Thank you. Only thing I’ll change is pulling the sensor forward so it activates the signal sooner (so I can uncouple the first car). Easy install. Hardest part was scratch building the signal light itself.
Good work with that signal Paul. If you decide to do an electric uncoupler inside the building, be sure to energize it with only a momentary switch so you can couple back up later on. Keep up the good work sir!!
I might look into that for a one-off train signal on my layout. On the prototype, it's wired to the crossing signals, to tell the engineer when it's clear to go. I built the signal but it's not lighted. Like you said, there are probably more applications.
Thought of that. What I may do is move the sensor forward so the light goes red earlier - without having to push both cars in so far. That way I can uncouple with the first car exposed from the building. The inside car can stay connected to the first car. It makes a nice challenge for operations. To get the inside car, you have to pull both out. I may put a manual Kaydee magnet right at the building entrance. Thanks for the ideas and for watching!
I don’t know what kind of decoder you use, but if you don’t already, ESU is an amazing option. I found a method that I haven’t seen anywhere else of making consisting extremely easy, along with the possibility of adding multiple function maps. I have a video on it on my channel. As far as I’m aware, no one else knows about this. If you do decide to watch it, just know it’s kinda cringey. I apologize, it’s my first time.
Plan is to uncouple the cars right at the door. Could do with a Kaydee magnet, but the cars don’t need to be all the way in the building to be uncoupled. I also plan to move the sensor closer to the door so it goes red when the first car is sticking out of the building. It was meant to be a safety so nobody hit the back wall. But now my practical thinking is coming to the same conclusion you did. Thanks for the comments and for watching.
@@HartfordWhaler That green / red signal looks fantastic, and is a great idea, along with your idea to uncouple the cars at the entrance of the building. And if you want to go down another rabbit hole - LOL - then think about converting your perfectly functional Kadee 148's to Prototype Couplers (formerly Sergeant Engineering) because they are 1/87 scale, and operate so well with no springs to force the coupler shank to return to the center of the coupler pocket, making (de)coupling on curves so much easier (-if you're going to manually uncouple your cars). Having said that, you'd have to convert all motive power / rolling stock, unless you just want to use them between MU'd engines with a Kadee 148 at the front of the lead engine, and the rear of the 2nd engine to couple with Kadee equipped rolling stock. FYI: I sold my engines that I converted to Sergeant Engineering couplers a few years ago, but now that I am starting over again, and "going small" - like you and a few other influential modelers are doing - I only plan to purchase about six DCC equipped engines. Therefore, the lure of those Prototype Couplers is very strong, and I thought I'd mention them to you because you are doing your best to emulate prototypical operations. prototypecouplers.com/FAQCompatibility.html
that's really cool... it's a nice looking signal too...
Thank you!
That is a GREAT idea! I might be able to use something like that on a couple hidden trackage areas.
Thank you. Only thing I’ll change is pulling the sensor forward so it activates the signal sooner (so I can uncouple the first car). Easy install. Hardest part was scratch building the signal light itself.
Good work with that signal Paul. If you decide to do an electric uncoupler inside the building, be sure to energize it with only a momentary switch so you can couple back up later on. Keep up the good work sir!!
Thank you! I ended up moving the sensor closer so it goes red while the first car is just outside the door. Allows me to uncouple it by hand.
@@HartfordWhaler Like you said before, good minds think alike. I was thinking of uncoupling outside the building also. Have a great day sir
Pretty nifty! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Yep, I think that’s cool…great modeling idea…
Cheers!
Looks nice Paul!!!
Thanks Manoj! And thanks for your help with this technology!
I might look into that for a one-off train signal on my layout. On the prototype, it's wired to the crossing signals, to tell the engineer when it's clear to go. I built the signal but it's not lighted. Like you said, there are probably more applications.
Definitely was a fun little project Bill. I like adding those small details to add to the fun.
Nice project!!!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
How cool is that! Very awesome! 🤠👍
Thanks! Adds some additional fun.
Need a uncoupler, under the tracks, in the building. Probably electric rather than just a magnet.
Thought of that. What I may do is move the sensor forward so the light goes red earlier - without having to push both cars in so far. That way I can uncouple with the first car exposed from the building. The inside car can stay connected to the first car. It makes a nice challenge for operations. To get the inside car, you have to pull both out. I may put a manual Kaydee magnet right at the building entrance. Thanks for the ideas and for watching!
I don’t know what kind of decoder you use, but if you don’t already, ESU is an amazing option. I found a method that I haven’t seen anywhere else of making consisting extremely easy, along with the possibility of adding multiple function maps. I have a video on it on my channel. As far as I’m aware, no one else knows about this. If you do decide to watch it, just know it’s kinda cringey. I apologize, it’s my first time.
I use ESU Loksound v5 for all my locos. Love them. I’ll check out your channel!
👍👍👍
Thanks!
Kool signal 😎 neat setup ! But was wondering 🤔…. What will you use to uncouple the cars ?
Plan is to uncouple the cars right at the door. Could do with a Kaydee magnet, but the cars don’t need to be all the way in the building to be uncoupled. I also plan to move the sensor closer to the door so it goes red when the first car is sticking out of the building. It was meant to be a safety so nobody hit the back wall. But now my practical thinking is coming to the same conclusion you did. Thanks for the comments and for watching.
@@HartfordWhaler That green / red signal looks fantastic, and is a great idea, along with your idea to uncouple the cars at the entrance of the building.
And if you want to go down another rabbit hole - LOL - then think about converting your perfectly functional Kadee 148's to Prototype Couplers (formerly Sergeant Engineering) because they are 1/87 scale, and operate so well with no springs to force the coupler shank to return to the center of the coupler pocket, making (de)coupling on curves so much easier (-if you're going to manually uncouple your cars).
Having said that, you'd have to convert all motive power / rolling stock, unless you just want to use them between MU'd engines with a Kadee 148 at the front of the lead engine, and the rear of the 2nd engine to couple with Kadee equipped rolling stock.
FYI: I sold my engines that I converted to Sergeant Engineering couplers a few years ago, but now that I am starting over again, and "going small" - like you and a few other influential modelers are doing - I only plan to purchase about six DCC equipped engines.
Therefore, the lure of those Prototype Couplers is very strong, and I thought I'd mention them to you because you are doing your best to emulate prototypical operations. prototypecouplers.com/FAQCompatibility.html
That’s really cool
Thanks!
That is really cool
Thanks! Figured I’d try something different.