How to use junk wood like a pro, a DIY cheap-o guide to woodworking
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- Ready to take your woodworking skills to the next level? In this video, I'll teach you how to make a router jig that's both easy to use and highly effective at correcting warped lumber. With cheap tools and beginner friendly techniques, you'll be able to create a professional and smooth finish that's perfect for any project.
My name is One, I'm an engineer based in Europe. I am fascinated by woodcraft and joinery, but I feel like I always needed one more tool to get started. Not any more. I can get started with Japanese joinery, confident that any error I will make will be because of my own incompetence as opposed to my materials.
Enjoy,
--One
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This is cool and all. I want to do it sometime, but I’m going to give my jointer a thankful pat.
Yeah, hope to get one oneday
Good video . Carpentry is a learning curve and you are always gaining experience . This technique has its flaws but at least you thought it thru . The Japanese saw looks great - I've never used one in all my years , so thanks for showing me . 🇬🇧
Thanks! Quite hard to work with the japanese saw but after a while you get the hang of it, just made a video on joinery, got a lot of practice from that project :D
Seems I got deleted, try again….. Good luck dude. You may reinspire me to get back into it. I burned out after a 4 month dining table build, my first ever. The wood presented so many challenges with warp and twist and sap! Moisture content was 6% which is excellent but still had problems. And similar to yourself I MacGyver’d so many solutions since I don’t have large equipment. In the end it was satisfying to deliver it but it took a strain on my life, it was all done after work and weekends. But you seem pretty keen on doing this and clever to spot issues. And you started a channel! I’ve subscribed, Have fun!
Thanks buddy, yeah same with me I work 8-4, the hardest part of any project is finding a schedule in which to do it.
Regarding 3:03. At this point I have a drill press, but I would still use the hand drill not only for pieces that big, but for cutting holes with that kind of bit. However, you did make a great point about lacking the tools to be precise. It was my biggest hurdle by far.
Yeah i suppose the wobble in the drill bit helps to cut it gradually and not all at once
Keep at it 👍
Thanks, will do !
Thank you
Cheers, thanks for watching !
The old timey way to flatten wood was to use a hand plane.
I know, you're trying to use what you have.
Consider buying an old used plane.
I don't knew much about it so I suggest you see Rex Krueger's channel.
He shows how-to choose, buy, use planes, winding sticks, & other early woodworking tools.
His 'woodworking for humans' series covers very simple but effective tools & techniques.
My 'projects' never need that kind of fit & finish, being more green woodworking style.
But I'm sure many others benefit from Rex's well-thought out videos.
His "Flat In 5 Steps" video shows how-to flatten & square a board in 5 steps & 25 minutes.
Well worth the time, IMO.
He also has many videos about doing things very inexpensively, too.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Thanks partner, will check it out, hope to see you around !
Ah the hand plane rabbit hole. A deceptively simple seeming tool that can take a surprisingly long time to master. Learning how to sharpen properly is a quest itself. Most of the jokers on RUclips are clowns about that. Hollow grinding with a bench grinder and using a guide on a diamond plate is the only way to fly in this day and age. Skip all of that just freehand honing with stones nonsense. Or waste your time to gain an appreciation for the right way to do things.
Instead of screwing down the board itself- wich in your case changed the amount of warp, I'd rather put little wedges under the board until it doesn't wiggle anymore. Then screw some stop blocks - both ends front and back and the sides as well - into the "base" the board is resting on. Some additional wedges between the board and the stop blocks may come in handy to fill the gaps between the board and the stop blocks, thus making it stable. As a bonus you don't lose the end peaces of the board. A collection of several wedges (for the stop blocks) in different sizes allow for processing boards with different measurements in width, As a side note: in the long run there is no getting around a good Jack plane - preferably a 5 ½. It' s a true lifesaver for this kind of work-) Oh, and at least a pair of self-made winding sticks too.
Wow thanks for the input, really appreciate it, I didnt know about winding sticks, but they are on the list of stuff I need to get now... Instead of wedges I was thinking of using machinist shims. But the most important fix as you have stated is replacing the screws, probably gonna use some T channel clamps, since imo they are versatile for any project, and I have some alu extrusions lying around for a better base.
@@hefestodesign Whichever method you use, as long as it doesn't change the original warp of the board, you'll be fine. Otherwise it will spring back again after unclamping.
Keep going on. The warp may be due to bending the wood with your screws.
Try to avoid the screws. You do not want to route into them. at least add stop blocks for the jig.
Use wedges or an excenter clamp to clamp horizontally.
I remember starting out as you did except without a router.
The thing i whish i had earlier was a vacuum.
Also buy few but really good tools. Get used machines and sell them if you do not like them.
Also build jig for everything. The precision is in the jig.
Really great tips, thanks buddy!
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Have you ever heard of a hand plane?
Yep, thanks for the suggestion, I think this is good alternative for my beginner projects :D
As a long time woodworker this is very cringe to watch. There are many ways to mill a board flat and square, this is not one of them. You have lots of poor advice and techniques here. First, it's a myth you need to spend a lot on tools to get into woodworking. You have put together a complete set of used hand tools that you can do 95% of everything you'd ever need to do for ~$500 USD and practice. In this case all you'd need is a jack plane for this job and you could hand plane something this small flat in a few minutes. On the power tool side you don't need a jointer, you could buy a cheap lunch box planer, you can buy them new for $300 and half that used, and a use a planer sled. This is a really bad router-sled(ish) video. Router sleds make sense for large slabs or end grain, not small boards like this. You need to flatten the whole board. The way it's done here with screws doesn't leave you a flat reference surface. Milling is not just about getting the sides flat, you also need to get the other side parallel to the first and one straight edge 90 degrees to the face. Also, use the right router bit here. Alternatively, just go to your local hardwood dealer and have them do the milling for you if you don't have the tools. Wood is far less expensive than you think, or what you can get at your local big box store, especially this little of it. A local woodworker can tell you where the hardwood dealers are in your area, they always exist even if it might be a little bit of a trip. Recycled wood has its place but garbage in garbage out. Pallets, construction lumber, etc are not as stable, don't finish well, and are limiting in what you can build with them. Some projects that might be fine, usually it's not worth the hassle.
Hey, thanks for the input, trying to improve one step at a time. Definitely can promise more cringey content as I fumble my way along the woodworking journey. If you're interested in my progress follow along :D
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Um they have these things called hand planes been used for a very long time and they are cheaper than a router you just have to develop skill ......
Yeah mate, one step at a time, this works for now so im gonna stick with it for a while
@@hefestodesign Using a hand plane just sucks. Perhaps someone that has developed the skill over 40 years might be able to pull it off, but without that skill, you will never get it flat. Using your method, you will. It is better to use shims and hot glue to stabilize the board though. This also allows you to do the full length of the board.
May I suggest another, maybe even cheaper, solution? Buy a handplane.
Thanks for the input, definitely on the list of things i need to buy. I know i can get a flat surface with a handplane, but I find it difficult to understand how to use a handplane to correct coplanar angle difference between the two sides of the lumber, which is the main purpose of the jig i built.
@@hefestodesign with coplanar angle you mean a twist in the board? just plane diagonally across the board from high spot to highspot
@@MrKrikkefy yep, thanks for the tip!
@@hefestodesign Check out Rex Krueger's video on how to prepare boards with a hand plane. I think you'll find it useful. Rex Krueger - Get flat boards EVERY TIME with this simple process. // Handtool stock-prep. ruclips.net/video/Iie5XHNZcOY/видео.html
@@MrKrikkefy the linear rail routing system he built in the video is for thicknessing. That'd come only after you plane one side flat. But you can't match the flatness on the other side with just the hand plane. Like you can plane one side flat, but the other side will still be warped. The board won't have an even thickness. Coplanar just means that both sides of the board are not only flat, but parallel. It's why thickness planers exist