Dunkirk Empire Tankless Boiler Domestic Coil Replacement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- In this video I replace the domestic hot water coil in a Dunkirk Empire 2 boiler after discovering a leak between the coil plate and the cast-iron boiler. This boiler was installed in 2000 and seems to have had the coil replaced sometime around 2009. I obtained a quote from a local burner company and it was between $900 and $2000 (depending on whether the fix was the gasket or coil+gasket.) This quote provided more than enough motivation to kick the DYI process into gear. In the end, I spent about $300+tx and about 6 hours of labor.
Edit: when drilling the holes for the bolts, I mistakenly state 1/8" then 3/8" bit then finally 5/16" bit. The 2nd bit was actually around 3/16".
its always a good Idea to sweat the adapters on the pipe before you thread it in , keeps the heat off of the pipe joint compound . Flux the pipe and the inside of the fitting , keep the heat on the fitting as you solder !!!
just the video I was looking 4 , I have the same problem , thanks for posting.
I needed this video! I have the same boiler and Doing the same thing tomorrow! Wish me luck! Thank you for doing this for us.
You're welcome! Go slow, take your time, you'll do fine and in the end, you'll have the satisfaction you did it!
Thank you for posting! I have a Dunkirk that’s a few years old with horrible hot water pressure in the entire house. Ugh.. I have to replace the coil. Horrible hard water as well.
You're welcome, hope it helps. I have heard of the coils getting plugged up and becoming inefficient as well as reducing water flow. We have hard water as well, it hasn't effected the coil but has ruined the mixing valve.
Dan Field I can’t wait to get it working correctly. The most frustrating thing is having to take a shower with trickling hot water.
The iron studs that came with the coil were ok, they don't have to be SS. The studs that were in good shape in the boiler didn't have to be replaced its best not to use silicone on the boiler surface or the coil there have been times that the silicone acted as a lubricant and the gasket pushed out , after the boiler was filled and heated up ,on the stud that was broken and left in the boiler you could have used a torch to heat up the broken stud to change the temper so it could be drilled out, and replaced . And if you changed the coil because of the inside condition of the coil plate you could have gone to you heating supply bought a thicker gasket material cleaned the plate good and made a new gasket with the thicker material . Just a few ideas and comments from a heating tech who changed hundreds of coil gaskets in my career. M.G.
Great points Mark, thanks for the feedback!
I'm interested in doing this. What thickness gasket material should I ask for. Thanks in advance.
@@ureasmith3049 Best asking the supply company , I’d wait until the warmer weather comes and don’t do the replacement on the weekends ,and say to yourself what if this doesn’t go as planned!
I have the same boiler. 23 years old and the coil has been replaced at least twice. Said screw it and replaced the whole thing with a new boiler and indirect water heater tank. Should be much more efficient.
Gd vid thx. Made the job look easy. High temp silicone is a good backup to the gasket ...NICE! onto the jacuzzi install vid
Enjoyed your video, Thanks for posting!
Thanks Dan, this is perfectly what I need! Not sure if this is your unit but if so, whats your thoughts this many years later on the coil you put in? Do you recommend the kit? Any links to where you purchased if so?
its a great video, thanks very much for posting!
If anyone is attempting this repair I recommend buying the Garlock material gasket which is blue as opposed to the SBR rubber shown in this video. It is superior in every way and will far outlast. Utica Dunkirk part # 240007071.
Good to know. Thank you for the input.
Who ever added a new stud in a different location seems crazy. Maybe they snapped the stud then decided not to take the plate off and put in a new stud? Leaving the original gasket? If they took the plate off I would think they could have extracted the broken stud.
That’s a great 👍 job. Question those the mixing water goes on top in all coils ?? I just got a new Utica steam oil boiler with the same coil that you just illustrated on the video can you help me please thanks 🙏
WHY do they make those coil plates out of mild steel?! Couple bucks more for something that doesn't rust at lightning speed... Thanks for the showing this. I think I will give it a shot...
Thanks for the video...very helpful! Where would the anode rod be in this setup?
Good question. Generally speaking I don't think they are used on boilers of this type, possibly because of prices breaking off and ending up where they shouldn't be. I didn't find one while doing my repair, but I'm not an expert either, so it could have been hidden.
Hello where did you get the plate from? Did it have the holes already in the middle?
I got a Dunkirk which is 9 to 10 years old with the plate only. A few bolts have a tiny bit of rust. Spite of it, I was told that I had to spray the bolts every other day for two weeks cause of corrosion that will make it difficult to lose and potentially snap the bolts. The amount of rust on your plate was a lot worse than mine. Based on your experience, would you recommend replacing this plate and installing a new gasket at this point in time.
I was told that the only thing behind he plate is the tank but no coils, even though I was told the tank could get rusty then decrease the longevity of the tank. Is that going to happen even though the coils aren't behind the plate? Or am I misunderstanding? Should I take this guys advice and replace the gasket If it is just the tank? Thanks. And thanks for your video.
Hello, great question. Let me first say, I'm not a professional, so I will answer your question based on what I would do as an educated homeowner. As i understand it, there are basically 2 reasons you would ever need to mess with these: 1) the coil has some sort of issue. Either it has become plugged from something like calcification on the inside of the pipe (domestic hot water side) or the fins on the boiler side have become clogged with something (rust maybe) to the point where flow or efficiency have become an issue. 2) something is leaking either externally or the coil is leaking internally into the boiler (unlikely since it's a copper coil.) If you have a plate only (no pipes in or out of the plate) then your assumption is correct, there is no coil inside so number one reason doesnt apply to you. I would suspect the makeup your plate is exactly the same as a unit with a coil, minus the holes and the coil. The plate on mine was made up of roughly 1/4" plate steel, painted on the outside only. So to get back to your orgional question of should you replace it or the gasket, I would tend to lean toward "if it ain't broke dont fix it." In my case I had a slow leak that over time was rusting out and breaking my bolts. If left untouched for another few years I suspect the leak would have gotten worse and the rust would have gotten worse until another few bolts popped and ultimately I had water on the floor; and given my luck it would be 2:00 in the morning on Christmas day. My coil had already been replaced prior to me owing the home, and I dont know the reason why, or the quality of the work performed, that in itself may have lead to the leak I had. As far as spraying the bolts, a little rust proofing is always a good thing. I sprayed mine for months ahead of time knowing I would be doing the repair. I dont think daily is necessary, but keep an eye on it, if the bolts are florescent orange with rust, it's not a bad idea to put something on them. Only caution would be becareful with combustables around the hot furnace, you dont want to have a bunch of flammable stuff accumulating around there.
Dan thanks for your response. Yeah I can't see where the water is coming from when there is no coil circulating water behind the plate. I'm suspecting the heating guys are trying to make money off of me for no good reason. Thanks again!
@@danfield8102 thanks for the detailed information, much appreciated. Hope you have better luck in the future.
Awesome video, I'm gearing up to do mine too, same tank and coil, except my coil is a bit worse rust wise.. did you buy your coil locally or online, would definately appreciate a link if the ladder, thanks! 😊
I purchased the coil locally from a company called FW Webb. They are a chain plumbing supply and likely would mail out the part. The only issue I had with the repair was I didnt tighten up the water inlet enough and it had a slow leak. Had to cut the copper replace the threaded peice. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
@@danfield8102 awesome, thanks so much for more info and thanks for putting this up! I will contact them and hopefully start this in a week or 2
did you wipe the cleaned connection with your finger at 18:31?
Yes, checking for burrs. Probably not one of my better habits; when you find one you also end up with a free blood test.
What is this part/gasket called?
Not sure if it has a specific name, other than coil gasket. It came with the coil, but if I recall correctly it could be purchased separately.