I’m thinking we remove the engine, take it back to the shop, tear it down, fix it and sell it at a huge profit. After all, it IS highly desirable!! And by we, I mean you work, I watch!!
All those in favor of Wes pulling the motor and bringing it back to the shop for a nice rebuild series, give a thunbs up. If I lived closer Wes, I'd come down to help yank it with ya.
My experience with evaporust is that the metal needs to be pretty much grease and oil free. I used it on a pair of pliers that were so rusted a hammer wouldn't budge them. Overnight in evaporust and they worked freely by hand.
It was a long shot but a relatively cheap intervention. I've had good results with Evaporust on light surface rust but I couldn't predict how well it would deal with a seized cylinder. Anyway, it was a worthy experiment and there was some good insight about fluid compatibility and density/buoyancy. The active ingredient is a chelating agent which pretty much guarantees it's water-based (being non-toxic, non-acid, and non-caustic is also a clue). Sucks that it didn't work out in this case but we all learned something and now you have half a jug of Evaporust to play around with.
Ah well, now you know. Thanks for taking us along for this and your other adventures in 2020! Happy Holidays to you, Mrs. Wes, Lucas and Max! Nice new logo, by the way.
@@wes11bravo In the early 90's I built a V8 conversion street legal Toyota Hilux mini monster pick up truck, with cherry bomb mufflers. It would set alarms off driving round parking lots, it got embarrassing in the end. The truck was fairly quiet if the gas pedal wasn't stamped on hard, it must of just been the right sound frequency to do it.
@@super6954 - 100% brother! I have the complete stock exhaust for it that I will be installing as soon as I can motivate myself. It was somewhat amusing to set off car alarms but the novelty is wearing off!
A very close friend, who I have known since around 1958, has a 1929 Chevy sedan with a GMC blown 302 GMC six cylinder engine. It runs VERY well. And those engines are highly desireable.
Haven´t tried it myelf, but a mix of acetone and ATF is often mentioned. Only engine I´ve gotten un-stuck was an old Citroën DS. I had the head of and bashed the pistons with sledgehammer and wood and tried every oily stuff I had lying around. The thing that did the trick that time was a LOT of WD-40 and using the starter on it. Did it survive? Guess what, it´s twenty years since I did that. Runs like a dream. It also had every substance known to humanity in the crankcase and possibly some alien stuff. Even antifreeze which people claim that it kills the bearings. It might have sounded a little strange for a while but it got good after a while. The Citroën has a very overbuilt engine but that old iron is no moped either.
One thing I notice using Evaporust on motorcycle fasteners etc is that they come out with a weird texture like they have been sandblasted. They also start to flash rust again in hours. Its a great product if you're going to paint or treat the item afterwards.
Yes after he removed the most of that diesel he should have used a propane torch and stuck it in the spark plug opening and cooked all the residue from the cyls and that heat wouldnt have hurt anything. Then put the evapo rust into a dry cyl to give it the best chance to work.
Yeah - a lot of the skilled restorers are pretty careful to put items through the parts washer (or just a bowl of solvent) before using Evaporust or MC-51
I can also confirm. I just submerged a camshaft in evaporust to clean some light rust off it. I had cleaned most of the remaining oil and grease off it with carburetor cleaner. I left one spot between lobes with some oil on it. After three weeks, the oil turned white, and the metal under it was unchanged. Everything else I had de-greased was de-rusted quite nicely.
I can’t see Wes giving up this easy. Maybe a sequel will follow. Merry Christmas Wes to you and Mrs. W and the kido plus the pup. Thanks for another year of videos.
You can't give up Wes, you never give up, I honestly think it's time to lift that engine out, get it back to your workshop and strip it down. That whole project is worth every second of video footage. You know you want to! Go for it mate whoop whoop whoop 👍👍👍
That engine is actually rare and is actually saught after by old school truck an car guys believe it or not the gmc 302 set a land speed record of 200mph its featured on an episode of road kill
"work"? Surely work is what you do prior to getting home and finding 3 missed calls and 7 messages because you were too busy to look at your phone all day?
@@chasevans7171how do you have 3 missed, but 7 messages. I spend at least the last few hours of my day doing emails log sheets and work tickets so there is alot of boring ass computer work to be done so it helps to have something going in the background
What I did on a sa200 lincoln that was seized was I plugged the exhaust and intake off and took 4 compression testers put them in the spark plug holes and put compressed air to all 4 cylinders at once ( make sure to remove the shrader valve ) for a few hours I used atf and acetone 50/50 ratio the air pushes the mixture around and through the piston rings make sure to take out the drain plug and put a catch pan under it so you can keep reusing it I did this for a few days working the crank back and forth until I get freed up
But Wes but Wes.... you didn’t try my great grandads secret sauce for breaking them loose!! Lol you need a team of horses 3 bottles of Tabasco sauce a box of thumb tacks and some of that sticky stuff that comes on baseball cards... it will be running in no time! Granddad always swore by it
Actually, thumb tacks (or sheet metal screws, which is what I use), are very useful for cleaning rust. Put some in a fuel tank with some detergent and shake it like a maraca.
As for freeing stuck motors I will throw my hat in the ring. When dad retired from dairy farming he worked at a farm dealership. At that time they were scraping combines dad got a nice chevy V8 out of an MF 750. He piped the coolant pump into a stuck 1928 10 20. He let the V8 run at high idle for a wile a cople of times and it worked the 10 20 freed up nicely
Perhaps another quick visit to just pop the head off and satisfy the curiosity? It was a fun science experiment, thanks for sharing. A big ole stuck engine thumbs up. You never disappoint on the videos!
I'm only 0:20 seconds in and I'm imagining Wes takes the engine out and sticks it in a vat of evapo-rust like some people do with turkeys and oil around this time of the year. Merry Christmas / Seasons Greetings :)
It's funny you mentioned the Yugo. I was recently mentioning to Scott from Cold War Motors that my grandmother had a Yugo in the 80's and how I wouldn't mind getting a chance to drive one. We zipped around everywhere in that little car. Honestly the Evapo-Rust was a good idea. My brother has used it quite a bit on various projects and it does a great job. I wonder if there is something else binding that engine up like the valvetrain. It would be cool to pull the head off and see what you're actually up against. But since Winter is upon us and you're up north in the tundra I foresee that as a project that can wait a few months. Thanks for the videos, Wes! My brother and I both enjoyed the Ford dump truck series.
Thumbs up for Cold War Motors ( my favorite channel along with WWW and SMA). Wes should watch the straight 8 challenge for some tips on freeing up a stuck engine!
If my memory of the earlier video is correct. He scoped the bores and it looked like an old cave full of barnacles and other interesting stuff ,it was rusted that bad. Like he said a few cylinders still had liquid in after 3 weeks, kinda thinking his famous quote of "there's your problem lady" might apply to this motor. she's stuffed beyond anything simple freeing it sadly.
Caught that comment you made. We'll let it sit for 24 hours......three weeks later. Lol Good one Wes.. Thanks and if you don't upload beforehand I hope you and the family have a merry Christmas
Evaporust has worked great unfreezing rusted solid vise grips, adjustable wrenches perfectly. As long as it's around 60° or better. Won't work at all colder than that. You said it was getting cold. Amazed what that stuff can do usually.
I have not read all the comments so this might be redundant. I use white vinegar to clean rust off of old tools I got from my dad when he passed. I am not talking about surface rust, some of his tool went under brackish water during hurricanes. I also found that is is great for sharpening files and saw blades. I have a plastic storage box that I fill with tools and then fill with the vinegar and leave it a month or so. It actually ends up with a really nasty looking foam at the top. Dump out the vinegar, wash the stuff in water, use baking soda and water to neutralize the acidic vinegar, wipe with old oil to protect from further rust. The chrome peals off if the tools were bad enough, but they are usable. I can't see any reason that it wouldn't eat the rust out of those cylinder walls. It will most likely damage the aluminum pistons, but I think they might be in bad shape anyway. Just an idea, if it doesn't work just go back to the crocodile tears, or maybe tears from a mermaid. I think you know already the best thing to do is at the very least pull the head and go from there.
I use Metal Restore. Found at home depot. Works pretty good. The only thing is environment needs to be warm not cold outside for evap-o-rust or metal restore to work
Put a bent piece of rebar in the spark plug hole and tap the top of the piston while some one puts a breaker bar on the crank pulley moving it back and forward slowly. It’s worked for me over 50 times.
What`s help a lot is adding a heater hose heater. And cook the block for a few hours. You might have to heat cycle it a few times. But the expansion and contraction of the block helps free a stuck engine.
There is a flat pad aft of the distributor that has a serial number on it. The displacement of the engine is there. The 302 is a more desirable power plant that GMC used. They built the 229, 248,270, and the 302. All were the same on the outside so interchange is fairly simple. The 302 was also used in early military trucks and has to be modified to fit say a half ton. But again its not too hard. If what you have is a 270 or a 302 its worth saving. Although pistons can be very pricey for both.
The engine displacement is marked very plainly on the engine right next to the bottom of the distributor. There are two tabs/casting on engine where the distributor bolts down. One has the engine serial no. The other is the displacement. If some factory outlet rebuilt it then it is also on that same casting that is about a inch an a half long by quarter inch or just a little more deep towards the engine with marks like .10 and then a letter to go with.... assuming it means cylinder bore or it could be rod displacement. Who knows, I only know that millions of them were built for the army, navy, marines, and you find all these wrecking yards full of those old beaters. I like many would love to hear it run and the only redeeming thing on this one is being fairly close to the shop from my hearing prospective. But whether its a 270, 302, 450, 502... its still just cast iron that has little meaning today. I am not sure as to what more it could be. I really doubt they put a once of gold in each block so its just junk where it sets as no one is going down there to install a engine in a truck that needs everything else to make it move again. If it were solid gold, it still wouldn't pay the national debt either. Good call Wes
I have taken an old spark plug and made an adapter with a grease fitting, screwed the adapter in the head and started greasing with the grease gun. Do that and you might get the locked up pistons to move. You can add a little solvent also.
I would use highly concentrated vinegar and give it 24h. I mean you would need to hone the cylinder walls anyway, so a little damage isn't the end of the world. Vinegar will mix with any residual water and is a lot stronger than evapo-rust.
At this point, it would be interesting to pull the engine and go through it to see if you can get each piston moving again. That, and to see if there is anything else that would stop it from running again.
@@NoWr2Run It would take far to much of Wes' time to do that. Now if 'someone' were to start a GoFundMe page, then we might get some action. Thought not. 😉
Problem I’ve seen with really stuck motors is the aluminum corrodes on the pistons and causes them to expand and wedge in tight. I had one so tight I used a homemade press to get it out, it shot across the floor when it finally came out.
My cousin's 50cc yamaha moped (1980) had a stuck motor, had to use a 4 pound sledge hammer, heat, pblaster, and 2 hours of beating on the piston to make it move.
It was a good attempt. I’ll bet the main problem is the oil/ATF coating on everything “protecting” it from the Evaporust. I believe they say you’re supposed to remove all traces of oil from parts before soaking in Evaporust, and obviously there’s no easy way to do that with a fully assembled engine. Good try though.
I asked a Evaporust representative about the procedure. He said you must clean as much carbon and oil based crud as you can as the product only works against exposed rust. I'd pour solvent in and blow it out with compressed air. The rings are probably caked with hardened sludge so that the chemical can't work.
i wouldnt write the motor off i think it would be a good idea to remove the head and try vinegar down the bore to eat out the rust dont leave it in to long maybe a day suck it out or use rags to clean it out and tap the pistons with a block of wood the tapping will help to break the rust seal also heat the atf fluid so its hot when it goes in the head works way better i find you have to try a combination of things to free them up and afterwards try some leverage on the crank pulley use a decent bar
"3cyl yugo engine from the bottom of a lake"...had me gasp for breath from laughing...Wes, love your comments, also the boiled crocodile tears... :-D Thx a lot!
I'm pretty confident Evapo-Rust is citric acid with maybe some surfactants. I've used both with identical results. So now I buy 10lbs of citric acid and make batches as needed. Timely reactions require temps 80 degrees f and above. Lowest temps I've tried was around 50f and progress was glacier slow.
No secret to freeing up rusty cylinders. Just pour some Vinegar in the cylinders wait a few days then work it loose with a breaker bar. Do not force it. It is a common problem any Marina faces with improperly stored engines. The Vinegar turns the rust into a black greasey substance. Don't get the Vinegar in your eyes. It is 5 % Acidity. Loosens up the rings as well. A Navy Seabee taught me this decades ago.
evaporust uses a chemical reaction, chemical reactions increase greatly in their potency and speed at higher temps. effectiveness would drop off dramatically anywhere even approaching freezing... all im saying is if it were to work, it would likely be at much higher temps (closer to room temperature)
Evaporust when heated greatly speeds up its reaction time. I have a heated ultra sonic cleaner that I have evaporust in and the longest I've had to wait is 4 hours for something that takes 24-36 at room temperature
Two things probably truck is left in the first or second gear Clutch is seize against pressure plate. You need to free clutch first. Place shift in neutral take long flat chisel and chisel between pressure plate and clutch disc. After that try with long pipe and wrench to move engine. If that is not working remove head it will move then. I suggest you to put small inspection camera into plug holes and check condition of rust around cylinder.
The rust around the pistons is water tight, any solvent or oil wont just magically seep in. Maybe some ridiculously thin stuff could do something, like asetone with some wd-40 in it idk. I personally have just used plain old wd-40 for any rusty stuff, if it wont seep in, nothing will
Evaporust is citric acid and water. so yes, it’ll freeze. so 1, you can make your own but stronger. And it’s absolutely necessary in heavy rust situations. also, doesn’t work well in the cold. Warmer is better. Sometimes when I’m impatient I’ll warm a few gallons up on the stove and a 24 hour soak turns into about 4
I used mac engine fogger NAPA Before empty-ing 1 can per cylinder expect 2 at almost top DC with a 2/4 wood and mallet each piston got 2 good wacks 3 days later rust de-solved took 20 minutes of turning motor back and forth to get full revolutions
My experience, pick oil or evapo and stick with it, using both has never worked. Once the oil gets into the crevices, the evapo cannot get in. If you use evapo first, the chemicals in it that did get into crevices dry out into a powder that fills the crevices keeping the oil from getting in. If one/both fail, its time for the blue tip wrench and a press.
They are all desirable engines. To someone that doesn't own one. If they are free. If they are delivered to the house. If they come with a mechanic to rebuild them. Otherwise it's two lips going FLAP FLAP FLAP.
I can see where this is going. Wes cant stay away from that truck. Hes gonna tow it to his shop eventually and fix it up. Its gonna happen. Guaranteed. Its a calling.
Hello Wes!! Good try with the evaporust anyway. Those 302 engines were used in the Army deuce and a half trucks for a while from the late forties through to about the mid 1950's, they were a rugged old design, but they did the job, but the trucks were limited to about 50 mph or so tops! I had a GMC 2 1/2 ton M211 dump truck of about 1955-56 vintage that old truck was well built 6X6!!
Ayy up Wes,Another good vlog,I hope you and your family have a good Christmas and a very good new year.All the way from Yorkshire England I hope you got Mrs Wes a nice present
try putting peroxide in the cylinders and see if it works because peroxide cuts rust pretty good and also brake fluid is pretty good for cutting rust as well
Do you have a water heater you could hook up to the cooling system? I've had good results heating engine's up to free them up. I'm not used to penetrating fluids and concoctions getting passed the rings either. What id like to try is getting some ice onto the piston so it shrinks a little and the block expands with the heat. I'm think of freezing some vinegar into ice cubes, crushing it so it can be put into the cylinders with a funnel. If you can try and some pressure behind it to help with penetration.
Sounds like a good winter project if you can rip that engine out and get it back into the shop...I'd love to see what the bottom end looks like. Easier said than done, but nothing is impossible if you have enough time (and enough tools to throw when you get angry 🤣). Merry Christmas to you and the family, Wes.
I've been successful with pb blaster and using a bottle jack to jack up on the outer edge of the ring gear. You may lift the truck up a little before it breaks free. So be careful if you try that (unless that's how you are already attempting to free it)
I've used Evaporust. I think it might have worked if there wasn't any diesel/ATF coating the piston/wall intersections. However, even if it had come un-stuck it would have needed to be torn down anyway because, the last time I used Evaporust on anything with aluminum connected it dissolved the aluminum.
If you dropped a typical decade-old Illinois rust bucket into a vat of Evapo rust i think after a day the only thing left would be tires, headlights, and the seats. everything else would have dissolved.
I've left stuff long term in evaporust and it formed it's own sludge after a while. Marvel mystery oil or ATF is the stuff I'd put in the cylinders and just let it set for months to creep.
Hey Wes..you prolly heard them all..and idk what else you have tried previously...but i had success on a motor that sat in a 65 olds 98 for 30 plus years..seized up tighter than a drum...i put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders for a week..got it free..and was driving it in my yard 2 days later..the 3rd day it was blowing oil filters apart..its parked again lol...i believe the ck valve in the filter adaptor is bad..something to look at come summer
How about this. Find an old wheel with no tyre (Tire in the USA of course) and make two holes opposite each other in the wheel well. Find a bar about 6 feet long to put through the holes. Jack up the driven wheels on the truck and mount the wheel and bar. Put the truck in gear and use the bar to try to turn the motor. Something will move or something will break!
Big Congrats over 100K!! People love the working on scrap equipment and destruction as the old truck will it start video and the radial drill drop are my only 2 videos to get over 100K views. Maybe someone will send you a check to rebuild that highly desirable 302 GMC and we will get to see the whole rescue and rebuild process. I am still waiting for someone to offer that for my 320Cid JXD Hercules as I hear they are highly desirable too. LOL
A 1955 GMC 302 inline 6 cylinder short block is listed on eBay for $4,000. The military version is listed for $3,000. There’s a third one (core only) sort of appears all rusty and junky like yours for a couple of hundred bucks. So there is the possibly (a very slim one in your case) of making a buck or two.
Marvel mystery oil worked for me on a 69 mustang coupe 302. Freed it right up and i put new plugs in it and she sparked right up! Amazing! Last time the car was registered for on road was 1998. It still has antique tags on it. Its my project. Shes a rust bucket so ill be spending this summer welding floor pans and fender aprons. Not gonna be a complete restoration. I just want her to be road worthy again. If somebody wants to do a full restoration, they'll have to do it after i croak. And power to them. She's gonna be a survivor until then.
have you ever tried to get a thread adapter to attach a hydraulic line to the spark plug / fuel injector holes(depending weather its diesel or gasoline engine ofc ) if a engine is stuck you have to open it anyways to reseat the valve stems and clean up cylinder head and hone out the cylinders as well as new piston rings but it way eases disasembly if the pistons ar at least broken loose it works well on tractor enguines and diesel engines, with gasoline engines you need to be a little carefull cause the connecting rods are usually weaker - so you dont bend or crack them-
Those “Jimmy 6” engines were used a lot in early drag racing and Bonneville salt flats racing. (Late 40’s early 50’s time frame) They made big power in its day, with added speed equipment. Some guys still run them on the salt.
This might be a silly question/idea. Is there any way to apply a pressure to the evaporust while it sits in there? Probably by threading something in and applying air pressure. If you saw a pressure drop over a few days you'd know the juice was getting down in the cylinder then.
i think the evapostuff would have a better chance in a completely oil-free cylinder. the wicking action is probably compromised by the residual oil layer. I saw the brake cleaner which is good, but maybe some lacquer thinner followed by compressed air a few times would help.
I know guys that have done it on tractors, and it worked ,to free it enough for getting it apart . But like anything if you got a motor that's so stuck like this one is, and all a nuclear blast would do to it is blow it clean out of the north 40 without shifting the pistons. Then yeah it's a complete waste of time. At least you tried it, thanks for the video. Take care.
I’m thinking we remove the engine, take it back to the shop, tear it down, fix it and sell it at a huge profit. After all, it IS highly desirable!! And by we, I mean you work, I watch!!
Wing, HIGHLY AGREE WITH YOUR THINKING, SIR. DO IT DO IT DO IT, HIGHLY DESIRABLE WES, HIGHLY.
I second that!
I third the motion.
I'll fourth.
I highly desire that notion
All those in favor of Wes pulling the motor and bringing it back to the shop for a nice rebuild series, give a thunbs up. If I lived closer Wes, I'd come down to help yank it with ya.
plus he mentioned that yugo motor! that man has a treasure TROVE!
hear hear! Uh, buy a plane ticket. They still fly, chump.
Best idea so far..
lkhloeytolddowhhhhjsjdhshsgqqea🐔❤❤❤❤😂🎉😢😮😅😅
That's a shame., worth a shot though. That's a highly desirable syringe by the way, 2014 model with the optional hose.
Thanks for the spoiler 🌮🤡.. 🤣
😂😂
@@Mreque89 Apologies!
Thats ok ! Should avoid comments before watching. 🤪
🤣🤣🤣
My experience with evaporust is that the metal needs to be pretty much grease and oil free. I used it on a pair of pliers that were so rusted a hammer wouldn't budge them. Overnight in evaporust and they worked freely by hand.
Pulling the engine for a winter project would be an interesting watch,, by far 1 of my favourite channels to watch, keep up the good work lad
Evapo-Rust is water based and can't dissolve large amounts of oil. You have oily rust dams in the cylinders.
It was a long shot but a relatively cheap intervention. I've had good results with Evaporust on light surface rust but I couldn't predict how well it would deal with a seized cylinder. Anyway, it was a worthy experiment and there was some good insight about fluid compatibility and density/buoyancy. The active ingredient is a chelating agent which pretty much guarantees it's water-based (being non-toxic, non-acid, and non-caustic is also a clue). Sucks that it didn't work out in this case but we all learned something and now you have half a jug of Evaporust to play around with.
Ah well, now you know. Thanks for taking us along for this and your other adventures in 2020! Happy Holidays to you, Mrs. Wes, Lucas and Max! Nice new logo, by the way.
A built 6 in a row with split exhaust. One of the most beautiful sounds "enginely" possible.
My '01 TJ is set up that way. Dual Flowmasters. It sounds amazing and routinely sets off Tesla car alarms.
I have built some hot Toyota six in a rows that sounded awesome and ran quite well,too.
@@wes11bravo In the early 90's I built a V8 conversion street legal Toyota Hilux mini monster pick up truck, with cherry bomb mufflers. It would set alarms off driving round parking lots, it got embarrassing in the end. The truck was fairly quiet if the gas pedal wasn't stamped on hard, it must of just been the right sound frequency to do it.
@@super6954 - 100% brother! I have the complete stock exhaust for it that I will be installing as soon as I can motivate myself. It was somewhat amusing to set off car alarms but the novelty is wearing off!
A Jaguar XK is a good example
A very close friend, who I have known since around 1958, has a 1929 Chevy sedan with a GMC blown 302 GMC six cylinder engine. It runs VERY well. And those engines are highly desireable.
Congrats on 100K Wes! You really have earned it. :)
Haven´t tried it myelf, but a mix of acetone and ATF is often mentioned. Only engine I´ve gotten un-stuck was an old Citroën DS. I had the head of and bashed the pistons with sledgehammer and wood and tried every oily stuff I had lying around. The thing that did the trick that time was a LOT of WD-40 and using the starter on it. Did it survive? Guess what, it´s twenty years since I did that. Runs like a dream. It also had every substance known to humanity in the crankcase and possibly some alien stuff. Even antifreeze which people claim that it kills the bearings. It might have sounded a little strange for a while but it got good after a while. The Citroën has a very overbuilt engine but that old iron is no moped either.
Wes the #1 thing that keeps everyone coming back.... You NEVER give up easily. Your My go to when my son wants to give up.
Mustie1 is also a very good example of tenacity and self-teaching, just in case you haven't seen his channel ;)
Boiled Croc Tears ain't no joke... Costs an arm and a leg to collect them, but once boiled they're pure magic.
One thing I notice using Evaporust on motorcycle fasteners etc is that they come out with a weird texture like they have been sandblasted. They also start to flash rust again in hours. Its a great product if you're going to paint or treat the item afterwards.
Evaporust doesn't really like to be mixed with grease/oils of any kind. In my experience with it it mixes fairly well with light oils.
Yes after he removed the most of that diesel he should have used a propane torch and stuck it in the spark plug opening and cooked all the residue from the cyls and that heat wouldnt have hurt anything. Then put the evapo rust into a dry cyl to give it the best chance to work.
@@thecollectoronthecorner7061 Just beating a dead horse.
Yeah - a lot of the skilled restorers are pretty careful to put items through the parts washer (or just a bowl of solvent) before using Evaporust or MC-51
I can also confirm. I just submerged a camshaft in evaporust to clean some light rust off it. I had cleaned most of the remaining oil and grease off it with carburetor cleaner. I left one spot between lobes with some oil on it. After three weeks, the oil turned white, and the metal under it was unchanged. Everything else I had de-greased was de-rusted quite nicely.
I can’t see Wes giving up this easy. Maybe a sequel will follow. Merry Christmas Wes to you and Mrs. W and the kido plus the pup. Thanks for another year of videos.
You can't give up Wes, you never give up, I honestly think it's time to lift that engine out, get it back to your workshop and strip it down. That whole project is worth every second of video footage.
You know you want to!
Go for it mate whoop whoop whoop 👍👍👍
That engine is actually rare and is actually saught after by old school truck an car guys believe it or not the gmc 302 set a land speed record of 200mph its featured on an episode of road kill
Have to work a 12hour shift at the hospital getting tired near the end and a Wes video pops up to get me through the end stretch 😂
"work"? Surely work is what you do prior to getting home and finding 3 missed calls and 7 messages because you were too busy to look at your phone all day?
@@chasevans7171how do you have 3 missed, but 7 messages. I spend at least the last few hours of my day doing emails log sheets and work tickets so there is alot of boring ass computer work to be done so it helps to
have something going in the background
What I did on a sa200 lincoln that was seized was I plugged the exhaust and intake off and took 4 compression testers put them in the spark plug holes and put compressed air to all 4 cylinders at once ( make sure to remove the shrader valve ) for a few hours I used atf and acetone 50/50 ratio the air pushes the mixture around and through the piston rings make sure to take out the drain plug and put a catch pan under it so you can keep reusing it I did this for a few days working the crank back and forth until I get freed up
But Wes but Wes.... you didn’t try my great grandads secret sauce for breaking them loose!! Lol you need a team of horses 3 bottles of Tabasco sauce a box of thumb tacks and some of that sticky stuff that comes on baseball cards... it will be running in no time! Granddad always swore by it
I think that only works when the summer solstice falls on a full moon.
Maybe penetrating oil might work! As VGG would say there's about 87.63% this will fail
Don't forget the Eye of Newt.
Actually, thumb tacks (or sheet metal screws, which is what I use), are very useful for cleaning rust. Put some in a fuel tank with some detergent and shake it like a maraca.
As for freeing stuck motors I will throw my hat in the ring. When dad retired from dairy farming he worked at a farm dealership. At that time they were scraping combines dad got a nice chevy V8 out of an MF 750. He piped the coolant pump into a stuck 1928 10 20. He let the V8 run at high idle for a wile a cople of times and it worked the 10 20 freed up nicely
Perhaps another quick visit to just pop the head off and satisfy the curiosity? It was a fun science experiment, thanks for sharing. A big ole stuck engine thumbs up. You never disappoint on the videos!
I'm only 0:20 seconds in and I'm imagining Wes takes the engine out and sticks it in a vat of evapo-rust like some people do with turkeys and oil around this time of the year. Merry Christmas / Seasons Greetings :)
Its not hopeless until you haul it home and pull the head, pull the crank. For Wes everything can be saved.
It's funny you mentioned the Yugo. I was recently mentioning to Scott from Cold War Motors that my grandmother had a Yugo in the 80's and how I wouldn't mind getting a chance to drive one. We zipped around everywhere in that little car.
Honestly the Evapo-Rust was a good idea. My brother has used it quite a bit on various projects and it does a great job. I wonder if there is something else binding that engine up like the valvetrain. It would be cool to pull the head off and see what you're actually up against. But since Winter is upon us and you're up north in the tundra I foresee that as a project that can wait a few months. Thanks for the videos, Wes! My brother and I both enjoyed the Ford dump truck series.
Thumbs up for Cold War Motors ( my favorite channel along with WWW and SMA). Wes should watch the straight 8 challenge for some tips on freeing up a stuck engine!
@@mikegoodman4133 The Straight 8 Challenge was brutal. I can't believe those things ran again.
If my memory of the earlier video is correct. He scoped the bores and it looked like an old cave full of barnacles and other interesting stuff ,it was rusted that bad. Like he said a few cylinders still had liquid in after 3 weeks, kinda thinking his famous quote of "there's your problem lady" might apply to this motor. she's stuffed beyond anything simple freeing it sadly.
Congrats on hitting the 100K mark. No one deserves it more.
Thank you very much!
1) try a grease gun with spark plug adapter fittings. you should be able to force the pistons to move.
2) Evap o Rust is water soluble.
Caught that comment you made. We'll let it sit for 24 hours......three weeks later. Lol
Good one Wes..
Thanks and if you don't upload beforehand I hope you and the family have a merry Christmas
Evaporust has worked great unfreezing rusted solid vise grips, adjustable wrenches perfectly. As long as it's around 60° or better. Won't work at all colder than that. You said it was getting cold. Amazed what that stuff can do usually.
I have not read all the comments so this might be redundant. I use white vinegar to clean rust off of old tools I got from my dad when he passed. I am not talking about surface rust, some of his tool went under brackish water during hurricanes. I also found that is is great for sharpening files and saw blades. I have a plastic storage box that I fill with tools and then fill with the vinegar and leave it a month or so. It actually ends up with a really nasty looking foam at the top. Dump out the vinegar, wash the stuff in water, use baking soda and water to neutralize the acidic vinegar, wipe with old oil to protect from further rust. The chrome peals off if the tools were bad enough, but they are usable. I can't see any reason that it wouldn't eat the rust out of those cylinder walls. It will most likely damage the aluminum pistons, but I think they might be in bad shape anyway. Just an idea, if it doesn't work just go back to the crocodile tears, or maybe tears from a mermaid. I think you know already the best thing to do is at the very least pull the head and go from there.
I use Metal Restore. Found at home depot. Works pretty good. The only thing is environment needs to be warm not cold outside for evap-o-rust or metal restore to work
Put a bent piece of rebar in the spark plug hole and tap the top of the piston while some one puts a breaker bar on the crank pulley moving it back and forward slowly. It’s worked for me over 50 times.
"Maybe, but not this one" ,,,, But you tried and gave us ( me) some info on ways to try and some good techniques to boot. Bravo!
What`s help a lot is adding a heater hose heater. And cook the block for a few hours. You might have to heat cycle it a few times. But the expansion and contraction of the block helps free a stuck engine.
Congratulations on 100K subscribers!!
There is a flat pad aft of the distributor that has a serial number on it. The displacement of the engine is there. The 302 is a more desirable power plant that GMC used. They built the 229, 248,270, and the 302. All were the same on the outside so interchange is fairly simple. The 302 was also used in early military trucks and has to be modified to fit say a half ton. But again its not too hard. If what you have is a 270 or a 302 its worth saving. Although pistons can be very pricey for both.
The engine displacement is marked very plainly on the engine right next to the bottom of the distributor. There are two tabs/casting on engine where the distributor bolts down. One has the engine serial no. The other is the displacement. If some factory outlet rebuilt it then it is also on that same casting that is about a inch an a half long by quarter inch or just a little more deep towards the engine with marks like .10 and then a letter to go with.... assuming it means cylinder bore or it could be rod displacement. Who knows, I only know that millions of them were built for the army, navy, marines, and you find all these wrecking yards full of those old beaters. I like many would love to hear it run and the only redeeming thing on this one is being fairly close to the shop from my hearing prospective. But whether its a 270, 302, 450, 502... its still just cast iron that has little meaning today. I am not sure as to what more it could be. I really doubt they put a once of gold in each block so its just junk where it sets as no one is going down there to install a engine in a truck that needs everything else to make it move again. If it were solid gold, it still wouldn't pay the national debt either. Good call Wes
I have taken an old spark plug and made an adapter with a grease fitting, screwed the adapter in the head and started greasing with the grease gun. Do that and you might get the locked up pistons to move. You can add a little solvent also.
I have a whole video on that with a different engine. Didn't work. Just blew the head gasket.
I would use highly concentrated vinegar and give it 24h. I mean you would need to hone the cylinder walls anyway, so a little damage isn't the end of the world.
Vinegar will mix with any residual water and is a lot stronger than evapo-rust.
Step one pull engine
Step two install Cummins
Step three success
But where is the fun in that? :-)
@@keithmatthews1673 I swear, the 5.9 is the diesel equivalent to the LS motors. In a long enough timeline...
But then it wouldn't be interesting. The point is it would have that janky old engine in it
60% of the time, it works 100% of the time
LOL. I think that's in the fine print on the back.
I restored a bunch of old Starrett micrometers that were rusted using Evaporust. Great product to remove rust for sure.
At this point, it would be interesting to pull the engine and go through it to see if you can get each piston moving again. That, and to see if there is anything else that would stop it from running again.
I AGREE, PULL IT, PULL IT, PULL IT, HIGHLY DESIRABLE SIR WES.
@@NoWr2Run It would take far to much of Wes' time to do that.
Now if 'someone' were to start a GoFundMe page, then we might get some action.
Thought not. 😉
You have my permission!
@@imouse3246 WTF ?
Congratulations on reaching 100k ! Nice achievement !
Problem I’ve seen with really stuck motors is the aluminum corrodes on the pistons and causes them to expand and wedge in tight. I had one so tight I used a homemade press to get it out, it shot across the floor when it finally came out.
The problem here? This is not an aluminum engine
@@donniebrown2896 even the pistons?
@@donniebrown2896 Pistons are.
My cousin's 50cc yamaha moped (1980) had a stuck motor, had to use a 4 pound sledge hammer, heat, pblaster, and 2 hours of beating on the piston to make it move.
Russia hadn't even invented aluminum yet when this truck came out. Gosh, guys.
It was a good attempt. I’ll bet the main problem is the oil/ATF coating on everything “protecting” it from the Evaporust. I believe they say you’re supposed to remove all traces of oil from parts before soaking in Evaporust, and obviously there’s no easy way to do that with a fully assembled engine. Good try though.
I asked a Evaporust representative about the procedure. He said you must clean as much carbon and oil based crud as you can as the product only works against exposed rust. I'd pour solvent in and blow it out with compressed air. The rings are probably caked with hardened sludge so that the chemical can't work.
i wouldnt write the motor off i think it would be a good idea to remove the head and try vinegar down the bore to eat out the rust dont leave it in to long maybe a day suck it out or use rags to clean it out and tap the pistons with a block of wood the tapping will help to break the rust seal also heat the atf fluid so its hot when it goes in the head works way better i find you have to try a combination of things to free them up and afterwards try some leverage on the crank pulley use a decent bar
"3cyl yugo engine from the bottom of a lake"...had me gasp for breath from laughing...Wes, love your comments, also the boiled crocodile tears...
:-D
Thx a lot!
yugos are all 4 cylinder😊
@@SloVu That is exactly what makes the 3 cylinder ones so valuable.
@@SloVu I know, but imagine you pull up a 3cyl one from the bottom of a lake, just guess how sought it will be...
:-D
This one had me shook. LOL!!!
The ones tied to an anchor line that is.
I'm pretty confident Evapo-Rust is citric acid with maybe some surfactants. I've used both with identical results. So now I buy 10lbs of citric acid and make batches as needed. Timely reactions require temps 80 degrees f and above. Lowest temps I've tried was around 50f and progress was glacier slow.
Negative... EvapoRust is definitely NOT citric acid.
- Max Giganteum
I believe you've struck gold on this new catch phrase!
No secret to freeing up rusty cylinders. Just pour some Vinegar in the cylinders wait a few days then work it loose with a breaker bar. Do not force it. It is a common problem any Marina faces with improperly stored engines. The Vinegar turns the rust into a black greasey substance.
Don't get the Vinegar in your eyes. It is 5 % Acidity. Loosens up the rings as well. A Navy Seabee taught me this decades ago.
We have faith in you, you will make it run, we watching!
evaporust uses a chemical reaction, chemical reactions increase greatly in their potency and speed at higher temps. effectiveness would drop off dramatically anywhere even approaching freezing...
all im saying is if it were to work, it would likely be at much higher temps (closer to room temperature)
Evaporust when heated greatly speeds up its reaction time. I have a heated ultra sonic cleaner that I have evaporust in and the longest I've had to wait is 4 hours for something that takes 24-36 at room temperature
So build a fire underneath, then EvapoRust.
The evap O rust needs to work in an oil free environment and is water based so it'll freeze
Two things probably truck is left in the first or second gear Clutch is seize against pressure plate. You need to free clutch first. Place shift in neutral take long flat chisel and chisel between pressure plate and clutch disc. After that try with long pipe and wrench to move engine. If that is not working remove head it will move then. I suggest you to put small inspection camera into plug holes and check condition of rust around cylinder.
The rust around the pistons is water tight, any solvent or oil wont just magically seep in.
Maybe some ridiculously thin stuff could do something, like asetone with some wd-40 in it idk.
I personally have just used plain old wd-40 for any rusty stuff, if it wont seep in, nothing will
Your conclusion was very professional IMHO.
Evaporust is citric acid and water. so yes, it’ll freeze. so 1, you can make your own but stronger. And it’s absolutely necessary in heavy rust situations. also, doesn’t work well in the cold. Warmer is better. Sometimes when I’m impatient I’ll warm a few gallons up on the stove and a 24 hour soak turns into about 4
Glad you are getting this rig running!
I used mac engine fogger NAPA Before empty-ing 1 can per cylinder expect 2 at almost top DC with a 2/4 wood and mallet each piston got 2 good wacks 3 days later rust de-solved took 20 minutes of turning motor back and forth to get full revolutions
My experience, pick oil or evapo and stick with it, using both has never worked. Once the oil gets into the crevices, the evapo cannot get in. If you use evapo first, the chemicals in it that did get into crevices dry out into a powder that fills the crevices keeping the oil from getting in. If one/both fail, its time for the blue tip wrench and a press.
They are all desirable engines. To someone that doesn't own one. If they are free. If they are delivered to the house. If they come with a mechanic to rebuild them. Otherwise it's two lips going FLAP FLAP FLAP.
There was once speed parts for these, probably could find some of it at larger swap meets
I can see where this is going. Wes cant stay away from that truck. Hes gonna tow it to his shop eventually and fix it up. Its gonna happen. Guaranteed. Its a calling.
You deserve the smartest RUclips creator award for bringing the syringe... literally everyone else uses a funnel or just pours it all over everything
Good try I also was curious if it would help. Try hooking up power and reading the codes to help find the exact cause for sticky pistons!
U FUNNY PERSON.
Hello Wes!! Good try with the evaporust anyway. Those 302 engines were used in the Army deuce and a half trucks for a while from the late forties through to about the mid 1950's, they were a rugged old design, but they did the job, but the trucks were limited to about 50 mph or so tops! I had a GMC 2 1/2 ton M211 dump truck of about 1955-56 vintage that old truck was well built 6X6!!
Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and your family from North Lincolnshire U.K., keep up the good work.
Ayy up Wes,Another good vlog,I hope you and your family have a good Christmas and a very good new year.All the way from Yorkshire England
I hope you got Mrs Wes a nice present
try putting peroxide in the cylinders and see if it works because peroxide cuts rust pretty good and also brake fluid is pretty good for cutting rust as well
Do you have a water heater you could hook up to the cooling system?
I've had good results heating engine's up to free them up. I'm not used to penetrating fluids and concoctions getting passed the rings either.
What id like to try is getting some ice onto the piston so it shrinks a little and the block expands with the heat.
I'm think of freezing some vinegar into ice cubes, crushing it so it can be put into the cylinders with a funnel.
If you can try and some pressure behind it to help with penetration.
100% saw the title and thought it was a Project Farm video. :)
Sounds like a good winter project if you can rip that engine out and get it back into the shop...I'd love to see what the bottom end looks like. Easier said than done, but nothing is impossible if you have enough time (and enough tools to throw when you get angry 🤣).
Merry Christmas to you and the family, Wes.
Stuck for good I'm sure. Kerosene mixed with trans fluid is the old timer break free mixture. Good video, nice truck.
This engine might be useful as an anchor for a boat. If you have a really big boat, you can use the whole truck.
I've been successful with pb blaster and using a bottle jack to jack up on the outer edge of the ring gear. You may lift the truck up a little before it breaks free. So be careful if you try that (unless that's how you are already attempting to free it)
Tighter than a Dutch wallet, never heard before but half true. I’m half Dutch.
I think it should be tighter than a ducks bum (use a different word if you please) because a ducks bum is water tight
Ah ah good one .
Tighter than a Dutch wallet, 😂😂 I've always herd it said "Tighter than Dick's hat band" pre-mohel !
That was my dad's version
As a Dutchman, I'm highly offended by that. Dutch Lifes Matter!
I've used Evaporust. I think it might have worked if there wasn't any diesel/ATF coating the piston/wall intersections. However, even if it had come un-stuck it would have needed to be torn down anyway because, the last time I used Evaporust on anything with aluminum connected it dissolved the aluminum.
If you dropped a typical decade-old Illinois rust bucket into a vat of Evapo rust i think after a day the only thing left would be tires, headlights, and the seats. everything else would have dissolved.
Or as Peter told Greg, don't scrub so hard, it's the only thing holding the car together!
Time to take that engine out, and disassemble it to rebuild. But make sure you video that for us to see. Thumbs Up!
I've left stuff long term in evaporust and it formed it's own sludge after a while. Marvel mystery oil or ATF is the stuff I'd put in the cylinders and just let it set for months to creep.
When you use crocodile tears always use them raw ,never boiled !
🤣🤣
Right! Boiled all of the goodie out of them. Lol
🤣🤣🤣
Hey Wes..you prolly heard them all..and idk what else you have tried previously...but i had success on a motor that sat in a 65 olds 98 for 30 plus years..seized up tighter than a drum...i put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders for a week..got it free..and was driving it in my yard 2 days later..the 3rd day it was blowing oil filters apart..its parked again lol...i believe the ck valve in the filter adaptor is bad..something to look at come summer
How about this. Find an old wheel with no tyre (Tire in the USA of course) and make two holes opposite each other in the wheel well. Find a bar about 6 feet long to put through the holes. Jack up the driven wheels on the truck and mount the wheel and bar. Put the truck in gear and use the bar to try to turn the motor. Something will move or something will break!
Big Congrats over 100K!! People love the working on scrap equipment and destruction as the old truck will it start video and the radial drill drop are my only 2 videos to get over 100K views. Maybe someone will send you a check to rebuild that highly desirable 302 GMC and we will get to see the whole rescue and rebuild process. I am still waiting for someone to offer that for my 320Cid JXD Hercules as I hear they are highly desirable too. LOL
Right! Highly desirable! Maybe you should drop the radial drill press on an old truck? Might get a couple views on that...
Watch Wes Work Maybe but I don’t want to have to fix the drill again.
Acetone/ATF 1:1 with a pinch of Marvel has given me the best results. Thinning things down seems to really help!
A 1955 GMC 302 inline 6 cylinder short block is listed on eBay for $4,000. The military version is listed for $3,000. There’s a third one (core only) sort of appears all rusty and junky like yours for a couple of hundred bucks. So there is the possibly (a very slim one in your case) of making a buck or two.
At least you give it a go you win some you loose some keep up the good work mate 👍🏻👍🏻
Marvel mystery oil worked for me on a 69 mustang coupe 302. Freed it right up and i put new plugs in it and she sparked right up! Amazing! Last time the car was registered for on road was 1998. It still has antique tags on it. Its my project. Shes a rust bucket so ill be spending this summer welding floor pans and fender aprons. Not gonna be a complete restoration. I just want her to be road worthy again. If somebody wants to do a full restoration, they'll have to do it after i croak. And power to them. She's gonna be a survivor until then.
have you ever tried to get a thread adapter to attach a hydraulic line to the spark plug / fuel injector holes(depending weather its diesel or gasoline engine ofc ) if a engine is stuck you have to open it anyways to reseat the valve stems and clean up cylinder head and hone out the cylinders as well as new piston rings but it way eases disasembly if the pistons ar at least broken loose
it works well on tractor enguines and diesel engines, with gasoline engines you need to be a little carefull cause the connecting rods are usually weaker - so you dont bend or crack them-
💯 K subscribers, congratulations Wes, and Mrs Wes.
Guessing Evaporust contains citric acid, and lanolin, as the main ingredients.
Thanks for sharing.
Those “Jimmy 6” engines were used a lot in early drag racing and Bonneville salt flats racing. (Late 40’s early 50’s time frame) They made big power in its day, with added speed equipment. Some guys still run them on the salt.
I use Evapo Rust on rusty chainsaw bars and chains, etc. It works great on such parts.
I've never used it on a stuck motor.
This might be a silly question/idea. Is there any way to apply a pressure to the evaporust while it sits in there? Probably by threading something in and applying air pressure. If you saw a pressure drop over a few days you'd know the juice was getting down in the cylinder then.
Valves have to be closed and in good shape
i think the evapostuff would have a better chance in a completely oil-free cylinder. the wicking action is probably compromised by the residual oil layer.
I saw the brake cleaner which is good, but maybe some lacquer thinner followed by compressed air a few times would help.
I miss the Location X video. "Hoarding on an industrial scale". Sounds like my garage.
Love the truck though, with the handpainted door signage and unusual backhoe setup.
I know guys that have done it on tractors, and it worked ,to free it enough for getting it apart . But like anything if you got a motor that's so stuck like this one is, and all a nuclear blast would do to it is blow it clean out of the north 40 without shifting the pistons. Then yeah it's a complete waste of time. At least you tried it, thanks for the video. Take care.
Boiled crocodile tears. 😂
Made my day. As always, thanks for the great vids. 👍