"distance to go" is definitely the most important thing on the control to be watching when proofing a program.. lots of operators don't even know it exists
Or avoid G0s entirely and do it by G1 with double feed rate or so, then you don't have to care about 2 knobs. At least that's how I do it if I program something directly into my machines.
@@hinz1 When you're proofing a program, you want the actual program, not a modified one. Because when you repost it out with the rapids, you still have to proof out again. Because it's a new program. You can feel a little safer, if you're sure nothing was changed. But it's a still a risk.
@@SuperAWaC Fixing a crashed machine takes longer than waiting a few seconds until the machine is in position. My approach isn't good for mass production, but I like it for prototyping. And that's what I do most often on my old CNCs.
Thank you Peter, this was extremely interesting! I have only used Mach and LinuxCNC and seeing best practices on professional machines is great instruction! This is what I love most about the videos you make.
this is a great video. It’s very reassuring to me to see someone of your high skill level doing this exactly how I do it. Sometimes I’m hard on myself for taking the extra time to do all this but I’d rather be safe than have a crash or scrap an expensive piece of stock. Thanks again for the great content.
I could not agree more about the control knobs! You can almost instantly turn a knob to 0 if you hands are on it. Definitely a better feel and like you said you can turn that knob without even looking, knowing where its at. Nice video!
Thanks Peter. Very useful info. Things like this separate machinists from machine operators. Everyone running a CNC should at least try and understand the code and anticipate what the machine is going to do next.
Thanks for showing your process! Whenever I am teaching someone I always tell the student that a good machinist is a paranoid machinist, you really can never be too careful.
Yes I have said. It only takes a minute to check it. To save a lot if it goes wrong. Or if it doesn't feel right it probably isn't right. (Hmm. These might make good T-Shirts.) Or one of 2STROKE STUFFING channels shirt says. Easy is not worth Anything.
Really enjoyed this tutorial Peter. How you showed different machines and took a line by line approach was very valuable information on how to properly use the machine. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
As a young machinist. I learn so much from you on CNC maching its awesome, every video has something to learn from! Keep making videos because all they do is help!
Oooh Peter, you're giving away trade secrets here. Jokes aside, this was an excellent edu-torial. Thank you. If you had the time or inclination, putting a sharpie in the tool holder can show tool path, a crash and close ups of the nib will show tool pressure and deflection. Stay safe and well :)
I'm a cad guy but had to do some training with some CNC guys for a little bit, this is exactly what they did everytime the setup changed, great informative video!
I'm thrilled that you've got time to make videos again. Thank you so much for sharing, the insight of how to safely run these machines is much appreciated!
Thanks! Watching your video gave me the idea. As I said in the video. No video that I have seen on RUclips has actually shown this. This is the first thing people should be shown/taught when running CNC equipment. I guess people that have run machines for so many years just do it without thinking. So you don't think about it to show new people. Thanks again for your video that gave me the idea.
@@EdgePrecision Hi Peter, I am working putting a post mortem of the screw up I made last week into this weeks video, and was already going into detail on how I will implement the guidance yu wrote in your comments. I will link your video in as well now. As you say, for home shop guys like me, there was no one to teach me this. You have done us all a great service there. Mark .
Great video Peter. I wish you had done this a year ago when I was learning to use these tools the hard way ;-) You are spot on on your advice and how to use the controls! You are also right that there are no videos on this subject that I have found. Another great tool you didn’t mention is a liberal sprinkling of M01 (optional Pause) throughout a program, after each cutting operation and/or before moving with a new tool, for example, is very useful. Then you turn on the Optional Stop button (upper left group on your control) and go. When you know things are safe you can turn off the M01 control and away you go. I have M01 defined in Fusion360 so I can just select it like another toolpath and drop them in after every toolpath in my program.
There is an extra step that i usually do. Make a scratch pass if not, stop after the first machined depth and check dimensions . there were times when i saved myself a lot of trouble . some parts had visible marks 0.2mm deep but that's sometimes acceptable . At least you didn't rough half a day for nothing(like a colleague of mine did) . This goes hand in hand with the unnecesary spotting . After i spot everything even if there's no need , i check dimensions , sometimes i spot pocket centers also . I am usually making 1-2-4 pieces (on occasion 4-20) . All this scratching and spotting gets edited out if there are 10+ parts . Might sound a little dumb , but sometimes this also takes care of the clearance checks .
My control is a touch screen. Plus: can see the tool path preview in 3D Minus: zero tactile feedback I ended up making my own little control box and doing the electronics to emulate the bits i need (but just a few buttons.) Using different feeling knobs for different functions is actually a "human machine interface" best practice, but sometimes I think these panels are designed by the marketing department, not people who focus on reducing human error...
Good explained! What you could do is also check the end of the program after the last cut. Because then it starts to move rapid again to tool change position or to an other operation with the same tool. In my opinion rapids are the things where most accidents happen. Also simulation of the programs can show a lot . Luckily most machines have simulation programs 😀
The distance to go and single block mode are definitely features you don't want to miss, once you know how useful they are. These are now on my todo list for my self developed machine control software. Also, the knobs are subject of intuitive machine control design. Unfortinately many development engineers don't know a lot about it. Thanks a lot for this video! I really appreciate and like this format and would like to request more content like this. Maybe you can try to improve the shakiness but this is critics on a high level. Thanks a lot!
Hi Peter, do you mind if I use a 15 sec snip from this video in my next video. I want to make a shout out that this is where CNC newbies need to go to learn the correct approach.
Muy bueno...como me gusta la informacion seria y real de tu canal...ya tendrias que tener 10 millones de seguidores ya que el contenido de tu canal es profesional de verdad y muy veraz..gracias de verdad por tu tiempo el cual para nosotros es oro puro..un saludo desde el norte de españa y mucha salud
I didn’t demonstrate this in the video. But in these cases you can put the machine into the dry run mode. In this mode you have more control over rapid moves. I seldom use dry run but I should have shown what it does.
Great video. On the topic of the Haas control, I admit am a bit of a hater but except for start/hold buttons all the others are indistinguishable from each other and crammed together so that you have to look for them every time. You can use the jog handle as override but is clearly not built for that, is very unconvinient and if you bump into it it can go up to 999% feed lol. The button for the coolant is just a switch that changes whatever command is in place so if there is an M8 in the program, coolant will start anyway and you will have to stop it manually if that is what you want.
Thanks Stefano! The one thing I didn't mention in the video in relation to the Haas control. You can set it to override the feed with the jog hand wheel. This is kind off nice because you can go to very high override %. Sometimes that is handy. The thing with the membrane buttons is it takes many pushes to do it. That takes time and are hard to keep track of how many. So this forces you to look at the screen to know what % you are on.
Actually Haas has a neat feature called Handle Feed Override, And you can control the total machine feed on the handle wheel with percentage increments(Rapid follows the feed decrement when you use it). I usually run it all the way down to 0%(Machine stops feeding) And then use the handle wheel to slowly adjust the feed until I know everything is good to go. Then I just press 100% feed and everything is back to normal.
We just got a new Mazak HCN 6800, and while it has the nobs for feed and rapid overrides, it uses a touchscreen for the main display. Not having any tactile feedback at all for some functions seems like a disaster waiting to happen.
About the knob controls: I would add that that they should have a different shape and color, so that the feel is really different and the visual location is faster. I know the research on that has been done in nuclear control room simulator, and the prototype used beer tap handle of various brands to validate this idea (I must have read that in one of Donald Norman's book).
Those are membrane switches of some sort. They either have tactile domes underneath the mylar (preferred), or have PCB traces underneath mylar and push a conductive pad against them. Either way, their main advantage is cost. A potentiometer with detents is probably $5-$10. Tactile domes are pennies. The biggest problem I have with those damn things is that the mylar will wear off you. Either you'll get a clear spot in it, or sometimes even an actual hole. Mach 3 and LinuxCNC have buttons you click with the mouse or keyboard shortcuts. Both leave a good deal to be desired. For what they charge for those controllers, they really ought to be putting proper discrete push buttons on there. Those membrane switches are just crap.
Great video. Same way I’m teaching my trainees now. Have to undo a little bit of the more popular RUclips school of machining though. At least I get to show them debugging of their Fusion 360 code the old fashioned way.
Thank you for your videos - super informative! I do have to ask: for when you need to hold the camera, PLEASE get some kind of camera stabilizing handle. I was getting motion sickness during this video. I'm confident that small stabilizing handles are available that would have let you make this video with little to no extra effort (and maybe even a little less effort!) holding the camera.
I think I may have had the stabilization turned off on the camera. I cant remember if I used the GoPro or the Sony ZV-1 camera I have for this video. If I used the Sony it has crappy stabilization (In my opinion). I do have one of those Stabilization grips for these small cameras. But it not just a plug and play type of deal. Or as you put it no extra effort. I don't like it for inside and around the machine. I suppose it would have been better for the walking shots. Thanks for your input. I appreciate it.
A coupla options for separation of the anvils from the stock, if you have access to either, would be waterjet or wre EDM. Or a friend who you trust with it. Have seen some tight tolerances accomplished with both those methods. What is the stock you're working with, and will you be able to heat treat them in house or send them out for that? 🥩🥔🍻
Agree totally with the "Detent Knobs". First Lathe I started on had them and they're awesome like you say - you keep your eyes on the tool while your fingers are very near the feed overide knob. The newer ones with the "tactile" buttons are a bit hard to use. Does your controller have the option to "block through the program"? I found it also very helpful - especially when doing a first run on a part where the customer only supplied enough raw material/forgings etc.... Keep up the good work. Love your videos!
On my Fusion post processor it generates high feed rates for repositioning moves in radial milling. This is truely dangerous, as 1 maximum feedrate move is still super fast with the rapids and feedrate set to low values. A 16 000 feedrate wont give you much time to react even at 5% feed.
The controls seem rather esoteric, but there's good reason. If I had the means I'd have a pendant with a display and a button to hold down to enable movement, single block or not.
A push to feed might create problems when doing operations that are synchronised between the spindle and linear axis. Eg. If you were rigid tapping and let your finger off you would snap a tap. Single block usually overcomes these problems.
Hi Peter, I was hoping you could maybe help me out with something. I am going to be starting a project with Titanium and I have never machined titanium before, I machine SS every day and have gotten very good at it. Could you tell me a good starting point for feeds and speeds for turning and threading grade 5 titanium? It would be very much appreciated
This is a very difficult question. So much depends on the machine, part setup and grade of carbide. In general any metal with higher melting point becomes harder to machine so if 316 stainless has around 60% and inconell 718 (depending on HT) has around 15% machinability than titanium has around 35%. But this can vary depending on alloy and HT. I have machined titanium that machined very easy and some that was very difficult. This is what I would do. Start off a little slow. Say around 150 surface feet and around .012” per rev. Than speed it up from there. (I am using imperial dimensions). If you have a intermittent cut turning this can be very difficult in titanium. I find that threading goes easer than turning with full profile inserts. I feed straight in. Not at angles and not to deep of a cut per pass. Your turning inserts won’t last as long as in stainless. You absolutely need to find the correct grade and chip breaker. I would say anything that works good in inconell would be a good starting point. But you can turn titanium faster. I don’t know if that helps.
My primary cam is Esprit. But I am using Fusion more. Especially for my plasma table. I have also used it for the machines in the garage. I still haven’t gotten real proficient with it yet. So far so good. Thanks!
On the horizontal mill? It is a full B axis. It could be used like any machine with a rotary axis. But to do true interpolated moves where the Z axis follows the rotary axis this could be done in the cod but the machine doesn’t have what might be considered 5axis type of tool comp. like my Mazak has. Hope that makes sense.
As a machinist you should know everything I presented in this video. This was more for the people that were never taught in industry by other machinists.
@@EdgePrecision Look I'm not gonna lie aye, I only got my certification about 6months ago? And have been using you & your videos to show to my assessment officers (edit: all through my apprenticeship) "Where I want to be one day!" It's not about money, It's about passion.
Yeah, that's one of the things I dislike the most about Haas controllers. There's no tactile feedback about their microwave buttons, good controller software but man are those keys a pain for operation.
I have done some hand programming on an older generation Haas controller and it's a pain. At least my microwave buttons are soft to press and you can warm food by pressing so little of them!
If you happen to run a Haas machine, one thing I do on mine is to link the feed with the rapids. This way whenever I slow down the feedrate, the rapids also slow down by the amount proportional to their overall speed setting. Just something I got used to when running Heidenhain machines. This means that if you're running production and you change your feedrate to be below your programmed feed, the rapids will also move slower than the machine maximum, but once you feel comfortable running that same program, I guess you could just disable that setting all together or update the feedrates to your new value.
You did kinda mention this before, with more detail on the 1 inch standoff for checking but less detail on the button pressing and what to check (-: ruclips.net/video/ELIAFIruEpE/видео.html at 11:00
You could be a teacher, and a really good one. Your skills need to be passed on. ( Yet you do this for free.). You are a good guy.......
Could be? He is a great teacher, I've learned so much!
Actually reaching a ton more people this way and possibly even getting compensated more decently for it..
"distance to go" is definitely the most important thing on the control to be watching when proofing a program.. lots of operators don't even know it exists
So true. Single block, distance to go, and 25% rapids can prevent so many mishaps.
Or avoid G0s entirely and do it by G1 with double feed rate or so, then you don't have to care about 2 knobs. At least that's how I do it if I program something directly into my machines.
@@hinz1 i like having the part done some time this century
@@hinz1 When you're proofing a program, you want the actual program, not a modified one. Because when you repost it out with the rapids, you still have to proof out again. Because it's a new program. You can feel a little safer, if you're sure nothing was changed. But it's a still a risk.
@@SuperAWaC Fixing a crashed machine takes longer than waiting a few seconds until the machine is in position. My approach isn't good for mass production, but I like it for prototyping. And that's what I do most often on my old CNCs.
Thank you Peter, this was extremely interesting! I have only used Mach and LinuxCNC and seeing best practices on professional machines is great instruction! This is what I love most about the videos you make.
I thought this was the ONLY way to proof a program. Maybe I was taught by old school machinist, but this is the way we always did it lol. Nice video.
Same, I’m self taught on a 4axis lathe, and this is how I proof everything
this is a great video. It’s very reassuring to me to see someone of your high skill level doing this exactly how I do it. Sometimes I’m hard on myself for taking the extra time to do all this but I’d rather be safe than have a crash or scrap an expensive piece of stock. Thanks again for the great content.
I could not agree more about the control knobs! You can almost instantly turn a knob to 0 if you hands are on it. Definitely a better feel and like you said you can turn that knob without even looking, knowing where its at. Nice video!
Thanks Peter. Very useful info. Things like this separate machinists from machine operators. Everyone running a CNC should at least try and understand the code and anticipate what the machine is going to do next.
I have been looking for a video like this for so long! So glad you made it.
Thanks for showing your process! Whenever I am teaching someone I always tell the student that a good machinist is a paranoid machinist, you really can never be too careful.
Yes I have said. It only takes a minute to check it. To save a lot if it goes wrong. Or if it doesn't feel right it probably isn't right. (Hmm. These might make good T-Shirts.) Or one of 2STROKE STUFFING channels shirt says. Easy is not worth Anything.
Thanks Peter. Very informative video. I find it useful. Do continue with more such basics. Greeting from Birender Singh Rawat, New Delhi, India
Thank you for continuing to produce quality, interesting, educational content
Really enjoyed this tutorial Peter. How you showed different machines and took a line by line approach was very valuable information on how to properly use the machine. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
As a young machinist. I learn so much from you on CNC maching its awesome, every video has something to learn from! Keep making videos because all they do is help!
I really appreciate you touching on such an overlooked *fundamental* topic. A real P.S.A. for beginning operators, thanks.
Oooh Peter, you're giving away trade secrets here. Jokes aside, this was an excellent edu-torial. Thank you.
If you had the time or inclination, putting a sharpie in the tool holder can show tool path, a crash and close ups of the nib will show tool pressure and deflection. Stay safe and well :)
I'm a cad guy but had to do some training with some CNC guys for a little bit, this is exactly what they did everytime the setup changed, great informative video!
I'm thrilled that you've got time to make videos again. Thank you so much for sharing, the insight of how to safely run these machines is much appreciated!
Very informative !!!! Great tour of how to run something properly. Thanks for sharing !
Thanks, we need more videos like this for different controllers. Thanks again for your time and effort to share your knowledge with us.
Thanks for taking the time to make this. We can always learn something from what you have to impart!
Great video! We taught all of our operators this procedure.
Really helpful video. Thanks for doing it. You have probably save a lot of future carbide, tables and spindle bearnigs with this video.
Thanks! Watching your video gave me the idea. As I said in the video. No video that I have seen on RUclips has actually shown this. This is the first thing people should be shown/taught when running CNC equipment. I guess people that have run machines for so many years just do it without thinking. So you don't think about it to show new people. Thanks again for your video that gave me the idea.
@@EdgePrecision Hi Peter, I am working putting a post mortem of the screw up I made last week into this weeks video, and was already going into detail on how I will implement the guidance yu wrote in your comments. I will link your video in as well now.
As you say, for home shop guys like me, there was no one to teach me this. You have done us all a great service there.
Mark .
I’m just starting CnC at the house and this was an excellent tutorial. Please make more like this!
Great video Peter. I wish you had done this a year ago when I was learning to use these tools the hard way ;-) You are spot on on your advice and how to use the controls! You are also right that there are no videos on this subject that I have found. Another great tool you didn’t mention is a liberal sprinkling of M01 (optional Pause) throughout a program, after each cutting operation and/or before moving with a new tool, for example, is very useful. Then you turn on the Optional Stop button (upper left group on your control) and go. When you know things are safe you can turn off the M01 control and away you go. I have M01 defined in Fusion360 so I can just select it like another toolpath and drop them in after every toolpath in my program.
I appreciate this video a lot as I need to learn how t run my Cincinnati Cnc.
Single block distance to go always gives you an idea ....always thought this was the 1st thing you were taught...
Awesome explanation. Thanks for the video and your time 🙂
i don't own a cnc and i never operated one, but i appriciate your the mindset and explanation so thank you.
yes great video, the one thing I like about the mitts is you go into the caned cycles and write changes change for your own needs
Cant wait to see what you do next!
Verify informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
There is an extra step that i usually do. Make a scratch pass if not, stop after the first machined depth and check dimensions . there were times when i saved myself a lot of trouble . some parts had visible marks 0.2mm deep but that's sometimes acceptable . At least you didn't rough half a day for nothing(like a colleague of mine did) . This goes hand in hand with the unnecesary spotting . After i spot everything even if there's no need , i check dimensions , sometimes i spot pocket centers also . I am usually making 1-2-4 pieces (on occasion 4-20) . All this scratching and spotting gets edited out if there are 10+ parts . Might sound a little dumb , but sometimes this also takes care of the clearance checks .
My control is a touch screen.
Plus: can see the tool path preview in 3D
Minus: zero tactile feedback
I ended up making my own little control box and doing the electronics to emulate the bits i need (but just a few buttons.)
Using different feeling knobs for different functions is actually a "human machine interface" best practice, but sometimes I think these panels are designed by the marketing department, not people who focus on reducing human error...
Awesome was just thinking about these
Good explained! What you could do is also check the end of the program after the last cut. Because then it starts to move rapid again to tool change position or to an other operation with the same tool. In my opinion rapids are the things where most accidents happen. Also simulation of the programs can show a lot . Luckily most machines have simulation programs 😀
The distance to go and single block mode are definitely features you don't want to miss, once you know how useful they are. These are now on my todo list for my self developed machine control software.
Also, the knobs are subject of intuitive machine control design. Unfortinately many development engineers don't know a lot about it.
Thanks a lot for this video! I really appreciate and like this format and would like to request more content like this. Maybe you can try to improve the shakiness but this is critics on a high level.
Thanks a lot!
Hi Peter, do you mind if I use a 15 sec snip from this video in my next video. I want to make a shout out that this is where CNC newbies need to go to learn the correct approach.
No go ahead use what ever you want.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks. This weeks video is sort of my response to yours, and an explaination of what I screwed up, as many have asked.
Very informative! Please do more educational video like this!
Good stuff Peter!
ATB, Robin
amazing
thank you so much Peter, I love this
Very informative and logical.
That’s really nice. I’m Planning to add federate potis to my diy CNC for some time - this motivates me to finally do it :)
Muy bueno...como me gusta la informacion seria y real de tu canal...ya tendrias que tener 10 millones de seguidores ya que el contenido de tu canal es profesional de verdad y muy veraz..gracias de verdad por tu tiempo el cual para nosotros es oro puro..un saludo desde el norte de españa y mucha salud
That rapid override be like: way too fast/still too fast/way too slow
Yup found that running a BT30 drill/tap centre
I didn’t demonstrate this in the video. But in these cases you can put the machine into the dry run mode. In this mode you have more control over rapid moves. I seldom use dry run but I should have shown what it does.
Great content! Thank you!
Great video Peter!
Great video. On the topic of the Haas control, I admit am a bit of a hater but except for start/hold buttons all the others are indistinguishable from each other and crammed together so that you have to look for them every time. You can use the jog handle as override but is clearly not built for that, is very unconvinient and if you bump into it it can go up to 999% feed lol. The button for the coolant is just a switch that changes whatever command is in place so if there is an M8 in the program, coolant will start anyway and you will have to stop it manually if that is what you want.
Thanks Stefano! The one thing I didn't mention in the video in relation to the Haas control. You can set it to override the feed with the jog hand wheel. This is kind off nice because you can go to very high override %. Sometimes that is handy. The thing with the membrane buttons is it takes many pushes to do it. That takes time and are hard to keep track of how many. So this forces you to look at the screen to know what % you are on.
Actually Haas has a neat feature called Handle Feed Override, And you can control the total machine feed on the handle wheel with percentage increments(Rapid follows the feed decrement when you use it).
I usually run it all the way down to 0%(Machine stops feeding) And then use the handle wheel to slowly adjust the feed until I know everything is good to go. Then I just press 100% feed and everything is back to normal.
Yes I have used that function on my Haas machines.
Oh, and here I thought I was being smart, and could teach you something 🤦♂️
We just got a new Mazak HCN 6800, and while it has the nobs for feed and rapid overrides, it uses a touchscreen for the main display. Not having any tactile feedback at all for some functions seems like a disaster waiting to happen.
thanks for this, been wondering how it is in a shop
About the knob controls: I would add that that they should have a different shape and color, so that the feel is really different and the visual location is faster. I know the research on that has been done in nuclear control room simulator, and the prototype used beer tap handle of various brands to validate this idea (I must have read that in one of Donald Norman's book).
Every machine also needs a rapid mode where the rapids are slaved to the feed override so you can control all motion on one knob.
Those are membrane switches of some sort. They either have tactile domes underneath the mylar (preferred), or have PCB traces underneath mylar and push a conductive pad against them.
Either way, their main advantage is cost. A potentiometer with detents is probably $5-$10. Tactile domes are pennies.
The biggest problem I have with those damn things is that the mylar will wear off you. Either you'll get a clear spot in it, or sometimes even an actual hole.
Mach 3 and LinuxCNC have buttons you click with the mouse or keyboard shortcuts. Both leave a good deal to be desired.
For what they charge for those controllers, they really ought to be putting proper discrete push buttons on there. Those membrane switches are just crap.
Great video. Same way I’m teaching my trainees now. Have to undo a little bit of the more popular RUclips school of machining though. At least I get to show them debugging of their Fusion 360 code the old fashioned way.
Great video 👍 pity more car stereos dash's and other devices use index knobs!
Been saying that for years about AC and stereo volume dash knobs. Touch screen only control is dangerous IMO
this is how i lerned... nice you made this vid ... and the anvilprojekt is still alive ... greets from Germany ... ;-)
Thank you for your videos - super informative!
I do have to ask: for when you need to hold the camera, PLEASE get some kind of camera stabilizing handle. I was getting motion sickness during this video.
I'm confident that small stabilizing handles are available that would have let you make this video with little to no extra effort (and maybe even a little less effort!) holding the camera.
I think I may have had the stabilization turned off on the camera. I cant remember if I used the GoPro or the Sony ZV-1 camera I have for this video. If I used the Sony it has crappy stabilization (In my opinion). I do have one of those Stabilization grips for these small cameras. But it not just a plug and play type of deal. Or as you put it no extra effort. I don't like it for inside and around the machine. I suppose it would have been better for the walking shots. Thanks for your input. I appreciate it.
We have some quite old Mazak machines, from the 90's I think, but they also have those keys
A coupla options for separation of the anvils from the stock, if you have access to either, would be waterjet or wre EDM. Or a friend who you trust with it. Have seen some tight tolerances accomplished with both those methods. What is the stock you're working with, and will you be able to heat treat them in house or send them out for that? 🥩🥔🍻
That was great, thanks.
Agree totally with the "Detent Knobs". First Lathe I started on had them and they're awesome like you say - you keep your eyes on the tool while your fingers are very near the feed overide knob. The newer ones with the "tactile" buttons are a bit hard to use. Does your controller have the option to "block through the program"? I found it also very helpful - especially when doing a first run on a part where the customer only supplied enough raw material/forgings etc.... Keep up the good work. Love your videos!
Oops, hahaha...@14:11 - answered my question. Cheers
That’s helpful. Thank you.
Soo nice to see! Thanks!
love the videos
Single block and distance to go for all rapid moves on a new program, then control with the feed rate over ride if it’s a high pucker factor...lol.
I like this video, thanks!
Hello from Denmark
Would like to see you do it on your lathe go tell us what each button or area do. I never ran a mazak before.
On my Fusion post processor it generates high feed rates for repositioning moves in radial milling. This is truely dangerous, as 1 maximum feedrate move is still super fast with the rapids and feedrate set to low values. A 16 000 feedrate wont give you much time to react even at 5% feed.
Hiya. I still want to sweep in exhange for an Anvil, lol.
Excellent stuff. Use the info you have with some critical thinking to make sure the machine is going where you expect it to go.
11:12 Only now I realized how huge the Mazak tailstock is! Also I hate the membrane keypad of the Siemens 828D with a passion.
The controls seem rather esoteric, but there's good reason. If I had the means I'd have a pendant with a display and a button to hold down to enable movement, single block or not.
A push to feed might create problems when doing operations that are synchronised between the spindle and linear axis. Eg. If you were rigid tapping and let your finger off you would snap a tap. Single block usually overcomes these problems.
@@mtnbikeman85 Fair point.
awesome video, it really explains alot of things that most poeple dont say or show
I prefer the knobs on my Fanuc O-M control mill to my haas lathe.
Hey great subject, I'll take an anvil and even pay shipping!
Cad, cam and cnc to make an anvil!
Hi Peter, I was hoping you could maybe help me out with something. I am going to be starting a project with Titanium and I have never machined titanium before, I machine SS every day and have gotten very good at it. Could you tell me a good starting point for feeds and speeds for turning and threading grade 5 titanium? It would be very much appreciated
This is a very difficult question. So much depends on the machine, part setup and grade of carbide. In general any metal with higher melting point becomes harder to machine so if 316 stainless has around 60% and inconell 718 (depending on HT) has around 15% machinability than titanium has around 35%. But this can vary depending on alloy and HT. I have machined titanium that machined very easy and some that was very difficult. This is what I would do. Start off a little slow. Say around 150 surface feet and around .012” per rev. Than speed it up from there. (I am using imperial dimensions). If you have a intermittent cut turning this can be very difficult in titanium. I find that threading goes easer than turning with full profile inserts. I feed straight in. Not at angles and not to deep of a cut per pass. Your turning inserts won’t last as long as in stainless. You absolutely need to find the correct grade and chip breaker. I would say anything that works good in inconell would be a good starting point. But you can turn titanium faster. I don’t know if that helps.
@@EdgePrecision that absolutely helps! I really appreciate the time you have given to me!!! I will keep you posted as to how I make out
Very Good Vid! A+ You Liking Fusion?
My primary cam is Esprit. But I am using Fusion more. Especially for my plasma table. I have also used it for the machines in the garage. I still haven’t gotten real proficient with it yet. So far so good. Thanks!
Thanks Peter
Can you do simultaneous milling with the B axis or is it only positional?
On the horizontal mill? It is a full B axis. It could be used like any machine with a rotary axis. But to do true interpolated moves where the Z axis follows the rotary axis this could be done in the cod but the machine doesn’t have what might be considered 5axis type of tool comp. like my Mazak has. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the reply and keep up the great work. I thoroughly enjoy your videos
Nyc cnc should watch this video.
Thanks!
Thanks
Old school.😊👍.switches and knobs!!!!😅... Hahahahahaha!!.
As a Machinist [albeit not at your level]......
I'm glad I learned NOTHING in this video...
It gives me more self confidence. =]
As a machinist you should know everything I presented in this video. This was more for the people that were never taught in industry by other machinists.
@@EdgePrecision Look I'm not gonna lie aye, I only got my certification about 6months ago? And have been using you & your videos to show to my assessment officers (edit: all through my apprenticeship) "Where I want to be one day!"
It's not about money, It's about passion.
this is exactly how I teach students
at the lowest setting for rapid my machine definitely still moves lol
shoulda bought a haas....it never moves too fast :/
Hooray for knobs & detents. Someone tell the Car Manufacturers. Dump the touch-screens!
Yeah, that's one of the things I dislike the most about Haas controllers. There's no tactile feedback about their microwave buttons, good controller software but man are those keys a pain for operation.
I have done some hand programming on an older generation Haas controller and it's a pain. At least my microwave buttons are soft to press and you can warm food by pressing so little of them!
that control panels... so confused... heideinhan is better for me, in every details, btw great videos!
Смотрел до конца! Где конечный результат- три наковальни?
money shot at 23:38 lol
The first thing we're gonna do is slow the rapid down... Peter should be in charge of new drivers!!! ROFL
If you happen to run a Haas machine, one thing I do on mine is to link the feed with the rapids. This way whenever I slow down the feedrate, the rapids also slow down by the amount proportional to their overall speed setting.
Just something I got used to when running Heidenhain machines.
This means that if you're running production and you change your feedrate to be below your programmed feed, the rapids will also move slower than the machine maximum, but once you feel comfortable running that same program, I guess you could just disable that setting all together or update the feedrates to your new value.
You did kinda mention this before, with more detail on the 1 inch standoff for checking but less detail on the button pressing and what to check (-: ruclips.net/video/ELIAFIruEpE/видео.html at 11:00
yes , just as you learnd it ni the late 80`s, lol
^^in
I have found over the years that the biggest problem is operators? Don’t know how to read G-code
Switches and buttons and knobs and whatever, lol.
Run in a tool? Can we just walk it in? Can it stay outside?
Great video, thanks!