Fitting an 18th-century dress BY MYSELF | Making an Italian Gown pt. 1
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Welcome to part 1 of a 2 part series where I attempt to sew and fit an Italian gown from the 1780s. This video is the culmination of months of work sewing foundation garments and accessories for this ensemble. This is also my first attempt at sewing this style of dress and I'm nervous because I have to fit a very fitted bodice by myself without any help. Let's see how it goes...
** SUPPLIES **
Pattern: Black Snail - Robe a la Anglaise 1770-90 www.patterns.b...
Linen for lining and shift:
Ikea Duvet cover: search “Sprangort” on eBay
Synthetic whalebone: corsetmaking.c...
** REFERENCES **
Timesmith Dressmaking video on fitting an 18th-century gown: • 18th Century Dressmaki...
This channel is an invaluable resource for this time period!
The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/36twprc (affiliate link)
** 1780s SEWING **
Front-lacing Stays: • Struggling to Sew an 1...
(+Finishing the stomacher for the stays): • Motivation for Alterat...
Big silk bonnet: • I like big BONNETS and...
Split bum pad: • Perfecting the late 18...
** IMAGES **
Robe à l’Anglaise 1776 (English Gown)
www.metmuseum....
Robe à l’Anglaise 1785-95 (Italian Gown)
www.metmuseum....
** MUSIC **
Courtesy of EpidemicSound.com
** CONNECT **
Follow me on Instagram @dixiediy: / dixiediy
I blog at dixiediy.com
I may not always have time to respond to all comments but know that I do appreciate them!
"I haven't had any issues that weren't my own fault."
I have no experience with 18th-century sewing but this line is widely applicable. Personally I like to take a reasonable pattern suited to my skill level, then complicate my whole life by cutting book-matched bias pieces out of plaid fabric, that sort of thing. Wonderful craft we've chosen for indulging this impulse.
😂 yep, sounds like something I'd do, too
You make me want to start cutting up my duvet covers...
I love the fabric! I started with the same dress form. It was definitely irritating and had issues, but it was what I could afford.
Yeah it was all I could afford at the time, too. Maybe one day I'll upgrade but then again I'm super cheap 😂
This may be a dumb question since I’m a novice to sewing, but what are the alternatives? A custom dress form?
@@whatsername186 it's not a dumb question. There are some custom alternatives like a body scan one, there are also much better quality ones that are generally sized and you can purchase a padding kit to make it closer to your size. Unfortunately all of them are pretty pricey. Personally, even if I could afford those I wouldn't invest in one if I was just starting. My 1st one was one just like hers (except mine is blue) and while it was frustrating and not the best sometimes, it did work. It's what I used for almost 10 years. It's in my garage now just in case, but even now I'm not getting rid of it. But it really is about what you can afford. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the information on the adjustable dress form! I had been thinking about buying one someday, and now I know not to!
Glad to help ;-)
Ahhh I made the same exact dress from that book and I finished it on Halloween! I used my dress form and lots of trial and error and I'm so happy with how it turned out since it was my first historical costume. I even did a good amount of hand sewing because it did end up being the easiest way to construct the bodice. I wish you could post pics as a comment on RUclips!
"I haven't had any issues that weren't my own fault." True words for most all of us. Sometimes we fail to think things through, and the others times we over-think the problem.
You did great, and reassure us that EVERY has problems to work out as-best-as-possible. xx
That is some really lovely work. Cartridge pleats are something I want to find an excuse to try in the next project. And the fabric choice is lovely.
And. Yeah. Fitting. Right now I'm on an {ah-hem, unplanned} hiatus from making my first bust block. Version 8 of the patterning is currently sitting on the shelf. Whilst I tinker away at a Redthreaded Regency half stays; attempt 4. Because that totally makes sense for a beginner sewist. Yeah.
Suggestion for your mannequin. Find a plastic tube - like plastic water piping from a big box hardware thing... Pull the mannequin off the supporting post. Then saw the correct height of where you want the bottom of the mannequin to rest.
If you want to get really fancy - get one of those flange things that attaches plastic piping to a wall. Glue that at the upper edge of the plastic water pipe with the right kind of glue. Use a square of ply or foam core with a (hole drilled in the center) to act as a lower base for the mannequin to rest on.
Rethread the mannequin back onto the center post... and maybe, just maybe?
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Thanks! maybe I'll try the pvc piping idea, gotta break out the tool box for that one!
if only I could send fabric into the ether and have it come back perfectly cut, fit, and ready to sew. I always love your vids !
Me, too. Glad you're here!
Hi! I just recently sewed my first Italian gown. I used the'pattern' from the American duchess book and went through like four mockups before it fit right, so... But at least now it looks beautiful:) As for closures: the book said just to pin it closed, but I didn't really like that because I was afraid the pins were gonna come out during wearing and I didn't really want that. So I sewed in some hooks and eyes and they work fine, but at the last minute I also sewed in a laced underbodice because I wanted to be able to wear the dress without my stays.
I'd like to try the laced underbodice on a future project I think, just to see how it compares to hooks and pins. Congrats on finishing your first Italian gown!
I'm a plus size gal also and I was able to just barely squeeze out an Italian Gown out of a twin. (I'm 5'6"). HAHA I'm so glad you love the detailed instructions Roti (the owner and creator of BlackSnails) has put a lot of research in to her patterns. I help her out by editing her English instructions. I haven't gotten to all the patterns just yet but this is one that we worked on again. So the instructions are really well done. :D Unsolicited advice: I find that if I put a tall pillow my lap and pin each edges of my hand sewing down to each edge, that I get better tension and ease the pressure on my hands thus being able to sew quicker and more precise. Have you thought about creating a new custom cover for your dress form from Bootstraps and stuffing it out to your measurements over this dress form? You could also you a clam to hold the pole at the height it needs to be. The fitting on your bodice looks fantastic so far! Can't wait to see your finished garment. I actually just pin my dress closed.
Good to know about the twin-size, because it was much harder to find larger size duvets for sale on ebay. That's awesome that you helped with the translation! Roti obviously knows her stuff and I've enjoyed the patterns that I've used so far. That pillow idea is good, I'll use it next time! And I've considered the bootstrap pattern but honestly, I've just been putting it off because there are so many things I'd rather sew than something utilitarian like that. I know it would be so useful but my time is limited these days so I have to pick and choose my projects and the pretty dresses and corsets tend to win over things like hemming curtains and sewing dress forms. Maybe one day....
@@DixieDIY I totally get the limited time. :D
It's like my DREAM to wear an 18th century dress and I'd love to make my own, but I'm a broke 14 year old with no job, no skill, and no time 🤠✌
I was the same, now I'm 22 and this is my second year making dresses
Same same and same.
It's looking fabulous! I have to fit something on myself tomorrow and I'm... procrastinating for exactly the reason that it will be such a pain in the ass. :)
Ugh, fitting is the worst and always takes me the longest time, probably because I, too, procrastinate. I just want to move on to sewing the pretty fabric but fitting always stands in the way.
I have finally decided to take the plunge and create my first historical gown, along w the undergarments. This is super helpful!
Yay! Good luck with your gown project!
Lovely work. Such patience.
Love the tiger tape cool!
Loved this video! I am currently making the American Duchess "Outlander" Gown (Simplicity 8161). I am avoiding people like the plague (pun intended) and have a janky dress form (duct tape anyone?). It's been interesting. I need to finish it tomorrow to wear to the picnic on Saturday. While it shows lacing I am actually going to pin it closed. Fingers crossed it works. Also, I saw the costumer who hand-painted/colored the Ikea fabric and loved it. But I immediately thought "That is a great project for someone with no kids, dog, husband, house +++ to care for. LOL
I may have also seen that costumer you referenced but she must have had a lot more time or at least better markers. Mine just didn't have enough ink to make the process speedy. I wish I could be there to see your Outlander outfit! I bet it's fantastic.
Your video is so helpful; I’m collecting all the stuff I need for making one of these dresses, and yes, I did buy one of these dress forms..... Oh well, like you I do not have anyone to help with the fitting, so I will have to make it work.
sometimes you just gotta do whatever works with what you have and what's within your budget. good luck with your dress project!
I’ve purchased this pattern. I’ve still got some undergarments to finish but it’s on the list.
Good luck on your dress project!
I adore your channel so much! Sometimes if I need a pick me up I just play your videos. They’re hilarious, comforting and really instructive too!! Xx
Aww thanks so much! And I love your channel, too! Your costumes are so creative, I loved the pink Ariel ensemble.
This is so informative thank you
You are a braver woman than me. I have yet to attempt an 18th Century anything. I have a banyan robe in the planning, but that is it. I will be waiting for the rest of your bravery. Stay well!
I have the same dress form, I put a ring of duct tape just under the adjusting ring so it won't slide down. Great job!!!
Genius! now where is my duct tape.........
You are doing a fantastic job!! Dont feel discouraged. I am working on my 4th 1780s gown, and I only work and fit by myself. My hubby doesnt understand the concept of fitting. Its difficult but do-able. I prefer hook and eyes for closure. I dont have time to mess with hidden ties by the time I've constructed the bodice. It usually takes me 3 months from start to finish for a 1780s gown. And thats without interruption. You got this, keep chugging along! Cant wait for part 2.
I'm currently working on an Italian gown myself and I actually made it a zone front with the underbodice and over bodice are sewn together toale dressing a lot easier but it does have the Italian style back with the skirt and bodice being completely separate entities. Not sure if that's accurate but it worked for me. Great job and good luck on your dress!! It looks so cool so far. It's actually such a look already and I love it.
I also want to make an Italian gown! The same exact one.. Thanks for this video, i hope it'll help me 😁
Thanks for watching and good luck on your gown project!
So dreamy 🤩 love this!!
Wow . you did it 😀😀
Dress form solution for you. I use an adjustable pipe clamp around the upright, and set it to the height I need. It stops the form from sinking down. Hopefully you know what I mean, it's a small steel hoop that you screw open and closed over plumbing fittings.
Funny you mention this, I ended up using a guitar capo to hold up the form, but since this video I made a new dressform so I no longer have that problem. Thanks for the tip!
I can’t wait for part 2!! I’m working on an 18th century jacket and have stalled at the sleeve step for going on a month now. Argh! I’ve never set sleeves before and I’m claustrophobic so I know if I feel like I’m in a straight jacket I will NEVER wear it and I’ve put too much work into it to have that happen. I’m also worried that I’ve cut my armholes too deep based on what I’ve read but whenever I put it on it feels like it’s cutting up into my armpits. If anyone has any suggestions they would be soo appreciated!
Oh and I’m fitting this on myself, too🙃😅
Thanks! How wide are your armhole seam allowances? If they're big (like my pattern is 5/8") maybe trim them down (if you're willing) in the underarm area?
All I can tell you is that I have gotten caught doing something I was sure would save time and look OK. Guess what? Yep, you are right. It didn't work and I had to start over. So frustrating! All said and done, it did turn out ok in the end!
Check out the dressform from bootstrap! I got one to my measurements and am kind of excited about the costume possibilities now.
I've considered it, it just means I have to spend a lot of time on making it and my free time is already so short. I'd rather spend it making costumes even though I know a better dressform would help me make better costumes so 🤷♀️
@@DixieDIY I get it! I really do. It comes together in a few hours and its to your height, not just your measurements. Might stop you from wrestling the height adjustment so much.
I see it as an investment in future time for me. But either way, thanks for the video! It's inspired some sewing!
Have you seem these dress forms that you send your measurements and they send you a pattern, and you make it up with fabric, interfacing and stuffing? Apparently it works wonders, and you can dress it up with a corset, from what I've seen.
I'm a shirtmaker so I don't have a dress form, but I wonder if I should try makin' one.
I'm thinking these things may be the answer to how to have a dress form for your corseted measurements…
To be honest, I'd be tempted to just find the industry standard measurements for the size just below what I currently wear. Then pad up from there. Because you can't blame a body for daydreaming a little weight loss into the picture.
- Cathy (&, accidentally, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
You should!
i bet you can replace that pesky pole!
or maybe fuse it in place with something like jb weld, or find some kind of replacement screws/clamps
Yeah. There's got to make a way to keep that form UP where it will actually be a help, not a hinderance.
In future you should look into making a custom dress form.
"Be careful with steam, kids!"
TIP: I managed to find a heat glove that came with one of my flat irons. I now use it to protect my fingers when doing this exact thing!
* furiously digs through her bathroom cabinet to find that heat glove she never used *
I used this pattern but with the cut on skirt. I had so many issues. The lining was fine but first I didn't have enough fabric for the full skirt pattern width so I had to made it less full. Which was handy because there was too much fabric to pleat neatly to the bodice so I gave up and gathered it instead.
Also there is something very odd going on with the sleeves. The shirt sleeve was more like wrist length and waaaay too much fullness in the sleeve cap.
Im Currently trying to wrestle the sleeves into position.mi may give up on ha and set them the modern way for my sanity.
Re the sinking form - would a jubilee hose clamp help keep it in place?
I admit I had to Google that but, maybe? thanks for the idea
I have a humongous bag of white leftover bits for mockups... and I am not ashamed to say I will piece those bad boys
Hi! I got some questions, and I hope you can help me out 😅
1. How would you suggest doing this for a beginner?
2. Would you suggest just buying pockets and butt pads from Etsy?
3. Can this be done with a corset/stay? (And be worn)
4. What tips would you give to a beginner who wants to do this project?
Thank you!
Hey, firstly the pockets and bum pads are the easiest thing to make in the project so if you’re a pure beginner these projects would be good to start with as practice. You definitely need stays to wear under this shape of garment otherwise it wouldn’t fit correctly. If you want to make the dress, use a pattern and reference some books like the American duchess guide. This gown isn’t a beginner project but you can work your way up to it by sewing accessories and undergarments.
This was extremely helpful, thank you so much!😄
Front closers hooks and eyes but put them alternatively a 2 hooks then an eye stops stress and gapping
If I'm understanding your comment correctly, I think that might be a genius solution!
I have found that doing this instead of a solid row of hooks one side and eyes the other helps a lot. An elderly relative who worked in a shirt waist factory in the 1920s told me about it
Why do I now want to buy a duvet just to color it in?
how much does making a dress like this approximately cost?
Just for the dress alone: I bought the duvet set on ebay for about $40. Linen for the lining was probably about $14. The boning is pretty expensive, probably about $7 for what I used but you have to order it in at least 10yard rolls +shipping. About $5 for thread and needles and such. Pattern was about $7. So between $60-$80 for actual materials used.
lol u r so cute
Duct tape dummy :)