Hey, I know this video has been out for a while but I just wanted to mention something. Before the bolt gets tightened where control arm meets chassis, the car either needs to be on the ground or use a jack to lift the hub so the weight of the car has loaded the suspension then tighten the bolt. This way the rubber will not be stretched to its limit at ride height. Love watching your videos so keep up the good work.
Joseph Grace thanks for mentioning that part I'm getting ready to do this on my car, any tips on redoing all the suspension components in one shot, I was thinking of just buying the set for about $700 or so and tackling it in a day since I don't have a lift I'm renting space at a garage for a few hours
18:45 This lever must be completely spinning when the car is on wheels. Otherwise, a silent block quickly deteriorate. 22:10 This lever is also needed on wheels spinning.
Great video! It helps me a lot. My x5 has a wird knock in the suspension and also when driving in hway has like a small vibration on wheel. after I inspected the right side of my car suspension I noticed the same problem the sway bar and the lower forward control arm were or are in bad condition. .. so I'm going to order the parts to replace them... thanks to your video I feel myself more confident to do it. Thank you.
Hoping you hep me! I have a 2018 X5 that needs the EPS changed. I can not find a video on the process of changing out the entire rack. Any advice would be great.
if you try to shock a ball joint out use a clump hammer of decent weight, so as to open the hole and break the taper, nice video,thanks for taking the time.
I made a wrench for the stabilizer bar..bought the 18mm or 17mm w.e it was and then filed down the arms thinner so it would slide in between the sway Bar and the back side of the stabilizer arm
Did you torque all that stuff down while putting tension on the wheel hub?? I heard it's a must otherwise the torque isn't accurate and can be quite loose under load
Something to remember, when you are torqueing a nylock nut you need to add the running torque(Tr) to the required torque(T) to give you the final torque(Tf) value. So, running torque (the amount of torque to spin the nut with the nylock engaged) plus the require torque (in this case I think it was 74 ft/lbs) equals final torque (Tf=Tr+T).
Hey man... hope you are well. My e46 has a knock in the front suspension with even the slightest of obstacle negotiation. I am trying to determine if it is the control arm or the tie rod ends making the noise without putting the car up on stands. Which problem makes the knock? One / both / ?. Ordered a new steering coupler and will be putting that in soon. Thanks.
+Tj Willy Hmm, I wouldn't think that the control arm bushings would "knock" because it's a huge chunk of rubber and when they go bad I've just noticed that they are pretty loose, but it's hitting knocking against rubber so I wouldn't think it would be an audible knock. So maybe tierods are more likely, however you really need to jack up your car and inspect it. Rock the tires. Look for play.
really good videos 50skid really learn lots from them i been trying to fix a vibration noise on my 2004 bmw 530i with dinamic drive active steering what is happening driving a highway speed between 60 to 70 when making a turn on a 15 degree angle to the right it vibrates on the front right side of the car driving straight line at 60 dont feel anything only when turning to the right at 60 miles i got all new front suspension on it shocks arms swaybar links inner and out tie rods the tires i rebalance twice and did an alignment also any help will be really appreciate thanks
I did this on one side because there was play only on that side, now my steering wheel is off center, and the 4x4 (traction control, i think) comes on every so often when I turn. any thoughts?
Hmm, that doesn't make any sense. This wouldn't shift your steering wheel off center. I would look for other damaged components or loose bolts in the steering rack or something along those lines.
Ivan Hidalgo I'm probably the wrong person to ask that question because I'm kinda cheap and I usually buy aftermarket parts off of eBay lol. My best advice is to check out some BMW forums and ask those guys.
nick craen You actually don't need to load the suspension when replacing these components. Only if you replace the front tension struts (that's the component I pointed to in the video and couldn't remember its name). Also if you replace the stabilizer bar you need to load it as well, but not for the stabilizer bar links. Basically, just for the components that deal with lateral forces, as opposed to those that deal with the up/down movement.
50sKid i get what u say. but im going to this to my e61 and the advice i got everytime is to load it first even for the lower control arm so i dont know. does it hurt when u load it for a control arm u think?
My advice if your going to do this job is degrease the area the day before, sime green works, grease road grime and brake dust make it a messy job. Youll thank me later
Hey, I know this video has been out for a while but I just wanted to mention something. Before the bolt gets tightened where control arm meets chassis, the car either needs to be on the ground or use a jack to lift the hub so the weight of the car has loaded the suspension then tighten the bolt. This way the rubber will not be stretched to its limit at ride height. Love watching your videos so keep up the good work.
Joseph Grace thanks for mentioning that part I'm getting ready to do this on my car, any tips on redoing all the suspension components in one shot, I was thinking of just buying the set for about $700 or so and tackling it in a day since I don't have a lift I'm renting space at a garage for a few hours
I was thinking exactly the same when he was tightening up the bolt
18:45 This lever must be completely spinning when the car is on wheels. Otherwise, a silent block quickly deteriorate. 22:10
This lever is also needed on wheels spinning.
Great video! It helps me a lot. My x5 has a wird knock in the suspension and also when driving in hway has like a small vibration on wheel. after I inspected the right side of my car suspension I noticed the same problem the sway bar and the lower forward control arm were or are in bad condition. .. so I'm going to order the parts to replace them... thanks to your video I feel myself more confident to do it. Thank you.
Hoping you hep me! I have a 2018 X5 that needs the EPS changed. I can not find a video on the process of changing out the entire rack. Any advice would be great.
@50skid did it fix the brake shudder at high speeds?
if you try to shock a ball joint out use a clump hammer of decent weight,
so as to open the hole and break the taper,
nice video,thanks for taking the time.
I made a wrench for the stabilizer bar..bought the 18mm or 17mm w.e it was and then filed down the arms thinner so it would slide in between the sway Bar and the back side of the stabilizer arm
Did you torque all that stuff down while putting tension on the wheel hub?? I heard it's a must otherwise the torque isn't accurate and can be quite loose under load
Great video. Just what was needed for my X5.
+Scott Mars Nice
Something to remember, when you are torqueing a nylock nut you need to add the running torque(Tr) to the required torque(T) to give you the final torque(Tf) value. So, running torque (the amount of torque to spin the nut with the nylock engaged) plus the require torque (in this case I think it was 74 ft/lbs) equals final torque (Tf=Tr+T).
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thanks to u i was able to fix all 4 coners of my x5 n a couple of hours
Hey man... hope you are well. My e46 has a knock in the front suspension with even the slightest of obstacle negotiation. I am trying to determine if it is the control arm or the tie rod ends making the noise without putting the car up on stands. Which problem makes the knock? One / both / ?. Ordered a new steering coupler and will be putting that in soon. Thanks.
+Tj Willy Hmm, I wouldn't think that the control arm bushings would "knock" because it's a huge chunk of rubber and when they go bad I've just noticed that they are pretty loose, but it's hitting knocking against rubber so I wouldn't think it would be an audible knock. So maybe tierods are more likely, however you really need to jack up your car and inspect it. Rock the tires. Look for play.
Yeah... I will. Cold and Snow was coming and I was curious.
really good videos 50skid really learn lots from them i been trying to fix a vibration noise on my 2004 bmw 530i with dinamic drive active steering what is happening driving a highway speed between 60 to 70 when making a turn on a 15 degree angle to the right it vibrates on the front right side of the car driving straight line at 60 dont feel anything only when turning to the right at 60 miles i got all new front suspension on it shocks arms swaybar links inner and out tie rods the tires i rebalance twice and did an alignment also any help will be really appreciate thanks
Could be a wheel bearing problem or even a steering rack issue.
thanks for the tip
Thanks for your video! It helped me to fix my car!
anybody know if a 1/2 wrench will works ? or too big to get inside ?
I did this on one side because there was play only on that side, now my steering wheel is off center, and the 4x4 (traction control, i think) comes on every so often when I turn. any thoughts?
Hmm, that doesn't make any sense. This wouldn't shift your steering wheel off center. I would look for other damaged components or loose bolts in the steering rack or something along those lines.
Because you only did it on one side you need to replace both sides when doing anything to one side.
@IvanHidalgo. I recommend FCPEURO, They have lifetime warranty.
If you live in the USA, this website is perfect for you. (shipping cost is cheap)
Can you recommend a well reputable web site to buy parts for my x5??
Ivan Hidalgo I'm probably the wrong person to ask that question because I'm kinda cheap and I usually buy aftermarket parts off of eBay lol. My best advice is to check out some BMW forums and ask those guys.
super video! It helps me a lot. thanks to your video I feel myself more confident to do it. Thank you.
u did not load the suspesion when u did the bolt on the body
nick craen You actually don't need to load the suspension when replacing these components. Only if you replace the front tension struts (that's the component I pointed to in the video and couldn't remember its name). Also if you replace the stabilizer bar you need to load it as well, but not for the stabilizer bar links. Basically, just for the components that deal with lateral forces, as opposed to those that deal with the up/down movement.
50sKid i get what u say.
but im going to this to my e61 and the advice i got everytime is to load it first even for the lower control arm so i dont know. does it hurt when u load it for a control arm u think?
nick craen nah it doesn't hurt. go ahead and load it first.
Great video, thank you, really helped.
You mentioned a book during vid could you share name, can't find one with those kind of specks
Good vid bud...a pickle fork would've worked great! Keep up the good work
Thanks. You're totally right and I think I will pick one up next time I do a vid involving suspension work just to show a different method next time!
My advice if your going to do this job is degrease the area the day before, sime green works, grease road grime and brake dust make it a messy job. Youll thank me later
thanks for the help ! it was really usefull !
Very helpful ... I'm really hating this 2004 X5 right now ... :/
Tighten the tension on the suspension control arm bushings ???? !!!!! f.... sh... !!!