Ep 5 - Bind the F (hole) up! | Building a Guitar from 42,000 Year Old Wood!
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
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In this episode, Ben is soaking the Kauri fretboard in Cactus juice to stabilise it and he decides to bind the F hole too.
#customguitar #electricguitar #guitardesign #custombuild #oldwood
Chapters:
0:00 Introduction to Ben's current obsession...
0;55 Making the fretboard
1:55 Using the Cactus Juice and a vacuum chamber to stabilise the fretboard
4:40 Bath time...sucks...
7:27 The fretboard now needs to cook
9:06 Back to the body and cleaning up the binding & wood filler
9:53 Designing a custom scratchplate directly onto the body
14:30 Binding the F hole...
19:10 Is your left pinky finger as confident as your right???
22:25 French BENding the veneer for the tighter F-hole curves
26:00 Cleaning up the binding
28:02 And there we go...next time...
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Хобби
I like the F Hole binding, it gives it more class and leave the points. Instead of using an acrylic scratch plate, because you don't want to cover up the wood, make a scratch plate out of the same wood (matching the grain) and cover it with epoxy resin. That way you have the beautiful wood with a hard enough finish to handle the abuse of the pick.
Love this idea! And prefer the slightly more organic shaped scratchplate rather than the very angular/ straight-lined version..
nailed it right there mate
I like how this series is progressing so much quicker. The power of a commissioned project.
The first version of a pickguard's shape I like much much better. And the f-hole binding looks really nice.
as a new Zealander am so invested in this series....checkout our local guitar and pickup maker langcaster...they make kauri guitars..well worth a look...very nice stuff!
i also got an ancient kauri build going on currently :) the guitar will be named "aotearoa" :)
It's time you explored the Japanese art of Kintsugi (Golden Joinery)! The art of using high value materials to repair broken pottery by mending the areas of breakage with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum. As a philosophy, it treats breakage and repair as part of the history of an object, rather than something to disguise. Instead of plugging holes or cracks with sawdust (like the one on the Bog Oak Fretboard) use metal dust like Gold, Copper, Silver, Aluminium etc. to make a feature of it!
Dude, I absolutely love kintsugi!!!
Doing so would totally match certain design elements of the past. Think of the bog oak build and the use of gold foil. Kintsugi is completely within the realm of possibilities of another build…particularly that 335 build he’s gonna use the bog oak on.
Perhaps purposely buying wood for THAT BUILD that’s got numerous flaws already in it (rather than looking for that “perfect piece” that most builders go for).
@@PhantomOfTheMall It's sometimes called 'The Art Of Precious Scars'! I love the ethos of taking something that's broken and making it more beautiful and valuable than it was in it's unbroken state! Or taking the 'Flaw' in a piece of wood and making it the best feature!
Everyone knows what Kintsugi is. It's all over popular media
@@FrankFurther Thanks for the input Ben! 👌smh
That can very quickly look kitschy. Just like with epoxy tables that have glitter in them. I'd be very, very cautious with that.
Next Vid please,
Really enjoyable project Ben. So lovely to see such artistry in the West Country.
I love the inlaid pickguard Arwen Lutherie made for his guitar!
SCRATCH PLATE: 100% needs to be the Jazz style. But you have a great opportunity, to make it really cool. ''Idea" engrave the back via CNC, add black epoxy fill pinstripe, also you can add the guitar name, and custom dedication, possibly in gold. Will give a high-end touch, and if done to mid-depth of the acrylic a 3D effect.
I am not a guitar builder, but I do like the idea. This is something for Ben to consider doing on his watch inspired guitar build. He could cnc partially from the back on that build.
For the scratch plate, if there's enough thickness available, you could route out a shallow pocket to then fill with clear epoxy. And instead of using a torch to pop the bubbles you can use a fine mist sprayer with denatured alcohol, which does the same thing but without the fire. You may have already completed it but it's a thought for next time.
Leave the points!
It's crazy things like this that show Ben's intimate understanding of wood. I would not have thought that you could bend the ebony veneer that tight, but I don't work with veneers. Ben just understood he could do that. It's a subtle but stunning result and as others have said will probably look better under finish.
That F hole binding is lovely. I dare you to do a triple bind. So put some maple on top of the bi ding you’ve just put on. And then another layer of dark.
Yes, I think the F-hole binding points should be squared, but just the binding, so the wood point is still covered (preferably cut off at the thickness of the binding out from the point).
A bogoak scratchplate would accent the binding quite well. The smaller version. You would loose some nice wood, but be replacing it with another awesome piece of wood
I like the binding a lot. It’s not that it IS there, it’s that it’s not NOT there. You don’t do much as see it as you would see that you see the edge grain of the top. I’m split on chopping the points - love the look, but fear the delicacy, especially after you mentioned that the artist who will play it is a tad on the heavy handed / enthusiastic side.
Loving the build !
I could imagine making a thin black line inlay around the pick-up hole to mimic the line around the guitar body... just carving a shallow groove and fill it with thin strip of same veneer.
Love the f-hole binding. Leave them pointy! Just finished it off nicely. Scratch plate - either clear acrylic, or make some out of kauri, that wood’s beautiful!
As an assist to creating a pick guard, try some shapes in cardboard or paper to see them in place. The material shapes easily/quickly and is fairly ubiquitous. Also gives you template for whatever material is your final choice.
Using clear epoxy would show off the grain of the wood while protecting it. Maybe a very mild tint to make it visible without obscuring the beauty of the wood.
Simple clear acrylic would do the same, as was mentioned.
The F hole binding looks very good. It looks very finished and proper. As for the scratch plate situation, honestly, I'd say just don't have one. You bought a stunningly beautiful wood to make a pretty guitar, the more of that wood we can see in the final product, the better. That may sound like the boring answer, but using the wood for it's natural beauty sounds like the best answer.
This guy is my damn hero. Love crimson guitars and envy Ben Crowes talent
I bet the F Hole binding will show up a lot more under finish!
If you're looking at changing the points in there, is it too late to make them rounded? Would you want to even, or is it just me? :D
keep the pointy edge in the f hole!!
Looks great but I think that the pickup hole should have a binding too. A fine black line between the orange wood and the chrome cover would would look great.
the pickup is black i think, probably woudlnt see the binding at all there
Pick guard idea: a layer of resin on the body constrained to the shape of a pick guard. Downside is it can’t be removed (easily), may eventually discolor. Upside: no fasteners, no dirt under the guard.
So happy to see this build continue.
When you announced binding the f hole after already attaching the top I thought; yep, peak Ben.
For the scratch plate, you could use some of the kauri shavings, make a mold for the shape and make a resin and kauri shavings pickguard. That could be something really fun to do
Swamp Kauri. Has that golden "Tiger Eye" effect called Chatouancy from the twisted grain. Very rare wood.
For the scratch plate, personally think the 1st idea for the bottom and the "top" matching the body of the F hole shape. Maybe ;)
Love the f-hole binding. I think you should leave them pointy. If the tip breaks off, you can fix it. You can't undo it.
purge and do it several times (drop and build pressure ) this removes the air and the liquid flows into the vacuum created. Kauri (even sawmp Kauri) is a softwood at the end of the day. Oak is not as you know but, it also has long open pores and hence one reason it's often been overlooked for luthiery as it soaks up liquids or stains too easy and can swell. Talk to you and Sam about it when I come in, cactus juice is the bomb though.
As you said, that binding is subtle but it has reinforced the edge of the f hole too - which is its real job :)
You could use the clear pick guard film they put on acoustic guitars, but personally I would go for a good quality tortoise type and the first design shape
The binding of the F-hole was an amazing delicate job. 👍👍
About stabilizing wood I have to do some objections. I make knives and I stabilze wood for knife handles for quite some years now so I consider myself kind of experienced. Stabilizing is a one shot process. You dry the wood, evacuate it, let it soak for a long time to have the wood soak the resin in, you heat cure it. A second run will have no impact, you will not get more resin into the wood. I tried it multiple times, it did not work. How do I know. Simple, I weigh my wood and had no significant weight increases at the second runs. It’s kind ig logic. The resin cures at the wood surface first and seals it. There are no open pores anymore.
I can confirm Cactus Juice will not fill large gaps.
F hole binding is quite elegant
The binding will pop more under finish, but otherwise it seems like an an aesthetic treat that only the player will be able to truly admire, which isn't a bad thing. A high attention to generally unnecessary details is sort of what elevates a good craftsman to a great one. I personally would round off the f-hole points a bit, if only because I would be in constant anxiety about snagging a shirt sleeve on one and ripping it off. That said, there is something appealing about how delicate they look.
I also second the suggestion of making the pickguard from epoxy-coated kauri. Might as well bind that too while you're at it.
Nice shout out to @shockthefox !! He builds really pretty guitars, but then again so do so many of the GGBO competitors.
Something between a Jazzmaster pickguard and a Tele thinline pickguard might be cool.
First pickguard design was way more fluid with the contours of the body. The smaller “traditional” guard looks out of place in a bad way IMO. Thinner, clear, follow the contours and try to make the pickguard mostly disappear by hugging the body contours, let the wood and shape be the focus.
This, add a bevel to the edge of the pickguard to match the body bevel too. Need to be completely transparent, even the pegs holding it to the body. Don't distract from the body.
@@Paul-ls8fe exactly! I think looking at the pickguard on a 70’s Guild S-100 Polara would be a great example of the basic notion.
I agree too! A clear contour hugging pick guard is the way to go, and the bevel will set it off perfectly. And the traditional pick guard shape was jarring against the modern offset shape of the guitar
@@Paul-ls8fe nice idea about transparent fixings, however my experience with transparent material is that cloud when using strong enough glues to affix the pegs you suggest. However I am sure a man of Bens skill will overcome that.
@@jamesduffin9417 you shouldn't need to glue them in, interference fit should hold it
I think the scratch plate needs to be more of an organic shape to follow the body and F hole. I think the F hole binding polished the opening up nicely,once it has lacquer on it it will have a nice pop.
Since the wood is so soft, I would have made a scratchplate that followed the curve of the veneer, covering the lower half of the top, protecting the area around the controls.
That would mean the only straight line on the body is along the centreline... which is the least disruptive place to put it.
Can’t wait to see the finished product!
The the sharp points look amazing and a free form the shape like the bottom of guitar for the clear guard
Even if the binding is subtle, it would be more noticeable had it not been done. So, big yes! Personally, I like the pointy look, but the curves could be just too sensitive to leave them like this. One shirt sleeve button hooking in there and catastrophe!
With regards to the scratchplate, I'm not sure a "traditional" jazz guitar style raised plate is the right way to go. This is a Fender style guitar after all - and Fenders all have flat mounted scratch plates, and those inform the look of the instrument. I'd go with a tele style "smaller" scratchplate mounted flat covering the side of the lower strings as well, run a bevel on the outside of that and have it stay away from the outline of the instrument with a constant distance. A weird idea would be to actually use glass instead of acrylic ;)
I also think the PCB mounted controls are a mistake. In my version (if your remember, I wrote about that, I've got the first prototype PCBs here, but still need to mount components and then start the debug-fix cycle before making them smaller - so you'll hear from me when there is something to actually use soon enough) I will not have the controls affixed to the PCBs.
How about some lightly hammered, flamed/oxidized, raw copper scratch plate for a stand off scratch guard? That would have texture in both material and colour, and look aged like the wood is and it would evolve over time when played, where the scratch scars actually add an individual character to the material.
Would also make a great material for the pickup covers, oxidizing over time.
F-hole binding, definitely needed. The one you put on looks very good.
As for the scratch plate, clear to show off the wood is an excellent choice. Either make a matching clear stand-off, or find threaded inserts the same color as your hardware.
Very enjoyable and calming to watch!
I like the binding - it looked to be a lot “easier” than I thought, as you sensibly completed it in sections.
I really have NO idea on scratchplate shapes, but that too does look VERY thin indeed so it’ll need it!
When doing vacuum bagging (or boxing) it's the seal that you care about, so you can use tacky tape (aka chromate) to seal your lid to the box.
I would say round the F holes, but that's just me. Shes a beautiful piece of work already. Really nice!
Sorry Ben but that’s not a bevel, it’s a chamfer around the edge of the body.
Bevels connect opposite faces (like on a chisel), chamfers connect adjoining faces.
0:38 Ben, you should know this but when you don't have a finish on the otherside it's going to dry and take moisture differently than the otherside so ofcourse it's going to bend!
A clear pickguard with a polished metal surround would look quite stylish IMO
I've been waiting for the next episode of this Kauri build!!!
F hole binding looks real cool.
I say bind the P/U hole as well (assuming there wont be a P/U ring)
I like the points, but points break easily. I think I would round them vertically. That way they would still look pointed from the top, but would be rounded in the other direction to stop any tendency to split or catch. I really dislike clear fingerboards, but that's only my opinion. I think I would go with the same kind of wood with a darker wood colored stain and polyeurathane finish for the pick guard. Love this build so far. Can't wait to see the finished guitar.
Absolutely love the F Holes and pointy is very elegant
One idea is to make the scratch guard out of the same material as the fret board. That wood should be stronger while also matching the rest of the guitar
i chuckled at the start of the f hole binding when you were like " i hope that i have to do it that way" and then you didnt
Truly delightful and will worth doing the binding, I would use a clear stick on ultra thin scratch plate I have one on my acoustic because the top is western red cedar, you hardly notice it.
Clear all the way. We wanna see the beautiful wood. Also jazz style pickgaurds eventually get loose and become a pain in the ass with buzzing, in my experiences.
I think it would be nice to use a thin kauri off-cut for the scratch plate. You could impregnate it with resin similar to the fingerboard and then attach it similar to a 335 pick guard.
Have you thought about using thin laminated glass for the scratch plate? The acrylic will quickly look dull and well, scratched - spoiling the look. Just a thought.
pointy seems an appropriate contrast to the curves.
YES, we've been waiting for this for weeks now.
Me too!
For the scratch plate, a thunderbird bass type scratch plate may work nicely.
Pick guard needs to follow the contour of the body. The explorer/les Paul style doesn’t work IMO. Loving this series, Ben 👍🏻👌
Loving the build, Ben. Kauri is almost beating out koa as my new favourite guitar wood. As for the pickguard, maybe have it swell out towards the lower bout very subtly and similarly to the rear of the pickup. Māori designs are all very natural. So maybe a nod to the culture? Check out the mangopare pattern which represents the hammerhead shark. Could give a vibe for the pickguard. Merry Christmas to all Crimson staff and fans too ✌🏻Oh, maybe a clear pickguard with a binding edge to highlight but, not detract from the wood?
Mirror the scratch plate along the lines of the F hole, the veneer looks great Ben!
Sharp tips are gorgeous.
Binding is definitely a nice touch. Maybe you can shape the points to where they mirror the upper and lower horns of the body?
For the pickguard, could you take another piece of the kauri and use the cactus resin to harden it, and stain it a slightly darker colour than the natural wood if the resin doesn't already darken it? That could be a nice way to achieve the functionality without spoiling the aesthetic. I don't personally like the idea of a clear pickguard because I don't think it would look good against that wood.
Loving the journey on this build,I found it funny telling you about the Whitebait Kauri and you not seeing my emails with pics of Whitebait Kauri and now you have some to play with 😎👍
If you want to pronounce Kauri properly say it like...
Co ,as in company and ree
So say it as
Coree with a roll of the R...
Too good Guys
✌😎👍
I think leave the F hole binding as it is, it helps make it look more pronounced and neater
The f-hole binding looks great pointy and looks more delicate. It'd be a shame to lop it off.
The first pickguard design wasn't particularly doing it for me but when you said you had changed your mind and were thinking of a more jazz guitar style pickguard my immediate thought was that's a much better idea! I think the straight line of the pickguard you drew out didn't work with the curvy curvy body and thought It'd look much better if the outer side of the pickguard was a more rounded shape than a straight line.
Definitely square off the pointy f-hole binding. If for no other reason it could snag on a scarf. 😱
This build is second only to the Nebula guitar for me and hope you make one of those for yourself! The grain is going to be insane.
Make a dam in the shape of your scratch plate, fill it with clear resin to increase the thickness.
For the f hole, I’d put a bit of a heavier bevel to the points rather than square them off, that way you’d retain the point and be less likely to catch then and break them off. For the scratch plate, would it be better to get a classical guitar pickguard, like the clear sticky back plastic type? You keep the character of the wood underneath and the guards only visible for certain points of view
I suggest that you mock up some pick guards out of clear plastic sheet and see which one looks best
Cactus juiced Kauri scratch plate perhaps. Defo think Acrylic would spoil an instrument made from such beautiful and precious natural material.
Hey Ben! What a great build again, you are such a master of your craft. Very enjoyable to watch.
Regarding the pickguard, How about a shape that loosely follows the outer shape of the guitar but from a distance? A bit like Hagström do it on their Viking gold top model. Just my two pence.
Loving your work so far, for the pick guard perhaps having the bottom line of the stand off guard matching the contour of the top of the guitar insted of the diagonal line you had drawn would make it blend in more. Bit off the wall perhaps but has anyone used glass as a pick guard?
maybe you can base the scratchplate shape on the guitar shape? have it follow the contour of the bridge-side of the body? or maybe shape it like the upper horn?
Make a tempered glass scratchplate.
Acrylic scratches too easily.
Make a spare just in case.
glass pickgaurd? waterjet cut tablet screen protector? would be more scratch resistant than acrylic, classier to boot. going to have to try my hand at making one for my archtop.
glass. flat plate, cut into the shape you drew or nearly the same, away-from-hand corner slightly elevated.
I think squaring the ends of the f-hole bindings would look “off”..
They are the ends where flowing lines come together, so naturally those ends will look pointy..
And my idea for a pickguard would be to copy the upper “wing” or horn, flip that and mirror it, play with it for a bit and i believe you will end up with a shape that complements the rest of the lines in this guitar.. or maybe not, haha
Cool to see these parts slowly come together and ending up as a beautiful finished guitar!
Thanks for the entertaining content and keep up what you’re doing!
Greetings from Holland and Good luck with the rest of this build!🙂
Fabulous guitar, superb video Ben
great idea with the screwdriver. you rock.
now that there is binding on the f-hole, you just have to do the pickup cavity too ;-)
Came for the guitar, stayed for the watches. Nice Batman 🔥
Cheers 😀 I absolutely love that watch, its a problem! 😆
And GSOTM 🌑
Personally I would go for a larger pick guard similar to the first design you penciled in. Given how this is essentially an acoustic guitar, you can expect much broader strumming and the smaller design might not cut it when it comes to protection. To attach it you might consider some rare earth magnets glued to the inside of the sound board while you can still access it through the pickup cavity. That way the customer can change it out as they see fit without having to deal with screws or glue.
Cactus juice? It's the quenchiest!
I wonder if that moved so much because it had some kind of finish on one side, and not the other. Made it absorb/release moisture unevenly.
What if you used a piece of Kauri that’s resined up like your fret board for the scratch plate? And maybe stained with some color? Blue would be cool! You would see the grain but have a visual contrast as well!
Have you considered a copper or bronze honeycomb scratch plate? Protection with lots of visible wood.
I think those pointy bits are likely to catch and break easily, I would cut them down a bit. the inlay will work viewing at the angle but it is a bit thin face on, but that's OK
Binding looks great. I'd say no scratch plate.
Love the binding ❤will you do the pickup hole too,I think I’d prefer a more organic shape pick guard,this beauty is all about the curves,I feel a small angular guard might look a bit harsh.it’s all subjective I guess,one man’s meat……..
Marvellous work. Subbed
Love the F hole binding, I believe you should leave the points...it seems more "elegant" to me. I agree with Greg Anderson, make a pick guard from a thin piece of Kuari and attach maybe Gretch or LP style.
A prime reason to leave the shortland part of the platform whoohoo!
You know, I just realized, what about gluing some sort of thin mesh in the F hole on the back of the top so nothing falls in? Something not be too obvious and weird looking, like fishing wire/that practical effects wire that film makers used to use, or pickup wire if it compliments the finish colour. It might take a while to hand weave/glue it but if you can find a near invisible small holed mesh wouldn't that be cool? It's a thought for a more modern guitar at least right?