WINGTIP BROGUES (LOAKE BIRKDALE) | 3-YEAR REVIEW UPDATE
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- In this video your enigmatic host reviews the Loake Birkdale shoes that he purchased 3-years ago.
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Amazon link to Loake Birkdale Brogue: amzn.to/2MgBJHI
The brogue is one of the most versatile and wearable shoes that any chap can have in his shoe collection - worn casually when needed, or with a suit in the most formal of occasions, the brogue is a true gentleman's classic.
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3 years ago, because of your video on Loake , I bought my first pair of 1880. 3 years later , I know own 9 pairs of Loake. They fit me like a glove. I have wide feet and they are wonderful. Thanks. One of your biggest supporters.
Great to hear!
Just bought a pair today, coming to the end of university, placements and all that so I needed something smart. I'm pretty confident I made the right choice!
Thank you Ash. Due to watching your channel, while I was out thrift shopping today -- I spotted a pair of Allen Edmonds McAllister full brogue wingtips. They are in really good shape save the edges need some refinish work and I don't believe they have ever been conditioned or polished at all. I have my work to do on that front to make them the best thrifting deal I have ever run across at an absurd price of $7.00 US. I still can't believe it. I watched for the details that you provide in your channel and for that -- thank you very much.
Great find. I have a pair of McAlister's I purchased from AE during their sale. Love them.
$7 is a steal. Good bargain.
Like the artist formerly known as Prince, I’m the viewer formerly known as OpieTaylor. Thank you for the update on these shoes. They appear to have aged well. The leather looks well broken in, in a good way. I may be in England in 2025 and I will definitely make the pilgrimage to Northamptonshire to see all of these wonderful companies. If the Loake 1880 Edward is still one of their workhorses I’ll not be leaving without them. I like these Birkdale long wings, but I think I may need a G fit. We’ll see. Thanks again, Ash.
Splendid pair Ash!
Brilliant and I need to consider another pair of dress shoes and will consider your recommendation. Thanks!
Many Goodyear welted shoes do not have soles that are stitched to the upper. Most of the strength of the bond in a Goodyear Welted shoe is in the GLUE that is used to attach the sole to (in most cases) the midsole. That's why when you wear through the stitches on your leather or Dainite sole the sole does not fall off or start to separate.
Thicker soles like many commando soles or EVA wedge soles are only glued to the shoe as it is impossible to stitch through them. Some thicker soles do provide grooves that allow stitching but many do not. This does not affect the integrity of the shoe as modern glues are very good and there is a stitch from the upper into the midsole as well as a second stitch from the upper into the insole.
Most shoe manufacturers limit the number of re-soles to three simply because they replace the welt by machine stitching as it is easier for their manufacturing process. Each welt replacement (by machine) creates additional stitch soles in the upper which limits the number of re-soles.
This defeats the point of the GYW process which has a welt to allow many re-soles without affecting the upper. A good cobbler will apply the new stitches through the same holes in the welt allowing many re-soles before even needing to replace the welt a single time.
If the midsole is not replaced (on a wedge sole for example) it is purely a case of gluing the new sole on to the midsole.
Stitching soles onto shoes may have been required in the past for longevity but nowadays even really tough mountain climbing boots are cemented only and will take significantly more abuse than any pair of Northampton made boots are designed for. And these boots are still re-soleable.
I own and enjoy an extremely large number of GYW boots and shoes from England, Europe and the USA but my toughest boots with the thickest leather are my cemented Scarpa SL1 winter mountaineering boots (I've owned several generations) which are far more weather resistant than any GYW boot.
Greetings from Puerto Rico. I enjoyed the show very much.
Beautiful pair of shoes.
Ash. Thanks for another great video. I added two pair of A/E to my fleet, but unlike my old pair with leather soles, I purchased the new pairs with the danite sole. This was largely based on your comments about their performance in wet weather and I must say you are spot on! Thanks again.
Good evening sirs. Do like the cravat and the 1880 range. Excellent follow up video.
I really like your channel there is a lot of great information.
Glad you like them!
Very nice colour the barker Westfield are a fantastic shoe little more expensive
Great video Ash.I’ve just bought a pair of castlegate 1880 brogues just walking them in they look a great shoes.
Good choice!
My way to buy you a coffee Ash, Not skipping ads😅
Interesting video, I can testify to the quality of the Loake Birkdale's. Funnily enough I also bought a pair in 2020, in a mid-brown pebble grain finish. I also have other shoes from Tricker's, Cheaney, and a pair of Church's all in great condition from ebay. Comparing the Loake Birkdale's to a Tricker's Bourton, I must say that the Tricker's are better quality, however the Loake Birkdale's are very close and considering the price difference I would thoroughly recommend them. They would make it into the top 3 in my own collection, even amongst other shoes from supposedly even more accomplished shoe makers. Great video!
I recently got a pair of loake brogue tan Buford boot & dark brown Edward oxford & been liking them so far. been wearing the burford more since it's snowing out which mean boot season. My first pair of Brogues was a suede brogue derby from brooks brothers for cheap. Had it until let just say I ruined the suede a bit, i was in my teenage year & didn't know proper shoe care unlike now. I always thought brogues were formal but turn out it's more casual. However I still like full wing tip and semi brogues.
One of the most attractive varieties of "dress" shoe around! I have a wear a few different pairs routinely. I find they look best with heavier flannel and tweed suits. They also work well with corduroy trousers work with a tweed jacket on top.
'Worn' with a tweed jacket on top.
I only buy Loake shoes. Love 'em!
I have a pair of Loake Taranula. Fine craftsmanship, very comfortable shoe, a bit more "robust" than church's. I don't wear them a lot (just look at them, they are not for everyday use), but every time I do I get compliments. :)
I have a pair of Loake 1880 Chester brogues in tan - also in the 1880 Country range, also (now) with Dainite soles. And like the reddish chestnut, the tan is also a striking and attractive colour. They initially came with leather soles and I just couldn't get on with them, but now I've had the soles swapped for dainite they are transformed.. I don't know what it was with the leather soles (I have other leather soled shoes that are fine), but in this relatively heavy country shoe they just didn't work for me. But as you say, this style of shoe with the rubber sole really is a go anywhere, do anything shoe. Once they are broken in you really can use them as an outdoor walking shoe on rough ground as well as a smart looking shoe in town.. mazingly versatile. I also have a couple of pairs of lighter, leather soled shoes but I'll now save these for urban use in summer.
I have to say, Loake 1880, for me, is superior to most, if not all, Barker shoes. I feel that Barker's lasts and designs can be a bit out there and not as attractive. I agree with the video here in that Loake 1880 range is a good quality level from which to base your shoe bar.
Tony
Bought a pair of Birkdale in Conker 2 years ago. They were seconds and I paid exactly half the advertised price. Wearing very well, vamps a bit more creased than your pair but still a fantastic pair of shoes.
Excellent shoes. If you avoid caking wax on the soft areas.. vamp etc, they'll out live us. The soles I'd guess were made for Loake's by Danite. All the UK firms have custom soles made for them by Danite. Stunning colour that will only get richer.
Nice video, Thanks. 285 British pounds = $357.92 American dollars. 110 pounds - $138.12.
Have you made a video explaining the difference between Oxford and Derby lacing? As I've seen Google sites claiming a pair of shoes are Oxfords when plainly they are Derby!
Great looking shoes Ash. I ordered a pair of McAlister's from Allen Edmonds during their black Friday sale. Funny story, when I went into the store to get fitted the salesman asked "what's the occasion"? 😂 I said to buy some shoes. I guess most men these days only buy good shoes for special occasions. Unlike us Chaps who wear them daily. Best regards Ron
I love the look of the AE McAlister - a great choice Ron!
I do like my pairs of Loakes, the most recent being some soft leather Chelsea boots.
I also had a fantastic win in a charity shop recently where I picked some similar coloured Barkers brogues. They had the original design box and look like they were only worn once or twice. I pay £15 for them!
Very nice!
I once bought a pair of loake shoes. Sadly because I walk a lot, they lasted less than 6 weeks. I threw them away. Leather soles are replaceable, but I expected them to last longer given this was 25 years ago and they were discounted to £125!
Even the 1880 are not entirely made in England sadly. The leather is sent to India where the upper is made. Then the uppers are sent back to England where they last it and put the sole on. This information comes from Loake. It took some investigating though. I would assume that the Export Grade range - the most expensive shoes they make - are completely made in England.
Opie Taylor was Andy's son. Also known as Richie Cunningham
Yes, I got two pairs of the 1880 and one brown suede pair of some other model. They are a bit nicer than the similar US brand Johnston & Murphy but I haven't given them extensive wear test and all that.
A good Stepping Off Point...
punny
One of my pairs says Dainite on the box. Mine are called Badminton and they are Derby style. Probably all three are Derby because I mostly got them to wear with kilts at the time but I would likely wear the suede ones with any more casual outfit with trousers.
The First Day back at School in California was always wearing clothes WAY TOO HOT for the weather conditions, but was still usually just sneakers.
Just bought a pair of Loake 1880 brogue boots from the local store in Norwich where I live. Excellent service excellent boots, comfy from the first wear.
They suggested I clean with mink oil - any views on this Ash?
I don’t use mink oil, too greasy. I much prefer Renovateur.
A great pleasure, Ash. Question for you, can one wear a cufflinked shirt with a tweed jacket or sportcoat? Must it always be a suit?
Thank you,
Starlight
I think there is nothing wrong with wearing cuff links when donning a tweed jacket or a sports jacket. I wear cuff links with them quite regularly. After all, there is only so little jewelry us gents can wear.
I wear cufflinks with shirts regardless of the occasion, it is merely a functional tool in my opinion.
And bluchers, not derbys. The difference is slight but clear. Derby shoes have quarters that wrap around to the front and cover over the vamp providing the lacing holes; whereas the blucher has the vamp and quarters are one piece, with two smaller tabs sewn on to hold the lace holes. The difference is real, though for the level of formality there is no difference between them.
Here in the UK we don't tend to call them bluchers at all, just derby shoes or gibsons regardless of how the quarters & vamp is constructed
@@Molach101 I understand. The term blucher or derby isn't widely used at all where I live. The general ignorance of men in America about such things is extreme. Thanks to the movie Kingsman: The Secret Service, men are more likely to say oxford if it is a lace up dress shoe. Mostly people just say shoes.
As to when and how you wear them, there is no difference. But anyone describing them for an audience should learn the difference. The construction is different.
The term LWB, is for Long Wing Blucher, and that style was first made in the USA, as described in the blog link shared in another comment, along with the history of the word: Gunboat when describing shoes.
@TheChapsGuide Please estimate how many times have you worn these shoes in 3 years. Thanks.
At least once a week on average
Hello Sr. I have a question: What color shoes should I wear with a burgundy suit. I do have black oxford and brown shades. Thank you!
I would most likely go with black, to achieve a suitable contrast
@TheChapsGuide Thank you, sr. Greetings from CA.
I don't know, this color is no longer burgundy, but sort of red. But red shoes are reserved for the Pope, conservative Chaps should avoid such a cocky choice.
How do you find the loake sizing? I.e. Is a size 8 comparable to other common size 8 footwear?
Loake tend to fit very true to size in my experience.
Interesting that your Dainite soles have not much wear on them. Unless they have not been worn much, this rubber mix is far superior to the Dainite original, which tends to wear quite quickly at the heel. The coloured version by Itshide also wore down much more slowly
What would you do if you scuffed the toe of these shoes?
The only thing you can do, would be to condition the leather and try and polish it out, if that fails. you may have to seek specialist assistance from the manufacturer. Drop them and email and see what they may suggest.
i would say Loake are as good as Barker/Grenson/Oliver sweeney,Jeffrey west/ when you go up Cheany/trickers a little bit better than Loake, Church well overpriced £950? no better than Cheany /Trickers, up again John Lobb, Edward Green my personal favourite. Loake are great shoes nice styles well made and easily found.
You do need to qualify that statement - some Loake models, namely only the 1880 range, are competitors of the brands you have mentioned. Some their lower-end offerings fall way short. I would actually disagree with Barker & Grenson being peer-level manufacturers. Both those brands generally offer higher quality products than Loake in my experience of owning all these brands, and having visited most of these factories.
Opie Taylor 😅
Loake punch a hole in the tongue if they're seconds.