Nicely Done. Keep it coming :) Off topic question on my 2003 corolla. I wanted to check my oil level and found my oil dipstick is stuck. I don't want to pull to hard to brake the handle. Maybe a little wd-40 to help ? Do you think the little washer on the handle could be causing the problem ? Replacement suggestions once I get it out ? (is this dipstick replacement going to be picky like needing a from dealership one or any one that fits will do ? Thanks in advance.
Hey my friend. The best thing to do would be to take a heat gun put it on its lowest setting and just heat up the steel of the dipstick tube. You definitely don't want to get it too hot because you can melt the plastic. Most times what causes this issue is there will be rust in the area where the O-ring is that seals the dipstick tube. What you can do is at the same time as you heat up the tube try to twist the dipstick once it starts to move then you can attempt pulling it out while twisting. As long as you get it out without breaking it you don't need to replace it you can just clean up the dipstick lubricate the O-ring or replace it with a new one if it is tore up and clean out the dipstick tube. Definitely lubricate it and you should be fine. If it doesn't up breaking the best place to get one is the dealership if you want brand new or a scrapyard. Just make sure it is exactly the same engine and you'll be good to go. I hope that helps my friend. Good luck
@@JimmysAutoClinic Thanks for the reply. I thought maybe some rust. Any recommends for lubricating the o-ring & how would you suggest cleaning out the dipstick tube ? (sandpaper) Thanks
For the O-ring just engine oil is fine. As for the dipstick tube really once you get it free the best thing is to use engine oil and just shove the dipstick in and out of the tube. Usually with the dipstick tube there's no way to really clean it because any of this rust that you clear away will fall into the engine unless you remove the dipstick to then you can use a little bit of sandpaper but it's quite a bit of work and I'm not sure if it's press fit on that engine or bolt on. So I suggest just using oil once you get the dipstick out and that should keep things okay just pull the dipstick out regularly and it will help with it not getting stuck again.
Great video. I have to use ramps to get under mine with a jug. How much will this effect my drain yield and dipstick accuracy, if the car is slightly tilted up on the ramps?? Also, the engine temp you said to run at when topping off before test driving... I have no way to check that except what the temp guage says. Should I just let the car warm up to normal operating temp, or shoot for lower temp? Thanks 👍
Hey Jojo, in regards to draining on ramps shouldn't be too much of an issue. However when filling up and checking the fluid it is important to have it on level ground because you can sometimes affect it by quite a bit. What I would suggest doing is getting a cheap scanner but if that's not possible you can also use a temperature reader to know what the temperature is of the engine on the upper red hose. Now if you don't have that you can also just gauge the temperature by touching the operator holes when it feels hot to the touch it's roughly between 60 to 80 degrees Celsius once you pass. Once you pass I'd say 80°, it gets pretty hot to hold on to so you can kind of gauge what the temperature is by what the radiator hose feels like but of course I would recommend getting a cheap scanner. Also in order to get the car off of the ramps I would throw in a little bit less fluid than what you drained out. Drive it off the ramps and then check the fluid on the floor. Definitely shooting for the lower temperature won't harm anything. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out. Thanks for watching:-).
Excellent video. I've 2004 Corolla LE (made in Ontario) with 254,000 miles. I got ATF fluid and crush washer from a local Toyota dealer. I have a question on the crush washer that your video does not show. Crush washer's one side in flat and another is indented. Which side goes against the transmission pan? Thanks.
In terms of the Crush Washer it is important to make sure that you do not have any indented surface on the portion of the washer where it should be flat. If you're talking about the rounded Edge it doesn't really matter either side is fine to mate with the pan or Bolt. Just make sure that both sides of the washer are completely flat and do not have any creasing or indentations on them as it will lead to a leak.
So generally the older Corollas are a torque converter for an automatic transmission. And the newer ones are cvt. The absolute best way to find out would be to call the dealership with your VIN number to determine what's in the car. Sometime depending upon the country you're in there may be identifying tags or number tags on the transmission and you might be able to Source the information online.
So something new happened today 🤦🏻♂️ the Toyota dealer messed up my radiator, but offered to replace it. My question is: when you replace this, do you have to replace the water pump & thermostat as well? I have an 03 Corolla with 150,000 miles..
Hey Rolando, I don't usually replace those components unless someone has put something like a stop leak or some sort of additive to the cooling system that I may think is harmful. Generally the water pump really never gets replaced unless it's really high mileage and is making noise or leaking. As for the thermostat generally only when there is something new introduced to the system like a stop leak or there is an issue with it. Otherwise I just replace them on their own as needed. Of course if there was a issue with the cooling system relating to overheating or whatnot then I would ask them to check those components but it may cost you more.
Hi I have an 03 Corolla with 150,000 miles. I drained & refilled the trans fluid once at around 80,000 miles. Should I do it again at the current mileage? Also, should I drain & refill the antifreeze coolant from the radiator at this mileage? Sorry about using “miles” 😄I just heard you’re from Canada..
Hey Rolando, I would definitely do both the ATF and coolant. It is quite a bit of mileage. Even if it looks nice and clean it doesn't hurt and will definitely add to the life of your car. Don't worry about using miles. In Canada we're kind of confused our speedometers are in kilometers but the tire pressures are PSI and all of our building materials are still in inches if you're a contractor. Yay Canada half Imperial half metric LOL. Thanks for watching I hope that helps.
New problem Jimmy. I don’t know if you have any videos on the Evap Canister, but my check engine light just came on. The mechanic says I need a new canister, but I wanted to know if it’s something that can be fixed or if I actually need a new one. My car’s the 03 Corolla with 150,000. How long do these canisters usually last? He also said I have to replace the gas cap..
So it all depends on the code that you got and the diagnosis that was done to figure out whether you need the canister. The canister doesn't usually fail. It's usually the valve on the canister but if you are in the Rust Belt you'll end up replacing the canister because you usually can't get the valve separated without breaking the canister. However there are two common problems that cause event leaks that are much cheaper and should be checked thoroughly first. The gas cap number one. Buy it from the dealer. Secondly there is a evap purge solenoid under the hood. The solenoid doesn't usually fail but the whole is can crack and leak. And then you can also have a smoke test performed on the system to figure out what's wrong with the canister. I would not replace the canister first I would take a look at the other two problems and then replace the canister if the system persist with an issue.
@@JimmysAutoClinic I was wondering if you would get the same code whether if it was the gas cap or evap canister..or if they’re different codes for each?
Like I say it all depends on the code. Most times you just get two codes that are generic and indicate a largely or small leak. The gas cap and Purge hose leak that as referring to are usually small but can be large sometimes. The evap canister also makes the same codes. Very seldomly if you have a EVAP code for an electrical solenoid it will indicate either Purge or evap canister solenoid. If you're in the Toronto area you can come on by and we can help you out.
Hi Jimmy, since I last wrote to you, Toyota had replaced my radiator in my 03 Corolla because the mechanic messed it up. Now what I noticed is, it’s missing half the coolant from the reservoir tank from 1 day to the next! It’s got a brand new radiator, yet the coolant is disappearing from the reservoir..why would this be? Could they have messed up something else at the dealer?
Hey rolando, with regards to the fluid disappearing from the reservoir have you topped up the reservoir at all? If you have added any coolant to the reservoir and it is disappearing then there is an issue. If you haven't added any coolant and the level is just fluctuating that is normal. It should of course not go below the minimum line and preferably not exceed the maximum. With the temperature change of the engine going from hot to cold it will affect the level of the coolant in the reservoir. The only way I would be concerned is if the coolant is disappearing after topping it up.
That is normal. They should have told you to top it off when they gave it to you or held it for another day to do that work. As long as it's in between the minimum and max line it is okay. I hope everything worked out with the car so far.
30,000 miles? 😂 That's totally excessive, bro. And don't trust the owners manual. They will tell you things like lifetime fluid, but not telling you the transmissions life is 500k miles. Sure, if you don't change the vital fluids the car won't last that long. You have to go by how clean the fluid is. Which varies by every individual car.
superb video
saved $369 from the dealership by following your tutorial
thank you so much!!!
I love your vibes! Subbed!
Thank you!
What an amazing video subbed and liked
Thank you for watching.
Cool video, very well explained!!!
Nicely Done. Keep it coming :)
Off topic question on my 2003 corolla.
I wanted to check my oil level and found my oil dipstick is stuck. I don't want to pull to hard to brake the handle.
Maybe a little wd-40 to help ?
Do you think the little washer on the handle could be causing the problem ?
Replacement suggestions once I get it out ? (is this dipstick replacement going to be picky like needing a from dealership one or
any one that fits will do ?
Thanks in advance.
Hey my friend. The best thing to do would be to take a heat gun put it on its lowest setting and just heat up the steel of the dipstick tube. You definitely don't want to get it too hot because you can melt the plastic. Most times what causes this issue is there will be rust in the area where the O-ring is that seals the dipstick tube. What you can do is at the same time as you heat up the tube try to twist the dipstick once it starts to move then you can attempt pulling it out while twisting. As long as you get it out without breaking it you don't need to replace it you can just clean up the dipstick lubricate the O-ring or replace it with a new one if it is tore up and clean out the dipstick tube. Definitely lubricate it and you should be fine. If it doesn't up breaking the best place to get one is the dealership if you want brand new or a scrapyard. Just make sure it is exactly the same engine and you'll be good to go. I hope that helps my friend. Good luck
@@JimmysAutoClinic Thanks for the reply.
I thought maybe some rust.
Any recommends for lubricating the o-ring &
how would you suggest cleaning out the dipstick tube ? (sandpaper)
Thanks
For the O-ring just engine oil is fine. As for the dipstick tube really once you get it free the best thing is to use engine oil and just shove the dipstick in and out of the tube. Usually with the dipstick tube there's no way to really clean it because any of this rust that you clear away will fall into the engine unless you remove the dipstick to then you can use a little bit of sandpaper but it's quite a bit of work and I'm not sure if it's press fit on that engine or bolt on. So I suggest just using oil once you get the dipstick out and that should keep things okay just pull the dipstick out regularly and it will help with it not getting stuck again.
a great info vid thanks very much for showing us.
No problem. Thank you for watching.
Great video. I have to use ramps to get under mine with a jug. How much will this effect my drain yield and dipstick accuracy, if the car is slightly tilted up on the ramps?? Also, the engine temp you said to run at when topping off before test driving... I have no way to check that except what the temp guage says. Should I just let the car warm up to normal operating temp, or shoot for lower temp? Thanks 👍
Hey Jojo, in regards to draining on ramps shouldn't be too much of an issue. However when filling up and checking the fluid it is important to have it on level ground because you can sometimes affect it by quite a bit. What I would suggest doing is getting a cheap scanner but if that's not possible you can also use a temperature reader to know what the temperature is of the engine on the upper red hose. Now if you don't have that you can also just gauge the temperature by touching the operator holes when it feels hot to the touch it's roughly between 60 to 80 degrees Celsius once you pass. Once you pass I'd say 80°, it gets pretty hot to hold on to so you can kind of gauge what the temperature is by what the radiator hose feels like but of course I would recommend getting a cheap scanner. Also in order to get the car off of the ramps I would throw in a little bit less fluid than what you drained out. Drive it off the ramps and then check the fluid on the floor. Definitely shooting for the lower temperature won't harm anything. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out. Thanks for watching:-).
Excellent video. I've 2004 Corolla LE (made in Ontario) with 254,000 miles. I got ATF fluid and crush washer from a local Toyota dealer. I have a question on the crush washer that your video does not show. Crush washer's one side in flat and another is indented. Which side goes against the transmission pan? Thanks.
In terms of the Crush Washer it is important to make sure that you do not have any indented surface on the portion of the washer where it should be flat. If you're talking about the rounded Edge it doesn't really matter either side is fine to mate with the pan or Bolt. Just make sure that both sides of the washer are completely flat and do not have any creasing or indentations on them as it will lead to a leak.
Great video
Thanks 😊
So we dont open the pan and clean it with brake fluid or anything? Or is it bc this model doesnt need it done
Is that same transmission fluid changing for Corolla Verso 1.8 MultiMode?
What if your 2003 Toyota Corrolla VVTI UK Model doesn’t have a trans fluid dipstick? How do I find where to fill it?
Some Corolla models have TORQUE CONVERTER AT, some have CVT transmission. How can a layman distinguish?
So generally the older Corollas are a torque converter for an automatic transmission. And the newer ones are cvt. The absolute best way to find out would be to call the dealership with your VIN number to determine what's in the car. Sometime depending upon the country you're in there may be identifying tags or number tags on the transmission and you might be able to Source the information online.
Great video thank you 🙏
13:50 i actually know a german bike mechanic and he uses psi for tires as well
Yeah I think it's better mixing stuff to be honest it's just easier with certain measurements for certain things.
Where do I check the temp of the engine using a scanner? Thank you
I have this car still driving it approaching 400k miles
They are one of the best build cars on the road.
So something new happened today 🤦🏻♂️ the Toyota dealer messed up my radiator, but offered to replace it. My question is: when you replace this, do you have to replace the water pump & thermostat as well? I have an 03 Corolla with 150,000 miles..
Hey Rolando, I don't usually replace those components unless someone has put something like a stop leak or some sort of additive to the cooling system that I may think is harmful. Generally the water pump really never gets replaced unless it's really high mileage and is making noise or leaking. As for the thermostat generally only when there is something new introduced to the system like a stop leak or there is an issue with it. Otherwise I just replace them on their own as needed. Of course if there was a issue with the cooling system relating to overheating or whatnot then I would ask them to check those components but it may cost you more.
You've got the same clicking sound on your car as I have. The same toyota corolla
If you put a Time reference to what sound it is I might be able to identify it.
Hi I have an 03 Corolla with 150,000 miles. I drained & refilled the trans fluid once at around 80,000 miles. Should I do it again at the current mileage? Also, should I drain & refill the antifreeze coolant from the radiator at this mileage? Sorry about using “miles” 😄I just heard you’re from Canada..
Hey Rolando, I would definitely do both the ATF and coolant. It is quite a bit of mileage. Even if it looks nice and clean it doesn't hurt and will definitely add to the life of your car. Don't worry about using miles. In Canada we're kind of confused our speedometers are in kilometers but the tire pressures are PSI and all of our building materials are still in inches if you're a contractor. Yay Canada half Imperial half metric LOL. Thanks for watching I hope that helps.
New problem Jimmy. I don’t know if you have any videos on the Evap Canister, but my check engine light just came on. The mechanic says I need a new canister, but I wanted to know if it’s something that can be fixed or if I actually need a new one. My car’s the 03 Corolla with 150,000. How long do these canisters usually last? He also said I have to replace the gas cap..
So it all depends on the code that you got and the diagnosis that was done to figure out whether you need the canister. The canister doesn't usually fail. It's usually the valve on the canister but if you are in the Rust Belt you'll end up replacing the canister because you usually can't get the valve separated without breaking the canister. However there are two common problems that cause event leaks that are much cheaper and should be checked thoroughly first. The gas cap number one. Buy it from the dealer. Secondly there is a evap purge solenoid under the hood. The solenoid doesn't usually fail but the whole is can crack and leak. And then you can also have a smoke test performed on the system to figure out what's wrong with the canister. I would not replace the canister first I would take a look at the other two problems and then replace the canister if the system persist with an issue.
@@JimmysAutoClinic I was wondering if you would get the same code whether if it was the gas cap or evap canister..or if they’re different codes for each?
Like I say it all depends on the code. Most times you just get two codes that are generic and indicate a largely or small leak. The gas cap and Purge hose leak that as referring to are usually small but can be large sometimes. The evap canister also makes the same codes. Very seldomly if you have a EVAP code for an electrical solenoid it will indicate either Purge or evap canister solenoid. If you're in the Toronto area you can come on by and we can help you out.
@@JimmysAutoClinic wish I was. I’m in US..thanks man I appreciate it.
No problem
Hi Jimmy, since I last wrote to you, Toyota had replaced my radiator in my 03 Corolla because the mechanic messed it up. Now what I noticed is, it’s missing half the coolant from the reservoir tank from 1 day to the next! It’s got a brand new radiator, yet the coolant is disappearing from the reservoir..why would this be? Could they have messed up something else at the dealer?
Hey rolando, with regards to the fluid disappearing from the reservoir have you topped up the reservoir at all? If you have added any coolant to the reservoir and it is disappearing then there is an issue. If you haven't added any coolant and the level is just fluctuating that is normal. It should of course not go below the minimum line and preferably not exceed the maximum. With the temperature change of the engine going from hot to cold it will affect the level of the coolant in the reservoir. The only way I would be concerned is if the coolant is disappearing after topping it up.
@@JimmysAutoClinic yeah so after they put in the new radiator & topped it off, the next day the reservoir was missing half the coolant!
That is normal. They should have told you to top it off when they gave it to you or held it for another day to do that work. As long as it's in between the minimum and max line it is okay. I hope everything worked out with the car so far.
Thanks
No problem
thanks 🎉
"Buy the oil from the dealer why don't I just flush my money down the toilet!" G. Costanza
LOL is that seinfeld?
❤🎉😊
Change your transmission fluid every 60000 80000 miles depending on your driving capabilities
I think you mean driving habits and environment?
@@JimmysAutoClinic No he means if you're a better driver, you can do a longer interval :p
Manual says 30k km - 50
I mean I guess.
Hey look at that I think that's what the recommendation was in the video that I made. I usually say 3 years or 50,000. Thank you for looking it up.
Canadians 😂
LOL thank you
30,000 miles? 😂
That's totally excessive, bro.
And don't trust the owners manual.
They will tell you things like lifetime fluid, but not telling you the transmissions life is 500k miles. Sure, if you don't change the vital fluids the car won't last that long. You have to go by how clean the fluid is. Which varies by every individual car.