All of my rotations around the Sun, I’ve never seen such a thorough explanation of how an engine work. You just taught me a lot. I really appreciate you making this video. Thank you.
The one thing you didn't check was the kill switch circuit. It might have had some little piece of crud partially grounding it out (as indicated by the inconsistent spark in the beginning) that eventually broke loose without you knowing while you were fooling around with it, allowing it to start later
@@HomeGaragechannelyou did mention that you had inconsistent spark, perhaps that could be why? I can say from personal experience that the switches aren’t always perfect, I have a Husqvarna that occasionally decides not to stop on the switch 😅
Great catch. I guess I have a couple more things to add to the "doesn't start" diagnosis aside from fuel, compression and spark. lol You are a real patient guy. Don't think I would have caught that. Thanks for sharing.
4:18 the reason your gauge showed lower compression than expected is because you used the attachment for the compression tester for the smaller spark plug hole. You need the Schrader valve to be at the absolute end of the tester, or else the extra volume will reduce the compression, even if it was just a little bit. I've struggled with this in the past before I realized this
I love turning on my RUclips feed and finding more and more videos from this channel! I remember taking computer maintenance classes back when I was in community college and having tests where we will be presented with a computer that had some issue and we had to figure out why it was not working, I enjoy watching your videos and following along as you diagnose each mystery and I try to keep up with what I have learned so I can try to anticipate what will you try next. I am not at the point yet where I can foretell your every move but I am still learning 🙂
I had something similar happen. Got a brand new ebz7500 at work. Was loving life, breaking it in and all that. Got low on gas 1st tank went to grab some and came back. Blower died but didn’t run out of fuel. The ignition coil failed within the 1st couple hours of use according to the shop. I didn’t get the chance finish breaking it in…. Boss gave me another new blower the next day and that one has been a champ for 3 seasons. Was super weird to say the least.
Not for the issue you had, but as an FYI for later. These Redmax blowers, it’s very common for both the cylinder head and intake manifold bolts (4) to loosen or check as loose. When either the intake manifold or head gasket leak, if will cause various mysterious running issues. As a preventive measure when new, a good idea would be to put a white paint mark across the bolts and manifold and bolts and cylinder base, so with a quick visual inspection you can see if the bolts have loosened. However, the assemblies/gaskets may compress over time and thus the tension is released and although the bolt hasn’t turned, it would check loose when you tried tightening it. So, it still may be advisable to torque check these bolts periodically. Some other ideas would be blue thread locker, nordlock wedge lock washers (add 2mm to assembled height, may need longer bolt to maintain thread engagement), and lastly, safety wire bolt pairs to each other if you’re good with that sort of thing.
@@HomeGaragechannel On the ones I saw that safety wired the base bolts, they used hex bolts with taller heads that were easier to cross drill for the safety wire.
And I’ll add that if the cylinder bolts become loose, the gasket between the cylinder and crankcase will most likely fail. Once that happens, you won’t have the necessary vacuum to pull the air/fuel mixture from the intake side into the engine. If tightening these bolts gets you running, but the blower is still hard to start and then dies after running long enough to get fully warmed up, replace that gasket. It’s an easy job.
Good findings. Ebz8050 Takes 3 primer pumps, put on choke and then 3 good pulls and it always starts on the 3rd pull. You can take it off choke as soon as it starts. It’s been a great blower. Put on a eBay/China $12 carb on it last year after 6-7 years of ownership with no other issues. I’d buy one again.
Neon spark testers are only a quick test, you really need a spark gap tester to see how far the spark will jump. Sometimes the neon testers will show a small glow and the spark is not good enough to start the engine. I see this sometimes on Honda's that I repair. Those are great blowers, and thanks for the video.
In the past I used to make such a distance "jump" tester with just a wooden block, an old sparkplug without internal resistor and two nails. One nail is fixed on the block and jammed between de electrodes of the sparkplug. The sparkplug boot is then easily connected to this sparkplug. The other nail can slide and is connected to a wire and simple clamp to ground. You cut away the wood surrounding the nailtips. You could set the distance between the tip of the nails. Indeed worked like a charm and I could test (mostly) questionable moped ignitions by using a drill and socket to spin the engine. This way you can test the induction strength of the coil on the actual setup and detect faulty coils. Most times if coils are bad the colour of the spark has an "orange" tone to it and or is hardly visible. I think that a distance of at least 8 to 9mm is ok
Yes, coincidentally I am fixing similar situation on an Echo backpack now and the quick, Harbor Freight-type tester shows plenty of glow. But still won't start even though the coil/flywheel gap is spot on. Next step: ground the plug; hmm, there is no spark. Thus, I have ordered a better gap-type tester ... and a new coil. I have used the HF tester for years and it always seemed to be a good ignition indicator. Because of this experience on the Echo, it is revealing to me that it can register some juice, yes, but it can also be misleading.
I would mix up a fresh batch of 2 stroke fuel which I had to do With a stubborn customers Ryobi line trimmer & he was adamant that he put the right amount of oil into the fuel tank of his 2 stroke Ryobi trimmer about 20 years ago which wouldn't Start. I tipped his fuel out & ran the workshops fuel in it about 20 years ago & it started & ran. He had taken it elsewhere in town & they said the same thing !
I’ve been running redmax 7500 and the 8560s for 6 years the best blower I have ever used all them start with in 3 pulls every time just got 2 new ones yesterday
I have worked on one of these and they are a BEAST ! Made some videos because it would come back every few months with new issues - carbs, fuel filters , coil etc. powerful does not quite cover the output!
We learned something new this video, i suggest adding this to the diagnostic list when it comes to checking the ignition system, checking the air gap between the flywheel magnet and ignition coil will play a huge role when checking for spark, that helped me when i was working on starting the Husqvarna 252RX to check that everything was working as it should be 😄
Thanks for tearing this unit down. I've had this model a few years now. Awesomeness blower, when it's working correctly. That's the problem. Always seems to be something. Recently I'm dealing with it bogging down on full throttle. (AGAIN) I've changed the plug and fuel filter and worked well for a session. Next time out it bogged down again. I changed the fuel and will try it again today. So frustrating.
I have two..when it works it's a beast..and when it doesn't time to tear it down just like you did..only problem I've ever had was fuel related..otherwise it's a good blower..
I think the spark checking tools can be very useful, but at the same time, i like to see the spark right from the plug and just see how much and how good of spark there is. Shame we didn't get a before video of it and then the after. Great work, for sure would leave it how it is. I got a free weed eater on the side of the road, thing started 3 pulls...no issues. Well theres that, HOWEVER, i also have a residential grade Sthil weed eater which is a PAIN to start, and is cold blooded. Some might throw that away just for how it starts.
Great diagnosing vid mate, Ive done plenty of miles with on of these. They can be a real headache sometimes. As it was needed first thing every morning hot or cold weather, it tested your steel now and then. Cheers
I have a two copies of this machine or a rebranded version & i can tell you this much, mine won’t start with wide open throttle, to start i follow the manufacturer’s guide which i s to apply full choke no throttle, pull start until the engine starts & runs & when the engine starts to stumble, open the choke to fully open & the engine continues running, after a minute of warm up i can apply full throttle. I don’t own a single two stroke engine that requires any throttle to start & i own 8 different machines with various sized engines. Last year i had one of my Honda engined Toro Hoverpros that would run for a few minutes then die, it would restart each time but die again. Turned out it was the spark plug which was a resistance type plug, the resistor was failing & cutting out. A new plug immediately fixed the issue. A resistor plug usually has an R in the part number.
I got one for you. I own a STIHL BR380 blower. Even though it’s 11 years old the hours are low. I only use non ethanol gas and synthetic oil. Last week after full throttle use of about 30 minutes it lost power (rpm’s dropped). I took off the cruise control and it idles fine. Shut it off and it starts fine but will not rev up to high rpm. Once cold I start it up and it does the same thing. Only difference is it only takes 5 minutes to act up now. I have done the following. Cleaned the spark arrestor, replaced the spark plug, air filter, fuel filter, carburetor (OEM), ignition coil, and fuel lines. Compression is 127 (checked it right after it lost RPM). I also removed the filler cap thinking the vent was clogged. No change. Spark plug tip looks normal. Once RPM’s dropped I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it still didn’t accelerate. It has me buffaloed. Any thoughts. I know I can buy a new one but the new ones like this are 2.5 lbs heavier and I’m like you, I want to find the problem. Sure would appreciate some help!
sure, have you checked the bolts that hold the cylinder to the block? have you checked the insulator between the carb and the engine? there might be a leak there. You given me a lot of information which I'm grateful for. That's why I'm leaning away from fuel, and spark, and towards an "air leak".
I have checked the cylinder bolts. I have made a visual inspection of the insulator but did not remove it. What could be wrong with it? What should I look for? Thanks for responding.
sure, I would start the engine and while idling, use a spray bottle of water, to spray water around the droplets, and see if the engine reacts to any water droplets that get sucked into a leak. I would normally recommend a different "spray" but I cannot because of liability. An air leak, after the carb, and before the engine would cause the engine to get more air, and not enough fuel, so the engine won't get to full speed.
What do you mean by "spray water around the droplets". Do you mean spray water around the insulator and see if the engine reacts to it? Have you ever heard of an insulator failure? If so, what happened? Are you saying an air leak can be different when the engine is cold and after the engine has warmed up? Thanks for your time?
sorry about that. spray around around the insulator or even the base of the engine where the gasket for the cylinder is. If the water droplets get sucked in, it will cause the engine to change speed, and you'll know there's an air leak there.
If this machine was that new I would have returned it. If not then the customer did what he/she should have done and you fixed it. What a puzzle this one was. If it is that hard to work on I probably would not purchase one unless they are all about the same. Great job on the diagnosis and repair. Thanks for the video's.
Worked as a landscaper some years and in the workshed when picking up a tool such as a chainsaw, blower or trimmer, the older guys would tell you " aha, you have the nr.354 so you need to prime, 1 pull full choke, 2 dry, 1 at 1/2choke - starts".
Good job once again, you sure do have a lots of friends 😄I’m still trying to find a carb for an old chain saw project I started about 6 months ago 😂Mike from Quebec 👍🏻
If it starts, that's good enough for me. The 8 horse I/C on the Roof won't need choking even when cold if it's just been a few days. My pal at his saw shop clued me in on that one. That model Briggs is just that way. It starts on the last charge it got when the ignition was shut off. And the Echo fired on the 2nd pull instead of 3rd! Maybe it'll start cranking itself! Thanks and Blessings!
Thank you so much! I have been struggling figuring out why this chainsaw I got doesn’t try to start. It has spark, compression, gas, and proper timing. I have a feeling it was the magneto distance like that blower, will try!
wow it really gave you a hard time didnt it. Fun to see some of the bigger commercial equipment on the channel, I have heard a lot of good things about redmax and their equipment.
For a while, I was thinking that there was something wrong with the kill switch. I was thinking that the manufacturer had a faulty kill switch that was preventing the blower to start. Good detective work on your part. 🤔🤔🤔🤔👍🏿
You never know, it might still be "working intermittently" which is causing it to flood on start up. The only problem, is that it doesn't randomly shut off, if the switch was bad.
I really like red max, i think its. A good starting machine brand for anyone that wantsa. Good bang for the buck, my dad tho, he doesn’t like back pack blowers, i mean their powerful n all but he just settles for a hand held
That weak spark when you first tried starting it would have been my first path of investigation. I would have checked the kill switch first and then looked at the coil next. Resetting the air gap seemed to help.
My boss sells redmax products. The 8500 in my opinion, the best blower on the market. 2 things over the years that were a problem. 1. The bolts on the fan would egg out causing fan wobble. They recalled it. 2. Coils were intermittent. Similar to the start of this video. Also a recalled part as well. Sorry for the long comment lol.
These are great Blowers. I own 4 of the 8500 and 2 of the 8550. Mine don't seem to flood as easy as this one does not sure if it makes a difference all mine are left hand throttle. Also the oil in the air intake pipe is normal. We always have to choke all of mine to get them started it doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. One more thing always start them with the throttle in the idle position.
I had a lawn boy throw me in for a loop once. Had everything to run. Coil plug carb swaps nothing worked until I looked in the exhaust and realized the piston rings moved and lined up to cause it not to run. Was a real head scratcher
As someone who works in gopeds there is a model called a geo sport. It has a double stack carb like that and they are very finicky. I finally just decided to replace manifold with a single stack manifold. Also that looks a lot like a Zenoah engine.
i have an echo backpack blower that i am working on and we just replaced the ignition coil with s brand new one. however it had no spark no matter where the killswitch is turned to
@@HomeGaragechannel will have to try messing around with it when I get back to it, its part of a shop class I take where we fix people's equipment love your content, I have learned a lot just from watching your videos! keep up the great work
when i worked for my old lawn care job, i primed my 8500 5 times, choked it, i left the throttle on idle or maybe a 1/3 of the way open if it was cold, and then pulled it. And usually but not all the time it would start right up within 3-5 pulls.
@@HomeGaragechannel and usually I would never crank an engine more than I primed it while the choke is on. If the choke is off however, that should be fine.
I've had this problem with an 8550 redmax. I've had this problem on 2 blowers. The fix I went back to Echo after using redmax for 23 years . I'm no longer confident with redmax
I have a bunch of these blowers and sometimes the wires get caught and cut to the kill switch or the connections come loose. Always worth a check too. I have never had an issue with flooding though
Just had exactly the same problem with a post hole borer. Looks like the same carb also. Did everything you did and couldn't really see any problems. But while it was out and stripped, I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and reassembled it. Did the tank also. Put new fuel mix in it and with a prime it started 4th pull. So perhaps I just couldn't see fine dirt particles in the carb??
Anytime an engine floods beyond its normal choke point, you should check the air filter for any obstruction. If that's good, the next thing to check is your high and low fuel rate metering screws could be out of adjustment and letting in too much fuel during normal ops.
Great video. We’ve got one that looks like a brother to the one in your video. WE have the same issue. Brand new and wont start. Sounds like it coughs but never fires up. I’ll have to check what you did. Thanks.
Wow! 😳That was the only problem, it was the coil wasn’t set correctly to the flywheel lol. Anyway I have that exact same ebz8500 blower that’s hip mounted not tube, and it’s probably the best backpack blowers I’ve ever owned. I got mine used for $250 back in May of 2020 and sure has been great! It was used as a residential landscaper before I bought it. Now it’s 9 years old and the only things I had to do to it was change the air filter and the fuel lines, that’s it. No carb problems yet. And plus I repainted it, got new tubes and a decal for the air filter cover back in 2020 as well to make it look like a brand new 9 year old blower.😉👍
A great spark tester is a large rubber insulated spring loaded clamp with a foot long wire attached to it and a smaller spring loaded clamp on the other end of the wire , ( just like the battery charger clamps ) take spark plug out then clamp big clamp onto spark plug and smaller clamp directly onto a metal ground aka engine block or good point of ground " pull cord watch for spark ,, also make sure you have a KNOWN good spark plug to test with ! Don't forget the ignition kill switch can be bad or have high resistance causing weak spark also ! And yes those almost new ignition modules can and do go bad just like that ! My Husqvarna handheld blower worked great one day next day bad ignition module !
Another YT ER's 2nd test after fuel is pull fuel filter off and test if the line to needle holds a vacuum if it doesn't then isolate the line by blocking other side to recheck. You probably know of this but like me haven't got a mityvac yet 😉👍
It almost acts like a carb with a stuck open needle n just dumps fuel into the intake. Maybe that's what's happening when priming. Did you try starting it with the trigger pulled to give it max air flow n no choke after priming?
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah I was just thinking maybe having the throttle wide open might help clear the flooding in a similar way to flooring a flooded car
In regards to the flooding issue on start up, it looked to me that you set the throttle hold lever “cruise control” well above the 1/3 throttle “high idle” as prescribed in the operators manual for starting. Too much starting throttle was confirmed for me when you did actually get the engine started and it revved up well above What I know start up high idle warm up rpm to sound like on my own husq 570.
Yet again another great video!! I love how you went through every diagnostic step to find the issue, that's why I love your channel. You are very detailed in your vids. Me I personally would have done the same thing for starting it. If I can figure out a way to make it work then that's what I'd go with. Keep up the awesome work. Thank you again for your content
I always hold the throttle wide open while pulling on choke no more than 2 times and then open choke and hold down throttle and pull , keeps it from flooding
I have actually used one of these things before, but I sure didn’t enjoy it. These things are really heavy and the shoulder straps are cheap and uncomfortable. After almost 40 minutes of using it I had to take a break because my back was killing me at that point. That is the main reason why I prefer handhelds or walk behind blowers to these things
I have a red max blower the same model you worked on and my issue is it won't take full throttle It will bog down when given full throttle. I have checked everything you did on the one you worked on Any other suggestions
@@HomeGaragechannel I went back to rewatch the video and I realized I am missing one piece The piece that you screwed back in before you installed the intake pipe All i had was a broken piece of plastic laying in there when I took the air intake off. Would that cover missing make a difference
Hey. This was a good one! I’m sure it was Frustrating to say the least. I’m not familiar with those carbs. Are there any hidden adjustments on it so you could lean it out a bit for start up? To answer your question, if it was my own machine I would also just run with it once I figured out the sequence. Cheers
I have the 8500 and it almost always starts on the third pull. I never Prime it either. When it’s cold I give it about 10 seconds before I throttle it up
I'm having the same problem with my Stihl FS 250 trimmer when cold it start up and idle fine but once the engine is heated and I cut off to refuel I can't get it to start back
thank you Darrion Nelson, I hate to say it, but that's one of the hardest problems to solve. Have you looked at the owners manual on hot starts? I'm not aware of the procedure either.
@@darrionnelson4784 hello friend, I also have a stihl fs 250 and I had the same problem when starting with a hot engine, and the solution was to replace the ignition module. did you change the spark plug to see if it is weak?
@@luanpossentimelnekj7984 maybe take off the flywheel and check that seal to see if it is leaking. If you have adjusted the carbs put them back to factory and adjust after seal replacement. If that crank seal is leaking it will do what you are saying and often have a lack power.
@@rudyruiz9521 hello Rudy, my fs 250 was with all the perfect seals, the problem was the ignition module. it could be that the fs 250 of the friend Darrion has some sealing problem.
If you remember you said the spark looked inconsistent when you first checked it. That would have made me dive into spark as the problem and reset the air gap as a first test.
So I have question, it might sound dumb. I was given as a gift a back pack leaf blower, it's a Chinese made blower that the manual says 2014. It's brand new, my question is it calls for 25:1 to 30:1 will it hurt if I run a pre mixed fuel of 40:1? Or should I use what the manufacturer calls for? Thank you for any advice you give or have given me
ive tried the drill trick to start my 4hp craftsman mower but it wont spin it. I have a dewalt 18v drill and an 18v fuel milwaukee impact wrench AND driver and none them wants to spin that craftsman. I have to pull it with the rope and its a pain. What drill are you guys using to spin these motors?
I have same issues with mine , I have changed the cylinder, piston, rings , carb , even the crankcase , gap is fine on the flywheel and no one can turn it on . It's driven me crazy , I don't know where else to look at.
Have you tried putting a new spark plug? I have had some bad experience with those small thread spark plugs which can look good but still would foul and get wet pretty easy
Also, good work on troubleshooting that blower, i was thinking the timing somehow was off until you removed the flywheel and at that time i had no idea what the issue could be, at least you got it to work and found a procedure to start it
the leaf blower has a hard life since no one knows how to kick in the piston rings and stuff so they blast the hell out of it and when the piston and rings are gone they are like oh its toasted time to get a new one.
I've had coils still produce a spark but be bad. I had a saw push me to my limit of sanity and it turned out to be a factory new wire on the coil that was crimped to hard and was cut through but looked fine. The saw still ran but like it had an air leak. It's annoying because you have to check the gas,carb,spark,exhaust, gap, and timing several times before you can finally deduce the coil is shot has an issue or is shot. That blower is way to hard to start I'd be adjusting that carb and possibly even the airflow if that didn't work.
I don't know if I would buy one like that if it was prone to flooding that easily and I'd probably return it if I did , it seems like the carburetor is not working properly when choked you should only use half choke all the time no full choke on it , I think the manufacturer cheaped out on the carb if it was a quality carburetor it would work full choke , half choke and wide open basically fully functional carb , also the adjustment on the ignition coil could have been from it not being tighten properly from the factory or loosen when running and it moved when it was set down (if it was set down a little hard) and thrown the timing or spark strength off making it not start but only speculating what could of happened
@@HomeGaragechannel I guess if you had alot of (leaf) blowing to do you could get use to it but I like using the small battery powered leaf blower we got light weight and gets the job done I don't do alot of blowing most the time it's just to clean tools like table saws , wood planers and other wood working tools me and my dad build wood projects but not really in the last three to four months cause he was diagnosed with cancer and went through chemo and radiation treatment now he's about to go in for surgery really soon so he hasn't had enough strength to do much lately but hopefully in a few months or more he'll be getting better and stronger so we can do more wood work and turning on the lathe anyways went off topic , great videos and fixes
Got to be honest after owning a 2 brand new redmax's and 2 brand new Echo's I would go with the Echo anyday over the redmax. Just found the Echo's are more reliable
@@HomeGaragechannel Yes the redmax was the Ebz7500 and the eariler model was a 7100 redmax. As far as the echo the first one I bought was a 750sh and my current blower is a echo 8010. The 750 was great for everyday driveway and normal leaf blowing. the 8010 is a beast it blows mountains of leaves! Love it!
I have a Poulan Pro blower. It was always running great. Then I ran out of gas. When I mixed a new batch of oil gas mixture it ran for a while then quite. Is my oil to gas ratio off. Or maybe the oil blend, brand (Pro select) was not good for my blower? Can you help?? It will start then quite.
@@HomeGaragechannel I was trying to reach a 40 to 1. but my gas container was 2.6 gals. so my math may have been off. If my math was off and I ended up with a different ratio would that have a negative effect on the engine? No I can't get a compression test done. I don't have a tester. It was running fine with the old gas. Was my brand (Pro Select) bad for the engine?
My 8500 is a 2012 model and still cold starts on the 2nd pull every time. 1st pull warm. Most dependable machine I have ever owned. User error and crappy fuel are usually to blame.
this video was great but i have a question. i have a stihl fs86 line trimmer that runs very well but after 4 mins of use it starts to smoke and when the engine goes back to idle the engine has a little cough. i bought this line trimmer second hand and fixed it up all it needed was some attention in the carb. once i started the trimmer up it ran well but accidentally touched the aluminium housing for the piston for less than a second and burned off a lot of skin on my knuckle. at this stage i only ran the trimmer for about 30 secs. i noticed that the spark plug boot was hot after 4 mins of run. but before i touched the carb the engine was covered in dirt as there was a fuel leak in the tank. i sprayed some degreaser on the engine block and that might be the cause of the smoke but it gets really hot. i also made sure that i tuned the carb to be rich. can u pls help me as this trimmer has 2hp and i need this trimmer as ive got a fare bit of land to maintain
thank you Moo Zuke, I would first confirm that the bolts that hold the cylinder head or jug, were tight, I would then clean the cooling fins to make sure the engine doesn't over heat. The other would to check the spark arrestor screen for a blockage. Let me know what you find.
All of my rotations around the Sun, I’ve never seen such a thorough explanation of how an engine work. You just taught me a lot. I really appreciate you making this video. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
The one thing you didn't check was the kill switch circuit. It might have had some little piece of crud partially grounding it out (as indicated by the inconsistent spark in the beginning) that eventually broke loose without you knowing while you were fooling around with it, allowing it to start later
after checking for spark, and getting, I didn't think it was related to the issue.
@@HomeGaragechannelyou did mention that you had inconsistent spark, perhaps that could be why? I can say from personal experience that the switches aren’t always perfect, I have a Husqvarna that occasionally decides not to stop on the switch 😅
Same thing I thought
Great catch. I guess I have a couple more things to add to the "doesn't start" diagnosis aside from fuel, compression and spark. lol You are a real patient guy. Don't think I would have caught that. Thanks for sharing.
thank you A Patterson.
I hope your friend appreciates all the work you did on his blower.!
yes, and I appreciate that he calls me first, when trouble comes up.
4:18 the reason your gauge showed lower compression than expected is because you used the attachment for the compression tester for the smaller spark plug hole. You need the Schrader valve to be at the absolute end of the tester, or else the extra volume will reduce the compression, even if it was just a little bit. I've struggled with this in the past before I realized this
I never thought of that 👍
I love turning on my RUclips feed and finding more and more videos from this channel! I remember taking computer maintenance classes back when I was in community college and having tests where we will be presented with a computer that had some issue and we had to figure out why it was not working, I enjoy watching your videos and following along as you diagnose each mystery and I try to keep up with what I have learned so I can try to anticipate what will you try next. I am not at the point yet where I can foretell your every move but I am still learning 🙂
thank you I really appreciate this comment!
I had something similar happen. Got a brand new ebz7500 at work. Was loving life, breaking it in and all that. Got low on gas 1st tank went to grab some and came back. Blower died but didn’t run out of fuel. The ignition coil failed within the 1st couple hours of use according to the shop. I didn’t get the chance finish breaking it in…. Boss gave me another new blower the next day and that one has been a champ for 3 seasons. Was super weird to say the least.
that was very strange and thanks for sharing your experience.
Not for the issue you had, but as an FYI for later. These Redmax blowers, it’s very common for both the cylinder head and intake manifold bolts (4) to loosen or check as loose. When either the intake manifold or head gasket leak, if will cause various mysterious running issues. As a preventive measure when new, a good idea would be to put a white paint mark across the bolts and manifold and bolts and cylinder base, so with a quick visual inspection you can see if the bolts have loosened. However, the assemblies/gaskets may compress over time and thus the tension is released and although the bolt hasn’t turned, it would check loose when you tried tightening it. So, it still may be advisable to torque check these bolts periodically. Some other ideas would be blue thread locker, nordlock wedge lock washers (add 2mm to assembled height, may need longer bolt to maintain thread engagement), and lastly, safety wire bolt pairs to each other if you’re good with that sort of thing.
unfortunately the bolts were not loose on this one.
@@HomeGaragechannel On the ones I saw that safety wired the base bolts, they used hex bolts with taller heads that were easier to cross drill for the safety wire.
And I’ll add that if the cylinder bolts become loose, the gasket between the cylinder and crankcase will most likely fail. Once that happens, you won’t have the necessary vacuum to pull the air/fuel mixture from the intake side into the engine. If tightening these bolts gets you running, but the blower is still hard to start and then dies after running long enough to get fully warmed up, replace that gasket. It’s an easy job.
Good findings. Ebz8050
Takes
3 primer pumps, put on choke and then 3 good pulls and it always starts on the 3rd pull. You can take it off choke as soon as it starts. It’s been a great blower. Put on a eBay/China $12 carb on it last year after 6-7 years of ownership with no other issues. I’d buy one again.
Neon spark testers are only a quick test, you really need a spark gap tester to see how far the spark will jump. Sometimes the neon testers will show a small glow and the spark is not good enough to start the engine. I see this sometimes on Honda's that I repair. Those are great blowers, and thanks for the video.
yes I do , I'll have to get one of those.
In the past I used to make such a distance "jump" tester with just a wooden block, an old sparkplug without internal resistor and two nails. One nail is fixed on the block and jammed between de electrodes of the sparkplug. The sparkplug boot is then easily connected to this sparkplug. The other nail can slide and is connected to a wire and simple clamp to ground. You cut away the wood surrounding the nailtips. You could set the distance between the tip of the nails. Indeed worked like a charm and I could test (mostly) questionable moped ignitions by using a drill and socket to spin the engine. This way you can test the induction strength of the coil on the actual setup and detect faulty coils. Most times if coils are bad the colour of the spark has an "orange" tone to it and or is hardly visible. I think that a distance of at least 8 to 9mm is ok
very nice setup, thanks for the information
@@HomeGaragechannel yes and very cheap to.make 😉
Yes, coincidentally I am fixing similar situation on an Echo backpack now and the quick, Harbor Freight-type tester shows plenty of glow. But still won't start even though the coil/flywheel gap is spot on. Next step: ground the plug; hmm, there is no spark. Thus, I have ordered a better gap-type tester ... and a new coil. I have used the HF tester for years and it always seemed to be a good ignition indicator. Because of this experience on the Echo, it is revealing to me that it can register some juice, yes, but it can also be misleading.
I would mix up a fresh batch of 2 stroke fuel which I had to do With a stubborn customers Ryobi line trimmer & he was adamant that he put the right amount of oil into the fuel tank of his 2 stroke Ryobi trimmer about 20 years ago which wouldn't Start.
I tipped his fuel out & ran the workshops fuel in it about 20 years ago & it started & ran.
He had taken it elsewhere in town & they said the same thing !
Very good advice.
I’ve been running redmax 7500 and the 8560s for 6 years the best blower I have ever used all them start with in 3 pulls every time just got 2 new ones yesterday
I have a lot of confidence in their blowers as well. I'm not sure why this one, was such a handful.
I have worked on one of these and they are a BEAST ! Made some videos because it would come back every few months with new issues - carbs, fuel filters , coil etc. powerful does not quite cover the output!
you are absolutely correct about that, This thing is a monster, when moving leaves!
We learned something new this video, i suggest adding this to the diagnostic list when it comes to checking the ignition system, checking the air gap between the flywheel magnet and ignition coil will play a huge role when checking for spark, that helped me when i was working on starting the Husqvarna 252RX to check that everything was working as it should be 😄
thank you Lucas Bergfors.
Thanks for tearing this unit down. I've had this model a few years now. Awesomeness blower, when it's working correctly. That's the problem. Always seems to be something.
Recently I'm dealing with it bogging down on full throttle. (AGAIN)
I've changed the plug and fuel filter and worked well for a session. Next time out it bogged down again. I changed the fuel and will try it again today. So frustrating.
Paul Corsetto.
Learnt how to start the engine by using the drill today.
it comes in handy sometimes
I have two..when it works it's a beast..and when it doesn't time to tear it down just like you did..only problem I've ever had was fuel related..otherwise it's a good blower..
thank you Rodney Brand.
I think the spark checking tools can be very useful, but at the same time, i like to see the spark right from the plug and just see how much and how good of spark there is. Shame we didn't get a before video of it and then the after. Great work, for sure would leave it how it is.
I got a free weed eater on the side of the road, thing started 3 pulls...no issues. Well theres that, HOWEVER, i also have a residential grade Sthil weed eater which is a PAIN to start, and is cold blooded. Some might throw that away just for how it starts.
you make a really good point
This is common for red max blowers. The ignition coil is either faulty or not adjusted properly.
Great diagnosing vid mate, Ive done plenty of miles with on of these. They can be a real headache sometimes. As it was needed first thing every morning hot or cold weather, it tested your steel now and then. Cheers
thank you Aussie nebula
Excellent video on the EBZ8500. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I have a two copies of this machine or a rebranded version & i can tell you this much, mine won’t start with wide open throttle, to start i follow the manufacturer’s guide which i s to apply full choke no throttle, pull start until the engine starts & runs & when the engine starts to stumble, open the choke to fully open & the engine continues running, after a minute of warm up i can apply full throttle.
I don’t own a single two stroke engine that requires any throttle to start & i own 8 different machines with various sized engines.
Last year i had one of my Honda engined Toro Hoverpros that would run for a few minutes then die, it would restart each time but die again.
Turned out it was the spark plug which was a resistance type plug, the resistor was failing & cutting out.
A new plug immediately fixed the issue. A resistor plug usually has an R in the part number.
thanks Will Grant.
I got one for you. I own a STIHL BR380 blower. Even though it’s 11 years old the hours are low. I only use non ethanol gas and synthetic oil. Last week after full throttle use of about 30 minutes it lost power (rpm’s dropped). I took off the cruise control and it idles fine. Shut it off and it starts fine but will not rev up to high rpm. Once cold I start it up and it does the same thing. Only difference is it only takes 5 minutes to act up now. I have done the following. Cleaned the spark arrestor, replaced the spark plug, air filter, fuel filter, carburetor (OEM), ignition coil, and fuel lines. Compression is 127 (checked it right after it lost RPM). I also removed the filler cap thinking the vent was clogged. No change. Spark plug tip looks normal. Once RPM’s dropped I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it still didn’t accelerate. It has me buffaloed. Any thoughts. I know I can buy a new one but the new ones like this are 2.5 lbs heavier and I’m like you, I want to find the problem. Sure would appreciate some help!
sure, have you checked the bolts that hold the cylinder to the block?
have you checked the insulator between the carb and the engine? there might be a leak there.
You given me a lot of information which I'm grateful for. That's why I'm leaning away from fuel, and spark, and towards an "air leak".
I have checked the cylinder bolts. I have made a visual inspection of the insulator but did not remove it. What could be wrong with it? What should I look for? Thanks for responding.
sure, I would start the engine and while idling, use a spray bottle of water, to spray water around the droplets, and see if the engine reacts to any water droplets that get sucked into a leak. I would normally recommend a different "spray" but I cannot because of liability. An air leak, after the carb, and before the engine would cause the engine to get more air, and not enough fuel, so the engine won't get to full speed.
What do you mean by "spray water around the droplets". Do you mean spray water around the insulator and see if the engine reacts to it? Have you ever heard of an insulator failure? If so, what happened? Are you saying an air leak can be different when the engine is cold and after the engine has warmed up? Thanks for your time?
sorry about that.
spray around around the insulator or even the base of the engine
where the gasket for the cylinder is. If the water droplets get sucked in,
it will cause the engine to change speed, and you'll know there's an
air leak there.
If this machine was that new I would have returned it. If not then the customer did what he/she should have done and you fixed it. What a puzzle this one was. If it is that hard to work on I probably would not purchase one unless they are all about the same. Great job on the diagnosis and repair. Thanks for the video's.
thank you for your time D Butler, I appreciate it.
Great video, that's a nice blower, I would probably just do what you did and modify the starting procedure to prevent flooding.
thank you WildeFox.
Worked as a landscaper some years and in the workshed when picking up a tool such as a chainsaw, blower or trimmer, the older guys would tell you
" aha, you have the nr.354 so you need to prime, 1 pull full choke, 2 dry, 1 at 1/2choke - starts".
wow, they know what they're talking about
Good job once again, you sure do have a lots of friends 😄I’m still trying to find a carb for an old chain saw project I started about 6 months ago 😂Mike from Quebec 👍🏻
good luck finding one, Old Carbs are hard to find parts for.
What saw?
If it starts, that's good enough for me. The 8 horse I/C on the Roof won't need choking even when cold if it's just been a few days. My pal at his saw shop clued me in on that one. That model Briggs is just that way. It starts on the last charge it got when the ignition was shut off. And the Echo fired on the 2nd pull instead of 3rd! Maybe it'll start cranking itself! Thanks and Blessings!
thanks for the information.
Boy, what a ride. The moment you pulled the rope while testing the spark plug, I thought about the coil.
I was hoping it was going to be that coil too. I've never had to diagnose this much Before audit was very frustrating
Those red max blowers are awesome 👏
yes they are.
Thank you so much! I have been struggling figuring out why this chainsaw I got doesn’t try to start. It has spark, compression, gas, and proper timing. I have a feeling it was the magneto distance like that blower, will try!
it's worth a shot.
wow it really gave you a hard time didnt it. Fun to see some of the bigger commercial equipment on the channel, I have heard a lot of good things about redmax and their equipment.
me too, As long as I'm aware of the flooding issues, I'd still buy it.
My two new toys is a hedge trimmer and a Weedwhacker and right from the box they both needed carb Justments surprise there
that is surprising, are you high in elevation?
For a while, I was thinking that there was something wrong with the kill switch. I was thinking that the manufacturer had a faulty kill switch that was preventing the blower to start. Good detective work on your part. 🤔🤔🤔🤔👍🏿
You never know, it might still be "working intermittently" which is causing it to flood on start up. The only problem, is that it doesn't randomly shut off, if the switch was bad.
I once used jb weld to block off full choke on a cheap weed eater because I was staying away and kids were using it
Crazy but worked for several years
nice choice
I really like red max, i think its. A good starting machine brand for anyone that wantsa. Good bang for the buck, my dad tho, he doesn’t like back pack blowers, i mean their powerful n all but he just settles for a hand held
I think I understand, it's a weight issue.
That weak spark when you first tried starting it would have been my first path of investigation. I would have checked the kill switch first and then looked at the coil next. Resetting the air gap seemed to help.
it quite possible but I don't that the new stuff has a good spark at all when compared stuff from 20 years ago.
I have 2 redmax chainsaws and a redmax weedeater all are very easy flood the engine if you done start it correctly thanks for the video
thank you David Gunter for you time.
The air gap was the problem All the time but you did All the tests you needed to do to find out the problem
I know right, this was a very unusual suspect
@@HomeGaragechannel Yeah buddy😎👍✌😁
My boss sells redmax products. The 8500 in my opinion, the best blower on the market. 2 things over the years that were a problem. 1. The bolts on the fan would egg out causing fan wobble. They recalled it. 2. Coils were intermittent. Similar to the start of this video. Also a recalled part as well. Sorry for the long comment lol.
no need to apologize and thank you Joe Apicelli.
These are great Blowers. I own 4 of the 8500 and 2 of the 8550. Mine don't seem to flood as easy as this one does not sure if it makes a difference all mine are left hand throttle. Also the oil in the air intake pipe is normal. We always have to choke all of mine to get them started it doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. One more thing always start them with the throttle in the idle position.
thank you nashguy207 for the information
I had a lawn boy throw me in for a loop once. Had everything to run. Coil plug carb swaps nothing worked until I looked in the exhaust and realized the piston rings moved and lined up to cause it not to run. Was a real head scratcher
wow, that was a real pain to figure out.
As someone who works in gopeds there is a model called a geo sport. It has a double stack carb like that and they are very finicky. I finally just decided to replace manifold with a single stack manifold. Also that looks a lot like a Zenoah engine.
oh wow, that's a good idea.
U got any links to those parts?
Pretty sure Zenoah and Redmax are same just like Echo and Shindiawa.
i have an echo backpack blower that i am working on and we just replaced the ignition coil with s brand new one. however it had no spark no matter where the killswitch is turned to
have you tried to remove the small wire going to the Coil, and then try and start it?
@@HomeGaragechannel will have to try messing around with it when I get back to it, its part of a shop class I take where we fix people's equipment
love your content, I have learned a lot just from watching your videos! keep up the great work
thank you and you're doing some really good work at that class. A lot of people appreciate that kind of stuff.
very good job congratulations
Thank you very much!
when i worked for my old lawn care job, i primed my 8500 5 times, choked it, i left the throttle on idle or maybe a 1/3 of the way open if it was cold, and then pulled it. And usually but not all the time it would start right up within 3-5 pulls.
I wish I knew that before as well, would have saved me a lot of trouble
@@HomeGaragechannel and usually I would never crank an engine more than I primed it while the choke is on. If the choke is off however, that should be fine.
makes perfect sense, thanks again.
🤣 Now THAT was funny! “I didn’t even mind that the noise hurt my ears”.
it was quite the relief to hear, thank you Mario V.
Very odd that air gap was like that on a new blower like that . But very glad you were able to get it to run
I know right, thank you Turning_wrenches85
I've had this problem with an 8550 redmax. I've had this problem on 2 blowers. The fix I went back to Echo after using redmax for 23 years . I'm no longer confident with redmax
I understand how you feel.
I have a bunch of these blowers and sometimes the wires get caught and cut to the kill switch or the connections come loose. Always worth a check too. I have never had an issue with flooding though
thank you Reid Shaffer for sharing your information, I appreciate it.
Just had exactly the same problem with a post hole borer. Looks like the same carb also. Did everything you did and couldn't really see any problems. But while it was out and stripped, I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and reassembled it. Did the tank also. Put new fuel mix in it and with a prime it started 4th pull. So perhaps I just couldn't see fine dirt particles in the carb??
yes that could be the issue.
Anytime an engine floods beyond its normal choke point, you should check the air filter for any obstruction. If that's good, the next thing to check is your high and low fuel rate metering screws could be out of adjustment and letting in too much fuel during normal ops.
thank you K L
Great video. We’ve got one that looks like a brother to the one in your video. WE have the same issue. Brand new and wont start. Sounds like it coughs but never fires up. I’ll have to check what you did. Thanks.
thanks, for the cliffs Note version of this, Just try starting it without the choke, and with throttle squeezed.
Wow! 😳That was the only problem, it was the coil wasn’t set correctly to the flywheel lol. Anyway I have that exact same ebz8500 blower that’s hip mounted not tube, and it’s probably the best backpack blowers I’ve ever owned. I got mine used for $250 back in May of 2020 and sure has been great! It was used as a residential landscaper before I bought it. Now it’s 9 years old and the only things I had to do to it was change the air filter and the fuel lines, that’s it. No carb problems yet. And plus I repainted it, got new tubes and a decal for the air filter cover back in 2020 as well to make it look like a brand new 9 year old blower.😉👍
thank you Brother's Lawn Equipment, After using for about 2 hours, on a huge leaf pile, I have to admit, it's great blower.
@@HomeGaragechannel Yessir!😉🤘
Yeah I got two new toys today and I flooded them both on my first attempt to surprise the coil was out of adjustment that does that does happen though
wow, that was weird.
A great spark tester is a large rubber insulated spring loaded clamp with a foot long wire attached to it and a smaller spring loaded clamp on the other end of the wire , ( just like the battery charger clamps ) take spark plug out then clamp big clamp onto spark plug and smaller clamp directly onto a metal ground aka engine block or good point of ground " pull cord watch for spark ,, also make sure you have a KNOWN good spark plug to test with ! Don't forget the ignition kill switch can be bad or have high resistance causing weak spark also ! And yes those almost new ignition modules can and do go bad just like that ! My Husqvarna handheld blower worked great one day next day bad ignition module !
thanks for the information!
Another YT ER's 2nd test after fuel is pull fuel filter off and test if the line to needle holds a vacuum if it doesn't then isolate the line by blocking other side to recheck.
You probably know of this but like me haven't got a mityvac yet 😉👍
It almost acts like a carb with a stuck open needle n just dumps fuel into the intake. Maybe that's what's happening when priming. Did you try starting it with the trigger pulled to give it max air flow n no choke after priming?
No, just had the choke on, which also give it a bit of throttle.
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah I was just thinking maybe having the throttle wide open might help clear the flooding in a similar way to flooring a flooded car
In this case not really. It just makes the Flood worse.
@@HomeGaragechannel right on that's why I brought it up cuz I was unsure if it would have an effect or not on that style of carb
thanks for the ideas, I appreciate it
Unless I missed it you didn't mention any thing about the fuel or did you know the freshness/age?
I made a very brief comment about the owner being the type to only use good fuel and also mix it at the correct ratio.
Nice ...the most diagnostic work....I woulda thought an inconsistent spark plug
that's actually a pretty good guess. IF it hadn't worked, I would have tried a new plug. Thank you SwingerVic.
Sounds like a good running blower,don't know if it would be harder to start when cold though
I'll have to ask the owner about that
I agree. If I know how to start it, I probably would not investigate further.
that makes sense. Thank you Jason Hilliker.
I'd set it up for electric start using a drill to spin it at speed, like one of my friends did with his mower.
That's good idea.
Good video again thanks 🙏
Thanks again!
That’s would be my decision as well. As long as you can start it, that’s good enough for me.
me too, thank you William Snow.
I recommend the SUNOCO non ethanol pump gas ⛽ keep up the good work man
thank you Brian Eastman.
In regards to the flooding issue on start up, it looked to me that you set the throttle hold lever “cruise control” well above the 1/3 throttle “high idle” as prescribed in the operators manual for starting.
Too much starting throttle was confirmed for me when you did actually get the engine started and it revved up well above What I know start up high idle warm up rpm to sound like on my own husq 570.
very true, I'll have to mention that to the owner, I appreciate it Jeremy Rathje.
Yet again another great video!! I love how you went through every diagnostic step to find the issue, that's why I love your channel. You are very detailed in your vids. Me I personally would have done the same thing for starting it. If I can figure out a way to make it work then that's what I'd go with. Keep up the awesome work. Thank you again for your content
Thank yo Gary Allen, I appreciate it, and I will.
I have worked on one of these and they can be difficult!! Too powerful for me when running properly. Great to clean out your flowerbeds!!
Yes they are!
I always hold the throttle wide open while pulling on choke no more than 2 times and then open choke and hold down throttle and pull , keeps it from flooding
is that for a redmax blower or some other brand?
My recommendation: Buy the Stihl BR 800...better harness, side pull start , lots of power and easy to start!
that is a Very Good blower suggestion. Thank you Gary T.
Yeah I'd do it like you did I'd try and see how to start it and then see what to do leave it or replace it
thanks
I have actually used one of these things before, but I sure didn’t enjoy it. These things are really heavy and the shoulder straps are cheap and uncomfortable. After almost 40 minutes of using it I had to take a break because my back was killing me at that point. That is the main reason why I prefer handhelds or walk behind blowers to these things
I completely agree, this one was super heavy as well.
Is it a problem if I start my sthil fs 120 grass trimmer on full choke and when it tryes to shut off I turn the choke off and it runs.
nope perfectly fine in fact.
@@HomeGaragechannel ok thanks
I have a similar blower...and mine likes to be started with the throttle wide open.
unfortunately, after reading the owners manual for this one, I believe they only wanted the throttle to be slightly opened
If I run my Homelite trimmer on full choke it runs fine. It runs perfect on idle but will die on throttle likes it's supposed to.
no problem, try a carb adjustment first, then if that doesn't work replace the carb.
@@HomeGaragechannel it came like that though
let me get this straight, It starts on choke, and runs on choke, and it dies when you give it more throttle?
@@HomeGaragechannel when I give it more throttle on choke it does Wich it's supposed to
I’d also be looking at the reed valve (assuming it has one) since some fuel was in the intake boot…
from the diagrams I don't see a reed valve
I have a red max blower the same model you worked on and my issue is it won't take full throttle It will bog down when given full throttle. I have checked everything you did on the one you worked on Any other suggestions
so you check the spark arrestor screen? if so, you might consider replacing the carb.
@@HomeGaragechannel I did everything you did along with a new plug and leaving the muffler off It will idle fine just wont take fuel.
@@HomeGaragechannel I went back to rewatch the video and I realized I am missing one piece The piece that you screwed back in before you installed the intake pipe All i had was a broken piece of plastic laying in there when I took the air intake off. Would that cover missing make a difference
to be honest, I'm not sure, but if had to guess, I think its important, otherwise, they wouldn't have put it in.
Hey. This was a good one! I’m sure it was Frustrating to say the least.
I’m not familiar with those carbs. Are there any hidden adjustments on it so you could lean it out a bit for start up?
To answer your question, if it was my own machine I would also just run with it once I figured out the sequence.
Cheers
thank you Ez Ray, I'm not sure if it has any hidden screws, but since it wasn't mine, I didn't want to try to find them.
I have the 8500 and it almost always starts on the third pull. I never Prime it either. When it’s cold I give it about 10 seconds before I throttle it up
that's a very nice tip
Did you adjust the carburetor adjustment screws?
If I recall there's only the one screw in the middle of the barrel on top.
I'm having the same problem with my Stihl FS 250 trimmer when cold it start up and idle fine but once the engine is heated and I cut off to refuel I can't get it to start back
thank you Darrion Nelson, I hate to say it, but that's one of the hardest problems to solve. Have you looked at the owners manual on hot starts? I'm not aware of the procedure either.
@@HomeGaragechannel no I haven't but I will do
@@darrionnelson4784 hello friend, I also have a stihl fs 250 and I had the same problem when starting with a hot engine, and the solution was to replace the ignition module. did you change the spark plug to see if it is weak?
@@luanpossentimelnekj7984 maybe take off the flywheel and check that seal to see if it is leaking. If you have adjusted the carbs put them back to factory and adjust after seal replacement. If that crank seal is leaking it will do what you are saying and often have a lack power.
@@rudyruiz9521 hello Rudy, my fs 250 was with all the perfect seals, the problem was the ignition module. it could be that the fs 250 of the friend Darrion has some sealing problem.
If you remember you said the spark looked inconsistent when you first checked it. That would have made me dive into spark as the problem and reset the air gap as a first test.
yes you make a good point.
So I have question, it might sound dumb. I was given as a gift a back pack leaf blower, it's a Chinese made blower that the manual says 2014. It's brand new, my question is it calls for 25:1 to 30:1 will it hurt if I run a pre mixed fuel of 40:1? Or should I use what the manufacturer calls for? Thank you for any advice you give or have given me
it's a very good question to ask. I would do what the manual says.
@@HomeGaragechannel thank you so much for your reply. I have been following the manual but wasn't sure if it would hurt to use a different ratio.
never hurts to ask, thanks again Gary Allen.
ive tried the drill trick to start my 4hp craftsman mower but it wont spin it. I have a dewalt 18v drill and an 18v fuel milwaukee impact wrench AND driver and none them wants to spin that craftsman. I have to pull it with the rope and its a pain. What drill are you guys using to spin these motors?
I'm just using a Harbor Freight corded drill. the cheap one too.
Great video
Thanks!
I have same issues with mine , I have changed the cylinder, piston, rings , carb , even the crankcase , gap is fine on the flywheel and no one can turn it on .
It's driven me crazy , I don't know where else to look at.
sorry to hear that
Great video!
Thank you ProfSteveITCC
Have you tried putting a new spark plug? I have had some bad experience with those small thread spark plugs which can look good but still would foul and get wet pretty easy
Also, good work on troubleshooting that blower, i was thinking the timing somehow was off until you removed the flywheel and at that time i had no idea what the issue could be, at least you got it to work and found a procedure to start it
no but you might be on to something.
thanks I appreciate it.
What cause my trimmer to bog down on when i rev the engine
either a lack of fuel, or the exhaust is clogged.
big job but a great video
thank you Moo Zuke
the leaf blower has a hard life since no one knows how to kick in the piston rings and stuff so they blast the hell out of it and when the piston and rings are gone they are like oh its toasted time to get a new one.
you make a great point.
Love your vid.
thank you Chrissy Betts.
I would check the needle in the carb with a mity vac
good idea
I've had coils still produce a spark but be bad. I had a saw push me to my limit of sanity and it turned out to be a factory new wire on the coil that was crimped to hard and was cut through but looked fine. The saw still ran but like it had an air leak. It's annoying because you have to check the gas,carb,spark,exhaust, gap, and timing several times before you can finally deduce the coil is shot has an issue or is shot.
That blower is way to hard to start I'd be adjusting that carb and possibly even the airflow if that didn't work.
I doubt it's the wire, more than likely the carb
@@HomeGaragechannel didn't say it was just sharing my most frustrating fix.
read more
I don't know if I would buy one like that if it was prone to flooding that easily and I'd probably return it if I did , it seems like the carburetor is not working properly when choked you should only use half choke all the time no full choke on it , I think the manufacturer cheaped out on the carb if it was a quality carburetor it would work full choke , half choke and wide open basically fully functional carb , also the adjustment on the ignition coil could have been from it not being tighten properly from the factory or loosen when running and it moved when it was set down (if it was set down a little hard) and thrown the timing or spark strength off making it not start but only speculating what could of happened
Since I know it's prone, I would still get it, just alter my start up, IT's a damn good blower, the best I've ever used in fact.
@@HomeGaragechannel I guess if you had alot of (leaf) blowing to do you could get use to it but I like using the small battery powered leaf blower we got light weight and gets the job done I don't do alot of blowing most the time it's just to clean tools like table saws , wood planers and other wood working tools me and my dad build wood projects but not really in the last three to four months cause he was diagnosed with cancer and went through chemo and radiation treatment now he's about to go in for surgery really soon so he hasn't had enough strength to do much lately but hopefully in a few months or more he'll be getting better and stronger so we can do more wood work and turning on the lathe anyways went off topic , great videos and fixes
Got to be honest after owning a 2 brand new redmax's and 2 brand new Echo's I would go with the Echo anyday over the redmax. Just found the Echo's are more reliable
thank you for sharing the information, can you tell me which models of echo and redmax you have?
@@HomeGaragechannel Yes the redmax was the Ebz7500 and the eariler model was a 7100 redmax. As far as the echo the first one I bought was a 750sh and my current blower is a echo 8010. The 750 was great for everyday driveway and normal leaf blowing. the 8010 is a beast it blows mountains of leaves! Love it!
very nice, thank you
I have a Poulan Pro blower. It was always running great. Then I ran out of gas. When I mixed a new batch of oil gas mixture it ran for a while then quite. Is my oil to gas ratio off. Or maybe the oil blend, brand (Pro select) was not good for my blower? Can you help?? It will start then quite.
how are you mixing your fuel, and can you get a compression test done?
@@HomeGaragechannel I was trying to reach a 40 to 1. but my gas container was 2.6 gals. so my math may have been off. If my math was off and I ended up with a different ratio would that have a negative effect on the engine? No I can't get a compression test done. I don't have a tester. It was running fine with the old gas. Was my brand (Pro Select) bad for the engine?
even if you had too little Oil, say 60:1 or 80:1 it would take a couple of hours of running to really hurt it.
My 8500 is a 2012 model and still cold starts on the 2nd pull every time. 1st pull warm. Most dependable machine I have ever owned. User error and crappy fuel are usually to blame.
very nice!
this video was great but i have a question. i have a stihl fs86 line trimmer that runs very well but after 4 mins of use it starts to smoke and when the engine goes back to idle the engine has a little cough. i bought this line trimmer second hand and fixed it up all it needed was some attention in the carb. once i started the trimmer up it ran well but accidentally touched the aluminium housing for the piston for less than a second and burned off a lot of skin on my knuckle. at this stage i only ran the trimmer for about 30 secs. i noticed that the spark plug boot was hot after 4 mins of run. but before i touched the carb the engine was covered in dirt as there was a fuel leak in the tank. i sprayed some degreaser on the engine block and that might be the cause of the smoke but it gets really hot. i also made sure that i tuned the carb to be rich. can u pls help me as this trimmer has 2hp and i need this trimmer as ive got a fare bit of land to maintain
thank you Moo Zuke, I would first confirm that the bolts that hold the cylinder head or jug, were tight, I would then clean the cooling fins to make sure the engine doesn't over heat. The other would to check the spark arrestor screen for a blockage. Let me know what you find.