Holiday Spy Camera Mamiya 16 | Intro
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- Опубликовано: 20 апр 2024
- I am going on holiday this year and have decided to try out a new (to me) camera, a 16mm spy camera. Follow my adventures on how bad and idea this really is!
Twitch channel: / projectsoffolly
I like it! Sometimes you buy something, and you just enjoy the journey of learning how it works. And, those tactile switches, got to love them
I wanted to get one of these to go along with my viscawide 16. I have a lot of ektachrome 100 and Fuji micro film HR-21. I was told the lens was very sharp. Using something like Ektachrome or similar high resolve film or even the Kodak vision film will give you some nice results. Not only good resolution but nice grain. As far as the pyrocat and Fuji micro film goes I wouldn’t recommend. I had poor results. 510 pyro on the other hand seem ok. Pyrocat needed 45min to an hour to develop and I am not that patient.
I would also say take a look at the Stecky16 if you have an interest in these submin cameras. I am currently working on part 3 of this series where I go though a few of the development options. In part 2 (Problem 1 Film) I demonstrate what film I went with, mostly though the path of least resistance.
I had to resin 3D print my viscawide 16 cartridges. FDM printers don’t work well for something this small. The cost of a small resin 3d printer is around $160 and the resin is around $20 per 1000g. You will have to paint or coat the inside with felt. It’s so thin they are not light proof without it.
SLA is a common suggestion around here and very much worth considering. I am also wondering if some kind of airbrush flocking for the innards might be an option. All good things to try. But yes i can agree with the idea of Resin prints and post processing to make it light tight.
Cine film also has sprocket holes which are in frame. Vision 3 certainly meets your dynamic range requirements, it's huge but you might not want the entire can. Why not just buy 110 cartridges and strip the film out of them in a dark bag and load that? There's also the questionably named fakmatic which slits down film into 16mm strips so you can use anything that's commonly available if you don't mind some wastage.
Is the metal cannister from a slightly weird website in the UK that also has loads of minox stuff by any chance? I should clean up my 16 and get it working, will give your twitch stream a look.
Vision 3 is a good option but i was trying to stick to B&W as i prefer working with that chemistry. There are lots of options and i think ill go though them a little more in the next part and what im thinking with each of the options. The metal cart was a bit of a let down but I wont spoil exactly as to why.
The sprocket holes will definitely not show in the negatives. That only happens in 110 cartridges loaded with 16mm cine film.
If you want to 3d print more film cassette use resin over FDM. Much better results form the cheaper resin printers than what you will get with a FDM.
If you check out the next video in the series you will see that I begged a friend to print me off some carts and he had a FDM printer so we gave that a go. I am currently considering doing a bit of a re-design of the carts and possibly getting it printed in different methods including SLA and SLS. I am very interested in how the SLA prints handle.
@@projectsoffolly I had to make some resin parts for my Viscawide 16. It uses 16mm film just like this camera. I’ll give your next video a view. Thanks for the response.