Hi Dan! Thank you for the nice comment! Do you like the picturesque "White Canadian Sands" in my video? Is that the Canadian content you refer to? Or is it the Canadian accent eh? Thanks, Gregg
Awesome video glad to have you back making movies. All your trucks are awesome. I love your all your trucks, wish I had one. For me the building and fabrication is fun to watch
Hi Adam, I'm ready to make one for you any time. I am always excited to work with professional drivers that know all about towing safely. Drive safe driver! Gregg
Good stuff!! I really enjoy these videos! It's cool to see what others pull their rvs with and how you do your conversions! This is a cool option!! I drive commercial in the U.S. If i could ever afford to do it my choice of semi would be a Volvo VNL 400 with a flat top roof.
I completely follow your idea Gordon. The looks of the lower height sleeper model 400 are sharp when towing our 5th wheels. And, the sleeper is shorter too, keeping the overall rig length down. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Tipsy and Friends! That work-stuff gets in the way of making videos sometimes. When you have a yard-full of customer commitments staring at you each morning, those take priority over editing videos. Thanks for taking the time to say hi!
Using an HDT to tow a 5th wheel is very appealing! I've seen them set up to hold smart cars or older CanAms. I'm wondering if there is an option to hold 1 or 2 new (2020-2021) 111.5 inch long CanAm Spyders? And..still tow a 5th wheel? If not this is still on the short list. We would plan on a toy hauler. Thank you in advance! Have a great day!
Hi Catherine, I am always excited to take care of the custom needs of my customers. Two of the older Spyders have been done! Those are on the Watt's rig which I originally built named 'Snick'. I'd be happy to figure something out for the longer ones. I would welcome you to call me to chat about it. My cell number and toll free numbers are on my website at www.rvhaulers.ca
Hey I would like to like to see a Volvo that has a extended sleeper or rv unit with room for one canam spyder. Might have to have the extended bed because I am wanting to see hdt's thT have a sleeper large enough to live in without pulling a fifth wheel or trailer. Love the videos.
Hi Jack. Good to hear from you and Happy New Year. Thanks for the comment. I am excited that folks have discovered we have no FET in Canada! It is almost like getting a smart car bed for free with the taxes my customers save!
@@rvhaulers FET is definately an issue. I would be careful about importing a CND new truck though. I'd want to be absolutely sure that FET is not due on that importation. But if it is not that is a great thing.
Hi Gregg, Glad to see you back in action, love watching your videos, very informative. I hope 1 day I can dream about owing a HDT to pull my dream trailer-lol. But on a serious note, my ? for you is, where do you get these trucks? Do you buy them at an auction or do you go on the internet & see what’s for sale? Just curious. Thanks & keep doing the great work on these videos & those big rigs.
Hello Tim, and thanks for the great question. I never buy trucks from an auction. I only buy trucks for my customers where I have owner-operator history, and have the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and do our due diligence. I don't like stress! I want to know how the truck was maintained, what has been fixed, and how it was treated and used. The only way to buy one in my opinion is from an individual you can meet, and even go for a drive with.
Great to see a new video, love to see a HDT with a Jeep on the flatbed, or what else clients do with that huge space besides loading a Smarty....be safe,
Howdy Inverted H! We are still going strong here in the shop! We continue to be so honored that folks have the trust to come to us with their project wishes. Thanks for watching my videos, and please stay happy and healthy.
Hello Adventurers! I don't have a video for that topic (yet). Thanks for the suggestion on a new video idea. In the mean-time, I recommend looking up the DOT regulations on how the seat-belts must be mounted. Ensure you are using approved and tested belts, they are mounting using frame grade hardware, and you add a large diameter big strong steel plate under the flooring of the vehicle to which they are mounted. Please do it properly and safely! Thanks, Ggg
Gregg, Generally speaking, what does a basic conversion of a Volvo 730/780 converted to a single rear axle and space for a side mount smart car with aluminum ramps (no hydraulic loading) cost? I’m sure others would find this information valuable also. Are we talking 20-30K? I’m not quite ready to move forward on my purchase? But I’m trying to establish a ballpark budget for the truck and upgrades, and it will most definitely come from you.
Hi and thanks for your question. With all the challenges of covid resulting in fluctuating pricing on steel and parts my overall pricing is a moving target. I am super-hesitant to put up a sample $ figure that might be too high, or too low and disappoint future viewers. I am sorry you are hesitating to call, but I would love to share that with you in a format that gives you comfort and puts your mind at ease. I have email and phone options available down in the video description. There is no obligation or cost associated should you feel you want to email me or call me. Please, stay safe, happy and healthy, Gregg
1st rate and I need a new mid roof horse hauler instead of a dually, this time around, so I have an overnight sleeper birth to haul from Southern USA to Western Canada and back.
Hi Tim, all of the RVHaulers we build have autoshift transmissions. To get a good idea of pricing ranges, you can see different units (past and present) on our website inventory page. Here is a quick link to see pricing: www.rvhaulers.ca/inventory/
Hi Gregg! Thank you for your videos...Im doing my own conversion on a 2007 freightliner (Columbia) 10 spd manual but I keep going back and forth with removing the middle axle or leaving it. Couple questions... I will be towing a 42 foot toy hauler of which I want to use for snowmobiling but I keep going back and forth in regards to losing traction in the snow by getting rid of that axle. Seems like the majority of truckers I talk to say I'll lose a bit of traction on snowy roads... I live in Central Oregon but I would think you guys experience much more snow then we do but what's your opinion on the issue? Also, by taking out that middle axle you're having to lengthen the driveline... do you ever run into any problems with that and are you sending those out or just buying new drive lines? Sorry for the lengthy post and thx again for your videos!
Hi Paul. You are talking to truckers - who have significant trailer pin weights. You don't have tens of thousands of pounds pushing downward on your hitch. Traction. I have proven in side by side tests that a single rear axle has superior traction in pavement, snowy, grassy and gravel conditions. I have had people with their dual axle RVHaulers here in my campground in various wet, snowy, or icy scenarios. My yard has some very gentle undulations, lumps and bumps. They have tried to backup their trailers, and gotten horribly stuck, chewed up grass, and spun tires on ice/snow. I have had to unhook them from their trailers in-place, and I winch them out. Then, I backup unaided to their trailer with my single rear axle RVHauler, connect, and back them up into the site, or drive out. I have done this probably 12 times in the past few years just in my yard. I have always won. In every case, the tandem axle RVHaulers had full lockers. Every tire (all 8) spinning back there. WHY? We have extremely little pin weight pushing down on the drive tires (perhaps 3000 - 5000 lbs). The coefficient of friction requires downward force. I have many more small details that I can share with you should you wish to explore this further, and I would suggest you call me to learn more if interested. Regarding driveshafts - we try to re-use as much as we can, and rebuild them. Starting from scratch doesn't make sense when you have a few thousand dollars in good parts sitting there. Suggestion - Call me if you have questions! I am always happy to hear about your RVHauler plans, and share a few minutes of information that might help save you hours of research. Thanks for the great questions! Gregg
Thank you Gregg for replying! I'll give you a ring soon to pick your brain about a couple things. Thank you so much again for your time and great, informative videos 😊
Do you have a build for carrying a 2 door Jeep piggyback instead of a SmartCar? That is, still able to haul an RV 5th wheel, but with a Jeep. I’ve found a few photos of people doing this, but no videos.
Gregg, First let me say I’m intrigued by the concept of using an HDT to haul an RV. So to be clear, I’m in the research phase. . . or more appropriately stated, I’m in the satisfying curiosity stage. With that said, what platform (truck) would you start with to build a Jeep carrying RV hauler. Me just spit wadding some numbers, if we were to take a Volvo 670, we’re talking 14’ 6” (roughly) to the back of the cab. Leave out any storage boxes and tuck the nose of my 2dr Jeep Jk in - @13’ 6” - and we are now 28’ from the front truck bumper to the back of the Jeep. Add to that another say 4’ 6” to the pin location ( to accommodate the trailer at a 90 degree jack knife) and we’re up to 32’ 6”, and we’re not to the back of the truck yet. I’m estimating at least another 18”, that gives our HDT Hauler an over all length 34’. Am I doing this right? Would I be better off starting with a different platform. Maybe something with a smaller sleeper or shorter cab. Maybe a VNL 400?
Hey Gregg how are you doing. I've seen a few of your videos again and its good to hear you out there again. I believe you might remember who I am. I have a question for you. What hitch are you using now a days? It's always been somewhat of a contention but all the players have changed now and I am now back at square one deciding on what I would use if I were to do this all again.Hope to see you out here more often.Love seeing what you do.
Hi Norm!!!!! Great to hear from you. I am installing Comfort Ride Hitches, and ET Hitches. They both have advantages and VERY few disadvantages. Now, you want me to say which of the two???? They both get the job done. In order to pick the right hitch, there are a number of due-diligence questions we have to work through to ensure the solution is a sound one. I will always welcome a call from you! Thanks for your comment, and continued support of the Heavy Duty Truck crowd!
@@rvhaulers Thanks for the reply. I haven't gotten deep into either sense the changes and know there have been some changes/improvements. I was just seeking your expertise knowing you were probably more in tune with them all. we will have to give you a call sometime soon to see how things are going. Great to hear from you and thanks for the response.
For an estimate, what does it cost on top of the price of the truck for a conversion like this? I’m looking at eventually upgrading from my 2020 F3 50 King Ranch to an HDT in the next few years.
Hi there and thanks for taking the time to pose your question. I have quite a few of my past builds and their pricing on my website in the inventory section. You can see the range of pricing there starting at $60,00 and up depending on age, and features. I also have all my phone numbers and emails in the description below. I really welcome folks to call me to talk more about what they need, and I can quickly put together pricing. Thanks, Gregg
Hi Gary. Yes, with the Smart Car scenario in the marketplace, we are seeing more and more folks moving towards carrying the go-getter and fun vehicles length-wise on the bed. To accomodate the weight of two door Jeep it almost ALWAYS results in a two rear axle solution rather than the single rear axles you see planned in this particular video. Length-wise Jeep? You bet!
Why do we “single” an RVHauler? (Some of the reasons a customer might have us remove an axle). NOTE: it is a customer choice - some RVHaulers are left with two rear axles. 1. Every individual state has their own rules, however one rear axle can often be classified as a motorhome. Titling as a motorhome results in far cheaper insurance, and registration costs. If it has two rear axles, it is often considered a commercial vehicle, and the insurance is about $3000+ per year. One rear axle, the insurance is about $900 per year. This is dependent on where you live. Sometimes you can have it titled as a “personal truck” when it still has two rear axles. 2. Perhaps an even stronger reason for singling the rear is the impact it has on the required operator’s license. A single rear axle can be driven with a standard driver’s license in most locations. A three axle truck requires a commercial driver’s license in most cases. 3. Make it a motorhome, and you don’t have to maintain a driver’s log, annual commercial safety inspections, or stop at weigh scales ever. 4. Better fuel mileage. There is less weight, road friction, and steel rotating. 5. Far better turning radius than your pickup. Two axles tend to “scrub” or grab the road surface, and it makes campground maneuverability more challenging. 6. Nicer (smoother) ride. 7. Results in a shorter rig overall. If you leave the tandem axles, we often have an RVHauler that is 3 feet longer overall. 8. Lower maintenance and repair costs (fewer tires, brakes, etc) 9. Increases your resale value - when you are ready to sell, it REALLY increases the value when there is a single rear axle. 10. Allows for more storage boxes under the bed/deck. 11. Some folks like the looks of a single rear axle. Visually it becomes more of an RV rather than a commercial truck.
Hello John, The 5th wheel hitch cannot be placed above the axles. The resultant hitch height is far too high, (by about a foot) and your trailer will not be level. Tires on the rear axle of your trailer will be taking more load, resulting in perhaps tire failure, and premature tire wear. I have many hours of engineering behind the designs and placement of the hitch rear-ward of the rear axle. I have weighed individual axles in the most extreme cases. I have a customer with a 9,000 lb pin weight. Placing this trailer on the 5th wheel hitch placed in our position behind the axle results in an offload of 720 lbs on the front axle. Considering the front axle has 11,000 lbs on it to start with, this off-load is negligible. The more average customer trailer with a 5,000 lb pin weight, lifts about 480 lbs off the front axle. Also, this position allows for easier and more maneuverable trailer backing up. The trailer responds like a bumper pull trailer when backing into a campsite. This hitch position also provides for more space on the optional deck for the toys! Great question thanks! Gregg
Thanks for the question Richard. We have often moved fuel tanks when warranted. It is not a question of access, but instead we have needed the space that might be occupied by a tank. When we build one of our Phoenix hydraulic loaders, we have to move a tank and relocate the filler neck every time.
Hello, we sell over 90% of our units to folks in the US. We have been doing this for 12 years, and we have the process down to a science. Our units are all titled as motorhomes when they leave our yard. The title says nothing but "passenger use" and "motorhome". There are no duties or taxes paid at the border when they head south to warmer climates! You are buying an out-of-state motorhome that was originally built in a US factory that meets all the US EPA and safety standards. AND, we deliver!!! Thanks for the great question! Gregg
Hello Chuck, Usually NO CDL! As a dealership, I am able to re-title these units as motorhomes. In most all instances, all you need is a standard drivers license to tow an RV type of trailer with electric or hydraulic brakes. You often need to get an air endorsement (take a 1-2 day course) on how the air brakes work.
Hello and thanks for the question. To "single" into an RVHauler (remove an axle) costs in the $6800 range. Then, we add the bed (deck), sometimes fancy options, and a rv cushioning hitch. Those are very variable in price. A basic and fully functional smart car bed can cost in the $18,000 and up range. The hitches are in the $5000 and up range. Options such as chrome, and lights can add to that pricing as well. I hope that answers your questions. Keep the questions coming any time!
Gregg. You guys do some awesome work, friend! Love your work on these iron horses... Love your content!
Thanks for taking the time to share a kind comment! I appreciate it.
Thanks, Gregg
Greg, it is great to see you back to building those great haulers again, really love the 730. ONE DAY......
Fingers crossed! You know how to find me!
I'll keep looking for the caller ID that says Larry is calling!
Gregg, We never once fell for that "retirement" story. May the truck builds and videos continue!
Hi Mark! Thanks for you continued support. What would you like to see more of?
Ggg
Glad to see you back. Keep up with your integrity. We never doubted it for a moment. Love the Canadian content. The old school guy.
Hi Dan! Thank you for the nice comment!
Do you like the picturesque "White Canadian Sands" in my video? Is that the Canadian content you refer to? Or is it the Canadian accent eh?
Thanks, Gregg
Can't wait to see your 2021 projects in process!
Thanks for the message and the comment!
Gregg
@@rvhaulers You're Welcome!
Awesome video glad to have you back making movies. All your trucks are awesome. I love your all your trucks, wish I had one. For me the building and fabrication is fun to watch
Hello Marchal! Thanks for your continued support and interest in our RVHaulers. Hope you are somewhere warm these days!
@@rvhaulers yes i am here in Phoenix Arizona its a balmy 51 degrees and going to a hi of 70
Welcome back great to see you again.
Hey, thanks!
Nice to see your return..more videos please. Hopefully I'll drop by for a purchase one day. (Your neighbor from British Columbia)👋🇨🇦🇬🇧🇺🇸👋
We like visitors!
Someday I’ll be buying one of those rigs!! Love them so much! As a professional trucker I would love to pull my camper with a semi tractor
Hi Adam, I'm ready to make one for you any time. I am always excited to work with professional drivers that know all about towing safely. Drive safe driver!
Gregg
Glad to see your videos coming back
Glad you like them!
Gregg RVHaulers
You are so good on camera! Thanks for being back. I didn't know you were here again.
Thank you so much! Thanks for watching David.
Hope you folks are staying happy and healthy.
Good stuff!! I really enjoy these videos! It's cool to see what others pull their rvs with and how you do your conversions! This is a cool option!! I drive commercial in the U.S. If i could ever afford to do it my choice of semi would be a Volvo VNL 400 with a flat top roof.
I completely follow your idea Gordon. The looks of the lower height sleeper model 400 are sharp when towing our 5th wheels. And, the sleeper is shorter too, keeping the overall rig length down. Thanks for the comment!
Gregg, good to see you back. Enjoy watching your videos.
Hi Paul, and it is great to have continued to be interested! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gregg
Good to see you making videos again
Hey, thanks!
Gregg
WOW! Good to see you again. It's been awhile. Welcome back.
Hi Tipsy and Friends! That work-stuff gets in the way of making videos sometimes. When you have a yard-full of customer commitments staring at you each morning, those take priority over editing videos.
Thanks for taking the time to say hi!
Using an HDT to tow a 5th wheel is very appealing! I've seen them set up to hold smart cars or older CanAms. I'm wondering if there is an option to hold 1 or 2 new (2020-2021) 111.5 inch long CanAm Spyders? And..still tow a 5th wheel? If not this is still on the short list. We would plan on a toy hauler. Thank you in advance! Have a great day!
Hi Catherine, I am always excited to take care of the custom needs of my customers. Two of the older Spyders have been done! Those are on the Watt's rig which I originally built named 'Snick'.
I'd be happy to figure something out for the longer ones.
I would welcome you to call me to chat about it. My cell number and toll free numbers are on my website at www.rvhaulers.ca
Hey I would like to like to see a Volvo that has a extended sleeper or rv unit with room for one canam spyder. Might have to have the extended bed because I am wanting to see hdt's thT have a sleeper large enough to live in without pulling a fifth wheel or trailer. Love the videos.
I'll be interested to see how the T680 comes out. They are nice trucks and very suitable for RV use!
Hi Jack. Good to hear from you and Happy New Year. Thanks for the comment.
I am excited that folks have discovered we have no FET in Canada! It is almost like getting a smart car bed for free with the taxes my customers save!
@@rvhaulers FET is definately an issue. I would be careful about importing a CND new truck though. I'd want to be absolutely sure that FET is not due on that importation. But if it is not that is a great thing.
Welcome back and happy and prosperous new year. Kc
Hello! Thanks for the continued support, and stay happy and healthy up there!
Hi Gregg,
Glad to see you back in action, love watching your videos, very informative. I hope 1 day I can dream about owing a HDT to pull my dream trailer-lol. But on a serious note, my ? for you is, where do you get these trucks? Do you buy them at an auction or do you go on the internet & see what’s for sale? Just curious. Thanks & keep doing the great work on these videos & those big rigs.
Hello Tim, and thanks for the great question. I never buy trucks from an auction. I only buy trucks for my customers where I have owner-operator history, and have the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and do our due diligence. I don't like stress! I want to know how the truck was maintained, what has been fixed, and how it was treated and used. The only way to buy one in my opinion is from an individual you can meet, and even go for a drive with.
Wonderful to see a new video. Must have some awfully short moose up there
They are like a cow on stilts! And they taste really good too!
@@rvhaulers yes, but what does a bumper way down at its knees do? Looks like it would just conveniently put the moose in your lap
Glad to see you back. Keep putting out some great videos thank you
More to come! Thanks for the support and comment Jim!
Gregg
Great to see a new video, love to see a HDT with a Jeep on the flatbed, or what else clients do with that huge space besides loading a Smarty....be safe,
We can make the flat bed almost any size/length you want. Want a sand rail? Couple ATVs? Two motorcycles? A Jeep? A car? I'll do that for you.
Turn one of them into an complete RV. Self contained
I thought your business was closed and no-longer producing new haulers. Glad to see your back at it.
Howdy Inverted H! We are still going strong here in the shop! We continue to be so honored that folks have the trust to come to us with their project wishes.
Thanks for watching my videos, and please stay happy and healthy.
Greg, do you have a video of the install of seatbelts in the VNL work station? I have a 2013 730 and I’d like to add them as well.
Thank you!
Hello Adventurers!
I don't have a video for that topic (yet). Thanks for the suggestion on a new video idea. In the mean-time, I recommend looking up the DOT regulations on how the seat-belts must be mounted. Ensure you are using approved and tested belts, they are mounting using frame grade hardware, and you add a large diameter big strong steel plate under the flooring of the vehicle to which they are mounted. Please do it properly and safely!
Thanks, Ggg
Gregg,
Generally speaking, what does a basic conversion of a Volvo 730/780 converted to a single rear axle and space for a side mount smart car with aluminum ramps (no hydraulic loading) cost? I’m sure others would find this information valuable also. Are we talking 20-30K? I’m not quite ready to move forward on my purchase? But I’m trying to establish a ballpark budget for the truck and upgrades, and it will most definitely come from you.
Hi and thanks for your question. With all the challenges of covid resulting in fluctuating pricing on steel and parts my overall pricing is a moving target. I am super-hesitant to put up a sample $ figure that might be too high, or too low and disappoint future viewers. I am sorry you are hesitating to call, but I would love to share that with you in a format that gives you comfort and puts your mind at ease.
I have email and phone options available down in the video description. There is no obligation or cost associated should you feel you want to email me or call me.
Please, stay safe, happy and healthy,
Gregg
Glad to see new videos!! Keep it up!!
Thanks! Will do!
Happy New Year Brandon.
Gregg
I am in the planning stage at the moment. I really like the looks of the Mack Anthem. Do you think you could convert one ?
1st rate and I need a new mid roof horse hauler instead of a dually, this time around, so I have an overnight sleeper birth to haul from Southern USA to Western Canada and back.
We have done that! We are doing that now!
AND I'd love to do that for you!
Call us toll free at (877) 631-0060. I'm the guy that answers the phone!
Can you take a Freighliner FL 80 4 door fire truck and convert that to an RV hauler?
I love the work you do. What is the price range with an automatic Transmissions
Hi Tim, all of the RVHaulers we build have autoshift transmissions. To get a good idea of pricing ranges, you can see different units (past and present) on our website inventory page.
Here is a quick link to see pricing:
www.rvhaulers.ca/inventory/
Welcome back Bud.
Hi Bill! Thanks for the kind welcome! Sometimes all this fun work on RVHaulers gets in the way of making videos!
Great update. It's been a while. Are the searbelts being installed on the workstation seats? If side facing, is that truly safe for passengers?
Great question John. Nice to see your name again! I only install forward facing passenger solutions.
Thanks for taking the time to pose that question!
Hi Gregg! Thank you for your videos...Im doing my own conversion on a 2007 freightliner (Columbia) 10 spd manual but I keep going back and forth with removing the middle axle or leaving it. Couple questions... I will be towing a 42 foot toy hauler of which I want to use for snowmobiling but I keep going back and forth in regards to losing traction in the snow by getting rid of that axle. Seems like the majority of truckers I talk to say I'll lose a bit of traction on snowy roads... I live in Central Oregon but I would think you guys experience much more snow then we do but what's your opinion on the issue? Also, by taking out that middle axle you're having to lengthen the driveline... do you ever run into any problems with that and are you sending those out or just buying new drive lines? Sorry for the lengthy post and thx again for your videos!
Hi Paul.
You are talking to truckers - who have significant trailer pin weights.
You don't have tens of thousands of pounds pushing downward on your hitch.
Traction. I have proven in side by side tests that a single rear axle has superior traction in pavement, snowy, grassy and gravel conditions. I have had people with their dual axle RVHaulers here in my campground in various wet, snowy, or icy scenarios. My yard has some very gentle undulations, lumps and bumps. They have tried to backup their trailers, and gotten horribly stuck, chewed up grass, and spun tires on ice/snow. I have had to unhook them from their trailers in-place, and I winch them out. Then, I backup unaided to their trailer with my single rear axle RVHauler, connect, and back them up into the site, or drive out. I have done this probably 12 times in the past few years just in my yard. I have always won. In every case, the tandem axle RVHaulers had full lockers. Every tire (all 8) spinning back there. WHY? We have extremely little pin weight pushing down on the drive tires (perhaps 3000 - 5000 lbs). The coefficient of friction requires downward force. I have many more small details that I can share with you should you wish to explore this further, and I would suggest you call me to learn more if interested.
Regarding driveshafts - we try to re-use as much as we can, and rebuild them. Starting from scratch doesn't make sense when you have a few thousand dollars in good parts sitting there.
Suggestion - Call me if you have questions! I am always happy to hear about your RVHauler plans, and share a few minutes of information that might help save you hours of research.
Thanks for the great questions!
Gregg
Thank you Gregg for replying! I'll give you a ring soon to pick your brain about a couple things. Thank you so much again for your time and great, informative videos 😊
you're work is amazing
Thank you very much Matthew!
@@rvhaulers you’re welcome
Do you have a build for carrying a 2 door Jeep piggyback instead of a SmartCar? That is, still able to haul an RV 5th wheel, but with a Jeep.
I’ve found a few photos of people doing this, but no videos.
Absolutely yes! We can and do build beds a bit longer, to accommodate loading a Jeep length-wise.
Gregg,
First let me say I’m intrigued by the concept of using an HDT to haul an RV. So to be clear, I’m in the research phase. . . or more appropriately stated, I’m in the satisfying curiosity stage.
With that said, what platform (truck) would you start with to build a Jeep carrying RV hauler.
Me just spit wadding some numbers, if we were to take a Volvo 670, we’re talking 14’ 6” (roughly) to the back of the cab. Leave out any storage boxes and tuck the nose of my 2dr Jeep Jk in - @13’ 6” - and we are now 28’ from the front truck bumper to the back of the Jeep. Add to that another say 4’ 6” to the pin location ( to accommodate the trailer at a 90 degree jack knife) and we’re up to 32’ 6”, and we’re not to the back of the truck yet. I’m estimating at least another 18”, that gives our HDT Hauler an over all length 34’. Am I doing this right?
Would I be better off starting with a different platform. Maybe something with a smaller sleeper or shorter cab. Maybe a VNL 400?
Hey Gregg how are you doing. I've seen a few of your videos again and its good to hear you out there again. I believe you might remember who I am. I have a question for you. What hitch are you using now a days? It's always been somewhat of a contention but all the players have changed now and I am now back at square one deciding on what I would use if I were to do this all again.Hope to see you out here more often.Love seeing what you do.
Hi Norm!!!!! Great to hear from you. I am installing Comfort Ride Hitches, and ET Hitches. They both have advantages and VERY few disadvantages. Now, you want me to say which of the two???? They both get the job done. In order to pick the right hitch, there are a number of due-diligence questions we have to work through to ensure the solution is a sound one. I will always welcome a call from you!
Thanks for your comment, and continued support of the Heavy Duty Truck crowd!
@@rvhaulers Thanks for the reply. I haven't gotten deep into either sense the changes and know there have been some changes/improvements. I was just seeking your expertise knowing you were probably more in tune with them all. we will have to give you a call sometime soon to see how things are going. Great to hear from you and thanks for the response.
For an estimate, what does it cost on top of the price of the truck for a conversion like this? I’m looking at eventually upgrading from my 2020 F3 50 King Ranch to an HDT in the next few years.
Hi there and thanks for taking the time to pose your question. I have quite a few of my past builds and their pricing on my website in the inventory section. You can see the range of pricing there starting at $60,00 and up depending on age, and features. I also have all my phone numbers and emails in the description below. I really welcome folks to call me to talk more about what they need, and I can quickly put together pricing.
Thanks, Gregg
Very nice, as always. Have you made a bed to haul a vehicle to carry 4 passengers such as a 2 door jeep?
Hi Gary. Yes, with the Smart Car scenario in the marketplace, we are seeing more and more folks moving towards carrying the go-getter and fun vehicles length-wise on the bed. To accomodate the weight of two door Jeep it almost ALWAYS results in a two rear axle solution rather than the single rear axles you see planned in this particular video.
Length-wise Jeep? You bet!
Gregg I know if it's possible to make a doors on the bottom of the tool box on the back of truck with smart car there.
Hi Marty,
I don't quite follow your question. Perhaps you can call me, and I can answer your question.
Ggg
Im new to all this. What's the perpuse of removing wheels. Aren't you losing the tow capacity by removing a full row of tires ans axles
Why do we “single” an RVHauler? (Some of the reasons a customer might have us remove an axle).
NOTE: it is a customer choice - some RVHaulers are left with two rear axles.
1. Every individual state has their own rules, however one rear axle can often be classified as a motorhome. Titling as a motorhome results in far cheaper insurance, and registration costs. If it has two rear axles, it is often considered a commercial vehicle, and the insurance is about $3000+ per year. One rear axle, the insurance is about $900 per year. This is dependent on where you live. Sometimes you can have it titled as a “personal truck” when it still has two rear axles.
2. Perhaps an even stronger reason for singling the rear is the impact it has on the required operator’s license. A single rear axle can be driven with a standard driver’s license in most locations. A three axle truck requires a commercial driver’s license in most cases.
3. Make it a motorhome, and you don’t have to maintain a driver’s log, annual commercial safety inspections, or stop at weigh scales ever.
4. Better fuel mileage. There is less weight, road friction, and steel rotating.
5. Far better turning radius than your pickup. Two axles tend to “scrub” or grab the road surface, and it makes campground maneuverability more challenging.
6. Nicer (smoother) ride.
7. Results in a shorter rig overall. If you leave the tandem axles, we often have an RVHauler that is 3 feet longer overall.
8. Lower maintenance and repair costs (fewer tires, brakes, etc)
9. Increases your resale value - when you are ready to sell, it REALLY increases the value when there is a single rear axle.
10. Allows for more storage boxes under the bed/deck.
11. Some folks like the looks of a single rear axle. Visually it becomes more of an RV rather than a commercial truck.
I have a question,,,; why do you put the fith wheel hitch behind the the axles instead of on top of it ??
Hello John,
The 5th wheel hitch cannot be placed above the axles. The resultant hitch height is far too high, (by about a foot) and your trailer will not be level. Tires on the rear axle of your trailer will be taking more load, resulting in perhaps tire failure, and premature tire wear.
I have many hours of engineering behind the designs and placement of the hitch rear-ward of the rear axle. I have weighed individual axles in the most extreme cases. I have a customer with a 9,000 lb pin weight. Placing this trailer on the 5th wheel hitch placed in our position behind the axle results in an offload of 720 lbs on the front axle. Considering the front axle has 11,000 lbs on it to start with, this off-load is negligible. The more average customer trailer with a 5,000 lb pin weight, lifts about 480 lbs off the front axle.
Also, this position allows for easier and more maneuverable trailer backing up. The trailer responds like a bumper pull trailer when backing into a campsite.
This hitch position also provides for more space on the optional deck for the toys!
Great question thanks!
Gregg
Gregg how about one you've had to move the fuel tanks in order to gain more rear space or better access?
Thanks for the question Richard. We have often moved fuel tanks when warranted. It is not a question of access, but instead we have needed the space that might be occupied by a tank. When we build one of our Phoenix hydraulic loaders, we have to move a tank and relocate the filler neck every time.
It's been a while .looks like you in canada . Seem's real cold .lol
We love the pristine white sands of Canada. (As long as you remember and follow how your mother used to dress you when you were young)
How difficult is it to get one of these into the US? I live in Oregon. What is the process to get it here and licensed?
Hello, we sell over 90% of our units to folks in the US. We have been doing this for 12 years, and we have the process down to a science. Our units are all titled as motorhomes when they leave our yard. The title says nothing but "passenger use" and "motorhome".
There are no duties or taxes paid at the border when they head south to warmer climates! You are buying an out-of-state motorhome that was originally built in a US factory that meets all the US EPA and safety standards. AND, we deliver!!!
Thanks for the great question!
Gregg
@@rvhaulers Outstanding Gregg, thank you!
@@rvhaulers Thanks for responding Greg. You might have another customer soon. I love your work and the way you do business.
Do you still need a CDL to operate once its converted ??
Hello Chuck,
Usually NO CDL!
As a dealership, I am able to re-title these units as motorhomes. In most all instances, all you need is a standard drivers license to tow an RV type of trailer with electric or hydraulic brakes. You often need to get an air endorsement (take a 1-2 day course) on how the air brakes work.
Know each one is different but about how much does it cost to convert a semi????
Hello and thanks for the question. To "single" into an RVHauler (remove an axle) costs in the $6800 range. Then, we add the bed (deck), sometimes fancy options, and a rv cushioning hitch. Those are very variable in price.
A basic and fully functional smart car bed can cost in the $18,000 and up range.
The hitches are in the $5000 and up range.
Options such as chrome, and lights can add to that pricing as well.
I hope that answers your questions. Keep the questions coming any time!
So when you add in the cost of purchasing the vehicle to the renovation costs, is conversion cheaper than purchasing new???
Used is FAR less expensive than new. As we just demonstrated, they can vary in price but a used one is likely priced at 50% to 60% of the new price.