I wrote out the procedure above as well so you have it step by step. This will take you about 30 minutes total to remove each nut and check the surfaces, put some blue loctite on the studs and replace the nut torquing it to the recall spec of 41 ft lbs of torque. I hope this helps those who don't have time to go to a dealer and leave your truck for a day over a 30 minute to 1 hour job if they have to file down the weld splatter if yours has any. This took me a total of 30 minutes to check all eight of the nuts and mine was fine. My trucks build date was 5/23 so that might help others knowing the build date and the outcome of my truck on this recall. I will not be taking my Tacoma to Toyota for this.
Best explanation to date! More plausible that a combination of slag and under torquing the nuts. I agree with you on using med thread locker. After torquing the nut you can always mark the nut with a sharpie and see if any of the nuts loosen
Also have to check the stud for welding splatter and the stud would be replaced if the stud has splatter. If there is splatter under the nut. It gets filed and the nut is replaced with a new nut. A second visit is required for the stud replacement. They mark it with a paint pen and order parts. Its a big job if studs have to get replaced. Its a quick in and out if its just the inspection, slag removal and nut replaced.
I just did mine today and all 8 were fine. However, I did fine a spatter of weld slag near one bolt on the driver side…the bottom bolt closest to the front of the truck, but it did not affect the seating of the bolt. It took me about 30min. I used 41ft/lb and blue lock tite per your recommendation…thank you!
I totally agree did mine as well and they were probably somewhere around 25 ft lbs, I’m a plumber and used to torquing anchors so I have a good feel for torque, they were way under torqued from the manufacturer
Mine were not very tight either when I removed each nut. None of the nuts had any weld splatter under them. I did reinstall each nut with blue loctite and torqued each one to the recall spec of 41 ft lbs of torque. My 2023 Tacoma build date was 5/23. The recall covers all Tacoma's with a build date starting from 5/22 through the end of the 2023 model year production run. Toyota nor the axle supplier knows how many Tacoma's were actually affected.
Interesting about being torqued wrong from factory. In the comment section of another video a guy said he check his himself, he said it seems like they were more at 25 then 41. I had mine done and they said it was fine, but now the thumping that I heard and felt when breaking is gone, so that tells me they weren't at proper torque. What frustrating is that I have taken this truck in 3 times for scheduled service, and each time I told them I can hear and feel a thump coming from the rear when I break, they did nothing about it.
Just stumbled upon your channel. I see your handle relates to a Ford product. You should be driving a Ranger, you wouldn't be having these issues, lol. I love my '21 Ranger!...Just kidding, thanks for the information on the Tacomas and good luck to you
No, this recall is minor in nature, all you do if weld splatter is found under the nut you file down the weld splatter and replace the nut if at a Toyota dealer, Even if you see a small scratch or indentation on the bottom of the nut that is not going to cause a problem If the entire under side of the nut is grooved then replace the nut if you are doing this yourself. I would however use blue lock tight and use the recall notices 41 ft lbs of torque.
this is as simple as a recall as it gets. The tundra has recalls with machining metal shavings inside the engine destroying the engine, that's the kind of recall that should siuade you from buying.
According to a Toyota mechanic their shop manual says 33 ft lbs of torque, but again the recall procedure from Toyota is calling for 41 ft lbs of torque. The rear axles are the same on the pre third gen 2022/2023 models so that is why I think Toyota was under torquing these nuts. If you have a pre 2022/2023 model I would not worry about them.
ANNOUNCEMENT: Many Loctite formulas require the use of Loctite's primer. If the primer isn't used, the Loctite wont work. Loctite hardens by stealing elements from the metal, so if the metal has any coating, the primer needs used. Generally, the formulas that need a primer end with a positive number. It's best to double check your formula.
From Permatex Technical Data Sheet: PERMATEX Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE is a medium strength anaerobic threadlocking material, which cures between engaged threads to form a unitized assembly that resists virtually all leakage, shock and vibration. The product is a single component, anaerobic liquid that cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. Ideal for all 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch diameter nut and bolt assemblies. Active Metals Soft Steel Iron Copper Brass Manganese Bronze Nickel Aluminum Alloy Active Metals do not require primer. Inactive Metals Bright Platings Anodized Surfaces Titanium Zinc Pure Aluminum Stainless Steel Cadmium Inactive Metals will require primer. The studs and nuts used for the axle bolts will fall under the active metals and will not require primer. While you can use primer on the active metals it is not needed and you will have to work fast or the thread lock will harden before you finish installing and torquing the nuts.
I wrote out the procedure above as well so you have it step by step. This will take you about 30 minutes total to remove each nut and check the surfaces, put some blue loctite on the studs and replace the nut torquing it to the recall spec of 41 ft lbs of torque. I hope this helps those who don't have time to go to a dealer and leave your truck for a day over a 30 minute to 1 hour job if they have to file down the weld splatter if yours has any. This took me a total of 30 minutes to check all eight of the nuts and mine was fine. My trucks build date was 5/23 so that might help others knowing the build date and the outcome of my truck on this recall. I will not be taking my Tacoma to Toyota for this.
Best explanation to date! More plausible that a combination of slag and under torquing the nuts. I agree with you on using med thread locker. After torquing the nut you can always mark the nut with a sharpie and see if any of the nuts loosen
Also have to check the stud for welding splatter and the stud would be replaced if the stud has splatter. If there is splatter under the nut. It gets filed and the nut is replaced with a new nut. A second visit is required for the stud replacement. They mark it with a paint pen and order parts. Its a big job if studs have to get replaced. Its a quick in and out if its just the inspection, slag removal and nut replaced.
I just did mine today and all 8 were fine. However, I did fine a spatter of weld slag near one bolt on the driver side…the bottom bolt closest to the front of the truck, but it did not affect the seating of the bolt. It took me about 30min. I used 41ft/lb and blue lock tite per your recommendation…thank you!
Glad you had no issues, now you don't have to worry about it any further.
I totally agree did mine as well and they were probably somewhere around 25 ft lbs, I’m a plumber and used to torquing anchors so I have a good feel for torque, they were way under torqued from the manufacturer
Mine were not very tight either when I removed each nut. None of the nuts had any weld splatter under them. I did reinstall each nut with blue loctite and torqued each one to the recall spec of 41 ft lbs of torque. My 2023 Tacoma build date was 5/23. The recall covers all Tacoma's with a build date starting from 5/22 through the end of the 2023 model year production run. Toyota nor the axle supplier knows how many Tacoma's were actually affected.
Interesting about being torqued wrong from factory. In the comment section of another video a guy said he check his himself, he said it seems like they were more at 25 then 41. I had mine done and they said it was fine, but now the thumping that I heard and felt when breaking is gone, so that tells me they weren't at proper torque. What frustrating is that I have taken this truck in 3 times for scheduled service, and each time I told them I can hear and feel a thump coming from the rear when I break, they did nothing about it.
Thank you so much for this video. Great job!
You're on top of your game. Good job!
Good video
They said mine was good to go. I inspected them myself and never saw any signs of spatter and nothing was loose.
Good info. Doesn't seem like a bid deal.
Just stumbled upon your channel. I see your handle relates to a Ford product. You should be driving a Ranger, you wouldn't be having these issues, lol. I love my '21 Ranger!...Just kidding, thanks for the information on the Tacomas and good luck to you
So, if a guy were looking at a 2023 Tacoma the recall shouldn’t necessarily dissuade him from purchasing it?
No, this recall is minor in nature, all you do if weld splatter is found under the nut you file down the weld splatter and replace the nut if at a Toyota dealer, Even if you see a small scratch or indentation on the bottom of the nut that is not going to cause a problem If the entire under side of the nut is grooved then replace the nut if you are doing this yourself. I would however use blue lock tight and use the recall notices 41 ft lbs of torque.
this is as simple as a recall as it gets. The tundra has recalls with machining metal shavings inside the engine destroying the engine, that's the kind of recall that should siuade you from buying.
What are the torque specs for pre 2022-23 models?
According to a Toyota mechanic their shop manual says 33 ft lbs of torque, but again the recall procedure from Toyota is calling for 41 ft lbs of torque. The rear axles are the same on the pre third gen 2022/2023 models so that is why I think Toyota was under torquing these nuts.
If you have a pre 2022/2023 model I would not worry about them.
For a new trucks it has a lot of problems
This guy may need a stiff drink. Just a tad shaky today.
I know that torque wrench cost 🤑🤑🤑
ANNOUNCEMENT: Many Loctite formulas require the use of Loctite's primer. If the primer isn't used, the Loctite wont work.
Loctite hardens by stealing elements from the metal, so if the metal has any coating, the primer needs used.
Generally, the formulas that need a primer end with a positive number. It's best to double check your formula.
From Permatex Technical Data Sheet: PERMATEX Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE is a medium strength anaerobic threadlocking material, which cures between engaged threads to form a unitized assembly that resists virtually all leakage, shock and vibration. The product is a single component, anaerobic liquid that cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. Ideal for all 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch diameter nut and bolt assemblies.
Active Metals
Soft Steel
Iron Copper
Brass
Manganese
Bronze
Nickel
Aluminum Alloy
Active Metals do not require primer.
Inactive Metals
Bright Platings
Anodized Surfaces
Titanium
Zinc
Pure Aluminum
Stainless Steel
Cadmium
Inactive Metals will require primer.
The studs and nuts used for the axle bolts will fall under the active metals and will not require primer. While you can use primer on the active metals it is not needed and you will have to work fast or the thread lock will harden before you finish installing and torquing the nuts.
Hahaha you don’t need lock tight.
Does not hurt to use loctite, these nuts are not a locknut style nut and they do not use a lock washer so to be safe loctite is a good idea.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 if you were my mechanic, I would be very appreciative of you using blue loctite, thank you