Removing the Achilles heel on the Weber IDF
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- Опубликовано: 25 янв 2025
- Hello
Here I correct a mistake that Weber made on the IDF fuel circuits.
This will improve the drivability and turn the carbs into daily drivers.
The distance of the tip of the punch is 17mm deep.
My current jetting on this 2.0Liter Type 4 motor are:
IDF 44
Idles .50mm
Mains 1.25mm
Air correctors 1.75mm
Venturi 32mm
I expect the jets to change slightly
Thanks for all the r&d on the clone IDF jetting issues. Very helpful. Srsly, man, you're the only person really doing the work to make these carbs usable on the street. Very kewl sharing your family viddy with us. Looking fwd to the long term driveability results.
One of your best videos ever!! Very clear and instructive. Anxious to see how the mod works out over time. I think that it is really a wise choice to drive "as-is" for a while before making any jet changes or other "adjustments". I have always been a firm believer in making and verifying one change at a time. Glad to hear that you had a good (and safe) trip to Mexico.
Thank you
Been a while since I actually took an extra long vacation and actually enjoyed it.
Man, I've been having basically ALL of the issues you described in this video. I will be trying this. I will make a video on my progress on it and credit you on the video. Thank you so much! 😎😎
I'm pleased to report that so far this beta testing has gone perfect. There were no jetting changes made of any kind. The vehicle drives just like it did before we modified the circuits. With the added benefit that now when you start driving it just wants to go so driveability has gone from okay to excellent and it's actually very noticeable. Also there appears to be no fuel starvation when making hard turns at wide open throttle. The key being that you do not drill above 10 mm from the fuel bowl bottom. Now as far as the idles plugging up, in theory this should be a thing of the past. However it's only been about a week of beta testing. If I do go through a idle plugging situation I shall report it right here. But from what I can tell, these IDFs carburetors are now reliable daily drivers.
Sera
could you not achieve the same results by just drilling the holes and not messing with the plugs @ 10:30? you won't necessarily separate the circuits, but have enough volume to stop the stand off...?
I posted your channel on Instagram in hopes that more people will see your work ! Keep it up .
Thank you very much 👍
Looking at my None clone carbs they do not use galley plugs to close the port off . So I’m thinking taping the hole and Using a treaded galley plug . Might be over thinking it not real sure about it or using a dowel You can press in past the hole you drill for the new fuel inlet . Any thoughts ?
I have a customer watch this video. He went right ahead and did this mod. He then calls me and says its almost undriveable.
Ive had it here for two days and now this thing drives nice .
However, it now has emulsion tubes that look like theyve had a party with a 50 cal. A 240 air 😂 and check this out, 75 main. Yep i had to solder em up and lean them right out. 52 idle, could probably get as low down as a 48, still a hair rich part throttle
Afrs tip in 11s at 2k rpm wot then clean up to 12.4s from 3k all the way to the redline.
Engine is a 1915 , engle 120, vintage speed exhaust with cb 044s 40x35.5 mild port job. 34 mm vents. Genuine Weber 40idfs.
The craziest jetting combo ive ever come up with. A messed up f11 with messed up mains and airs.
Either my customer has completely screwed this up or its a case of it was never a problem .
Saludos, esto trabajo solo en Webber carburetor ? Grasias por tu tiempo👍
Great job! This looks like a genius modification! Thanks for sharing. Interested to hear the daily data. Might give this a try on my carbs also. Just concerned with any starvation in hard turns, as mine is on my buggy where we do a lot of off road trail riding. Where do you find long punches?
Thank you
Okay so far I've been driving this setup for about a week and all I can say I should have done this a long time ago. The drivability is amazing. As far as the punches they're from to harbor freight. The key here is after you drill your new drillings make sure the circuit is free of any aluminum shavings or you're going to blame the drillings not working for you. No jetting change at all and it runs perfect. Also drove it like I stole it because I wanted to know if I was going to have field starvation while making hard turns and all the gas hard nothing happened other than drivability just went through the roof.
@@Motor7710 This is great, I'm excited to try it. However I'm in Michigan and I won't be driving it for a few months, but I can't wait to try this out. Thanks again for posting this. I'll let you know how it works out for me.
I posted your video on samba and a couple other sites because I believe this modification has made Best improvement for the idf that can be done and quite simple if you take your time . a person on samba posted that Weber does have a version with dual circuits he is correct 44idf xe does . The hesitation is gone just like you stated!
I had no idea those idfs even existed
i need to get on there and post some pics of mine they are from spain and have the idle jets change from the top where you checked the vertical passage way
a local bug repair guy told they were old n not sell em cheap ????
ive got em on a not so pretty warrior rail chassis running a 74 bus
1.8 n 3 rib mostly sits in the yard 😒
i want to get it running good and take it to a offroad park near here and maybee try n get it street legal but TX was being dicks to vw rail guys on registration
This modification works on the 44 idf carburetors. The 40idf idle setup is different.
I've started doing this on one of my carbs. It's proving difficult cause there was no plug in the side of my carb. It wasn't drilled in the first place, so I had to drill it out.
Maybe a threaded screw for that bottom hole so that it could be used as a cleanout from debris settling to the bottom in there?
Update I did the modification Car runs amazing. This will be the new standard . The only thing I did is I treaded the passage with a 8/32 screw 3/4 long . Thanks again .
I'm glad you had the guts to do the mod.👍 It blew my mind when I did it to my IDFs.
Nice job 👍, which wide band you are using and where did you connect the sensor to on muffler or exhaust? Thanks, any help is greatly appreciate!
In using the AEM Uego. The probe sensor is right after the sidewinder collector before the muffler. Should be plenty of wire to reach the middle bottom of the dash. Good luck
I’m dealing with the same issue with a dune buggy. My question is, what if I drill the hole just as you did but I press the plug in. Let the mains and idle share the original pick up hole and new drilled hole. Little bits of rocks wouldn’t be able to be sucked up from the bottom since there is a new drilled hole. Make sense? Or did I miss somthing.
again thanks for sharing your indepth root cause reserch and testing
now i may be off but
for the guys with the plugs in the top verticle channel
could they drill the new bowl idle hole 1st then just
push the plug past the hole they drilled so they will be able to see the plug get pushed past the new hole
2nd possible idea if above will work
could you drill and drop a 3mm bb
thru newly drilled hole with locktight and push it down the passageway towards the main tie in cause even if it barley could "leaked" one side to the other with the newly drilled hole it really wouldnt cause nature is lazy and has a big hole to pull fuel from NOW
So i have a turbo 1776 that is blow thru with 44 idfs from amazon. And the main issue i have is that it goes insanely rich if im mildy accelerating without boost or even low boost like 3psi or less. But its good at high boost and high rpm. But is just way too rich on light to medium accelerating. And at 2000 rpm i have a spot that goes so roch you basically have to nurture it past 2k rpm and then it will be okay. Think thats also from fuel standoff? Or something else? In the vid you mention it when leaner than before slightly, where in the rpm range and under what throttle? Easiest way I can describe it is like the main circuit activates too early or too much on light acceleration. Because if I'm cruising at 2900 rpm I get a high 13s or low 14s afr. And also crusing at above 3000 is very rich. Youre probably the only one i know that has put this amount of research into these idfs and may have an answer, I know it's boosted and not NA but I figured I'd ask
Interesting video. Thanks for the insight!
Are you drilling both holes in the float bowl and the other circuit or???
Each throttle has a single idle circuit so the answer is we're making two holes on opposite sides of the fuel bowl. But when in doubt what I do is I watch videos over and over until I get it so you might want to watch the video again. Good luck 😊
How far in do you need the punch to go...a inch or??.might help .. also how long is your rivet for plugging it up???
17mm deep
The plug is about 4mm long
What size of a drill bit are you using to make the hole in the bowl? Going to modify mine this weekend. Thanks.
Finished my mod. If anyone is wondering, I used a 3mm bit in the Dremel. Now to install them and see what happens. Hoping for good results.
Why not just keep the carburetors clean and you do not have to drill?
The goal of this was to eliminate the fuel standoff. (idle circuit and main circuit fighting for fuel at the same location in the bowl) not just clogging
@@napier630 the idle and main circuits will transition as soon as you crack the throttle plate. They do not rob each other. 1200 rpm and you draw fuel from the main jet.
Thanks for the comment. For me I don't ever want to spend any of my valuable time cleaning carbs. Nobody should.
As for AFR be sure you have the proper distributor (not a centrifugal only) distributor. At part throttle conditions there is nothing wrong with 15-17afr so long as you have the added advance to help the lean burn. No lean tuning with a centrifugal only distributor. At WOT you want to see ~12:4 afr (+ / -.4)
Puro Sinaloa!
Just you know, someone posted this video on the samba forums.
Had no idea
Thanks
It was me .
@@darrenlocke It doesn't matter who posted the video. Just wanted to let Sera know about it. He might like to read the comments also.
thesamba is assho
Would u be interested in doing my carbs if u sent them to you w/$$$$???
I wish I could but as a truck driver I just don't have that kind of time. It's not as difficult as it looks. However if you ever do decide to do this yourself make sure the circuits are extra clean from an aluminum shavings or those things are going to give you a headache. Not only that but once you get it running correctly you will never regret the modification.
Good luck
Why hasn't the Weber pros, on thesamba or other websites done this upgrade yet? Keep us posted on how it works out. Can't believe you drill holes inside your IDF's.😲😲
I really can't answer that why thesamba is not up to it. To me this is common sense That's just the way my mind works. But anyways this is probably one of the best modifications I've ever done on the IDF. But again I'm still beta testing.
@@Motor7710 Thanks for making the video. Let us know how it works out.
👍
En español por favor.
You're over thinking the IDF jet/s...One spends most time driving on the idle circuit vs the main. If you require fast heavy throttle the main combined with the proper accel squirt along with the correct distributor advance is what will define whether or not you have hesitation. The fuel ports themselves are not small enough to plug with dirt. It is the idle jet itself that will plug up. The number 1 reason for plugged idle jet is none other....Air filter and/or filter assembly. With a 2L T-4 your jetting should be with 28mm vents....47.5 idle, 120 mains, F-11 tubes 190-200 air corr. jets (fuel pressure critical no more than 3.5psi) and float height 10-11mm (gasket in place ball NOT depressed).