@@sheranlanger247 Watch how she manipulates the pins. The pin is 1st pricked into the outer layer very near the edge going from top layer across toward the inner layer. It then is 'tipped over' and is pushed into the inner layer going back under the outer layer. It can also be slid into the outer layer of the stays. The pin is pressed in up to its head and the tip is buried so there is nothing to get caught on or scratched by. It works like a charm!
@@shroomyk yes, that's right! There are depictions of working women in the "cries of London" prints who are wearing just stays, shifts, and petticoats.
I love this. And this actually looks like the first complete outfit that doesn't totally overwhelm me. Like maybe I could actually make those. Very cool, thank you.
The clothes that people wear reflect the ideology of the people that wear them but also their rulers for this type of dress to come back there must a paradigm shift in society
This is actually the first time I've watched one of these videos and thought how incredibly uncomfortable the clothing looks--usually I think "oh, that's not so bad!" But two sets of lacings, one for the stays and one for the underbodice, and straight pins all up the front, all I can think is that I'd have no choice but to sit and stand very straight and carefully! It looks absolutely lovely, and I love watching these videos! Thank you so much for sharing!
It's not as bad as it seems, promise! The stays are just like any corset - they're snug. But the lacing on the gown isn't tight at all. It's a 1780s thing but not strictly necessary. The pinning doesn't stick through to the body. I've never been stuck with a pin while wearing 18th c dress...the stays protect from that. :)
@@thetillerwiller4696 An Englische or American poor woman would actually not have been that different. She would have also worn shift, stays, petticoat, gown, kerchief, cap, a bonnet or a hat and of course shoes and stockings. She would also have used lacing and pins or hooks and eyes to close her gown and stays. But instead of silk her dress would probably have been made out of wool, printed cotton or linen.
This brought up a couple of questions I otherwise wouldn't have had and answered some others! 1. When pinning the front of the gown closed over the underbodice (which is an ingenious idea!), would you be pinning the front of the gown TO the underbodice, or just the two sides of the gown to one another? 2. If a lady were wearing pockets with this ensemble, would it go over the underpetticoat and stays or under the petticoat? I couldn't help but think that if it goes over, it might affect the silhouette of the underpetticoat if you had a coin purse or small book in there. But that could be me over thinking it, haha.
Great questions! So the lacing in the 1780s took the pressure/pulling off the front edges of the gown so that the back would fit nice and snug. You pin the front edges of the gown to themselves and also into the stays. If it happens to catch the underbodice in there too, that's fine. I actually forgot my pockets in this video (lol!), but I usually put them on over the underpetticoat, but under the top petticoat.
The pockets go over the stays, which actually help support the weight of whatever you put in your pockets. It's very uncomfortable to have the tie dig in your waist because of the weight of it.
It was so nice to see how all of these pieces come together. I thought the big bum pillows would make the skirt stick out very oddly, but it didn't. It was the perfect size for the look. Also, I guess that women had much better posture then than we do now since the women had to use straight pins to keep the bodice closed. Bend over a little and 'ouch!' Thank you for doing this.
Good point! (lol) The posture was held back by the straps of the stays and the narrow backs of the gowns. The pins actually don't poke through to the body - the stay boning keeps that from happening, so long as you've got your pins in correctly. I've never been poked while wearing a gown with a pinned front.
These kinds of videos are one my favorite things to watch. Absolutely fascinating! I would love to see more. I liked watching the skirt being lifted into a polonaise shape - I knew it existed, but never seen it done on video :)
Beautiful! Do you have a pattern with Simplicity for the gown or is this from your book? I'm currently working on your stays patter 8579. The eyelets aren't very pretty but they are hand sewn!
Splendid! Love the colour. I would've thought that constant pinning would damage the fabric after even only. a few wears. Do you find evidence of this?
Hi Jenny - it's probably because pinning takes too long to depict in films, but it is indeed the most common way womens clothing was closed in the 18th century :-)
@@hollymeredith9998 I’m French, and I googled « fichu » to see what it was, since I thought it was the thing that some elder women wear on their heads, but thanks to you I’ll stop misusing that word ^^.
I think I now see something as beautiful as Prioattire's videos. Great job. I have a great deal of respect for your love of history! I've been a costumer for years and years, but I do Viking and old Celt. It's fun to see something so elaborate. The pattern of the fabric on the stays is amazing. It made me think of piecing. I also make Lolita and Edwardian and do a lot of piecing.
I know it's a decade earlier, but suddenly the banter between John and Abigail about "pins and saltpeter" in the musical 1776 takes on a whole new meaning.
The fabric is so beautiful, it makes me think of water from a stream for some reason, the pleating, how it flows, and not sure if it's the lighting but it has the illusion of a glisten one can only achieve if the item is wet. It's beautiful.
that's a lovely simile! You might be seeing the two different colors in the taffeta that make it look that way - "shot" taffeta, with the warp in a bright light yellow and the weft in a peachy color.
Watching this I got all nostalgic for that magical garage shoot you did with the snowy trees years ago. You've always made things look utterly stunning, and the new studio space is a wonderful backdrop for your dress-ups. This was a joy to watch. 💛
I love watching historical dressing videos. It takes me out of the modernity and fashions I don’t like and into the time I wish I was in. I hate trying to stuff myself into clothes that never fit right and suffering all day until I go to bed and do it all over again. Thank you for making this escape.
I appreciate that the corset is named stays, like the stays in the standing rigging of a ship, which support and put tension on the masts. I guess this was a standard term for support. Excellent video, great for research.
That was lovely! ( I liked your hair even more with the cap on because it hid those buckles 😂 ) You are a beautiful young lady no matter what century you dress for, ✌
It’s really interesting looking at the differences between rococo and Georgian fashion. Rococo was very pastel and Georgian was very beige and gold but sometimes both broke the mould ❤️
Wow. I could happily live in this style of gown. It’s so very pretty and elegant. I just don’t know if I could manage that hairstyle every day. A nice updo maybe, but probably not this particular hairstyle.
American Duchess but the beauty of this is that I can wear my hair however I want, it doesn’t all have to be 100% historically accurate. Which is what I love about history bounding in fashion. Everyone has their own unique ways of doing it.
Beautiful gown and I love the bow accents and inner lacing in the gown itself--I'm going to have to try that! I thought a Robe a la Anglaise had a back seam all in one, as in your book. I guess I'm just confused--is that term synonymous with Italian gown now?
Hi Carrie - good catch! "Robe a l'Anglaise" is the French term that was applied to both the English gown and the Italian gown, in France, in the 1770s and 80s. Both dresses are "Robes a l'Anglaise," and they only overlap each other by a few years. In England, the English gown was called a mantua, nightgown, or just a gown. When the Italian gown comes into fashion, with the waist seam and no back pleats, it is also called a night gown or just a gown, but in some publications it was called an Italian gown, presumably to distinguish it. It's very confusing!
How did the Buclé change? Are they there but filled with some ratted hair as mentioned in the Hair video? Periwinkle blue, or maybe lilac knots are so good with the yellow.
I just love how forgiving stays, and this fashion in general, was to fluctuating weight! To have that nowadays would be so nice! Not to mention the back support from stays too!
I love it, the gown looks so pretty especially with the back floofed out..you look stunning. Thank you so much for sharing... It was years before I found out that in the 18th Century the garments were in two halves and not an actual dress like we would wear today! The pins look a nightmare, but handy if your weight fluctuates during pregnancy etc or you're just having a day when you feel bloated & yuck, like we girls do from time to time. The gown is a good shape for a more positive body image I'd think as your 'wobbly bits' don't show, if you have any...it could hide a multitude of sins 😄 💖🌹
thanks! I promise the pins aren't as bad as everyone thinks ;-). And you're so right - it's nice to have the adjustability, and nothing's "wobbly" with stays on :-)
I love that you could gain or lose a goodly bit of weight and still be able to wear the same outfit you spent time and money sewing together. I'd probably switch to modern full length stockings or slip shorts instead but I like the look and the function!
Hi ! I’m quite young and interested in fashion history, and wanted to make a 1780 gown just like that. Would you have resources for me to read ? Also, what hairstyle is accurate for une robe à l’anglaise ? Thank you so much, ps the gown is really pretty !
Hi! Yes, I have a great booklist here: blog.americanduchess.com/p/bookshelf.html For step-by-step making, I recommend the AD Dressmaking Guide: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide And for all you ever wanted to know about 18th century hairstyles and how to do them, the AD Beauty book: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide-to-beauty
This outfit is so smart and elegant! The only thing that gives me doubt is the color of the bows which looks strange on the mustard-yellow background. Maybe someone could explain if it was a common practice to combine such colors.
Если посмотреть много старинных портретов и картинок из модных журналов, то становится ясно, что понятия о сочетании цветов заметно отличались от современных :)
I really enjoyed it. Thank you. I just wish that the end was a bit longer, we could see entire sillouete and you turned around 2-3 times so we can enjoy it longer :)
May I ask how far off the ground your petticoat hangs? I know itll be different for different proportions and preferences but I'm so indecisive and love where it sits in the video! 😅❤
The scarf was called a neck handkerchief or kerchief and could be worn in lieu of or in addition to the tucker, which is a bit of lace or ribbon gathered or pleated into the neckline of the gown bodice.
Perfect👏🏻 !! But I am thinking 🤔 about the tight of the top of the DRESS... on not to unsew/to rip apart, wow~😲!! It is amazing, how all the materials as: the textile,🧵 thread are so good. (it's not made in China, for sure)!🙏 Thank you💐 for share!
Just like nowadays when we see older people still stuck in the 70s or 80s, in Jane Austens time there were older folk still walking around in that kind of dress.
I also have a hard time getting jeans on, lol - I actually find the historic clothing more comfortable than modern clothing sometimes. It's restrictive through the abdomen, but distributes the weight and tightness of the clothing so that it doesn't cut in at the waist, which modern elastic waistlines or tight jeans tend to do.
Hi Susan - By the 1780s panniers are out of fashion, so yes the split bum has replaced them and moved the volume more towards the back. Tying up the skirt in French was called "retroussee," in English just "tying up," and doesn't change the name of the garment. A pet en 'lair is a sack-back short gown or jacket, so you couldn't tie the skirts up because they're too short. But you *can* tie the skirts of a full-length sacque up. :-) I hope that helps!
Hi! Quick question! What would be an everyday hairstyle for a high class American lady during this time? From what I can see, ladies wore a cap with flowing curls (from paintings). I love Elizabeth Hamilton’s hair, but wouldn’t it be a pain to do that everyday? Did she and other ladies only do high hair for special occasions? Thank you!
Great question! There's a lot to be said for hair pieces, especially 1780s ones, which made doing these hairstyles really easy. Everyday hair wasn't always coiffed, though - you could also just pull it back over a small cushion at the front and plop a cap on that covers most of the head. Loads more information is in our hairdressing book here - www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide-to-beauty
If there was concern for "stress" on the dress, "stress" on the gown, or "stress" on the back of the fabric it would seem to me that poking and 'stabbing' the fabric daily would (over time) tear the fabric. Love the 2-tone shoes. Reminds me of a pair of oxfords I had to wear in parochial school. Beautiful gown, though. Not usually a fan of yellow / mustard yellow / gold for a dress color. However, this shade I DO like. Very nicely made dress.
There are many, many extant gowns that have evidence of pin holes down the front edges. The pins don't usually tear the fabric but they do scar it. One way to take the pressure or stress off the front edges of the gown is with the lacing underbodice like I show in the video - it pulls the back tight from the side seams.
I really don’t have time to hand make all this stuff :( I love sewing but I’ve taken up embroidery because it’s so easy to pick up and put down. Anywhere I could get a full ensemble like yours already made?
hi! The robe a l'anglaise has a waist seam and closes in the front. The robe a la polonaise has no waist seam and the skirt is usually box pleated at the back, like a frock coat. The front hangs open at the sides and it's worn over either a false waistcoat or a separate one.
Hi! Thank you so much for your help with my last hair question, I hope to purchase your book on hair soon😊 I do not know if it covers this, so I hoped you could help me with it. What hairstyles would a teen girl wear during this time? (1770-1780) From what I’ve heard, women’s hair was a lot different from theirs, but girls were expected to start wearing their hair up at around 14. If that’s incorrect please let me know, as well as if the girls’ hair was different from class. Thank you!
Adolescent hair isn't my specialty, but from what little I've read on it, you are right, hair for adolescent girls was worn down and not dressed/styled the same way as an adult's hair. My best recommendation is to look at portraiture - there are a lot of family portraits that depict girls with their parents.
Hi! Here I am again😅. I’m sorry for the inconvenience, but I have another question that I was hoping you could help me out with. I am going to a seamstress to have a gown made. I am striving for a 1770-1790 High Class American look. A gown that caught my eye was the “round gown.” The one that I saw was dark green (one of the first results on Google). I was wondering if you could perhaps give me some info on the gown. Was it popular in the high class during the 1770s-1780s (or 1790)? Was it popular with a certain age range? Thank you once again for all your help! (P.S. I saw a painting with a gown that looked identical to your Robe a la Polonaise! You did an amazing job on your gowns!)
No worries! Yes, a round gown is a good choice for a high class lady in the 1770s-1780s. The "class" will be in the materials - a beautiful silk or polychrome printed cotton are top choices. Also be sure to accessorize it fashionably with hats, delicate neck and cuff ruffles, and jewelry.
Thank you so much! This really, really helps me out 😄. One last question!😅 Is it possible to make a stay that can grow with me (height, etc)? Thank you so, so much!
This is so cool! I do have a question though. I know that you said the last layer could be adjusted for changing sizes. Would this mean you could use your same clothes as “maternity wear?” If so, how would you make it as such? Thank you!
beautiful! I have a question, im currently working on the simplicity 8161 pattern, and have just completed the undergarments of the 8162 pattern. Im having a lot of trouble figuring out what style of dress the 8161 is, and what decade it belongs to. to me it looks like robe a l'Anglaise, but I haven't seen other examples of front lacing bodices in the a l'anglaise style. I'm a total beginner when it comes to 18th century, and I've found it tends to be all squished into a single category, unlike the 19th century which I've found has more available information per the decades!
hi! There are several examples of front-lacing gowns from the 1780s. Front-lacing jackets are also quite common throughout the century. More often, gowns were pinned over the stomacher, but trying to explain pinning in a Simplicity pattern didn't fly with the folks at Simplicity, so we went with the lacing instead.
I'm curious if a brocade robe could be paired with a taffeta petticoat. I know petticoats were often quilted. But would it be period accurate to pair a ruffled taffeta petticoat with a floral quarter-back gown.
Awesome video is that is a gorgeous dress. After my current daily wear project is complete that is definitely next on the list! The voile detail on the sleeves is amazing, did you pull that detail from a particular source? The voile and blue details are the perfect level of decoration:)
Thank you! I looked at lots of 1780s fashion plates for the trimming ideas and noticed that contrasting white ruffles and puffy sleeve trim was popular.
You put the pin in perpendicular to the edge of the bodice, catching all layers and weaving it in and out a bit, and then you bury the sharp edge into the layers of your stays! (We're also working on a short video showing how to do this for the future!) :)
How did people in Williamsburg, VA or in the South in general keep from fainting from the heat. Here in Atlanta, GA it's 106 F in June. Was the climate that different then?
@@ailanolsen yes, printed cottons in the colonies. Cotton isn't nearly as cool, temperature-wise as linen, though. Tropical-weight wool was also worn, which is surprisingly cool in summer.
Hi! Thank you for answering my previous question 😊. I have considered making this outfit, and I was wondering if you have any suggested patterns/directions. Also, do you know how I could do the handkerchief like how they did in Elizabeth Schuyler Hamilton’s 1780s portrait (I tried to search on Google, but did not find anything). Thank you!
no prob! I recommend JP Ryan patterns for a gown like this. www.jpryan.com/details/anglaise.html The kerchief in the portrait looks to be very large. It's a very big triangle with the long edge on the bias, and made in a very fine material like organza, paired with some lace and a satin edge. Best of luck on the project!
Perhaps a bit of a silly question, but when you mentioned pinning things down using straight pins, I got to wondering: do you know if pins of the time had those nifty beaded heads like a lot of modern ones do? If so, did they come in different colors? I can't imagine the ladies of the 18th century NOT color coordinating their pins to the rest of their outfit, regardless of how unnoticeable they were.
Hi! I am so sorry for asking so many questions, but I hoped you could help me out with this. I’m going to a seamstress who can make this gown, and I was wondering if there was a way I could request for them to make it fit, but also be something that I could grow into. (Height, etc.) thank you so much!
no worries, ask away! Yes, luckily 18th century seamstresses dealt with the same requests! My advice: For height - put a deep hem in the petticoat and gown skirt so it can be let down as needed. For changes in bust and waist - give the center front edges a pretty big overlap and use the pinning method to close the gown so it can be adjusted easily without re-sewing anything. General good practice - leave plenty of seam allowance in the side seams and center back seam in case the bodice needs to be let out later. I recommend using 1 inch seam allowances in these areas. Also, save all your extra fabric in case piecing is needed in the future.
Is this the British style robe a l'anglaise? (sorry no accent marks available) It looks lovely. I like this better than the "sack-back gown" personal option.
1780's Maid " How many pins shall I use to dress you Madam?" "Yes"
haha, as many as it takes to keep this thing from popping open all the sudden!
Didn't the pins destroy the material after time?
@@tinarose5261 Not to mention get caught on or scratch things 🤷🏾♀️
@@sheranlanger247 Watch how she manipulates the pins. The pin is 1st pricked into the outer layer very near the edge going from top layer across toward the inner layer. It then is 'tipped over' and is pushed into the inner layer going back under the outer layer. It can also be slid into the outer layer of the stays. The pin is pressed in up to its head and the tip is buried so there is nothing to get caught on or scratched by. It works like a charm!
@@tinarose5261 I think they could have just mended it
Not going to lie, the stays and under-petticoat actually make for a pretty cute outfit on their own.
Kindof shepherdess-y!
I think some women in working class could actually get away with that, if I remember correctly. It is very cute.
@@shroomyk yes, that's right! There are depictions of working women in the "cries of London" prints who are wearing just stays, shifts, and petticoats.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I was thinking the same thing.
Kirsten Paff those stays are probably more comfortable than most bras I wear.
I will never get tired of seeing this gorgeous yellow gown! It's so beautiful!
thank you!
So that’s how the tapes in the skirt work. 😲 I’ve heard people mention them, but never seen how they’re actually done. Thanks so much!
yup! There are a couple ways to do them and they can be on the interior OR the exterior for different looks.
Same!
I love this. And this actually looks like the first complete outfit that doesn't totally overwhelm me. Like maybe I could actually make those. Very cool, thank you.
You totally can! It's not nearly as complicated as it looks. ;-)
You look beautiful . How I wish this fashion would come back . Forgot to add the music was wonderful
Thank you! Well, in these crazy times anything goes - let's bring it back!
The clothes that people wear reflect the ideology of the people that wear them but also their rulers for this type of dress to come back there must a paradigm shift in society
Not true at all. نعيمة السنهاجي
@@نعيمةالسنهاجي ?hmm really
@@LaDivinaLover actually yes clothing is full of symbolism
I can’t wait until I move out of my parents’ house so that I can start to live my dream of wearing clothes like this and making them myself! 😍
❤🎉
Sewing goals. That's one of my favorite styles in all of fashion history.
thanks!
Wow, this gave me a much better understanding for its construction-- thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes really helpful
Me too!
This is actually the first time I've watched one of these videos and thought how incredibly uncomfortable the clothing looks--usually I think "oh, that's not so bad!" But two sets of lacings, one for the stays and one for the underbodice, and straight pins all up the front, all I can think is that I'd have no choice but to sit and stand very straight and carefully!
It looks absolutely lovely, and I love watching these videos! Thank you so much for sharing!
It's not as bad as it seems, promise! The stays are just like any corset - they're snug. But the lacing on the gown isn't tight at all. It's a 1780s thing but not strictly necessary. The pinning doesn't stick through to the body. I've never been stuck with a pin while wearing 18th c dress...the stays protect from that. :)
Rebecca tho was for rich ladies, a poor woman would have not wore this
@@thetillerwiller4696 An Englische or American poor woman would actually not have been that different. She would have also worn shift, stays, petticoat, gown, kerchief, cap, a bonnet or a hat and of course shoes and stockings. She would also have used lacing and pins or hooks and eyes to close her gown and stays. But instead of silk her dress would probably have been made out of wool, printed cotton or linen.
This brought up a couple of questions I otherwise wouldn't have had and answered some others!
1. When pinning the front of the gown closed over the underbodice (which is an ingenious idea!), would you be pinning the front of the gown TO the underbodice, or just the two sides of the gown to one another?
2. If a lady were wearing pockets with this ensemble, would it go over the underpetticoat and stays or under the petticoat? I couldn't help but think that if it goes over, it might affect the silhouette of the underpetticoat if you had a coin purse or small book in there. But that could be me over thinking it, haha.
Great questions! So the lacing in the 1780s took the pressure/pulling off the front edges of the gown so that the back would fit nice and snug. You pin the front edges of the gown to themselves and also into the stays. If it happens to catch the underbodice in there too, that's fine.
I actually forgot my pockets in this video (lol!), but I usually put them on over the underpetticoat, but under the top petticoat.
American Duchess I had similar questions about the pockets. If they go over the under petticoat, do you put them on before or after the false rump?
The pockets go over the stays, which actually help support the weight of whatever you put in your pockets. It's very uncomfortable to have the tie dig in your waist because of the weight of it.
It was so nice to see how all of these pieces come together. I thought the big bum pillows would make the skirt stick out very oddly, but it didn't. It was the perfect size for the look. Also, I guess that women had much better posture then than we do now since the women had to use straight pins to keep the bodice closed. Bend over a little and 'ouch!' Thank you for doing this.
Good point! (lol) The posture was held back by the straps of the stays and the narrow backs of the gowns. The pins actually don't poke through to the body - the stay boning keeps that from happening, so long as you've got your pins in correctly. I've never been poked while wearing a gown with a pinned front.
These kinds of videos are one my favorite things to watch. Absolutely fascinating! I would love to see more. I liked watching the skirt being lifted into a polonaise shape - I knew it existed, but never seen it done on video :)
More to come! 1770s is next :-)
Beautiful! Do you have a pattern with Simplicity for the gown or is this from your book? I'm currently working on your stays patter 8579. The eyelets aren't very pretty but they are hand sewn!
This one is from the book - The Italian Gown - although I did the front a little differently.
Thank you. I will check out the book!
I just finished all my underpinnings today! Cant wait to start on my gown!!
You got this!
Go for it girl!!!👊👍
Hey, how's the gown coming along?
Splendid! Love the colour. I would've thought that constant pinning would damage the fabric after even only. a few wears. Do you find evidence of this?
Yes, actually! There are pin holes and evidence of pinning on many, many, many extant gowns.
Yes Girl Puff that bum up🙈😂💖
Floof!
Very interesting that you put the pins in, something I’ve never seen in films or dramas.
Hi Jenny - it's probably because pinning takes too long to depict in films, but it is indeed the most common way womens clothing was closed in the 18th century :-)
"Neck handkerchief"
...that is confusing on so many levels.
yes, quite, lol! We usually just call them "kerchief," also a period accurate term and quite less of a mouthful.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I've heard of people calling them "neckerchiefs," but I don't know if that's historically accurate or not.
I watched another fashion channel that called it a fichu...French term for it I guess
@@hollymeredith9998 I’m French, and I googled « fichu » to see what it was, since I thought it was the thing that some elder women wear on their heads, but thanks to you I’ll stop misusing that word ^^.
This is a beautifully made video. What a treat. I love the dressing, the music...descriptions. Everything.
Thank you so much!
I think I now see something as beautiful as Prioattire's videos. Great job. I have a great deal of respect for your love of history! I've been a costumer for years and years, but I do Viking and old Celt. It's fun to see something so elaborate. The pattern of the fabric on the stays is amazing. It made me think of piecing. I also make Lolita and Edwardian and do a lot of piecing.
thank you!
I love the little bum jingle dance at the end when you're finished with tying up the skirt . xxx
I do it every time , lol
I'm always just so delighted with the idea of an 18th century lady doing the little adjustment hops.
petticoat bounce!
I know it's a decade earlier, but suddenly the banter between John and Abigail about "pins and saltpeter" in the musical 1776 takes on a whole new meaning.
yes!
The laced under-bodice of the robe is a really good idea.
yes, it makes a big difference!
This has so much detail that tends to get ignored in normal tutorials! Thanks!
How do you keep the straight pins from pricking you during the day?
Absolutely lovely! Love the blue accents!
Thanks so much! 😊
Lovely video! Makes me even more interested in trying 1780s!
you should!
The fabric is so beautiful, it makes me think of water from a stream for some reason, the pleating, how it flows, and not sure if it's the lighting but it has the illusion of a glisten one can only achieve if the item is wet. It's beautiful.
that's a lovely simile! You might be seeing the two different colors in the taffeta that make it look that way - "shot" taffeta, with the warp in a bright light yellow and the weft in a peachy color.
Watching this I got all nostalgic for that magical garage shoot you did with the snowy trees years ago. You've always made things look utterly stunning, and the new studio space is a wonderful backdrop for your dress-ups. This was a joy to watch. 💛
Thank you so much!
I love watching historical dressing videos. It takes me out of the modernity and fashions I don’t like and into the time I wish I was in. I hate trying to stuff myself into clothes that never fit right and suffering all day until I go to bed and do it all over again. Thank you for making this escape.
I feel the same way about clothes not fitting right
OMG! She got it all on, and suddenly transformed. Amazing.
Certainly my favorite part - all of it coming together ;-)
Beautiful outfit. Love this time period!
Thank you! 😊
Retrousée really is such a good look for 18th century gowns
It's my particular favorite!
I appreciate that the corset is named stays, like the stays in the standing rigging of a ship, which support and put tension on the masts. I guess this was a standard term for support. Excellent video, great for research.
that's right! thank you
That was lovely! ( I liked your hair even more with the cap on because it hid those buckles 😂 ) You are a beautiful young lady no matter what century you dress for, ✌
Thank you so much!!
You look amazing! I was wondering about pockets as well
Thanks! Forgot them, haha, but I remember for the next video coming soon :-)
It’s really interesting looking at the differences between rococo and Georgian fashion. Rococo was very pastel and Georgian was very beige and gold but sometimes both broke the mould ❤️
I’m so happy to find another historical dressing video!!
the more the merrier :-)
stunning!
I’m getting Jane from Tarzan vibes and I love it
I love that movie!
Was just about to comment that! Love it! 💚
So much thought put into the construction of this 💖🐸
thanks!
Wow. I could happily live in this style of gown. It’s so very pretty and elegant. I just don’t know if I could manage that hairstyle every day. A nice updo maybe, but probably not this particular hairstyle.
Ah, the secret is that 90% of my hair in this video is extensions or hair pieces already styled ;-)
American Duchess but the beauty of this is that I can wear my hair however I want, it doesn’t all have to be 100% historically accurate. Which is what I love about history bounding in fashion. Everyone has their own unique ways of doing it.
Beautiful gown and I love the bow accents and inner lacing in the gown itself--I'm going to have to try that! I thought a Robe a la Anglaise had a back seam all in one, as in your book. I guess I'm just confused--is that term synonymous with Italian gown now?
Hi Carrie - good catch! "Robe a l'Anglaise" is the French term that was applied to both the English gown and the Italian gown, in France, in the 1770s and 80s. Both dresses are "Robes a l'Anglaise," and they only overlap each other by a few years. In England, the English gown was called a mantua, nightgown, or just a gown. When the Italian gown comes into fashion, with the waist seam and no back pleats, it is also called a night gown or just a gown, but in some publications it was called an Italian gown, presumably to distinguish it. It's very confusing!
How did the Buclé change? Are they there but filled with some ratted hair as mentioned in the Hair video? Periwinkle blue, or maybe lilac knots are so good with the yellow.
I have some low-key buckles in this hairstyle. They're still there, but not as many
The first ones were kind of distracting, heh
I just love how forgiving stays, and this fashion in general, was to fluctuating weight! To have that nowadays would be so nice! Not to mention the back support from stays too!
absolutely spot on!
I’m liking these videos, they remind me of CrowseyeProductions (I think that’s the channel).
thank you, that is a huge compliment! I can only aspire to make such beautiful films some day
American Duchess calling it into existence! You ladies will definitely do it! 🥰🙌🏽 Keep up they awesome work.
I love it, the gown looks so pretty especially with the back floofed out..you look stunning. Thank you so much for sharing...
It was years before I found out that in the 18th Century the garments were in two halves and not an actual dress like we would wear today!
The pins look a nightmare, but handy if your weight fluctuates during pregnancy etc or you're just having a day when you feel bloated & yuck, like we girls do from time to time.
The gown is a good shape for a more positive body image I'd think as your 'wobbly bits' don't show, if you have any...it could hide a multitude of sins 😄 💖🌹
thanks! I promise the pins aren't as bad as everyone thinks ;-). And you're so right - it's nice to have the adjustability, and nothing's "wobbly" with stays on :-)
please do more of these
more on the way!
I love that you could gain or lose a goodly bit of weight and still be able to wear the same outfit you spent time and money sewing together. I'd probably switch to modern full length stockings or slip shorts instead but I like the look and the function!
it is pretty handy indeed!
Hi ! I’m quite young and interested in fashion history, and wanted to make a 1780 gown just like that. Would you have resources for me to read ? Also, what hairstyle is accurate for une robe à l’anglaise ? Thank you so much, ps the gown is really pretty !
Hi! Yes, I have a great booklist here: blog.americanduchess.com/p/bookshelf.html
For step-by-step making, I recommend the AD Dressmaking Guide: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide
And for all you ever wanted to know about 18th century hairstyles and how to do them, the AD Beauty book: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide-to-beauty
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you so much !
Very pretty, would it be a zone front because of the two lines in the front of the gown.
Yes, it's a zone front, although the two lines of stitching there is actually piecing - it should be just one line of stitching, lol
I LOVE the way tied up skirts look!! I’m a little confused about how it all works though
It's one of my favorite ways to wear the skirts!
This outfit is so smart and elegant!
The only thing that gives me doubt is the color of the bows which looks strange on the mustard-yellow background. Maybe someone could explain if it was a common practice to combine such colors.
Если посмотреть много старинных портретов и картинок из модных журналов, то становится ясно, что понятия о сочетании цветов заметно отличались от современных :)
yes, there are several portraits that show blue bows contrasting with yellow gowns. It was a common choice.
So cute and pretty! I adore 18th century dress :)
Thank you!! 😊
The color of the fabric -- so sumptuous! I'm also dying to know the artist of the background music. Also sumptuous!
thanks! The music pieces are all from Epidemic Sound
Wow it is taking so long time to take on but so amazing style ❤❤❤
Now I want one. Darn it, another thing to add to the sewing list.
the sewing list is ever-growing!
I really enjoyed it. Thank you. I just wish that the end was a bit longer, we could see entire sillouete and you turned around 2-3 times so we can enjoy it longer :)
Next time!
@@AmericanDuchess1 Sounds great! Thank you!
These are the women who make any beautiful dress more beautiful after wearing it with their charm.
May I ask how far off the ground your petticoat hangs? I know itll be different for different proportions and preferences but I'm so indecisive and love where it sits in the video! 😅❤
I like my walking length skirts between ankle bone and bottom of calf muscle.
@@AmericanDuchess1 just enough to show off those pretty little shoes!
Wonderful 👏 👏. I love the colors.
thank you
The scarf... was known as a Tucker, wasn't it? You demonstrated where the term comes from.
Lovely!
The scarf was called a neck handkerchief or kerchief and could be worn in lieu of or in addition to the tucker, which is a bit of lace or ribbon gathered or pleated into the neckline of the gown bodice.
Is the under petticoat always under the stays and bum pad? It just seemed natural for me to put the petticoat over those
Great questions! Underpetticoats are depicted worn under the stays in a lot of primary source images, but it's not an "always" thing.
Perfect👏🏻 !!
But I am thinking 🤔 about the tight of the top of the DRESS...
on not to unsew/to rip apart, wow~😲!!
It is amazing, how all the materials as: the textile,🧵 thread are so good.
(it's not made in China, for sure)!🙏
Thank you💐 for share!
thanks!
Just beautiful. You look just perfect....well done
Thank you so much!
I know it's not the right time period but it makes me want to go watch all my Jane Austen movies
This gown would just about make it into Northranger Abbey or Sense and Sensibility, since they probably take place around 1794.
It's always a good time to watch all the Jane Austen movies. :-)
Just like nowadays when we see older people still stuck in the 70s or 80s, in Jane Austens time there were older folk still walking around in that kind of dress.
Beautiful and interesting but I have a hard enough time getting jeans on I can't imagine
I also have a hard time getting jeans on, lol - I actually find the historic clothing more comfortable than modern clothing sometimes. It's restrictive through the abdomen, but distributes the weight and tightness of the clothing so that it doesn't cut in at the waist, which modern elastic waistlines or tight jeans tend to do.
The colors are very Jane from Disney’s Tarzan and that is amazing.
I do love love love that film
So the split bum roll takes the place of panniers.? And does the tying up the skirt make it a pet-en-l'air? Thanks for your video.
Hi Susan - By the 1780s panniers are out of fashion, so yes the split bum has replaced them and moved the volume more towards the back. Tying up the skirt in French was called "retroussee," in English just "tying up," and doesn't change the name of the garment. A pet en 'lair is a sack-back short gown or jacket, so you couldn't tie the skirts up because they're too short. But you *can* tie the skirts of a full-length sacque up. :-) I hope that helps!
@@AmericanDuchess1 thanks for the info
Hi! Quick question! What would be an everyday hairstyle for a high class American lady during this time? From what I can see, ladies wore a cap with flowing curls (from paintings). I love Elizabeth Hamilton’s hair, but wouldn’t it be a pain to do that everyday? Did she and other ladies only do high hair for special occasions? Thank you!
What would the hair also be for a girl/teen in this class?
Great question! There's a lot to be said for hair pieces, especially 1780s ones, which made doing these hairstyles really easy. Everyday hair wasn't always coiffed, though - you could also just pull it back over a small cushion at the front and plop a cap on that covers most of the head.
Loads more information is in our hairdressing book here - www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide-to-beauty
Thank you! This helps so much😊
If there was concern for "stress" on the dress, "stress" on the gown, or "stress" on the back of the fabric it would seem to me that poking and 'stabbing' the fabric daily would (over time) tear the fabric. Love the 2-tone shoes. Reminds me of a pair of oxfords I had to wear in parochial school.
Beautiful gown, though. Not usually a fan of yellow / mustard yellow / gold for a dress color. However, this shade I DO like. Very nicely made dress.
There are many, many extant gowns that have evidence of pin holes down the front edges. The pins don't usually tear the fabric but they do scar it. One way to take the pressure or stress off the front edges of the gown is with the lacing underbodice like I show in the video - it pulls the back tight from the side seams.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Ah....interesting. I never knew this.
Wow!! Thats a beautiful dress!! Could u plz also explain in short what purpose each piece of cloth has? For eg:- why is the neck hankerchief worn?
Sure! The neck handkerchief was worn primarily for sun protection. It was a daytime thing only, not worn in the evening.
I’ve always wanted to dress like this if just for a day 😍
you should! it feels amazing.
I really don’t have time to hand make all this stuff :( I love sewing but I’ve taken up embroidery because it’s so easy to pick up and put down. Anywhere I could get a full ensemble like yours already made?
What are actually the main differences between the Robe a l'Anglaise and Robe a la Polonaise? They look quite similar.
hi! The robe a l'anglaise has a waist seam and closes in the front. The robe a la polonaise has no waist seam and the skirt is usually box pleated at the back, like a frock coat. The front hangs open at the sides and it's worn over either a false waistcoat or a separate one.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you very much!
😉Cute hair. And great quality as always!👍
Thank you!! 😊
Hi! Thank you so much for your help with my last hair question, I hope to purchase your book on hair soon😊 I do not know if it covers this, so I hoped you could help me with it. What hairstyles would a teen girl wear during this time? (1770-1780) From what I’ve heard, women’s hair was a lot different from theirs, but girls were expected to start wearing their hair up at around 14. If that’s incorrect please let me know, as well as if the girls’ hair was different from class. Thank you!
Adolescent hair isn't my specialty, but from what little I've read on it, you are right, hair for adolescent girls was worn down and not dressed/styled the same way as an adult's hair. My best recommendation is to look at portraiture - there are a lot of family portraits that depict girls with their parents.
Thank you!
Hi! Here I am again😅. I’m sorry for the inconvenience, but I have another question that I was hoping you could help me out with.
I am going to a seamstress to have a gown made. I am striving for a 1770-1790 High Class American look. A gown that caught my eye was the “round gown.” The one that I saw was dark green (one of the first results on Google). I was wondering if you could perhaps give me some info on the gown. Was it popular in the high class during the 1770s-1780s (or 1790)? Was it popular with a certain age range?
Thank you once again for all your help!
(P.S. I saw a painting with a gown that looked identical to your Robe a la Polonaise! You did an amazing job on your gowns!)
No worries! Yes, a round gown is a good choice for a high class lady in the 1770s-1780s. The "class" will be in the materials - a beautiful silk or polychrome printed cotton are top choices. Also be sure to accessorize it fashionably with hats, delicate neck and cuff ruffles, and jewelry.
Thank you so much! This really, really helps me out 😄.
One last question!😅 Is it possible to make a stay that can grow with me (height, etc)? Thank you so, so much!
This is so cool! I do have a question though. I know that you said the last layer could be adjusted for changing sizes. Would this mean you could use your same clothes as “maternity wear?” If so, how would you make it as such? Thank you!
Yes, indeed! Sometimes the gowns were made to accommodate, but also you could add in a stomacher or piece in an extra bit of fabric for pregnancy.
beautiful! I have a question, im currently working on the simplicity 8161 pattern, and have just completed the undergarments of the 8162 pattern. Im having a lot of trouble figuring out what style of dress the 8161 is, and what decade it belongs to. to me it looks like robe a l'Anglaise, but I haven't seen other examples of front lacing bodices in the a l'anglaise style. I'm a total beginner when it comes to 18th century, and I've found it tends to be all squished into a single category, unlike the 19th century which I've found has more available information per the decades!
hi! There are several examples of front-lacing gowns from the 1780s. Front-lacing jackets are also quite common throughout the century. More often, gowns were pinned over the stomacher, but trying to explain pinning in a Simplicity pattern didn't fly with the folks at Simplicity, so we went with the lacing instead.
@@AmericanDuchess1 thanks so much, that makes much more sense!
Can I get the list of songs in this video?! They are beautiful!
all of the music is from Epidemic Sound
I'm curious if a brocade robe could be paired with a taffeta petticoat. I know petticoats were often quilted. But would it be period accurate to pair a ruffled taffeta petticoat with a floral quarter-back gown.
Yes indeed, that would be perfect. :-)
I love your cap is there somewhere I could get that pattern?
Yes, it's the 1780s caps from The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: www.american-duchess.com/book/american-duchess-guide
Beautiful dress🥰 I did have a question, what was the purpose for the shoulder straps attached to the stays?
Good question! It's to hold the shoulders back for good, upright posture.
Awesome video is that is a gorgeous dress. After my current daily wear project is complete that is definitely next on the list! The voile detail on the sleeves is amazing, did you pull that detail from a particular source? The voile and blue details are the perfect level of decoration:)
Thank you! I looked at lots of 1780s fashion plates for the trimming ideas and noticed that contrasting white ruffles and puffy sleeve trim was popular.
Can you do a how to pin your bodice safely video? Everyone just says to pin the front together but I cant figure out how.
You put the pin in perpendicular to the edge of the bodice, catching all layers and weaving it in and out a bit, and then you bury the sharp edge into the layers of your stays! (We're also working on a short video showing how to do this for the future!) :)
How did people in Williamsburg, VA or in the South in general keep from fainting from the heat. Here in Atlanta, GA it's 106 F in June. Was the climate that different then?
They wore linen, linen, and more linen
@@AmericanDuchess1 , cotton as well?
@@ailanolsen yes, printed cottons in the colonies. Cotton isn't nearly as cool, temperature-wise as linen, though. Tropical-weight wool was also worn, which is surprisingly cool in summer.
@@AmericanDuchess1 can you still buy a tropical weather wool or cotton? I am desperately looking for something cool for this summer...
@@maggiekedves yes, it's usually listed as "tropical weight" as well
Very relaxing to watch - Thank You!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Does anyone know who the music is by? It's lovely.
all of the music comes from Epidemic Sound
Does anyone know what the music is on this video? I love it!
the music pieces are from Epidemic Sound
Impressive. I've only seen videos where women were dressed by others. I wondered how women could dress themselves.
Not too hard so long as things close in the front :-)
Hi! Thank you for answering my previous question 😊. I have considered making this outfit, and I was wondering if you have any suggested patterns/directions. Also, do you know how I could do the handkerchief like how they did in Elizabeth Schuyler Hamilton’s 1780s portrait (I tried to search on Google, but did not find anything). Thank you!
no prob! I recommend JP Ryan patterns for a gown like this. www.jpryan.com/details/anglaise.html
The kerchief in the portrait looks to be very large. It's a very big triangle with the long edge on the bias, and made in a very fine material like organza, paired with some lace and a satin edge.
Best of luck on the project!
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you so much!
Ooh I absolutely adore your stays! if you don't mind me asking, where did you get the pink flower fabric for them?
thanks! it's upholstery fabric from a local off-seller shop.
Perhaps a bit of a silly question, but when you mentioned pinning things down using straight pins, I got to wondering: do you know if pins of the time had those nifty beaded heads like a lot of modern ones do? If so, did they come in different colors? I can't imagine the ladies of the 18th century NOT color coordinating their pins to the rest of their outfit, regardless of how unnoticeable they were.
Nifty question! Pins did not have pretty pearly heads in the 18th century, just the steel straight head or a little curly head.
Hi! I am so sorry for asking so many questions, but I hoped you could help me out with this.
I’m going to a seamstress who can make this gown, and I was wondering if there was a way I could request for them to make it fit, but also be something that I could grow into. (Height, etc.) thank you so much!
no worries, ask away! Yes, luckily 18th century seamstresses dealt with the same requests! My advice:
For height - put a deep hem in the petticoat and gown skirt so it can be let down as needed.
For changes in bust and waist - give the center front edges a pretty big overlap and use the pinning method to close the gown so it can be adjusted easily without re-sewing anything.
General good practice - leave plenty of seam allowance in the side seams and center back seam in case the bodice needs to be let out later. I recommend using 1 inch seam allowances in these areas. Also, save all your extra fabric in case piecing is needed in the future.
Thank you so much! This really helps!😊
I need to learn to spiral lace my corsets
Hello! I wonder, how long you can wear a gown, if you have to pin it close every single day?
all day and all night. I seldom lose pins.
The part where you tie to make the puff buns. Where do you sew in the loops? I made my dress as well. Does the string come from the top piece?
The strings are sewn to the waist and then there are loops sewn about halway down the skirt, right on the skirt seams.
Is this the British style robe a l'anglaise? (sorry no accent marks available) It looks lovely. I like this better than the "sack-back gown" personal option.
It is a Robe a l'Anglaise, yes. It was also called an Italian Gown or a Nightgown
Had alot more patience in those days!!,, would the pins have been visible?
you can see the little heads of them, but they're pretty small