’m heating cold air all the time when In use. Always have a carbon monoxide detector close by i the heated space. I like mine because it also has a thermometer built in. I listed the link in the description box of this videos I Hope that helps and thanks for watching. 🍻
I use one to heat a 35' yacht in the UK. Zero degrees c in the winter. It is uninsulated and gets hot on the low setting...
@@stevenlarratt3638 awesome, just curious with that temperature , do you keep the heater indoors or outside?
@@ATEMOFFROAD my heater is outside in a locker, i have the exhaust system running in thelocker which keeps that area luke warm, and combustion intake drawing from the top of the locker. Then the non combustion air intake side i have rigged an intake from the inside of the yacht, at a high point, to recirculate warm air and route the internal 75mm 5m long insulated duct around the yacht internally to where i might need it. I have also pierced holes in certain sections and that heats other sections if needed. Almost like a sprinkler/soaker system in a garden. The holes are at strategic places to warm the main cabin area, when i am sleeping at the forward cabin so in the morning the fore cabin can be at 20 degrees c. And the main cabin around 12 degrees so it isnt a shock, it warms the main cabin up in a matter of mins. I vent the cabins the main heat is in to keep condensation down a bit. It is a dry heat however so no issues from any from the unit. It is purely cold air hitting warm air...
@@stevenlarratt3638 great set up sounds solid. I was curious about anti gelling additives and if you ever needed to use those in precaution to sudden temperature drops as this heater doesn’t offer any insulation surrounding the tank. I was told by the local gas station that there diesel fuels are “winter blends” where they have pre mixed additives to prevent gelling. This makes sense as they probably would not be able to pump the diesel in sub freezing areas. Thinking ahead I have not yet needed the use of additives, but I do move my heater from warm to colder climates so some stations may not have the winter blend available. Do you see this as a problem on your end? Should there be concern using an additive in the heater? What happens to the heater if the diesel gels? Any thoughts? 🍻
Very bad idea make this 12 v connection... If it lost contact one time, heater will burn fuel inside without ventilation, with no exhaust. And its cant be just turned off immideately, heater must burn all fuel in chamber and reduce the heat inside before turning off... * about duct - this new plastic covered duct wil smell, its not for heat, this is vent duct only... Good luck :)t
If power is lost yes everything would stop and you may have unburned fuel inside the heater, no exhaust gets inside the tent because the burner/exhaust is completely isolated from the hot air ventilation. It’s a heat exchanger. As far as the duct goes, I prefer to use the cardboard/ aluminum duct the heater comes with at the outlet. Then couple the grey/aluminum one to the end of that, this way it’s not directly on the hottest part of the heater. One would ask how the smell gets inside the tent if the hot air is sealed part of the aluminum inside the duct? The Smell gets through Aluminum?
@@ATEMOFFROAD I mean burn fuel inside without burn chamber ventilation :) and i recommend to buy quiet pump (less ticking noise) add fuel damper, and dont let pump to contact the case (isolate it with foam etc, + put a vibro isolation on the case + upgrade muffler (newer model or used car webasto muffler) it will give you more silent and comfort :)
@@vladimirkislov2056 check out this video , love to hear what you think overall 🍻ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=JJcUR5PZXLTuEoLe
Just need to add a silent fuel pump and it's golden. What? Those don't exist you say? I beg to differ. I sell them. 100% electronic. 100% silent.
Awesome , have a link to order them? 🍻
No link?
Nope. It's not mass produced. Each one is made for the customer.
Does the air coming out smell like diesel fuel??
No, possible to get a smell only if the heater is running rich and the exhaust gets into the fresh air inlet .
Don't buy this heater. If you have a problem of any kind your screwed. Take it from me their customer service/support is horrible and nonexistent.
It’s Amazon they take back everything, please share your experience. Thank you
Not Amazon, Hcalory they sent me a heater without the fuel cap and have been giving me the run around and refuse to even respond to emails. They want photos and videos of the problem so they can better decide what the problem is. The problem is they sent me an incomplete unit and refuse to correct the simple solution of just sending me the missing fuel cap. I can't imagine what would happen if you have a serious problem with the heater. No customer support at all without a fricking video. Buyer beware with this company
@@trapperd6518 links I provide are through Amazon not directly through Hcalory. buy one off Amazon then return that one 🤷♂️ Always use Amazon for this stuff. They don’t play games and the return process is simple and fast. Sorry for your experience but this doesn’t mean the heater is bad?
NG..too much for the same thing..,..😢
🤷♂️I guess the price went up 😅
does heater have auto shut off for co & co2 detection?
There is some type of low oxygen sensor on there, I always keep another carbon monoxide detector on hand and in the heated space. 🍻
Hi:
If it's chinese I don't want or need it!!!
That’s fair! Let’s get America to make stuff again 👍🏼
Great review, thank you!
I have a couple of the older units and like them a lot, will be looking at one like this for my next purchase.
One thing you should be aware of when using an infrared thermometer is that they work by detecting infrared emissions. Not all surfaces are equal in this regard. Shiny surfaces are notorious for lack of emissivity. Flat black and strangely enough water work very well. Do a quick Google on emissivity tables to shed some insight into their accuracy on various surfaces.
Good info right there, thanks for sharing 🍻
how do you know that it is 8Kbtu?
often faked
I will test true output, mathematically I’m not so sure 🤔 🍻
toolbox all in one design and bluetooth looks like a winner
Absolutely 🍻
Great Vid!, however, nothing beats a Toggle switch for on off and a Dial thermostat, two features most desirable for a walk away and enjoy
This unit has both of those in its design, this video goes into more depth of setup and controls. 🍻Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications
ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
I started the video assured this guy was just going to shill an expensive unit then disappear into his hobbit home. It happened but at least it was done respectfully. It doesnt look remarkable. If youre technologically and mechanically illiterate and own a smart phone it may have some advantages of plug and play thats worth the steep mark up. But no. No one listened to anybody. its no game changer.
The AI knows when it gets cold and strikes while the iron is hot. As long as the power stays on the adsense must flow.
That’s fair, and I do mentioned in recent update videos other features that can be of use that other heaters don’t offer. The controller and controls are different and Improved and more user friendly. Your buying the updated controls and better enclosure. The old heater cannot do what this new heater can do on the fly. Especially For tent camping you won’t need to extend the controllers cable so the thermostat can be in the heated space. They fixed that with the new level mode heat setting. The Old heater is an indoor heater only unless you modify it. Also for advanced settings you must go into engineering mode and calculate altitude/fan and fuel pump speed if the thermostat is overrode. This setting would need to be changed every time based on location. The new heater takes the guess work out of all that and automatically adjusts. It’s more efficient this way and way easier to set up for the mobile user. No other heaters are at this level thats of course if your in need of better options. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Im cool with you, you seem interested in the heaters enough to enjoy them. Its a balance between the viewer and the adsense. This one dude just straight up shilled a welder a month ago and I said ooh weee me so mad. Now that mad is just permeating me with my perception of what im clicking on.
I never noticed the inefficiency of the thermostat or cared about the ease of access of the plug and play. without a heater I do hot rocks so used to sleeping like a feral cat or 'nam vet. To not notice the dilemma of not having the "smart functions" of home HVAC. My only notice of how to improve it was flip out feet to get it off the ground higher w out disrupting its space saving design.Somewhat Easy solve for someone without a major dilemma of how do you even plug it in? I see how this one has features to expand the market for it.
@@gantz4u all good points, thanks for watching 🍻
Do you think the plastic will melt where it is next to the exhaust pipe?
No it’s a hight temperature plastic
Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
I've seen the "old style" 8kw heaters for under $100 so why this plastic cased heater is $200 doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to buy. If they figured out how to quiet down the fuel pump then I'd might bite.
Wow those are getting low in cost, not bad don’t get me wrong I still love my Stella heater. But it’s heavily modified for my use.
Here is a breakdown
- faster heating
- larger fuel tank
- improved controls and controller
- Bluetooth app
- toolbox design
- fast setup
- 120vac power adapter
- high elevation heating
@@ATEMOFFROADuntil they invest in an aluminum or stainless housing, it's is the same thing. It is not faster at heating, the controls do exactly the same thing just with a different layout, and the power supply is cheap. METAL housing and more fire protection.. maybe a CO2 alarm just in case and having the fuel tank right next to the unit is very stupid. A METAL 5 gallon tank is only 30$ and is much better suited given the pump is primed by gravity. There should be some ceramic insulation at the least between all sides and the tank/unit gap. They did absolutely nothing new here... Nothing.
@@JSabh Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
I live in Wisconsin where today in late November its 22°. Will this thing warmup a 2 car garage?
That will be tuff , especially if not insulated, but it may help 🍻
@ATEMOFFROAD Roof and door are insulated. Thanks for the info bud.🇺🇸🤙
@@rad5.8fox7 should definitely help New stock is available link: amzn.to/47KUrMq
The hose you suggested smells awful when used
Mine doesn’t smell 🤷♂️ ruclips.net/video/NFNNrBvggW8/видео.htmlsi=wS02ye5QbVB6PlLu
Definitely not to be used by the stupid. The power connector is the same as a UK kettle-lead. 🤔 If a stupard loses or breaks the power lead, they may be tempted to try and plug the supply directly to the 230V wall-socket, with the attendant loud blue flash. 😱
I agree, if it can happen it may happen, standard here in the US is 120VAC only on that connector.
I am very tempted to show what would happen in the case 120v AC was input into the mains. But In theory we can also predict what would happen. Remember the controllers control circuit is what relays the heater circuit to turn ON. The controllers control circuit is also low voltage/ low amps, Controlling a HIGH amperage heater circuit. I suspect if AC is applied the low voltage/amp control circuitry would take the hit before the possibility of the high amp heater circuit absorbing a load to catch fire. The circuit would be damaged like a fuse shorted, and in the form of a bad trace on the board. With the low current circuit damaged you would not even be able to turn the machine on with AC applied. It would sit there and wait. likey reducing any shock or hazards. You would just have a dead ☠️ heater.
Ive also verified the the pin out on an AC 120v cable in relation to the 12v heater connections pinout and this is what I have found. If connected, AC Hot lands on DC ground, AC neutral lands On +12v.
How would this unit do heating a 30x40 non-insulated pole barn in your opinion? Can the entire unit be brought inside if the exhaust is vented outside or would I need to add a hose to bring outside air into the air intake? Thank you for this video, I'm looking for a solution to provide some level of warmth to my barn so I can work on vehicles during the winter months below freezing. I hope to hear your opinion as I have no experience with these heaters to date. I do like the design of this one but maybe something else may be more suited to my application.
Non insulated of that size is not very effective to be honest, is it open celling? There’s a lot of variables to consider. Yes the heater unit can be brought inside , the exhaust should never be in the heated space. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD thank you for responding. Yes the ceiling is open with some very thin insulation on the roof to prevent condensation. There are narrow gaps in the insulation that allow condensation that drips on my vehicles. I think my best use of funds right now would be enclosing the ceiling and insulating the walls before I try installing probably two of these units on opposing walls in the barn. I recently retired so I have plenty of time. I will eventually use this method for heat with some of the ideas I've gotten from other videos for maximum efficiency. Thanks again for responding.
@@eyeorewolf that sounds like a good plan 🍻
Hi , New video is up covering all the questions you asked on this heater. 🍻 ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=BxCFMqSJN6QPi7tT
A large uninsulated pole barn needs far more heat than this can provide. There is a reason folks pay thousands to keep a pole barn a few degrees warmer, starting with insulation.
Just buy a normal kerosene heater been using them since I was a kid and they work just fine
How can I remove Bluetooth from heater
The same way I showed how to make sure it’s on is where you turn it off
It the noise i cant handle , why so loud
I don’t even hear it in my tent when I’m camping 🤷♂️
I wouldn't even compare these to pelican plastic, drip anything that's slightly acetone style cleaner on it, and this plastic will instantly starti melting. This unit has a very short 3 inch duct exhaust, making it difficult to connect hose too that seems properly secured. fuel pump is a loud ticking, clacker style pump. If hcalory would update these small issues, it would be perfect.
How the fuel ticking noise level??
I’d say not bad, I make it quieter in this video. 🍻Diesel Heaters For Winter Tent Camping - Upgrades and Modifications
ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.html
That’s an awesome little heater there. Maybe I’ll look at getting one for when we go winter camping. Great video too!
I’ve been using them for a few years now and I can say they have come along way. I recommend it, especially if SHTF having additional means to keep your family warm is essential 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thankfully it's not an essential thing in my climate but I think it'll be great for when we head somewhere cold.
So what about using home heating fuel oil?
Isn’t it pretty much the same as diesel?
What other fuels can
SAFELY be used?
JP8?
These can burn kerosene, its similar to diesel , but doesn’t gell as quick as some diesel. I’m not sure about jp8 but kerosene is good up to -40 F. 🍻
Check out this video>>ruclips.net/video/Ug-3fjjCPWE/видео.htmlsi=zTqlWLjUB9hwlanJ