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Thank you! Happy it help! I get a lot of critism for making my video too long, but I prefer covering as much as I can, so getting your message is appreciated!
I have a cylinder 5 misfire that I am unable to resolve. It’s a GMC canyon. I replaced the coils, spark plugs, and fuel injectors.I am going to replace the fuel filter next but I am sort of fearing the worse case. I also replaced the valve cover and gasket prior to all these replacements. You think I need a new engine? I have 327,008 miles on it right now.
On top of the engine following the 5 cylinder coil, you will see the wires that connects to each coil. From the connector of that coil follow the wires. You may have one that is damaged, bare or snapped and grounds on the top of your engine. The damage can really small or look like a wire that is pinched
Thanks for the tips,didn't see the water in the air box,but it makes sense. At a light in idel ,my H3 seems to shiver ,for a few seconds.No codes.My power is good ,start up is good only at a light,is that a coil.l replaced all the colls a year ago from Nappa.Should they be OEM. Thankyou ,be .safe
Hi Wayne, thanks for the comment! I don't think OEM parts will make a big difference, some people swear by them, but I use the same cheap ignition coil that Napa sells. So no worries. For the shivers, it depends. It could be a few thing. Do those shivers appears when you start the engine and idling or its more when the engine is warm? Is the idle rough or its more like a small vibration from the engine and can you feel it in the pedal for the accelerator? Is there a lack of power when accelerating? The MAF sensor can cause problems and the fuel pressure too. If you have a tool for testing the fuel pressure I would take a look at it. First would be to check your wires to the spark plug and the spark plugs (just remove them and look at them, check if they have signs of damage) Clean the MAF with a cleaner. But a bad MAF will sometime make the car have problems to start and it would show a code. Well, I remember a guy that had problems with is idle at stop signs...he cleaned everything and replace the whole wires, coil and ect... his problem was the AC pulley that was in bad shape and it was making the engine work harder. To test it just let it idle a few minutes with AC on. If the idle seems worse or if you touch the pulley after closing the engine and its burning hot compare to the others it could be that.
@@probonomechanic Thank you for the quick response.l will look at what you mention and maybe the injectors which I have never cleaned yet.lt only happens when it's at a stop in idel,and warm,but not all the time.,thank you
@@waynehutchinson1423 yep, injectors are a good idea to clean. I suggest Seafom Injectors Cleaner. Some people doesnt like it, others swear by it. At that point its up to you, but if you try it out, make sure to take the Seafoam Fuel Injectors Cleaner and not the Motor Treatment bottle. The Motor Treatment is made to remove the carbon accumulation in your cylinders and valve etc....I would use it on an older carb engine over the fuel injected one (miracles on lawnmower haha)....but that's me. There isnt a miracle solution on the market, and everyone got their horror stories and victories.
@@probonomechanic I have much the same problem. Vibration at idle. The vibration is actually so bad that it broke the transmission dipstick tube bracket. I can't figure out what it is. So far I've replaced: MAF, MAP, tensioner, belt, throttle body, coils and plugs, and used a bottle of Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner. It only seems to vibrate at idle, I don't *seem* to be lacking any power, but it's hard to say since it was doing this when I bought it. It does seems to be worse when it's warm. I have an ODB2 scanner and it's not showing any codes, but it's the free Nonda job, and I don't trust it. Would you recommend removing the belt and starting the engine to see if the vibration is still present? If I could do that, then I could rule out or confirm the AC condenser, power steering pump, water pump, and alternator pulleys as the cause. At this point I'm leaning toward a bad injector, even though the Lucas didn't really help. Next step unless you have a better idea, is to replace all the injectors and the fuel filter.
Excellent video. You're the only one that mentioned this slant in the engine and cylinder number 5 getting water in it because of slant AND not screwing it down straight. I couldn't understand the test of the c coil packs though were you disconnect etc....
Hi, thanks for the comment! I'll explain to coil testing: We know one of the coil is defective. Step 1: remove airbox, disconnect one coil and reinstal the airbox. 2: start engine. If the idle is exacly the same, it meens you disconected the defective one and we will replace that one (you are finish with the steps). If it change the idle it meens you disconnected a functional coil and need to continue the steps. 3: remove airbox, reconnect the coil, go to the next coil inline ,and restart step 1: disconnect that coil and resintal the airbox. 4: repeat until there is no change in the idle after disconnecting that coil. I hope it help to clarify a bit. Feel free to ask question if you need mote information or more detailed steps!
I had a question for my 2006 hummer h3! Every time after i pump gas & i try to start the car it cranks & takes a bit to start up. Not sure what it could be as it only does it after I pump gas, and randomly i noticed it’s starting to do it more. Like if i don’t go to work for a couple hours then when it’s time for me to leave it cranks a bit when i turn the key & sounds like it’s not going to start & then it does. Not sure if i made sense, but it seems weird to me that it’s been doing it after i pump gas even if it’s at half a tank & when i leave the car sitting for a couple hours. Thanks!
Hi, two things come to mind from your explanation. The first one is a problem with either the fuel cap or with the Vapor Canister Valve. Usually, this will show a code P0455. Check the following link on Hummerforum to see the steps to locate and change it: www.hummerforums.com/forum/hummer-h3-17/step-step-purge-valve-replacement-28763/ You can find the part here: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hummer,2006,h3,3.5l+l5,1431872,exhaust+&+emission,vapor+canister+purge+valve+/+solenoid,4936 The reason is it seems like your fuel line is loose pressure. The fuel cap maintains the pressure in the tank. The second thing could be a fuel line leaking. You'll need to follow the line from the tank to the front. But I would suggest getting under the Hummer and check from the top of the tank. The Hummer H3 has a tendency to have the fuel pump cover rusting over time and it will corrode the fuel line elbow that is located on top of the fuel tank. Your nose will let you know when you are close to there if there is a leak. With your finger follow the line to see if it's wet. Let me know how it goes and if you have other symptoms let me know, it can help me to pinpoint the problem.
It could, but you would get other symptoms. Like a slow acceleration, a rough engine idle and rough engine when driving. The vehicle would have a hard time to reach a cruzing speed. Is the engine idle rough even when driving? Is the engine feels like it has a lack of power? Best way is to do the scan with an OBD2 scanner. You can get a scanner for 10-20$, its a usefull tool that doesn't drain your wallet and can be use on any cars from nowadays. But another possibility could be a clog exhaust, where the catalictyc converter becomes clogged and prevent the flow from the exhaust. The vehicle won't be able to accelerate and it will feel as if the engine is straining under its own weight. Let me know!
@@probonomechanic I got a code reader off amazon, but it is only giving me 1 code about something unrelated. The car had ignition coil failure with the symptoms you described, and a mechanic replaced only 2/5 coils and spark plugs. Was good for about 2 weeks, but not anymore. Now, it is not rough at idle, but definitely lack of power when accelerating and does not move forward when put into D. This is not always the case though, as early in the day it does that, but later it does not. Not a battery issue at all, as I have a new battery, connections, and alternator. It's a mechanical issue for sure. I just don't want to replace the remaining ignition coils unnecessarily, while the problem is something else. But it looks like I am going to anyway. I will look into your suggestion about the clogged exhaust also. Thanks for the advice! I appreciate your replies.
A clog exhaust would not stopped and the symptom would get worse. It as to be something else. The fact that it ia not always on remove the coil problem from my mind. I have a few questions, what is the unrelated code that you got from the reader? Do you have a sunroof? If you do, check your floor carpet to see if its wet. The drain can be clog and water will drip inside your panels. I have a doubt that I know what is the problem. When you look at the wires from the coils, follow them and check for any melt or kink in the wires. This type of symptom that fluctuate could be a wire that ground over the engine.
@@probonomechanic Okay. I will check the wires. The error code is P0449 in 2006 Hummer H3 which is for evaporator canister valve/solenoid. I am fixing that in the next few days. I have a sunroof, but I fixed the plugged line that was causing water to go in the car a few years ago. It’s a common problem in this car. Will look into exhaust related issues from my side, if problem persists after replacing the ignition coils.
Ok, keep me posted. Maybe a last question, do you have any message that shows in your dashboard when it has problem accelerating? Like something in the lines of "Traction Failed, reduce power" or something similar?
Where are the intake sensor wires connected? I bought a Hummer this week and the sensor is there, but the connector with the wires are gone. The old owner must have disappeared with him, I don't know. I would like to know the path of the sensor wire input to its final destination. Thank you
Peter is going up and down my ETA for home at 3 if the engine is shaking is not really well what domy ETA for home at 3 if the engine is shaking is not really well what do I do
This did not fix my p0301, p0300, p0201, p0203...? I replaced all five coils and spark plugs and then I tried the Injectors as well and still I have a misfire...? HELP
Ohhh this sounds like a burn wire, had a similar case. Look at the wires that cross over the top of the engine, and look for any damage. It may be really small. Just follow from the injector/coil plug in and follow them. Bring a flash light and take your time. It doesn't mean that's the problem, but it ring my spidey sense! Beside that, can you tell me the symptoms of the vehicle? Is there any other codes showing up?
I get the 300 random misfire all the time. I've replaced coil number 5 three times already. I cleaned the throttle body, mad sensor, put seafoam motor treatment in at all the oil changes. I have intermittent rough idle and the engine light basically stats on all the time now for the random misfire. The plugs are new. I'm about to buy another set of coils but this time an expensive non OEM set to see if it makes a difference. Only thing I haven't done yet is pull the injectors and clean them. Any other suggestions on how to get rid of this problem once and for all?
@@bradleygma my speedy senses are tingling. Kinda sound as intake/head gasket leak at this point If you changed everything else and nothing seem to change, I could see it happen. I would need more to go on from here. Any bad acceleration, stutter from the engine on load, etc... EGR, crank/cam sensor, or a vaccum leak can cause that code. Check that hose that I disconnected at 13:40 to see if there is any crack. It can play havoc on your idle.
Hi, this is a 2006 with the 3.5. If you have a 2008, it is a 3.7 still with 5 cylinders and it should be pretty much the same. If you have the alpha trim its the v8
Hi, which year and model do you have? Older models I would say before 2007 can't be switch on your own. You would need a dealership to play with it. If you got a recent model it depends on the accessories. Some vehicle you just need to press quickly on the tab in your console (the tab to switch between mileage and Trip A, Trip B etc...). Press the tab quickly (quick press and release) to cycle around the options. Here it depends on the model for the option, but if you have the option you would see it in vehicle informations selection. Other model will have controls on the steering wheel. For those model you need to press the menu botton or the arrows to go into settings from there you can find either instrument cluster or somethign the says English (becareful not to select the language here as it should say metric when you change it and not French). Usually the owners manual will cover that. But like I depending on the year and model you may have to go to the dealership and make them modify it uaing their OBDII tool. Hope it helps!
Discount at RockAuto!
It's a 5% discount that is valid until the 25th of July 2021.
CODE: 174731902159300031
This is how you use it: Enter your discount code in the 'How Did You Hear About Us?' box without any other numbers or characters for an additional 5% savings. Discounts cannot be applied to shipping, gift certificates, or to an order once it is marked as shipped.
Hope it helps!
Thank you for all of the small details that one would never know otherwise.
Thank you! Happy it help!
I get a lot of critism for making my video too long, but I prefer covering as much as I can, so getting your message is appreciated!
Thanks for showing how the clip on the connector works!
My pleasure, glad it helped!
Ami no me llega corriente alas bobinas
Спасибо! Очень полезное видео! Очень полезный канал!
Не за что! Рад, что это помогло!
I have a cylinder 5 misfire that I am unable to resolve. It’s a GMC canyon. I replaced the coils, spark plugs, and fuel injectors.I am going to replace the fuel filter next but I am sort of fearing the worse case. I also replaced the valve cover and gasket prior to all these replacements. You think I need a new engine? I have 327,008 miles on it right now.
On top of the engine following the 5 cylinder coil, you will see the wires that connects to each coil.
From the connector of that coil follow the wires. You may have one that is damaged, bare or snapped and grounds on the top of your engine. The damage can really small or look like a wire that is pinched
Check for water accumulating in Cylinder 5. Remove plug & coil and vacuum. Look for telltale slight rusting. Clean plug and reinstall.
Thanks for the tips,didn't see the water in the air box,but it makes sense. At a light in idel ,my H3 seems to shiver ,for a few seconds.No codes.My power is good ,start up is good
only at a light,is that a coil.l replaced all the colls a year ago from Nappa.Should they be OEM.
Thankyou ,be .safe
Hi Wayne, thanks for the comment!
I don't think OEM parts will make a big difference, some people swear by them, but I use the same cheap ignition coil that Napa sells. So no worries.
For the shivers, it depends.
It could be a few thing. Do those shivers appears when you start the engine and idling or its more when the engine is warm?
Is the idle rough or its more like a small vibration from the engine and can you feel it in the pedal for the accelerator?
Is there a lack of power when accelerating?
The MAF sensor can cause problems and the fuel pressure too.
If you have a tool for testing the fuel pressure I would take a look at it.
First would be to check your wires to the spark plug and the spark plugs (just remove them and look at them, check if they have signs of damage)
Clean the MAF with a cleaner.
But a bad MAF will sometime make the car have problems to start and it would show a code.
Well, I remember a guy that had problems with is idle at stop signs...he cleaned everything and replace the whole wires, coil and ect... his problem was the AC pulley that was in bad shape and it was making the engine work harder.
To test it just let it idle a few minutes with AC on. If the idle seems worse or if you touch the pulley after closing the engine and its burning hot compare to the others it could be that.
@@probonomechanic Thank you for the quick response.l will look at what you mention and maybe the injectors which I have never cleaned yet.lt only happens when it's at a stop in idel,and warm,but not all the time.,thank you
@@waynehutchinson1423 yep, injectors are a good idea to clean. I suggest Seafom Injectors Cleaner. Some people doesnt like it, others swear by it. At that point its up to you, but if you try it out, make sure to take the Seafoam Fuel Injectors Cleaner and not the Motor Treatment bottle. The Motor Treatment is made to remove the carbon accumulation in your cylinders and valve etc....I would use it on an older carb engine over the fuel injected one (miracles on lawnmower haha)....but that's me.
There isnt a miracle solution on the market, and everyone got their horror stories and victories.
@@probonomechanic ok great.Thanks for your advice and help.l will let you know when ot stops raining out....lol
@@probonomechanic I have much the same problem. Vibration at idle. The vibration is actually so bad that it broke the transmission dipstick tube bracket. I can't figure out what it is. So far I've replaced: MAF, MAP, tensioner, belt, throttle body, coils and plugs, and used a bottle of Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner.
It only seems to vibrate at idle, I don't *seem* to be lacking any power, but it's hard to say since it was doing this when I bought it. It does seems to be worse when it's warm. I have an ODB2 scanner and it's not showing any codes, but it's the free Nonda job, and I don't trust it.
Would you recommend removing the belt and starting the engine to see if the vibration is still present? If I could do that, then I could rule out or confirm the AC condenser, power steering pump, water pump, and alternator pulleys as the cause.
At this point I'm leaning toward a bad injector, even though the Lucas didn't really help. Next step unless you have a better idea, is to replace all the injectors and the fuel filter.
Excellent video. You're the only one that mentioned this slant in the engine and cylinder number 5 getting water in it because of slant AND not screwing it down straight. I couldn't understand the test of the c coil packs though were you disconnect etc....
Hi, thanks for the comment!
I'll explain to coil testing:
We know one of the coil is defective.
Step 1: remove airbox, disconnect one coil and reinstal the airbox.
2: start engine. If the idle is exacly the same, it meens you disconected the defective one and we will replace that one (you are finish with the steps). If it change the idle it meens you disconnected a functional coil and need to continue the steps.
3: remove airbox, reconnect the coil, go to the next coil inline ,and restart step 1: disconnect that coil and resintal the airbox.
4: repeat until there is no change in the idle after disconnecting that coil.
I hope it help to clarify a bit. Feel free to ask question if you need mote information or more detailed steps!
I had a question for my 2006 hummer h3! Every time after i pump gas & i try to start the car it cranks & takes a bit to start up. Not sure what it could be as it only does it after I pump gas, and randomly i noticed it’s starting to do it more. Like if i don’t go to work for a couple hours then when it’s time for me to leave it cranks a bit when i turn the key & sounds like it’s not going to start & then it does. Not sure if i made sense, but it seems weird to me that it’s been doing it after i pump gas even if it’s at half a tank & when i leave the car sitting for a couple hours. Thanks!
Hi, two things come to mind from your explanation.
The first one is a problem with either the fuel cap or with the Vapor Canister Valve. Usually, this will show a code P0455.
Check the following link on Hummerforum to see the steps to locate and change it: www.hummerforums.com/forum/hummer-h3-17/step-step-purge-valve-replacement-28763/
You can find the part here: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hummer,2006,h3,3.5l+l5,1431872,exhaust+&+emission,vapor+canister+purge+valve+/+solenoid,4936
The reason is it seems like your fuel line is loose pressure. The fuel cap maintains the pressure in the tank.
The second thing could be a fuel line leaking. You'll need to follow the line from the tank to the front. But I would suggest getting under the Hummer and check from the top of the tank. The Hummer H3 has a tendency to have the fuel pump cover rusting over time and it will corrode the fuel line elbow that is located on top of the fuel tank. Your nose will let you know when you are close to there if there is a leak. With your finger follow the line to see if it's wet.
Let me know how it goes and if you have other symptoms let me know, it can help me to pinpoint the problem.
@@probonomechanic Thank you so much! i will take a look & update you once it gets fixed! super helpful! 😊
Would a bad ignition coil also be cause of car not accelerating good from stopped? And not moving forward by itself in drive?
It could, but you would get other symptoms. Like a slow acceleration, a rough engine idle and rough engine when driving. The vehicle would have a hard time to reach a cruzing speed.
Is the engine idle rough even when driving? Is the engine feels like it has a lack of power?
Best way is to do the scan with an OBD2 scanner. You can get a scanner for 10-20$, its a usefull tool that doesn't drain your wallet and can be use on any cars from nowadays.
But another possibility could be a clog exhaust, where the catalictyc converter becomes clogged and prevent the flow from the exhaust. The vehicle won't be able to accelerate and it will feel as if the engine is straining under its own weight.
Let me know!
@@probonomechanic I got a code reader off amazon, but it is only giving me 1 code about something unrelated. The car had ignition coil failure with the symptoms you described, and a mechanic replaced only 2/5 coils and spark plugs. Was good for about 2 weeks, but not anymore.
Now, it is not rough at idle, but definitely lack of power when accelerating and does not move forward when put into D. This is not always the case though, as early in the day it does that, but later it does not. Not a battery issue at all, as I have a new battery, connections, and alternator. It's a mechanical issue for sure. I just don't want to replace the remaining ignition coils unnecessarily, while the problem is something else. But it looks like I am going to anyway.
I will look into your suggestion about the clogged exhaust also. Thanks for the advice! I appreciate your replies.
A clog exhaust would not stopped and the symptom would get worse. It as to be something else.
The fact that it ia not always on remove the coil problem from my mind.
I have a few questions, what is the unrelated code that you got from the reader? Do you have a sunroof? If you do, check your floor carpet to see if its wet. The drain can be clog and water will drip inside your panels.
I have a doubt that I know what is the problem. When you look at the wires from the coils, follow them and check for any melt or kink in the wires. This type of symptom that fluctuate could be a wire that ground over the engine.
@@probonomechanic Okay. I will check the wires. The error code is P0449 in 2006 Hummer H3 which is for evaporator canister valve/solenoid. I am fixing that in the next few days. I have a sunroof, but I fixed the plugged line that was causing water to go in the car a few years ago. It’s a common problem in this car.
Will look into exhaust related issues from my side, if problem persists after replacing the ignition coils.
Ok, keep me posted.
Maybe a last question, do you have any message that shows in your dashboard when it has problem accelerating?
Like something in the lines of "Traction Failed, reduce power" or something similar?
Where are the intake sensor wires connected? I bought a Hummer this week and the sensor is there, but the connector with the wires are gone. The old owner must have disappeared with him, I don't know. I would like to know the path of the sensor wire input to its final destination. Thank you
Peter is going up and down my ETA for home at 3 if the engine is shaking is not really well what domy ETA for home at 3 if the engine is shaking is not really well what do I do
This did not fix my p0301, p0300, p0201, p0203...? I replaced all five coils and spark plugs and then I tried the Injectors as well and still I have a misfire...? HELP
Ohhh this sounds like a burn wire, had a similar case.
Look at the wires that cross over the top of the engine, and look for any damage. It may be really small. Just follow from the injector/coil plug in and follow them.
Bring a flash light and take your time.
It doesn't mean that's the problem, but it ring my spidey sense!
Beside that, can you tell me the symptoms of the vehicle? Is there any other codes showing up?
06 black on black. Got 417,000km now. 😅 how long can it go? I should know soon enough 😂
Hahah you beat me by an 100 000km hahah
If it runs, it runs. If it dies, it dies lol
Its a fun drive so can't blame you for stretching it!
@@probonomechanic 👍 I’m ready to fix or swap so no fear.
Thanks for the information 😮
Anytime! Glad if it helped!
Only thing I'd say is diagnose the 300 random misfire too. Mine is doing this now. Could be a coil on it's way out.
Totally agree!
I get the 300 random misfire all the time. I've replaced coil number 5 three times already. I cleaned the throttle body, mad sensor, put seafoam motor treatment in at all the oil changes. I have intermittent rough idle and the engine light basically stats on all the time now for the random misfire. The plugs are new. I'm about to buy another set of coils but this time an expensive non OEM set to see if it makes a difference. Only thing I haven't done yet is pull the injectors and clean them. Any other suggestions on how to get rid of this problem once and for all?
@@bradleygma why number 5? I think if a coil were dead you get a specific code not random. I would also change the boots and use dielectric grease
@@bradleygma my speedy senses are tingling. Kinda sound as intake/head gasket leak at this point If you changed everything else and nothing seem to change, I could see it happen.
I would need more to go on from here. Any bad acceleration, stutter from the engine on load, etc...
EGR, crank/cam sensor, or a vaccum leak can cause that code.
Check that hose that I disconnected at 13:40 to see if there is any crack. It can play havoc on your idle.
hi is this a 2008 hummer H3?
Hi, this is a 2006 with the 3.5.
If you have a 2008, it is a 3.7 still with 5 cylinders and it should be pretty much the same. If you have the alpha trim its the v8
How you switch miles to kilometers on your H3 dashboard?🙄
Hi, which year and model do you have?
Older models I would say before 2007 can't be switch on your own. You would need a dealership to play with it.
If you got a recent model it depends on the accessories.
Some vehicle you just need to press quickly on the tab in your console (the tab to switch between mileage and Trip A, Trip B etc...).
Press the tab quickly (quick press and release) to cycle around the options. Here it depends on the model for the option, but if you have the option you would see it in vehicle informations selection.
Other model will have controls on the steering wheel. For those model you need to press the menu botton or the arrows to go into settings from there you can find either instrument cluster or somethign the says English (becareful not to select the language here as it should say metric when you change it and not French).
Usually the owners manual will cover that. But like I depending on the year and model you may have to go to the dealership and make them modify it uaing their OBDII tool.
Hope it helps!
@@probonomechanic Hi, I got 2009 H3T.